National Chicken Fried Steak Day is celebrated on October 26, a holiday which started in Texas, codified by a resolution in 2011. The Resolution states, in part: "WHEREAS, This signature dish occupies a special place in the culinary culture of the Lone Star State, and Texas Chicken Fried Steak Day provides a welcome opportunity to pay homage to that shared legacy;.." The holiday has grown from just a celebration in Texas to a celebration across the country.
What are the origins of Chicken Fried Steak? Who invented it?
First, I'll note that many people believe Chicken Fried Steak originated in Texas, inspired by German immigrants to Texas during the mid to late 19th century. These immigrants brought with them the dish of Wiener Schnitzel, a fried, breaded veal cutlet. One of the first printed references to Wiener Schnitzel was in a cookbook from 1831, and it began appearing in U.S. newspapers during the latter 1850s. It was thought that veal was expensive, so Texans replaced the veal with less expensive beef. However, as interesting as that theory may be, there's no documentary evidence to show it actually happened. And the printed evidence actually seems to cast strong doubt on this theory.
Second, around 1976, a story was reported that Chicken Fried Steak was invented in Texas by James Donald Perkins, a short order cook who had difficulty reading. He allegedly misread an order “chicken, fried steak” as “chicken fried steak.” Her wasn't sure what the order meant, but he took a piece of steak, rolled it in flour and milk, and then fried it. It became a popular dish but about a year later, James was fired and ended up dead in an alley six months later. This story spread and was taken as the truth by many people. However, in 1991, it was determined that this story was a fraud.
Second, around 1976, a story was reported that Chicken Fried Steak was invented in Texas by James Donald Perkins, a short order cook who had difficulty reading. He allegedly misread an order “chicken, fried steak” as “chicken fried steak.” Her wasn't sure what the order meant, but he took a piece of steak, rolled it in flour and milk, and then fried it. It became a popular dish but about a year later, James was fired and ended up dead in an alley six months later. This story spread and was taken as the truth by many people. However, in 1991, it was determined that this story was a fraud.
The true origins of chicken fried steak extend back to the early 19th century, to simple "fried steak." Over time, recipes for fried steak evolved, becoming what would later to called chicken fried steak. First though, some of the fried steak recipes would become known as "country fried steak," and this was before the use of the term "chicken fried steak." At one point in term, the three terms (fried steak, country fried steak, and chicken fried steak), all referred to the same dish. Thus, chicken fried steak existed before acquiring its name.
Nowadays, country fried steak and chicken-fried steak are sometimes seen as synonyms, and other times to be somewhat different. Some feel country fried steak is just dredged in flour while chicken fried steak is dipped in an egg batter. Others believe the difference is that country fried steak is covered by a brown gravy while chicken fried steak is covered by a peppery, white gravy. However, historically those differences largely didn't exist as I'll examine in this article.
Nowadays, country fried steak and chicken-fried steak are sometimes seen as synonyms, and other times to be somewhat different. Some feel country fried steak is just dredged in flour while chicken fried steak is dipped in an egg batter. Others believe the difference is that country fried steak is covered by a brown gravy while chicken fried steak is covered by a peppery, white gravy. However, historically those differences largely didn't exist as I'll examine in this article.
So, let's delve into the history of Chicken Fried Steak!
An ancestor of Chicken Fried Steak is definitely "Fried Steak," a dish which extends back at least to the 1820s, and ranged all across the country. It even existed in England at that time, often referred to there as "fried beef-steak."
Maybe the first documented recipe for fried steak was in The Dollar Newspaper (PA), October 19, 1864, pictured above. As can be seen, it's simply a fried steak seasoned with salt and pepper, and covered by a brown gravy. The article continued, adding, “Cream Gravy is nice for any fried steak or young fowl, made precisely as directed for gravy for fried beefsteak, only substituting a half tea-cup of sweet cream for butter.”
Although many claim that lesser, and tougher, cuts of beef were used for fried steak (and later chicken fried steak) , that certainly wasn't always the case. Sometimes a fine tenderloin might be used. The Waterville Telegraph (KS), December 22, 1871, published an article on “Fried Beef Steak,” noting, “Take a nice fat tenderloin steak, sprinkle with a little pepper and salt, have your iron pan on the fire, and hot! In it two of three ounces of fresh butter, melted, of course, by the heart, in this place your steak and turn again and again. Cook quickly, brown on both sides with all the juices within, warm your meat dish, and serve the steak piping hot, pouring on the dish and over the meat the melted butter, rich with the encompassed juices of the steak.” I'll also note that the steak was only seasoned with salt and pepper.
Not everyone was a fan of fried steaks, In Common Sense in the Household: A Manual of Practical Housewifery (1871) by Marion Harland, she stated, “Beef-Steak. It is not customary to fry beef-steaks for people who know what really good cookery is. To speak more plainly, a steak, killed by heat and swimming in grease, is a culinary solecism, both vulgar and indigestible.” Multiple newspaper articles during the 19th century, and into the 20th century, would also denigrate fried steaks.
A different recipe was provided in 1872, and this might actually be the first example of what would eventually be known as "chicken fried steak." In How To Cook (London, 1872) by T.L. Nichols, M.D., it stated, “Fried Steak.—A steak may first be dipped in flour, and well shaken; then, with a little fat or butter, fry it to a nice brown. Veal cutlets, mutton chops, poultry and game, may be done in the same manner.” The addition of the flour is what separates this recipe from the prior recipes for fried steak. Later recipes for country fried steak and chicken fried steak would basically be similar, just dredging the steak in flour before frying it.
For example, An Easy & Economical Book of Jewish Cookery Upon Strictly Orthodox Principles (1874) by Mrs. J. Atrutel, provided a recipe, “No. 48.—Fried Steak and Potatoes. Put a little fat in a pan. Season the steak with salt and pepper, and sprinkle a little flour over the steak. Fry it a nice brown colour.” This was 40 years before the first printed mention of "chicken fried steak."
More hate for fried steak! The Daily National Republican (D.C.), November 13, 1876, ranted, “Your grandmother would have scorned a fried steak.” It continued, “Yet the American beefsteak, the national dish for breakfast, is generally fried. It is often of a pale, measly complexion. Its dry and hard surface is vainly irrigated with lukewarm grease, in which lumps of soft butter float---“ Finally, it advised, “Devote your energy to securing a juicy, broiled steak,…”
In contrast, there was another recipe, with a higher quality cut of beef, which wouldn't have been pale and mealy, or dry and hard. In Housekeeping in Old Virginia (1879) edited by Marion Cabell Tyree, it stated, “Fried Steak. Get from the butcher a tenderloin or porter-house steak. Do not wash it, but be careful to lay it on a clean block and beat it well, but not into holes, nor so as to look ragged. Sprinkle over pepper and salt, then dredge with flour on both sides.” The use of tenderloin or porterhouse for a fried steak may not have been the norm, but there were people making it from those choice cuts.
Returning to more hate. The Lawrence Daily Journal (KS), February 15, 1880, stated, “We hear a great deal about that ‘abomination called fried steak.’ I will tell you how to make tough steak tender, and how to fry it so that it will be juicy.” The advice continued, “Do not pound it, either with a rolling pin or a potato-masher, or even with that jagged piece of metal or crockery ware which house-furnishing dealers will try to delude you into buying. If you do pound it you will only batter its fibres and let out all its juices.” Instead, the article recommended pouring into a dish a quantity of vinegar, salad oil, salt, pepper, chopped parsley (with optional chopped onion) and then laying the steak in the dish for 3-4 hours. That was supposed to make the steak tender.
The use of flour for fried steak was universal yet. For example, the Oswego Daily Republican (KS), November 15, 1881, published a recipe for fried steak and onions but no flour was used. It was also interesting to note that the Wilson County Citizen (KS), April 12, 1889, stated the term “Smothered Venus" referred to "fried steak and onions.”
The hate continued. The El Paso Herald (TX), December 12, 1899, in discussing Kansas, claimed, “Fried steak has no more nutriment than fried shavings, yet thousands of pounds are chucked into the sour stomachs of this town every month.” The Pacific Commercial Advertiser (HI), May 5, 1907, also mentioned, “Now, a fried steak is a culinary outrage, a gastronomic blasphemy. Frying oxidizes or tans rather than cooks. We see people every day eating steaks fried well done.”
Another recipe, with flour. The Erie Daily Times (PA), June 20, 1907, published the following, “Fried Steak. Use one round steak, cut one and one-half inches thick; salt, pepper, and roll thickly in flour. Fry slowly in plenty of butter and a little lard on back of range one hour.”
The Chicago Daily News (IL), May 13, 1908, provided another recipe, “Fried Steak. Into two pounds of round or other cut, rub salt to taste and a light teaspoon of soda. Let it lie overnight for breakfast, then before frying rinse in two waters, dip in flour and fry in boiling fat until well done. Serve at once, either with or without gravy poured over it.” Fried steak was a very popular dish for breakfast. And this recipe also noted serving this dish with gravy.
The Sunday World-Herald (NE), August 14, 1921, had a brief ad for the Woodmen Cafeteria which offered Chicken Fried Steak for 50 cents. The Springfield Sunday Journal (IL), November 13, 1921, ran an ad for The New Windsor Café with a Special Sunday Dinner for 65 cents and one of the options was “Chicken Fried Steak with cream gravy.” The Arizona Republican (AZ), January 24, 1922, had an ad for The Whitton’s Confectionary & Café which offered a “Special Chicken Fried Steak, Country Gravy” for 35 cents. And the Arizona Republican (AZ), March 6, 1922, ran an ad for Graves’ Café and Confectionary with “Graves special chicken fried steak with country gravy” for 35 cents.
The Fort-Wayne Journal-Gazette (IN), April 5, 1922, published an advertisement for the Dixie Waffle House which had “Chicken Fried Steak—Yankee Style” for 40 cents. There was no indication as to what was meant by “Yankee style.” The Columbia Evening Missourian (MO), July 17, 1922, ran an ad for McAllister’s Cafeteria which offered Chicken Fried Steak for 25 cents. The Tulsa Tribune (OK), December 20, 1922, printed an ad for Baker’s Elite Café with Chicken Fried Steak for 35 cents. And the Muskegon Chronicle (MI), December 26, 1922, had an ad for the Jefferson Cafeteria which served “Chicken Fried Steak, Potatoes” for 20 cents.
Then, the Riverside Daily Press (CA), September 21, 1923, published an ad for The Jersey Café. where one of the dinner options was Chicken Fried Steak. The Omaha Morning Bee (NE), November 3, 1923, ran an ad for the Burgess-Nash Company which noted, “Mezzanine Menu, 40 cents. Small Chicken Fried Steak, Lyonnaise Potatoes, Bread and Butter Fold, Ice Cream or Pie, Coffee.” The Los Angeles Examiner (CA), November 15, 1923, had an ad for Haggard’s Shop, with a dinner special of “Chicken Fried Steak with Country Gravy” for 50 cents. The Idaho Falls Daily Post (ID), December 6, 1923, ran an ad for the Rainbow Café whose Five O’Clock Specials included “Chicken Fried Steak, Country Gravy” for 45 cents.
The Omaha Morning Bee (NE), June 23, 1924, published an ad for the Rome Cafeteria, offering Chicken Fried Steak with Potatoes for 30 cents. The Sentinel-Record (AR), July 1, 1924, had an ad for Paul’s Café and one of their menu options was Chicken Fried Steak with Country Gravy for 30 cents. The Indianapolis Times (IN), June 1, 1925, printed a review of the Black Cat Chile Parlor where you could order “chicken-fried steak, French fried potatoes, and cream gravy.”
Another recipe. The Los Angeles Examiner (CA), June 6, 1925, had a Prudence Penny column, which offered its readers recipes, cooking suggestions and advice. The column noted that a previous reader had been given a recipe for chicken fried steak and now another recipe was offered. The writer had been provided this recipe by some friends, who noted it was made with a “round steak, pounded, dipped in milk and flour or egg and cracker crumbs, then fried in butter or grease, ..." The recipe continued, "Make the gravy out of the grease, adding flour and milk or water, then season with salt, pepper and Worcestershire sauce.” The writer finally stated, “I have cooked round steak in this manner many times, but never called it ‘chicken fried steak.”
The Grand Prairie Texan (TX), July 31, 1925, published an ad for the Sandwich Shoppe which offered a plate lunch special of Chicken Fried Steak, Mashed Potatoes, Blackeyed Peas, String Beans, and Sliced Tomatoes for 35 cents. The Abilene Daily Reporter (TX), August 27, 1926, ran an ad for Wilson restaurant, which stated, "Try our Chicken Fried Steak."
The Las Vegas Evening Review (NV), May 8, 1931, had an ad for the Bull Pen Inn, which featured Chicken Fried Steak Dinners in their café. The Cincinnati Post (OH), March 17, 1932, ran an ad for the Coffee Shop, and one of their dinner entrées was Chicken Fried Steak with fresh mushroom sauce. The Times-Picayune (LA), April 20, 1932, had an ad for Maison Blanche which offered a shoppers’ special lunch of Chicken Fried Steak with Cream Gravy for 25 cents.
Cooking classes. The Trenton Sunday-Times (NJ), January 29, 1933, printed an article about courses offered at Oklahoma A.&M. College, including “Bachelor housekeeping,” the unofficial title of their most popular course. This course included lessons on “preparing chicken-fried steak.”
The Palm Beach Post (FL), April 21, 1934, published an ad for Meacham’s which had Chicken Fried Steak for 17 cents. The Albuquerque Tribune (NM), May 22, 1934, ran an ad for the Liberty Café which served “Chicken Fried Steak, Country Style, Potatoes, bread and butter” for 30 cents. And the Arkansas Gazette (AR), October 12, 1934, printed an ad for a Safeway food store. In the “Cooked Foods” section of the advertisement, they offered Chicken Fried Steak at 29 cents a pound.
Another sandwich. The Arkansas Gazette (AR), May 27, 1935, in an ad for the Food Palace, offered a Chicken Fried Steak Sandwich for 10 cents.
Is chicken fried steak "cruel and unusual punishment?" The Boston Herald (MA), June 19, 1935, and other newspapers at this time, reported on a prisoner strike at the Kansas state prison. About 380 prisoners were demanding “better cooked food.” The article noted that their supper that evening was supposed to be “Chicken fried steak, country gravy, boiled potatoes, baked corn, garden vegetables, bread and iced tea.” The menu itself sounds good, but maybe it was prepared poorly, and that was the rationale behind the strike.
The New Canaan Advertiser (CT), April 30, 1936, had an intriguing article titled “Chicken Fried Steak Is Truly California Dish” with a subtitle of “Kansas Small Town Folks and Son of Sunny Italy Collaborate To Excellent Dish” The restaurant, located in Los Angeles, California, was famous for a single "great dish," Chicken Fried Steak. It appears that the owners, Tillie and Mack, came from Kansas with the basic chicken fried steak recipe. One of their customers, an Italian man, dined there but wasn't happy with the dish. He felt it could be improved and he designed a garlic sauce for the dish, which Tillie and Mack decided to adopt. The altered recipe is pictured above, and you'll note that the steak is just covered in flour, and there weren't any eggs or crumbs added.
The Los Angeles Examiner (CA), May 1, 1936, briefly stated, “We hear so much about chicken-fried steak, but now lamb chops have agreed to be treated in the same manner and here is how it is done.” A recipe was then provided for those lamb chops. Once again, the recipe only asked for flour as a coating for the chicken fried lamb chops and added a mushroom gravy.
The New Orleans Item (LA), August 17, 1936, discussed the A.&G. Sandwich Stands, which have multiple locations, and offered Chicken-Fried Steak sandwiches for 15 cents.
Another recipe. The Jersey Journal (NJ), August 27, 1936, presented a recipe for chicken fried steak, “Use steaks cut from the round, nor more than ½ inch thick, dredge in flour, season with salt and pepper. Fry quickly in hot shortening. Blend flour with far, add water, stirring to prevent lumps, season and pour over steak.” Again, simply flour was used.
The Parish Cook Book (New York, 1937) by the Ladies’ Guild of Grace Episcopal Church, provided the above recipe. Interestingly, sirloin tips were one of the recommended cuts of beef. And once again, flour was the only coating, and a mushroom gravy was made for atop the steak.
The Patteran Cook Book (1939) by the Woman’s Club of Whittier, CA, provided the above recipe, which called for a T-bone or sirloin steak. It too was only covered by flour, and also had a mushroom gravy.
The Atlanta Journal (GA), January 5, 1939, provided another recipe for Chicken-Fried Steak, which called for the use of sirloin steak. The only covering was flour, but this recipe did not call for a gravy.
The Evening Tribune (CA), June 1, 1939, printed an advertisement for Safeway which had a recipe for Chicken Fried Steak. The ingredients included 2 lbs. Round Steak cut thick, 1 tsp salt, ½ tsp pepper, ¾ cup flour, 2 cups milk, and 5 tbsps shortening. The directions stated, “Pound steak to half original thickness. Dip in seasoned flour; fry quickly in hot fat, turning twice. Remove steak to hot plate and thicken fat with flour. Stir until smooth, add milk to make gravy. Season, serve with steak. Serves 6.”
Chicken fried steak was even available in Alaska! The Daily Alaska Empire (AK), October 21, 1939, noted that The Baranof Hotel served Chicken Fried Steak with Country Gravy.
The Springfield Republican (MA), March 4, 1940, printed the above recipe for Chicken Fried Steak, and it also used only flour as a coating.
A different coating for chicken fried steak. The Times-Picayune (LA), May 18, 1940, published the above recipe, where the steak was coated with more of a batter, using flour, salt, milk, egg and baking powder. This is more like the modern day chicken fried steak, but it took a number of years before this became the norm instead of merely a flour coating.
The Morning Advocate (LA), December 22, 1940, also provided a recipe for Chicken Fried Steak, as well as a variation, “Spanish Steak.” It was made like chicken fried steak except you substituted 2 cups of canned tomatoes for water and cream. Plus, you arranged 5 green pepper rings atop steak when it was done.
The popularity of chicken fried steak! The Boston Traveler (MA), April 22, 1942, reported that experts from the National Restaurant Association, at an annual meeting, compiled a list of Americans' top 10 favorite dishes. The First Place dish was Ham & eggs, country style while Second Place went to Prime ribs of beef, au jus. Third Place was occupied by Chicken-fried steak & country gravy.
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An ancestor of Chicken Fried Steak is definitely "Fried Steak," a dish which extends back at least to the 1820s, and ranged all across the country. It even existed in England at that time, often referred to there as "fried beef-steak."
Although many claim that lesser, and tougher, cuts of beef were used for fried steak (and later chicken fried steak) , that certainly wasn't always the case. Sometimes a fine tenderloin might be used. The Waterville Telegraph (KS), December 22, 1871, published an article on “Fried Beef Steak,” noting, “Take a nice fat tenderloin steak, sprinkle with a little pepper and salt, have your iron pan on the fire, and hot! In it two of three ounces of fresh butter, melted, of course, by the heart, in this place your steak and turn again and again. Cook quickly, brown on both sides with all the juices within, warm your meat dish, and serve the steak piping hot, pouring on the dish and over the meat the melted butter, rich with the encompassed juices of the steak.” I'll also note that the steak was only seasoned with salt and pepper.
Not everyone was a fan of fried steaks, In Common Sense in the Household: A Manual of Practical Housewifery (1871) by Marion Harland, she stated, “Beef-Steak. It is not customary to fry beef-steaks for people who know what really good cookery is. To speak more plainly, a steak, killed by heat and swimming in grease, is a culinary solecism, both vulgar and indigestible.” Multiple newspaper articles during the 19th century, and into the 20th century, would also denigrate fried steaks.
A different recipe was provided in 1872, and this might actually be the first example of what would eventually be known as "chicken fried steak." In How To Cook (London, 1872) by T.L. Nichols, M.D., it stated, “Fried Steak.—A steak may first be dipped in flour, and well shaken; then, with a little fat or butter, fry it to a nice brown. Veal cutlets, mutton chops, poultry and game, may be done in the same manner.” The addition of the flour is what separates this recipe from the prior recipes for fried steak. Later recipes for country fried steak and chicken fried steak would basically be similar, just dredging the steak in flour before frying it.
It's also fascinating that this recipe originated in London, England! Could this be the actual origin of chicken fried steak? It seems unlikely as most Americans would never have seen this cook book, and it wouldn't have been influential here. However, it wasn't long before the use of flour was noted in an American cook book.
For example, An Easy & Economical Book of Jewish Cookery Upon Strictly Orthodox Principles (1874) by Mrs. J. Atrutel, provided a recipe, “No. 48.—Fried Steak and Potatoes. Put a little fat in a pan. Season the steak with salt and pepper, and sprinkle a little flour over the steak. Fry it a nice brown colour.” This was 40 years before the first printed mention of "chicken fried steak."
More hate for fried steak! The Daily National Republican (D.C.), November 13, 1876, ranted, “Your grandmother would have scorned a fried steak.” It continued, “Yet the American beefsteak, the national dish for breakfast, is generally fried. It is often of a pale, measly complexion. Its dry and hard surface is vainly irrigated with lukewarm grease, in which lumps of soft butter float---“ Finally, it advised, “Devote your energy to securing a juicy, broiled steak,…”
In contrast, there was another recipe, with a higher quality cut of beef, which wouldn't have been pale and mealy, or dry and hard. In Housekeeping in Old Virginia (1879) edited by Marion Cabell Tyree, it stated, “Fried Steak. Get from the butcher a tenderloin or porter-house steak. Do not wash it, but be careful to lay it on a clean block and beat it well, but not into holes, nor so as to look ragged. Sprinkle over pepper and salt, then dredge with flour on both sides.” The use of tenderloin or porterhouse for a fried steak may not have been the norm, but there were people making it from those choice cuts.
Returning to more hate. The Lawrence Daily Journal (KS), February 15, 1880, stated, “We hear a great deal about that ‘abomination called fried steak.’ I will tell you how to make tough steak tender, and how to fry it so that it will be juicy.” The advice continued, “Do not pound it, either with a rolling pin or a potato-masher, or even with that jagged piece of metal or crockery ware which house-furnishing dealers will try to delude you into buying. If you do pound it you will only batter its fibres and let out all its juices.” Instead, the article recommended pouring into a dish a quantity of vinegar, salad oil, salt, pepper, chopped parsley (with optional chopped onion) and then laying the steak in the dish for 3-4 hours. That was supposed to make the steak tender.
The use of flour for fried steak was universal yet. For example, the Oswego Daily Republican (KS), November 15, 1881, published a recipe for fried steak and onions but no flour was used. It was also interesting to note that the Wilson County Citizen (KS), April 12, 1889, stated the term “Smothered Venus" referred to "fried steak and onions.”
The hate continued. The El Paso Herald (TX), December 12, 1899, in discussing Kansas, claimed, “Fried steak has no more nutriment than fried shavings, yet thousands of pounds are chucked into the sour stomachs of this town every month.” The Pacific Commercial Advertiser (HI), May 5, 1907, also mentioned, “Now, a fried steak is a culinary outrage, a gastronomic blasphemy. Frying oxidizes or tans rather than cooks. We see people every day eating steaks fried well done.”
Another recipe, with flour. The Erie Daily Times (PA), June 20, 1907, published the following, “Fried Steak. Use one round steak, cut one and one-half inches thick; salt, pepper, and roll thickly in flour. Fry slowly in plenty of butter and a little lard on back of range one hour.”
The Chicago Daily News (IL), May 13, 1908, provided another recipe, “Fried Steak. Into two pounds of round or other cut, rub salt to taste and a light teaspoon of soda. Let it lie overnight for breakfast, then before frying rinse in two waters, dip in flour and fry in boiling fat until well done. Serve at once, either with or without gravy poured over it.” Fried steak was a very popular dish for breakfast. And this recipe also noted serving this dish with gravy.
During the next few months, this recipe would also be published in a variety of other newspapers across the country, including in California, Colorado, Kansas, Nebraska, New Mexico, Oklahoma, Oregon, Rhode Island, and Wisconsin. I'll note that Texas wasn't included on this list.
Another recipe, for "French Fried Steak" first appeared in the Chicago Tribune (IL), December 27, 1908. “French Fried Steak. Take a nice cut of round steak one inch thick, cut in pieces any size desired; take a knife and cross bar it on both sides; salt, pepper and flour; fry to a nice brown, drain most all the fat out of your pan and put your meat back in the pan so it will not rest flat on the bottom. Then almost cover with boiling water, cover tight and let boil slowly until tender. Always replenish with boiling water, and when done have enough water on meat so you will have a nice brown gravy. You may add onions chopped fine if desired.”
Another recipe, for "French Fried Steak" first appeared in the Chicago Tribune (IL), December 27, 1908. “French Fried Steak. Take a nice cut of round steak one inch thick, cut in pieces any size desired; take a knife and cross bar it on both sides; salt, pepper and flour; fry to a nice brown, drain most all the fat out of your pan and put your meat back in the pan so it will not rest flat on the bottom. Then almost cover with boiling water, cover tight and let boil slowly until tender. Always replenish with boiling water, and when done have enough water on meat so you will have a nice brown gravy. You may add onions chopped fine if desired.”
This recipe would also appear in a variety of other newspapers across the country, including in Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky, Louisiana, Maryland, Minnesota, Missouri, Nebraska, Oklahoma, and West Virginia. Once again, note that Texas wasn't included on this list. However, we do see that frying a steak, dredged in flour, was becoming very common across the country.
The first appearance of the term "country fried steak" appears to have arrived in 1909, five years prior to the use of the term "chicken fried steak." The Tennessean (TN), May 1, 1909, published the above ad for the Royal Hotel and Saloon, noting they served “Country Fried Steak, with Coffee” for 15 cents. Unfortunately, the ad didn't provide a description of this dish.
The St. Louis Star and Times (MO), January 2, 1910, published an ad for Winter’s Southern Lunch Room, which offered “Country Fried Steak (Southern Style)." Again, it's unfortunate that no further description was provided of this dish.
The hate of fried steak continued! The Trenton Evening Times (NJ), May 6, 1911, reported that, “The good wives of Kansas are all agog over the bill that has been introduced into the Legislature making it unlawful to fry beefsteak, says a writer in Success Magazine. In support of his measure, the Kansas lawmaker maintains that fried steak is unhealthful, fruitful of domestic discord and a frequent cause for divorce. Whether it has anything to do with panics, bribery or sunspots this reformer does not state. Steak friers are up in arms against this threatened invasion of the kitchen. Healthy gentlemen who have lived long, useful lives on beefsteak burned hard and dry as shingles are pushed forward as unwilling exhibits.”
The hate of fried steak continued! The Trenton Evening Times (NJ), May 6, 1911, reported that, “The good wives of Kansas are all agog over the bill that has been introduced into the Legislature making it unlawful to fry beefsteak, says a writer in Success Magazine. In support of his measure, the Kansas lawmaker maintains that fried steak is unhealthful, fruitful of domestic discord and a frequent cause for divorce. Whether it has anything to do with panics, bribery or sunspots this reformer does not state. Steak friers are up in arms against this threatened invasion of the kitchen. Healthy gentlemen who have lived long, useful lives on beefsteak burned hard and dry as shingles are pushed forward as unwilling exhibits.”
This article was repeated in other newspapers in other parts of the country, but apparently the bill never went anywhere as I couldn't find any follow-up article about it. This was probably more of a publicity stunt rather than an actual desire to prohibit fried steak.
In addition, the Lakeland Evening Telegram (FL), November 6, 1911, noted that, “The Ocala Star declares that fried steak breaks up more happy homes than booze." It seems rather curious that two different sources would allege domestic problems caused by fried steak.
The Marion News-Tribune (IN), December 12, 1911, published an ad for Anderson’s Café, which offered “Country Fried Steak with Cream Gravy” for 15 cents.
Another high-end cut for fried steak. The Farmers Mail & Breeze (KS), January 4, 1913, ran a recipe, submitted by one of their readers, for, “Fried Tenderloin Steak. A nice way to prepare tenderloin is to slice it about 2 inches thick, mash it thin with a wooden potato masher then dip in an egg well beaten, sprinkle on salt and pepper, dip in flour and fry brown in hot lard.” This recipe, which basically is chicken fried steak, appeared before the first documented reference of that term. It's also the first time a fried steak recipe called for dipping the steak in egg and flour.
The term "chicken fried steak" finally made its first known appearance in print in 1914. The Colorado Springs Gazette (C), June 11, 1914, published the above advertisement for the Phelps restaurant. It states, “Did You Ever Eat A Chicken Fried Steak? They are delicious.” This seems to indicate that chicken fried steak was something new, or at least that term was new.
In addition, the Lakeland Evening Telegram (FL), November 6, 1911, noted that, “The Ocala Star declares that fried steak breaks up more happy homes than booze." It seems rather curious that two different sources would allege domestic problems caused by fried steak.
The Marion News-Tribune (IN), December 12, 1911, published an ad for Anderson’s Café, which offered “Country Fried Steak with Cream Gravy” for 15 cents.
For unknown reasons, what was previously called "fried steak" or "country fried steak" was now being called "chicken fried steak" by some people. It was simply a change of name, as the basic recipe remained the same. Whoever was the first to coin the term "chicken fried steak" will probably remain unknown forever. It might have originated in Colorado, but then again, it could have originated in another state. Phelps didn't appear to make the claim to be the originator of that term.
Phelps would publish a number of other advertisements, from June to September 1914, discussing their chicken fried steak. One stated, “Our chef’s best effort—Chicken Fried Steak. Delicious, appetizing, satisfying. Served every day.” Another ad noted, “A Summer Dainty. Chicken Fried Steak” while another one mentioned, “Chicken Fried Steak. A cooling summer food, at the coolest restaurant in the city.” And still another stated, “Chicken Fried Steak—Cooling—Served at Phelps.” An August ad stated, “Chicken Fried Steak is delicious for lunch today" while a September ad said, “We serve Chicken Fried Steak every day in our cafeteria and dining room.” Almost all of these ads only mentioned Chicken Fried Steak, with a single ad also mentioning "Chocolate Marshmallow Cake."
The Beloit Daily Call (KS), August 4, 1914, published the following recipe, “Fried Round Steak. Take a good cut of round steak and pound it full of flour until no more can be pounded into it, then salt and pepper it; sear on both sides by placing it in a hot frying pan, cover with hot water and bake for 20 minutes in a hot oven.”
A number of restaurants in the Midwest then started advertising country fried steak or chicken fried steak. The Columbia Missourian (MO), February 10, 1915, ran a restaurant ad offering “Country Fried Steak, German Fried Potatoes, Creamy Gravy and Coffee” for 35 cents. The St. Joseph News-Press (MO), December 22, 1915, in a brief ad for Lee Broom’s restaurant, noted a Special of “Chicken fried steak, hot rolls, potatoes and coffee” for 20 cents. The Beloit Daily Call (KS), February 9, 1916, had an ad for Quinn’s Café, and one of their specials was “Chicken Fried Steaks.” The Kansas City Star (MO), June 10, 1916, ran an ad noting, “Dine and Dance at Heisen Follies. Chicken-fried Steaks a specialty.” The Parsons Daily Republican (KS), September 2, 1916, stated, “Eat chicken fried steak supper at Sly’s today.”
Chicken fried steak wasn't just for restaurants. The Fort Scott Daily Tribune (KS), January 23, 1917, ran an article about night school classes and mentioned that the cooking class would teach students how to prepare “chicken fried steak with cream gravy.” The dish had to have been popular enough that people wanted to learn how to prepare it at home.
The Dodge City Daily Globe (KS), March 3, 1917, published an ad for the Big Popular Café, with a special Sunday dinner of Chicken Fried Sirloin Steak with a Cream Gravy. And the Des Moines Tribune (Iowa), October 30, 1917, had an ad for the Harris-Emery’s store with a cafeteria special of "Chicken Fried Steak with Fried Potatoes." The Carlsbad Current-Argus (NM), May 3, 1918, published an ad for the Crawford Café which served Chicken Fried Steak. The Democrat-Herald (OK), November 7, 1918, had an ad for the Newport Café offering a Thursday supper of Chicken Fried Steak and Cream Gravy for 35 cents.
The Press-Telegram (CA), August 13, 1919, posted the above advertisement for The Beacon, a "Drugless Drug Store." They offered “Chicken Fried Steak. A tender, juicy steak, dipped in flour, fried in butter, with delicious chicken flavored country gravy, fried potatoes, bread and butter, coffee, tea or milk” for only 50 cents. This was the first full description of chicken fried steak that we have seen, and it's basically the same as prior recipes for "fried steak" and "country fried steak." The steak was just dipped in flour, and a "flavored country gravy" covered the steak. So, it is clear that at this point, "chicken fried steak" was just a new name for an old dish.
The Beloit Daily Call (KS), August 4, 1914, published the following recipe, “Fried Round Steak. Take a good cut of round steak and pound it full of flour until no more can be pounded into it, then salt and pepper it; sear on both sides by placing it in a hot frying pan, cover with hot water and bake for 20 minutes in a hot oven.”
A number of restaurants in the Midwest then started advertising country fried steak or chicken fried steak. The Columbia Missourian (MO), February 10, 1915, ran a restaurant ad offering “Country Fried Steak, German Fried Potatoes, Creamy Gravy and Coffee” for 35 cents. The St. Joseph News-Press (MO), December 22, 1915, in a brief ad for Lee Broom’s restaurant, noted a Special of “Chicken fried steak, hot rolls, potatoes and coffee” for 20 cents. The Beloit Daily Call (KS), February 9, 1916, had an ad for Quinn’s Café, and one of their specials was “Chicken Fried Steaks.” The Kansas City Star (MO), June 10, 1916, ran an ad noting, “Dine and Dance at Heisen Follies. Chicken-fried Steaks a specialty.” The Parsons Daily Republican (KS), September 2, 1916, stated, “Eat chicken fried steak supper at Sly’s today.”
Chicken fried steak wasn't just for restaurants. The Fort Scott Daily Tribune (KS), January 23, 1917, ran an article about night school classes and mentioned that the cooking class would teach students how to prepare “chicken fried steak with cream gravy.” The dish had to have been popular enough that people wanted to learn how to prepare it at home.
The Dodge City Daily Globe (KS), March 3, 1917, published an ad for the Big Popular Café, with a special Sunday dinner of Chicken Fried Sirloin Steak with a Cream Gravy. And the Des Moines Tribune (Iowa), October 30, 1917, had an ad for the Harris-Emery’s store with a cafeteria special of "Chicken Fried Steak with Fried Potatoes." The Carlsbad Current-Argus (NM), May 3, 1918, published an ad for the Crawford Café which served Chicken Fried Steak. The Democrat-Herald (OK), November 7, 1918, had an ad for the Newport Café offering a Thursday supper of Chicken Fried Steak and Cream Gravy for 35 cents.
Death due to chicken fried steak! The Kansas City Journal (KS), October 23, 1919 and Kansas City Times (KS), October 23, 1919, reported on a killing which originated from an argument over the size of a chicken fried steak. On October 22, James R. Laughlin, aka “Awful Jim,” dined at the Ever Eat restaurant and had a dish of chicken fried steak. It was claimed that he acquired his nickname from the power of his right arm when he fought in the boxing arena about ten years ago. He was currently a watch repairer, but had a reputation, including with the police, as a "bad fighter."
The dish cost 30 cents and when James went to pay, he claimed that the steak had been too small and wasn't worth 30 cents. This led to an argument and scuffle with James Kanatanis (or Komantanis), a 23 year old Greek waiter. At some point, four employees worked together to eject Laughlin from the restaurant. However, he returned, carrying a revolver. At some point, Kanatanis hit Laughlin in the head with a milk bottle, inflicting a deep cut, and Laughlin shot Kanatanis through the heart, possibly while he was trying to call the police. There were plenty of witnesses to the incident.
Earlier that year, Laughlin had run into other legal problems. The Kansas City Kansan (KS), February 11, 1919, reported that James R. Laughlin, had been arrested the previous night for breaking the jaw of Don Stout with one blow. They had been eating a "midnight lunch" at a restaurant and James alleged that Stout took up too much room at the counter and couldn’t resist hitting him. James stated, “No man can put his elbow in my potatoes without suffering for it.” Curiously, the article also claimed that Laughlin acquired his nickname, “Awful Jim," about 15 years ago while playing semi-pro baseball in Kansas City. He eventually pled guilty, was fined $25 and sentenced to five days in jail.
Earlier that year, Laughlin had run into other legal problems. The Kansas City Kansan (KS), February 11, 1919, reported that James R. Laughlin, had been arrested the previous night for breaking the jaw of Don Stout with one blow. They had been eating a "midnight lunch" at a restaurant and James alleged that Stout took up too much room at the counter and couldn’t resist hitting him. James stated, “No man can put his elbow in my potatoes without suffering for it.” Curiously, the article also claimed that Laughlin acquired his nickname, “Awful Jim," about 15 years ago while playing semi-pro baseball in Kansas City. He eventually pled guilty, was fined $25 and sentenced to five days in jail.
As to the shooting over the chicken fried steak, Laughlin was charged with murder and didn't go to trial until June 1920. Laughlin alleged self defense, and the trial ended in a hung jury. It was noted that Laughlin would be retried although it doesn't appear that ever came to fruition. The Kansas City Star (KS), April 7, 1922, then reported that Laughlin had died, although the cause of death wasn't provided.
The St. Louis Star and Times (MO), January 8, 1920, punished an ad for Remley’s, mentioning that Cafeteria Saturday offered “Country Fried Steak, genuine native steer, cut right from the choice porterhouse; tender as butter, sweet as a nut” for 25 cents. This is another example where the steak wasn't always a lesser cut. On the other had, The Daily Oklahoman (OK), April 4, 1920, ran an article about beef cuts, noting that flank steak can be used for “mock chicken-fried steak.”
An amusing aside. The Manhattan Republic (KS), April 15, 1920, briefly quipped, “The person who named chicken fried steak must have been a city chef who thinks that chickens are raised in cold storage houses.”
The Emporia Gazette (KS), October 15, 1920, ran the above advertisement for the Mit-Way Hotel, with a sample menu of their 50 cent lunch, which included “Chicken Fried Steak, Cream Gravy.”
The Tulsa Tribune (OK), March 31, 1921, had an ad, pictured above, for Newman Eats, which was “Open all night. Tables for ladies.” One of the menu options was “Chicken Fried Steak, Cream Gravy” for 30 cents.
In June 1921, the Maids’ and Matrons’ Cook Book: 600 Choice and Tested Recipes by the Women of the Christian Church (Colby, Kansas) was published, and it contained a recipe for Chicken Fried Steak. First, it called for round steak or sirloin (which certainly is not as lesser cut). Second, the steak was dipped in a batter of eggs and milk, and then dipped into cracker or bread crumbs. This recipe is similar to the recipe from 1913 from the Farmers Mail & Breeze (KS). However, this recipe also included the use of cracker or bread crumbs, the first use of such items in one of these recipes.
The St. Louis Star and Times (MO), January 8, 1920, punished an ad for Remley’s, mentioning that Cafeteria Saturday offered “Country Fried Steak, genuine native steer, cut right from the choice porterhouse; tender as butter, sweet as a nut” for 25 cents. This is another example where the steak wasn't always a lesser cut. On the other had, The Daily Oklahoman (OK), April 4, 1920, ran an article about beef cuts, noting that flank steak can be used for “mock chicken-fried steak.”
An amusing aside. The Manhattan Republic (KS), April 15, 1920, briefly quipped, “The person who named chicken fried steak must have been a city chef who thinks that chickens are raised in cold storage houses.”
The Sunday World-Herald (NE), August 14, 1921, had a brief ad for the Woodmen Cafeteria which offered Chicken Fried Steak for 50 cents. The Springfield Sunday Journal (IL), November 13, 1921, ran an ad for The New Windsor Café with a Special Sunday Dinner for 65 cents and one of the options was “Chicken Fried Steak with cream gravy.” The Arizona Republican (AZ), January 24, 1922, had an ad for The Whitton’s Confectionary & Café which offered a “Special Chicken Fried Steak, Country Gravy” for 35 cents. And the Arizona Republican (AZ), March 6, 1922, ran an ad for Graves’ Café and Confectionary with “Graves special chicken fried steak with country gravy” for 35 cents.
The Fort-Wayne Journal-Gazette (IN), April 5, 1922, published an advertisement for the Dixie Waffle House which had “Chicken Fried Steak—Yankee Style” for 40 cents. There was no indication as to what was meant by “Yankee style.” The Columbia Evening Missourian (MO), July 17, 1922, ran an ad for McAllister’s Cafeteria which offered Chicken Fried Steak for 25 cents. The Tulsa Tribune (OK), December 20, 1922, printed an ad for Baker’s Elite Café with Chicken Fried Steak for 35 cents. And the Muskegon Chronicle (MI), December 26, 1922, had an ad for the Jefferson Cafeteria which served “Chicken Fried Steak, Potatoes” for 20 cents.
Then, the Riverside Daily Press (CA), September 21, 1923, published an ad for The Jersey Café. where one of the dinner options was Chicken Fried Steak. The Omaha Morning Bee (NE), November 3, 1923, ran an ad for the Burgess-Nash Company which noted, “Mezzanine Menu, 40 cents. Small Chicken Fried Steak, Lyonnaise Potatoes, Bread and Butter Fold, Ice Cream or Pie, Coffee.” The Los Angeles Examiner (CA), November 15, 1923, had an ad for Haggard’s Shop, with a dinner special of “Chicken Fried Steak with Country Gravy” for 50 cents. The Idaho Falls Daily Post (ID), December 6, 1923, ran an ad for the Rainbow Café whose Five O’Clock Specials included “Chicken Fried Steak, Country Gravy” for 45 cents.
Chicken Fried Steak was becoming a popular dish across a significant portion of the country.
Chicken fried steak even ended up being served in New York City! In 1924, there was a Circle Theater Souvenir Edition of the song, Alabama Rose by W.W. Trahern. Sophie Tucker had sung the song, and the lyrics and music were included in this brief volume. The volume also had numerous advertisements for New York City businesses. One of the advertisers was the Theater Café, which offered chicken fried steak and gravy.
Another recipe. The Los Angeles Examiner (CA), June 6, 1925, had a Prudence Penny column, which offered its readers recipes, cooking suggestions and advice. The column noted that a previous reader had been given a recipe for chicken fried steak and now another recipe was offered. The writer had been provided this recipe by some friends, who noted it was made with a “round steak, pounded, dipped in milk and flour or egg and cracker crumbs, then fried in butter or grease, ..." The recipe continued, "Make the gravy out of the grease, adding flour and milk or water, then season with salt, pepper and Worcestershire sauce.” The writer finally stated, “I have cooked round steak in this manner many times, but never called it ‘chicken fried steak.”
The Grand Prairie Texan (TX), July 31, 1925, published an ad for the Sandwich Shoppe which offered a plate lunch special of Chicken Fried Steak, Mashed Potatoes, Blackeyed Peas, String Beans, and Sliced Tomatoes for 35 cents. The Abilene Daily Reporter (TX), August 27, 1926, ran an ad for Wilson restaurant, which stated, "Try our Chicken Fried Steak."
These two references were the first printed mentions of Chicken Fried Steak in Texas, eleven years after the term's first documented mentions in Colorado in 1914. And we have seen all the other printed mentions of this term in a number of other states, including Arizona, California, Idaho, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Michigan, Missouri, Nebraska, New Mexico, New York, and Oklahoma. If Texas had been the birthplace of chicken fried steak, then we would have seen earlier mentions, rather than the first appearing eleven years later.
The Laredo Daily Times (TX), January 28, 1927, presented an announcement and advertisement for the Robt. E. Lee Dining Room. The ad cheekily stated, “If Your Wife Can’t Cook, Don’t Divorce Her—Keep Her for a Pet, and Dine at the Robt. E. Lee Hotel.” Their menu included chicken fried steak and country gravy.
A Chicken Fried Steak Sandwich! The Bonham Daily Favorite (TX), January 19, 1928, ran an ad for the John Pierce Sandwich Shop which offered a Chicken Fried Steak Sandwich for 10 cents. This was the first mention of such a sandwich although it certainly wouldn't be the last. Other restaurants across the country would also begin offering such sandwiches.
Another recipe. The Los Angeles Evening Express (CA), April 30, 1928, provided the following recipe; “Chicken-fried steak is prepared as follows: Dredge round steak or sirloin tops with flour and sear quickly on both sides in hot fat in frying pan. When well browned sprinkle with salt and pepper, add a small amount of water, cover tightly and allow to steam until tender. It is well to put into the oven for the steaming, as it will require less attention. When the meat is tender it should be removed to a hot platter and thin brown gravy made of the drippings. This is poured over the steak, resembling smothered chicken.” As we see, the steak was only dredged in flour, similar to the prior recipes for "Fried Steak" and "Country Fried Steak."
The Houston Chronicle (TX), November 2, 1928, had an ad for the Rice Hotel Cafeteria and one of their 5 O’clock Specials was “Chicken Fried Steak, Roadhaus Style” for 50 cents. They had a similar ad on November 19 with “Chicken Fried Steak, Roadhouse Style, Candied Yams” and another ad in February 6, 1929 with “Chicken Fried Steak, Country Gravy, Asparagus Tips” for 46 cents. There was no explanation as to what was meant by "Roadhouse Style."
The Council Bluffs Nonpareil (IA), November 7, 1928, ran an ad for the Chieftain Coffee Shop whose lunch menu included Chicken Fried Steak with Corn Fritters. The Abilene Daily Reporter (TX), January 11, 1929, printed an ad for the Grace Coffee Shop with a Saturday special of “Chicken Fried Steak, Pan Gravy.”
In the Los Angeles Examiner (CA), February 9, 1929, the Prudence Penny column ran another recipe for Chicken Fried Steak, which stated: “Get round steak, pound it thoroughly with a potato masher to break the tough fibers, and then dip first in milk, then in four, or first in egg, then in cracker crumbs. Saute in the frying pan with butter or other fat, and make gravy out of the fat, thickening with flour, and adding milk or water. Then season with salt, pepper and Worcestershire sauce.”
There was another recipe in the Los Angeles Examiner (CA), March 1, 1929, in the Prudence Penny column. A reader, Mrs. J.S. Campbell, submitted her own recipe, “Have sirloin tips, or the upper half of a round steak cut ¾-inch thick. Lay on board and pound with blunt instrument, wooden potato masher is good. Roll in flour and sprinkle a handful on steak for good measure and pound some more. When steak has absorbed all the flour it will take, drop in a pan of hot drippings, or half butter and other fat. Brown well on one side. When the steak is turned, lower flame and fry or stream for fifteen minutes. If drippings are used, a piece of butter added after turning goes a long way to make meat tender. This is chicken fried steak, Louisiana style.”
A Chicken Fried Steak Sandwich! The Bonham Daily Favorite (TX), January 19, 1928, ran an ad for the John Pierce Sandwich Shop which offered a Chicken Fried Steak Sandwich for 10 cents. This was the first mention of such a sandwich although it certainly wouldn't be the last. Other restaurants across the country would also begin offering such sandwiches.
Another recipe. The Los Angeles Evening Express (CA), April 30, 1928, provided the following recipe; “Chicken-fried steak is prepared as follows: Dredge round steak or sirloin tops with flour and sear quickly on both sides in hot fat in frying pan. When well browned sprinkle with salt and pepper, add a small amount of water, cover tightly and allow to steam until tender. It is well to put into the oven for the steaming, as it will require less attention. When the meat is tender it should be removed to a hot platter and thin brown gravy made of the drippings. This is poured over the steak, resembling smothered chicken.” As we see, the steak was only dredged in flour, similar to the prior recipes for "Fried Steak" and "Country Fried Steak."
The Houston Chronicle (TX), November 2, 1928, had an ad for the Rice Hotel Cafeteria and one of their 5 O’clock Specials was “Chicken Fried Steak, Roadhaus Style” for 50 cents. They had a similar ad on November 19 with “Chicken Fried Steak, Roadhouse Style, Candied Yams” and another ad in February 6, 1929 with “Chicken Fried Steak, Country Gravy, Asparagus Tips” for 46 cents. There was no explanation as to what was meant by "Roadhouse Style."
The Council Bluffs Nonpareil (IA), November 7, 1928, ran an ad for the Chieftain Coffee Shop whose lunch menu included Chicken Fried Steak with Corn Fritters. The Abilene Daily Reporter (TX), January 11, 1929, printed an ad for the Grace Coffee Shop with a Saturday special of “Chicken Fried Steak, Pan Gravy.”
In the Los Angeles Examiner (CA), February 9, 1929, the Prudence Penny column ran another recipe for Chicken Fried Steak, which stated: “Get round steak, pound it thoroughly with a potato masher to break the tough fibers, and then dip first in milk, then in four, or first in egg, then in cracker crumbs. Saute in the frying pan with butter or other fat, and make gravy out of the fat, thickening with flour, and adding milk or water. Then season with salt, pepper and Worcestershire sauce.”
There was another recipe in the Los Angeles Examiner (CA), March 1, 1929, in the Prudence Penny column. A reader, Mrs. J.S. Campbell, submitted her own recipe, “Have sirloin tips, or the upper half of a round steak cut ¾-inch thick. Lay on board and pound with blunt instrument, wooden potato masher is good. Roll in flour and sprinkle a handful on steak for good measure and pound some more. When steak has absorbed all the flour it will take, drop in a pan of hot drippings, or half butter and other fat. Brown well on one side. When the steak is turned, lower flame and fry or stream for fifteen minutes. If drippings are used, a piece of butter added after turning goes a long way to make meat tender. This is chicken fried steak, Louisiana style.”
These two recipes were very different, one more of the original recipe, with just the use of flour, and the other the more evolved, with the use of milk, egg and cracker crumbs. Chicken fried steak had multiple meanings at this point.
The Indianapolis Times (IN), April 1, 1929, had an ad for Wheeler’s Lunch, with all week special of “Delicious Chicken Fried Steak, Pan Gravy, Stringless Beans and Tea Biscuits” for 30 cents. And the Illinois State Register (IL), May 9, 1929, ran an ad for Dewitt’s Café, offering, “Delicious Chicken Fried Steak and French Fries Potatoes” for 50 cents.
Boys Scouts and chicken fried steak! The Abilene Morning Reporter-News (TX), July 28, 1929, reported on an upcoming Boy Scouts camp where the boys would, for dinner, enjoy “chicken fried steak with cream gravy, mashed potatoes, sliced pickles and onions, fruit pudding, iced tea.”
The Omaha World-Herald (NE), August 13, 1929, ran another ad for the Rome Cafeteria, with chicken fried steak for 30 cents.
The San Antonio Express (TX), December 29, 1929, had an ad for The Gunter “Cave,” a new cafeteria in San Antonio, which offered Chicken Fried Steak for 30 cents.
The Household Searchlight Recipe Book (Kansas, 1931), compiled and edited by Ida Migliario, Harriet W. Allard, Zorada Z. Titus, and Irene Westbrook, had a brief recipe for Chicken Fried Steak, which only required being covered with flour, salt and pepper.
The Indianapolis Times (IN), April 1, 1929, had an ad for Wheeler’s Lunch, with all week special of “Delicious Chicken Fried Steak, Pan Gravy, Stringless Beans and Tea Biscuits” for 30 cents. And the Illinois State Register (IL), May 9, 1929, ran an ad for Dewitt’s Café, offering, “Delicious Chicken Fried Steak and French Fries Potatoes” for 50 cents.
Boys Scouts and chicken fried steak! The Abilene Morning Reporter-News (TX), July 28, 1929, reported on an upcoming Boy Scouts camp where the boys would, for dinner, enjoy “chicken fried steak with cream gravy, mashed potatoes, sliced pickles and onions, fruit pudding, iced tea.”
The San Antonio Express (TX), December 29, 1929, had an ad for The Gunter “Cave,” a new cafeteria in San Antonio, which offered Chicken Fried Steak for 30 cents.
The Las Vegas Evening Review (NV), May 8, 1931, had an ad for the Bull Pen Inn, which featured Chicken Fried Steak Dinners in their café. The Cincinnati Post (OH), March 17, 1932, ran an ad for the Coffee Shop, and one of their dinner entrées was Chicken Fried Steak with fresh mushroom sauce. The Times-Picayune (LA), April 20, 1932, had an ad for Maison Blanche which offered a shoppers’ special lunch of Chicken Fried Steak with Cream Gravy for 25 cents.
Cooking classes. The Trenton Sunday-Times (NJ), January 29, 1933, printed an article about courses offered at Oklahoma A.&M. College, including “Bachelor housekeeping,” the unofficial title of their most popular course. This course included lessons on “preparing chicken-fried steak.”
The Palm Beach Post (FL), April 21, 1934, published an ad for Meacham’s which had Chicken Fried Steak for 17 cents. The Albuquerque Tribune (NM), May 22, 1934, ran an ad for the Liberty Café which served “Chicken Fried Steak, Country Style, Potatoes, bread and butter” for 30 cents. And the Arkansas Gazette (AR), October 12, 1934, printed an ad for a Safeway food store. In the “Cooked Foods” section of the advertisement, they offered Chicken Fried Steak at 29 cents a pound.
Another sandwich. The Arkansas Gazette (AR), May 27, 1935, in an ad for the Food Palace, offered a Chicken Fried Steak Sandwich for 10 cents.
Is chicken fried steak "cruel and unusual punishment?" The Boston Herald (MA), June 19, 1935, and other newspapers at this time, reported on a prisoner strike at the Kansas state prison. About 380 prisoners were demanding “better cooked food.” The article noted that their supper that evening was supposed to be “Chicken fried steak, country gravy, boiled potatoes, baked corn, garden vegetables, bread and iced tea.” The menu itself sounds good, but maybe it was prepared poorly, and that was the rationale behind the strike.
The Los Angeles Examiner (CA), May 1, 1936, briefly stated, “We hear so much about chicken-fried steak, but now lamb chops have agreed to be treated in the same manner and here is how it is done.” A recipe was then provided for those lamb chops. Once again, the recipe only asked for flour as a coating for the chicken fried lamb chops and added a mushroom gravy.
The New Orleans Item (LA), August 17, 1936, discussed the A.&G. Sandwich Stands, which have multiple locations, and offered Chicken-Fried Steak sandwiches for 15 cents.
Another recipe. The Jersey Journal (NJ), August 27, 1936, presented a recipe for chicken fried steak, “Use steaks cut from the round, nor more than ½ inch thick, dredge in flour, season with salt and pepper. Fry quickly in hot shortening. Blend flour with far, add water, stirring to prevent lumps, season and pour over steak.” Again, simply flour was used.
The Evening Tribune (CA), June 1, 1939, printed an advertisement for Safeway which had a recipe for Chicken Fried Steak. The ingredients included 2 lbs. Round Steak cut thick, 1 tsp salt, ½ tsp pepper, ¾ cup flour, 2 cups milk, and 5 tbsps shortening. The directions stated, “Pound steak to half original thickness. Dip in seasoned flour; fry quickly in hot fat, turning twice. Remove steak to hot plate and thicken fat with flour. Stir until smooth, add milk to make gravy. Season, serve with steak. Serves 6.”
Chicken fried steak was even available in Alaska! The Daily Alaska Empire (AK), October 21, 1939, noted that The Baranof Hotel served Chicken Fried Steak with Country Gravy.
The Morning Advocate (LA), December 22, 1940, also provided a recipe for Chicken Fried Steak, as well as a variation, “Spanish Steak.” It was made like chicken fried steak except you substituted 2 cups of canned tomatoes for water and cream. Plus, you arranged 5 green pepper rings atop steak when it was done.
The popularity of chicken fried steak! The Boston Traveler (MA), April 22, 1942, reported that experts from the National Restaurant Association, at an annual meeting, compiled a list of Americans' top 10 favorite dishes. The First Place dish was Ham & eggs, country style while Second Place went to Prime ribs of beef, au jus. Third Place was occupied by Chicken-fried steak & country gravy.
And, for now, that's where we''ll end our examination of the origins of Chicken Fried Steak.
Although the first documented reference to "chicken fried steak" appeared in 1914, it's clear from the first recipes for this dish that it was merely a new name for "country fried steak" (which first appeared in 1909) and "fried steak" (which first appeared in the 1820s). Initially, fried steak was only seasoned with salt and pepper, but in 1872, the first recipe using flour on the steak appeared. And it's fascinating that this recipe was in a cookbook published in London! These first recipes for fried steak were essentially the same as the first recipes for chicken fried steak. So, we can say that the first chicken fried steak recipes, just under a different name, extend back at least to 1872.
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Although the first documented reference to "chicken fried steak" appeared in 1914, it's clear from the first recipes for this dish that it was merely a new name for "country fried steak" (which first appeared in 1909) and "fried steak" (which first appeared in the 1820s). Initially, fried steak was only seasoned with salt and pepper, but in 1872, the first recipe using flour on the steak appeared. And it's fascinating that this recipe was in a cookbook published in London! These first recipes for fried steak were essentially the same as the first recipes for chicken fried steak. So, we can say that the first chicken fried steak recipes, just under a different name, extend back at least to 1872.
Although many haters in the 19th and 20th century claimed fried steak was made from lesser cuts of beef, which often were tough and chewy, there were a significant number of recipes calling for more choice cuts, such as tenderloin, sirloin and porterhouse.
In 1913, the first recipe, for Fried Tenderloin Steak, used more than just flour on the steak, dredging it in both egg and flour. And in 1921, the first cookbook provided a recipe where the steak was dipped in a batter of eggs and milk, and then dipped into cracker or bread crumbs. However, during the late 1920s and the 1930s, most of the recipes, from fried steak, country fried steak, and chicken fried steak, only called for flour. It took time for the recipes to evolve, and start making it a norm to batter the steak, to resemble the chicken fried steak you now see at numerous restaurants.
Where have you enjoyed Chicken Fried Steak? Does anyone make this dish at home?
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