2024 Varvaglione 1921 Susumaniello Rosé: A Puglia Prize

Apulia, also known as Puglia, is an Italian region which occupies the "heel" of the Italian "boot," bordering the Adriatic Sea on its east coast. This region is best known for its red wines, especially those made from Primitivo and Negroamaro. However, you can find other interesting red grapes there, although their total acreage may be small. One such grape, of ancient lineage, is Susumaniello. 

The name, "susumaniello," may derive from the term "somarello," which roughly translates as "small donkey." This may refer to the hardiness of the grape, as the donkey can handle a great load, or it may refer to the grape bunches, which some claim resemble an overloaded donkey. DNA analysis indicates the grape is a cross between Garganega and Uva Sogra, and there are some claims that the grape originated in the Dalmatian region of Croatia, although proof of such is largely lacking. However, as it's known Primitivo originated in Dalmatia, it wouldn't be a stretch to consider Susumaniello had a similar journey. 

During the 20th century, Susumaniello fell out of favor, as it became low yielding, and farmers preferred to work with more productive vines, like Primitivo and Negroamaro. However, in time, the low yields of Susumaniello became seen as a strength, indicative of higher quality, by a number of wineries, and the grape was saved from extinction. It's now used as a blending grape, as a single varietal, and in Rosé wines. 

Varvaglione 1921 is a family-owned winery based in Leporano, on the coast of the Ionian Sea, in Puglia. It was established just over 100 years ago, making it one of the oldest wineries in southern Italy, and is currently owned and operated by the fourth generation of the Varvaglione family. The winery focuses on the native grapes of the region, including Primitivo, Negroamaro, Malvasia Nera, Aglianico, Verdeca, Falanghina, Malvasia Bianca and Fiano. They own about 150 hectares of vineyards, and also purchase fruit from low grape growers. They are also certified sustainable. 

I recently received a media sample of the 2024 Varvaglione 1921 Susumaniello Rosé (about $19), which is produced from 100% Susumaniello and has a 13% ABV. The wine is aged in stainless steel, with periodic suspension of the lees. With a vibrant pink color, the nose is alluring with plenty of red fruit aromas and hints of spice. On the palate, it is crisp and dry, with bright red fruit flavors of strawberry, raspberry and cherry, along with subtle spice notes. On the lengthy finish, there's hints of minerality, and it's simply delicious. This would be excellent on its own, although it would also be an excellent food wine. 

Overall, this was an impressive Rosé, perfect for the summer, but which would be great year round. It would make a very good choice for Thanksgiving dinner. And at under $20, this wine is a good value as well.