2004 Librandi Efeso Val di Neto Bianco

Always on the hunt for new and unusual grape varieties, I found the 2004 Librandi Efeso Val di Neto Bianco ($31.99) at Lower Falls Wine Co. It was made from 100% Mantonico. a grape I did not find in Oz Clarke's Enyclopedia of Grapes. So, it definitely had to be a rarer grape.

The Librandi winery is located in Ciro Marina, a small Calabrian town near the Punta Alice promontory. They have been growing grapes for four generations. and been bottling wine since the 1950s. It is a family owned operation, run by Antonio and Nicodemo Librandi. Their vineyards grow eight different grapes including indigenous ones like Gaglioppo and Mantonico and more international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Librandi is especially dedicated to resurrecting old, indigenous grapes that have been dying out.

Mantonico Bianco is a white grape with its origins in ancient Greece that is now grown only in Calabria. There is a Mantonico Nero as well.

The 2004 Librandi Efeso is made from 100% Mantonico Bianco. The grapes are hand harvested. The wine is first fermented in stainless steel and then undergoes malolactic fermentation in both new and used French oak. It is also aged for about eight months in small, oak barrels. Finally, it sees a short time of bottle aging too. It has an alcohol content of 13.5% and only about 1000 cases are produced.

The wine was a vibrant yellow in color with a buttery nose. On the palate though, that buttery aroma came out only as a very subdued flavor. The wine was rich and much crisper than I thought it would be. I had expected a creamier wine but did not find that. It had a very different flavor too, a bit nutty with a touch of spice and maybe some pear notes. This was one of the more unusual white wines I have had but it was very appealing. It had a nice, long finish and went well with the chicken topped with proscuitto & cheese I had for dinner.

As I savored the wine, it revealed plenty of complexity and tinges of other flavors that were difficult to pinpoint. It was somewhat of an elusive wine, where flavors briefly rose to the surface but not long enough for me to identify. They tantalized my palate, making me eager for more. I would definitely recommend this wine and would love to know if anyone else has ever tried this grape. It is certainly a unique wine and I think it will please wine lovers.