The Origins of the Frozen Drumstick & Nutty Buddy

I've long been a fan of the Nutty Buddy, an ice cream cone, commonly filled with vanilla ice cream, where the top is covered in chocolate and nuts. When the ice cream truck showed up in the neighborhood, I might choose a Nutty Buddy. When I was growing up, there was only one kind of Nutty Buddy, but today, there are multiple variations, and they are also sometimes known by different names. 

Recently, I read on Facebook a claim about the alleged invention of the Nutty Buddy. As I did some additional brief searching online, I quickly learned that most sources claim that the Nutty Buddy was invented by the Seymour Ice Cream Company, located in Dorchester, Massachusetts, and that it was named after Charles "Buddy" Seymour, who was the treasurer of the company in the mid-1960s. Many sources also claimed that the term "Drumstick" came after the Nutty Buddy, and referred to the same ice cream treat. Other sources though have alleged there are slight differences between the two items.

However, after I conducted more in-depth research, I learned the truth. First, the existence of the Drumstick predated the Nutty Buddy, by about twenty years. Second, although the Nutty Buddy existed at least as early as 1950, it didn't show up in Massachusetts until the 1960s. Third, the evidence makes it clear that the Nutty Buddy was not invented by the Seymour Ice Cream Company.  

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The Drumstick, usually referred to at the time as the "Frozen Drumstick," was created by I.C. Parker, an advertising or sales manager for the Pangburn Ice Cream & Candy Co. in Fort Worth, Texas. Pangburn was established around 1912, and was a pioneer ice cream factory in Texas, and five years later, they began manufacturing candy as well.

The Manufacturing Confectioner (July 1931) noted that I.C. Parker had received a trademark for "Drumstick," whose use had been claimed since March 11, 1931. The Official Gazette of the U.S. Patent Office (August 1931) also mentioned the "Frozen Drumstick," under #13,379, and that it was "For Ice Cream Product Consisting of an Ice Cream Cone Dipped in Candy Coating, Etc."

What was the Drumstick? The Abilene Daily Reporter (TX), April 13, 1931, mentioned that Pangburn had recently added a novelty feature to their offerings, the “Drumstick.” It was “a chocolate nut sundae in cone form—ice cream center with firm chocolate coat thickly covered with nut particles.” It then noted, “When slipped from its tidy Pangburn paper cover, the ‘drumstick’ looks mightily like a crispy browned chicken leg.” The article continued, “The novelty was introduced a few week ago in Fort Worth and is now on the wholesale ice cream delivery routes in Abilene.” 

The description is basically the same as the Nutty Buddy, so it's easy to understand the ancestry of the Nutty Buddy. 

The first advertisement, pictured above, for the Frozen Drumstick appeared in the Abilene Daily Reporter (TX), April 16, 1931. It noted that it was a "Chocolate Nut Sundae" and sold for 5 cents. Keep the picture in your mind as when ads for the Nutty Buddy arise, twenty years later, its picture is basically the same.    

Although the Frozen Drumstick began in Texas, only four months later, it started to appear in other states, starting with California. The News-Pilot (CA), August 7, 1931, published an ad for "Gibson’s Frozen Drumstick" which was “An Ice Cream Cone filled with Gibson’s Ice Cream and topped with nuts." It was also stated that it was “The latest and most delicious 5c seller on the market.”  The next day, another ad in the News-Pilot (CA), August 8, 1931, further described Gibson’s Frozen Drumstick as “An Ice Cream Cone filled with Gibson’s Ice Cream, Dipped in Chocolate, and topped with nuts.” 

The Contra Costa Times (CA), September 17, 1931, presented an ad for MacMarr Stores, which mentioned Frozen Drumsticks, described as “The newest ice cream confection—a hand rolled chocolate cone, heaping full of Dairyland Ice Cream, dipped in chocolate and crushed peanuts. Looks just like a chicken or turkey leg, and it costs only 5c.”

During the rest of the 1930s, there were ads mentioning the Frozen Drumstick in Alabama, Colorado, Idaho, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky, Maryland, Michigan, Missouri, Montana, Nebraska, New Mexico, North Carolina, Ohio, Oklahoma, Oregon, Pennsylvania, South Carolina, Washington, Wisconsin, and Wyoming. Interestingly, there weren't any references in any of the New England states. In fact, there wasn't a mention of the Frozen Drumstick in Massachusetts for at least 50 years.

The Santa Ana Daily Register (CA), February 9, 1939, published an ad for Sontag Drug Stores, noting that the Frozen Drumstick was “An ice cream nut sundae in a cone…ice cream, chocolate, nuts and cake! Something entirely new in a frozen confection.” This is the only ad to mention it contained cake, although other ads sometimes mentioned it was served in a "cake cone."

The Tri-Country Forum (MN), March 7, 1940, had an ad for Land O’Lakes Frozen Drumsticks, noting it was “A sugar cake cone cooked in chocolate—filled with Ice Cream—covered with chocolate and rolled in toasted nuts.”

The Ice Cream Field (May 1950), posted an ad for the Frozen Drumstick, with a picture of the drumstick. 

The Nutty Buddy finally appeared, nearly 20 years after the Frozen Drumstick! The Ice Cream Field, October 1950, published an ad for Flare-Tops, which sold Cake Cones and Cake Cups, and had 14 bakeries across the country, including the Eastern Baking Co., in Chelsea, MA, and the Maryland Baking Co. in Baltimore, MD. One of their products was the “Nutty-Buddy,” pictured above, looking exactly like a Frozen Drumstick. It appears this was just a different name for the Drumstick. 

The Statesman Journal (OR), April 6, 1951, had an ad for Piggly Wiggly, offering a “Nutty Buddy Ice Cream Cone” for 10 cents.

The Oregon Daily Journal (OR), May 18, 1951, published the above ad for Arctic Ice Cream, noting the Nutty Buddy, “A Chocolate Nut Sundae.” It comes “In an old Fashioned Honey Roll Sugar Cone” which is “Filled with Arctic Ice Cream Chocolate Coated Rolled in Nuts.” And the picture once again resembles those of the Frozen Drumstick.  

The Lewistown Daily New (Montana), August 2, 1951, had an ad for the Lewistown Market which stocked “Nutty Buddies.”

The Free-Lance Star (VA), October 17, 1951, had an almost exact ad to the previous Arctic Ice Cream ad in Oregon. 

The Town Talk (LA), April 25, 1952, published the above ad for a new store, Cree-Mee, which offered a "Nutty Buddy,” described as "A chocolate nut sundae in a crisp honey roll sugar cone." During the rest of the 1950s, other ads for the Nutty Buddy appeared in Alaska, Illinois, Louisiana, Maryland, Minnesota, Missouri, Montana, Nebraska, New York, North Carolina, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Texas, and Virginia. No ads for the Nutty Buddy appeared in Massachusetts during the 1950s.

On June 27, 1958, the Maryland Baking Company, of Baltimore, MD, filed with the U.S. Patent Office for the "Nutty Buddy, for Ice Cream Cones." They noted that the first use of the term was on or about October 6, 1949. This could not have occurred if the Seymour Ice Cream Company had actually invented the Nutty Buddy.

When did the Nutty Buddy first appear in Massachusetts? Not until 1962!

The North Adams Transcript, June 14, 1962, published an ad for Sealtest Ice Cream and their “Sealtest Nutty Buddy.” The ad noted, “All the goodness of a chocolate nut sundae in a crisp honey roll cone!”  

There was another ad in The Republican, October 28, 1965, for Cumberland Farms. It offered a 6-pack of Nutty Buddy, on sale for only 49 cents, 10 cents less than its regular price of 59 cents. There would be a number of additional Cumberland ads during the later 1960s mentioning the Nutty Buddy. 

There weren't any articles or advertisements during the 1960s which connected Seymour Ice Cream Company and the Nutty Buddy. Their alleged invention of this ice cream treat appears to be merely a myth.

The blog of the Dorchester Historical Society had some interesting information about this issue, including a statement by Paul Samuelian, whose family started Seymour Ice Cream. Paul claimed "Some where in the 1960’s the “Nutty Buddy” was born named after Buddy Seymour who was my Great Uncle Mike’s son." Clearly this claim is false as the Nutty Buddy has been around since at least 1950. And there is no other evidence that indicates Seymour invented it.  

However, the blog also had a line which might be more indicative of the truth. It stated, "The Seymours Ice Cream Company had the sole franchise in New England to manufacture the Nutty Buddy product from the Sweetheart Cup Company." This indicates Seymour didn't invent the Nutty Buddy but instead received a franchise from another company to produce them in New England. If Seymour had invented it, they would have been the ones offering franchises to other companies. This certainly makes much more sense when we consider the history of the Nutty Buddy. 

In addition, I previously mentioned that the Maryland Baking Company had filed with the U.S. Patent Office for the Nutty Buddy. The Maryland Baking Company was connected to the Sweetheart Cup Company, so they obviously could have sold franchises to ice cream companies to produce the Nutty Buddy. And that is most likely what happened with the Seymour Ice Cream Company. They did not invent the Nutty Buddy.

Do you enjoy the Nutty Buddy?

Bodegas 501 Gades Amontillado Viejisimo VORS Sherry: The Final Bottles

Bodegas 501 no longer exists! The winery owed a significant amount of back taxes, over 16 Million Euros, and the company was eventually seized and put up for auction. So, a Sherry like that pictured above, will no longer be produced. It's now a dwindling supply and if you want to obtain their Sherries, you should act now.

The origins of Bodegas 501 extend back to 1783, making it one of the oldest wineries in Spain, when Pascual Moreno Mora founded a winery in the town of El Puerto de Santa Maria. In 1875, King Alfonso XII granted the winery the title of Supplier of the Royal Household, which provided them fame, especially for their brandies. In 1941, the firm Carlos y Javier de Terry, S.L. was established. Around 1993, Pedro Torres and his partners purchased the winery, renaming it Bodegas 501 del Puerto, S.A. Since then, the winery made agreements with other companies, including the Osborne Group. 

Since 2016, Bodegas 501 owed taxes over 16 Million Euros, although they had already stopped producing wines, only continuing to make brandies. There were rumors that the taxes were due to alleged fraud in the payment of their taxes. The company was seized and their assets were auctioned off during the summer of 2021.  

The Bodegas 501 Gades Amontillado Viejisimo VORS Sherry (about $50-$65) is an Amontillado, a type of sherry which undergoes both biological and oxidative aging. They are commonly a light amber color, dry and nutty, with herbal and spice aspects. This is also a VORS Sherry, which refers to its aging category, and means "Vinum Optimum Rare Signatum" (Wine Selected as Optimal and Exceptional). The wine must be of an average age of at least 30 years, and undergo rigorous testing to ensure its high quality. 

However, this wine was sourced from a solera of 8 botas, Sherry barrels, each which held about 132 gallons each. The exact age of these botas was unknown so the average age of the sherry could actually be much longer than 30 years. Even if that age was known though, there isn't a designation higher than VORS. I've previously had a VORS Sherry, which had an average age of over 100 years, but on the label, it can only be said to be at least 30 years old.  

This Amontillado possessed a light amber color, with an alluring aroma. On the palate, it was dry and complex, with harmonious flavors of salted nuts, caramel, mild spices, and a touch of tobacco. It also possessed a lengthy and intriguing finish, providing much pleasure. As I slowly sipped the wine over the course of the evening, the wine evolved in the glass, with other complex flavors seem to peek out at times, making this a wine to savor slowly over time, relishing its fascinating profile. A superb sherry, which I would highly recommend.  

I previously purchased this sherry at Bin Ends in Needham, although it wasn't currently available there the last few times I've been there. 

The History of Cashew Chicken & Springfield-Style Cashew Chicken

About a week ago, the Fodor's Travel website posted an article, The Ozark Town Where Cashew Chicken Was Invented by Erika Ebsworth-Goold (August 12, 2024). The article stated, "Springfield also has an unexpected culinary claim to fame. It’s the birthplace of a beloved takeout classic: cashew chicken." This referred to Springfield, Missouri, and the article also noted, "It turns out the creation was first cooked up more than six decades ago at a Springfield tea house." This was the tale of David Leong, a Chinese immigrant, who owned Leong's Tea House, which opened in 1963. 

The problem is that this story is misleading, and doesn't accurately reflect the truth about the invention of cashew chicken. David Leong plays an important role in the history of cashew chicken, but it requires further explanation.

First, and importantly, cashew chicken is a traditional Chinese dish, sometimes referred to as 腰果鸡丁, (Yāoguǒ jī). To the Chinese, cashews resemble the golden ingots that once were used as a form of currency, so they are consumed during the Chinese New Year, hoping for prosperity for the New Year. However, the traditonal dish is commonly stir-fried in a wok, using small pieces of chicken, with vegetables and roasted cashews, in a light sauce. David Leong clearly didn't invent this dish. So, what did he invent?

The earliest reference I found in the U.S. for "cashew chicken" was in the Chula Vista Star (CA), May 28, 1948. The above advertisement indicated that Dock's served American and Chinese cuisine, and one of their dishes included “Cashew Chicken" for $1.50. 

A few years later, the first recipe appeared in an ad in The Independent, January 25, 1951. The Food Bowl Market offered a recipe for “Chicken-Cashew Nut.” 

However, apparently not all chicken cashew dishes had a Chinese origin. For example, The Patriot News (PA), October 7, 1951, published an article on amateur poultry cooks in Pennsylvania It stated, “Pennsylvania Dutch dishes stopped the poultry show last week in Harrisburg as spectators gazed in wonderment while 28 farm women and two men put together ingredients for tempting poultry and egg dishes.” One of those dishes included “chicken cashew.”

Another example, with a recipe, was included in the Buffalo News (NY), December 11, 1951. There was clearly no Chinese influence in this recipe.

Another non-Chinese influenced recipe was found in The Grand Island Independent (NE), August 21, 1952. This recipe was also printed in newspapers in California, Florida and Wisconsin. 

In the Complete Chicken Cookery (1953) by Marian Tracy, there was another recipe, for a dish that wasn't Chinese inspired.  

The Merced Sun-Star (CA), March 3, 1955, published an advertisement for The Grange Company, noting “Better Feed for California Chickens.” The ad also mentioned, “Sometime in the last 4,000 years a Chinese genius sampled his latest culinary experiment and delightedly announced “This is it!” A recipe for "Chicken with Pineapple and Cashew Nuts." This is the first recipe where the chicken was fried in a batter, and coated with crushed cashew nuts. The recipe is also very different from the traditional Chinese version. 

The fact the chicken in this recipe was fried in a batter is important as over 11 years later, David Leong would become famous for frying his chicken pieces in his cashew chicken dish. It doesn't seem likely that David would have seen this recipe as he was living in Missouri at the time, and probably wouldn't have been reading California newspapers. 

As for Chinese versions of cashew chicken, the Ogden Standard-Examiner (UT), March 8, 1956, briefly mentioned Yu Tou Guy Ding (diced chicken with cashew nuts). In the Daily Palo Alto Times (CA), September 24, 1956, there was an ad from Ming's, a Cantonese restaurant. It mentioned a Typical Family Dinner for Four, and one of the dishes was “Cashew Chicken.” The Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), February 23, 1957, also had a restaurant ad, for Mok Larn Chein restaurant, with a large menu and one of the items was “Cashew nut chicken” for $1.50. 

The Chicago Tribune (IL), November 18, 1957, published a recipe for Chicken Cashew, a "$5 Favorite Recipe" from one of their readers. This recipe obviously was inspired by Chinese recipes. 

The Stockton Evening and Sunday Record (CA), May 9, 1958, ran an ad for Minnie’s, which offered Chinese-American dishes, including “Cashew Chicken Mandarin.” The Journal Herald (OH), September 26, 1958, in a discussion of Chinese restaurants in San Francisco, briefly mentioned "cashew chicken." 

More details came in The Peninsula Times Tribune (CA), February 25, 1959. The newspaper provide a recipe for a Cantonese dish, cashew chicken, which came from Ming restaurant's chef Mee Wah Jung. The article also noted, “The cashew chicken (‘yew dow gai kow’) is cubes of boned chicken, marinated and toss-cooked with crisp cashews from India, onions and bamboo shoots.” This was basically a more traditional version of the dish. 

The Independent (CA), March 27, 1959, had an ad for New China Tea Garden, offering “Cashew Nut Chicken Chow Yuke” for $1.55. The Daily Illini (IL), June 3, 1959, also had an ad for the new Hong Kong Restaurant, with a specialty of Cashew Chicken. The Anaheim Gazette (CA), February 12, 1960, mentioned the Crow’s Restaurant in Long Beach, a Chinese-American restaurant, which served “Cashew Nut Chicken.” During the next couple years, cashew chicken would be mentioned in a number of other ads for Chinese-American restaurants, and there would be other traditional recipes provided as well.  

The Douglas County Gazette (NE), October 12, 1962, offered an interesting recipe variation called "Cashew Chicken Casserole."

Eight Immortal Flavors (1963), a Chinese cookbook, by Johnny Kan & Charles L. Leong, contained a recipe for "Cashew Chicken (Yew Dow Gai Kow)," which was similar to their Walnut Chicken recipe, but with cashews instead of walnuts. This was again, a very traditional recipe. 

And it's also in 1963, that the tale of a new version of Cashew Chicken began, although the origins of that tale extend back over twenty years. Many sources claim that David Leong invented cashew chicken in 1963, but in actuality, he only invented a fried variation of it. And the actual year of that invention is in question.  

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Around 1940, David Leong, a native of China, immigrated to the United States and soon became a naturalized citizen. During World War II, he was drafted and served during the invasion of Normandy. After the war, David started working in restaurants on the East Coast and in the South, including in New Orleans, Florida, and New York. 

In 1955, David was working at a Chinese restaurant in Florida. There are two different versions of what happened next, although the end result was the same. The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), May 1, 1977, stated that Dr. John L.K. Tsang, a physician in Springfield, Missouri, desired Chinese cuisine in Springfield so he advertised in a Chinese newspaper nationwide. David Leong read the advertisement and persuaded Gee, his brother, to move with him to Springfield, to work in a restaurant and serve Chinese cuisine.

However, six years later, the Springfield Leader and Press (MO), September 21, 1983, provided a different version of this event.  The article claimed that in 1955, Dr. Tsang visited Pensacola, Florida and patronized the restaurant where David worked. Dr. Tsang was so impressed with the food that he convinced David, and his brother, to return to Springfield with him and work in a restaurant there. Whichever version is true, the end result was the same, with David and Gee Leong moving to Missouri to work in a restaurant preparing Chinese cuisine.

The Springfield News-Leader (MO), August 24, 1955, reported that the Lotus Garden restaurant would open that week, offering Chinese and American cuisine. The restaurant was owned by Dr. Tsang, who was said to have employed “a Chinese born-chef who served with the U.S. Army in combat action on the European fronts during World War II.” Neither David Leong or his brother Gee were mentioned by name in the article, although this would be the first restaurant in Springfield they worked in.

The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), January 14, 1956, presented an ad for Lotus Garden, which listed some of their Chinese dishes, from egg rolls to chicken chow mein. 

It seems Dr. Tsang soon after sold the restaurant to Win Yin Leong, who didn't seem related to David Leong. David continued to work at the Lotus Gardens into 1957, although he would move to another restaurant early in 1958.  

The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), April 14, 1958, presented the above advertisement for The Grove, a supper club, where the food was “authentically prepared by David Leong.” David appears to have been the primary chef rather than his brother Gee, as Gee was not mentioned in connection with either Lotus Garden or The Grove. 

A terrible accident! The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), August 7, 1960, reported that a vehicle, a 1960 Pontiac, struck The Grove restaurant. The damage was significant, creating an 8 foot wide and 5 foot high hole in one of the restaurant walls and also causing a minor gas explosion. The vehicle also pinned two cooks, David Leong, age 39, and Yuen Leong, age 28 (this might actually be Gee), to a wall. Both of them sustained second and third degree burns and were taken to the hospital, although they were quickly treated and then released, so the injuries may not have been as significant as they seemed. The vehicle also caused about $10,000 in property damages, which included about $2,000 in dishes. 

A few years later, David and Gee decided to establish their own restaurant. The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), May 12, 1963, reported that David and Gee had plans in the works to open a new Chinese-American restaurant in Springfield. The newspaper noted, “Two Chinese brothers, both cooks, and both already well-known in the Ozarks and nationwide for their original Chinese dishes, will be the owners and operators of the establishment.”

The new restaurant, Leong's Tea House was supposed to open in mid-November, 1963, but an explosion changed those plans. The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), November 18, 1963, reported that someone placed about 10 sticks of dynamite next to a wall of the soon-to-open restaurant. The above photograph shows some of the results of the explosion. The Springfield News-Leader (MO), November 19, 1963, added more information. The property damages were estimated at $2000-$2500, and the building owner, Lee McLean, offered a $1500 reward for information on the bombers. The police believed the dynamite was placed or thrown, maybe in a metal container, at the base of a 8-foot square plastic window. The Leongs had not received any prior threats, and the police didn't have any suspects. Curiously, the two 75-pound stone lions, which were in the front of the restaurant, had also been stolen that same night.  

Arrests made! The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), December 5, 1963, stated that three men had been arrested for “grand stealing” for the theft of the 2 stone lions. The men included Walter Lewis Phillips., III (age 23), Dennis Earl Nelson (age 20), and Ralph Warren Crover (age 37). The three men, pictured above, are posing with the stone lions and certainly don’t look remorseful. 

More information came from the Springfield News-Leader (MO), December 5, 1963. Dennis, a delivery man, and Walter, who designed costume jewelry, admitted to stealing the stone lions. The police then followed up and arrested Ralph, a cosmetologist. However, results of lie detector tests cleared them of any connection to the bombing. It seemed that the theft was merely a strange coincidence. The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), January 13, 1964, then reported that the three defendants pled guilty to new charges of malicious destruction of property and were fined $25 plus costs. 

It didn't appear that the identify of the bomber or bombers was ever solved, and there weren't any other similar incidents. 

The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), December 8, 1963, mentioned that Leong’s Tea House had just opened and the above photo shows the exterior of the restaurant.

The Springfield News-Leader (MO), January 1, 1964, printed the first advertisement for Leong’s Tea House, but it didn't mention cashew chicken. Another ad in the Springfield Leader and Press (MO), January 5, 1964, mentioned that they served Special Sunday dinners including Southern Fried Chicken, and also offered “Delicious Chinese Foods.” Additional advertisements in 1964 for the restaurant continued to mention Southern Fried Chicken, and only a single Chinese dish: "Chow Steaks, Kew." That dish was described as "Sliced Beef Tenderloin With Chinese Vegetables and Pea Pod Mushrooms."

The first mention of cashew chicken at the restaurant was in July 1965, about a year and a half after its opening. The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), July 13, 1965, mentioned that a wedding party was held at Leong’s and they had a menu of cashew chicken and rice. Did David serve cashew chicken when his restaurant first opened in December 1963? And if he did, was it the traditional version? When did David first serve his own variation, where the chicken was battered and fried? It doesn't appear there is any documentary evidence to answer all of these questions. 

There is some information that Leong's Tea House might not have done well at the start, as the populace wasn't too willing to embrace Chinese cuisine. Allegedly, that is when David decided to create some Chinese dishes that appealed more to American tastes. Their Southern Fried Chicken might have been a big seller, so David may have then decided to alter the traditional cashew chicken dish and fried the chicken rather than stir-fry it. So, David's version of cashew chicken might not have been invented until 1964, 1965, or even later. 

The next mention of cashew chicken wouldn't be for another year, when the Springfield Leader and Press (MO), July 28, 1966, noted that another wedding party had a luncheon at Leong and their menu included cashew chicken. The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), September 9, 1966, also mentioned a luncheon meeting with a menu including “cashew chicken.” The Polk County Times (MO), February 9, 1967, had a similar mention. None of these mentions indicated that the cashew chicken was of the fried chicken variation. 

The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), June 5, 1967, presented an ad for The Grove restaurant which mentioned that one of their Chinese dinners included “Cashew Chicken, Egg Foo Young, Steamed Rice” for $1.95. Was this the traditional dish, or had The Grove adopted David's fried chicken variation? Unfortunately, the ad doesn't provide an answer.

Another Springfield restaurant serving cashew chicken! The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), October 31, 1971, noted that the House of Cheong, a Chinese American Restaurant, had recently opened by Cheong Leong, who had 18 years of experiences in the Chinese restaurant business. Cashew chicken was one of their offerings, although again we don't know whether this was the traditional dish or not. 

Leong's Tea House and David Leong received much attention in a lengthy newspaper article in May 1977, about 13 1/2 years after the restaurant's opening. The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), May 1, 1977, began by explaining that Springfield, Missouri had a population of about 146,000, and “has perhaps become the Chinese restaurant capital of the Midwest.” The article also added, “we’re guessing Springfield has more Chinese food outlets per capita” than other major cities.  

The article then stated, “What may surprise many is that the cashew chicken dish served in nearly all of these restaurants originated in Springfield.” The article also explained the two types of cashes chicken. “True, it has a real Chinese counterpart, but the crusty chicken bits, served with rice and oyster sauce so familiar to Springfield diners is David Leong’s version of a steamed chicken dish served in Hong Kong.” David felt that “Americans won’t eat steamed fish or chicken” so he decided to fry it instead in his dish. The exact date of that invention wasn't specified.  

The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), January 3, 1979, provided an article about Gee Leong, and included a recipe for Crispy Cashew Chicken, which would probably be similar to the dish they served at their restaurant. 

The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), September 21, 1983, presented some confusing information. It began with, “About two decades ago, believe it or not, there was no cashew chicken. Not in Springfield. Not even in China.” This was clearly untrue, and the article even contradicted itself, stating, “And knowing the American palate to be fond of fried foods, Leong took a Cantonese steamed chicken dish and adapted it a bit. He dipped the boneless chicken chunks in a tempura-style batter, fried them, covered them with oyster sauce, chopped green onions and cashews, and served them on a bed of rice.” That statement indicated cashew chicken was a Cantonese dish, which David put his on spin on. 

David's variation acquired its own identity. The Columbia Daily Tribune (MO), February 28, 1984, provided the first mention of “Springfield-Style Cashew Chicken,” which was an homage to David Leong. Over time, that name would spread across the country, so everyone understood what Springfield-Style meant. 

The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), April 19, 1989, mentioned that there were about 350 restaurants in Springfield, considering all of the various cuisines, and that about 53 of those restaurants offered cashew chicken. The Daily Journal (MA), May 1, 1990, noted that Springfield had acquired the unofficial nickname of “Cashew Chicken Capital of the Midwest.” The article also noted that a local newspaper columnist had done some calculations, estimating that Springfield restaurants served at least  6697-8554 dishes of cashew chicken each day, averaging 2.4 -3.1 million a year. The article continued,  “Chefs here dip the chicken in batter, deep-fat fry it, smother it with a thick brown sauce made from chicken stock and soy sauce, add cashews and a few bits of green onion and serve the concoction beside a bed of fried rice.”

David Leong may not have invented cashew chicken but his fried variation has achieved its own element of immortality, becoming extremely popular and spreading across the country. David's variation has existed for about 60 years and its popularity has probably never been greater. It's best to refer to his creation as “Springfield-Style Cashew Chicken,” to differentiate it from the classic version. 

Do you prefer the traditional Cashew Chicken or the newer Springfield-style Cashew Chicken?

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) Prezza, celebrates the 114th Fisherman’s Feast by offering specials, available only from Tuesday, August 6th through Sunday, August 18th.

The Fisherman’s Feast Special menu includes:
● Patriot Oysters with Cucumber Mignonette and Cocktail Sauce
● Fried Clams with Lemon Caper Aioli
● Scallop Crudo with Blood Orange, Fennel, Citrus Vinaigrette, and Calabrian Chiles
● White Anchovy Crostini with Garlic, Wine, Cherry Tomatoes, Olive Tapenade
● Octopus Carpacio, Salsa Verda, Calabrian Chiles, Baby Arugula, Lemon
● Grilled Alaskan King Crab Legs, Scampi Butter, Calabrian Chiles
● Creamed Corn Tart, Butter Lobster, Frisee Salad

Available a la cart, Prezza’s special menu features seven seafood options, allowing customers to do a complete feast with all seven dishes or pick and choose their favorites.

2) Swingers – the international global entertainment brand that fuses the quintessential British pastime of “crazy golf” with street food and cocktails in premium, immersive and theatrical locations – is expanding to Boston, slated for the fall of 2025. For its fourth stateside destination, Swingers will team up with the Tavistock Restaurant Collection, the culinary group behind Abe & Louie’s and Atlantic Fish Co. on Boylston Street as well as Joe’s on Newbury on Newbury Street.

Tavistock Restaurant Collection – owners of the Back Bay property at 777 Boylston Street that Swingers will call its local clubhouse – has entered a brand collaboration that will unite two industry names in creating a unique addition to Boston’s adult social scene. A hub for fun and fine dining, the venue is based around an immersive 1920s English country golf club design with a collection of quirky and fun mini golf courses, several cocktail bars, elevated street food, and the brand’s third “Swingers Carnival,” an old-fashioned arcade feature.

“The Swingers brand is hitting a hole-in-one with their concept and we’re excited to be joining forces in expanding their ever-growing US footprint here in Boston,” said Greg Walker, Managing Director of Tavistock Restaurant Collection. “Abe & Louie’s and Atlantic Fish Co. are synonymous with ‘Boston’ and we’re grateful for the opportunity to infuse some local flavor into the celebrated Swingers brand.”

“Opening a Swingers in Boston has been a long-held ambition for us, and we knew the Back Bay would be the perfect neighborhood for our uniquely premium and fun concept,” said Matt Grech-Smith, Co-Founder & Co-CEO of Competitive Socialising, the company behind Swingers. “We are delighted to partner with Tavistock Restaurant Collection to become part of Boston’s thriving social scene.”

Hummingbird Muffins: Some History & Lulu's Bakery

While perusing the offerings at Lulu's Bakery & Pantry in Salem (one of my favorite bakeries), I saw a small sign stating "Hummingbird Muffins." That's the first time I've seen them at the bakery. I was unfamiliar with the term but the sign stated the muffins were made with pecans, bananas, pineapple and coconut. That greatly appealed to me so I bought a few of the muffins to take home. 

When I got home, I also did some online searching, to learn more about "Hummingbird Muffins," and the results were quite intriguing. The Hummingbird Cake originated on Jamaica, where it was caused the Doctor Bird Cake. The Doctor Bird, a nickname for the swallow-tail hummingbird, is endemic to Jamaica and is also their National Bird. Why it's called the Doctor Bird is unknown. In addition, why the cake was called Doctor Bird Cake is also unknown. 

Around 1968, the Jamaica Tourist Board exported the recipe for Doctor Bird Cake to the United States, and it soon became popular, especially in the South. Basically, it's a banana-pineapple spice cake, and the more modern recipes commonly top it with a cream cheese frosting although the original recipes did not call for any type of frosting. 

The first printed recipe I found in the newspapers for Doctor Bird Cake was in The News (NJ), March 19, 1969. It was referred to as a Banana-Pineapple Cake, and noted the recipe was named after a hummingbird in Jamaica. It did not include any type of frosting. This same recipe would be repeated in numerous newspapers over the next 15 years, and beyond, including in North Carolina, Mississippi, Missouri, South Carolina, Illinois, Pennsylvania, Ohio, NY, Vermont, Texas, and Alabama. This can be seen as the traditional recipe for this cake.

The first appearance of the term "Hummingbird Cake" was in an advertisement in 1972, only three years after the first appearance of "Doctor Bird Cake." Miss Hulling's mentioned that their bakery offered "Hummingbird Cake" for $2.85. With all the multiple mentions of Doctor Bird Cake at this period, it's clear that "Hummingbird Cake" had been adopted by some people although the reason for the name change is unclear. Maybe they felt "hummingbird" sounded more appealing than "doctor bird."

The Star-Herald (MS), June 1, 1972, published the above recipe for Hummingbird Cake, which contained the first significant differences in the traditional recipe. First, this recipe added a 1/2 cup of pecans. A number of later recipes would also call for pecans, or walnuts. Second, this recipe was the first to include a glaze to top the cake. The glaze was made from confectioners sugar, oleo, and pineapple or orange juice.

The Advocate Messenger (KY), December 22, 1974, then offered the first recipe with a cream cheese frosting. This would eventually become the norm, even though the original recipe didn't call for any type of frosting at all.  

The Herald (SC), July 30, 1975, provided a slightly different recipe for Doctor Bird Cake, with a main difference of adding a cup of chopped nuts. Again, there was no frosting on the cake. It's interesting that the recipes for "Hummingbird Cake" were the first to alter the traditional recipe. 

The Orlando Sentinel (FL), November 8, 1975, also provide a variation of the Doctor Bird Cake recipe, adding chopped pecans as well as 1/2 cup of candied cherries. 

Frosting appears! The Times-News (ID), April 26, 1976, provided a usual recipe for Doctor Bird Cake, except it added information for a cream cheese icing. However, into the early 1980s, other Doctor Bird recipes in other newspapers didn't include the use of a frosting. It took time for the frosting to be more commonly adopted by others. 

The Kingsport Times (TN), January 23, 1978, had a recipe with a Glaze for Doctor Bird Cake, made from pineapple juice, melted butter and confectioner's sugar. 

As for "Hummingbird Muffins," one of the first mentions was in the Asheville Citizen-Times, October 1, 1987. In a review of a restaurant and bakery, there was a mention of hummingbird muffins, made with banana, pineapple and walnuts. 

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As for Lulu's Hummingbird Muffins, their addition of coconut is not traditional, however it's a natural pairing for pineapple and banana. The muffin seemed heavy but that's not a negative, especially as it was quite moist, especially with the addition of the pineapple. It was delicious, with a nice blend of fruits and spices, and the added texture and taste of the pecans. The muffin was sweet, but not overly so, and the flavors were well balanced. I greatly enjoyed the muffins, and would definitely buy them again at Lulu's Bakery. Highly recommended!

And if you visit Lulu's Bakery, you also have to get some of their superb Whoopie Pies! 

All About Baijiu

"I think if we drink enough Moutai we can solve anything.”
--Henry Kissinger (Moutai is a famous brand of Baijiu)

Baijiu, a distilled spirit that originated in China, seems to me to be the Durian fruit of the spirits world. The infamous Durian fruit, native to Southeast Asia, has a reputation for possessing one of the most foul odors you will ever smell, however, there are plenty of people, especially in Southeast Asia, who love the taste, and even the smell, of Durian, often considering it to be the "king of fruits."

Baijiu too has a reputation with many people of having a foul smell and taste, reminiscent of stinky cheese, gasoline, and even sweaty socks. However, it is also the most popular spirit in the world, due primarily to its massive consumption within China. It is an integral part of Chinese culture yet its popularity outside China has problems, mainly because a significant number of people believe it has a horrendous taste. Like Durian, Baijiu isn't properly appreciated outside of Asia.

In addition, many Americans know very little, if anything, about Baijiu. Hopefully that will soon start to change. Baijiu can now be found in a growing number of restaurants and bars, and during the last year, a number of media outlets have written basic articles about Baijiu. It's certainly a niche beverage in the U.S. but it's fascinating and you'll find the taste often isn't quite what you expect. There is good reason why Baijiu deserves greater recognition in the U.S.

I've currently written 16 article about Baijiu, trying to provide Americans with more information about this intriguing and delicious spirit. You will find it difficult to find more than a handful of blogs that have this many articles about Baijiu. I felt it would be very helpful to my readers to compile the links to these posts in a single place. This post will be that repository, and as such will be constantly updated when I write another article about Baijiu. The posts will be listed in chronological order, from oldest to newest.

All About Baijiu 
Baijiu: The Durian Fruit Of The Spirits World (Part 1)
Baijiu: Its Unique Production Process (Part 2)
Baijiu: Drinking Etiquette & Some Reviews (Part 3)
Baijiu: Cocktails, Boston & World Baijiu Day (Part 4)
Baijiu: Food Pairings (Part 5)
Vinn Bajiu: Made in Portland
Baijiu: The Essential Guide To Chinese Spirits by Derek Sandhaus
World Baijiu Day: August 9
Taizi Baijiu: A New Zealand Treasure
Historical Tidbits About Baijiu, The World's Most Popular Spirit (Part 1)
Historical Tidbits About Baijiu, The World's Most Popular Spirit (Part 2)

Rant: Stop Drink Hate

Sumiao Hunan Kitchen: World Baijiu Day & Dine Out Boston

Luzhou Laojiao: Mainstreaming Baijiu With Cocktails

Baijiu Pop-Ups at Backbar: Learn About This Fascinating Chinese Spirit

A Baijiu Class with Derek Sandhaus

2016 Cara Nord Trepat: A Delicious Mountain Wine

When I'm wine shopping, I'm always on the look out to experience new grapes, new wine regions, new styles, and more. There's so much to explore in the wine world and I want to be a vinous adventurer. So, when I was recently at Bin Ends in Needham, I found the 2016 Cara Nord Trepat ($16.80), a Spanish red wine produced from Trepat, an indigenous grape. My previous experience with Trepat is extremely limited, having enjoyed it only once as the major component of a Cava Rosé. So, I wanted to experience Trepat for the first time in a red wine. 

The Cara Nord Celler, which was founded by three friends/winemakers, is located in the Denomination of Origin Conca de Barberà, in central Catalonia in the north of the Tarragona Province. "Cara Nord," which translates as "North Face," reflects the fact that their vineyards are located on the north face of the Sierra des Prades Mountains, at an altitude of about 800 meters. The vineyards are exposed to intense climatic conditions, with harsh winters and short summers. It's certainly a challenging area for vineyards. 

 

Historically, the Conca de Barberà was known for its white wines, but that has changed, and now the region primarily produces red wines, especially from Trepat, an indigenous grape. In general, Trepat produces wines that are light, fruity, and slightly acidic. Cara Nord practices sustainable agriculture, and "prioritizes the conservation and biodiversity of the forests that surround the vines, enabling an integrated and sustainable organic approach." Their wine making philosophy is also minimal intervention. 

The 2016 Cara Nord Trepat was fermented in a stainless steel tank, and then aged for an additional ten months in the tank, seeing no oak aging. With a 12.5% ABV, the wine is a dark red, almost purple color, with a pleasant nose of red fruits and the hint of herbs. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied and complex, with plenty of flavors of cherry, strawberry and ripe plum, with herbal accents and subtle earthy notes. A moderately long and satisfying finish. Interesting and delicious, indicative of the potential of Trepat. This would be an excellent wine with grilled meats or even just pizza. Highly recommended. 

Have you tasted a Trepat wine before?

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) John Gauntner, the famed Sake expert and Sake Dendoushi ("Evangelist"), will be holding his Sake Professional Course LIVE in the U.S. for the first time in four years. From Monday, October 28 to Wednesday, October 30, John will hold the 33rd North American running of the Sake Professional Course at the Brooklyn Kura in Industry City in Brooklyn, New York, just a short train ride from Manhattan. 

The content of this intensive Sake course will be identical to that of the Sake Professional Course held each January in Japan. The course is recognized by the Sake Education Council, and those that complete it will be qualified to take the exam for Certified Sake Professional, which will be offered on the evening of the last day of the course. 

The course will also of include a tour of the just-re-opened Brooklyn Kura, a Sake brewery in Brooklyn, within which John will conduct the seminar. Not only will you learn and taste about Sake, John will conduct the course in an actual Sake brewery. The course is geared toward industry professionals wishing to expand their horizons in a thorough manner into the world of Sake, and will therefore be somewhat technical in nature, and admittedly somewhat intense. It is likely more than the average consumer needs but the course is open to anyone with an interest in Sake and will certainly be enjoyable. 

The course lectures and tasting will begin with the utter basics, and will thoroughly progress through and cover everything related to Sake. There will be an emphasis on empirical experience, with plenty of exposure to a wide range of Sake in the tasting sessions throughout the three days. Each of the three days will provide the environment for a focused, intense and concerted training period.

The goal of this course is that “no Sake stone remains left unturned,” and John's motto is “exceed expectations for the course.” Every conceivable Sake-related topic will be covered, and each lecture will be complimented and augmented by a relevant tasting session. Participants will not simply hear about differences based on rice types or yeast types, they will taste and smell them. Students will not only absorb technical data about yamahai, kimoto, nama genshu, aged Sake and regionality, they will absorb the pertinent flavors and aromas within the related sake as well. Participants will taste over 80 Sake within five focused tasting exercises across the three days.

Like its counterpart held in Japan each winter, it will be quite simply the most thorough and comprehensive English-language sake education in existence. Also, as mentioned above, an exam is given at the end of the course for those that choose to seek certification. Those that pass receive a “Certified Sake Professional” certification from the non-profit organization The Sake Education Council.

The cost for the three-day class, including all materials and sake for tasting, is $1099. Participation is limited and reservations can be made now to secure a seat. Full payment will be requested by Friday, September 27th. You can read Testimonials from past participants here. For reservations or inquiries, please send an email to sakeguy0494@gmail.com.

I took this course back in 2010 and give it my unqualified recommendation for anyone who wants to learn more about Sake. John Gauntner is a superb instructor and the class was comprehensive, detailed and John added plenty of interesting anecdotes. The tastings were especially compelling, with intriguing comparison tastings that truly assisted you in understanding the complexities and differences within Sake brewing. For anyone seeking a solid and firm knowledge base of Saké, I cannot recommend this course enough.

2) A Tavola, in Winchester, which is one of my favorite Italian restaurants, has scheduled their next Wine Dinner for September 24 at 6pm. The four course dinner, with a welcome toast and antipasti, will highlights the wines of Vigna Ròda. Uliana Petrucci & Ciro Pirone will describe and discuss the wines during the course of the dinner, and the four wines will include:

Vigna Roda Serprino Frizzante
Vigna Roda Mezzavalle Rosso
Vigna Roda Scarlatto Colli Eugenei Rosso
Vigna Roda Praseo Fior d’Arancio Dolce

Chef Joe Carli will be posting the food menu soon on the A Tavola website. The dinner will cost $95 per person, plus tax and gratuity. Reservations can be made online HERE, and I recommend making reservations now as it's very likely the dinner will sell out. 

The Origins of Chicken Fried Steak

In the photo above, smothered beneath the white gravy, is a tender and delicious piece of Chicken Fried Steak, a dish which is most popular in the South and Mid-West. In general, the steak is from a lesser cut of beef, which has been tenderized, and then dredged in a batter of egg and flour. It's fried in a pan, like you would fry chicken, and then when it's plated, it's usually covered by a white gravy. These are generalizations, and plenty of exceptions exist.  

National Chicken Fried Steak Day is celebrated on October 26, a holiday which started in Texas, codified by a resolution in 2011. The Resolution states, in part: "WHEREAS, This signature dish occupies a special place in the culinary culture of the Lone Star State, and Texas Chicken Fried Steak Day provides a welcome opportunity to pay homage to that shared legacy;.." The holiday has grown from just a celebration in Texas to a celebration across the country. 

What are the origins of Chicken Fried Steak? Who invented it? 

First, I'll note that many people believe Chicken Fried Steak originated in Texas, inspired by German immigrants to Texas during the mid to late 19th century. These immigrants brought with them the dish of Wiener Schnitzel, a fried, breaded veal cutlet. One of the first printed references to Wiener Schnitzel was in a cookbook from 1831, and it began appearing in U.S. newspapers during the latter 1850s. It was thought that veal was expensive, so Texans replaced the veal with less expensive beef. However, as interesting as that theory may be, there's no documentary evidence to show it actually happened. And the printed evidence actually seems to cast strong doubt on this theory.

Second, around 1976, a story was reported that Chicken Fried Steak was invented in Texas by James Donald Perkins, a short order cook who had difficulty reading. He allegedly misread an order “chicken, fried steak” as “chicken fried steak.” Her wasn't sure what the order meant, but he took a piece of steak, rolled it in flour and milk, and then fried it. It became a popular dish but about a year later, James was fired and ended up dead in an alley six months later.  This story spread and was taken as the truth by many people. However, in 1991, it was determined that this story was a fraud.  

The true origins of chicken fried steak extend back to the early 19th century, to simple "fried steak." Over time, recipes for fried steak evolved, becoming what would later to called chicken fried steak. First though, some of the fried steak recipes would become known as "country fried steak," and this was before the use of the term "chicken fried steak." At one point in term, the three terms (fried steak, country fried steak, and chicken fried steak), all referred to the same dish. Thus, chicken fried steak existed before acquiring its name. 

Nowadays, country fried steak and chicken-fried steak are sometimes seen as synonyms, and other times to be somewhat different. Some feel country fried steak is just dredged in flour while chicken fried steak is dipped in an egg batter. Others believe the difference is that country fried steak is covered by a brown gravy while chicken fried steak is covered by a peppery, white gravy. However, historically those differences largely didn't exist as I'll examine in this article.  

So, let's delve into the history of Chicken Fried Steak!

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An ancestor of Chicken Fried Steak is definitely "Fried Steak," a dish which extends back at least to the 1820s, and ranged all across the country. It even existed in England at that time, often referred to there as "fried beef-steak." 

Maybe the first documented recipe for fried steak was in The Dollar Newspaper (PA), October 19, 1864, pictured above. As can be seen, it's simply a fried steak seasoned with salt and pepper, and covered by a brown gravy. The article continued, adding, “Cream Gravy is nice for any fried steak or young fowl, made precisely as directed for gravy for fried beefsteak, only substituting a half tea-cup of sweet cream for butter.”

Although many claim that lesser, and tougher, cuts of beef were used for fried steak (and later chicken fried steak) , that certainly wasn't always the case. Sometimes a fine tenderloin might be used. The Waterville Telegraph (KS), December 22, 1871, published an article on “Fried Beef Steak,” noting, “Take a nice fat tenderloin steak, sprinkle with a little pepper and salt, have your iron pan on the fire, and hot! In it two of three ounces of fresh butter, melted, of course, by the heart, in this place your steak and turn again and again. Cook quickly, brown on both sides with all the juices within, warm your meat dish, and serve the steak piping hot, pouring on the dish and over the meat the melted butter, rich with the encompassed juices of the steak.” I'll also note that the steak was only seasoned with salt and pepper. 

Not everyone was a fan of fried steaks, In Common Sense in the Household: A Manual of Practical Housewifery (1871) by Marion Harland, she stated, “Beef-Steak. It is not customary to fry beef-steaks for people who know what really good cookery is. To speak more plainly, a steak, killed by heat and swimming in grease, is a culinary solecism, both vulgar and indigestible.” Multiple newspaper articles during the 19th century, and into the 20th century, would also denigrate fried steaks.

A different recipe was provided in 1872, and this might actually be the first example of what would eventually be known as "chicken fried steak." In How To Cook (London, 1872) by T.L. Nichols, M.D., it stated, “Fried Steak.—A steak may first be dipped in flour, and well shaken; then, with a little fat or butter, fry it to a nice brown. Veal cutlets, mutton chops, poultry and game, may be done in the same manner.” The addition of the flour is what separates this recipe from the prior recipes for fried steak. Later recipes for country fried steak and chicken fried steak would basically be similar, just dredging the steak in flour before frying it.   

It's also fascinating that this recipe originated in London, England! Could this be the actual origin of chicken fried steak? It seems unlikely as most Americans would never have seen this cook book, and it wouldn't have been influential here. However, it wasn't long before the use of flour was noted in an American cook book.

For example, An Easy & Economical Book of Jewish Cookery Upon Strictly Orthodox Principles (1874) by Mrs. J. Atrutel, provided a recipe, “No. 48.—Fried Steak and Potatoes. Put a little fat in a pan. Season the steak with salt and pepper, and sprinkle a little flour over the steak. Fry it a nice brown colour.” This was 40 years before the first printed mention of "chicken fried steak." 

More hate for fried steak! The Daily National Republican (D.C.), November 13, 1876, ranted, “Your grandmother would have scorned a fried steak.” It continued, “Yet the American beefsteak, the national dish for breakfast, is generally fried. It is often of a pale, measly complexion. Its dry and hard surface is vainly irrigated with lukewarm grease, in which lumps of soft butter float---“ Finally, it advised, “Devote your energy to securing a juicy, broiled steak,…”

In contrast, there was another recipe, with a higher quality cut of beef, which wouldn't have been pale and mealy, or dry and hard. In Housekeeping in Old Virginia (1879) edited by Marion Cabell Tyree, it stated, “Fried Steak. Get from the butcher a tenderloin or porter-house steak. Do not wash it, but be careful to lay it on a clean block and beat it well, but not into holes, nor so as to look ragged. Sprinkle over pepper and salt, then dredge with flour on both sides.” The use of tenderloin or porterhouse for a fried steak may not have been the norm, but there were people making it from those choice cuts. 

Returning to more hate. The Lawrence Daily Journal (KS), February 15, 1880, stated, “We hear a great deal about that ‘abomination called fried steak.’ I will tell you how to make tough steak tender, and how to fry it so that it will be juicy.” The advice continued, “Do not pound it, either with a rolling pin or a potato-masher, or even with that jagged piece of metal or crockery ware which house-furnishing dealers will try to delude you into buying. If you do pound it you will only batter its fibres and let out all its juices.” Instead, the article recommended pouring into a dish a quantity of vinegar, salad oil, salt, pepper, chopped parsley (with optional chopped onion) and then laying the steak in the dish for 3-4 hours. That was supposed to make the steak tender.

The use of flour for fried steak was universal yet. For example, the Oswego Daily Republican (KS), November 15, 1881, published a recipe for fried steak and onions but no flour was used. It was also interesting to note that the Wilson County Citizen (KS), April 12, 1889, stated the term “Smothered Venus" referred to "fried steak and onions.”

The hate continued. The El Paso Herald (TX), December 12, 1899, in discussing Kansas, claimed, “Fried steak has no more nutriment than fried shavings, yet thousands of pounds are chucked into the sour stomachs of this town every month.” The Pacific Commercial Advertiser (HI), May 5, 1907, also mentioned, “Now, a fried steak is a culinary outrage, a gastronomic blasphemy. Frying oxidizes or tans rather than cooks. We see people every day eating steaks fried well done.”

Another recipe, with flour. The Erie Daily Times (PA), June 20, 1907, published the following, “Fried Steak. Use one round steak, cut one and one-half inches thick; salt, pepper, and roll thickly in flour. Fry slowly in plenty of butter and a little lard on back of range one hour.”  

The Chicago Daily News (IL), May 13, 1908, provided another recipe, “Fried Steak. Into two pounds of round or other cut, rub salt to taste and a light teaspoon of soda. Let it lie overnight for breakfast, then before frying rinse in two waters, dip in flour and fry in boiling fat until well done. Serve at once, either with or without gravy poured over it.” Fried steak was a very popular dish for breakfast. And this recipe also noted serving this dish with gravy. 

During the next few months, this recipe would also be published in a variety of other newspapers across the country, including in California, Colorado, Kansas, Nebraska, New Mexico, Oklahoma, Oregon, Rhode Island, and Wisconsin. I'll note that Texas wasn't included on this list.

Another recipe, for "French Fried Steak" first appeared in the Chicago Tribune (IL), December 27, 1908. “French Fried Steak. Take a nice cut of round steak one inch thick, cut in pieces any size desired; take a knife and cross bar it on both sides; salt, pepper and flour; fry to a nice brown, drain most all the fat out of your pan and put your meat back in the pan so it will not rest flat on the bottom. Then almost cover with boiling water, cover tight and let boil slowly until tender. Always replenish with boiling water, and when done have enough water on meat so you will have a nice brown gravy. You may add onions chopped fine if desired.” 

This recipe would also appear in a variety of other newspapers across the country, including in Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky, Louisiana, Maryland, Minnesota, Missouri, Nebraska, Oklahoma, and West Virginia. Once again, note that Texas wasn't included on this list. However, we do see that frying a steak, dredged in flour, was becoming very common across the country. 

The first appearance of the term "country fried steak" appears to have arrived in 1909, five years prior to the use of the term "chicken fried steak." The Tennessean (TN), May 1, 1909, published the above ad for the Royal Hotel and Saloon, noting they served “Country Fried Steak, with Coffee” for 15 cents. Unfortunately, the ad didn't provide a description of this dish.

The St. Louis Star and Times (MO), January 2, 1910, published an ad for Winter’s Southern Lunch Room, which offered “Country Fried Steak (Southern Style)." Again, it's unfortunate that no further description was provided of this dish.

The hate of fried steak continued! The Trenton Evening Times (NJ), May 6, 1911, reported that, “The good wives of Kansas are all agog over the bill that has been introduced into the Legislature making it unlawful to fry beefsteak, says a writer in Success Magazine. In support of his measure, the Kansas lawmaker maintains that fried steak is unhealthful, fruitful of domestic discord and a frequent cause for divorce. Whether it has anything to do with panics, bribery or sunspots this reformer does not state. Steak friers are up in arms against this threatened invasion of the kitchen. Healthy gentlemen who have lived long, useful lives on beefsteak burned hard and dry as shingles are pushed forward as unwilling exhibits.” 

This article was repeated in other newspapers in other parts of the country, but apparently the bill never went anywhere as I couldn't find any follow-up article about it. This was probably more of a publicity stunt rather than an actual desire to prohibit fried steak.  

In addition, the Lakeland Evening Telegram (FL), November 6, 1911, noted that, “The Ocala Star declares that fried steak breaks up more happy homes than booze." It seems rather curious that two different sources would allege domestic problems caused by fried steak.  

The Marion News-Tribune (IN), December 12, 1911, published an ad for Anderson’s Café, which offered “Country Fried Steak with Cream Gravy” for 15 cents. 

Another high-end cut for fried steak. The Farmers Mail & Breeze (KS), January 4, 1913, ran a recipe, submitted by one of their readers, for, “Fried Tenderloin Steak. A nice way to prepare tenderloin is to slice it about 2 inches thick, mash it thin with a wooden potato masher then dip in an egg well beaten, sprinkle on salt and pepper, dip in flour and fry brown in hot lard.” This recipe, which basically is chicken fried steak, appeared before the first documented reference of that term. It's also the first time a fried steak recipe called for dipping the steak in egg and flour.

The term "chicken fried steak" finally made its first known appearance in print in 1914. The Colorado Springs Gazette (C), June 11, 1914, published the above advertisement for the Phelps restaurant. It states, “Did You Ever Eat A Chicken Fried Steak? They are delicious.” This seems to indicate that chicken fried steak was something new, or at least that term was new. 

For unknown reasons, what was previously called "fried steak" or "country fried steak" was now being called "chicken fried steak" by some people. It was simply a change of name, as the basic recipe remained the same. Whoever was the first to coin the term "chicken fried steak" will probably remain unknown forever. It might have originated in Colorado, but then again, it could have originated in another state. Phelps didn't appear to make the claim to be the originator of that term. 

Phelps would publish a number of other advertisements, from June to September 1914, discussing their chicken fried steak. One stated, “Our chef’s best effort—Chicken Fried Steak. Delicious, appetizing, satisfying. Served every day.” Another ad noted, “A Summer Dainty. Chicken Fried Steak” while another one mentioned, “Chicken Fried Steak. A cooling summer food, at the coolest restaurant in the city.” And still another stated,  “Chicken Fried Steak—Cooling—Served at Phelps.” An August ad stated, “Chicken Fried Steak is delicious for lunch today" while a September ad said, “We serve Chicken Fried Steak every day in our cafeteria and dining room.” Almost all of these ads only mentioned Chicken Fried Steak, with a single ad also mentioning "Chocolate Marshmallow Cake."

The Beloit Daily Call (KS), August 4, 1914, published the following recipe, “Fried Round Steak. Take a good cut of round steak and pound it full of flour until no more can be pounded into it, then salt and pepper it; sear on both sides by placing it in a hot frying pan, cover with hot water and bake for 20 minutes in a hot oven.”

A number of restaurants in the Midwest then started advertising country fried steak or chicken fried steak. The Columbia Missourian (MO), February 10, 1915, ran a restaurant ad offering “Country Fried Steak, German Fried Potatoes, Creamy Gravy and Coffee” for 35 cents. The St. Joseph News-Press (MO), December 22, 1915, in a brief ad for Lee Broom’s restaurant, noted a Special of “Chicken fried steak, hot rolls, potatoes and coffee” for 20 cents. The Beloit Daily Call (KS), February 9, 1916, had an ad for Quinn’s Café, and one of their specials was “Chicken Fried Steaks.” The Kansas City Star (MO), June 10, 1916, ran an ad noting, “Dine and Dance at Heisen Follies. Chicken-fried Steaks a specialty.” The Parsons Daily Republican (KS), September 2, 1916, stated, “Eat chicken fried steak supper at Sly’s today.”

Chicken fried steak wasn't just for restaurants. The Fort Scott Daily Tribune (KS), January 23, 1917, ran an article about night school classes and mentioned that the cooking class would teach students how to prepare “chicken fried steak with cream gravy.” The dish had to have been popular enough that people wanted to learn how to prepare it at home. 

The Dodge City Daily Globe (KS), March 3, 1917, published an ad for the Big Popular Café, with a special Sunday dinner of Chicken Fried Sirloin Steak with a Cream Gravy. And the Des Moines Tribune (Iowa), October 30, 1917, had an ad for the Harris-Emery’s store with a cafeteria special of "Chicken Fried Steak with Fried Potatoes." The Carlsbad Current-Argus (NM), May 3, 1918, published an ad for the Crawford Café which served Chicken Fried Steak. The Democrat-Herald (OK), November 7, 1918, had an ad for the Newport Café offering a Thursday supper of Chicken Fried Steak and Cream Gravy for 35 cents.

The Press-Telegram (CA), August 13, 1919, posted the above advertisement for The Beacon, a "Drugless Drug Store." They offered “Chicken Fried Steak. A tender, juicy steak, dipped in flour, fried in butter, with delicious chicken flavored country gravy, fried potatoes, bread and butter, coffee, tea or milk” for only 50 cents. This was the first full description of chicken fried steak that we have seen, and it's basically the same as prior recipes for "fried steak" and "country fried steak." The steak was just dipped in flour, and a "flavored country gravy" covered the steak. So, it is clear that at this point, "chicken fried steak" was just a new name for an old dish. 

Death due to chicken fried steak! The Kansas City Journal (KS), October 23, 1919 and Kansas City Times (KS), October 23, 1919, reported on a killing which originated from an argument over the size of a chicken fried steak. On October 22, James R. Laughlin, aka “Awful Jim,” dined at the Ever Eat restaurant and had a dish of chicken fried steak. It was claimed that he acquired his nickname from the power of his right arm when he fought in the boxing arena about ten years ago. He was currently a watch repairer, but had a reputation, including with the police, as a "bad fighter."

The dish cost 30 cents and when James went to pay, he claimed that the steak had been too small and wasn't worth 30 cents. This led to an argument and scuffle with James Kanatanis (or Komantanis), a 23 year old Greek waiter.  At some point, four employees worked together to eject Laughlin from the restaurant. However, he returned, carrying a revolver. At some point, Kanatanis hit Laughlin in the head with a milk bottle, inflicting a deep cut, and Laughlin shot Kanatanis through the heart, possibly while he was trying to call the police. There were plenty of witnesses to the incident.

Earlier that year, Laughlin had run into other legal problems. The Kansas City Kansan (KS), February 11, 1919, reported that James R. Laughlin, had been arrested the previous night for breaking the jaw of Don Stout with one blow. They had been eating a "midnight lunch" at a restaurant and James alleged that Stout took up too much room at the counter and couldn’t resist hitting him. James stated, “No man can put his elbow in my potatoes without suffering for it.” Curiously, the article also claimed that Laughlin acquired his nickname, “Awful Jim," about 15 years ago while playing semi-pro baseball in Kansas City. He eventually pled guilty, was fined $25 and sentenced to five days in jail.

As to the shooting over the chicken fried steak, Laughlin was charged with murder and didn't go to trial until June 1920. Laughlin alleged self defense, and the trial ended in a hung jury. It was noted that Laughlin would be retried although it doesn't appear that ever came to fruition. The Kansas City Star (KS), April 7, 1922, then reported that Laughlin had died, although the cause of death wasn't provided.

The St. Louis Star and Times (MO), January 8, 1920, punished an ad for Remley’s, mentioning that Cafeteria Saturday offered “Country Fried Steak, genuine native steer, cut right from the choice porterhouse; tender as butter, sweet as a nut” for 25 cents. This is another example where the steak wasn't always a lesser cut. On the other had, The Daily Oklahoman (OK), April 4, 1920, ran an article about beef cuts, noting that flank steak can be used for “mock chicken-fried steak.”

An amusing aside. The Manhattan Republic (KS), April 15, 1920, briefly quipped, “The person who named chicken fried steak must have been a city chef who thinks that chickens are raised in cold storage houses.”

The Emporia Gazette (KS), October 15, 1920, ran the above advertisement for the Mit-Way Hotel, with a sample menu of their 50 cent lunch, which included “Chicken Fried Steak, Cream Gravy.”

The Tulsa Tribune (OK), March 31, 1921, had an ad, pictured above, for Newman Eats, which was “Open all night. Tables for ladies.” One of the menu options was “Chicken Fried Steak, Cream Gravy” for 30 cents.

In June 1921, the Maids’ and Matrons’ Cook Book: 600 Choice and Tested Recipes by the Women of the Christian Church (Colby, Kansas) was published, and it contained a recipe for Chicken Fried Steak. First, it called for round steak or sirloin (which certainly is not as lesser cut). Second, the steak was dipped in a batter of eggs and milk, and then dipped into cracker or bread crumbs. This recipe is similar to the recipe from 1913 from the Farmers Mail & Breeze (KS). However, this recipe also included the use of cracker or bread crumbs, the first use of such items in one of these recipes.  

The Sunday World-Herald (NE), August 14, 1921, had a brief ad for the Woodmen Cafeteria which offered Chicken Fried Steak for 50 cents. The Springfield Sunday Journal (IL), November 13, 1921, ran an ad for The New Windsor Café with a Special Sunday Dinner for 65 cents and one of the options was “Chicken Fried Steak with cream gravy.” The Arizona Republican (AZ), January 24, 1922, had an ad for The Whitton’s Confectionary & Café which offered a “Special Chicken Fried Steak, Country Gravy” for 35 cents. And the Arizona Republican (AZ), March 6, 1922, ran an ad for Graves’ Café and Confectionary with “Graves special chicken fried steak with country gravy” for 35 cents. 

The Fort-Wayne Journal-Gazette (IN), April 5, 1922, published an advertisement for the Dixie Waffle House which had “Chicken Fried Steak—Yankee Style” for 40 cents. There was no indication as to what was meant by “Yankee style.” The Columbia Evening Missourian (MO), July 17, 1922, ran an ad for McAllister’s Cafeteria which offered Chicken Fried Steak for 25 cents. The Tulsa Tribune (OK), December 20, 1922, printed an ad for Baker’s Elite Café with Chicken Fried Steak for 35 cents. And the Muskegon Chronicle (MI), December 26, 1922, had an ad for the Jefferson Cafeteria which served “Chicken Fried Steak, Potatoes” for 20 cents.

Then, the Riverside Daily Press (CA), September 21, 1923, published an ad for The Jersey Café. where one of the dinner options was Chicken Fried Steak. The Omaha Morning Bee (NE), November 3, 1923, ran an ad for the Burgess-Nash Company which noted, “Mezzanine Menu, 40 cents. Small Chicken Fried Steak, Lyonnaise Potatoes, Bread and Butter Fold, Ice Cream or Pie, Coffee.” The Los Angeles Examiner (CA), November 15, 1923, had an ad for Haggard’s Shop, with a dinner special of “Chicken Fried Steak with Country Gravy” for 50 cents. The Idaho Falls Daily Post (ID), December 6, 1923, ran an ad for the Rainbow Café whose Five O’Clock Specials included “Chicken Fried Steak, Country Gravy” for 45 cents. 

Chicken Fried Steak was becoming a popular dish across a significant portion of the country. 

Chicken fried steak even ended up being served in New York City! In 1924, there was a Circle Theater Souvenir Edition of the song, Alabama Rose by W.W. Trahern. Sophie Tucker had sung the song, and the lyrics and music were included in this brief volume. The volume also had numerous advertisements for New York City businesses. One of the advertisers was the Theater Café, which offered chicken fried steak and gravy. 

The Omaha Morning Bee (NE), June 23, 1924, published an ad for the Rome Cafeteria, offering Chicken Fried Steak with Potatoes for 30 cents. The Sentinel-Record (AR), July 1, 1924, had an ad for Paul’s Café and one of their menu options was Chicken Fried Steak with Country Gravy for 30 cents. The Indianapolis Times (IN), June 1, 1925, printed a review of the Black Cat Chile Parlor where you could order “chicken-fried steak, French fried potatoes, and cream gravy.” 

Another recipe. The Los Angeles Examiner (CA), June 6, 1925, had a Prudence Penny column, which offered its readers recipes, cooking suggestions and advice. The column noted that a previous reader had been given a recipe for chicken fried steak and now another recipe was offered. The writer had been provided this recipe by some friends, who noted it was made with a “round steak, pounded, dipped in milk and flour or egg and cracker crumbs, then fried in butter or grease, ..." The recipe continued, "Make the gravy out of the grease, adding flour and milk or water, then season with salt, pepper and Worcestershire sauce.” The writer finally stated, “I have cooked round steak in this manner many times, but never called it ‘chicken fried steak.”

The Grand Prairie Texan (TX), July 31, 1925, published an ad for the Sandwich Shoppe which offered a plate lunch special of Chicken Fried Steak, Mashed Potatoes, Blackeyed Peas, String Beans, and Sliced Tomatoes for 35 cents. The Abilene Daily Reporter (TX), August 27, 1926, ran an ad for Wilson restaurant, which stated, "Try our Chicken Fried Steak." 

These two references were the first printed mentions of Chicken Fried Steak in Texas, eleven years after the term's first documented mentions in Colorado in 1914. And we have seen all the other printed mentions of this term in a number of other states, including Arizona, California, Idaho, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Michigan, Missouri, Nebraska, New Mexico, New York, and Oklahoma. If Texas had been the birthplace of chicken fried steak, then we would have seen earlier mentions, rather than the first appearing eleven years later. 

The Laredo Daily Times (TX), January 28, 1927, presented an announcement and advertisement for the Robt. E. Lee Dining Room. The ad cheekily stated, “If Your Wife Can’t Cook, Don’t Divorce Her—Keep Her for a Pet, and Dine at the Robt. E. Lee Hotel.” Their menu included chicken fried steak and country gravy.

A Chicken Fried Steak Sandwich! The Bonham Daily Favorite (TX), January 19, 1928, ran an ad for the John Pierce Sandwich Shop which offered a Chicken Fried Steak Sandwich for 10 cents. This was the first mention of such a sandwich although it certainly wouldn't be the last. Other restaurants across the country would also begin offering such sandwiches.

Another recipe. The Los Angeles Evening Express (CA), April 30, 1928, provided the following recipe; “Chicken-fried steak is prepared as follows: Dredge round steak or sirloin tops with flour and sear quickly on both sides in hot fat in frying pan. When well browned sprinkle with salt and pepper, add a small amount of water, cover tightly and allow to steam until tender. It is well to put into the oven for the steaming, as it will require less attention. When the meat is tender it should be removed to a hot platter and thin brown gravy made of the drippings. This is poured over the steak, resembling smothered chicken.” As we see, the steak was only dredged in flour, similar to the prior recipes for "Fried Steak" and "Country Fried Steak."

The Houston Chronicle (TX), November 2, 1928, had an ad for the Rice Hotel Cafeteria and one of their 5 O’clock Specials was “Chicken Fried Steak, Roadhaus Style” for 50 cents. They had a similar ad on November 19 with “Chicken Fried Steak, Roadhouse Style, Candied Yams” and another ad in February 6, 1929 with “Chicken Fried Steak, Country Gravy, Asparagus Tips” for 46 cents. There was no explanation as to what was meant by "Roadhouse Style."

The Council Bluffs Nonpareil (IA), November 7, 1928, ran an ad for the Chieftain Coffee Shop whose lunch menu included Chicken Fried Steak with Corn Fritters. The Abilene Daily Reporter (TX), January 11, 1929, printed an ad for the Grace Coffee Shop with a Saturday special of “Chicken Fried Steak, Pan Gravy.”

In the Los Angeles Examiner (CA), February 9, 1929, the Prudence Penny column ran another recipe for Chicken Fried Steak, which stated: “Get round steak, pound it thoroughly with a potato masher to break the tough fibers, and then dip first in milk, then in four, or first in egg, then in cracker crumbs. Saute in the frying pan with butter or other fat, and make gravy out of the fat, thickening with flour, and adding milk or water. Then season with salt, pepper and Worcestershire sauce.”

There was another recipe in the Los Angeles Examiner (CA), March 1, 1929, in the Prudence Penny column. A reader, Mrs. J.S. Campbell, submitted her own recipe, “Have sirloin tips, or the upper half of a round steak cut ¾-inch thick. Lay on board and pound with blunt instrument, wooden potato masher is good. Roll in flour and sprinkle a handful on steak for good measure and pound some more. When steak has absorbed all the flour it will take, drop in a pan of hot drippings, or half butter and other fat. Brown well on one side. When the steak is turned, lower flame and fry or stream for fifteen minutes. If drippings are used, a piece of butter added after turning goes a long way to make meat tender. This is chicken fried steak, Louisiana style.” 

These two recipes were very different, one more of the original recipe, with just the use of flour, and the other the more evolved, with the use of milk, egg and cracker crumbs. Chicken fried steak had multiple meanings at this point.

The Indianapolis Times (IN), April 1, 1929, had an ad for Wheeler’s Lunch, with all week special of “Delicious Chicken Fried Steak, Pan Gravy, Stringless Beans and Tea Biscuits” for 30 cents. And the Illinois State Register (IL), May 9, 1929, ran an ad for Dewitt’s Café, offering, “Delicious Chicken Fried Steak and French Fries Potatoes” for 50 cents. 

Boys Scouts and chicken fried steak! The Abilene Morning Reporter-News (TX), July 28, 1929, reported on an upcoming Boy Scouts camp where the boys would, for dinner, enjoy “chicken fried steak with cream gravy, mashed potatoes, sliced pickles and onions, fruit pudding, iced tea.”

The Omaha World-Herald (NE), August 13, 1929, ran another ad for the Rome Cafeteria, with chicken fried steak for 30 cents.  

The San Antonio Express (TX), December 29, 1929, had an ad for The Gunter “Cave,” a new cafeteria in San Antonio, which offered Chicken Fried Steak for 30 cents.

The Household Searchlight Recipe Book (Kansas, 1931), compiled and edited by Ida Migliario, Harriet W. Allard, Zorada Z. Titus, and Irene Westbrook, had a brief recipe for Chicken Fried Steak, which only required being covered with flour, salt and pepper.  

The Las Vegas Evening Review (NV), May 8, 1931, had an ad for the Bull Pen Inn, which featured Chicken Fried Steak Dinners in their café. The Cincinnati Post (OH), March 17, 1932, ran an ad for the Coffee Shop, and one of their dinner entrées was Chicken Fried Steak with fresh mushroom sauce. The Times-Picayune (LA), April 20, 1932, had an ad for Maison Blanche which offered a shoppers’ special lunch of Chicken Fried Steak with Cream Gravy for 25 cents.

Cooking classes. The Trenton Sunday-Times (NJ), January 29, 1933, printed an article about courses offered at Oklahoma A.&M. College, including “Bachelor housekeeping,” the unofficial title of their most popular course. This course included lessons on “preparing chicken-fried steak.”

The Palm Beach Post (FL), April 21, 1934, published an ad for Meacham’s which had Chicken Fried Steak for 17 cents. The Albuquerque Tribune (NM), May 22, 1934, ran an ad for the Liberty Café which served “Chicken Fried Steak, Country Style, Potatoes, bread and butter” for 30 cents. And the Arkansas Gazette (AR), October 12, 1934, printed an ad for a Safeway food store. In the “Cooked Foods” section of the advertisement, they offered Chicken Fried Steak at 29 cents a pound.

Another sandwich. The Arkansas Gazette (AR), May 27, 1935, in an ad for the Food Palace, offered a Chicken Fried Steak Sandwich for 10 cents. 

Is chicken fried steak "cruel and unusual punishment?" The Boston Herald (MA), June 19, 1935, and other newspapers at this time, reported on a prisoner strike at the Kansas state prison. About 380 prisoners were demanding “better cooked food.” The article noted that their supper that evening was supposed to be “Chicken fried steak, country gravy, boiled potatoes, baked corn, garden vegetables, bread and iced tea.” The menu itself sounds good, but maybe it was prepared poorly, and that was the rationale behind the strike. 

The New Canaan Advertiser (CT), April 30, 1936, had an intriguing article titled “Chicken Fried Steak Is Truly California Dish” with a subtitle of “Kansas Small Town Folks and Son of Sunny Italy Collaborate To Excellent Dish” The restaurant, located in Los Angeles, California, was famous for a single "great dish," Chicken Fried Steak. It appears that the owners, Tillie and Mack, came from Kansas with the basic chicken fried steak recipe. One of their customers, an Italian man, dined there but wasn't happy with the dish. He felt it could be improved and he designed a garlic sauce for the dish, which Tillie and Mack decided to adopt. The altered recipe is pictured above, and you'll note that the steak is just covered in flour, and there weren't any eggs or crumbs added.  

The Los Angeles Examiner (CA), May 1, 1936, briefly stated, “We hear so much about chicken-fried steak, but now lamb chops have agreed to be treated in the same manner and here is how it is done.” A recipe was then provided for those lamb chops. Once again, the recipe only asked for flour as a coating for the chicken fried lamb chops and added a mushroom gravy. 

The New Orleans Item (LA), August 17, 1936, discussed the A.&G. Sandwich Stands, which have multiple locations, and offered Chicken-Fried Steak sandwiches for 15 cents. 

Another recipe. The Jersey Journal (NJ), August 27, 1936, presented a recipe for chicken fried steak, “Use steaks cut from the round, nor more than ½ inch thick, dredge in flour, season with salt and pepper. Fry quickly in hot shortening. Blend flour with far, add water, stirring to prevent lumps, season and pour over steak.” Again, simply flour was used. 

The Parish Cook Book (New York, 1937) by the Ladies’ Guild of Grace Episcopal Church, provided the above recipe. Interestingly, sirloin tips were one of the recommended cuts of beef. And once again, flour was the only coating, and a mushroom gravy was made for atop the steak. 

The Patteran Cook Book (1939) by the Woman’s Club of Whittier, CA, provided the above recipe, which called for a T-bone or sirloin steak. It too was only covered by flour, and also had a mushroom gravy. 

The Atlanta Journal (GA), January 5, 1939, provided another recipe for Chicken-Fried Steak, which called for the use of sirloin steak. The only covering was flour, but this recipe did not call for a gravy. 

The Evening Tribune (CA), June 1, 1939, printed an advertisement for Safeway which had a recipe for Chicken Fried Steak. The ingredients included 2 lbs. Round Steak cut thick, 1 tsp salt, ½ tsp pepper, ¾ cup flour, 2 cups milk, and 5 tbsps shortening. The directions stated, “Pound steak to half original thickness. Dip in seasoned flour; fry quickly in hot fat, turning twice. Remove steak to hot plate and thicken fat with flour. Stir until smooth, add milk to make gravy. Season, serve with steak. Serves 6.”

Chicken fried steak was even available in Alaska! The Daily Alaska Empire (AK), October 21, 1939, noted that The Baranof Hotel served Chicken Fried Steak with Country Gravy.

The Springfield Republican (MA), March 4, 1940, printed the above recipe for Chicken Fried Steak, and it also used only flour as a coating. 

A different coating for chicken fried steak. The Times-Picayune (LA), May 18, 1940, published the above recipe, where the steak was coated with more of a batter, using flour, salt, milk, egg and baking powder. This is more like the modern day chicken fried steak, but it took a number of years before this became the norm instead of merely a flour coating. 

The Morning Advocate (LA), December 22, 1940, also provided a recipe for Chicken Fried Steak, as well as a variation, “Spanish Steak.” It was made like chicken fried steak except you substituted 2 cups of canned tomatoes for water and cream. Plus, you arranged 5 green pepper rings atop steak when it was done.

The popularity of chicken fried steak! The Boston Traveler (MA), April 22, 1942, reported that experts from the National Restaurant Association, at an annual meeting, compiled a list of Americans' top 10 favorite dishes. The First Place dish was Ham & eggs, country style while Second Place went to Prime ribs of beef, au jus. Third Place was occupied by Chicken-fried steak & country gravy. 

And, for now, that's where we''ll end our examination of the origins of Chicken Fried Steak.

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Although the first documented reference to "chicken fried steak" appeared in 1914, it's clear from the first recipes for this dish that it was merely a new name for "country fried steak" (which first appeared in 1909) and "fried steak" (which first appeared in the 1820s). Initially, fried steak was only seasoned with salt and pepper, but in 1872, the first recipe using flour on the steak appeared. And it's fascinating that this recipe was in a cookbook published in London! These first recipes for fried steak were essentially the same as the first recipes for chicken fried steak. So, we can say that the first chicken fried steak recipes, just under a different name, extend back at least to 1872. 

Although many haters in the 19th and 20th century claimed fried steak was made from lesser cuts of beef, which often were tough and chewy, there were a significant number of recipes calling for more choice cuts, such as tenderloin, sirloin and porterhouse.  

In 1913, the first recipe, for Fried Tenderloin Steak, used more than just flour on the steak, dredging it in both egg and flour.  And in 1921, the first cookbook provided a recipe where the steak was dipped in a batter of eggs and milk, and then dipped into cracker or bread crumbs. However, during the late 1920s and the 1930s, most of the recipes, from fried steak, country fried steak, and chicken fried steak, only called for flour. It took time for the recipes to evolve, and start making it a norm to batter the steak, to resemble the chicken fried steak you now see at numerous restaurants. 

Where have you enjoyed Chicken Fried Steak? Does anyone make this dish at home?