Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) Salt & Straw’s Halloween Series is back, bringing five spooky, candy filled flavors to scoop shops nationwide. Available through November 1, this year’s lineup leans into the playful side of Halloween, finding inspiration in everything from a trick or treater’s dream candy stash, to edible chocolate-covered creepy crawlers and nostalgic confections.

Additionally, on October 30 and 31, guests who trick or treat at Salt & Straw can also dress up their scoop with a free Halloween upgrade featuring black and orange sprinkles, whipped cream and a sugar cone, plus a limited edition sticker designed by Portland artist Mike Bennett, available while supplies last.

Flavors in The Halloween Series include:
The Great Candycopia – A trick or treater’s bag of chocolate candies including Crunch Bars, Reese’s, Snickers and Heath dumped into salted butterscotch ice cream, with chocolate feuilletine, peanut butter and BOOrbon vanilla toffee throughout.
Jack O’Lantern Pumpkin Bread – Pumpkin spiced ice cream with hunks of pumpkin bread and generous ribbons of whipped cream cheese frosting.
Witch’s Brew Fruit Punch Sherbet – A refreshing fruit punch sherbet bursting with orange flavored candy and finished with ribbons of sour candy apple.
Creepy Crawly Critters – Sweet green matcha ice cream scattered with candy coated chocolate crickets and toffee brittle mealworms, made in collaboration with Don Bugito. (Yes! There are real insects!)
Chocolate Graveyard Cookie Crumble (v) – Dairy free black cocoa coconut cream with black cocoa cookie crumbles and crimson swirls of vegan white chocolate frosting.

2) During the entire month of October, Maple & Ash in the Seaport will feature a cocktail with a cause for Breast Cancer Awareness Month: Second Chances with Grey Goose, housemade fig vermouth, spiced pear, cranberry-apple, and citrus. The cocktail costs $20 and with each purchased, Maple & Ash will donate $2 to The Ellie Fund in collaboration with Bacardi Limited.

3) Croatian Premium Wine Imports has announced their next Masterclass, focused on the region of Istria, on Tuesday, October 27 at 8 pm Eastern/5 pm Pacific. The class will start with an intro to Croatian regions and then focus on Istrian regions and winemaking as well as taste four wines: two whites – a Malvasia and a blend with Malvasia, followed by two reds – a coastal Teran as well as a Teran from Motovun, which have very different expressions. 

No purchase is necessary. If you register HERE you will get a link to the Zoom video call, where they always take Q&As, or if you cannot join them, they will also send registrants the recording and slides.

If you want to taste the wines along with them during the Zoom, they are offering these four wines as an Istrian Masterclass Bundle at a 15% discount. East Coasters should order by October 15 to make sure they receive the wines in time for the Masterclass. The bundle includes:
Damjanic Malvazija
Franković Filiam Blend
Ritoša Teran
Fakin Teran

I've been to the Istria region, and loved their wines. Many people may know about the Dalmatia region, which is the most popular tourist destination in Croatia, but Istria is very worthy of your attention.

Amabuki Yamahai Junmai Omachi: An Intriguing Sake Made with Marigold Yeast

Most Sake is produced using Sake yeast, and there are a variety of commercial yeasts available, and each type has a specific profile. Other breweries may use native yeasts, although that's a riskier proposition, but can also create more unique aromas and flavors. And still other breweries have adopted the use of flower yeasts, derived from a variety of flowers and fruits. You can find flower yeasts from sunflowers, begonia, rhododendron, bananas, strawberries, apples, and more. New flower yeasts also continue to be produced. 

The Amabuki Yamahai Junmai Omachi ($36.95) is a new arrival at Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet, in Melrose. The Amabuki Shuzo was founded in 1688, making it almost 340 years old, in the Saga Prefecture, which is located in the northern section of Kyushu Island. The brewery acquired its name from Mt. Amabuki, part of the Sefuri mountain range. The brewery's motto is "Onko Sousei," which means, “we learn from the past and create new and better things.” They also state, "We brew sake that makes you relax and enjoy your precious time."  

The brewery also uses a variety of flower yeasts to make their Sake more unique, including strawberry yeast, banana yeast, sunflower yeast, begonia yeast, and more. This particular Sake was brewed with Marigold Yeast, providing some subtle elements of marigold in the aroma and flavors, which the brewery states includes "the sophisticated fragrance and robust flavor of marigold" which is presented well in warmed sake. In Japan, marigolds symbolize jealousy, despair, grief and sadness, although it can also symbolize passion and creativity.  

The Sake was made from 100% Omachi rice, a pure rice strain which was discovered in 1859, and tends to make Sake which is more earthy and herbal, with high acidity. The rice has been polished down to 65%. As a Junmai, the Sake is made with only four ingredients: rice, water, yeast and koji-kin mold. As it is a Yamahai, it's made with an older method of production, using natural lactic acid in the air rather than adding commercial lactic acid. This tends to enhance the umami of the Sake, but is a riskier method of production. 

The Amabuki only has a 15% ABV, and is also gluten-free, with no preservatives or additives. This is a Sake that can be served chilled, but is said to be especially good if served gently warmed or hot, which enhances the effects of the marigold yeast. On the nose, this Sake presents mild floral notes, with an underlying earthiness. On the palate, it's light to medium-bodied, with a complex blend of flavors, including plenty of umami notes, a subtle floral aspect, an earthy backbone, and hints of nuts. Good acidity and a lingering finish. Delicious and intriguing.  

Suggested food pairings include grilled chicken and mushroom dishes, and I'm sure the umami element of the Sake would go great with mushrooms and truffles, as well as Italian dishes, especially made with tomatoes and parmesan cheese. Any food that possesses umami would probably also go well with this Sake. 

I recommend the Amabuki Yamahai Junmai Omachi, and it's a very good example of the impact of flower yeast on Sake, creating unique aromas and flavors, going beyond the usual commercial yeasts. Taste something different!

Rant: Don't Be A Cheapskate With Holiday Wines

The holiday season nears, and many people will stop by their local wine shop to purchase wines for parties, dinners, or gifts, for Halloween, Thanksgiving, Christmas, or other upcoming holidays. Let me provide you an important piece of advice for purchasing wines throughout this holiday season.

Don't be a cheapskate! 

In preparation for the holidays, people stock up on wine to serve their guests at the various parties, feasts, dinners and celebrations. Often, because they are buying bottles in bulk, purchasing multiple bottles, their primary concern is price, not quality. So, they too often buy the large, commercial "value" wines, the brand names which are known to everyone.

Please don't do it!

It takes almost no thought to buy such wines. Though such wines might be drinkable, they aren't going to impress anyone. You've chosen to take the cheapest route possible, in both price and time. These wines are generally industrial products, created to taste the same year to year, and you never know what additives might be in these wines. They are like the McDonald's of the wine world. Do you really want to serve such wines to your loved ones, your family and friends?

There's a better way.

If you're hosting a holiday party, don't you want to impress your guests? Or do you want to be known as the person who bought the cheapest wine available? Don't you want your guests to leave the party talking about the great time they had, telling others about the delicious wines they enjoyed? Or would you rather have them later complain that the wine was unappealing? It only takes a little extra work and price to elevate your wine selections.

I certainly understand the need to control your wine costs when you're providing for a number of guests. You don't have to buy $50 wines to impress your guests and you don't even have to spend $20 per bottle. I've purchased numerous $10-$15 wines, only a few dollars more than you might otherwise spend on those "value" wines, and brought them to parties where the other guests loved them, wanting to know where they could buy them.

There are good and interesting wines at this price point, if you know where to seek them out. If you want your holiday celebration to be even more popular, then you should serve those type of wines. The extra effort and money will elevate your party and bring more pleasure to your family, friends, and other guests. Isn't the holiday season the time to splurge a little more?

How do you find these inexpensive but interesting wines? At whatever wine shop you visit, it might be best to ask the wine store staff for recommendations of their best value wines. They should be able to direct you toward those inexpensive wines which will be more interesting and delicious than those cheap commercial wines. For example, at Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet in Melrose, where I work, I can recommend a number of much better value wines, from Vinho Verde to Montepulciano. I can help you impress your guests.

In addition, most wine stores offer a discount for bulk purchases, commonly 5-20%, and sometimes for as little as 3 bottles, which makes your wine cost even less expensive. And these are usually discounts that the wine store doesn't provide for the large-scale, commercial "value" wines. So, with those discounts, your prices for these better value wines can be even closer to that of the large-scale, commercial "value" wines.

If for some reason you can't ask a store employee for some recommendations, then my best advice for selecting a good wine that is $15 or under, is to buy a Portuguese wine. I think some of the greatest value wines are coming out of Portugal, especially at this price point. Chances are that if you purchase a Portuguese wine costing $15 or less, you'll find a delicious wine, much better than similarly priced wines from most other regions. And there are plenty of Portuguese wines available in that price range. There is probably no other wine region where you can find as many good wines at that price point.

You also should know that paying a few dollars more for your wine can make a big difference. When you start considering wines priced from $15-$20, your options increase drastically. You can find some interesting wines from all over the world in that price range, though they still offer value. And if you are buying in bulk where the wine store offers a discount for larger purchases, you can save enough money so that the wines end up priced closer to $15 or less per bottle.

So this holiday season, don't buy the same old cheap wines.

It won't take much effort to select some better choices, and still very inexpensively. In the end, you'll impress your guests, make your holiday party more memorable, and drink better wines.

(This is a revised version of a post originally from 2009. It's an important enough issue to raise it once again.)

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) For four decades, the National Mustard Museum has been sharing the history, humor, culture and downright magic of the "King of Condiments" with visitors from around the world. What began with Barry Levenson’s mustard collection has grown into a one-of-a-kind nonprofit museum dedicated to preserving an extraordinary collection and educating generations of mustard lovers.

As they celebrate this incredible milestone, they’re asking their friends, fans and fellow mustard enthusiasts to consider a $40 donation in honor of their 40th anniversary. Your donation helps keep the collection, education and magic of the King of Condiments alive for the next 40 years and beyond. Their goal is $10,000, and they are getting close to nearly half that goal, so they need more donors to help them out. 

The National Mustard Museum is a nonprofit organization funded by donations from generous supporters like you. The museum does not receive profits from the gift shop. That means every donation makes a direct difference in helping us preserve this unique piece of culinary history and continue our mission for years to come. Forty years. Thousands of mustards. Countless visitors. One very special museum.

Whether you’ve visited them in person, fallen down the mustard rabbit hole online, attended National Mustard Day, or simply love what they do, they hope you’ll help them mark this momentous anniversary!

As a token of our appreciation, for the $40 donation you receive:
MFA Diploma (Master of Fine Accoutrements)
Commemorative sticker and a magnet
Name on their digital wall & museum wall

For the $400 donation you receive:
Gift Box of the Curator's favorites
Name on both walls

To Donate, please go HERE. 

2) Are you a mustard lover? Are you intrigued about the history of mustard and its myriad of styles and flavors? Would you like to learn much more about mustard?

Ken Zuckerman, the "Mustard Maestro," will be teaching a one-night course, "Wurst Sausages & Best Mustards," through Arlington Community Education on Wednesday, October 21, from 6:30pm-8pm. Ken is the Head of Marketing for a local artisanal food distributor and a passionate devotee of all things vinegary & fermented. He's also on the board of the National Mustard Museum in Wisconsin, which sports a collection of over 6800 mustards, and which for the past 30+ years has conducted the Worldwide Mustard Competition featuring 500 entries facing off in 19 different categories.

The description of the class: "When attending a major sporting event or Oktoberfest, the aroma of sausages and hot dogs fills the air, accompanied by their essential partner: mustard. This tasting explores what makes a great condiment pairing, featuring award winners from the National Mustard Museum’s annual Worldwide Mustard Competition. Sample 12 domestic and imported mustards, from classic yellow to spicy brown and deli-style to bratwurst blends, paired with iconic New England hot dogs, sausages, and brats."

The cost of the class is $49 per person. To register for the class, go HERE.

3) Beginning this Saturday, September 26, AVRA Estiatorio will introduce weekend brunch Saturdays and Sundays from 11:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. at its Back Bay location within the Lyrik Back Bay complex at 400 Newbury Street.

AVRA’s new brunch combines classic brunch favorites with the restaurant’s signature Mediterranean cuisine. Guests can choose from an à la carte selection of brunch favorites, including French toast with berries and cream cheese frosting ($21); eggs any style with home fries and bacon ($21); the AVRA omelette with Boursin cheese and baby spinach ($22); a Nova smoked salmon platter ($24); and a warm, butter-poached lobster roll served on brioche (MKT). A Bloody Mary bar cart will also circulate table-to-table.

For those looking to experience the flavors of AVRA, a three-course prix fixe menu ($41.95 per person) offers a selection of Mediterranean and Greek favorites. Starters include Greek salad, traditional Greek spreads, grilled calamari, and tuna or salmon tartare. Main courses include chicken paillard, charcoal grilled Mediterranean sea bass, and grilled salmon, followed by desserts including baklava, orange cake or fresh fruit. AVRA’s extensive all-day menu will also be available à la carte.

Suwa Mantensei Kinoko Junmai Ginjo: Mushroom Sake!

"Kinoko" is the Japanese term for "mushroom" and the above pictured Sake was specifically produced to pair very well with mushroom dishes. No mushrooms were used in the brewing of the Sake, but its prominent umami creates a synergistic effect with the natural umami of mushrooms, intensifying the overall taste. 

 
The Suwa Mantensei Kinoko Junmai Ginjo ($39.95), a limited edition, is a new arrival at Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet, in Melrose, and it intrigued me from the start. I bought a bottle, knowing I would soon be enjoying a Japanese stir-fry with steak and mushrooms, and wanting to experience this umami pairing. And it was amazing, a stellar pairing that elevated both the food and Sake. 

The Suwa Shuzo, founded in 1859, was named after the local Shinto Suwa-jinja Shrine, which is dedicated to Suwa-no-Kami, a kami of valor and duty. The brewery is located in Chizu Town, in the Tottori Prefecture, which is a small town of only about 7,000 people and most of Chizu Town is covered by mountain forests. 

The President of the brewery is Masahiko Touda, who has a passion for foraging and studying mushrooms, a "self-proclaimed fungi investigator," so the Kinoko Sake was a personal project for him. There is some conflicting information, noting that Touda is the brewery's Toji, master brewer, but other sources note that the Toji is Hakuma Kyoji. It seems clear that Touda was a Toji, for some period of time, and during that period created the Kinoko. He might have chosen to retire as Toji recently, and now Kyoji is the Toji. 

The Sake was made from 100% local Tamasakae rice, a rare variety, first developed in 1954, which is mostly grown in the Shiga  and Tottori Prefectures. This rice is known for producing rich, full-bodied, and savory Sake, with a prominent umami. As a Junmai Ginjo, the rice for the Kinoko needs to be polished down to at least 60%, but the brewery polishes it down to 50%, which is what Daiginjo is polished down to. However, the brewery chose not to make the Kinoko a Daiginjo. In addition, during production, they use a higher ratio of koji rice, intended to bring out notes of smoke, honey, and soy. 

The Kinoko only has a 15% ABV, and is also vegan and gluten-free. This is also a Sake that can be served chilled, at room temperature or gently warmed, each temperature providing a different experience, emphasizing different elements of the Sake. The Kinoko possesses an intriguing nose of earthy elements, akin to mushrooms, as well as subtle hints of chocolate and caramel, although without any sweetness. On the palate, it's medium-bodied, rich and savory, with a dominant sense of umami, and a complex melange of subtle flavors, from cocoa to citrus. Excellent acidity and a lengthy, smooth and satisfying finish. 

The stir fry, with its beech and shiitake mushrooms, and shaved steak, was an excellent pairing with the Kinoko Sake. The umami elements were enhanced, and it was such a satisfying taste. Touda-San definitely accomplished his objective, creating a Sake that kills it paired with mushrooms. This Sake would also be a great pairing with truffles, which also possess their own significant umami nature. I would also recommend this Sake for pairing with certain Italian cuisine, and not just those dishes with mushrooms. Ripe tomatoes and parmesan cheese are rich in umami, and this Sake would intensify those tastes too. A mushroom pizza and the Kinoko would be a fine combination. 

I highly recommend the Suwa Mantensei Kinoko Junmai Ginjo, and it's a very good example of how Sake pairs well with a wide variety of cuisines. 

Celebrate International Plavac Mali Day!

Today is International Plavac Mali Day!

Five years ago, in 2021, the Croatian Wine Alliance, a group of global teams promoting Croatian wines led by the US-based duo, Aroma Wine Co., and Croatian Premium Wine Imports, Inc., made September 21 to be International Plavac Mali Day. This collaboration is a public and private partnership among organizations from the US, Canada, Australia, Europe and Croatia – all dedicated to telling the many stories of this indigenous and predominant Croatian red variety. 

Plavac Mali is a descendant of Zinfandel (aka Tribidrag or Crljenak kaštelanski) creating a natural hybrid with another indigenous variety, Dobričić. Plavac Mali produces several styles of wines, from medium-bodied and easy-drinking, to elegant and robust wines. The aromas in Plavac mali are predominantly dark berries and Mediterranean herbs with expressive tannins, and mineral on the palate. Plavac Mali means ‘little blue’, referring to its appearance, small and dark blue berries.

I've twice visited Croatia, and written over 85 articles about my experiences in that beautiful and wondrous country, as well as Croatian wine experiences I've had locally. I learned much about Plavac Mali, having visited numerous vineyards and wineries, and tasted a variety of the wines. That diversity is compelling, as you can enjoy fresh and light Plavac Mali wines, as well as heavier, more robust wines that will age very well. So, you can enjoy Plavac Mali with a wide assortment of foods, just dependent on which style you prefer. If you enjoy red wine, you should experience the pleasures of Plavac Mali.

My article, Volarević Winery: Organic Rakija & The Complexity of Plavac Mali, provides more information about Plavac Mali, its origins, as well as the efforts to study and research this fascinating grape. In some respects, and despite the long history of Plavac Mali, there is still much to learn about this grape, and that that times, research and experimentation. As I said in that article, "This is a grape which can present greatness, which can compare well to other famed red grapes around the world." 

If you're interested in trying some Plavac Mali, Croatian Premium Wine Imports is offering a special Plavac Mali bundle, which includes 3 different Plavac Mali wines with a 15% discount. If you just want a single bottle of Plavac Mali, they offer over 20 different wines, and my personal favorites are from the Volarević winery.

How will you celebrate International Plavac Mali Wine Day?

National Monte Cristo Day: The Origins of This Delicious Sandwich

Happy National Monte Cristo Day! 

For over 100 years, the Monte Cristo has existed although the exact date of its invention is unknown. The sandwich holiday was established in 2015, by the Bennigan’s restaurant chain, to honor their own Monte Cristo sandwich, which is made with honey wheat bread, ham, roasted turkey, Swiss and American cheeses before it's batter-dipped, gently fried, and dusted with powdered sugar. It's also served with red raspberry preserves, if you wish to dip it. 

A Monte Cristo sandwich is essentially ham, turkey and Swiss cheese between two pieces of French toast, though there are plenty of variations across the country. For example, the cheese might be different, the sandwich might be grilled or fried, it may contain spicy mustard, it might be served with maple syrup, and so on.  

I've long been fond of the Monte Cristo, although I prefer it as a savory variation. I don't want it covered by powdered sugar or syrup. What makes it special to me is the French toast bread, a great vehicle for the ham, turkey and cheese, but which also would make an excellent vehicle for plenty of other fillings as well. I enjoyed such variations as pastrami and cheese, chicken cutlets, and cheeseburger, each of which was elevated by the use of French toast. We need more sandwiches with French Toast as the bread! 

No one seems to know the exact origins of the Monte Cristo though it's believed to be a variation of the French croque-monsieur, which is a grilled ham and cheese sandwich, with numerous variations, that was likely invented in the late nineteenth century. Literally translated, "croque monsieur" basically means "mister crunch." The sandwich became famous when it appeared at a French cafe, Le Bel Âge, owned by Michel Lunarca, in Paris around 1910. 

However, the croque-monsieur received almost no publicity in U.S. newspapers until about 1928, years after the Monte Cristo was created. The earliest reference I found to the croque-monsieur was in the Boston Evening Transcript (MA), April 11, 1908. There was an article about a lunch at a Paris restaurant, and one of the offerings was a croque-monsieur, for 50 cents, and the article noted, "We have no idea what croque monsieur or Orloff  veal might be,..."

The next reference was from The Reading Eagle (PA), August 29, 1915, which discussed local women contributing recipes to a cookbook intended to help Belgian war sufferers. One contributor provided a recipe for croque-monsieur. And then there no other newspaper references until 1928.

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Although most sources allege the Monte Cristo was created during the 1920s, it seems more probable it was created during the 1910s, and maybe the later half of that decade. The earliest reference I found to this sandwich was in the San Francisco Chronicle (CA), February 18, 1920, which printed a restaurant advertisement for Tait’s Downtown. The large ad detailed a Special After-Theater Supper, and listed numerous dishes of which you could choose two. Under Sandwiches, there was a mention of the Monte Cristo, although no explanation was given.

It also seems probable that the Monte Cristo originated in California, as all of the mentions of the sandwich during the 1920s and early 1930s indicated it was available in California, and there weren't any references to it being available elsewhere. A Hawaiian newspaper in 1929 provided a recipe for the Monte Cristo, but didn't indicate that any Hawaiian restaurants offered the sandwich. It's curious that no one has ever stepped forward to claim credit for inventing the sandwich. 

The Los Angeles Times (CA), May 24, 1924 and Sacramento Union (CA), June 6, 1924, both printed the same recipe for the Monte Cristo Sandwich, the first newspapers to do so. The sandwiches contained only American full cream choice and slices of boiled ham, and not any turkey. The sandwiches though were dipped in egg and fried. 

The San Francisco Chronicle (CA), May 11, 1927, published a restaurant ad which offered a Monte Cristo Sandwich for 50 cents, the same price as their Chicken Sandwich. 

A reader submitted a recipe for the Monte Cristo sandwich to the San Francisco Examiner (CA), May 23, 1927. This recipe was different from the previous one, using pimento cheese with boiled ham. In addition, it called for a tablespoon of cocktail sauce. It too was dipped in beaten egg and fried. 

The San Francisco Examiner (CA), May 27, 1927, provided another recipe, and also stated that the Monte Cristo was a “tearoom specialty.” This is the first recipe to use Swiss cheese with the boiled ham, although still no turkey. 

The San Antonio Light (TX), October 18, 1928, Omaha Morning Bee-News (NE), October 19, 1928, and El Paso Times (TX), October 20, 1928, all briefly mentioned, “Snapshots of Hollywood collected at random: Seena Owen and Mae Sunday gossiping over a Monte Cristo sandwich at the Montmartre café.”

The Los Angeles Evening Citizen News (CA), February 8, 1929, printed another recipe, called for a specific bread, the Langendorf Royal bread, a famous bread brand at that time. This recipe called for cream cheese, mashed with a little cream. It also asked for a slice of chicken or ham. Then, it's mentioned that it should be served with jelly or relish, the first time this addition is noted. 

The Los Angeles Times (CA), August 9, 1929,  provided a recipe almost exactly as they previously did on May 24, 1924, except this time they mentioned garnishing it with pickle slices. 

The Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), August 29, 1929, was the first non-California newspaper to provide a Monte Cristo recipe, but this was simply a copy of the one above from the Los Angeles Times.  

The San Jose Evening News (CA), May 5, 1930, had an advertisement for a Coffee Shop with a partial menu, including a Monte Cristo Sandwich for 50 cents. 

It wasn't until 1934, that it seems likely the Monte Cristo started being available outside of California. The Tulsa Tribune (OK), December 3, 1934, printed a recipe for the sandwich, provided by Chef Harry Micas. It was noted to be "an unusual sandwich," good for lunch or a midnight feast. First, the bread was covered in egg with milk or cream, and then fried. After that, the bread was topped with boiled ham, chicken meat and a slice of cheese. Finally, it was toasted under a broiler, and served with spiced apricot. This may be the first recipe calling for both ham and chicken (but not turkey). It's also the first that calls for milk or cream added to the egg before coating the bread. 

The Des Moines Tribune (IA), December 22, 1934, in an ad for Harvest Bread, provided a recipe from Herman, the Health Chef. The recipe called for Swiss cheese and slices of Baked Virginia ham, but no poultry. The sandwich was also to be dipped in beaten egg, "similar to the method of making French toast." Curiously, the sandwich was served with tomato sauce, which is definitely a rarity for this sandwich. 

The Los Angeles Times (CA), January 29, 1935, offered a recipe calling for Tillamook cheese and boiled ham. No poultry was included. 

The San Diego Union (CA), March 19, 1936, published a recipe which called for boiled ham, sliced chicken and Kraft's American cheese. It also called for Nuco, "for spreading," although I'm unable to determine what that was. It also called for Snowdrift, "for deep frying," and that was a vegetable shortening commonly used for frying. 

A brief mention in the Los Angeles Times (CA), June 7, 1936, noted, “Peter Lorre favors the Monte Cristo sandwich as an article of diet,..” Peter Lorre was a famous actor, having appeared in some classics such as Casablanca and The Maltese Falcon.

The Oakland Tribune (CA), September 20, 1936, discussed an upcoming Tribune Homemakers Forum, where Chef “Joe” Beyl of the Athens Club, would "present three of his most popular recipes for the late-supper menus: Lobster Thermidore, Monte Cristo Sandwich and Tomato Stuffed with Tuna.” 

The Sexton Cook Book for the Sexton Market (1937) by John Sexton & Co., printed a recipe, by Frank Hurliman, for the Monte Cristo Sandwich. It only called for ham and cheese, with the addition of tomato, which was maybe the first such addition.  

The Modesto Bee (CA), February 2, 1937, had its own recipe, and called for three slices of bread, making it more like a club sandwich. It called for boiled ham and cheese, as well as chicken, lamb, pork or turkey. The sandwich was then dipped in a blend of egg, salt, pepper, and milk before it was fried. This may be the first mention of the use of turkey for this sandwich.   

The Highland Park News-Herald (CA), March 26, 1937, also had a recipe calling for three slices of bread, but it only called for cheese and Hormel's spiced luncheon meat. It was also served with Iris Currant jelly.  

The Los Angeles Times (CA), November 25, 1937, also called for three slices of bread, with a layer of ham, topped with mustard, and a layer of turkey with mayonnaise. Curiously, the recipe didn't call for any cheese. 

There was an interesting article in a London newspaper, dealing with a Monte Cristo sandwich served at the Warner's Bros film studio. The Daily Mirror (London), May 3, 1938, had a Hollywood page where the writer mentioned, “I often go to lunch at Warners,…because there is something on the menu there which I have never met anywhere else. It is called a Monte Cristo sandwich and it is no doubt very fattening and indigestible. But I keep on ordering it because I can never quite figure out how it’s made. It seems to be thin bread fried in a cheesy batter with thin slices of chicken and ham between. It is served on lettuce with a pickled peach and it is better and more elusive than it sounds.”

In a follow-up, The Daily Mirror (London), July 6, 1938, noted that Miss Gail Patrick, a famous actress who married the manager of the Brown Derby restaurant, had written down many of their best recipes. She provided the writer with their recipe for a Monte Cristo sandwich, which called for three slices of bread, ham, chicken and cheese. The sandwich pieces were set upon crisp lettuce, and a pickled peach was placed into the middle of the plate.  

The Modesto Bee (CA), December 17, 1938, ran an ad for the Schurra’s restaurant, which stated, “Try Our Monte Cristo Sandwich. Something New and Different.”

The Standard Star (NY), September 29, 1939, provided advice for visitors to Holloywood, including, “Food: One of the first things you have when in California is a Monte Cristo sandwich. It is delicious and substantial, I might add. It is a club sandwich affair which has sliced chicken, a layer of melted cheese and then one of ham. The concoction is then dipped in an egg batter and fried in a deep fat. The results are very tasty.”

The St. Joseph Gazette (MO), February 12, 1941, published an ad for a hotel, which offered “Ladies’ Lunches” and their special that day was “Hot Monte Cristo Sandwich, vegetable, potatoes, salad, dessert, beverage” for 45 cents. 

The Nevada State Journal (NV), September 17, 1942, ran an ad for a club which served supper snacks from 10:30pm to closing, including a Monte Cristo Sandwich for 75 cents. 

The Oregon Daily Journal (OR), January 18, 1948, published an ad for the Pago Pago restaurant, which had late evening specialties, including “The Monte Cristo Sandwich.”

The Minneapolis Star (MN), November 17, 1948, mentioned that local chef, Dale Kirkpatrick, named the Monte Cristo as his favorite. His recipe then called for only two slices of bread, with ham, cheese, and chicken or turkey. It was served with sweet pickle relish and potato chips.  

Monte Cristo sandwiches in Australia! Maybe the first newspaper mention of this sandwich in Australia was in The Mercury (Tasmania, Australia), June 2, 1949, which had this brief recipe, calling only for ham and cheese.  

The Galveston Daily News (TX), October 9, 1949, ran a restaurant ad, which offered a Monte Cristo Sandwich, Olives, Sliced Tomato, and Potato Chips, for $1.

Over the next decades, the Monte Cristo's popularity would continue to grow, although currently, the sandwich has decreased in popularity and much fewer restaurants offer it on their menus. It's time for the sandwich to make a come-back, was well as for other sandwiches to use French Toast as their bread.

As I've shown, the Monte Cristo likely originated in California during the 1910s, and it seems to have taken about 15 years for the sandwich to be created in restaurants in other states. However, recipes to make the Monte Cristo were presented in a number of newspapers across the country for home cooks to try. We also see that the nature of the sandwich varied over the years, and continues to come in a number of variations. We may never know exactly who invented the sandwich, but we owe that person a debt for creating such a delicious sandwich.  

Murray's Tavern: Croatian Wine Dinner

Superb seafood and lamb, delicious and intriguing Croation wines. It was quite an event, and the attendees all seemed to thoroughly enjoy the wine dinner.   

Recently, I was invited as a media guest to attend a Croatian Wine Dinner at Murray's Tavern in Revere. Owned and operated by brothers John and Greg Murray, the restaurant was established in May 2021, over five years ago. Their menu serves elevated classics, and is diverse and interesting, with some of their dishes include Spanish Octopus, Chicken Parmigiana Eggrolls, Irish Beef Stew, Chicken Schnitzel Piccata, Bolognese, Shrimp Scampi, and Skillet Mac and Cheese. They have a full liquor license and serve many local beers and their own inventive cocktails. It's a homey, neighborhood spot, a place for dinner for family and friends. 

John Murray was one of the hosts of the dinner, and he's very personable and clearly has a true passion for wine and food. 

Two of the other hosts were Mirena Bagur and Win Burke, the owners of Croatian Premium Wine Imports. For over five years, they have been importing over 100 Croatian wines into the U.S., and promoting Croatian wines all across the country. Through their website, you can get their wines delivered to most places across the country. I've known them since 2019, and they have become good friends. 

I'm also an ardent fan of Croatian wines, and have traveled to Croatia twice with Mirena and Win, having visited about 35 wineries, and tasted over 600 Croatian wines. Croatia produces plenty of excellent wines, of all different types, including Whites, Reds, Sparkling, Rosé, and Orange Wines. You can check out my 85+ articles about Croatia in my compilation post, All About Croatia. Those articles cover a range of topics from Croatian cuisine to the history of Croatia, from wine reviews to winery visits. If you haven't tried Croatian wines, you should seek them out. 

The guest chef for the wine dinner was Chef Johnny Sheehan, pictured above, whose primary restaurant is now at the Porto restaurant. Sheehan started working in restaurants at age 14, starting by washing dishes. He eventually graduated from Le Cordon Bleu culinary school in Cambridge. He has worked in a number of restaurants in the Boston+ area. He has also visited Croatia, exploring its culinary scene, and worked with local chefs there. He spent time with Chef Sasa Began at the Labrax restaurant, located in Zadar, and this visit inspired the food menu for the Croatian Wine Dinner. 

The menu was seafood-heavy, and as I love seafood, that was very appealing, and all of the seafood was prepared well, showcasing its flavors. His lamb dish was also excellent, and it's clear that Chef Sheehan is very talented. 

The dinner began in the bar area, where all of the attendees, about 35 in all, could mingle, enjoy some wine, oysters and shrimp cocktail. There were two local oysters, Duxbury and Wellfleet, both with a green apple and apricot mignonette. I enjoyed both oysters, offering that tasty briny element, but my preference were the larger Wellfleet ones. The mignonette was a nice accent to the oysters, adding a hint of sweetness and some acidity.   

The Shrimp Cocktail offered plump, tender shrimp with a slightly spicy cocktail sauce. A very good way to begin the wine dinner. 

The first wine of the evening was the 2023 Volarević Pošip, and Pošip is a perfect choice for pairing with oysters and other seafood. The Volarević winery, in the Komarna region, is one of my favorites in Croatia. The Pošip for this wine was produced on the island of Korčula, which some claim was the birthplace of Marco Polo. The wine is complex, crisp, and compelling, with a fine melange of flavors, including citrus, peach, and a hint of almonds. It's medium-bodied and possesses a lengthy, pleasing finish. It's an excellent wine for summer weather or paired with seafood. With the briny oysters, it was a superb pairing! 

After the oysters and shrimp, we were seated in the dining room and our first course was Pan Seared Scallops, with a corn puree, Chanterelle mushroom, and a summer succotash. A well balanced and delicious dish! The scallops were tender and sweet, and the corn puree was an excellent sauce (and I feel that scallops and corn is such a harmonious pairing). The earthy mushrooms provided a nice balance to the sweetness, along with some of the different elements of the succotash. The plating was also very enticing. A great start to the meal.

The wine pairing was the 2022 Zure Grk, from Korčula/Dalmatia. "Grk," which means "bitter" in Croatia, is also known as Grk Bijeli. It's a rare grape, and is primarily grown on the island of Korčula. Much of the Grk, which grows in sandy soils, evaded phylloxera because of those sandy soils. The grapes in this wine saw a bit of skin contact. It's a bigger white wine, smooth and tasty, with mild tannins, subtle fruit flavors and hints of spice. Complex and intriguing, it was one of my favorite wines of the dinner, and worked very well with the scallops.  

The second course was Ahi Tuna Steak, with a strawberry balsamic reduction and insalata verde. The tender tuna, which was cooked perfectly, was delicious, especially with the sweetness of the reduction, and balanced out with the more bitter greens.

With the tuna, we enjoyed the 2023 Volarević Plavac Mali Rosé La Chic, which is produced from 100% Plavac Mali, the most dominant red grape in the Dalmatian region. It only sees stainless steel, and had a rich pink color. It's a dry and crisp Rosé, with bright red fruit flavors, especially strawberry and watermelon. A pleasant summery wine, and it did well with the tuna. It would probably be a good choice for Thanksgiving dinner as well. 

The third course was Grilled Lamb Chops, with a salsa verde, smashed potato, and swiss chard. The three chops constituted a very hearty dish, and the lamb was tender and delicious, enhanced by the salsa verde. The lamb wasn't gamey at all, and was cooked just right, making quite a superb dish. This is a dish that calls for a bigger red wine, and that's what we received. 

The 2022 Rizman Tribidrag is primarily produced from the native grape Tribidag, with a small percentage of Tempranillo. You might have tasted Tribidag before, as it has spread from Croatia to Italy and California. In Italy, it's known as Primitivo while in California, it's known as Zinfandel. Yes, Zinfandel, which is often seen as an American grape, actually originated in Croatia! The grapes for this wine were from the Komarna region, and the wine was aged in old French and American barrels for about 8-10 months. It's a bigger, bolder wine, with moderate tannins, and a complex blend of flavors, including ripe plums, black cherry, chocolate, and spice notes. A lengthy finish, well balanced, and perfect for lamb chops to steak. Why not try the original Zinfandel? 

For dessert, I thoroughly enjoyed Grandma’s Chocolate Cake, with a cherry cola buttercream, almond brittle, and vanilla gelato. Such a delicious mix of textures and flavors, it actually seemed like a light dish. The buttercream was light and creamy, and the cake was moist and full of chocolate flavors. An excellent way to end the dinner.  

With dessert, we drank the 2015 BIBICh Bas de Bas Crno, a blend of 90% Syrah and 10% Merlot. In an episode of No Reservations, Anthony Bourdain visited the BIBICh winery, and this wine was one of his top favorites. This wine, only made in certain vintages, is oaked for about 2 years. This is a powerhouse of a wine, yet with sufficient restraint so that it doesn't overwhelm. Bold tannins, strong black fruit flavors, a spicy backbone, and a lengthy finish. It's an impressive wine, well balanced, and would also pair well with a juicy steak or game meat. 

After dessert, we were presented with one additional wine, the 2021 Crvik Amber Blaise, an orange/skin contact wine, made from the Malvasia Dubrovačka grape, which has existed since the time of the ancient Greeks. The grapes for this wine were fermented in a barrel, and then aged with the pomace for about eight months, and then aged for another four months without the pomace. I've previously enjoyed the 2017 vintage, and the 2021 vintage is very similar. The wine is complex and intriguing, with a fascinating melange of flavors, including peach, almonds, orange peel, floral notes, and a subtle mineral aspect. Excellent acidity, well-integrated tannins, and a lengthy finish. There is so much going on in each sip, and you could easily sit and savor a glass for hours, reveling in what can be found with each taste. 

Many thanks to John Murray, Mirena Bagur, Win Burke, and Chef Johnny Sheehan, for presenting a fun, delicious and informative Croatian Wine dinner. So, I recommend that you dine at  Murray's Tavern and Porto, and also order some Croatian wines from Croatian Premium Wine Imports. 

Rant: DON'T DRINK & DRIVE.....OR ELSE!

Yesterday, I drove by the sight in North Reading where, in August, a 21-year-old man, alleged to be a drunk driver, rear ended another vehicle, killing a father and his 8-year old daughter. A horrific tragedy but one which could have been avoided if the young driver had followed a simple bit of advice. 

DON'T DRINK & DRIVE!!!!

For everyone else, let me once again give you this important advice. It couldn't be any simpler so please listen carefully. This is one of the most important pieces of advice you'll receive this holiday season. Please, please, please give this your full attention!

If you've had too much alcohol to drink, if there's any, absolutely any, doubt in your mind, don't drive. Just don't do it! Any questions? 

Once again, I step forward with probably my most important Rant of the Year. It's an absolutely vital issue for everyone who enjoys alcohol of any type, from wine to beer, from Scotch to hard cider. With the imminent advent of the holiday season we reach a potentially dangerous period for those people who over indulge, who drink too much at parties, feasts and gatherings. There is nothing wrong with that, and you can drink as much as you desire, as long as you give up your keys to someone who is sober, and you do not drive.

As I've said multiple times before, and which I'll repeat year after year, "If there is any question, no matter how small, whether you are too intoxicated to drive, then don't. If your family or friends think you have had too much to drink, don't drive. Just don't. It is not worth the risk by any calculation." Err on the side of caution so that if you have any doubt of your capacity to drive, then please don't drive. Take a taxi or Uber, catch a ride with someone else, walk or sleep it off. Just don't drive!

Rationally, we all know the dangers of drinking and driving. We endanger our own lives as well as the lives of others. Every year, we hear multiple news reports about terrible auto accidents, some with fatalities, that occur because a driver was intoxicated. Families are torn apart, lives are ruined, and much more. Why don't we learn from all these incidents? Even if you don't get in an accident, you might get arrested for drunk driving, with all the attendant high costs, and not just economic. You might even end up in jail.

About 8,000 people were arrested for drunk driving in Massachusetts in 2024, and about 75% of those arrested were men. That's a huge figure, showing that far too many people still don't understand that they should not drink and drive. Did you know that if you only had two drinks in a hour, you might still have a blood alcohol level over the legal limit? How difficult is it to understand? DON'T DRINK & DRIVE! I'm sure drunk driving incidents in other states are just as significant.

As a more sobering statistic, 12,429 people (including over 280 children) in the U.S. were killed in drunk driving accidents in 2023. In 2021 and 2022, each year had seen over 13,000 fatalities, so the numbers have decreased a small amount, but that's obviously still far too many deaths. It needs to change and change now. 

Each time you drink and drive, you endanger yourself, your passengers, pedestrians, cyclists, and people in other vehicles. Let someone else drive you, whether it be a friend or family. Take an Uber or public transportation. Leave your car where it is parked as you can always pick it up the next day. You have plenty of options so there is absolutely no reason to drink and drive. Be responsible.

I don't want to lose any family or friends this year due to a drunk driving accident. I don't think anyone wants to lose their loved ones either. Your family and friends would rather you didn't drink and drive as they don't you to die in a terrible drunk driving accident. So please just don't!

I should also add that this applies to driving while under the influence of any drug, from marijuana to cocaine. Drugs also negatively alter your driving abilities, and legally you can be charged with operating under the influence of those drugs, and not just alcohol. 

DON'T DRINK & DRIVE.....OR ELSE!

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) The Boston Pizza Festival has announced the lineup of participating pizzerias set to take over City Hall Plaza when New England’s largest consumer pizza event returns on Saturday, September 19 and Sunday, September 20 from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

This year’s festival will bring together a collection of celebrated pizzerias, local favorites, and pizza makers representing a variety of styles and traditions. From New Haven-style apizza and Neapolitan-inspired pies to Detroit-style pizza and creative modern interpretations, attendees will have the opportunity to sample their way through an impressive lineup over the course of the two-day event.

Participating pizzerias include: Sally’s Apizza, Evviva Trattoria, CeCarré Pizza & Provisions, Ciao! Pizza and Pasta, Wicked Cheesy, Pizza Taxi, Quattro, Peppino’s Pizza, Eataly, Annies Pizzeria, Nutella Paradise, Central Cafe, McGonagle’s Pub, Pizzeria Rustico, Know Your Roll, American Flatbread, Palencia’s Pizza, PaPPo’s Pizzeria & Pub, Copperdome Crust, Lala’s Neapolitan-ish Pizza, Motor City Pizza, Mamma Mia’s, Gio’s, and Fiero Forni.

Pizza Taxi is traveling from Vico Equense, Italy, to offer attendees the opportunity to experience authentic Italian pizza without leaving City Hall Plaza.

Each participating pizzeria will fire up handcrafted Fiero Group artisan ovens throughout the weekend to prepare fresh pies on-site. The Boston Pizza Festival will also team up with Sam Adams to offer beer selections available alongside wines from Vinzo’s Wine. Beyond the pizza, the two-day celebration will feature an interactive pizza-making demonstration with The Dough Connection, along with live music and entertainment throughout the weekend.

Tickets for the 2026 Boston Pizza Festival are now on sale. All guests must purchase a $10 Admission Ticket, which includes entry into the event and two pizza slices with any toppings of their choice. Additional slice packages, available exclusively as add-ons, allow attendees to customize their experience with options including The Love Triangle (3 slices), The Pizza Lover (5 slices), and The Whole Fam (10 slices). Add-on packages do not grant event entry on their own.

Admission will increase to $15 on September 19 and 20, the weekend of the event. For tickets and additional information, please visit www.bostonpizzafestival.com 

2) In honor of National Bourbon Month, Vermilion, Michelin-starred chef John Fraser’s contemporary chophouse at Boston’s Winthrop Center, is offering a limited-time $35 Burger & Bourbon pairing throughout September. Available all day at the bar, the special includes Vermilion’s signature burger and an Angel’s Envy cocktail, a Smoked Old Fashioned.

Created by Executive Chef Justin Urso, Vermilion’s burger puts an elevated spin on a chophouse classic with ingredients including Pat LaFrieda beef, sourced from Fraser’s preferred butcher of more than 20 years, is freshly ground each day and formed in-house into 80/20 blend patties. Each burger is also served on a house-made brioche bun, baked fresh in Vermilion’s kitchen. The result is a carefully crafted burger that feels both indulgent and approachable, and an ideal match for bourbon.

3) Maple & Ash is bringing a fall favorite to its home in the Seaport: Prime Rib. Beginning September 13, on Sundays, from 5-10pm, the steakhouse will serve a weekly special on– fire-roasted black garlic prime rib with au jus, paired with creamed spinach and a bone marrow popover – on Sunday evenings ($95 per guest). Maple & Ash’s executive chef Jorge Campos will lead the team in butchering and dry-aging the decadent primal cuts of beef in-house. 

Also beginning September 13, Maple & Ash will expand its dinner service to seven nights weekly, adding Sunday and Monday to its reservation availability. From it’s "I Don't Give a F*@K" tasting menu to its Boston-exclusive bar menu and á la carte signature creations, Maple & Ash will open nightly to serve guests in its dining room, bar and lounge area, as well as its recently debuted all-season terrace overlooking the Superette.