Happy 2nd Anniversary To Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet!

Happy 2nd Anniversary, and Best Wishes for many more years to come, to the owners of Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet in Melrose. 

Today, Saturday, August 15, is their 2nd Anniversary. Two years ago, when I first met the new owners, Vijay, Puja, Andy, and Brian, it was with a little trepidation as we discussed their plans for the shop. That's a normal situation for employees when new owners take on any existing business. It raises a number of questions in your mind. What's their objective for the business? How will the business change? Will the staff be retained?

As I've mentioned before, their initial answers were very positive, and uttered with complete sincerity, so that my trepidations soon vanished. They wanted the shop to be an artisan wine, beer and spirits store. They certainly didn't want to turn it into a generic package or convenience store, and didn't want to add lottery or cigarettes. They also planned on retaining any of the staff who desired to work there. Finally, although there would be changes, they hoped it would only be positive ones, those which would further their primary objective. 

During their first year, I was pleased that they lived up to everything they told me on that first day. All of the new owners were sincere and hardworking, fully open to suggestions from all of the staff. Now, two years later, I'm even more pleased with the direction of the shop. There have been additional changes during the past year, and more changes are planned for the future. And all of these changes have continued to enhancing their original objective. 

If you've visited the shop during the past two years, you may have seen Puja, who's the primary owner of Victoria Hill, responsible for the day to day operations. She has been instrumental in helping it become a destination shop, not just a neighborhood store, a place which attracts people from all of the surrounding communities and not just Melrose. In large part, this is accomplished by offering products that aren't available at many other local wine and liquor shops, including the big box shops. The diversity of their selection continues to always expand, and have been greatly embraced by the customers. Puja constantly and actively seeks out new wines for the shop. 

For example, the wine selections, numbering around 600, usually include offerings from over 25 different countries, including less commonly available wines from regions including Croatia, Lebanon, Georgia, Armenia, Bulgaria, Serbia, Mexico, Palestine, Ukraine, Slovenia, Hungary, and more. Wines from additional countries are also added when good choices become available. 

The first time I've ever tasted wines from Palestine and the Ukraine was when they became available at the shop. I hadn't previously seen them at any other local shop. These have been delicious wines, indicative of the potential of these lesser known wine producing countries. And many customers have indicated their happiness at being able to obtain these more unique wines.     

To expand the wine selection, adding maybe another 50 or so wines, a couple new wooden wine shelves have been recently added. These shelves have not yet been stocked, but plans are in the works to fill them in the near future. One element of this plan is to expand the Italian wine section, adding even more red wines from all across Italy.   

The shop also stocks about 350 "Natural Wines," a significant amount more than a year ago. The term "Natural Wines," is used as an overall designation for wines that are Biodynamic, organic, sustainable, or similarly produced, whether certified or not. To more easily locate the Natural wines, you simply have to check the wine price labels, shown above, and look for an "N" in the right hand corner. More Natural wines continue to be added all the time.  

As the holiday season approaches, even more wines will be added, included more higher end wines, which are great gifts for family and friends. If you are seeking more unique wines to give as gifts, or want to drink something special at your holiday gatherings, come here and we can find something to meet your desires.

The store also carries a variety of interesting and delicious Sakes, including Junmai, Honjozo, Ginjo, Daiginjo, Sparkling Sake and more. There are even a few Natural Sakes, which are very uncommon. If you need help selecting Sake, just ask me while I'm working and I'll be more than willing to assist you. We'll likely have a Sake Tasting around the start of October to celebrate International Sake Day, which is on October 1.

There's a chiller unit, which mostly contains wines, including Sparkling wines, White wines, Rosé wines, Orange wines and even chillable Red wines.  

Besides the diverse wine selection, the Beer chiller also contains an excellent assortment, about 200, of craft beers and ciders, many from New England breweries, as well as some of the usual favorites, from Modelo to Budweiser. New beers and ciders are added all the time, including seasonal selections. And yes, pumpkin beers are now being stocked! Customers have been very complimentary about the beer selection. 

The Spirits selection, from whiskey to mezcal, rum to tequila, vodka to liqueurs, is diverse as well, including some harder to find selections, from Blanton's Bourbon to Chartreuse, although such spirits aren't always available as only limited amounts are received. For example of the diversity, there are now Gins from all over the world, such as from Greece, Japan, Ireland, Mexico and other countries and U.S. states. Local spirits can also be found, from producers such as Barr Hill and Short Path. 

There are a number of snacks available, from popcorn to potato chips, chocolate to crackers. There is also a chiller containing a variety of cheese, including a few from one of my favorites, Tillamook. 

I continue to conduct Wine Tastings every Thursday evening, from 5-7pm, and every Saturday afternoon, from 1-4pm. The tastings showcase diverse wines, exposing many customers to wines, countries and grapes they have never previously sampled. Customers have been very appreciative of this approach, and open to tasting more unique wines. They have often found new favorite wines, buying wines they wouldn't have purchased on their own, wary of buying a wine they've never experienced or knew little about. There have also been plenty of repeat customers who regularly come to the tastings to experience these new wines. 

On Friday nights, there are also often additional tastings, mainly conducted by distributors, of Wine, Beer or Spirits. Please come by any of these tastings to expand your palate and taste some delicious and fascinating new wines, beers and spirits.  

Many thanks go to Vijay, Puja, Andy, and Brian, for creating an excellent store, for carrying a diverse and interesting selection, and for being open to suggestions. They have worked very hard during these past two years, and it has been a real pleasure to work for them. 

If you live in Melrose, check out Victoria Hill and see what your neighborhood wine, beer & spirits shop has to offer. If you live outside Melrose, please also check out this destination spot as you are likely to find plenty of selections that aren't available at your own neighborhood wine shop. And please come to the tastings and learn more about the wonders of wines, beer and spirits from all over the world! 

Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet
538 Main Street, Melrose
(781) 665-3332
Hours of Operation: Monday to Wednesday: 10am-8pm, Thursday to Saturday: 10am-9pm; 

Sunday: 10am-7pm. 

Follow the shop on Facebook and Instagram

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) Chef Brendan Pelley, a Chelmsford native, has announced the official opening of his new concept Kri Kri Grill. Located at 18 Boston Road, Kri Kri Grill is a deeply personal venture for Chef Brendan Pelley that is inspired by his Greek-American heritage. Kri Kri Grill opened to the public on Friday, August 7.

Kri Kri Grill is a local and family owned counter service restaurant honoring the tavernas of Chef Brendan Pelley’s youth and the traditional Greek tavernas he fell in love with during extensive travels throughout Greece. The name of the new concept honors the Kri Kri, a wild mountain goat of Crete that is known for its authenticity, resilience and deep ties to the land.

Kri Kri Grill embodies the spirit of Greek cuisine and culture which is honest, humble and rooted in tradition. Chef Brendan Pelley is third generation Greek-American and the menu celebrates his heritage and roots with some unexpected takes on the classics. Everything is made in house, from the fresh pita bread to the ice cream, using traditional techniques and sourcing the best seasonal ingredients. Each meal is cooked to order and guests can indulge in a menu packed with family recipes and Greek staples that are elevated by Chef Brendan Pelley’s authenticity:

Appetizers - made with comforting family recipes for avgolemono soup, grilled dolmades and Papou’s spanakopita
Pitas & Bowls - customizable options with house made pita bread or Greek rice, paired with hand stacked and slow roasted proteins such as Harissa Chicken, Spiced Lamb Meatballs, and Roasted Garlic and Miso Pork
Salads - three signature options Kri Kri Salad, Shredded Cabbage Salad, and Greek Caesar with options to add protein
Traditional Plates - hearty taverna style favorites such as Baked Lamb Shank, Chicken Lemonata, Taverna Eggplant, and Pastitsio
Blackboard Specials - a daily rotating sustainable selection of fish and seafood, and additions highlighting seasonally foraged ingredients
Sides - hand cut Greek fries, tomato rice, orzo salad, and green beans
Sweet Touches - house made ice cream in flavors such as Greek coffee, Vanilla & Olive Oil, Baklava and the Kri Kri Sundae with tahini caramel and candied sour cherries. There is also Chef’s personal homage to the historic Chelmsford Ginger Ale with a nostalgic float
Beverages - A selection of imported Greek beers and funky Greek wines by the glass and bottle, alongside Greek café beverages.

The intimate space has indoor seating for 36 and a seasonal outdoor patio space will debut later this summer. In addition to dining in, Kri Kri Grill is available for takeout, delivery and has a corporate and events catering program. Kri Kri Grill is open Tuesday through Saturday from 11:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m., and will eventually be open 7 days a week with extended hours on Friday and Saturday.

An Early History of Anchovies On Pizza: The First Topping

Do you like anchovies on pizza?

Nowadays, many people dislike anchovies on pizza, and the dominant topping is pepperoni. However, that wasn't always the case. In fact, anchovies were the first pizza topping in the U.S., and were very common in the early 20th century. And there were people who criticized anyone who didn't like anchovies on their pizza.

Anchovies were common on pizza in Naples before pizza ever came to the U.S. Anchovies were cheap, offered much umami flavor, and could be stored well for a lengthy time. When Neapolitans immigrants brought pizza to the U.S., it was only natural that many of those pizzas would be topped with anchovies. Otherwise, the pizzas were just topped with cheese. Pizza likely came to the U.S. in the late 19th century, although documentation of such first appears in the early 20th century. 

One of the first newspaper articles mentioning Neapolitan pizza is found in the Boston Sunday Journal (MA), October 4, 1903. It stated, “Scattered through North and Prince streets and other portions of the Italian colony where Neapolitans congregate are occasional little shops with the words ‘Pizze Cavuie’ on the windows. The words mean simply ‘hot cakes’ in the Neapolitan dialect.” The article continued, “Neapolitans in Boston say that there are few places in the city to which the famous Naples specialty has been successfully transplanted.”

The article also described how the pizza was created, starting with a fat roll of dough that was flattened until was is a little thicker than a pancake and a little larger than an ordinary pie. The top of the pizza was then topped with bits of lard, Roman cheese, cooked tomatoes, and aregata, “.., the spicy, aromatic herb which is a favorite Italian seasoning.” This would have been a blend of dried herbs like oregano, basil, rosemary, and thyme. The pizza would then be put it in an oven for two minutes.

A pizza cost 5-10 cents, dependent on its size. It was also noted that, “In Naples the price ranges from 10 cents down to a penny for little ones containing only a good-sized mouthful. A favorite cry for them at the doors of the bakeries in Naples is “Ca’ pummarola e alice,’ which is dialect for “with tomatoes and anchovy, some of them being made with anchovy there, though the fish is never added here.” So, it appears the first pizza spots in Boston offered only cheese pizza, without any anchovies.

About two years later, a very similar article appeared in the New York Herald (NY), June 18, 1905. It seems that the two articles might have been written by the same person, due to some of the same content, although part of the article was directed to New York. For example, it was said that there were only two places in New York where you could get “real genuine Neapolitan pizza.” It continued, “One is on Spring street and one on Gran. All the rest are Americanized substitutes.”

The article described how the pizza was made, and that mirrored the information from the Boston Sunday Journal article. The article also noted, “Pizze Cavuie means simply hot cakes. You won’t find the words in the dictionary, because they aren’t Italian, but Neapolitan dialect.” It was also said that anchovies weren't yet found on any New York pizzas.

A pizza definition. A book, Explanations of All Terms used in Cooking-Cellaring by Kurt Heppe (1908) provided the definition: “Pizza—a Neapolitan cake with oil, tomatoes and anchovies.” As we see, anchovies were considered a basic component of pizza.

There is then about a twenty year gap then in newspaper coverage concerning pizza, which mentions it numerous times but provides little detail. Anchovies likely became more common during this period, and by the late 1920s, were dominant. There would be a few exceptions during the late 1920s and 1930s, but they were more outliers. 

The Buffalo Courier Express (NY), February 6, 1928, mentioned the opening of Dante’s Tavern, and some of their some specials included “pizza d’anchovies, pizza di sardi and pizza di formaggio.” Pizza with anchovies, sardines or cheese. 

The Passaic Daily News (NJ), December 13, 1928, noted that pizza was a cake or pie that was topped by tomatoes, anchovies, and cheese. 

The American Guardian (OK), May 24, 1929, provided a bit more description. “Pizzeria is a bakery which specializes in pizza, a pie served with anchovies and tomato sauce and dear to the Neapolitan palate.” So, it seems many pizzerias were considered bakeries, and not restaurants. The article also seems to indicate that Neapolitan pizza came with anchovies, an ingredient often mentioned with pizza during this period.

The Record (NJ), July 1, 1933, added that in New York, “A pizza is an Italian pancake which comes in two sizes, the smaller about 14 inches in diameter and the larger fully two feet. With both go tomatoes, anchovies, cheese and other delicacies. The cost is 25 cents for one and 35 cents for the other. The pancakes are baked in a huge brick oven,…”

Pizza in California! The San Francisco Call Bulletin (CA), July 27, 1933, mentioned that Antonio Farina was “known as the greatest man cook in the Italian quarter…” The article continued, his special dish was pizza, “Pizza, made only in Naples, and Farina is the only man who can make it properly in San Francisco.” It added, "It’s a concoction of special dough, oil, cheese, tomatoes, thyme and many other more mysterious things. Sometimes anchovy is substituted for the cheese.”

The Brooklyn Daily Eagle (NY), January 21, 1935, mentioned Pizzeria alla Napoletana, located at 147 W. 48th St. Pizza was described as “a dessert that dates back to the early Romans. Pizza requires a special type of oven with the flame coming down from the top, which explains why it is so hard to get in the majority of restaurants…” Pizza as a dessert? This wouldn't be the last time that it would be categorized as such. 

The article also noted, “It is made in a great big shallow dish almost as large as a tea tray. And is served in triangles, like slabs of pie.” It continued, “Pizza, as properly prepared, is baked cheese and tomato. Another version consists of cheese, tomatoes, olives and anchovies all baked together.” Again, those anchovies! Finally, it stated, “Pizza is much like pie. Americans often order it by asking for pie. You can combine both techniques, by asking the waiter for ‘a pizza pie."

The Central New Jersey Home News (NJ), April 26, 1935, provided a recipe for Italian Pie, or Pizza, and you can see anchovies were one of the ingredients. Other ingredients included tomatoes, garlic, cloves, pepper and olive oil. But, no cheese. 

The Brooklyn Eagle (NY), September 6, 1935, had an  PIC of ad for Colucci’s Pizzeria, noting it sold “Pizza with mazzarella, anchovies, fried pepper, mushrooms.” This is the first mention I found of adding mushrooms to a pizza.

The New York Post (NY), September 20, 1935, ran an article with the above title. The article stated, “The anchovy wing of pizza lovers rose up in protest today at the disclosure that a cop yesterday ate three Italian pizza which were not garnished and garlanded with anchovies.” It was also noted, “The glorious pizza, they said, is not at its best if it is made largely of cheese, or if sardines are substituted for anchovies.” H. Paynter, a “culinary sage of Riverdale,” was quoted as saying, “Without anchovies the otherwise delectable pizza is a barbarous dish fit for savages who would gobble sparrows uncooked and with the feathers on.” Mayor Laguardi was also asked for his opinion on this pizza matter and he stated, “They’re too doughy for my taste…But if you want my recipe, here it is. A piece of dough, cheese, tomatoes and anchovies.”

The Asbury Park Press (NJ), March 5, 1936, printed an ad for Jerrys Tavern, noting "During Lent Try One of Jerry’s Pizza With Anchovies.” 

The Hartford Courant (CT), March 19, 1936, mentioned, “The pizza cook cannot be any Italian. He must be a Neapolitan, for only in Naples does it reach its perfection. There is at least one Neapolitan making pizza in Hartford, and he’s an artist at his trade.” The article continued, “The foundation for pizza is a round piece of Italian bread dough…the filling, which consists of a layer of parmesan cheese, a layer of tomato paste, a generous scattering of grated red peppers, and a thorough dosing of olive oil. On top, anchovies are generally scattered.”

A pizza recipe was provided in the Boston Globe, January 2, 1937. It stated you could buy bread dough at an Italian bakery or make your own. Then, you greased a baking sheet with olive oil and spread the dough on the sheet. Next, you placed pieces of anchovies on the dough, and then added a half-can of tomatoes, pepper, a sprinkling of savory, and top it all with olive oil. Curiously, no cheese was used in this recipe.

The San Francisco Call Bulletin (CA), June 22, 1937, stated that you should check out Lupo’s restaurant, a true Neapolitan food spot, to eat pizza. “A young fellow was working at a table rolling and smacking a piece of dough into a circle about twelve inches across. Then he put bits of lard on it, tomato sauce and anchovies (or mozzarella cheese, which was introduced into California by the father of Al Santoro, the sports writer), sprinkled it with the herb basil and parmesan cheese, lifted it with a wooden scoop and set it in the flaming oven.” The pizza then cooked for about 10 minutes. 

Another recipe. The Pittsburgh Sun-Telegraph (PA), July 7, 1937, provided a pizza recipe from Henry Armetta, a “famous movie actor” and master cook. The recipe stated that a pizza would be topped with “cut-up tomatoes, anchovies, French cheese, and sprinkle all over with olive oil and ‘aregano’, pepper and salt.”

The Times Herald Record (NY), August 19, 1937, had an advertisement for a Pizzeria on Prince and the pizza was “Furnished with Cheese. Fresh Tomato or Anchovies.”

The Owens Valley Progress Citizen (CA), November 26, 1937, mentioned Lupo's restaurant, which I previously mentioned. The article noted, “Tried a new dish at Lupo’s Restaurant Neapolitan Pizzeria on Kearny Street and was introduced to pizza (pronounced pizzsta) an Italian concoction that’s baked in an oven, contains the amazing combination of lard, tomato sauce, anchovies, mozzarella cheese and parmesan cheese. You eat it hot, and like pie.” 

Another recipe. The Miami Herald (FL), April 1, 1938, provided a recipe from a Miami woman of Italian descent. It was mentioned, “Pizza Napoletana is an unusual bread, layered with tomatoes and anchovies and sprinkled with grated Parmesan cheese, thyme and pepper and brushed over with olive oil before baking.”

The Los Angeles Examiner (CA), October 21, 1938, provided a recipe  for “Pizza (Hot Bread)." Once again, anchovies were a listed ingredient.  

The Record (NJ), January 10, 1939, reported that a legal question had arisen, whether female waitresses could be employed at a pizzeria on the basis it was a restaurant, or whether they were prohibited because pizzerias were taverns. Female waitresses were not permitted to work at taverns. D. Frederick Burnett, the State Alcoholic Beverage Control Commissioner, conducted a scholarly study of the pizzeria business, and then concluded that whether a pizzeria was a restaurant, tavern or ordinary bakeshop under State liquor law depended on the nature of the establishment. It would be judged on a case by case basis.

Burnett wrote “In Naples, of course, everyone knows that a Pizzeria is a place where dough pies, embroidered with tomatoes, anchovies or mozzarella (a cheese indited to the kid goat), and embellished with peppers and garlic, are made and baked while you wait.” He continued, “Talking strictly Neapolitan, a pizzeria is a shop specializing in the baking of pizza to order. The fact that it is consumed before it cools, does not convert the shop into a restaurant. Rather it is a tribute to gastronomical judgment. Nor does its solubility in wine change a tavern either into a restaurant or a bake shop merely because it installs an oven to serve its patrons."

The Journal (CT), January 28, 1939, ran an article from the Philadelphia Record. It noted that pizza was a "new delicacy." It added, “What is pizza? Well, it’s just a big open-faced pie, filled with tomatoes, anchovies, mozzarella, cheese, peppers, or what have you—and baked while you wait. You name your own delicacy and the pizza baker will drop it in. Then it comes out of the oven—all golden brown and crisp,…”

The article continued, “The most popular pizzeria (pizza bakery) in town is Fiore’s, 1653 E. Passayunk avenue.” And, “The reason for Fiore’s popularity is Derigi Cecchini, the pizza baker. He learned his trade as a boy in Naples, the birthplace of pizza.” Hands not silverware! It was also noted, “It’s cut into pie segments and eaten with hands. Don’t let Derigi see you eat it with a fork. His artistic Latin soul will be hurt.” It was also mentioned that “Musicians and show people are great pizza eaters.” Pizza was so popular in Philadelphia that in the last 8 months, 9 pizzerias had opened on Passyung Avenue and 8 others had opened in other sections of Little Italy. 

The Washington Daily News (D.C.), February 17, 1939, noted, “…Italian tomato pie, a fromagenous delicacy of tomatoes, bread crust, anchovies, spice, bacon or whatever else happens to be around and likely looking. A new dish to Washington, it is made at the Little Dutch Tavern (extraordinary misnomer), at 1304 Pennsylvania-ave se, the only place south of Philadelphia where the exotic business is conducted.” 

Their chef was Anthony Camposano and he provided a recipe. Anchovies are mentioned, but so is bacon as a possible topping. Finally, it was mentioned that pizza should only be eaten with your hands, and not any silverware. 

The Central New Jersey Home News (NJ), February 22, 1939, printed this ad for the Neapolitan Kitchen, noting that Pizza came with a choice of cheese, anchovies or mushrooms. 

The Boston Herald, March 6, 1939, provided a recipe, which entailed you making your own dough. The pizza was topped by onion, Parmesan cheese, pepper, canned tomatoes, olive oil and anchovies. 

The Boston Globe (MA), July 28, 1939, provided a recipe for Pizza Neapolitena, noting four toppings for the pizza, which you could use individually or in any combination. Those choices included cheese, anchovies, sausage, and sardines. 

The Daily Times (Iowa), October 19, 1939, had a brief review of a cookbook, Herbs for the Kitchen by Irma Goodrich Mazza. The cookbook was “devoted entirely to dishes which the author believes taste better when herbs are used.” In a recipe from Naples, pizza was noted as “—a raised bread dough covered lightly with anchovies, tomato and marjoram and baked in a hot oven.”

The Fitchburg Sentinel (MA), October 26, 1939, printed the above ad for the Fairmount Café, which offered Pizza with Anchovies for 40 cents.  

The Dayton Daily News (OH), October 26, 1939, mentioned Lupo’s restaurant in San Francisco, and the article stated; the pizza was “spread with olive oil or lard, anchovies or ham, tomato paste and cheese sometimes of several types.” 

It generally wouldn't be until the 1940s that other pizza toppings, such as meatballs, sausage, and pepperoni started becoming available and more commonly known. Anchovies were king for almost forty years, but then hit a decline as other toppings started being added to pizza. Today, you can find pizza with almost any type of topping, although anchovies are often still available. 

Rant: Ugly Food Deserves Love!

"Everything has beauty, but not everyone sees it."
 --Confucius

In the food world, where Instagram is immensely popular, you've been fed a lie. You've been led to believe that only "beautiful" food is worthy of attention. Everything is done to make their food look as attractive as possible. If a stylish and compelling photo can't be taken of a dish, then it's ignored. 

It's a shallow and insidious belief, and easily spreads beyond the food world, so that people begin to believe that outer beauty is most important in many other areas too. It teaches the wrong lesson. We need to battle this lie, and embrace the fact that even "ugly" food deserves love.

The photo above probably isn't "worthy" of Instagram because sausage gravy generally isn't seen as appealing on a picture. It's often considered an "ugly" food, and thus not worthy of attention. It doesn't look pretty, and some might think the gravy resembles something disgusting. However, this dish, a Hash Stack, from Nick & Andy's in Danvers, is pure comfort food, a delicious blend of flavors and textures, and definitely worthy of your attention. It's a combination of hash browns, bacon, sausage, scrambled eggs, cheese and sausage gravy. This "ugly" dish shouldn't be ignored as it possesses its own "inner beauty," a food for the soul.

Chain restaurants understand the appeal of "beautiful" food and their commercials, often using a food stylist, work hard to depict their foods in the best light. However, when you actually patronize those restaurants, what you get served probably doesn't resemble the beauty of their commercials. It's another type of lie, one pertinent to Instagram as well. Restaurants may help Instagrammers take the best photo of their food, although when you dine there, your dish might not actually look like those photos.

In addition, a photo doesn't tell you how a dish tastes. All you see is the outer shell, and not what is within. Beautiful food can lack sufficient flavor and taste. It might be too dry, too overcooked, too unbalanced, too salty, etc. And ugly food can be the opposite, some of the best food you've ever tasted. We need to look beyond appearances, to get to the heart of what is truly important. Would you rather eat something that is pretty and tasteless, or something ugly and flavorful?

We need to stop promoting the idea that only beautiful food is worthy. We need to embrace the myriad "beauty" that is found in all dishes, even if on the outside, they don't follow traditional images of beauty. "Ugly" food deserves just as much attention and we shouldn't settle for less.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) August is packed with reasons to visit The Wellington as the Belmont Center neighborhood spot celebrates National Sandwich Month, and the height of New England's summer with new seasonal menu offerings available throughout the month.

In honor of National Sandwich Month, The Wellington is offering guests even more value during lunch service throughout August. Every Tuesday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:00 p.m., guests who order any lunch sandwich will receive their choice of fries or side salad, plus a complimentary rotating surprise second side.

The weekly rotating bonus side will feature seasonal favorites such as potato salad, seasoned rice, and corn ribs, giving guests something new to discover with each visit. The promotion is available with all lunch sandwiches, including the Caprese Sandwich, Fried Chicken Sandwich, and New York Bodega Chopped Cheese Sub.

As the Dog Days of Summer are amongst us, The Wellington is also introducing new seasonal dishes that showcase fresh ingredients and New England flavors.

New menu additions include:
Caprese Flatbread ($21) – Heirloom tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, basil, oregano,maldon sea salt, drizzled with aged balsamic and EVOO
Pan-Seared Salmon ($36) – Pan seared faroe island salmon, sautéed heirloom tomatoes, native corn, potato gnocchi, basil (available gluten-free)
Shrimp & Corn Chowder ($18) – Summer corn and tender shrimp in a rich, creamy broth

Adding to the summer festivities, The Wellington continues to offer live entertainment throughout the weekend. Guests can enjoy Friday Night Live Music featuring Malin & Friends from 8:00-10:00 p.m., Saturday Night Live Music with Morningside Music Studio from 7:30-9:30 p.m., and the restaurant's popular Sunday Live Jazz Brunch from 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., featuring live jazz from rotating artists alongside brunch favorites. Whether gathering for cocktails, dinner, or a leisurely weekend brunch, guests can pair The Wellington's seasonal menu with live local entertainment all weekend long. 

"August is one of the best times of year to enjoy everything New England has to offer, from fresh seafood and local produce to relaxing afternoons and evenings spent outdoors," said Joe Arkinstall, General Manager of The Wellington. "We wanted to create a month filled with reasons for both our regular guests and first-time visitors to stop by, whether it's for lunch, happy hour, or dinner. These seasonal promotions and new menu additions celebrate the flavors of summer while giving guests something new to experience throughout the month."

Non-Rant: Recent Food Highlights

There won't be a Rant today, but rather a highlight of some of the foods I've recently enjoyed. I'm just not in a mood for a Rant, and would rather spread the joy of some delicious dishes.

An Extra-Cheese Pizza from Prince Pizzeria in Saugus. I've been dining here since I was a child, and this year, the restaurant has celebrated their 65th Anniversary. Their pizza recipe has remained largely the same over all of those years, except for a slight change in the cheese blend. It once was an all-cheddar blend but now also has some mozzarella. It's reminiscent in some ways to Greek pizza, but forms its own unique style. I regularly have lunch here, enjoying pizza, or sometimes other tasty dishes, like their Meatballs Sliders.

The "Cadillac" Sandwich at Anthony's Italian Specialties in Stoneham. Chicken Cutlets, Prosciutto, Fresh Slices of Mozzarella, and a Balsamic Glaze. You can also opt for Roasted Red Peppers if you want. I got it on a braided roll, and it's a huge sandwich, which could feed two people, or one very hungry person. All of the sandwiches at Anthony's are known to be quite large, filled with plenty of meat and other toppings. Their Italian is a hugely popular, as is their Lobster Salad available only on Fridays. Everything tastes fresh, is reasonably priced for the quantity and quality, and quite delicious. This is also another spot that I have been visiting for many years.

Coffee Roll from Donuts With A Difference in Medford. This is my favorite donut shop, a very old-school spot which makes more traditional donuts, and not the fancy ones you find at many other spots. They are made in-house so they are always fresh, and if you're lucky, they may even be served warm. When's the last time you had a warm donut at any donut shop? They are also inexpensive, and you can get a dozen donuts for only $19, which is half-the price at some other donut shops. Their coffee roll, which is quite large, costs under $3.00, and is one of my favorite choices. A soft, fresh texture, with the sweet glaze atop it, and plenty of cinnamon within. 

Whoopie Pies from Sandpiper Bakery in Ipswich. These aren't always available at the bakery, but when they are, I'm always sure to buy a few. They are small enough for a single person to enjoy, and the chocolate cake is soft, moist and full of chocolate flavor. The whipped filling is creamy and has just the right amount of sweetness. A nicely balanced treat, it's one of my favorite Whoopie pies north of Boston. I also have to mention their Ham & Cheese Croissants which may also be one of the best, with such a flaky and buttery croissant, and often is served warm. Anytime I visit the Ipswich area, I nearly always stop here. As you should too. 

 

Fried Lobster Tails plate from the Clam Box in Ipswich. Only available on Fridays, the fried lobster tails are one of my favorites. I certainly love their other dishes, from Fried Clams to Fried Scallops, but this is my top favorite. Each piece is a half-lobster tail, with a crisp and clean fried coating over tender, sweet lobster. There is drawn butter for dipping too. You usually get at least 7 pieces of lobster, making for a hearty meal with French fries and onion rings. Others have their own favorite clam shacks, but the Clam Box remains my personal favorite. 

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) There may be no better place in America to celebrate National Oyster Day than the historic Union Oyster House, which officially turns 200 in August. On Wednesday, August 5, America’s oldest continuously operating restaurant will mark the occasion with fresh Massachusetts oysters served raw on the half shell, grilled, fried, or as its legendary Oysters Rockefeller.

Guests can also enjoy oysters in the same historic dining rooms, or pull up a stool at the restaurant’s original oyster bar, where Daniel Webster, John F. Kennedy, Julia Child, President Barack Obama, and countless other notable figures have dined over the past two centuries.

“There’s no better place to celebrate National Oyster Day than Union Oyster House,” said owner Joseph Milano. “Oysters have been at the heart of our story for generations, and we’re honored to continue welcoming guests from Boston and around the world as we prepare to celebrate our 200th anniversary.”

Owner Joseph Milano, who has carried on the restaurant’s legacy since 1970, and Executive Chef Americo Rico DiFronzo, a member of the American Academy of Chefs Culinary Hall of Fame, invite guests to celebrate one of New England’s most beloved culinary traditions.

2) Also for National Oyster Day, on August 5, get ready to shuck, sip, and slurp your way to bivalve bliss because sister restaurants Atlantic Fish Co. and Joe’s Waterfront will be shelling out deals.

Serving fresh catch since 1978, Atlantic Fish Co. will feature $2 oysters from the East and West Coast in their bar area from 3-6pm. Across town, Joe’s Waterfront on Boston Harbor will showcase buck-a-shuck local oysters all day until they’re gone.

3) Salt & Straw ice cream’s Summer Pies flavor series has officially returned, including the addition of a brand new flavor, Peaches and Cream Galette. Co-founder and head ice cream maker Tyler Malek has once again reimagined classic pies as five standout ice cream flavors, churning their flaky crusts, jammy fillings, and custardy centers into a suite of craveable scoops – available now through August 27th. 

Additionally, Salt & Straw is debuting a new frozen treat, the limited-edition Tacolate Milkshake – an indulgent spin-off of their viral Tacolate, the nostalgic and highly sought-after ice cream taco. Available starting this Saturday, August 1st through September 7th, the Tacolate Milkshake blends Cinnamon Snickerdoodle ice cream with a Tacolate and is finished with a chocolate drizzle, whipped cream, wildberry sugar dusting, and half a Tacolate topper.

Flavors in The Summer Pies Series include:
Peaches and Cream Galette – A brand new creation: fresh peach ice cream studded with hunks of a rustic peach galette, and ribboned with peach pie filling
Wild-Foraged Berry Slab Pie – The beloved returning flavor, featuring wild berry pie filling and bits of double-baked pie crust folded into salted vanilla ice cream
Wildflower Honey and Lemon Chess Pie – Cultured frozen yogurt studded with lemon chess pie, sweetened with wildflower honey and finished with a drizzle of housemade lemon curd
Gruyère and Tomato Custard Tart – A savory gruyère cheese and tomato jam tart, diced into bite-sized pieces and tossed into a salt and pepper custard ice cream
Coconut Cherry Pie with Almond Crust (v) – Sour cherry pie filling and shortbread almond crust folded into coconut cream

Rant: Celebrate World Baijiu Day!

This August, there are a number of drink holidays, including: August 7: International Beer Day, August 13: National Prosecco Day, August 16: National Rum Day, August 18: National Pinot Noir Day, and August 30: National Cabernet Sauvignon Day. The basic idea behind such days is to promote a grape, wine, beer, spirit or cocktail, and savvy marketers take the opportunity to highlight and push their products. However, do we really need all of these drink holidays?

For the more popular choices, like Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Prosecco, I don't think we need a special day to showcase these grapes or wine types. Nearly every wine consumer knows about those grapes. So, as they're already popular, we should instead shine a spotlight on grapes that are more worthy of attention, grapes which are less popular or less known. There are plenty of under-appreciated grapes and wine types, such as Assyrtiko, Rkatsiteli, Pošip, Baga, Mavrud, Manzanilla Sherry and many more, which would benefit greatly from their own special day. 

We also don't need a day just to celebrate Beer or Rum, as again, they are already well known to consumers. There are other alcoholic beverages worthy of more attention, who need greater recognition with consumers, from Sake to Shochu. These niche spirits need the publicity, to boost awareness and sales. 

I would much rather see days celebrating the drink underdogs, helping to gain them recognition and new fans. I want people to broaden their palates, and taste something new for them. They need to be enticed to step out of their comfort zone. For example, Sake is still vastly under appreciated in the U.S. so having a day that celebrates and promotes it makes sense. Did you know International Sake Day, which is celebrated each year on October 1, has existed since 1978, nearly 50 years? That makes it far older than nearly all of the other wine and drink holidays.

On Saturday, August 9, we should celebrate the 12th Anniversary of World Baijiu Day, a holiday created by Jim Boyce, who runs the nightlife blog Beijing Boyce and wine blog Grape Wall of China. The intent of this holiday is to raise awareness of Baijiu, to highlight its wonders beyond the borders of China. Even though Baijiu is the most popular spirit in the world, most Americans know little, if anything about it. 

As I've said before, Baijiu seems to be the Durian fruit of the spirits world, both having a reputation for funkiness which turns off some people, while others become fervent fans. It's a fascinating beverage, with much diversity of flavor and taste, and I strongly encourage everyone to seek it out and sample some of its wonders.

When is the last time you saw a drink writer pen an article about Baijiu? It's a rarity, indicating that more attention needs to be paid to this spirit. Not enough people are writing and talking about this unique beverage, despite its intriguing history, production methods, and customs. We need to change this and World Baijiu Day is an important way to help spread the word, and maybe entice more writers to talk about Baijiu, and for more consumers to sample Baijiu in cocktails on its own.

Over the years, I've written sixteen articles about Baijiu, covering a diverse selection of topics, from Baijiu reviews to a the detailed explanation of its production methods. This is a great place to start your education about Baijiu.  

Baijiu: The Durian Fruit Of The Spirits World (Part 1)
Baijiu: Its Unique Production Process (Part 2)
Baijiu: Drinking Etiquette & Some Reviews (Part 3)
Baijiu: Cocktails, Boston & World Baijiu Day (Part 4)
Baijiu: Food Pairings (Part 5)
Vinn Bajiu: Made in Portland
Baijiu: The Essential Guide To Chinese Spirits by Derek Sandhaus
World Baijiu Day: August 9
Taizi Baijiu: A New Zealand Treasure
Historical Tidbits About Baijiu, The World's Most Popular Spirit (Part 1)
Historical Tidbits About Baijiu, The World's Most Popular Spirit (Part 2)

Rant: Stop Drink Hate

Sumiao Hunan Kitchen: World Baijiu Day & Dine Out Boston

Luzhou Laojiao: Mainstreaming Baijiu With Cocktails

Baijiu Pop-Ups at Backbar: Learn About This Fascinating Chinese Spirit

A Baijiu Class with Derek Sandhaus

In celebration of World Baijiu Day, there will be events held all over the world, from Beijing to Auckland, Dublin to Stockholm. In the U.S., there will be Baijiu events in Baltimore, Chicago, Dallas, Los Angeles, Minneapolis, New York City, Portland (OR), San Francisco, San Jose, Scottsdale, and Washington, D.C. 

In the Boston area, Sumiao Hunan Kitchen, in Kendall Square, Cambridge, will once again celebrate World Baijiu Day. They will be celebrating with two ways to discover China’s most iconic spirit. First, you can try their seasonal Baijiu cocktail, the Eastern Sun, smoky Baijiu and Mezcal meet juicy passion fruit and lime. Second, you can explore a Baijiu flight highlighting a range of distinctive aromas and flavors. Sumiao states, "Whether you’re a curious first-timer or already a baijiu fan, join us in Kendall Square and experience the world’s most-consumed spirit in a fresh and approachable way." They also have three Baijiu cocktails on their regular menu, including the Fung Wah, Perpetual Motion, and Red Ruby. 

Baijiu is becoming more readily available at liquor shops in the U.S., though previously you might not have even realized it existed. There's a distillery in Connecticut, the Branford Distillery, which produces a Gaoliang Baijiu. The Oversea Distillery, in Maryland, produces two Baijiu bottles, including a Light Aroma Baijiu and an Aged 6 Years Baijiu. Baijiu may be hugely popular in Asia but it needs much greater exposure in the rest of the world, including in the U.S. It's a unique and delicious spirit and well worth seeking out. This is a Drink Day that I wholeheartedly support and hope that everyone else takes this opportunity to acquaint themselves with Baijiu. 

Expand your palate and try something different and more unique. Drink some Baijiu and celebrate World Baijiu Day!

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) In celebration of National Ice Cream Month in July, Maple & Ash, in the Seaport, has teamed up with the iconic Cabot’s Ice Cream (Newton) to give its popular Sundae Service a temporary twist with local flavor. Through August 18, Maple & Ash will swap a scoop of its usual Neapolitan trio in its Sundae Tower for a customized flavor created by Cabot’s just for the occasion: a brown sugar-bourbon icy delight infused with chopped dark chocolate.

Presented on high tea platters, Maple & Ash’s signature Sundae Tower is a nostalgic DIY ice cream sundae inspired by Chef-Owner Danny Grant’s mother, who, during his childhood, was famous for her movie nights paired with sundaes. With a scoop on Cabot’s on top with chocolate and vanilla down below, create a dream dessert with toppings ranging from hot fudge to peanut butter cups, sprinkles, brownie brittle, gummy bears, seasonal fruit, and more.

COST: Sundae Tower: $25.00

2) As thousands flock to the North End for Boston's iconic 116th Fisherman's Feast, Prezza is bringing the celebration to the table with a limited-time seafood menu inspired by one of the city's most cherished Italian traditions. From August 1 through August 16, guests can indulge in six seafood specials available à la carte, making it easy to enjoy a full feast or mix and match favorites while taking in the excitement of the annual celebration.

The ‘Fisherman’s Feast’ menu includes:
· Oysters with Cucumber Mignonette and Cocktail Sauce - $24
· Fried Clams with Lemon Caper Aioli - Market Price
· Scallop Crudo with Cara Cara Orange, Fennel, Citrus Vinaigrette, and Calabrian Chilis - $24
· White Anchovy Crostini with Garlic, Wine, Cherry Tomatoes, and Olive Tapenade - $24
· Octopus Carpaccio with Baby Arugula, Citrus Vinaigrette, Salsa Verde, and Calabrian Chilis - $26
· Grilled Lobster Tail with Creamy Corn Lobster Tart and Onion Rings - Market Price

To complement the seafood specials, Prezza will also feature a limited-time Spritz Menu throughout the celebration, offering refreshing Italian-inspired cocktails perfect for summer sipping. Guests can choose from:
· Aperol Spritz
· Hugo Spritz
· Campari Spritz
· Sarti Rosa Spritz
· Select Spritz
· Limoncello Spritz
· Cucumber Spritz
· Mayan Spritz

To help guests make the most of the festivities, Prezza will also offer extended hours during the Feast's busiest weekend, opening Saturday, August 15 from 1:00 PM – 10:00 PM and Sunday, August 16 from 12:00 PM – 8:00 PM.

3) Salt & Straw is making its long-awaited Boston debut with a menu created just for the city. Opening tomorrow, July 24, in Boston’s Seaport District, the cult-favorite artisan ice cream brand’s new New England scoop shop launches with exclusive Boston-inspired flavors, the return of one of its most beloved limited-edition creations, and a line-up of the signature favorites that have made Salt & Straw an ice cream destination.

Leading the opening is the exclusive Boston Cream Pie flavor, featuring vanilla chiffon cake ice cream with a dark chocolate fudge swirl and vanilla bean custard, a tribute to the city's most iconic dessert. Also available in Boston is the regional Pistachio & Ricotta Cannoli, which celebrates Boston's vibrant Italian American community, made with pistachio ice cream, ricotta ribbons, crisp cannoli shell pieces, and candied nuts. Opening weekend will also mark the return of the beloved Cool Dog, co-founder and head ice cream maker Tyler Malek's playful reimagining of the nostalgic frozen treat. It features rum-spiked Double Fold Vanilla ice cream, silky crème anglaise, and rich dark chocolate fudge tucked inside a vanilla cake bun, finished with coffee whipped cream and rainbow sprinkles. Its return is a celebratory nod to the imaginative, unexpected creations that Salt & Straw is known for.

The opening has been years in the making for co-founders Kim & Tyler Malek, and makes one of Salt & Straw’s most anticipated East Coast debuts, which is located within Commonwealth Pier in the heart of the Seaport. The Boston shop will be open from 11am-11pm each day. 

"Boston has been a city we've admired for its incredible food culture, rich history, and deep sense of community," says CEO and co-founder Kim Malek. "There's an authenticity here that feels incredibly aligned with who we are as a company. We couldn't be more excited to open our shop, build relationships with local makers and organizations, and create a gathering place where people can connect for years to come."

"Boston is a city with so many iconic flavors and traditions, but it also champions innovation," says co-founder Tyler Malek. "That's exactly what inspires us. We love diving into a city's culinary history while discovering the people who are shaping what's next. We can't wait to create flavors and collaborations that celebrate everything that makes Boston so special."

The Boston shop will be a home for Salt & Straw's thoughtfully crafted, classic flavor menu and monthly rotating series—including August’s Summer Pies Series (launching 7/24), an annual celebration of beloved pies turned into scoopable “a la mode” flavors— which showcase artisanal ingredients sourced from longtime purveyor partners, local farms, and housemade components. 

Signature favorites include Chocolate Gooey Brownie, featuring brownie bites that stay perfectly chewy thanks to housemade marshmallow fluff; Sea Salt with Caramel Ribbons, and Strawberry & Coconut Water Sherbet, made with fresh berries and dairy-free ingredients. The scoop shop will also offer viral fan favorites items like The Tacolate (created in partnership with Taco Bell), and The Cake, inspired by the brand’s beloved Birthday Cake & Blackberries flavor.

I have previously visited Salt & Straw in Portland and loved their ice cream and unique flavor combinations, so I'm excited for this new shop in Boston. 

Rant: Sparking A Flame in Wine Consumers

"I'd rather that wine writers tried to deepen people's love of wine,..."
--Reading Between The Wines by Terry Theise

Wine writers can easily provide sterile reviews of wines, with a few descriptors, possibly using flavors that are unfamiliar to many consumers. For example, how many general consumers know what gooseberries taste like? These reviews might also provide their own point score, letter grade or similar ranking. Such a ranking doesn't provide much information about what a consumer will experience with such a wine. If a reader trusts your judgment, after having assessed your reviews over a length of time, then they might select a wine based on your recommendation. 

There may be a better way. 

Employees at a wine store can also offer more sterile advice. They may tell customers how many points a wine scored, or they can recite a cold list of basic wine descriptors. That will certainly lead to some wine sales, but there are probably wines that can't be sold in this manner. 

There may be a better way. 

Something is missing in both of these situations: Passion!

Sterile advice might help to sell a wine, but you don't imbue a passion for wine into those consumers. You're treating wine as a mere commodity, like any other, and making consumers treat it as one as well. You'e not sparking a fire of excitement within consumers, not getting them to fall deeper in love with wine. And that's what's needed, getting more consumers not only to drink specific wines, but to get passionate about it, to embrace its diversity, beauty, and mystery. 

Not all consumers will be amenable to embracing that passion. Trying to assess who is amenable can be an effort, but it pays off in the end. Each consumer you inspire with that passion will likely spread that passion to others. With all the recent talk of decreases in wine consumption, then spreading a passion for wine is even more important. 

Why do you write about wine? Why do you work in a wine store? Is it merely a job? Or do you do it because you have a passion for wine? If you possess that passion, then why don't you try to share your passion with others, rather than just write sterile reviews of try to sell wine without the use of passion?  

I've worked in a wine shop for over fourteen years, and been writing about wine for over 20 years. When I offer a wine recommendation with passion, rather than points, I often see a clear difference in the eyes of the consumer. Their eyes take on the spark of passion that is found within my own. They are no longer buying just a commodity, but they have found an experience, an emotional connection which will last far longer than that bottle of wine. They get excited to buy wine, desirous of tasting different ones.

Think back to your own wine mentors and friends. I bet those who most inspired you were those who shared their passion for wine with you. If all they did was provide you wine scores, I very much doubt they would have become significant inspirations for you. So infuse life into your writing and your words, and let your passion spark a wildfire in others. 

2018 Domaine Pichot Clos St. Mathurin Sparkling Vouvray: Loire Bubbly & Mussels

This past Friday night, I enjoyed a dinner of mussels at home, having purchased them earlier that day at the Ipswich Shellfish Fish Market in Ipswich. They were organic PEI Mussels, which were rope grown, for only $7.49 for a bag. I love mussels, steamed in a flavorful broth, and accompanied by a crusty bread for sopping up the broth. 

Wild mussels have been consumed for thousands of years and farmed mussels extend back at least to the 12th century, when they were cultivated in the waters off the coast of France. The Pilgrims probably feasted on mussels during the first Thanksgiving. Farmed mussels are one of the most sustainable forms of aquaculture. They are easy and quick to grow, better than probably any other bivalve. They are also filter feeders, which eat algae, plankton and other microscopic sea creatures, and help to purify the water. They make the oceans cleaner which is a great benefit. 

Mussels are also a healthy choice, one of the best seafoods you can consume. They are a good source of protein, with the added benefit of being low in calories and saturated fats. In some respects, that makes it a better choice than beef. In addition, mussels are a good source of selenium, vitamin B12, zinc and folate. Most importantly, mussels also possess a significant amount of Omega-3 fatty acids, which is important in reducing the risk of heart disease. A 3 ounce portion of mussels contains about 700 milligrams of Omega-3s, placing it high on the list of seafood with significant amounts of Omega-3 fatty acids. Plus, mussels have a far less risk of mercury and PCBs. In many ways, mussels are an excellent nutritious choice and should be a regular visitor to your dinner plate.

To accompany the mussels, I selected a bottle of bubbly from the Loire region of France, the 2018 Domaine Pichot Clos St. Mathurin Sparkling Vouvray (about $27), which is supposed to be an excellent pairing for seafood, from oysters to crab. I received this bottle as a media sample. 

Although the Domaine Pichot winery was established in 1996, the history of the Pichot family extends back to at least 1739, when they were restaurateurs. They purchased their first vineyards around 1770, so they could supply their restaurant with wine. When Domaine Pichot was founded, the family brought together three family vineyards: Coteau de la Biche, Le Peu de la Moriette, and Le Marigny. The vines are generally about 30 years old, and are planted with only Chenin Blanc. Their vineyards are organic and certified sustainable. 

The Clos St. Mathurin Sparkling Vouvray is produced from grapes, about 35 years old, from a small, 1.5 hectare vineyard within the Le Marigny site. The soil in this vineyard is limestone and flint. The sparkling wine is made in the méthode traditionnelle (like Champagne), with fermentation in 70% in stainless steel and 30% in 400 liter used barrels, followed by two years on fine lees in the bottle. No dosage is used. Only 6,000 bottles are produced each year.

On the nose, the wine was expressive, with notes of white flowers and stone fruit, and in the glass, there were plenty of tiny bubbles. On the palate, it was elegant and crisp, fresh and flavorful, dry and pleasing. It possessed a complex melange of flavors, including peach and green apple, a subtle nuttiness, a touch of toast, and hints of baking spice. The finish was persistent and satisfying, and each sip beckoned you to take another. It paired very well with the mussels, and I could easily see it pairing well with other seafood too. This bubbly over-delivers for its price point, and I heartily recommend it. 

A Tavola: A Birthday Celebration

This past weekend I celebrated my birthday, and enjoyed some special meals and wines, both at home and at a restaurant. It's a tradition that I can select any restaurant I want to celebrate and this year I chose A Tavola, in Winchester, which is one of my Top Five Favorite Restaurants. Chef Joe Carli prepares excellent Italian cuisine, especially his pasta dishes, with many local ingredients. His wine list is all Italian, and presents a diverse range of choices, at all price points. 

My birthday dinner was as delicious as usual, and a strong standout was the local Striped Bass, probably one of the best seafood dishes I've enjoyed this year. A Tavola continues to receive my highest recommendation. If you want to dine outside, they have a nice patio, or if you dine inside, you could make a reservation for the Chef's Counter, and watch Chef Joe work his culinary magic in the kitchen. 

While perusing the wine list, I sought a light-style red wine and the 2023 Fuedo di Santa Tresa Rina Russa Frappato ($50) caught my eye. I love Sicilian Frappato wines and I knew it would be the light-style I desired. It's an organic wine, with bright red fruit flavors, enhanced by subtle spice notes, with good acidity. Food friendly and tasty. 

There were two appetizer specials and we opted for both of them. The Grilled Peaches ($18) were presented with Speck and Whipped Ricotta, and topped by a drizzle of hot honey. A delightful blend of flavors and textures, from the lightly charred peaches to the salty speck, from the creamy ricotta to the slightly spicy and sweet honey. A fine summer dish. 

The Striper Crudo ($18), served with crisp wonton chips, was another fine summer dish. The hearty amount of chunks of local striped bass were firm and fresh, with plenty of acidity, and were seasoned just right. The wonton chips were an excellent vehicle for the crudo.  

The standout of the dinner was the local Striped Bass ($39), and as I mentioned earlier, it's probably one of the best seafood dishes I've enjoyed this year. It was served with local, fresh corn, tomatoes, and potatoes. The fish was cooked perfectly, with a nice exterior sear, adding a fine crunch, and the interior was silky and moist, flavorful and a pure delight. The corn, tomatoes and potatoes added to the dish, including some sweetness and acidity, and the dish was a true taste of the summer. Highly recommended!

The Bucatini ($34), with foraged mushrooms, roasted garlic, white miso, and creamy burrata​, is one of my favorite dishes on their regular menu. The pasta is made in-house, and has an excellent firm texture. The mushrooms and miso add some earthiness and plenty of umami, while the garlic adds a nice flavor. The creamy burrata adds a creamy texture to the dish, helping to balance the earthiness. A week balanced and delicious dish.

After dinner, I opted for a Black Manhattan ($17), one of their barrel aged cocktails, which is made with Bourbon and Cynar (an Italian Amaro). The bitterness of the Cynar helps to balance the sweetness of the Bourbon. A Tavola also offers other barrel aged cocktails, including Negroni, Tequila Manhattan, and Boulevardier. 

And for dessert, I chose the Strawberry Shortcake ($14), with white cake and whipped cream. A tasty way to end the meal, with sweet strawberries, a light cake and creamy whipped cream. 

I left the restaurant, fully sated, and pleased that Chef Joe's cuisine remains consistently excellent.