Chinatown: A History of Henry Wong & Shanghai Printing (Part 17)

While recently walking around Boston's Chinatown, I stopped at 16 Oxford Street, pictured above, which is the former site of the Shanghai Printing Company. This was once the only Chinese printing plant in New England, catering to the various Chinese laundries and restaurants. 

There's a Historical Marker at this address, showing a photo of the former owner, Henry Wong, standing at a wall of thousands of Chinese characters for his printing press.  

Henry Wong, also known as Henry Leung and Henry You Min Wong, was born in Canton, China around 1912-1913. Around 1928, when he was 15 years old, he traveled from China to California, and a year later, in 1929, he moved to Boston, where he had relatives in the area. Initially, Henry went to work at an uncle's laundry in Concord, New Hampshire, but he didn't like the work. So, Henry moved back to Boston, where he worked at his cousin's noodle factory, the Hop Yuen Noodle Company at 14 Oxford Street.   

His cousin also owned a printing press, a rarity in Chinatown, and Henry learned how to operate it. It seems that he finally found work which appealed to him, much more than laundry or noodles. Thus, when his cousin returned to China, Henry purchased the printing press and decided to start his own business. Although some sources he started his business when he was 18 years old, other sources state that Henry started the Shanghai Printing Company in 1932, when he was 20 or 21 years old. It's possible that when Henry was 18, he simply continued his cousin's business, under the same name, and then started Shanghai Printing 2-3 years later. 

Seventeen years later, in 1949, was maybe the first newspaper mention of Henry and his printing company. By this point, Henry was married, to Katherine Chin, and had two children, Eric (age 60 and Jeffrey (age 5). The Boston Globe, May 29, 1949, ran a brief article about Henry, with five photos, including the photo that is depicted on the Historical Marker. The article mentioned that Henry's printing plant owns 20,000 Chinese characters, which were manufactured in Shanghai! Henry owns an ancient dictionary he uses to determine the proper characters for almost any word, but he's expected to know the characters for about 8500 common words. The characters above spell out "Boston Globe." It was also noted that the Chinese want color printing in every shade possible so Henry must mix his own inks. 

The Boston Traveler, April 18, 1956, stated that the Shanghai Printing Company was the only Chinese printing press in New England, and printed tickets for every Chinese laundry in New England. It was also said that his type case has 10,000 Chinese characters, half the number than which was previously mentioned. Henry was helped by an assistant, Martin Murray, and while Henry set the type, Martin would run the presses. Personally, Henry was said to be 42 years old and now had 5 children, including three daughters, Stephanie, Leslie, and Valerie. 

Consider the great difficulty of printing Chinese because of the vast amount of characters that are needed. English only has 26 letters, so you don't have to search too hard to find the letters you need. But with Chinese, you need to look through thousands of characters, a lengthier and more laborious process. And one man, Henry, did all of that work, of locating the proper characters among all of those possibilities. 

Curiously, the Boston Traveler, August 10, 1956, had some contrary information, stating that Shanghai Printing was located at 14 Oxford Street, not #16, and that the shop only had 6000 Chinese characters, 4,000 less than their previous article detailed. The article also stated: “This firm is equipped to prepare booklets, menus, laundry checks and other job printing work in either Chinese of English.”  

A more detailed article was presented in the Boston Globe, January 29, 1960. It was mentioned that Henry's business was relatively small, and located one flight down at 16 Oxford Street. Henry and his assistant, Martin Murray, performed printing jobs, using three flat-bed presses, in both Chinese and English. Henry possessed about 16,000 Chinese characters, in a big type rack, and regularly uses about 4,000. “Each character is a word, though not composed of alphabetical elements.” The article also mentioned the dictionary he used. “If the type calls for a word with which Henry is not thoroughly familiar, he can refer to the book. It is a sort of catalogue which defines the required character, and discloses its number. Henry can then go to the rack and instantly find it.”

Henry only carried 14 and 18 point type sizes, and the characters come from China. Henry purchased the characters by the pound, which generally cost about $1.00. A pound of 18 point type had about 35 characters while 14 point type had about 50. Most of their print work included restaurant, laundry checks, and labels. And the most popular color for their printing jobs was red. 

It was briefly mentioned in the Boston Sunday Herald, July 18, 1965, that “All the laundry tickets for Chinese laundries in New England are printed at the Shanghai Printing Co. on Oxford St." 

The Sampan, January 1983, reported that, on January 6, there was a powerful explosion that destroyed the Chinese Consolidated Benevolent Association’s four-story brick and wood building at 14 Oxford Street. The storefront of Shanghai Printing, at 16 Oxford Street, suffered heavy damages. The Athol Daily News, January 6, 1983, reported that 14 Oxford Street also had three apartments, two of which were vacant. Some witnesses reported a smell of gas prior to the explosion. 

The Boston Globe, January 7, 1983, provided more details of the explosion. Four people were injured, including one man, a 59 year old restaurant worker, who fell four stories but only sustained some cuts on his feet. A natural gas explosion is thought to have been the cause. 

Ownership handed down in the family. The Boston Sunday Herald, August 18, 1991, noted that Shanghai Printing was now run by Henry's on, Jerry Wong. However, twenty years later, in 2011, Jeffrey shut down Shanghai Printing, in large part as he was unable to compete with the new computer printing companies. 

Unfortunately, the Boston Globe, March 21, 1992, reported that Henry You Min Wong had died on Friday, March 20, leaving behind his wife Katherine Chin, his five children including Eric Wong, Jefferey Wong, Stephanie Fan, Leslie Chan, and Valerie Wong, as well as 10 grandchildren. The Boston Globe, March 22, 1992, added that Henry, age 80, had died of heart failure. It was also noted that he established Shanghai Printing in 1932. In addition, he founded the Chinese Progressive Association in 1977, and was the honorary president since 1982. 

Chinese Progressive Association "...is a grassroots community organization working for full equality and empowerment of the Chinese community in the Greater Boston area and beyond. CPA was founded in 1977 out of a series of community organizing campaigns around issues such as Chinese parents’ input into the Boston school desegregation process and organizing for community control over land development in Chinatown. Our membership is made up predominantly of Chinese immigrants and the Chinese-speaking; most are workers in low wage industries, working families, or low-income elderly. CPA has no single issue focus because we believe that people have many concerns–jobs, education, freedom from discrimination, a clean and safe living environment. We have seen that once people achieve their rights in one aspect of their lives, they will be more likely to actively participate in solving other community problems."  

Henry stated, “The aim of the Chinese Progressive Association, as I see it, is to serve the community, and it also stands for the liberation of thought … I am happy to be able to do my share in the fight for racial equality. Whether we succeed or not, everybody must do what you can!” 

And that fight continues! 

********************

A History of Boston's Chinatown and Its Restaurants: 

Check out Part 1, covering the 18th & 19th centuries
Check out Part 2, covering the years 1901-1920
Check out Part 3, covering the 1920s.

Check out Part 4, covering 1930-1959

Check out Part 5, covering the 1960s
Check out Part 6, the tale of Ruby Foo

Check out Part 7, the tale of Anita Chue
Check out Part 8, the tale of Mary Yick
Check out Part 9, a Deeper Look into Two Restaurants

Check out Part 10: Sam Wah Kee: From Chinatown's Most Wealthy Merchant to Wanted Fugitive

Check out Part 11: An Early History of Chinese Herbalists in Boston

Check out Part 12: Dr. Ensang Chang: Boston's First Chinese Licensed Physician 

Check out Part 13: A Historic Look at Chinese New Year in Boston (1870-1890)

Check out Part 14: An Early History of Christmas in Chinatown

Check out Part 15: Chinatown, Little Syria & Its Restaurants

Check out Part 16: The Chinese Shoe Makers of North Adams

And also see my Compilation Post, with links to my additional articles about Chinese restaurants, outside Boston and in Connecticut, as well as a number of related matters.

Rant: "Spectacular" Restaurants? We Don't Need Them

Often, when people dine out, they are not seeking the "spectacular." That is generally saved for special occasions. Instead, they will patronize restaurants which may sometimes receive negative reviews, restaurants where the food may not be consistent from visit to visit. Why would they do so?

I recently came upon a newspaper passage which seems to provide the explanation. The Boston Globe, May 19, 1972, had a review of a popular Chinatown restaurant. The review briefly noted that, “The service generally is merely standard.” It then addressed the reason for its popularity: "Here Bostonians find—the same menu serves for both lunch and dinner—the egg rolls, pork strips, chop suey, fried rice, sweet and sour dishes they think of first when they think of Chinese food. Spectacular? Not often. But comfortable, familiar, reasonable and good.”

Basic service and basic food. But it was comfort food, food they knew, which was adequately tasty, even if it wasn't exceptional. They knew when they dined there, the type of experience they would find. They weren't seeking the "best" Chinese food, but rather a meal that would satisfy them on an emotional or psychological level.    

I've seen numerous online reviews of local Chinese restaurants, some which dealt with inconsistent restaurants, and people still cherished those restaurants, especially as they were seen as comfortable and familiar. The inconsistency was simply accepted, and there would just be hopes that their next visit would be better. Other reviewers have raved about certain restaurants, which others have rated more mediocre, and such raves seem more likely because those places may be more comfortable and familiar to the ravers. 

This doesn't apply to just Chinese restaurants, but to all restaurants in general. Some restaurants, such as from Italian to Mexican, are popular but not because their cuisine is especially excellent, but because they offer comfort food, which is familiar and reasonably good. They cater more to certain emotional needs, and that is what is important to those diners.

If you follow the recommendations and reviews of these people, you might not be satisfied. It will depend on what you seek, whether you want excellent cuisine, or more familiar, comfort food, which might be inconsistent. What do you seek?

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
********************************************************
1) To celebrate the start of fall, Tonno Wakefield and Tonno Gloucester are hosting a fall Harvest Dinner featuring Piedmont wines from Beni di Batasiolo with a six-course seasonal pairing menu. The dinner will be held at Tonno Gloucester on September 23, at 6pm, and Tonno Wakefield on September 25, at 6:30pm.

The six-course menu offerings include:
Reception: Breadsticks with extra virgin olive oil; paired with 2023 Batasiolo Gavi
First Course: Pumpkin soup, parmesan croutons, and fried sage; paired with 2021 Batasiolo Barbera d’Alba
Second Course: Porcini Risotto topped with shaved black truffle; paired with 2020 Batasiolo Langhe Nebbiolo
Third Course: Chestnut Ravioli with pulled duck, brown butter and marscapone; paired with 2020 Batasiolo Barolo
Fourth Course: “Brasato Di Barolo” Braised Beef, Barolo wine, cipollini onions, carrots, celery, and gorgonzola mashed potatoes; paired with 2013 Batasiolo Barolo Bofani
Dessert: Gianduja Budino

To reserve a spot for dinner, please visit Tonno Gloucester’s Resy and Tonno Wakefield’s Resy. Tickets are $150 per person and include tax and gratuity.

2) Join InterContinental Boston’s Matria for the Two Chefs. Two Cities. One Table, a four-course dining experience curated by InterContinental Boston’s Chef De Cuisine, Jeffrey Bianchi, and InterContinental Seattle’s Chef, Eden Guillermo. This special dinner will feature a menu highlighting fresh ingredients from Italy’s Piedmont region, complemented by local inspirations and flavors from both Boston and Seattle.

The curated menu begins with Dungeness Crab & Cream Croquette, paired with Washington apples, fennel, and tomato coulis. The second-course presents Beet Cured Salmon Gravlax, served with shaved baby carrots, citrus purée, crisp kale, and avocado mousse. The main course, savor a Bone-In Black Truffle Short Rib with smoked butternut squash purée, broccolini, and shaved black-truffles. To finish the evening on a sweet note, indulge in Fall Apple Focaccia Bread Pudding, made with caramelized apple, ricotta, vanilla gelato, and caramel sauce.

Seatings are from Thursday, October 9 - Saturday, October 11, from 5pm-9:30pm. 

Cost: $99 per guest | +$60 optional 4-wine pairing | +$40 optional non-alcoholic 4-wine pairing (excludes tax and gratuity).
Reservations: Space is limited, to reserve a seat, visit Resy.

2020 Zuccardi Poligonos Paraje Altamira Malbec: A Delicious Mountain Wine

A Malbec with a sense of place, from grapes in mountain vineyards, and aged in concrete. And produced by a winery which is one of my favorites in Argentina. 

Bodega Zuccardi Valle De Uco extends back over 60 years in Argentina, when, in 1963, Alberto “Tito” Zuccardi planted his family's first vineyard. He was an engineer and had developed a new irrigation system, to help combat some of the desert conditions in the Mendoza region. A passion for viticulture then enveloped him, and the project grew and grew. It become a family business, and his son,  José Alberto took over in 1985. And then, in 1999, Jose's son, Sebastián, also got involved in the family business. 

Their vineyards are primarily in the mountainous region of the Uco Valley, and their Polígonos brand is considered to be "the expression of those villages of the Valley." And more specifically, Paraje Altamira is located on the plain south of the source of the Tunuyán River, at an altitude of 1050-1150 meters. It has a cool temperate climate, and its soils possess many stones and granite gravel, covered with calcareous material.

The 2020 Zuccardi Poligonos Paraje Altamira Malbec ($30-$35) is produced from 100% Malbec, and was fermented with native yeasts in concrete vessels. It was then aged in concrete (although the length of time isn't provided), and possesses a 14% ABV. The wine, which is fresh and bright, possesses a rich purple color, and a nose of black fruits and hints of herbs. On the palate, the fruit dominates, with flavors of ripe plum, black cherry and blueberry, but is supported by mineral notes (a stony element) and a subtle herbal accent. It's medium-bodied, with restrained tannins and good acidity. The finish is long and satisfying, and this is an excellent wine with a hearty meal. I drank the wine with some steak tips, and it was a delightful pairing. 

A complex and intriguing wine, the lack of oak helps you better understand the terroir, how the Malbec of his particular region differs from Malbec from other areas. Those who already enjoy Malbec will be thrilled by this wine, and others, who may not know much about Malbec, will also be thrilled by its taste. Highly recommended.   

Rant: Don't Stop Drinking Rosé!

As Labor Day has passed, it's a signal to many of the end of summer. As such, you'll stop seeing media advertisements for Rosé wine. Wine distributors will generally stop recommending Rosé to their accounts. Many wine shops will stop carrying Rosé until the springtime. This is all part and parcel of the myth that Rosé is a "summer wine." 

The reality is that Rosé season doesn't exist! It's a pervasive myth, a wrongful stereotype, that spring and summer herald Rosé season. The simple fact is that Rosé is appropriate year-round, even in the winter. Many of those perpetuating the myth of Rosé season know better, but they choose to ignore the truth. Stop deluding the public and embrace the reality of Rosé every month of the year. 

Sure, a chilled Rosé can taste wonderful on a hot, summer day, but it can equally satisfy when you are at home during a snow storm. If you can drink white wine in the fall and winter, there's absolutely no reason you cannot drink Rosé too. It's extremely food friendly, and there is absolutely no reason why you shouldn't enjoy it with the same roast chicken or seafood dish you serve in the summer or winter. Rosé is also an excellent choice for Thanksgiving. 

The situation has slowly improved during the last several years but significant change is still needed. There are some wine stores which stock Rosé throughout the year and if your local shop doesn't, then you should recommend that they stock some. And if they don't bring in some Rosé, then seek elsewhere for this wine. 

Share some Rosé this fall and winter with your friends, showing them the potential of this delicious wine. Don't ask if they want Rosé but just pour them a glass. Once they taste the wine, they'll probably come to the realization of what they have been missing.

We also need more wine writers to pen Rosé articles during the fall and winter, to persuade consumers that this pink wine is appropriate during every season, and not just during the summer. Raising consumer awareness is vital to spreading a passion for Rosé year round. We need to correct their vinous myth.

I drink Rosé wine year round and strongly encourage my readers to do so as well. 

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
********************************************************
1) There's a new dinner series happening at Boston’s Somaek – Seoul Mates, a multi-course collaboration dinner series which is kicking off with Chef Danny Lee of D.C.'s award-winning Anju, happening on Tuesday, September 16th. 

The multi-course, family-style dinner (which is priced at $125 a person), features a mix of Korean flavors from both Chef Danny Lee and Chef Jamie Bissonnette, Chef/Partner at Somaek. The menu will include five courses, alongside Somaek’s signature Korean banchan and dessert and be a part of a larger, monthly series bringing top national talent to Boston. 

For the first dinner of the series, Chef Jamie and Chef Danny will be collaborating on a family-style dinner, blending their unique, personal takes on Korean cuisine.

Sample dishes include:
Yukhoe, crispy rice, beef tartare, sea urchin, frozen asian pear, egg gel, grated pine nut
Mandu, pork & kimchi mandu served with apple kimchi
Dakkochi, spicy chicken thigh skewers served with kimchi toum and ssam
Daegu Jorim, a spice braised cod with Korean radish and perilla
Galbi Jjim, soy-braised short rib with fondant potatoes, carrots, charred pearl onions, and doenjang demi

Reservations are available on Resy and the series will be in partnership with Bina Farm Center, a non-profit organization which provides equine therapy for children and individuals with disabilities. 

Rant: Seeking Accurate Information

"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damned lies, and statistics."
--Anonymous

When you read a food or drink article, you'll find a number of alleged "facts" within that article. However,  are those alleged facts the truth, or merely errors which are being offered as "facts?" The same can be said for articles about all other topics as well. We are flooded with information from the media and plenty of it isn't true. 

The key question is always: Who can you trust for accurate information?

That cannot be easily answered. In the end, it's an assessment based on various factors, including a source's motivations, biases, knowledge base, experience, skills, and more. It's a crucial assessment if we want accurate data, if we want correct and honest information. If these matters are important to us, then it's our duty to seek the truth, or at least as close as we can get to the truth. And that's a sentiment applicable to so many topics, not just food and drink.

You'll sometimes hear the phrase "Data is truth," but it's not accurate. Data may or may not be accurate dependent on numerous factors, such as who is collecting the data, how they are collecting it, any definitions that were used, and much more. Plus, one's interpretation of that data may not rise to the level of fact or truth. Statistics can be easily manipulated to prove one's own agenda. Facts can also be cherry picked to do the same. We see this occurring all the time in the media. 

During the course of researching and writing my numerous historical articles, I've found plenty of claims, which were "common knowledge," and accepted by many as the truth, yet in the end, proved not to be true. It was easier for some media sources to repeat this common knowledge rather than do their own detailed research. Even some authoritative sources make errors, and sometimes those errors can be easily discerned through additional research. 

Over this past weekend, I perused a Facebook thread dealing with Chinese food, and I found a number of incorrect claims, some repeating "common knowledge" that wasn't actually true. The posters seemed so sure of their claims, but I had done my own extensive research on these issues and knew the "common knowledge" was wrong. However, I know those same erroneous claims will continue to be promoted by others. Too many people accepting information without verifying its accuracy, some refusing to change their minds even if confronted with the actual facts.

The key to discerning an accurate source, to determine what to believe, is to question everything. Question motivations, knowledge levels, biases and more. Don't accept anything at face value. Yes, it takes more time to do this, but it pays off in the end by providing you better and more accurate answers. That questioning can help you trust your source more. For example, the longer you follow a writer, the better you will understand them, and the better you can assess their biases, preferences, and knowledge level. That will lead to a better bond of trust.

Besides questioning everything, you should also consult other resources and not just a single one. The more references you consult, the better your chances of getting accurate information. Don't just consult Wikipedia for your information. Yes, it might take longer to do all of the necessary research, but in the end, you will get closer to the truth, a worthy goal. 

With the information overload found online, please remember that not everything can be trusted. Question everything, and seek as many references as possible. Trust and accuracy comes with time and effort.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
********************************************************
1) Committee, the Greek restaurant in the Seaport, announces a special all-day Brunch menu in celebration of Labor Day. On Sunday, September 1st, the Seaport favorite will offer some of its Greek and Mediterranean-inspired brunch dishes all day from 11AM to midnight, alongside the full restaurant menu. This gives guests plenty of opportunity to try the brunch menu created by Committee’s Executive Chef Sebastian Zuluaga, formerly of Saltie Girl, who joined the team this year and explore the new space as the team has also just completed a total refresh of the space, including the coveted outdoor patio.

The all day brunch menu will include:
Strapatsada Omelette – roasted cherry tomatoes, broccoli, onions, feta, served with potatoes and grilled pita
Smoked Salmon Pita – cucumber, crispy & pickled shallots, sesame seeds, scallion–manouri cream cheese
Pancakes – wild blueberries, whipped cream, caramel sauce
Greek Yogurt Parfait – fresh berries, maple sesame granola, Greek honey
Roasted Lamb Hash – sunny-side eggs, slow cooked pulled lamb, roasted potatoes, spicy tzatziki, pickled shallots, grilled sourdough

2) ‘Twas the night before (Allston) Christmas and all through the Sil, the creatures were stirring… but they weren’t a mouse. This Allston Christmas – the ritual, made legendary by college students ditching their apartment lease and furniture on the curb, with Gen Z dumpster-divers scoring big for their new digs – the Silhouette Lounge is getting the party started early with Allston Christmas Eve. Opening early on August 31, from 12pm-1am, the lounge will be decked in Yuletide décor complete with an inflatable Santa dancing in the wind atop the roof.

While jamming out to Christmas classics, scarf down The Sil’s signature “Sil Dogs” – all-beef franks nestled in their buns with the option to top them with ketchup, mustard and relish – for only $1* per ‘dog with the purchase of a boozy beverage. 

*Limit of one per customer at $1 pricing with the purchase of an alcoholic beverage

Channel your inner Clark and Ellen Griswold with festive drink specials: All I Got for XMAS is Storrowed, a High Noon peach vodka seltzer with a Pasoa passionfruit float ($10); The Grinch Who Stole My Parking Spot, a shot of Rumchata peppermint and crème de menthe ($7); and On the First Day of Allston XMAS My… bartender gave me their choice of a shot and beer ($10).

Rock around the Christmas tree in your signature ugly sweater that usually only makes its annual appearance in December and be sure not to sleep on the budget-friendly pitchers, pool, darts, pinball, Big Buck Hunter and – of course – free popcorn.

Rant: Drinking Advice After Labor Day

One week from today is Labor Day, what many people see as the unofficial end of Summer, despite the fact that the official end isn't until September 22. Labor Day also presages changes in the wine and beverage world, beyond the fact it's grape harvest season, and consumers need to pay attention. There are opportunities now that they should take advantage of, to learn more about wine and other beverages, to experience different drinks, and to enjoy plenty of delicious drinks. I've compiled some drinking advice for the Fall and rest of the year. 

1) Don't Stop Drinking Rosé 
It's a myth that Rosé is only a Summer wine. The reality is that Rosé can and should be consumed year-round, no matter what the season, especially as it's excellent with food. Don't be fooled by those who try to claim it's only a seasonal wine. The better wine stores understand that Rosé is great all year round and thus they will stock Rosé throughout  the year, even though many distributors don't push Rosé during this time. Thanksgiving is an excellent occasion for Rosé. For more thoughts on this topic, check out Don't Stop Drinking Rosé.

2) Celebrate International Port Wine Day on September 10

Port wine, produced in Portugal, comes in a variety of styles and types, from Ruby Port to Tawny Port, from White Port to Rosé Port. There are Vintage Ports as well as Ports of various ages, from 10 Years to 50 Years. This holiday is a great time to explore the wonders of Port wine, as well as its food pairings. For myself, Port and Blue Cheese is one of my favorites. You can learn much more about Port HERE, with links to my many Port articles, from the Origins of Port to numerous reviews.  

3) Celebrate Sake Day on October 1
Nihonshu no Hi, known in English as Sake Day, originated over 40 years ago, in 1978, by a declaration of the Japan Sake Brewers Association and is now celebrated worldwide. Japanese Sake remains a niche beverage in the U.S. so this is a perfect day to learn more about it, to sample some delicious Sake, and understand its wonders. Some local restaurants and wine shops may offer Sake Day celebrations and you should avail yourselves of that opportunity. For more thoughts on this topic, check out Celebrate Sake Day!

4) Celebrate International Sherry Week in November
This year, International Sherry Week will be held from November 3-9. Sherry may be one of the tastiest, most intriguing, and unique wines that you're probably not drinking. It remains a tiny niche beverage in the U.S. and like Sake Day, this is a perfect opportunity to learn more about Sherry, to sample some delicious bottles, and understand its wonders. This will be at least a couple thousand Sherry events across the world. For more thoughts on Sherry, check out All About Sherry.

5) Don't Stress Over Thanksgiving Wines
The holidays are a stressful enough time that you really shouldn't add to your stress by worrying about the wine. Do you really need specific Thanksgiving wine recommendations? I don't think so. The more I ponder the question, the more I realize that all you need for Thanksgiving are some good wines, the varietals and/or blends being much less important. As long as they don't blatantly clash with the meal, then they should work and few wines are going to so blatantly clash. Drink wines you'll enjoy and don't worry so much about "perfect pairings." For more thoughts on this topic, check out Rant: Stop Stressing Over Thanksgiving Wine.

6) Don't Be Cheap Buying Holiday Wines
As the holidays approach, you might be planning to host parties for your family and friends. You might need a selection of wine for these celebrations. Price is usually a significant factor in your decision as to which wines to purchase. However, instead of buying just the cheapest wine at a shop, ask the staff at that store for their recommendations for the best value wines. They might be able to suggest wines you might not have considered, wines which offer excellent value as well as taste. These are also some great discount wine shops worthy of your attention, offering compelling wines at a low price point. For more thoughts on this topic, check out Rant: Holiday Wines? Don't Be A Cheapskate.

7) DON'T DRINK & DRIVE!!
This is one of the most important pieces of advice you'll receive this season. Please give this your full attention. If you've had too much alcohol to drink, if there is any doubt in your mind, don't drive. Just don't do it! Err on the side of caution so that if you have any doubt of your capacity to drive, then please do not drive. Take a taxi or Uber, catch a ride with someone else, walk or sleep it off. Just don't drive! For more thoughts on this topic, check out Rant: DON'T DRINK & DRIVE...OR ELSE!!

What post-Labor Day drinking advice would you like to add?

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
********************************************************
1) On Wednesday, August 27th, at 6:30 PM, join Bistro 5, in Medford, for A Journey to the Italian Coast Wine Dinner.  Chef-Owner Vittorio Ettore states: "When I travel to Italy, I dream, I eat, and then I dream again. And like so many others, I find myself asking: Why is the food so good? Is it the skill? The sun? The bounty of the land and sea? Perhaps it is something deeper — a collective connection between people and their environment, expressed through food and wine. With that in mind, our fish is sourced as locally as possible, and our produce comes from the beautiful Kimball Fruit Farm in Pepperell, MA. This dinner is also a true collaboration, created together with our friends at Wine-Sense of Andover and Mucci Wine Imports." 

The Menu includes:

Antipasti: Chef’s inspired passed appetizers
La Sabbiona Vermouth Cocktail

Fiori di Zucca “Sardi” (Stuffed zucchini blossoms with Maine lobster, herbs and sheep milk ricotta, zucchini and basil emulsion, and Bottarga di Muggine)
Muscari-Tomajoli ‘Nethun’ Lazio Vermentino 2023

Paccheri Trabaccolara (Locally sourced seafood, large rigatoni shaped pasta, DOP San Marzano tomatoes, lemon zest)
Reale 'Getis' Costa d'Amalfi Tramonti Rosato DOC 2024

Tagliata di Tonno (Bluefin tuna loin, crusted with “Scaccia”, toasted fennel seed and pink peppercorns. Plum, Etna Rossa and orange zest “agrodolce”. Eggplant, plum and mint caponata.)
Palmento Costanzo 'Mofete Rosso' Etna Rosso DOC 2022

Torta della Nonna (Basil infused Ligurian tart, peach-lemon Mostarda)
Cantina Lilliu 'Dunkas' IGT Bianco Passito, Sardegna

The dinner costs: $150 Tasting Menu & Wine Pairings (tax and gratuity not included) and you can make Reservations HERE. 

2) On Wednesday, September 10, during normal operating hours, Anna’s Taqueria is ready to party like it's 1995 as they celebrate their 30th anniversary at the homegrown brand’s 10 Greater Boston locations. From open to close, Anna’s will roll back the hands of time and offer its legendary super burritos – 12″ fresh hot flour tortillas customized to your taste and packed with a main filling, cheese, rice, beans, lettuce, pico, hot sauce and jalapeños – at its original 1995 pricing, $3.50 per oversized bundle of love (Premium add-ons priced à la carte). Additionally, the first 50 faithful through the doors of each location on September 10 will score a commemorative 30th anniversary t-shirt with their purchase. 

Inspired by San Francisco’s Mission District, Anna’s Taqueria was first conceived with the goal of bringing the homestyle flavor of Mexican street food to the people of Boston. Brookline became Anna’s Taqueria first home in 1995, with an additional nine locations joining the family over the decades. Anna’s passion for bringing the best in Mexican food to Greater Boston is only outdone by its passion for supporting the people and causes in its communities.

2024 Varvaglione 1921 Susumaniello Rosé: A Puglia Prize

Apulia, also known as Puglia, is an Italian region which occupies the "heel" of the Italian "boot," bordering the Adriatic Sea on its east coast. This region is best known for its red wines, especially those made from Primitivo and Negroamaro. However, you can find other interesting red grapes there, although their total acreage may be small. One such grape, of ancient lineage, is Susumaniello. 

The name, "susumaniello," may derive from the term "somarello," which roughly translates as "small donkey." This may refer to the hardiness of the grape, as the donkey can handle a great load, or it may refer to the grape bunches, which some claim resemble an overloaded donkey. DNA analysis indicates the grape is a cross between Garganega and Uva Sogra, and there are some claims that the grape originated in the Dalmatian region of Croatia, although proof of such is largely lacking. However, as it's known Primitivo originated in Dalmatia, it wouldn't be a stretch to consider Susumaniello had a similar journey. 

During the 20th century, Susumaniello fell out of favor, as it became low yielding, and farmers preferred to work with more productive vines, like Primitivo and Negroamaro. However, in time, the low yields of Susumaniello became seen as a strength, indicative of higher quality, by a number of wineries, and the grape was saved from extinction. It's now used as a blending grape, as a single varietal, and in Rosé wines. 

Varvaglione 1921 is a family-owned winery based in Leporano, on the coast of the Ionian Sea, in Puglia. It was established just over 100 years ago, making it one of the oldest wineries in southern Italy, and is currently owned and operated by the fourth generation of the Varvaglione family. The winery focuses on the native grapes of the region, including Primitivo, Negroamaro, Malvasia Nera, Aglianico, Verdeca, Falanghina, Malvasia Bianca and Fiano. They own about 150 hectares of vineyards, and also purchase fruit from low grape growers. They are also certified sustainable. 

I recently received a media sample of the 2024 Varvaglione 1921 Susumaniello Rosé (about $19), which is produced from 100% Susumaniello and has a 13% ABV. The wine is aged in stainless steel, with periodic suspension of the lees. With a vibrant pink color, the nose is alluring with plenty of red fruit aromas and hints of spice. On the palate, it is crisp and dry, with bright red fruit flavors of strawberry, raspberry and cherry, along with subtle spice notes. On the lengthy finish, there's hints of minerality, and it's simply delicious. This would be excellent on its own, although it would also be an excellent food wine. 

Overall, this was an impressive Rosé, perfect for the summer, but which would be great year round. It would make a very good choice for Thanksgiving dinner. And at under $20, this wine is a good value as well. 

Non-Rant: Choosing A Wine Store

Introduction: Over 18 years ago, on May 9, 2007, I posted the following article with advice on Choosing A Wine Store. It was only the second article ever posted on The Passionate Foodie blog (and now there are over 5500 articles). With the first anniversary of Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet having occurred last Friday, I thought once again about this old article. I believe it's held up very well, and although today I might make some minor tweaks to it, the basic ideas remain solid. So, I'm presenting it as it was originally posted, without any revisions or changes. 

*************************

If you wish to just pick up a bottle of wine, something under $10, then almost any store would do. Any local package store, grocery store or wine shop could cater to that need. But, what if you desire more than that? What if you are looking for a good wine store, a place to buy some different wines, maybe a case or two? What are the factors that differentiate the good wine stores from the mediocre ones?

Price: One of the primary factors for many people is price. We all want a good bargain when making any purchase. And wine prices can vary, sometimes significantly from store to store. You can see the price for the same bottle vary from $1 to $20 dependent where you buy it. Some stores cater to less expensive wines, such as $15 and under. Other stores have a variety, with some less expensive wines but also a selection of pricier ones too. Much will depend on the type of wine you are seeking.

Bottle price alone is not always indicative of the expense of a store. Many stores offer discounts, such as 10-20%, for purchasing a case of wine. And usually that can be a mixed case. So, even though a store's prices may be a bit higher than another store, the case discount may even matters out. In addition, some places run regular sales where you can get bargains. There are also stores that run promotions where you earn points based on your purchases, providing special gifts once you have acquired a certain amount of points.

Selection: You generally want a store that has a diverse selection of wines. Who wants to see the same old wines all the time? Some stores specialize in certain wine regions. Others may sell wines from more unusual regions. A good selection will also include varied prices, from $10 to $100 bottles, something for everyone. Remember that there are literally thousands of wines available so no store can carry them all. But, do look for places that try to acquire a good variety of wines from a number of regions.

Service: You want friendly and helpful staff at a good store. They should have a good knowledge of wine and those they sell. They should be personable and not snooty and pretentious. They should make you feel welcome rather than nervous. They should offer suggestions and recommendations without being pushy. Good service can include being able to order wine for you if they do not carry what you want.

There are a number of other factors, of less importance, but which can enhance or detract from your wine buying experience.

Appearance: A good wine store is clean and should not have dust all over their wine bottles. Display racks should be easy to see the individual bottles and their prices. They might have note cards describing the wines, or providing ratings and reviews from wine magazines.

Tastings: A good wine store will hold free tastings where you can try some of their wines. This can help you decide on which wines you might like to buy. Many stores now have weekly tastings.

Extras: A good wine store will sell more than just wine. They might sell other alcoholic drinks, from beer to hard liquors. They might also sell various foods, such as cheeses, chocolates and sauces. This can make the wine store a better one-stop place to stock up for a festive evening.

Website/Email: A good wine store will have a website providing information about the store and any upcoming events. Some even may an email list that will keep you up to date on their events.

But, there is one factor which I think is the most important of all. Passion.

Passion: The best sign of a good wine store is the passion of the owner. You can see that passion in them when they help you, when they answer your questions and make suggestions. The owner clearly enjoys wine, and is sincere in desiring to spread that joy to others. You can see that passion in them when they help you, when they answer your questions and make suggestions. These are the store owners who will truly work at making a good store. They will take care to make your experience as fine as possible. Their passion will show in every aspect of their wine store, elevating them above the rest.

No one wine store will probably cater to all of your needs, especially selection-wise. So, it is beneficial to visit different wine stores, to see what wines they offer that other stores do not. Your favorite wine store might not stock Greek wines but another store might. Your favorite wine store might sell 12 different Oregon pinot noirs but you might be looking for an Oregon producer that your store does not sell. But, in the end, you will probably have one or two wine stores which you frequent often, those places which you feel are the best. And I am willing to bet that the owners of those places have a true passion for wine.

Happy 1st Anniversary To Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet!

Happy 1 Year Anniversary to the owners of Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet in Melrose! And Best Wishes for many more years to come. 

A year ago, I first met the new owners, Vijay, Andy, Puja, and Brian, and it was with a little trepidation that we discussed their plans for the shop. That's a normal situation with new owners of any business. What is their objective for the business? How will the business change? Will the staff be retained?

Their answers were very positive, and uttered with complete sincerity, so that my trepidations vanished. They wanted the shop to be an artisan wine, beer and spirits store. They certainly didn't want to turn it into a package or convenience store. They also planned on retaining any of the staff who desired to work there. Finally, there would be changes, but they hoped only positive ones, those which would further their primary objective. 

After this past year, I'm pleased to report that they have lived up to everything they told me that first day. All of the new owners are sincere and hardworking, fully open to suggestions from all of the staff. And all of the current staff previously worked for Beacon Hill Wine.  

Victoria Hill is a destination shop, not just a neighborhood shop, a place which attracts people from all of the surrounding communities. In large part, this is accomplished by offering products that aren't available at many other local wine and liquor shops, including the big box shops. The diversity of their selection continues to always expand, and have been greatly welcomed by the customers. 

For example, the wine selections, numbering around 600, include offerings from about 25 different countries, including less commonly available wines from regions including Croatia, Lebanon, Georgia, Armenia, Bulgaria, Serbia, Peru, Brazil, Slovenia, Hungary, Switzerland, and more. Wines from additional countries, such as Mexico, Canada, and England, may be added in the future when good choices can be found.    

To expand their wine selection, new wooden wine shelves, such as the ones pictured above, have been added, allowing the shop to stock even more wines. These two shelving units are devoted to Portuguese and Spanish wines, from Vinho Verde to Port, from Albarino to Txacoli.  

There's also a new shelving unit for Sparkling Wines (from Crémant to House Champagne, Cava to Grower Champagne) and Rosé Wines (from Provence to Txakoli, Italy to California). The shelving unit also has some Ciders, Non-alcoholic Wines, Mocktails and Mixers. 

In addition, about 25%-30% of their wine selection are "Natural Wines," which is used as an overall designation for wines that are Biodynamic, organic, sustainable, or similarly produced, whether certified or not. To more easily locate the Natural wines, you simply have to check the new wine price labels, shown above, and look for an "N" in the right hand corner. More Natural wines continue to be added all the time.  

The store also carries a variety of interesting and delicious Sakes, from Junmai to Honjozo, Ginjo to Daiginjo, Sparkling Sake to Yuzu Infused. And if you need help selecting Sake, just ask me while I'm working and I'll be more than willing to help you.

I continue to conduct Wine Tastings every Thursday evening, from 5-7pm, and every Saturday afternoon, from 1-4pm. The tastings showcase diverse wines, exposing many customers to wines, countries and grapes they have never previously sampled. Customers have been very appreciative of this approach, and open to tasting more unique wines. They have often found new favorite wines, buying wines they wouldn't have purchased on their own, wary of buying a wine they've never experienced or knew little about. There have also been plenty of repeat customers who regularly come to the tastings to experience these new wines. 

On Friday nights, there are also often additional tastings, of Wine, Beer or Spirits. Please come by any of these tastings to expand your palate and taste some delicious and fascinating new wines, beers and spirits.  

Besides the diverse wine selection, the Beer chiller contains an excellent assortment of craft beers and ciders, many from local breweries, as well as some of the usual favorites, from Modelo to Budweiser. Customers have been very complimentary about the beer selection. 

The Spirits selection is diverse as well, including some harder to find selections, from Blanton's Bourbon to Chartreuse. Local spirits can also be found, from producers such as Barr Hill and Short Path.

Another physical change to the store has been new and extra lighting, to make the store brighter and easier for customers to see all of the selections. A new chiller case was also added, which holds wines, single beers, and hard seltzers.   

More changes are in the planning stages as well, such as the addition of more wooden wine racks, and possibly a new wine tasting station. As the holiday season approaches, even more wines will be added, included more higher end wines, which are great gifts for family and friends. 

Many thanks go to Vijay, Andy, Puja, and Brian, for creating an excellent store, for carrying a diverse and interesting selection, and for being open to suggestions. They have worked very hard during this past year, and it has been a real pleasure to work for them. 

If you live in Melrose, check out Victoria Hill and see what your new neighborhood wine, beer & spirits shop has to offer. If you live outside Melrose, please also check out this destination spot as you are likely to find plenty of selections that aren't available at your own neighborhood wine shop. And please come to the tastings and learn more about the wonders of wines, beer and spirits from all over the world! 

Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet
538 Main Street, Melrose
(781) 665-3332
Hours of Operation: Monday to Wednesday: 10am-8pm, Thursday to Saturday: 10am-9pm; Sunday: 10am-7pm. 

A Restaurant Crawl in Newburyport: Cormorant, Park Lunch & Bar-25.

Last Wednesday, I visited my good friend, Adam, in Newburyport, where he docks his fishing boat, the Wharf Rat. Although we didn't go out fishing, we engaged in a short restaurant crawl, with Adam showing me some of the local highlights, including The Cormorant, Park Lunch, and Bar 25. It was a fun and tasty evening, including both food and cocktails, and enticed me to return soon to explore more of the culinary options in Newburyport. 

Our first stop was The Cormorant, a small burger restaurant, reminding me almost of a diner. We began with a winner, and which I give a hearty recommendation. 

The restaurant has a counter, with stools, on the left side, and several tables on the right side. It gives the diner vibe, and we chose to sit at the counter. Adam mentioned that as this restaurant is very popular, you might have to wait in line during the busier times. Fortunately, we had no trouble finding space on a Wednesday evening. 
  

The restaurant is open for Lunch and Dinner, Wednesday to Saturday, and Brunch on Sundays. The Lunch/Dinner menu has Starters (4 options for $17-$18), such as Street Corn, Gauc & Chips; Salads (3 options for $16-$21), such as Salmon Kimchi Salad; Sandwiches (7 options for $17-$20, with fries or salad), including Pork Cutlet Parmesan and Italian Tuna; and Burgers (6 options for $17-$20, with fries or salad, and there's an option to design your own burger). Each day, there's also a number of Specials, such as those in the photo above. If you check their Facebook page, you can see photos of their daily Specials. 

They also serve Wine, Beer and Cocktails. They have a list of seven Housemade Cocktails ($10-$12), and are able to make plenty of other cocktails if you ask. I was intrigued by the Bourbon Cream Soda ($10), made from Bourbon, Cream Soda, and Bitters, over ice. You can also make it a Float for an additional $2. It turned out to be delicious, and wasn't overly sweet. It was refreshing, a great choice for a summery day, and now I want to make them at home. A simple idea but one that worked very well. 

I opted to create my own Burger, with 2 Patties, Cheddar, Swiss, Bacon, and BBQ sauce. The Brioche type bun was butter grilled, and was soft and flavorful, while the burger itself was excellent! The large, smashed patties possessed a nice meaty, grilled taste, enhanced by the toppings, which added a touch of smoke and salt, as well as a mild sweetness. A top notch burger! The French Fries were also delectable, with a great salty crispness to them. I certainly cleaned my plate, immensely pleased with my burger and fries. Overall, the Cormorant now enters my list of my Favorite Burger spots. 

After our burgers, we traveled a short distance to Park Lunch, an old-school sports bar, which has been around since 1957. One of their decorative highlights are all of the university and college flags on their walls, and it's said that wherever you went to school, you'll be able to find its flag. Coincidentally, when I looked up from the booth where we sat, I saw the flag for my own university, Suffolk, on the wall above us. 

Park Lunch has an extensive menu of salads, sandwiches, burgers, pizza, steak, chicken, pasta and more. They are especially well known for their Fried Clams, and that's the reason we stopped there. The restaurant was fairly busy that evening, and it seemed many of them were regulars.

I began with a cup of their Clam Chowder ($5.95), and it was quite tasty. It was on the thinner side, not the overly thick chowders you find elsewhere, and contained plenty of clams and pieces of potato. It had a fine taste, and was something I'd order again. 

We ordered a Small Order of Fried Clams (Market Price, in the $40s), and received quite an ample mound of clams, more than sufficient for two people to share. The clams were generally plump and flavorful, although the coating had a touch of a gritty texture. It definitely wasn't a sandy grit, but it seemed to be an element of the breaded coating. Overall, they were tasty, but they didn't top my favorites from the Clam Box.  

We ended the evening at Bar-25, which has a Middle-Eastern inspired menu and a Prohibition-inspired bar. It has an elegant vibe, an excellent bar, and would be great for an intimate date or just a night with friends. It was relatively quiet that evening, but I can easily see how it would get crowded on the weekends.

They have plenty of offerings of Wine, Beer, Spirits, Cocktails and Mocktails. The Cocktail list (13 options for $13-$16) was inventive and intriguing. I opted for the BLT, made from sun-dried tomato infused Mezcal, bacon washed Ancho Reyes Poblano, Triple Sec, Lime, and Organic Agave. This was a superb cocktail, subtle and complex, well-balanced and absolutely delicious. This will likely end up as one of my favorite cocktails of the year. Highly recommended!  

The Food Menu is primarily divided into Mezze (small plates) and Entrees. The Mezze have about 19 options ($8-$22) and Entrees have about 8 options ($22-$38). Some of the dishes include: Braised Lentil & Naan, Persian Empanada, Fried Chicken Shawarma, Lamb Kebab, and the B25 Burger. There were plenty of options which appealed to me, but at this point, we chose to select just a single Mezze. 

We opted for the Haloum ($14), breaded Halloumi cheese, pecorino romano, and spicy shakshuka. Halloumi originated in Cyprus, and has a texture that reminds me of cheese curds. It's also a great choice for frying, as its melting point is high. Their Haloum had a nice crispy coating over the firm and tasty halloumi, enhanced by the mildly spicy sauce. 

This was a pleasant introduction to their cuisine, but this is definitely a restaurant to which I want to return, because there is no much more on the menu that I want to experience. Plus, I want to try more of their cocktails. 

What are your favorite restaurants in Newburyport?

Win 2 Tickets To A Wine Dinner at Matria!

You can win 2 Tickets to a special Stags’ Leap Winery wine dinner being held at Matria in the InterContinental Boston on August 21! 

On Thursday, August 21, at 7pm, Matria, at the InterContinental Boston, will be hosting a three-course wine dinner, showcasing the wines of Stags’ Leap Winery. The menu will include:

• An Amuse-Bouche: A deconstructed Short Rib Arancini, featuring layered creamy risotto and a tender braised short rib center, finished with roasted red pepper sauce, shaved Parmesan cheese, and lemon zest, paired with Stags’ Leap Sauvignon Blanc. 
• First-Course: A Classic Caesar Salad served in a parmesan crisp bowl, topped with a whole white anchovy, garlic chickpeas, and lemon zest, paired with Stags’ Leap Chardonnay. 
• Main Course: Filet Marsala, seared beef filet finished in a Marsala reduction with parsley-swirled pappardelle, trumpet mushrooms, and white and green asparagus segments, paired with Stags’ Leap Cabernet Sauvignon. 
• Dessert Course: Tiramisu, made with whipped mascarpone cheese, lady fingers, cocoa powder, and espresso, paired with Stags’ Leap’s ‘Lead The Investor’ red wine. 

The dinner costs $120.00 per person (excluding tax and gratuity). However, I've been given 2 Tickets to this exclusive wine dinner to give away to my readers. So, I'm holding a Contest for these tickets, and all you have to do to enter is to leave a comment on this post and tell me which of the four food/wine pairings at this dinner sound the most appealing to you. 

On Friday, August 15, at 3pm, I will randomly select one of the entries to win those 2 tickets. Please note this contest is only open to people 21+ years old. Please also note that you are responsible for leaving a gratuity for your servers. 

So which pairing appeals to you most?

Rant: Dires Times For Restaurants

These are dire times for restaurants, with a combination of factors contributing to the perils facing the restaurant industry. And it doesn't appear that these factors will lessen anytime soon. 

A recent CNN article addressed this issue, stating: "Local restaurants across the country are reeling as some key costs skyrocket and consumers — who remain nervous about the economy’s future — cut back and become less willing to pony up for higher prices."

Anyone who has gone shopping at their local supermarket understands the rising costs of many products, and of course restaurants face that same problem, rising ingredient costs. For example, beef prices, from ground beef to steak, have been rising to record levels and are up 10%-12% since last year. The prices of plenty of other ingredients have risen significantly as well. Thus, restaurants, which already operate on small margins on their food, have had to raise prices because of increased ingredients costs. 

In addition, many restaurants are facing labor issues, finding it difficult to find good help. This problem has been facing restaurants for a number of years, even before Covid, and is probably even worse now. That too has led to increased restaurant costs, which often lead to higher prices. I've spoken to a number of chefs in the last several years who have mentioned their difficulties in hiring quality staff. Plenty of other industries are having a similar problem.  

Complicating matters, and leading to further restaurant woes, is that consumers, of both lower and middle-incoming, are not dining out as much as they once did. They are having their own economic woes, and restaurant dining, often seen as a luxury, is one thing they feel they can more easily cut back on. And as restaurants are forced to raise their prices, it makes it more difficult for consumers to dine out.    

What's the solution? This is certainly not an easy situation to resolve. However, part of the solution likely requires consumers to dine out more. When you dine out, you can take some cost-cutting measures, maybe order less appetizers or less cocktails. Get take out from some of the better restaurants, rather than the usual fast-casual ones. Make dining out a special experience, so you feel you are getting your money's worth.

What other solutions do you suggest?