Casa Lapão's Convent Sweets: Tasty, Local & Handmade

In Portugal, as opposed to France, it's more about sweets rather than pastries. In addition, Portuguese pastries tend to use more sugar and egg yolks than French pastries, and they also tend to use more almonds and oranges. During my visit to Portugal, I sampled and enjoyed a variety of Portuguese sweets, including the iconic Pastéis de Nata, a type of egg tart. In addition, I visited Casa Lapão, a stellar bakery in the city of Vila Real, where I not only sampled their convent sweets but also learned how to make one of them myself.

Our visit to Casa Lapão was led by Rosa Maria Cramez (pictured above), the 4th generation to own and operate this bakery. With an abundance of warmth and passion, Rosa told us the story of the bakery, explained how it currently operates, and taught us how to make Cristas de Galo, one of the convent sweets. Plus, we sampled a few of their pastries, paired with a glass of Port wine.

Above is a photo of Rosa's great-grandmother, who was from Galicia, working in the bakery.

The origins of Casa Lapão extend back almost 100 years, to Vicencia Augusta Cramez, a bread kneader, who had a daughter, Miquelina do Carmo Cramez. Miquelina eventually married Francisco Delfim, a painter in the construction industry, who was nicknamed Lapão because it was thought he resembled a native of Lapland. At some point, Francisco decided to open a bakery, using his nickname, and locating it on Rua da Misericórdia in Vila Real.

Miquelina and Francisco were frequently visited by Delfina, a seamstress who had a sister in the Santa Clara Convent. When girls entered the convent, they commonly gave a dowry of sugar, so the convent became well known for baking a variety of sweets and pastries. Delfina gave the recipes to these convent treats to Miquelina and Francisco, who started making them at their bakery, which proved quite popular.

The baking area at Casa Lapão.

Casa Lapão continues to make four varieties of convent sweets, as well as plenty of other items, and you can check out their list here. The bakery only has 5 employees, all women, and they make all of these items by hand, an impressive feat considering the volume of their output. It is also impressive that they primarily use local ingredients. For example, they use about 4,000 kilograms of pumpkin each year. As the region of Vila Real was a poorer region, pumpkins were popular as they were easily grown and cheap, thus their use in the local pastries was common.

Rosa still owns, and uses, her great-grandmother's rolling pin!

These are the Pitos de Saint Luzia, filled with pumpkin and cinnamon, which a young woman traditionally gifted to her suit on the feast of Saint Luzia (December 13), the patron saint of the visually impaired. There is a legend that this sweet was created by a novice who used to fold eye bandages into a square with the points inward, and decide to make a sweet in a similar manner. These sweets also were an example of a common theme I found during my visit to Portugal, an illustration of the concept of the sacred and profane.

Casa Lapão likes to play with the names of their sweets, and Pitos is a slang term for the female genitalia, as it is thought there is some resemblance. Despite the sacred origins of these sweets, there is a splash of the profane with such slang. This dichotomy arose at several points during my tour and it seems very natural to the Portuguese. In part, it may be a way to show the Portuguese have a fine sense of humor, and are well grounded.

As for their taste, they were quite delicious, with a fine flaky pastry shell and lots of sweet, creamy pumpkin filling with cinnamon hints. They weren't overly sweet and there was a good balance between the pastry and filling. It certainly is an excellent fall dessert and would be a great addition to a Thanksgiving dessert table.

The Cristas de Galo ("crest of the rooster") received its name as it is shaped like a rooster's cockscomb. The pastry, filled with an almond and egg yolk paste, is baked in the oven. Again, the flaky pastry shell was buttery and delicious, with a creamy, rich filling with the fine taste of almonds. Another excellent sweet, and we learned how to make these.

Rosa started our lesson, using her great-grandmother's rolling pin to roll out the dough for the Cristas de Galo.

She already had the filling prepared, which though you might think there is pumpkin in it due to the color, there isn't. There are almonds, egg yolks and sugar in this mixture.

Once Rosa showed us what to do, we all tried to emulate her, rolling out our own dough, placing in the filling, folding the dough and then cutting the dough to give it the correct shape. We had plenty of fun, and once the pastries were baked, we were able to eat our results.

I'll freely admit that I need much more practice making Cristas de Galo, as my attempt didn't look too good. It isn't that difficult to make, but in my defense, I do very little baking. I still enjoyed myself very much and would repeat it again if I had the chance.

We also got to try the Bola de Carne, a pastry filled with ground meat, and it might have been venison. The pastry was flaky and light, and the meat filling was savory and spiced just right. This would make for an excellent appetizer.

It was a pleasure to enjoy the sweets with a glass of Ruby Port Wine

Across the street from the bakery is their cafe, where you can buy their sweets and pastries, either for take-out or you can dine in, enjoying them with a cup of coffee.

It is a casual spot, with plenty of photos from their history on the walls. It was closed at the time of our visit but Rosa let us inside for a look.

This is the cafe Menu, and you can see that the convent sweets are inexpensive, only 1 or 2 Euros, while a coffee costs less than 1 Euro. For such sweets that are homemade, prepared from local ingredients, and so delicious, this is a great value. If a similar bakery were in the U.S., I suspect the prices would be much higher.

As the cafe was closed, the shelves were mostly empty.

Many thanks to Rosa for providing us a fascinating tour of her bakery. Casa Lapão is a worthy destination if you travel near the Vila Real region, especially if you love sweets. There is true passion at this bakery, as well as plenty of hard work, and I appreciate that they use local ingredients, helping their community. We need more places like this in the Boston area.

Chef Marisa Iocco Is Back At Spiga: Guazzetti To Bread Pudding

Famed Chef Marisa Iocco has returned to helm the kitchen at Spiga, an Italian restaurant located in Needham, and that is great news!

A native of Orsogna in Italy’s Abruzzo region, Marisa moved to the Boston area in 1990 and has spent the last nearly 30 years working in a variety of well lauded Italian restaurants. The first restaurant she opened was Galleria Italiana, which earned many raves. Since then, she has opened or assisted in restaurants including La Bettola, South End Galleria, Bricco, Umbria, Mare, Gennaro's Five North Square, and Scopa. Back in 2009, she helped to transform Spiga and that was the first time I experienced her stellar cuisine, including her sublime Bread Pudding. Last year, Marisa returned to Spiga, to become their Executive Chef, assist owner Carmelo Iriti, and transform their menu. For more insight into the mind of Chef Iocco, check out my prior Culinary Creativity Interview.

I recently dined twice at the new Spiga, once for dinner as a media guest and a second time for lunch on my own. Spiga is open for lunch Monday through Friday, 11:30am-2pm, and for dinner Monday through Saturday, 5pm-10pm. With the warm weather, Spiga has an outside patio and on the day I had lunch, the patio was quite busy due to the beautiful weather.

The restaurant is medium-sized with an intimate and cozy ambiance. The intriguing pictures on the walls all have a single word within them, and the pictures are composed of the images of pieces of fruit.

There is also a small bar at the back where you can sit, have some wine and enjoy some delicious Italian cuisine.

I like that there is an open kitchen area, with a wood-fired pizza oven. Chef Iocco was present on both of my visits, working in the kitchen, ensuring everything was up to her standards.

The Dinner Menu is divided into Guazzetti, single-serve pots of simmered stews of meat, fish or vegetables (6 options, in 2 sizes, for $15-$22), Cicchettis, Italian “tapas” meant for sampling and sharing (7 options for $14-$16); Insalate (3 options for $10-$14), Primi, pasta dishes (10 options for $19-$24), Secondi (9 options for $27-$32) and Contorni, sides (3 options for $8 each). The Lunch Menu is a bit smaller, with Guazzetti (6 options for $16 each), Cicchetti & Insalate (5 options for $11-$16), Paste & Secondi (6 options for $14-$23), Panini (4 options for $14 each), and Fame di Pizza (5 options for $14 each).

The menus have something for everyone, no matter what your preference, whether it is seafood or vegetarian, steak or pasta, chicken to lamb. Portion sizes are ample without being overwhelming. There are usually daily specials available which might entice you from ordering off the menu. A number of the recipes honor the Abruzzo region of Italy.

With dinner, we ordered a bottle of the 2016 Giacoso Fratelli Nebbioli D'Alba, a young and fruity Nebbiolo, easy drinking and excellent for pairing with a variety of dishes. The wine list has plenty of good choices for Italian wines, and they have numerous other wines from other regions too.

We began out dinner with one of the Dinner Specials, a Pizza with fig, ricotta and prosciutto. Chef Iocco states that her pizza is a cross between Roman and Neopolitan, with Abruzzo accents. It had a delightful crust, not too thick and slightly chewy, with plenty of toppings, a nice blend of sweet and salty flavors. It is a good-sized dish and easy to split with two or three people.

We then enjoyed a couple of the house specialties, the Guazzetti. Allegedly, the term derives from the archaic Italian guazzo, which literally means "a ford," as in a shallow place where you can cross a river. This is similar to the English term "wade" and it is said that the main ingredients in these Guazzetti stews "wade" in the juices. Spiga seems to be the only local Italian restaurant offering these Guazzetti and it is worth visiting Spiga just to try these delicious and intriguing stews.

The Cape Bay Mussels & Manila Clams Guazzetto is prepared with chickpeas, smoked Italian peppers and a spicy, cherry tomato broth. The broth contained a great depth of flavor, with a mild spiciness, and was excellent for dipping your bread. The shellfish was tender, the broth making for a tasty coating, and the chickpeas and peppers were tender too.

The Veal Shoulder Guazzetto was prepared with porcini mushrooms, smoky coffee dust and blueberries. Once again, the savory broth had an excellent depth of flavor and the veal was tender and flavorfu. The blueberries added an fascinating element to the dish, a touch of sweetness to the more earthy flavors of the broth and veal. The coffee dust was more subtle, with a touch of smokiness the most evident aspect. An impressive and unique dish.

The Cauliflower Cannoli is a visually stunning dish, looking more like dessert. The cannoli was fresh and crunchy, containing a creamy interior of cauliflower, almost a whipped blend. Even though I'm not a big cauliflower fan, this was tasty and interesting. If you love cauliflower, then this is going to please you immensely.

From the Primi section, I opted for the Timballo, made with crespelle (kind of an Italian crepe), meat ragú, and locally sourced dried mozzarella. What an amazing dish, such perfect comfort food! It reminded me in some respects to a lasagna, though the crespelle is softer. The ragú contained plenty of flavorful meat in a superb red sauce, and there was lots and lots of gooey cheese. It is a hearty dish so bring your appetite. Highly recommended!

I'll note that Spiga uses handmade pastas, made predominantly in-house, are there are gluten-free options. The Spaghetti All Carbonara is made with house-cured smoked salmon, poached egg, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and pancetta dust. The pasta was cooked perfectly al dente and the dish had a pleasing creamy taste, though no cream was used in its creation. The plentiful smoky salmon was an intriguing touch, especially with egg yolk flowing atop it. Another good choice.

For a Secondi, we chose the Lamb Arrosticini, grilled lamb skewers, wood oven-roasted rosemary potatoes and a chimichurri sauce. As their website states, most of the Secondi dishes are "kissed by the heat of la furnacella...what we call our charcoal pit where we burn aromatized wood to roast, grill and smoke our meat and fish." This is a popular dish in Abruzzo, where lamb is a common meat.   The lamb was delectable, tender and meaty with tasty blend of spice and seasonings, and the touch of smoke from the grill. The potatoes were excellent too, with a great crunchy exterior leading to a more fluffy interior.

On my lunch visit, I ordered the Timballo again, which had a different look from the one I previously had for dinner. It almost looks like the lunch version was turned on its side. It was equally as large and equally as scrumptious. So much flavor in a great comfort dish.

For lunch, I also selected a Potato Pizza, with tender, thin slices of potato covering nearly all of the soft and crisp crust. As you can see, the pizza is quite long and easily could feed two people.

For both dinner and lunch, I had to order dessert, because I yearned once again for Chef Iocco's famous Bread Pudding, topped by a salty caramel sauce. The Dessert Menu has 7 options (for $9-$12), such as Sicilian Cannoli and Torta Caprese, but for me, there was no real choice. It had to be the bread pudding. After dinner, the first spoonful of bread pudding was pure bliss and I have to admit that I might have let out a soft moan of pleasure. Every subsequent spoonful was absolutely delicious, a hedonistic treat which I cannot recommend enough. Great texture to the bread, a nice blend of sweet and salty in the sauce, and nice hints of vanilla. It was equally as good at lunch and I wouldn't judge you if you started your meal with the bread pudding.

And as a bonus, let me provide a copy of the recipe for Chef Marisa Iocco's Bread Pudding, which I've had since 2009. You're on your own for creating a sauce to top the bread pudding.

Ingredients
2 lbs. crusty, day-old Italian bread
1 quart heavy cream
1 quart whole milk
6 eggs
2 cups sugar
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

Directions:
--Remove the bread heels and cut bread into small cubes
--In a saucepan, combine cream, milk, sugar and vanilla bean, and bring to a slow boil. Remove the mixture from the heat and allow it to cool and steep for one hour.
--In a bowl, whisk the eggs, then pour in the vanilla-cream mixture and stir. Next, add the bread cubes and allow it to sit just long enough to soak up most of the liquid.
--Pour mixture into a rectagular cake pan at least 4” deep. Cover tightly with foil. Place that pan into a slightly larger pan, then add about two inches of water to the larger pan to create what’s called a “bain marie” or water bath. This provides moisture during baking.
--Bake at 375 degrees for two hours. Remove from oven; let pudding “set” briefly. Cut into squares. Serves 8 generously.

It's great that Chef Iocco is back at Spiga. The food is diverse, plentiful, creative and delicious. And that Bread Pudding! Service was generally excellent, with one small issue at lunch that was quickly and professionally handled. It is easily accessible off Route 95, via the Highland Avenue exit, and it is also only a couple minutes from the Bin Ends wine shop. So, you can go wine shopping at Bin Ends and then have lunch or dinner at Spiga. Or vice versa.

Rant: Halloween Candy Isn't For Children

Stop lying to yourself! You don't buy candy to pass out to children who go trick or treating on Halloween. You buy that candy so you can enjoy it yourself. It's a holiday where you can gorge yourself, without shame, on chocolates, licorice, and other candies. Just be honest about it.

I've heard many people say that the number of children who come trick or treating to their homes has been decreasing over recent years. However, I don't hear them saying that they buy less candy. They to continue to purchase those huge bags filled with dozens of tiny candy bars or other treats. And they specifically buy candy that they enjoy themselves, knowing they will get to eat most of that candy. Sure, they may pass out a small percentage to the children that show up, but most of the candy will never make it outside. It will be consumed by the purchaser and their family.

You'll probably end up eating too much candy, in too short of a time. And blame the fact on not enough children showing up at your house. Just stop lying to others and yourself. Just admit that most of the candy is for yourself. In the end, the honesty will make you feel better. And you won't have to gorge down all of that candy so quickly. Instead, you can take your time, enjoying just a little candy at a time.

Sure, there are some exceptions, people who buy candy they dislike so they won't eat them even if not enough children show up on Halloween. And there will be some people who have numerous children show up on Halloween so that they have little, if any, candy remaining at the end of the night. However, those are exceptions and the majority of people will eat lots of excess candy during the days after Halloween.

You also don't need the excuse of the Halloween holiday to buy and enjoy candy any time of the year.  Candy is delicious, and you can enjoy it in moderation year round. It's a bad habit to horde all of the candy for a single time of the year (or maybe two if you count Easter). Do you really need all of that sugar within a few days?  Nah, it is much better to spread out your candy love throughout the months and stop bingeing on Halloween candy.

Rant: The Problems of Autumn

Fall in New England is a beautiful time, with the multitude of colors found in the leaves. It is a time for apple picking and hay rides, for savoring the last warm days before the chilly weather strikes. However, the autumn also brings with it a few food and drink issues, some of which I want to address today.

First, Rosé wine is vanishing from the shelves of many wine stores and that's a problem. It still hasn't caught on sufficiently that Rosé is a wine that should be enjoyed year round. Besides being delicious, it is very food friendly and works with plenty of fall and winter dishes. I've ranted before about this issue and will continue to do so until wine stores wake up and start stocking Rosé 365 days a year. There are some wine stores who understand, who keep stocking  Rosé, and they deserve your support and kudos. Tell your local wine shop to carry Rosé even when the trees are bare and even when snow falls on the streets.

Second, apples are such a wonderful and versatile fruit but they can be the subject of a few issues. At many fall markets, carnivals, festivals and more, you'll find candy and caramel apples, which might be covered with coconut, nuts, colored jimmies or other items. Candy apples were invented first, around the turn of the century, though their exact origin is murky. Candy apples, with their distinctive red candy shell, are usually made with a flavored boiled sugar recipe. Caramel apples, made with melted caramel, were first developed by Kraft Foods in the 1950s. The popularity of each varies across the country, though I have been noticing, to my dismay, an increase in the ubiquity of caramel apples locally.

I love candy apples, especially covered with coconut. It is not always easy to take that first crunchy bit of a candy apple, breaking through the hard shell, but it is rewarding. With a fresh, crisp apple, the candy, coconut and fruit make for a very appealing treat. For me, the caramel apple fails. I love caramel, from a nice sweet sauce atop ice cream to a salted, gooey center of a dark chocolate. But I don't like its soft gooey texture on a caramel apple. It is too soft, and just doesn't seem complementary to the crisp apple.

So I am dismayed that red candy apples are much less available lately. Where have they gone? Why aren't they more popular now? Why have caramel apples become much more popular? I don't have answers to these questions. But I want them to bring back my red candy apples. I want that candy crunch rather than the gooey chew.

Third, with apples come Cider Donuts, one of the best foods that exists. I love, love cider donuts but I am also picky as to the type that I enjoy. There are two main types of cider donuts, the heavier, cakey ones and the lighter, softer ones. I prefer the lighter, softer donuts, such as those from Russell Orchards in Ipswich.  They capture the taste of the apple as well as the spices that are added. With the more cakey donuts, you feel full after having one. They also tend to be more dry than the lighter donuts. So why do more farms seem to make the cakey cider donuts?

What are some of your food & drink issues with the fall?

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.. **********************************************************
1) On Sunday, September 27, at 6:30pm, Osteria Nino will host its first “Sunday Supper” event to benefit the National MS Society’s Greater New England Chapter (Waltham) whose mission is to drive research for a cure and to address the challenges of everyone affected by MS. At this family-style dinner, Osteria Nino has enlisted help from their friends at The Farm School (Athol), a nonprofit organization and working farm that trains and educates people about the farm industry. One of Osteria Nino’s favorite farms in New England, the Farm School specializes in certified organic vegetables, 100% grass-fed beef, pastured pork and more.

The Farm School will provide farm-fresh products and Osteria Nino’s executive chef, Walace Benica, will prepare a true farm-to-fork menu celebrating the best tastes of the local bounty, which will be paired with Italian wines and local beers. The four-course menu will be served family-style and presented as follows:

ANTIPASTO
Farm School Lettuces (radishes, celery, shaved fennel)
Farm Tomatoes (shell beans, breadcrumbs, aioli)
PRIMO
Rigatoni Cacio e Pepe (black pepper, pecorino romano)
Cavatelli All'Amatriciana (tomato sauce, cured pork, pecorino romano)
SECONDO
Misty Knoll Spit Roasted Chicken (spicy greens, polenta, last of summer eggplant caponata)
DOLCE
Lemon & Raspberry Granitas (Shaw Farms cream)
Mint Tisana (biscotti)

COST: $75 per person (includes beverage pairings; tax & gratuity not included). A portion of the proceeds benefit National MS Society’s Greater New England Chapter and the Farm School. Reservations are required via EventBrite at: http://sundaysupperatnino.eventbrite.com.
This event is open to all ages. Patrons must show a valid 21+ ID to consume alcohol.

2) From September 9 to October 3, Bistro 5 will offer one of my favorite tasting menus, the Heirloom Tomato Tasting Menu. Chef Vittorio Ettore always prepares an amazing dinner and the variety of tomatoes he uses is both intriguing and delicious. I highly recommend you check out this dinner.

Heirloom Tomato Tasting Menu: (all tomatoes featured on our menu are from Kimball Fruit Farms in Pepperell)

Brandywine
Miso, tamarind marinated bufala mozzarella, coconut-basil sauce and sesame cracker
2014 Aragosta, Vermentino, Sardegna
Green Zebra
Balsamic spaghetti, lobster and lemon basil
2013 Powers, Chardonnay, Columbia Valley
Speckled Roman
Smoked crème brûlée with caviar and farm greens
2011 Michele Chiarlo, Barbera d'Asti
Constoluto Genovese
Venison, black olive soil, romesco and shishito pepper
Eighth Cuvée Shebang, Zinfandel Blend, CA
Persimmon
Baked ricotta, pistachio and persimmon marmellata
2006 Vittucio, Vin Santo

Cost: Tasting Menu, 3 Course $55, 5 Course $75
Wine Pairings, 3 Course $20, 5 Course $30

Please make Reservations by calling 781-395-7464

3) The sixth annual Raise Your Glass for Jimmy presented by the Jimmy Fund Council of Greater Boston will take place 6-9 p.m. on Friday, Oct. 2 at the Battery Wharf Hotel in Boston. All proceeds support adult and pediatric cancer care and research at Dana-Farber Cancer Institute.

Admission to the event includes a wide variety of beers and wines to taste from August West Wines, Blue Hills Brewery, Boston Bottle, Gordon's Fine Wines and Liquors, Mayflower Brewery, Medusa Brewery, M.S. Walker, Plymouth Bay Winery, and Wormtown Brewery. The event also includes hors d'oeuvres, live music, and a silent auction.

Tickets are $75 per person, and early bird pricing is available with two tickets for $125 if purchased before Sept. 21. The first 150 guests at the door will receive a $25 gift certificate from Tresca. For more information, visit www.jimmyfund.org/raise-your-glass.

4) Confectioner Lee Napoli, whose history in pastry and candy in this city spans three decades, has been quietly conducting chocolate-making classes in a kitchen on the corner of Dartmouth and Montgomery streets in the South End since closing her retail shop, Chocolee Chocolates, in 2014. Often sold out months in advance, the classes were a local secret spread strictly by word of mouth ... until now.

Beginning Saturday, September 26 and continuing every first and third Saturday of the month thereafter, Lee is bringing news of her classes out of the shadows and into the light. Chocolate class dates for 2015 are: September 26, October 3, October 17, November 7, November 21, December 5 and December 19.

Each two hour class, held from 2-4 PM, begins with classroom instruction, then shifts to a commercial stove where chocolate tempering, truffle-rolling, and nut bark-ing become a messy but engaging activity open to "students" age 18 and up. Cost is $75 per person, with space in the class reserved by major credit card.

When class concludes, each student goes home with a one pound box of artisanal candy (retail value $40-50) that they made with their own hands, plus recipes. Napoli notes that her classes are "great for corporate team building, bachelorette parties, father-daughter outings, or truly unique birthday gifts."

Pre-registration for 2015 chocolate classes begins this week. Go to www.chocoleechocolates.com or call 617-236-0606.

MEat Butcher Shop and Lil's Cafe: More Kittery Foreside Hotspots

After a fine lunch at Anju Noodle Bar, I made a couple quick stops to two other food businesses in the Foreside neightborhood. I really need to spend more time in this area, lingering at these two and the other food businesses. I suspect that this neighborhood will only continue to grow and prosper, adding other independent businesses and enhancing the appeal of the area.

The MEat Butcher Shop, which opened in 2014, is a local, whole animal butcher shop and they
source their animals only from farms within 100 miles of Kittery. In addition, they focus on humanely, naturally raised animals, with no use of hormones or antibiotics. Their beef may be pasture raised or grass fed, and some is organic as well.  Here is a list of some of the farms they use, and you can also find a blackboard at the shop which lists the current farms. Besides meat, they also sell fresh produce, wine, beer, some pre-packaged foods and more.

The meat looked very good, ranging from various cuts of beef to sausages, lamb to pork, chicken and ducks. If you desire a certain cut that you don't see, you just have to ask. And they also can provide recipes if you so desire.

Their deli has plenty of charcuterie and cheese, including homemade roast beef, kielbasa, and Italian truffled ricotta. They make about 30 sandwiches a day, the type changing day to day, and once they sell out, there are no more for the day.

I bought some Sirloin Tenders, which were sourced from PT Farm, in North Haverhill, NH, and marinated them in my own homemade Garlic Teriyaki sauce. I then grilled them and they came out quite well. The meat was tender and flavorful, lean and juicy. If this is an example of the quality of all of the meat at MEat, then it is well worth visiting this shop.

After visting MEat, we made a quick stop at Lil's Cafe, which serves breakfast and lunch every day. They also make all of their own pastries and bread on premises. In addition, they have a variety of coffees and teas, including fresh brewed iced tea. Dan Ford recommended that I try one of their Crullers ($2.35), which looked like a glazed and grooved cake donut.

However, I was pleasantly surprised when I really it was actually light and flaky, more like French Cruller. The exterior is sweet and crusty, almost like fried dough, while the interior is flaky (like a croissant) and eggy (like the interior of a popover). Despite being fairly full from lunch, I still was able to devour this cruller because it was so damn good.  This is an addictive treat and I understand why they are so popular. Next time I visit Lil's Cafe, I'll bring several home with me, as well as try some of their other baked goods, like their Cinnamon Rolls or Monkey Bread.

Get to Kittery and explore the Foreside neightborhood.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.. **********************************************************
1) On August 20, from 6:30pm-11pm, Brass Union will christen their newly renovated outdoor patio by hosting a luau-themed celebration. Dubbed “Luau in the Square,” this summer soiree will transform Brass Union’s dueling al fresco areas into a Polynesian-style hideaway complete with tropical treats as well as festive torches, totem poles, lanterns and leis.

From the bar, Beverage Director Paulo Pereira will feature handcrafted sips from Privateer (Ipswich, MA) including the Privateer Patio Punch (Privateer Silver, black tea, citrus, pineapple, sugar - $10), the Mamma Jamma (Privateer Amber, mango, citrus, allspice, cinnamon, orgeat - $12) and Bounce, Boogie & Bump (Privateer tiki-inspired gin, orange, cherry, pineapple, Benedictine, bitters, lime, soda - $12). Executive Chef Jonathan Kopacz will create Polynesian bites including Pork Cheek Skewers ($7) and Vegetarian Skewers ($6), in addition to dishing out fresh tortilla chips with a mild tomatillo salsa ($3).

For additional luau entertainment, resident deejay Jeff Wallace will play the soothing sounds of the Hawaiian Islands and there will be a prize for whoever dons their best themed attire. Additionally, Brass Union will resurrect its patio games and there will be a custom photo booth with beachy décor to capture memories of this pop-up sanctuary in the heart of Union Square. Grab your hula skirt, leis and best Hawaiian shirts to help Brass Union celebrate summer in the city in a most festive way.

COST: Complimentary admission. Food and beverage specials available at a la carte pricing.
This event is reserved for ages 21+ with proper ID. Luau-themed attire encouraged.

2) Craft ramen with the works and hyper local inspired plates. Expect hand made ramen in ogusky ceramics, tasty plates + japanese whiskey and live blues. This is the 3rd Whisk Pop-up supper at their new home in JP. The space is moving ever forward as they build the restaurant and this is their way of sharing the ride.

The Whisk team, chefs Jeremy Kean and Philip Kruta, are hosting their third Whisk At Fazenda pop up Supper Club event in their new Fazenda Café. The newest Pop Up will feature craft ramen with the works in Ogusky ceramics, other hyper local inspired tasty dishes, Japanese whiskey and live blues. Some dishes are shared and some are not. All items also available a la carte.

MENU
Oysters on Moss (Pickled Blackberry, Basil Granite)
Aged Duck Ramen + The Works (all local)
Bens Wild Mushroom Ramen + The Works (all local)
Roasted Oysters and Biscuits (Sorrel Butter, Nasturtium Jelly)
Clay Baked Pork Belly (Roasted Berries, Rhode Island Rose Hip Smoke, Parsley Pudding)
Baked Oysters and Pork Belly (Ramp Butter, Sourdough)
Wild Mushroom Pie (Flowers, Sugar Beans Goat Cheese, Wild Onions)
** This menu is hyper local and subject to change based on what is available **

WHEN: Thursday, August 20 &; Friday, August 21.  Reservations starting at 6 PM to 11PM.
Reservations: Please call  617-756-7571

3) AKA Bistro is currently offering their own DineOut specials for the rest of the month, for both lunch and dinner. Lunch is $20.15 and Dinner is $33.15, Check out their 3 Course Lunch Menu, from Spicy Tuna Tartare to Fish Tempura. You cna also check out their 3 Course Dinner Menu, from Suzuki Ceviche to Sashimi Platter. I suspect the menu may change during different weeks, but I'm sure the menu items will all be compelling. This is always one of my favorite restaurant week experiences and I highly recommend you check it out. I know that I will be dining there at least a couple times.

4) Boston’s 7th Annual New England Dessert Showcase will take place on Saturday, September 19, from 12pm to 5:30pm. Visitors will sample indulgent, new dessert creations, old favorites and even some healthier dessert options from over twenty local exhibitors at the Westin Waterfront Hotel. 

General Admission, VIP and Private Tasting tickets are available. VIP ticket holders will receive admission to The Showcase, access to the Kickoff Party on Friday, September 18th and admission to the After Party following The Showcase. Private Tasting tickets include everything in the VIP package, all day admission, as well as early access to have an intimate private tasting with select exhibitors.

Saturday, September 19
12:00pm – 2:30pm: Session I
3:00pm – 5:30pm: Session II

Tickets are available for $30-$75 depending on ticket tier. Child tickets are available for $10-$15. General Admission tickets will be available at the door on a capacity only basis. Contact for group rates.

Pearson Farm: Georgia Pecans

The Pecan is the only tree nut that is native to the U.S., with Georgia leading the country in pecan production, and has for over one hundred years. The U.S. produces more than 80% of the world's pecans and 14 states grow pecans, though most are from Georgia, New Mexico and Texas. In 2012, the U.S. produced about 303 million pounds of pecans, with about 100 million from Georgia, 65 million from New Mexico and 55 million from Texas. There are over 500 varieties of pecan, many named for Native American peoples, though only 3 are actually commonly available.

Pecans are also nutritious, and "...are linked to lowering cholesterol, improving heart health, lowering cancer risk and managing weight. Pecans specifically contain 3 grams dietary fiber and over 19 vitamins and minerals including but not limited to vitamin A, vitamin E, calcium, potassium and zinc. Pecans are also a good source of oleic acid, vitamin B1, thiamin, magnesium and protein, all this at only 196 calories per one once serving (about a handful)." You can find more specifics on the studies supporting these health benefits here.

One of my favorite pies is pecan pie, though I enjoy pecans in a number of other dishes as well, from pecan-crusted fish to bourbon bread pudding with pecans. I recently received a media sample of Elliot Halves Pecans from Pearson Farm, located in Fort Valley, Georgia, and knew that I needed to enjoy them, at the very least, in a pecan pie.

The Pearson Farm was established back in 1885, when Moses Winlock “Lockie” Pearson and his wife, Cornelia Emory “Emma” planted the first peach trees and soon after started growing pecans too. Today, the family continues growing peaches and pecans. Their pecans are generally harvested from October to December, though with proper storage you can keep your pecans year-round. You can refrigerate your pecans for 9-10 months, though if you freeze them, they can last up to two years.

Pearson Farm sells three varieties of pecans, both in-shell and shelled. Their varieties include Mammoth Halves, Schley (or Papershell Pecans), and Elliot Pecans. You can get shelled pecans as halves or chopped. I received one pound of Elliot Halves ($11), and this variety is small but plump, round and delicious. They can be used in cooking or snacking on their own. This variety was first discovered Florida in the 1920s, and they are more rare, especially as their harvests can be sporadic.

I enjoyed some of the pecans on their own, and they provided a fine, nutty taste with a firm texture. They seemed fresher than some of the pecans I've commonly bought at the local store, and their price is very reasonable considering the quality of the pecans. Marilyn, my sister-in-law, makes one of my favorite Pecan Pies, which she usually makes for either Thanksgiving or Christmas (or both holidays if I'm lucky). I persuaded her to make one for Easter, using the Elliot pecans and it came out excellent. The pecans had a prominent savory flavor, and seemed to enhance the pie even more than usual. During the week after Easter, I savored a few more pieces of the pecan pie, heating it up and adding a little vanilla ice cream.

You can buy the usual commercial pecans at your local supermarket, or you can order some higher quality pecans from Pearson Farm. I think you would enjoy the Pearson pecans much better.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.. **********************************************************
1) Pastry Chef Jessica Pelletier of Menotomy Grill & Tavern believes that innovation is the way to make diners sit up and take notice. Her Smoked S’Mores in a Jar, which recently debuted, is something she’s betting you haven’t seen before.

Smoked S’Mores in a Jar layers a brown butter brownie, housemade marshmallow, graham cracker mousse and Heath Bar shards in a mini-Mason jar. Hot wood-chip smoke is then introduced and sealed in, producing a magical molten mess. Arriving at table, the smoke in the jar wafts out, thrilling diners with its faint campfire-y aroma. Alchemy in action – and more than enough for two -- just $7.

Pelletier changes her dessert menu at this all-American tavern often, and customers look forward to tasty choices like Orange-Cranberry Bread Pudding, Mocha Crème Brulee, Coffee Cheesecake and German Chocolate Cake. With a ten year career that began at the Ritz Carlton Boston and includes two years with Finale and four years with The Grafton Group, Pelletier is a seasoned pro who watches for trends, new ideas and firsts in desserts all over New England, and is given free rein at Menotomy Grill to try out whatever suits her fancy.

2) This Saturday, February 7, from 10am-2pm, it is the 5th Annual Massachusetts Farm Wineries Day at the Wayland Winter Farmers’ Market, which is located at the Russell's Garden Center.. At the Market, you'll find lots of vendors, from fresh produce to baked goods, pickles to meats, and so much more. It is an excellent winter market, and they also run numerous special events.

For Farm Wineries Day, there will be at least 8 local wineries in attendance, offering samples of their wines. The following wineries will attend:
Artisan Beverage Cooperative
Carr’s Ciderhouse
Coastal Vineyards
Mill River Winery
Still River Winery
Turtle Creek Winery
Westport Rivers Vineyard & Winery
Zoll Cellars Winery

I've been to this market before on Farm Wineries Day and it is an excellent way to experience local wines, and understand what is being produced in our own backyard. Check it out.

3) The Boston Police Foundation will host its first annual Operation Dine Out on Tuesday, February 24. Restaurants throughout the city are teaming up to “Back Up Boston’s Finest” by providing a percentage of their sales as a donation to the Foundation that supports the Boston Police Department. The goal of “Operation Dine Out” is to raise awareness and provide funding for the Boston Police Foundation and its marquee programs including “Crime Stoppers,” “Text a Tip,” “Crime Watch” and “Officer Wellness and Safety” which focuses on suicide prevention as well as health and stress management programs for Boston police officers. Financial support of these vital programs, equipment and technology supports the brave men and women of the Boston Police Department and improves the quality and safety of the department and the extended Boston community.

This year’s “Operation Dine Out” participating restaurants include the following:
· Alma Nove: 22 Shipyard Drive - Hingham
· Carmenlina’s: North End, 307 Hanover St. - Boston
· Cask ‘n Flagon: 62 Brookline Ave. - Boston
· Church Boston: 69 Kilmarnock St. - Boston
· El Pelon Taqueria: 92 Peterborough St. - Boston
· Longhorn Steakhouse: 401 Park Drive - Boston
· M.C. Spiedo: 606 Congress St. - Boston
· Michael’s Deli: 256 Harvard Street - Brookline
· Parish Café: 361 Boylston Street - Boston
· P.F. Chang’s: 8 Park Plaza Space D-6 - Boston
· Shake Shack: 92 Winthrip St. - Cambridge
· Russell House Tavern: 14 JFK Street - Cambridge
· South Street Diner: 178 Kneeland St. - Boston
· Stella Boston: 1525 Washington St. - Boston
· TAMO Bistro & Bar: 1 Seaport Lane - Boston
· Vintage: 72 Broad Street - Boston
· Vito’s Tavern: 54 Salem Street - Boston
· Wahlburger’s: 19 Shipyard Drive - Hingham
· Warehouse Bar & Grille: 40 Broad Street - Boston

4) Bringing Scotch outside the realm of Ron Burgundy, Eastern Standard’s Bar Manager Naomi Levy and Chef Matt Garland will take guests on a journey to greener pastures with the restaurant’s take on a Scottish Supper paired with a selection of the country’s finest spirits. Naomi will lead guests through four courses of Scottish fare paired with its namesake spirit and a brief history lesson on the more unique Scotches ES has to offer.

The menu includes:
Amuse
Snail Porridge
First Course
Kippers on Toast with Soft Scrambled Egg
Second Course
Haggis en Croute with Neeps and Tatties, Cumberland Sauce
Third Course
Scottish Blue Cheese
Fourth Course
Hogmanay Cake with Fig, Clotted Cream

Guests will start the evening with a Scotch-based welcome punch before moving into the night’s featured Scotches, which include the 1985 Bowmore, Highland Park, and Cask Strength Ledaig, followed by a special Atholl Brose Milk Punch. The event will give guests the opportunity to tip their hats to the land of Whisky (without an "e") in a night full of fun and camaraderie, and perhaps a few old Scottish drinking songs.

WHEN: Tuesday, February 17, 7pm
TICKETS: $89/person, gratuity not included. Visit http://easternstandardscotchdinner.eventbrite.com to purchase tickets.
Additionally, Eastern Standard has partnered with Reserve to offer $25 toward a booking for the Scotch Dinner. Reserve is guests’dining concierge. Book a table and pay effortlessly. Download here, apply promo code standardscotch, and reserve today. Promotion valid for first-time users only. All bookings cancelled within 48 hours of the event will be charged in full.

Rant: More Bread Pudding, Please

I'm sick and tired of cupcakes and froyo. It's time for something else, another dessert to take the world by storm. My vote for a replacement goes to Bread Pudding. It is a perfect comfort food, and is versatile so that you can create many different flavored bread puddings.

The origin of bread pudding extends back to the 11th century, as people tried to find ways to use their stale bread. A couple hundred years later, in England, it was known as "poor man's pudding" because it was popular with the lower classes. Essentially, bread pudding is made with some type of bread over which a custard-like sauce is poured before it is cooked. Numerous other ingredients can be added, from nuts to fruits, and you can use any type of bread, or bread-like food, such as muffins or donuts. It is relatively easy to make and can be absolutely delicious.

Back in December 2013, I made a wishlist for what I wanted to see more of in 2014, and one of those items was more bread pudding. I mentioned that there was a bread pudding bakery in California, Schulzie's Bread Pudding, which now has two locations. I wanted to see some local bakeries open which specialized in bread pudding. That hasn't happened yet but there has been some good news. Last week, Nation's Restaurant News reported on an increase of bread pudding during the past year. Part of my hopes have come true, there actually had been an increase of bread pudding during the course of 2014, though hopefully it will continue to grow in 2015.

The Nation's Restaurant News reported bread pudding had increased restaurant menu penetration for 5%, though there was not a discussion of its presence in bakeries. The article mentioned two restaurants which were serving bread pudding, including the Temple Bar in Harvard Square, which added a Coconut Bread Pudding with roasted pineapple and crème anglaise to their fall menu. This increase in menu penetration is a positive sign, and hopefully that the trend will spread beyond restaurants to include more bakeries too.

Where have you enjoyed bread pudding? And would you like to see a local bakery concentrating on bread pudding?