Shabo Telti-Kuruk: A Taste of Ukraine

Have you ever tasted a wine from Ukraine? Ukraine has a lengthy history of winemaking, extending back nearly 3000 years. At one point, Ukraine was the largest wine producer in the U.S.S.R., but Soviet changes destroyed many of their vineyards, forcing them to produce high-volume, high-alcohol wines. And with the current war in Ukraine, wine production is difficult, although some wineries are still trying to produce quality wines. 

Only a small amount of wines from Ukraine are currently exported to the U.S., and one of the newest importers is Spyrt Worldwide, which was established by three military veterans a few years ago. One of their major imports are the wines of Shabo Winery, and Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet, in Melrose, now carries two Shabo wines. 

The Shabo Winery was founded in 2003 by Vaja Iukuridze and his family, and is located in the village of Shabo, which the region has a 2000 year old history. Back in 1822, Swiss colonists established vineyards and winemaking in this region. When Vaja got involved, the area only possessed a run-down factory, so he had to build a new facility and plant more vineyards. In over 20 years, Shabo has become one of the largest wineries in Ukraine, owning about 1200 hectares of vineyards, growing over 20 different grapes, and producing about 15 million bottles annually. 

One of the grapes they grow is a native variety, a white grape called Telti-Kuruk, who name roughly translates as "fox tail," possibly due to the look of its grape bunches. The first mentions of this group extend back at least to the 16th century. This grape grows primarily in the Shabo region, with some vines over 50 years old, and total plantings equal about 70 hectares. The Shabo winery grows over half that amount, about 43 hectares. The grape can be used to make white wines, sparkling wines, dessert wines and can even be eaten as a table grape. 

The 2023 Shabo Telti-Kuruk Reserve ($27.99), with a 11.5% ABV, presents a compelling case for this native Ukrainian grape. However, information on its production is elusive. It's a light wine, with an alluring aroma of stone fruit, floral notes and a touch of ginger. On the palate, it possesses a complex melange of flavors, from peach to lemon, herbal notes to a subtle nuttiness. There's also a hint of brininess, with a mild floral element. Elegant and balanced, with lively acidity and a lengthy, pleasing finish. Absolutely delicious!

This wine would pair well with seafood, light chicken dishes, cheese, and more. I've never tasted this grape before, but this wine impressed me, and I see much potential with this native grape. It receives my hearty recommendation, and you really should taste it. 

And please check out my recent Rant, Wine Activism & Ukraine, which gives you more reasons to experience Ukraine wine.

Rant: Advice For Attending The Boston Wine Expo

Upcoming this weekend, Saturday March 7 & Sunday March 8, the Boston Wine Expo will return for its fourth year, once again at the Park Plaza Hotel. The 2-day event will feature over 100 participating wineries from the U.S. and the rest of the world. I've attended the prior three Expos and plan on attending the Expo this Sunday as well. Based on my experiences, I want to offer some advice for others who plan to attend the Expo this weekend.

At the Expo, you'll be confronted with hundreds of different wines and spirits, which can be overwhelming. There's no way, in the limited, two-hour period of your tasting session, that you can taste all of the wines, or even a large percentage, so what should you do? What's the best strategy to handle this intimidating dilemma? What other advice should you know about attending such a large-scale wine event? 

Though many don't like to discuss it, there's always a contingent of attendees that go just to get drunk. I don't advise anyone to do this. Instead, have fun, taste wine, but don't over do it. You'll want to remember what you experienced and tasted. Use this opportunity to learn about wine, to find new favorites, and to socialize with other wine lovers. If you just want to get drunk at the Expo, why not just stay home instead or go to a bar?

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What's my best advice for attending these Grand Tastings? Like many endeavors, the key is in your preparation. Don't just show up and drink, especially if you want to learn anything. Take some time and make a plan.  

Initial Planning

1) When attending the Grand Tasting, the sheer number of wines available for tasting is intimidating. To make the most of your limited time at the Expo, you shouldn't just show up at the Expo and wander around tasting wine. You'll probably miss plenty of wines you wished you had tasted. Instead, I strongly recommend that you make a plan beforehand, deciding which wine regions and/or specific wineries tables you want to visit and taste. Check the list of Participating Exhibitors (which currently lists only last year's exhibitors) to see which wineries will be at the Expo and select a number you want to visit.  You can also check out my own Recommendations.

2) When choosing which winery tables to visit, I recommend that you don't drink wines you already know and like. You can do that anytime and anywhere else. Instead, take this opportunity to expand your palate and try different wines, hoping to find new wines to enjoy. Never had Croatian wines? Then make an effort to venture to their table and try some of their wines, from Posip to Plavac Mali. Never had Greek wines, then check out their wines made from grapes like Xynomavro and Agioritiko. Seek out other wines from Portugal, Georgia (the country), Massachusetts and elsewhere. With all the diversity of wines available, it makes little sense to spend your time drinking the same wines you drink at home all the time. Be willing to experiment and taste something different. Make the Expo an opportunity to explore the wide world of wine.

Pre-Expo Preparation

3) How will you get to the Expo? Remember that you will be tasting lots of wines so you may not be able to drive home safely. No one should ever drink and drive! So, if you can, take public transportation, book a nearby hotel room, get an Uber, or have a designated driver. Please don't drink and drive. That is the most important advice in this entire post. DON'T DRINK & DRIVE!!

4) Eat a hearty breakfast or lunch before going to the Expo. If you're going to be tasting all that wine, you should have a full stomach to help nullify some of that alcohol. If you go on an empty stomach, the alcohol will hit you harder and quicker, and you won't last long. There will be some very limited food available at these events, but it's much better to start off with a relatively full belly before you even get there. And after the Grand Tasting, you could walk somewhere close to have lunch or dinner, to continue soaking up all that alcohol. 

5) Dress comfortably, noting that there is always the potential you might spill wine on your clothes. So leave those white shirts, blouses, pants, etc. home. It's a casual event so there's no need to get all dressed up, though you are welcome to do so if you desire. Just beware of the possibility of wine spills. It's also very important to wear comfortable shoes as you will be on your feet for at least a couple hours, walking around the tasting rooms. 

6) Please don't wear perfume or cologne as they will interfere with your ability to properly smell the wines, and will also interfere with the ability of other people to do the same. It's very important for a number of attendees to be able to smell all of the aromas within the wines. That becomes so much more difficult when a strong perfume or cologne clouds their sense of smell. So please show consideration for your fellow attendees and don't wear it.

7) Make sure all your electronics, such as your camera and smartphone, are fully charged. It's a pain when your battery dies half way through the Expo and you are unable to take any more photos. You might also be posting to social media while at the Expo so you want sufficient power in your smart phone to keep you going for the while event.

At The Expo

8) When you are tasting wines, please spit. Every table should have at least one spit bucket available. Every sip you swallow adds to your alcohol level and if you don't spit, you'll soon find yourself intoxicated. Even small sips can add up quickly. Once you're intoxicated, all of the wines will start tasting good to you and you probably won't learn anything. Spitting is the only way to navigate through a large number of wines, trying to discern which new wines appeal to you. So spit, spit, spit! At the very least, minimize the amount of wines you swallow and spit out the rest.

9) While you're tasting wines, take frequent breaks to drink water and eat snacks to help cleanse your palate. There will be a few vendors selling snacks at these events, such as cookies and candies. Water is also necessary to stay hydrated and the Expo usually has plenty of free water available. All of this will help keep your palate sharp and also try to limit the effect of all that alcohol.

10) Carry some napkins in your pocket. They will help if you spill any wine, letting you quickly blot up such a spill. In addition, your wine glass is likely to get a little sticky after you've tasted a number of wines and a napkin can help clean off your glass for continued tasting. Plus, if you nibble on some food, an extra napkin can come in handy.

11) If you really enjoy a wine, ask questions about whether it is available or not. Unfortunately, not all of the wines poured at these events may yet be available in Massachusetts. If it's available, they should be able to tell you the name of the distributor. Write that info down as it will help you locate the wine later. You can go to your local wine store with that info and they should be able to get the wine for you.

12) If you find a new wine you enjoy, how will you remember it? You can take notes, writing down the name of the wine, or use your cell phone to take a picture of the wine bottle label. Nothing is worse than tasting a great wine but later forgetting its name. You will taste plenty of wines at the Expo so the only way to ensure you remember which ones you enjoyed are to take notes or pictures. Taking a photo of the label is easy and you'll be very glad later that you have a record of your favorite wines.

13) Bring cash or a credit/debit with you just in case you want to purchase anything at the Expo. There will be some food vendors selling their items, as well as other lifestyle vendors, selling everything from jewelry to culinary knives. Some of these vendors offer special deals for Expo attendees so you can save some money off their regular prices.

14) Most importantly, make sure you have fun!

Maybe I'll see you at the Boston Wine Expo this weekend!

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) This St. Patrick’s Day, Margaritas Mexican Restaurant will be infusing a taste of Ireland into the mix. On March 17 – fittingly, a Taco Tuesday – the Mexican watering hole will be pairing any of their signature taco plates with a pint of Guinness for only $10. The taco plates – with three per order and all the fixings – include fish, chipotle chicken, grilled Baja haddock, Americano, shrimp, carnitas elote, birria, grilled veggie, and steak al carbon creations.

Additionally, available throughout the month of March, Margarita's will feature Over the Rainbow ($12.50-$13) as its “Margarita of the Month.” Crafted with Tarantula tequila, sour apple liqueur, and house made Squeeze – their signature margarita mix made fresh in-house daily – the bright green drink is finished with a sour rainbow ribbon and marshmallows.

2) In March, everyone’s favorite bunny is hopping into town to host an early Easter Bunny Brunch for festive families on Boston’s Waterfront and in Wayland.

On March 14, the Easter Bunny will host a magical morning at Coach Grill in Wayland. While kiddies patiently await the arrival of the cuddly rabbit with festive activities, settle in for a leisurely brunch with table reservations for up to 12 guests. Kids’ tickets ($20) include their choice of an entrée – a pick of Funfetti bunny pancakes or a waffle with maple syrup and whipped cream, or bunny mac and cheese – followed by a “dirt cup” dessert with chocolate mousse, chocolate cookie crumble and chocolate egg candies. 

For adults, Coach Grill will feature its signature brunch menu enhanced with standout specials like Italian wedding soup with mini meatballs and fregola ($12); a spring salad ($16) with the option to add on a protein; stuffed crêpes with cream cheese frosting and fresh strawberries ($16); chicken and waffle benedict with hollandaise and arugula salad ($24); an Easter quiche with roasted leeks, ham, gruyere and a baby greens salad ($19); and, for dessert, a strawberry shortcake with macerated strawberries and whipped cream ($14). During the little ones’ meet-and-greet with the Bunny, a professional photographer will be on-hand to capture the memorable moment before kids depart with an Easter basket filled with sweet surprises. 

Reservations are required via Tripleseat. For more information, please call (508) 358-5900 

On March 28, the Easter Bunny will hop to Joe’s Waterfront at the Boston Harbor for a brunch appearance. In between signature photo ops, kids will test their artistic skills with craft projects. Little ones can order up specials like Funfetti bunny pancakes ($14), mini Joe’s beef sliders ($12), or a cheesy flatbread ($10) while washing it down with kid-friendly drink specials ($9) like the Cottontail Cloud with cream soda, cotton candy and a marshmallow Peep, or the Bunny Punch with lemonade, Sprite, pineapple, vanilla ice cream and sprinkles. At the finale, burrow into a bunny-themed cupcake ($8). 

In addition to its traditional weekend brunch menu, there are adult specialties like caramelized carrot soup with toasted pepitas ($13); a spinach and apple salad with pecans and feta ($18); lobster mac and cheese topped with buttered crumbs ($31); Bananas Foster French toast with cream cheese frosting and maple syrup ($21); and shakshuka with stewed tomatoes, roasted onion and garlic, poached egg and crispy bread ($23). Cocktails features ($19) include the Lemon-Blueberry Sparkler with vodka, lemon juice and muddled blueberries; Main Peeps with tequila, lime, orange, Peep syrup and edible glitter; and Mini Egg Espresso Martini with vodka, Kahlua, espresso, chocolate milk, walnut bitters and chocolate mini eggs. 

Reservations are recommended via OpenTable. For more information, please call (617) 367-8700.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) On February 19, from 6:30-8:30pm, Howling Wolf Taqueria, in Salem and Portsmouth, New Hampshire, is back with another “Pack Night” featuring musical bingo. As the DJ spins music clips, stamp your bingo card identifying the right tune, and the first to hit the pattern wings. To the victors? Wolf merchandise and gift cards.

And for National Margarita Day, on February 22, Howling Wolf Taqueria will feature margaritas at wallet-friendly prices. All original and classic-flavored margaritas – strawberry, coconut, peach, mango, passionfruit, cherry, raspberry and blood orange – are available for only $6 (regularly priced at $9.95 each). For those looking to live in the lap of luxury, upgrade to Patrón for only $9.99.

2) On February 22, for National Margarita Day, Margaritas Mexican Restaurant will showcase a collection of value sips: original and classic flavor margaritas ($6), including strawberry, raspberry, mango, black cherry, peach, passionfruit, pineapple and watermelon; Patrón margaritas ($9.99) served in a souvenir cup*; and, because sharing is caring, Patrón Trees ($39) with your pick of four classic flavor margaritas served in individually-sized Patrón bottles.
*Souvenir cups available while supplies last.
Available at participating Margaritas Mexican Restaurant locations in MA, ME, NH, NJ and CT

Rant: Wine Activism & Ukraine

"With our wine purchases, I believe, we can help advance regional peace, provide support for farmers in war-torn regions, have a voice in geopolitics, and aid in economic recoveries."
--Peter Weltman

When you purchase a bottle of wine, you're doing more than just buying alcohol. It can be a political decision, a moral decision, an economic decision. You can become, and should be, a wine activist.

Back in 2017, SevenFiftyDaily published a fascinating article, "How Wine Buyers Can Become Activists" by Peter Weltman, a sommelier and writer in San Francisco. Peter described how his view of being a sommelier shifted, of how he became more of an activist by "leveraging wine’s privileged standing to improve people’s lives." He even created a hashtag for this activism, #BorderlessWine, reflective of being adventurous in one's wine choices, going beyond the usual suspects.

Unfortunately, much of the discussion on this topic has died off in the last several years. It was popular for a couple of years, but for unknown reasons, it didn't last. Peter's website is apparently gone, and the #BorderlessWine hashtag isn't used any longer. His thoughts though are probably even more important now than ever, in these politically turbulent times, so I wanted to promote his ideas once again.

Wine is often seen as a mere luxury, something of little importance in the greater picture considering all of the problems in our world. However, wine purchases can actually have a significant impact in numerous ways, even on a global basis. Such purchases are vital to the economies and political stability of numerous countries. It can be a valuable export, provided other countries are willing to buy their wines. To assist these countries, we should consider that potential impact when we decide which wines to buy for our consumption.

In his article, Peter discussed wines made in Israel, Lebanon, Greece, Turkey, Palestine, and Georgia. One of the first examples he mentioned included a collaboration between a Palestinian grape grower and an Israeli winery. He continued on, mentioning Chateau Musar, which continued to produce excellent wine through the unrest in Lebanon. These are people and countries worthy of your support, who are also producing quality wines.

One of Peter's primary points is that "Financial support of a country’s wines contributes to the well-being of regions, countries, and producers." Countries like Greece, whose economy has undergone much turbulence, economically benefit if more people purchase their wines. Georgia, which is still recovering from when Russia controlled the country, also benefits from more people buying their wines. With our wallets and pocket books, we can help to bring about positive change. 

Your support of wines from these regions should be easy because these countries are making plenty of delicious and interesting wines, often from unique and indigenous grapes. They often have lengthy wine histories, extending thousands of years into the past. They produce all types of wines, reds, whites, rosé, sparkling, dessert, fortified, and more. Wine lovers can learn so much by exploring these regions. I've introduced numerous people to wines from these regions and most often receive positive feedback from these people. 

These ideas came to my mind recently as the wine shop where I work, Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet, in Melrose, now carries two wines from Ukraine. Both of the wines, a White and a Rosé, are from the Shabo Winery, with its roots extending back over 200 years. The history of wine in the Ukraine goes back over 2000 years, and the Russian invasion has caused great damage to the Ukrainian wine industry, so that industry could use support. 

The Shabo white wine is made from a native grape, Telti-Kuruk, and I tasted it out this past Saturday and it was very well received by consumers. I found it to be delicious as well, and it would pair nicely with seafood, chicken, and cheese. The Rosé is a blend of Pinot Noir and Merlot, and I hope to taste it soon, as I'm eager after tasting the Telti-Kuruk. 

With the war going on in Ukraine, supporting their economy by buying their products can be a small way to help their country. It's difficult to obtain Ukraine wines in the U.S., but you have an opportunity now to purchase two Ukraine wines, and be a wine activist. And also get to experience something different, and expand your wine palate. 

I strongly urge you to read Peter's article and then give much more consideration to which wines you purchase. Try to support and improve these regions by purchasing their wines, as well as spreading the word about their wines. If you are so inclined, become more of an advocate for these wines, becoming an unofficial ambassador. I often passionately advocate for these wine region, and will continue to do so. Please join me in this endeavor.

As Peter concludes, "Wine transcends borders and bridges cultures, and it can be used to improve lives if we make the right purchases."