Rant: Don't Be A Cheapskate With Holiday Wines

The holiday season nears, and many people will stop by their local wine shop to purchase wines for parties, dinners, or gifts, for Halloween, Thanksgiving, Christmas, or other upcoming holidays. Let me provide you an important piece of advice for purchasing wines throughout this holiday season.

Don't be a cheapskate! 

In preparation for the holidays, people stock up on wine to serve their guests at the various parties, feasts, dinners and celebrations. Often, because they are buying bottles in bulk, purchasing multiple bottles, their primary concern is price, not quality. So, they too often buy the large, commercial "value" wines, the brand names which are known to everyone.

Please don't do it!

It takes almost no thought to buy such wines. Though such wines might be drinkable, they aren't going to impress anyone. You've chosen to take the cheapest route possible, in both price and time. These wines are generally industrial products, created to taste the same year to year, and you never know what additives might be in these wines. They are like the McDonald's of the wine world. Do you really want to serve such wines to your loved ones, your family and friends?

There's a better way.

If you're hosting a holiday party, don't you want to impress your guests? Or do you want to be known as the person who bought the cheapest wine available? Don't you want your guests to leave the party talking about the great time they had, telling others about the delicious wines they enjoyed? Or would you rather have them later complain that the wine was unappealing? It only takes a little extra work and price to elevate your wine selections.

I certainly understand the need to control your wine costs when you're providing for a number of guests. You don't have to buy $50 wines to impress your guests and you don't even have to spend $20 per bottle. I've purchased numerous $10-$15 wines, only a few dollars more than you might otherwise spend on those "value" wines, and brought them to parties where the other guests loved them, wanting to know where they could buy them.

There are good and interesting wines at this price point, if you know where to seek them out. If you want your holiday celebration to be even more popular, then you should serve those type of wines. The extra effort and money will elevate your party and bring more pleasure to your family, friends, and other guests. Isn't the holiday season the time to splurge a little more?

How do you find these inexpensive but interesting wines? At whatever wine shop you visit, it might be best to ask the wine store staff for recommendations of their best value wines. They should be able to direct you toward those inexpensive wines which will be more interesting and delicious than those cheap commercial wines. For example, at Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet in Melrose, where I work, I can recommend a number of much better value wines, from Vinho Verde to Montepulciano. I can help you impress your guests.

In addition, most wine stores offer a discount for bulk purchases, commonly 5-20%, and sometimes for as little as 3 bottles, which makes your wine cost even less expensive. And these are usually discounts that the wine store doesn't provide for the large-scale, commercial "value" wines. So, with those discounts, your prices for these better value wines can be even closer to that of the large-scale, commercial "value" wines.

If for some reason you can't ask a store employee for some recommendations, then my best advice for selecting a good wine that is $15 or under, is to buy a Portuguese wine. I think some of the greatest value wines are coming out of Portugal, especially at this price point. Chances are that if you purchase a Portuguese wine costing $15 or less, you'll find a delicious wine, much better than similarly priced wines from most other regions. And there are plenty of Portuguese wines available in that price range. There is probably no other wine region where you can find as many good wines at that price point.

You also should know that paying a few dollars more for your wine can make a big difference. When you start considering wines priced from $15-$20, your options increase drastically. You can find some interesting wines from all over the world in that price range, though they still offer value. And if you are buying in bulk where the wine store offers a discount for larger purchases, you can save enough money so that the wines end up priced closer to $15 or less per bottle.

So this holiday season, don't buy the same old cheap wines.

It won't take much effort to select some better choices, and still very inexpensively. In the end, you'll impress your guests, make your holiday party more memorable, and drink better wines.

(This is a revised version of a post originally from 2009. It's an important enough issue to raise it once again.)

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
********************************************************

1) For four decades, the National Mustard Museum has been sharing the history, humor, culture and downright magic of the "King of Condiments" with visitors from around the world. What began with Barry Levenson’s mustard collection has grown into a one-of-a-kind nonprofit museum dedicated to preserving an extraordinary collection and educating generations of mustard lovers.

As they celebrate this incredible milestone, they’re asking their friends, fans and fellow mustard enthusiasts to consider a $40 donation in honor of their 40th anniversary. Your donation helps keep the collection, education and magic of the King of Condiments alive for the next 40 years and beyond. Their goal is $10,000, and they are getting close to nearly half that goal, so they need more donors to help them out. 

The National Mustard Museum is a nonprofit organization funded by donations from generous supporters like you. The museum does not receive profits from the gift shop. That means every donation makes a direct difference in helping us preserve this unique piece of culinary history and continue our mission for years to come. Forty years. Thousands of mustards. Countless visitors. One very special museum.

Whether you’ve visited them in person, fallen down the mustard rabbit hole online, attended National Mustard Day, or simply love what they do, they hope you’ll help them mark this momentous anniversary!

As a token of our appreciation, for the $40 donation you receive:
MFA Diploma (Master of Fine Accoutrements)
Commemorative sticker and a magnet
Name on their digital wall & museum wall

For the $400 donation you receive:
Gift Box of the Curator's favorites
Name on both walls

To Donate, please go HERE. 

2) Are you a mustard lover? Are you intrigued about the history of mustard and its myriad of styles and flavors? Would you like to learn much more about mustard?

Ken Zuckerman, the "Mustard Maestro," will be teaching a one-night course, "Wurst Sausages & Best Mustards," through Arlington Community Education on Wednesday, October 21, from 6:30pm-8pm. Ken is the Head of Marketing for a local artisanal food distributor and a passionate devotee of all things vinegary & fermented. He's also on the board of the National Mustard Museum in Wisconsin, which sports a collection of over 6800 mustards, and which for the past 30+ years has conducted the Worldwide Mustard Competition featuring 500 entries facing off in 19 different categories.

The description of the class: "When attending a major sporting event or Oktoberfest, the aroma of sausages and hot dogs fills the air, accompanied by their essential partner: mustard. This tasting explores what makes a great condiment pairing, featuring award winners from the National Mustard Museum’s annual Worldwide Mustard Competition. Sample 12 domestic and imported mustards, from classic yellow to spicy brown and deli-style to bratwurst blends, paired with iconic New England hot dogs, sausages, and brats."

The cost of the class is $49 per person. To register for the class, go HERE.

3) Beginning this Saturday, September 26, AVRA Estiatorio will introduce weekend brunch Saturdays and Sundays from 11:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. at its Back Bay location within the Lyrik Back Bay complex at 400 Newbury Street.

AVRA’s new brunch combines classic brunch favorites with the restaurant’s signature Mediterranean cuisine. Guests can choose from an à la carte selection of brunch favorites, including French toast with berries and cream cheese frosting ($21); eggs any style with home fries and bacon ($21); the AVRA omelette with Boursin cheese and baby spinach ($22); a Nova smoked salmon platter ($24); and a warm, butter-poached lobster roll served on brioche (MKT). A Bloody Mary bar cart will also circulate table-to-table.

For those looking to experience the flavors of AVRA, a three-course prix fixe menu ($41.95 per person) offers a selection of Mediterranean and Greek favorites. Starters include Greek salad, traditional Greek spreads, grilled calamari, and tuna or salmon tartare. Main courses include chicken paillard, charcoal grilled Mediterranean sea bass, and grilled salmon, followed by desserts including baklava, orange cake or fresh fruit. AVRA’s extensive all-day menu will also be available à la carte.

Suwa Mantensei Kinoko Junmai Ginjo: Mushroom Sake!

"Kinoko" is the Japanese term for "mushroom" and the above pictured Sake was specifically produced to pair very well with mushroom dishes. No mushrooms were used in the brewing of the Sake, but its prominent umami creates a synergistic effect with the natural umami of mushrooms, intensifying the overall taste. 

 
The Suwa Mantensei Kinoko Junmai Ginjo ($39.95), a limited edition, is a new arrival at Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet, in Melrose, and it intrigued me from the start. I bought a bottle, knowing I would soon be enjoying a Japanese stir-fry with steak and mushrooms, and wanting to experience this umami pairing. And it was amazing, a stellar pairing that elevated both the food and Sake. 

The Suwa Shuzo, founded in 1859, was named after the local Shinto Suwa-jinja Shrine, which is dedicated to Suwa-no-Kami, a kami of valor and duty. The brewery is located in Chizu Town, in the Tottori Prefecture, which is a small town of only about 7,000 people and most of Chizu Town is covered by mountain forests. 

The President of the brewery is Masahiko Touda, who has a passion for foraging and studying mushrooms, a "self-proclaimed fungi investigator," so the Kinoko Sake was a personal project for him. There is some conflicting information, noting that Touda is the brewery's Toji, master brewer, but other sources note that the Toji is Hakuma Kyoji. It seems clear that Touda was a Toji, for some period of time, and during that period created the Kinoko. He might have chosen to retire as Toji recently, and now Kyoji is the Toji. 

The Sake was made from 100% local Tamasakae rice, a rare variety, first developed in 1954, which is mostly grown in the Shiga  and Tottori Prefectures. This rice is known for producing rich, full-bodied, and savory Sake, with a prominent umami. As a Junmai Ginjo, the rice for the Kinoko needs to be polished down to at least 60%, but the brewery polishes it down to 50%, which is what Daiginjo is polished down to. However, the brewery chose not to make the Kinoko a Daiginjo. In addition, during production, they use a higher ratio of koji rice, intended to bring out notes of smoke, honey, and soy. 

The Kinoko only has a 15% ABV, and is also vegan and gluten-free. This is also a Sake that can be served chilled, at room temperature or gently warmed, each temperature providing a different experience, emphasizing different elements of the Sake. The Kinoko possesses an intriguing nose of earthy elements, akin to mushrooms, as well as subtle hints of chocolate and caramel, although without any sweetness. On the palate, it's medium-bodied, rich and savory, with a dominant sense of umami, and a complex melange of subtle flavors, from cocoa to citrus. Excellent acidity and a lengthy, smooth and satisfying finish. 

The stir fry, with its beech and shiitake mushrooms, and shaved steak, was an excellent pairing with the Kinoko Sake. The umami elements were enhanced, and it was such a satisfying taste. Touda-San definitely accomplished his objective, creating a Sake that kills it paired with mushrooms. This Sake would also be a great pairing with truffles, which also possess their own significant umami nature. I would also recommend this Sake for pairing with certain Italian cuisine, and not just those dishes with mushrooms. Ripe tomatoes and parmesan cheese are rich in umami, and this Sake would intensify those tastes too. A mushroom pizza and the Kinoko would be a fine combination. 

I highly recommend the Suwa Mantensei Kinoko Junmai Ginjo, and it's a very good example of how Sake pairs well with a wide variety of cuisines. 

Celebrate International Plavac Mali Day!

Today is International Plavac Mali Day!

Five years ago, in 2021, the Croatian Wine Alliance, a group of global teams promoting Croatian wines led by the US-based duo, Aroma Wine Co., and Croatian Premium Wine Imports, Inc., made September 21 to be International Plavac Mali Day. This collaboration is a public and private partnership among organizations from the US, Canada, Australia, Europe and Croatia – all dedicated to telling the many stories of this indigenous and predominant Croatian red variety. 

Plavac Mali is a descendant of Zinfandel (aka Tribidrag or Crljenak kaštelanski) creating a natural hybrid with another indigenous variety, Dobričić. Plavac Mali produces several styles of wines, from medium-bodied and easy-drinking, to elegant and robust wines. The aromas in Plavac mali are predominantly dark berries and Mediterranean herbs with expressive tannins, and mineral on the palate. Plavac Mali means ‘little blue’, referring to its appearance, small and dark blue berries.

I've twice visited Croatia, and written over 85 articles about my experiences in that beautiful and wondrous country, as well as Croatian wine experiences I've had locally. I learned much about Plavac Mali, having visited numerous vineyards and wineries, and tasted a variety of the wines. That diversity is compelling, as you can enjoy fresh and light Plavac Mali wines, as well as heavier, more robust wines that will age very well. So, you can enjoy Plavac Mali with a wide assortment of foods, just dependent on which style you prefer. If you enjoy red wine, you should experience the pleasures of Plavac Mali.

My article, Volarević Winery: Organic Rakija & The Complexity of Plavac Mali, provides more information about Plavac Mali, its origins, as well as the efforts to study and research this fascinating grape. In some respects, and despite the long history of Plavac Mali, there is still much to learn about this grape, and that that times, research and experimentation. As I said in that article, "This is a grape which can present greatness, which can compare well to other famed red grapes around the world." 

If you're interested in trying some Plavac Mali, Croatian Premium Wine Imports is offering a special Plavac Mali bundle, which includes 3 different Plavac Mali wines with a 15% discount. If you just want a single bottle of Plavac Mali, they offer over 20 different wines, and my personal favorites are from the Volarević winery.

How will you celebrate International Plavac Mali Wine Day?

National Monte Cristo Day: The Origins of This Delicious Sandwich

Happy National Monte Cristo Day! 

For over 100 years, the Monte Cristo has existed although the exact date of its invention is unknown. The sandwich holiday was established in 2015, by the Bennigan’s restaurant chain, to honor their own Monte Cristo sandwich, which is made with honey wheat bread, ham, roasted turkey, Swiss and American cheeses before it's batter-dipped, gently fried, and dusted with powdered sugar. It's also served with red raspberry preserves, if you wish to dip it. 

A Monte Cristo sandwich is essentially ham, turkey and Swiss cheese between two pieces of French toast, though there are plenty of variations across the country. For example, the cheese might be different, the sandwich might be grilled or fried, it may contain spicy mustard, it might be served with maple syrup, and so on.  

I've long been fond of the Monte Cristo, although I prefer it as a savory variation. I don't want it covered by powdered sugar or syrup. What makes it special to me is the French toast bread, a great vehicle for the ham, turkey and cheese, but which also would make an excellent vehicle for plenty of other fillings as well. I enjoyed such variations as pastrami and cheese, chicken cutlets, and cheeseburger, each of which was elevated by the use of French toast. We need more sandwiches with French Toast as the bread! 

No one seems to know the exact origins of the Monte Cristo though it's believed to be a variation of the French croque-monsieur, which is a grilled ham and cheese sandwich, with numerous variations, that was likely invented in the late nineteenth century. Literally translated, "croque monsieur" basically means "mister crunch." The sandwich became famous when it appeared at a French cafe, Le Bel Âge, owned by Michel Lunarca, in Paris around 1910. 

However, the croque-monsieur received almost no publicity in U.S. newspapers until about 1928, years after the Monte Cristo was created. The earliest reference I found to the croque-monsieur was in the Boston Evening Transcript (MA), April 11, 1908. There was an article about a lunch at a Paris restaurant, and one of the offerings was a croque-monsieur, for 50 cents, and the article noted, "We have no idea what croque monsieur or Orloff  veal might be,..."

The next reference was from The Reading Eagle (PA), August 29, 1915, which discussed local women contributing recipes to a cookbook intended to help Belgian war sufferers. One contributor provided a recipe for croque-monsieur. And then there no other newspaper references until 1928.

******************** 

Although most sources allege the Monte Cristo was created during the 1920s, it seems more probable it was created during the 1910s, and maybe the later half of that decade. The earliest reference I found to this sandwich was in the San Francisco Chronicle (CA), February 18, 1920, which printed a restaurant advertisement for Tait’s Downtown. The large ad detailed a Special After-Theater Supper, and listed numerous dishes of which you could choose two. Under Sandwiches, there was a mention of the Monte Cristo, although no explanation was given.

It also seems probable that the Monte Cristo originated in California, as all of the mentions of the sandwich during the 1920s and early 1930s indicated it was available in California, and there weren't any references to it being available elsewhere. A Hawaiian newspaper in 1929 provided a recipe for the Monte Cristo, but didn't indicate that any Hawaiian restaurants offered the sandwich. It's curious that no one has ever stepped forward to claim credit for inventing the sandwich. 

The Los Angeles Times (CA), May 24, 1924 and Sacramento Union (CA), June 6, 1924, both printed the same recipe for the Monte Cristo Sandwich, the first newspapers to do so. The sandwiches contained only American full cream choice and slices of boiled ham, and not any turkey. The sandwiches though were dipped in egg and fried. 

The San Francisco Chronicle (CA), May 11, 1927, published a restaurant ad which offered a Monte Cristo Sandwich for 50 cents, the same price as their Chicken Sandwich. 

A reader submitted a recipe for the Monte Cristo sandwich to the San Francisco Examiner (CA), May 23, 1927. This recipe was different from the previous one, using pimento cheese with boiled ham. In addition, it called for a tablespoon of cocktail sauce. It too was dipped in beaten egg and fried. 

The San Francisco Examiner (CA), May 27, 1927, provided another recipe, and also stated that the Monte Cristo was a “tearoom specialty.” This is the first recipe to use Swiss cheese with the boiled ham, although still no turkey. 

The San Antonio Light (TX), October 18, 1928, Omaha Morning Bee-News (NE), October 19, 1928, and El Paso Times (TX), October 20, 1928, all briefly mentioned, “Snapshots of Hollywood collected at random: Seena Owen and Mae Sunday gossiping over a Monte Cristo sandwich at the Montmartre café.”

The Los Angeles Evening Citizen News (CA), February 8, 1929, printed another recipe, called for a specific bread, the Langendorf Royal bread, a famous bread brand at that time. This recipe called for cream cheese, mashed with a little cream. It also asked for a slice of chicken or ham. Then, it's mentioned that it should be served with jelly or relish, the first time this addition is noted. 

The Los Angeles Times (CA), August 9, 1929,  provided a recipe almost exactly as they previously did on May 24, 1924, except this time they mentioned garnishing it with pickle slices. 

The Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), August 29, 1929, was the first non-California newspaper to provide a Monte Cristo recipe, but this was simply a copy of the one above from the Los Angeles Times.  

The San Jose Evening News (CA), May 5, 1930, had an advertisement for a Coffee Shop with a partial menu, including a Monte Cristo Sandwich for 50 cents. 

It wasn't until 1934, that it seems likely the Monte Cristo started being available outside of California. The Tulsa Tribune (OK), December 3, 1934, printed a recipe for the sandwich, provided by Chef Harry Micas. It was noted to be "an unusual sandwich," good for lunch or a midnight feast. First, the bread was covered in egg with milk or cream, and then fried. After that, the bread was topped with boiled ham, chicken meat and a slice of cheese. Finally, it was toasted under a broiler, and served with spiced apricot. This may be the first recipe calling for both ham and chicken (but not turkey). It's also the first that calls for milk or cream added to the egg before coating the bread. 

The Des Moines Tribune (IA), December 22, 1934, in an ad for Harvest Bread, provided a recipe from Herman, the Health Chef. The recipe called for Swiss cheese and slices of Baked Virginia ham, but no poultry. The sandwich was also to be dipped in beaten egg, "similar to the method of making French toast." Curiously, the sandwich was served with tomato sauce, which is definitely a rarity for this sandwich. 

The Los Angeles Times (CA), January 29, 1935, offered a recipe calling for Tillamook cheese and boiled ham. No poultry was included. 

The San Diego Union (CA), March 19, 1936, published a recipe which called for boiled ham, sliced chicken and Kraft's American cheese. It also called for Nuco, "for spreading," although I'm unable to determine what that was. It also called for Snowdrift, "for deep frying," and that was a vegetable shortening commonly used for frying. 

A brief mention in the Los Angeles Times (CA), June 7, 1936, noted, “Peter Lorre favors the Monte Cristo sandwich as an article of diet,..” Peter Lorre was a famous actor, having appeared in some classics such as Casablanca and The Maltese Falcon.

The Oakland Tribune (CA), September 20, 1936, discussed an upcoming Tribune Homemakers Forum, where Chef “Joe” Beyl of the Athens Club, would "present three of his most popular recipes for the late-supper menus: Lobster Thermidore, Monte Cristo Sandwich and Tomato Stuffed with Tuna.” 

The Sexton Cook Book for the Sexton Market (1937) by John Sexton & Co., printed a recipe, by Frank Hurliman, for the Monte Cristo Sandwich. It only called for ham and cheese, with the addition of tomato, which was maybe the first such addition.  

The Modesto Bee (CA), February 2, 1937, had its own recipe, and called for three slices of bread, making it more like a club sandwich. It called for boiled ham and cheese, as well as chicken, lamb, pork or turkey. The sandwich was then dipped in a blend of egg, salt, pepper, and milk before it was fried. This may be the first mention of the use of turkey for this sandwich.   

The Highland Park News-Herald (CA), March 26, 1937, also had a recipe calling for three slices of bread, but it only called for cheese and Hormel's spiced luncheon meat. It was also served with Iris Currant jelly.  

The Los Angeles Times (CA), November 25, 1937, also called for three slices of bread, with a layer of ham, topped with mustard, and a layer of turkey with mayonnaise. Curiously, the recipe didn't call for any cheese. 

There was an interesting article in a London newspaper, dealing with a Monte Cristo sandwich served at the Warner's Bros film studio. The Daily Mirror (London), May 3, 1938, had a Hollywood page where the writer mentioned, “I often go to lunch at Warners,…because there is something on the menu there which I have never met anywhere else. It is called a Monte Cristo sandwich and it is no doubt very fattening and indigestible. But I keep on ordering it because I can never quite figure out how it’s made. It seems to be thin bread fried in a cheesy batter with thin slices of chicken and ham between. It is served on lettuce with a pickled peach and it is better and more elusive than it sounds.”

In a follow-up, The Daily Mirror (London), July 6, 1938, noted that Miss Gail Patrick, a famous actress who married the manager of the Brown Derby restaurant, had written down many of their best recipes. She provided the writer with their recipe for a Monte Cristo sandwich, which called for three slices of bread, ham, chicken and cheese. The sandwich pieces were set upon crisp lettuce, and a pickled peach was placed into the middle of the plate.  

The Modesto Bee (CA), December 17, 1938, ran an ad for the Schurra’s restaurant, which stated, “Try Our Monte Cristo Sandwich. Something New and Different.”

The Standard Star (NY), September 29, 1939, provided advice for visitors to Holloywood, including, “Food: One of the first things you have when in California is a Monte Cristo sandwich. It is delicious and substantial, I might add. It is a club sandwich affair which has sliced chicken, a layer of melted cheese and then one of ham. The concoction is then dipped in an egg batter and fried in a deep fat. The results are very tasty.”

The St. Joseph Gazette (MO), February 12, 1941, published an ad for a hotel, which offered “Ladies’ Lunches” and their special that day was “Hot Monte Cristo Sandwich, vegetable, potatoes, salad, dessert, beverage” for 45 cents. 

The Nevada State Journal (NV), September 17, 1942, ran an ad for a club which served supper snacks from 10:30pm to closing, including a Monte Cristo Sandwich for 75 cents. 

The Oregon Daily Journal (OR), January 18, 1948, published an ad for the Pago Pago restaurant, which had late evening specialties, including “The Monte Cristo Sandwich.”

The Minneapolis Star (MN), November 17, 1948, mentioned that local chef, Dale Kirkpatrick, named the Monte Cristo as his favorite. His recipe then called for only two slices of bread, with ham, cheese, and chicken or turkey. It was served with sweet pickle relish and potato chips.  

Monte Cristo sandwiches in Australia! Maybe the first newspaper mention of this sandwich in Australia was in The Mercury (Tasmania, Australia), June 2, 1949, which had this brief recipe, calling only for ham and cheese.  

The Galveston Daily News (TX), October 9, 1949, ran a restaurant ad, which offered a Monte Cristo Sandwich, Olives, Sliced Tomato, and Potato Chips, for $1.

Over the next decades, the Monte Cristo's popularity would continue to grow, although currently, the sandwich has decreased in popularity and much fewer restaurants offer it on their menus. It's time for the sandwich to make a come-back, was well as for other sandwiches to use French Toast as their bread.

As I've shown, the Monte Cristo likely originated in California during the 1910s, and it seems to have taken about 15 years for the sandwich to be created in restaurants in other states. However, recipes to make the Monte Cristo were presented in a number of newspapers across the country for home cooks to try. We also see that the nature of the sandwich varied over the years, and continues to come in a number of variations. We may never know exactly who invented the sandwich, but we owe that person a debt for creating such a delicious sandwich.