When's the last time you enjoyed
Fried Ice Cream for dessert (or even breakfast)?
It's been years since I've eaten this sweet treat, but there was a time, when I was much younger, when I used to commonly order it when it was available, mostly at Asian and Mexican restaurants. Different restaurants offered their own variations, such as different types of coatings and toppings. The photo above, from ten years ago, is a dish of Fried Ice Cream from the
Margaritas's Restaurant, and they still offer this dessert.
It's described on their menu, and priced at $10, as "Sweet vanilla ice cream with a salty crushed pretzel shell, covered in your choice of chocolate sauce, raspberry or strawberry puree, or honey. Mix and match, if you’re feeling loco!"
Who invented this tasty hot and cold dessert, a melding of frozen ice cream and fried coating? There are two main claims, one alleging it was first served in 1893 during the Chicago World’s Fair. The other claim is that it was created around 1894 by a Philadelphia company. However, evidence for both claims is scant, especially lacking in specific details such as the identity of the person who might have been the actual inventor.
Through my own research, it appears that the existence of Fried Ice Cream predates 1893, by over 20 years, and thus both of the above claims must fail. However, there doesn't appear to be any specific evidence actually identifying the inventor of this dessert, but we can garner a better understanding of its history over the past 150 years.
An ancestor to fried ice cream extends back to the Presidency of Thomas Jefferson, who enjoyed ice cream and helped to popularize it in the U.S. The Harper's New Monthly Magazine, April 1879, published an article titled, Dr. Mitchill's Letters From Washington: 1801-1813. Dr. Samuel Latham Mitchill was a prominent U.S. Senator and Representative from New York. One of his letters stated,
"Washington, February 10, 1802: 'On Tuesday I wrote that I was going to dine with the President [Jefferson]. The party was easy and sociable, as all these parties are. Among other things ice-creams were produced in the form of balls of the frozen material inclosed in covers of warm pastry, exhibiting a curious contrast, as if the ice had just been taken from the oven." Though similar in some respects, this was not yet fried ice cream, and more like an ice cream in a pie crust.
The first documented reference to fried ice cream that I was able to find was from 1870, over twenty years before its alleged invention in the early 1890s. The Evening Gazette (NY), August 30, 1870, described a grand party, which offered, "All the delicacies of the season. Peaches old and withered, serve in soup dishes, fried ice cream, roast ice, boned eggs, some boned out of a barn, and many other dainty dishes too numerous to mention,…"
Fried ice cream wasn't mentioned as a new invention, or offered as something unique, so it's possible the dessert existed for a number of years prior to 1870, although it hadn't received any newspaper coverage prior to 1870.
Five years later, the Cleveland Leader (OH), July 21, 1875, noted that “…the bill of fare on the Detroit boats is more varier than that of any other line of boats leaving Cleveland.” Although the boat only served breakfast, during warm weather, the menu included “…, with dessert of the usual kind, and fried ice cream, a new dish peculiar to this line of boats.” So, we see fried ice cream was now considered a new creation, not commonly available. So, maybe there was only limited availability in certain areas. And it's interesting to see that it was offered for breakfast!
The Cincinnati Enquirer (OH), May 6, 1877, mentioned that Dick, a well known eatery, had recently moved to a new location, and would be offering free ice cream on a Sunday. Eventually, they would sell ice cream by the plate or gallon, and “Fried ice-cream or ice-cream with a stick in it will also be served.”
The Houston Post (TX), November 17, 1880, briefly noted, “A Belton confectioner is trying to invent what he calls fried ice cream.” We have already seen that fried ice cream had already been invented, but it might not have yet spread from New York or Ohio down to Texas.
The Neosho County Republican (KS), September 27, 1883, stated, “The younkers at the Public School say that: ‘Prof. Jones treats them to fried ice cream, occasionally.” Younkers means "youngsters," likely referring to the students at the school.
On to California! The Mendocino Coast Beacon (CA), October 16, 1886, described a grand ball that would be held soon, and the menu included “fried ice cream for dessert.”
The Inter Lake (MT), June 23, 1893, mentioned that a menu for a party of bachelors included a dessert of “Fried Ice Cream.”
So, we saw fried ice cream available in New York, Ohio, Kansas, California and Montana, showing that it existed across the country, from coast to coast, before its alleged invention at the World's Fair or by a Philadelphia company. It probably was available in other states as well, although it might not have garnered newspaper coverage in those locations. Could New York have been the origin spot for fried ice cream?
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The first newspaper article describing the alleged origin of fried ice cream was published in April 1894, and it was reprinted in newspapers in over 35 different states, as far west as Hawaii. This certainly led to many, many people across the country becoming aware of this dessert. These articles claimed that fried ice cream was created by a company in Philadelphia, although curiously, the identity of that company was never mentioned. Why not? It certainly raises my suspicions, and as it appears fried ice cream had existed since 1870, the Philadelphia claim loses credibility.
The
New York Times, April 8, 1894, published an article titled, “
Fried Ice Cream. It sounds queer, but it tastes very good.” The article then noted, “
A Philadelphia firm makes a specialty of fried ice cream, which is pronounced delicious by all who taste it. A small, solid cake of the cream is enveloped in a thin sheet of pie crust, and then dipped in boiling lard or butter long enough to cook the outside to a crisp. Served immediately, the ice cream is found to be as solidly frozen as when it was first prepared. The process of frying is so quickly accomplished and the pastry is so good a protector that the heat has no chance to reach the frozen cream.” This article is also the first one to describe the process of preparing fried ice cream.
The
Indianapolis Journal (IN), April 15, 1894, added, “
Philadelphia, which has always had the reputation of producing the best ice cream in the country, has, during the past winter, gained fresh laurels in this direction by the introduction of fried ice cream. This delicacy is concocted at a number of fashionable cooking schools, and has come to stay.” If it was invented during the winter, then it might have been in late 1893, and not 1894, although specifics are still lacking.
The
Austin American-Statesman (TX), April 23, 1894, mentioned, “
A new society fad now looms up in the invention of fried ice cream by a northern inventor. As the success of the new dish, of course, depends on the rapidity of its preparation it is needless to add that the cook and all hands must have their skates on.”
The
Logansport Daily Pharos (IN), April 24, 1894, published an advertisement for the
Vendome, noting, "
Our Fried Ice Cream and Snowball Fritters are the talk of the town."
The
National Tribune (D.C.), April 26, 1894, stated, “
Baked or fried ice-cream sounds festive and like unto a fairy tale, but in reality, it seems, is quite a delicious fact. Small hard-frozen cakes of the cream are wrapped in thin coverings of pie crust, dropped in hot fat, fried and served immediately with no apparent loss of coldness or solidarity. The dough and quick work sufficiently guard against even the great heat, but it seems a lot of trouble and a painting-the-lily scheme to try to make ice--cream any better.”
The
Morning Journal & Courier (CT), May 1, 1894, had an ad for
Ferry’s Bakery & Café, which served Fried Ice Cream, "
The Latest Society Fad."
The
Champaign Daily Gazette (IL), May 16, 1894, noted that the Eastern Star of Urbana would give a Pink and White supper at a local Masonic temple. “
Fried ice cream will then make its first appearance in Urbana.” As a follow-up, the
Champaign Daily Gazette (IL), May 23, 1894, mentioned,“
Fried ice cream was served for the first time in Urbana and was voted a success by all who were there in time to sample it. The supply was soon exhausted.”
The
Poughkeepsie Eagle-News (NY), June 9, 1894, stated that the latest addition to the bill of fare at
Sweet & Grisards restaurant was fried ice cream.
The
News & Observer (NC), February 26, 1896, described a situation where a woman asked a caterer whether fried ice cream existed or not. He replied that “
fried ice cream was one of the most toothsome dainties on the menu.”
In a cookbook, Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner, or What to Eat and How to Prepare It (1897) by Maud C. Cooke offered a recipe for "Fried Ice Cream.--A small, solid cake of the cream is enveloped in a thin sheet of pie crust, and then dipped in boiling lard or butter long enough to cook the outside to a crisp. Served immediately, the ice cream is found to be as solidly frozen as when it was first prepared. The process of frying is so quickly accomplished, and the pastry is so good a protector, that the heat has no chance to reach the frozen cream. It is pronounced delicious." This recipe isn't any different from what was provided by the newspapers in 1894, so it clearly wasn't Maud's creation.
In
Food, Home and Garden (December 1899), there was an ad for
Diamond Butter Oil, mentioning that it was good to use to make Fried Ice Cream.
Fried ice cream losing its popularity? The
Evansville Journal (IN), January 10, 1901, briefly noted, “
After the fad for fried ice cream had lived out its day in New York, and just at the time, too, when even novices had learned to dip the sliced ice in the batter and fry it before it melted,…”
There was a recipe in
Mrs. Owens’ New Cook Book and Complete Household Manual (1899) by
Mrs. Frances E. Owens. The recipe stated, “
Fried Ice Cream—Take a small solid cake of any ice cream, enclose securely in a thin sheet of pie crust and immerse in hot fat long enough to cook the paste. Serve at once and the cream will be found to be frozen still.”
The
Buffalo Courier Express (NY), April 23, 1902, offered a unique fried ice cream recipe, which they called
Ice Cream Croquettes. Rather than just being covered by a thin sheet of pie crust, the frozen ice cream was covered with egg white and then macaroon crumbs before frying. Then, the dessert was served with chocolate sauce, the first mention of any topping for fried ice cream.
The
Blanchardville Blade (WI), April 3, 1903, ran an ad for
Camp’s Restaurant & Café, which served, “
Fried Ice Cream to Order.”
The World's Fair and fried ice cream! The
St. Louis Republic (MO), November 4, 1903, reported on some recent suggestions received at the upcoming World’s Fair for concessions or features which might be considered “
eccentric.” One of those included a concession to sell ‘
fried ice cream.’
Joseph Sasso, of
Lakewood, New York, stated, “
It would be served in solid blocks, eaten hot, and yet at the same time cold….This plan of mine has not yet been tried and is my own invention.”
As a follow-up, the
Indianapolis Star, (IN) November 7, 1903, reported that Sasso had obtained a concession at the
Lousiana Purchase Exposition to sell fried ice cream. “
And he contends that he freezes the confection without ice and fries it without fire.” Sasso stated, “
The invention is my own, thoroughly practical, and yet, as this will be the first time it shall have been tried, I can not disclose the secrets of my invention. The delicacy which I serve is wholesome, pure and palatable, either in hot or cold weather.”
There wasn't any mention that fried ice cream had been available at the 1893 World's Fair, and Sasso apparently tried to claim to be the inventor of this dish, although it's possible he was only claiming to have invented his own special process to create this dish. Additional details about Sasso and his creation are elusive.
Fried ice cream leading to dates? The
Okolona Messenger (MS), November 7, 1906, provided a series of brief ads for David & Bell, such as: “
Fried Ice Cream is just the thing for a banquet or club meeting,” “
If you set them up to Fried Ice Cream the girls are bound to like you,” and “
The most delicious product of the confectioner’s art—Fried Ice Cream.”
The
North Alabamian (AL), November 8, 1906, briefly noted, “
New product—fried ice cream at Sevier’s.”
The
Boston Globe (MA), June 2, 1907, printed this recipe from from
Bethra Liedean. This is similar to nearly all of the prior recipes.
A new quote and comparison about fried ice cream. The
Charlotte News (NC), November 6, 1907, briefly noted, “
Kisses of hypocrites taste like fried ice cream.” This apparently became a relatively famous quote, that would be repeated in multiple newspapers all across the country, and continued to be repeated in newspapers until at least 1916.
No explanation of the quote was ever provided, but I suspect it means that the kiss of a hypocrite may feel warm upfront (like the outer warm pastry shell of fried ice cream), but it conceals the coldness of the hypocrite beneath it (the frozen ice cream within).
A price for fried ice cream. The Clinton Register (IL), June 12, 1908, provided the first known price for this dessert. “Fried ice cream thirteen cents a cake, guaranteed hard enough to crumble. Call at Conner’s café.” This would be about $4.60 today.
The Chicago World's Fair! The Ice Cream Trade Journal, January 1909, published an article on the Origin and Development of the Ice Cream Industry. One section mentioned fried ice cream, claiming it was also known as “Alaska pie” or “Alaska fritters,” although those terms seemed to be rarely used. The article continued, “The method is, briefly, to dip a cube of hard ice cream into a thin fritter batter and then to plunge it into very hot lard or olive oil. The pastry forms a food protector from the heat and hardens so quickly that the cream is not softened in the least. Another more elaborate form is said to be serve in certain New York cafes today.” Unfortunately, the article didn't mention what some New York cafes did differently.
An intriguing brief item from this article claimed, “
The fried ice cream was introduced at the World’s Fair in Chicago in 1893.” No other specifics were provided, such as the identity of the inventor. Note that this claim was made 16 years after the World's Fair, and was the first such mention of a connection.
The
World's Columbian Exposition, also known as the
Chicago World's Fair, was held from May 1 to October 31, 1893, to celebrate the 400th anniversary of the arrival of Christopher Columbus in the New World. Later newspapers would repeat the claim that fried ice cream originated at the Fair, but again, none of those references provided any specific details. They simply repeated the same basic allegation. And without any supporting evidence, one has to take this claim with a grain of salt. Plus, the existence of fried ice cream prior to 1893 negates this claim of origin.
A cartoon from
The Bulletin (CA), July 27, 1910. “
Got any fried ice cream.”
A new claimant! The
Boston Globe (MA), November 4, 1951, ran an article titled, “
Boston’s Woman Chef Can Even Fry Ice Cream.” The article was about Kentucky-born
Lillian Burchett, who currently worked at the
Hotel Puritan in Boston. She was described as, “
The lady who dreamed up Black Bottom pie and fried ice cream (you read it right)….” She had a daily radio program, and her work required much research and testing of recipes in the experimental kitchen. “
It was in this kitchen that the now famous recipe for fried ice cream was perfected.”
Lillian stated,“What I was looking for was an ice-cream fritter. Mrs. Bruchett reveals, I’d take very hard vanilla ice-cream balls and roll them in batter but I couldn’t seem to make the batter stick. Finally I found a cereal flake that when mixed with cinnamon and flour stuck when dropped for a moment in hot fat. All you have to do then is pop it in the deep freeze till ready to serve with fudge sauce or as is.” Obviously she couldn't have invented fried ice cream, but she may have created her own variation, using cereal flakes, cinnamon and flour as a coating rather than a thin pice crust or batter.
And one more claimant! The Daily Item (MA), March 25, 1961, noted the existence of fried ice cream in Tokyo. “You get it in the tempura restaurants, where they fry your food in sesame seed deep fat, right in front of you, a bite at a time.” The article continued, “The scoop of frozen ice cream is brought in quick. It is dipped in batter which provides a kind of insulating later. Then the whole thing is plopped into the deep fat and fried like a doughnut for less than a minute. You pick up this fried snowball with chopsticks and nibble away at it.” And the Transcript-Telegram (MA), June 18, 1966, added, “The Japanese invented fried ice cream.”
Yes, fried ice cream became popular in Japanese restaurants in the 1960s, spreading to other Asian restaurants as well, but there's again no evidence that the Japanese invented it. Ice cream first came to Japan around 1869, but we already have seen that fried ice cream existed in the U.S. since at least 1870, so it would be near impossible for Japan to have invented it.
So, we don't know exactly who invented Fried Ice Cream, but we see that it has existed since at least 1870, and maybe earlier. We have seen though that the two main claimants to having invented it, the World's Fair in 1893 and a Philadelphia company in 1894, lack supporting evidence and their claims were over 20 years after the first documented mention of fried ice cream. So, their claims must fail.
Where have you recently enjoyed fried ice cream?
