Amabuki Yamahai Junmai Omachi: An Intriguing Sake Made with Marigold Yeast

Most Sake is produced using Sake yeast, and there are a variety of commercial yeasts available, and each type has a specific profile. Other breweries may use native yeasts, although that's a riskier proposition, but can also create more unique aromas and flavors. And still other breweries have adopted the use of flower yeasts, derived from a variety of flowers and fruits. You can find flower yeasts from sunflowers, begonia, rhododendron, bananas, strawberries, apples, and more. New flower yeasts also continue to be produced. 

The Amabuki Yamahai Junmai Omachi ($36.95) is a new arrival at Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet, in Melrose. The Amabuki Shuzo was founded in 1688, making it almost 340 years old, in the Saga Prefecture, which is located in the northern section of Kyushu Island. The brewery acquired its name from Mt. Amabuki, part of the Sefuri mountain range. The brewery's motto is "Onko Sousei," which means, “we learn from the past and create new and better things.” They also state, "We brew sake that makes you relax and enjoy your precious time."  

The brewery also uses a variety of flower yeasts to make their Sake more unique, including strawberry yeast, banana yeast, sunflower yeast, begonia yeast, and more. This particular Sake was brewed with Marigold Yeast, providing some subtle elements of marigold in the aroma and flavors, which the brewery states includes "the sophisticated fragrance and robust flavor of marigold" which is presented well in warmed sake. In Japan, marigolds symbolize jealousy, despair, grief and sadness, although it can also symbolize passion and creativity.  

The Sake was made from 100% Omachi rice, a pure rice strain which was discovered in 1859, and tends to make Sake which is more earthy and herbal, with high acidity. The rice has been polished down to 65%. As a Junmai, the Sake is made with only four ingredients: rice, water, yeast and koji-kin mold. As it is a Yamahai, it's made with an older method of production, using natural lactic acid in the air rather than adding commercial lactic acid. This tends to enhance the umami of the Sake, but is a riskier method of production. 

The Amabuki only has a 15% ABV, and is also gluten-free, with no preservatives or additives. This is a Sake that can be served chilled, but is said to be especially good if served gently warmed or hot, which enhances the effects of the marigold yeast. On the nose, this Sake presents mild floral notes, with an underlying earthiness. On the palate, it's light to medium-bodied, with a complex blend of flavors, including plenty of umami notes, a subtle floral aspect, an earthy backbone, and hints of nuts. Good acidity and a lingering finish. Delicious and intriguing.  

Suggested food pairings include grilled chicken and mushroom dishes, and I'm sure the umami element of the Sake would go great with mushrooms and truffles, as well as Italian dishes, especially made with tomatoes and parmesan cheese. Any food that possesses umami would probably also go well with this Sake. 

I recommend the Amabuki Yamahai Junmai Omachi, and it's a very good example of the impact of flower yeast on Sake, creating unique aromas and flavors, going beyond the usual commercial yeasts. Taste something different!

Rant: Don't Be A Cheapskate With Holiday Wines

The holiday season nears, and many people will stop by their local wine shop to purchase wines for parties, dinners, or gifts, for Halloween, Thanksgiving, Christmas, or other upcoming holidays. Let me provide you an important piece of advice for purchasing wines throughout this holiday season.

Don't be a cheapskate! 

In preparation for the holidays, people stock up on wine to serve their guests at the various parties, feasts, dinners and celebrations. Often, because they are buying bottles in bulk, purchasing multiple bottles, their primary concern is price, not quality. So, they too often buy the large, commercial "value" wines, the brand names which are known to everyone.

Please don't do it!

It takes almost no thought to buy such wines. Though such wines might be drinkable, they aren't going to impress anyone. You've chosen to take the cheapest route possible, in both price and time. These wines are generally industrial products, created to taste the same year to year, and you never know what additives might be in these wines. They are like the McDonald's of the wine world. Do you really want to serve such wines to your loved ones, your family and friends?

There's a better way.

If you're hosting a holiday party, don't you want to impress your guests? Or do you want to be known as the person who bought the cheapest wine available? Don't you want your guests to leave the party talking about the great time they had, telling others about the delicious wines they enjoyed? Or would you rather have them later complain that the wine was unappealing? It only takes a little extra work and price to elevate your wine selections.

I certainly understand the need to control your wine costs when you're providing for a number of guests. You don't have to buy $50 wines to impress your guests and you don't even have to spend $20 per bottle. I've purchased numerous $10-$15 wines, only a few dollars more than you might otherwise spend on those "value" wines, and brought them to parties where the other guests loved them, wanting to know where they could buy them.

There are good and interesting wines at this price point, if you know where to seek them out. If you want your holiday celebration to be even more popular, then you should serve those type of wines. The extra effort and money will elevate your party and bring more pleasure to your family, friends, and other guests. Isn't the holiday season the time to splurge a little more?

How do you find these inexpensive but interesting wines? At whatever wine shop you visit, it might be best to ask the wine store staff for recommendations of their best value wines. They should be able to direct you toward those inexpensive wines which will be more interesting and delicious than those cheap commercial wines. For example, at Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet in Melrose, where I work, I can recommend a number of much better value wines, from Vinho Verde to Montepulciano. I can help you impress your guests.

In addition, most wine stores offer a discount for bulk purchases, commonly 5-20%, and sometimes for as little as 3 bottles, which makes your wine cost even less expensive. And these are usually discounts that the wine store doesn't provide for the large-scale, commercial "value" wines. So, with those discounts, your prices for these better value wines can be even closer to that of the large-scale, commercial "value" wines.

If for some reason you can't ask a store employee for some recommendations, then my best advice for selecting a good wine that is $15 or under, is to buy a Portuguese wine. I think some of the greatest value wines are coming out of Portugal, especially at this price point. Chances are that if you purchase a Portuguese wine costing $15 or less, you'll find a delicious wine, much better than similarly priced wines from most other regions. And there are plenty of Portuguese wines available in that price range. There is probably no other wine region where you can find as many good wines at that price point.

You also should know that paying a few dollars more for your wine can make a big difference. When you start considering wines priced from $15-$20, your options increase drastically. You can find some interesting wines from all over the world in that price range, though they still offer value. And if you are buying in bulk where the wine store offers a discount for larger purchases, you can save enough money so that the wines end up priced closer to $15 or less per bottle.

So this holiday season, don't buy the same old cheap wines.

It won't take much effort to select some better choices, and still very inexpensively. In the end, you'll impress your guests, make your holiday party more memorable, and drink better wines.

(This is a revised version of a post originally from 2009. It's an important enough issue to raise it once again.)

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) For four decades, the National Mustard Museum has been sharing the history, humor, culture and downright magic of the "King of Condiments" with visitors from around the world. What began with Barry Levenson’s mustard collection has grown into a one-of-a-kind nonprofit museum dedicated to preserving an extraordinary collection and educating generations of mustard lovers.

As they celebrate this incredible milestone, they’re asking their friends, fans and fellow mustard enthusiasts to consider a $40 donation in honor of their 40th anniversary. Your donation helps keep the collection, education and magic of the King of Condiments alive for the next 40 years and beyond. Their goal is $10,000, and they are getting close to nearly half that goal, so they need more donors to help them out. 

The National Mustard Museum is a nonprofit organization funded by donations from generous supporters like you. The museum does not receive profits from the gift shop. That means every donation makes a direct difference in helping us preserve this unique piece of culinary history and continue our mission for years to come. Forty years. Thousands of mustards. Countless visitors. One very special museum.

Whether you’ve visited them in person, fallen down the mustard rabbit hole online, attended National Mustard Day, or simply love what they do, they hope you’ll help them mark this momentous anniversary!

As a token of our appreciation, for the $40 donation you receive:
MFA Diploma (Master of Fine Accoutrements)
Commemorative sticker and a magnet
Name on their digital wall & museum wall

For the $400 donation you receive:
Gift Box of the Curator's favorites
Name on both walls

To Donate, please go HERE. 

2) Are you a mustard lover? Are you intrigued about the history of mustard and its myriad of styles and flavors? Would you like to learn much more about mustard?

Ken Zuckerman, the "Mustard Maestro," will be teaching a one-night course, "Wurst Sausages & Best Mustards," through Arlington Community Education on Wednesday, October 21, from 6:30pm-8pm. Ken is the Head of Marketing for a local artisanal food distributor and a passionate devotee of all things vinegary & fermented. He's also on the board of the National Mustard Museum in Wisconsin, which sports a collection of over 6800 mustards, and which for the past 30+ years has conducted the Worldwide Mustard Competition featuring 500 entries facing off in 19 different categories.

The description of the class: "When attending a major sporting event or Oktoberfest, the aroma of sausages and hot dogs fills the air, accompanied by their essential partner: mustard. This tasting explores what makes a great condiment pairing, featuring award winners from the National Mustard Museum’s annual Worldwide Mustard Competition. Sample 12 domestic and imported mustards, from classic yellow to spicy brown and deli-style to bratwurst blends, paired with iconic New England hot dogs, sausages, and brats."

The cost of the class is $49 per person. To register for the class, go HERE.

3) Beginning this Saturday, September 26, AVRA Estiatorio will introduce weekend brunch Saturdays and Sundays from 11:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. at its Back Bay location within the Lyrik Back Bay complex at 400 Newbury Street.

AVRA’s new brunch combines classic brunch favorites with the restaurant’s signature Mediterranean cuisine. Guests can choose from an à la carte selection of brunch favorites, including French toast with berries and cream cheese frosting ($21); eggs any style with home fries and bacon ($21); the AVRA omelette with Boursin cheese and baby spinach ($22); a Nova smoked salmon platter ($24); and a warm, butter-poached lobster roll served on brioche (MKT). A Bloody Mary bar cart will also circulate table-to-table.

For those looking to experience the flavors of AVRA, a three-course prix fixe menu ($41.95 per person) offers a selection of Mediterranean and Greek favorites. Starters include Greek salad, traditional Greek spreads, grilled calamari, and tuna or salmon tartare. Main courses include chicken paillard, charcoal grilled Mediterranean sea bass, and grilled salmon, followed by desserts including baklava, orange cake or fresh fruit. AVRA’s extensive all-day menu will also be available à la carte.

Suwa Mantensei Kinoko Junmai Ginjo: Mushroom Sake!

"Kinoko" is the Japanese term for "mushroom" and the above pictured Sake was specifically produced to pair very well with mushroom dishes. No mushrooms were used in the brewing of the Sake, but its prominent umami creates a synergistic effect with the natural umami of mushrooms, intensifying the overall taste. 

 
The Suwa Mantensei Kinoko Junmai Ginjo ($39.95), a limited edition, is a new arrival at Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet, in Melrose, and it intrigued me from the start. I bought a bottle, knowing I would soon be enjoying a Japanese stir-fry with steak and mushrooms, and wanting to experience this umami pairing. And it was amazing, a stellar pairing that elevated both the food and Sake. 

The Suwa Shuzo, founded in 1859, was named after the local Shinto Suwa-jinja Shrine, which is dedicated to Suwa-no-Kami, a kami of valor and duty. The brewery is located in Chizu Town, in the Tottori Prefecture, which is a small town of only about 7,000 people and most of Chizu Town is covered by mountain forests. 

The President of the brewery is Masahiko Touda, who has a passion for foraging and studying mushrooms, a "self-proclaimed fungi investigator," so the Kinoko Sake was a personal project for him. There is some conflicting information, noting that Touda is the brewery's Toji, master brewer, but other sources note that the Toji is Hakuma Kyoji. It seems clear that Touda was a Toji, for some period of time, and during that period created the Kinoko. He might have chosen to retire as Toji recently, and now Kyoji is the Toji. 

The Sake was made from 100% local Tamasakae rice, a rare variety, first developed in 1954, which is mostly grown in the Shiga  and Tottori Prefectures. This rice is known for producing rich, full-bodied, and savory Sake, with a prominent umami. As a Junmai Ginjo, the rice for the Kinoko needs to be polished down to at least 60%, but the brewery polishes it down to 50%, which is what Daiginjo is polished down to. However, the brewery chose not to make the Kinoko a Daiginjo. In addition, during production, they use a higher ratio of koji rice, intended to bring out notes of smoke, honey, and soy. 

The Kinoko only has a 15% ABV, and is also vegan and gluten-free. This is also a Sake that can be served chilled, at room temperature or gently warmed, each temperature providing a different experience, emphasizing different elements of the Sake. The Kinoko possesses an intriguing nose of earthy elements, akin to mushrooms, as well as subtle hints of chocolate and caramel, although without any sweetness. On the palate, it's medium-bodied, rich and savory, with a dominant sense of umami, and a complex melange of subtle flavors, from cocoa to citrus. Excellent acidity and a lengthy, smooth and satisfying finish. 

The stir fry, with its beech and shiitake mushrooms, and shaved steak, was an excellent pairing with the Kinoko Sake. The umami elements were enhanced, and it was such a satisfying taste. Touda-San definitely accomplished his objective, creating a Sake that kills it paired with mushrooms. This Sake would also be a great pairing with truffles, which also possess their own significant umami nature. I would also recommend this Sake for pairing with certain Italian cuisine, and not just those dishes with mushrooms. Ripe tomatoes and parmesan cheese are rich in umami, and this Sake would intensify those tastes too. A mushroom pizza and the Kinoko would be a fine combination. 

I highly recommend the Suwa Mantensei Kinoko Junmai Ginjo, and it's a very good example of how Sake pairs well with a wide variety of cuisines. 

Celebrate International Plavac Mali Day!

Today is International Plavac Mali Day!

Five years ago, in 2021, the Croatian Wine Alliance, a group of global teams promoting Croatian wines led by the US-based duo, Aroma Wine Co., and Croatian Premium Wine Imports, Inc., made September 21 to be International Plavac Mali Day. This collaboration is a public and private partnership among organizations from the US, Canada, Australia, Europe and Croatia – all dedicated to telling the many stories of this indigenous and predominant Croatian red variety. 

Plavac Mali is a descendant of Zinfandel (aka Tribidrag or Crljenak kaštelanski) creating a natural hybrid with another indigenous variety, Dobričić. Plavac Mali produces several styles of wines, from medium-bodied and easy-drinking, to elegant and robust wines. The aromas in Plavac mali are predominantly dark berries and Mediterranean herbs with expressive tannins, and mineral on the palate. Plavac Mali means ‘little blue’, referring to its appearance, small and dark blue berries.

I've twice visited Croatia, and written over 85 articles about my experiences in that beautiful and wondrous country, as well as Croatian wine experiences I've had locally. I learned much about Plavac Mali, having visited numerous vineyards and wineries, and tasted a variety of the wines. That diversity is compelling, as you can enjoy fresh and light Plavac Mali wines, as well as heavier, more robust wines that will age very well. So, you can enjoy Plavac Mali with a wide assortment of foods, just dependent on which style you prefer. If you enjoy red wine, you should experience the pleasures of Plavac Mali.

My article, Volarević Winery: Organic Rakija & The Complexity of Plavac Mali, provides more information about Plavac Mali, its origins, as well as the efforts to study and research this fascinating grape. In some respects, and despite the long history of Plavac Mali, there is still much to learn about this grape, and that that times, research and experimentation. As I said in that article, "This is a grape which can present greatness, which can compare well to other famed red grapes around the world." 

If you're interested in trying some Plavac Mali, Croatian Premium Wine Imports is offering a special Plavac Mali bundle, which includes 3 different Plavac Mali wines with a 15% discount. If you just want a single bottle of Plavac Mali, they offer over 20 different wines, and my personal favorites are from the Volarević winery.

How will you celebrate International Plavac Mali Wine Day?