Rant: Sparking A Flame in Wine Consumers

"I'd rather that wine writers tried to deepen people's love of wine,..."
--Reading Between The Wines by Terry Theise

Wine writers can easily provide sterile reviews of wines, with a few descriptors, possibly using flavors that are unfamiliar to many consumers. For example, how many general consumers know what gooseberries taste like? These reviews might also provide their own point score, letter grade or similar ranking. Such a ranking doesn't provide much information about what a consumer will experience with such a wine. If a reader trusts your judgment, after having assessed your reviews over a length of time, then they might select a wine based on your recommendation. 

There may be a better way. 

Employees at a wine store can also offer more sterile advice. They may tell customers how many points a wine scored, or they can recite a cold list of basic wine descriptors. That will certainly lead to some wine sales, but there are probably wines that can't be sold in this manner. 

There may be a better way. 

Something is missing in both of these situations: Passion!

Sterile advice might help to sell a wine, but you don't imbue a passion for wine into those consumers. You're treating wine as a mere commodity, like any other, and making consumers treat it as one as well. You'e not sparking a fire of excitement within consumers, not getting them to fall deeper in love with wine. And that's what's needed, getting more consumers not only to drink specific wines, but to get passionate about it, to embrace its diversity, beauty, and mystery. 

Not all consumers will be amenable to embracing that passion. Trying to assess who is amenable can be an effort, but it pays off in the end. Each consumer you inspire with that passion will likely spread that passion to others. With all the recent talk of decreases in wine consumption, then spreading a passion for wine is even more important. 

Why do you write about wine? Why do you work in a wine store? Is it merely a job? Or do you do it because you have a passion for wine? If you possess that passion, then why don't you try to share your passion with others, rather than just write sterile reviews of try to sell wine without the use of passion?  

I've worked in a wine shop for over fourteen years, and been writing about wine for over 20 years. When I offer a wine recommendation with passion, rather than points, I often see a clear difference in the eyes of the consumer. Their eyes take on the spark of passion that is found within my own. They are no longer buying just a commodity, but they have found an experience, an emotional connection which will last far longer than that bottle of wine. They get excited to buy wine, desirous of tasting different ones.

Think back to your own wine mentors and friends. I bet those who most inspired you were those who shared their passion for wine with you. If all they did was provide you wine scores, I very much doubt they would have become significant inspirations for you. So infuse life into your writing and your words, and let your passion spark a wildfire in others. 

2018 Domaine Pichot Clos St. Mathurin Sparkling Vouvray: Loire Bubbly & Mussels

This past Friday night, I enjoyed a dinner of mussels at home, having purchased them earlier that day at the Ipswich Shellfish Fish Market in Ipswich. They were organic PEI Mussels, which were rope grown, for only $7.49 for a bag. I love mussels, steamed in a flavorful broth, and accompanied by a crusty bread for sopping up the broth. 

Wild mussels have been consumed for thousands of years and farmed mussels extend back at least to the 12th century, when they were cultivated in the waters off the coast of France. The Pilgrims probably feasted on mussels during the first Thanksgiving. Farmed mussels are one of the most sustainable forms of aquaculture. They are easy and quick to grow, better than probably any other bivalve. They are also filter feeders, which eat algae, plankton and other microscopic sea creatures, and help to purify the water. They make the oceans cleaner which is a great benefit. 

Mussels are also a healthy choice, one of the best seafoods you can consume. They are a good source of protein, with the added benefit of being low in calories and saturated fats. In some respects, that makes it a better choice than beef. In addition, mussels are a good source of selenium, vitamin B12, zinc and folate. Most importantly, mussels also possess a significant amount of Omega-3 fatty acids, which is important in reducing the risk of heart disease. A 3 ounce portion of mussels contains about 700 milligrams of Omega-3s, placing it high on the list of seafood with significant amounts of Omega-3 fatty acids. Plus, mussels have a far less risk of mercury and PCBs. In many ways, mussels are an excellent nutritious choice and should be a regular visitor to your dinner plate.

To accompany the mussels, I selected a bottle of bubbly from the Loire region of France, the 2018 Domaine Pichot Clos St. Mathurin Sparkling Vouvray (about $27), which is supposed to be an excellent pairing for seafood, from oysters to crab. I received this bottle as a media sample. 

Although the Domaine Pichot winery was established in 1996, the history of the Pichot family extends back to at least 1739, when they were restaurateurs. They purchased their first vineyards around 1770, so they could supply their restaurant with wine. When Domaine Pichot was founded, the family brought together three family vineyards: Coteau de la Biche, Le Peu de la Moriette, and Le Marigny. The vines are generally about 30 years old, and are planted with only Chenin Blanc. Their vineyards are organic and certified sustainable. 

The Clos St. Mathurin Sparkling Vouvray is produced from grapes, about 35 years old, from a small, 1.5 hectare vineyard within the Le Marigny site. The soil in this vineyard is limestone and flint. The sparkling wine is made in the méthode traditionnelle (like Champagne), with fermentation in 70% in stainless steel and 30% in 400 liter used barrels, followed by two years on fine lees in the bottle. No dosage is used. Only 6,000 bottles are produced each year.

On the nose, the wine was expressive, with notes of white flowers and stone fruit, and in the glass, there were plenty of tiny bubbles. On the palate, it was elegant and crisp, fresh and flavorful, dry and pleasing. It possessed a complex melange of flavors, including peach and green apple, a subtle nuttiness, a touch of toast, and hints of baking spice. The finish was persistent and satisfying, and each sip beckoned you to take another. It paired very well with the mussels, and I could easily see it pairing well with other seafood too. This bubbly over-delivers for its price point, and I heartily recommend it. 

A Tavola: A Birthday Celebration

This past weekend I celebrated my birthday, and enjoyed some special meals and wines, both at home and at a restaurant. It's a tradition that I can select any restaurant I want to celebrate and this year I chose A Tavola, in Winchester, which is one of my Top Five Favorite Restaurants. Chef Joe Carli prepares excellent Italian cuisine, especially his pasta dishes, with many local ingredients. His wine list is all Italian, and presents a diverse range of choices, at all price points. 

My birthday dinner was as delicious as usual, and a strong standout was the local Striped Bass, probably one of the best seafood dishes I've enjoyed this year. A Tavola continues to receive my highest recommendation. If you want to dine outside, they have a nice patio, or if you dine inside, you could make a reservation for the Chef's Counter, and watch Chef Joe work his culinary magic in the kitchen. 

While perusing the wine list, I sought a light-style red wine and the 2023 Fuedo di Santa Tresa Rina Russa Frappato ($50) caught my eye. I love Sicilian Frappato wines and I knew it would be the light-style I desired. It's an organic wine, with bright red fruit flavors, enhanced by subtle spice notes, with good acidity. Food friendly and tasty. 

There were two appetizer specials and we opted for both of them. The Grilled Peaches ($18) were presented with Speck and Whipped Ricotta, and topped by a drizzle of hot honey. A delightful blend of flavors and textures, from the lightly charred peaches to the salty speck, from the creamy ricotta to the slightly spicy and sweet honey. A fine summer dish. 

The Striper Crudo ($18), served with crisp wonton chips, was another fine summer dish. The hearty amount of chunks of local striped bass were firm and fresh, with plenty of acidity, and were seasoned just right. The wonton chips were an excellent vehicle for the crudo.  

The standout of the dinner was the local Striped Bass ($39), and as I mentioned earlier, it's probably one of the best seafood dishes I've enjoyed this year. It was served with local, fresh corn, tomatoes, and potatoes. The fish was cooked perfectly, with a nice exterior sear, adding a fine crunch, and the interior was silky and moist, flavorful and a pure delight. The corn, tomatoes and potatoes added to the dish, including some sweetness and acidity, and the dish was a true taste of the summer. Highly recommended!

The Bucatini ($34), with foraged mushrooms, roasted garlic, white miso, and creamy burrata​, is one of my favorite dishes on their regular menu. The pasta is made in-house, and has an excellent firm texture. The mushrooms and miso add some earthiness and plenty of umami, while the garlic adds a nice flavor. The creamy burrata adds a creamy texture to the dish, helping to balance the earthiness. A week balanced and delicious dish.

After dinner, I opted for a Black Manhattan ($17), one of their barrel aged cocktails, which is made with Bourbon and Cynar (an Italian Amaro). The bitterness of the Cynar helps to balance the sweetness of the Bourbon. A Tavola also offers other barrel aged cocktails, including Negroni, Tequila Manhattan, and Boulevardier. 

And for dessert, I chose the Strawberry Shortcake ($14), with white cake and whipped cream. A tasty way to end the meal, with sweet strawberries, a light cake and creamy whipped cream. 

I left the restaurant, fully sated, and pleased that Chef Joe's cuisine remains consistently excellent. 

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) Best of the Wurst is East Cambridge's premier sausage-tasting event, held on Saturday, July 25, from 12pm-2pm at the First Street Market. featuring handmade sausages from your favorite local chefs and restaurants! Your entry into the festivities gets you a taste of all 12 sausages. BOTW is run in partnership with the National Mustard Museum, who will pair each sausage with a notable mustard chosen just for them. The bar will be open for service, with beer and cocktails available for purchase. There will be Pearl hot dogs as well for the kids, so feel free to bring the whole family.

Some of the sausages that will be there include:

Revival Kitchen - Kimchi Sausage
Little Sage - Chicken & Rabe with Vinegar Sweet Peppers
Il Casale - Avellinese Sausage, Broccoli Rabe Marmellata, on Bao bun with Potato Sticks
Merai - Kapow Hot Dog
State Park - Texas Hot Links
Formaggio Kitchen - Boudin Noir
Puritan Oyster Bar - Bacon & Scallop Boudin Blanc
Amba - Harissa Lamb Sausage
Geppetto - Porchetta Style Provolone Brat

There will also be fruit mustards, herb mustards, pepper mustards, deli mustards, sweet mustards, Dijon & more presented by Mustard Maestro Ken Zuckerman! And beverage sampling from Widowmaker Brewery and Whistlepig Distillery, along with beer and cocktails featuring Bacardi & Patron to purchase. 

The Cost is Adults $30 ($33.85 w processing fee) and Kids $10 ($12.51 w fee).

Tickets and Info can be found HERE. 


2) Wednesday, July 15, marks National Hot Dog Day and the Silhouette Lounge will honor the occasion by serving up $1 hot dogs all day, from 4pm-1am, while supplies last. Limit of one $1 hot dog per person with the purchase of a beverage on July 15. 

The Sil also is here to remind everyone about their once-in-a-lifetime offer: free links for ink. Here’s how it works: Get permanently tatted up – keep the body part PG-13 – with any Sil-related insignia (inspired by its logo, signature art like the winged rat, its namesake, etc.) and your indelible love will be rewarded with a free hot dog per visit for life. And these aren’t just any hot dogs, these are “Sil Dogs” – all-beef franks nestled in their buns served with packets of ketchup, mustard, and relish.

3) Also for National Hot Dog Day, Fuddruckers, in Reading, is offering $1 Hot Dogs all day on July 15th, while supplies last. This is for Dine In only, and you are limited to 3 hot dogs per transaction. This deal includes unlimited produce and condiments from their topping bar, but Specialty toppings cost extra. 

Rant: Conduct Food & Drink Rituals

A person selects a bottle of wine, and uses a corkscrew to open it. They then gently pour the wine into a decanter, allowing it to sit for a time. Once they pour their glass of wine, they swirl the wine in the glass and then smell it, assessing the aromas. Then, they take a small sip of the wine, swishing it around their mouth, inhaling a bit of air. Finally, they pour themselves a glass of the wine, ready to drink it and judge the quality of the wine. 

Another person watches the above person open this wine, and when their own glass is poured, they immediately take a couple good gulps. If both people were asked to rate the wine, it's likely that the first person would rate the wine higher than the second person. Why? There can be a significant psychological reason for this difference, but not something most people consider. 

This situation is illustrative of a greater principle, showcasing the power of ritual.

"Rituals have a surprising degree of influence over how people experience what comes next."

In the journal Psychological Science, Kathleen Vohs, Yajin Wang, Francesca Gino, and Michael I. Norton published the results of a study based on four experiments analyzing the effect of rituals on food and drink consumption. Their experiments involved items including chocolate, lemonade and carrots, though they believed their results extended to all types of food and drink.

They concluded that: "Rituals enhance consumption enjoyment due to the greater involvement they prompt in the experience." In addition, personal involvement in the specific ritual generally garners more enhanced pleasure than merely observing the ritual. That provides a fascinating insight into our eating and drinking habits, one which I believe has validity.

In my example at the top of the article, the first person conducted a ritual for opening and pouring their wine. This was their usual procedure for most any bottle of wine. And that ritual likely affected how they experienced the wine, tending to make them rate it higher than others. The second person didn't engage in any rituals, sipping gulping the wine in their glass. They weren't as involved in the process, and thus didn't engage in any rituals that might have enhanced their experience. 

Taste does not contain only a sensory aspect. Part of our appreciation of the taste of food and drink is psychological. It's why eating and drinking with friends is usually better than doing it alone. It's why wine you drink on vacation can sometimes taste so much better than the same wine you later have at home. It seems logical then that rituals, which can build a deeper emotional connection, will make food and drink taste better. Such rituals involve you more closely to the entire experience, investing yourself deeper into everything. And rituals are often easy to do, requiring only a little time and effort.

What food and drink rituals do you perform? What is your favorite ritual?