Monday, March 16, 2026

Rant: Permission & Food/Drink Risks

Give yourself permission to take a food or drink risk.

You don't need to follow the conventional options, and conform to the norms. You can, and should, think outside the box and be willing to try different and more unusual options, to break outside of your comfort zone. Try new foods and drinks, expanding the horizons of your palate. 

Complacency is easy. It takes no effort to order the same dish every time you go out to a restaurant. It takes no effort to buy the same wine every time you visit a wine shop. It also takes no effort to eat and drink the same things as everyone else. They are the safe choices, those which won't rock the boat. There's no risk that you won't like what you eat or drink. You know exactly what you're getting, and frankly, that can be boring.

There is nothing wrong with taking risks. You simply need to take that first step, to let yourself take a chance on something new and different. Sure, it may seem a bit scary at first, but that is merely a psychological barrier which you can easily overcome. The reward for taking that risk can be enormous, the discovery of a new food or drink which excites and satisfies you. You could uncover a new favorite, something to tantalize and please your palate. However, that cannot happen unless you are willing to take a risk.

Consider the recent Boston Wine Expo. If you attended their grand wine tasting, which wines did you taste? Did you stick to the wines you already knew well? Or did you seek out wines that were unfamiliar to you, wines from different regions, wines using less common grapes? Did you take any risks in your wine tasting, or did you choose to play it safe?

When you dine out, do you only eat at Boston restaurants? Do you shy away from traveling to suburban restaurants? Or do you take a risk and visit those suburban spots, to discover the wonders of their culinary skills? When you dine out a a restaurant, do you always order the chicken dish? If you dine at an Italian restaurant, do you only order the Chicken Parmigiana? Or do you prefer to order the special, no matter whether it's seafood, beef, chicken, lamb or something else? Do you play it safe with the menu or take risks?

A few days ago, I visited the Ipswich Shellfish Fish Market, in Ipswich, which is only open on Friday and Saturday. It's my favorite local seafood market for fresh and frozen products, offering quality seafood at reasonable prices. This past weekend, one of their offerings was Cod Cheeks, a rare delicacy that is difficult to find at most fish markets. As there are only two cheeks per cod, it's obvious why they are harder to find. They are delicious, resembling scallops in some respects, and can be cooked like a scallop. However, how many customers, who might never have tasted cod cheeks, would take a risk and order them?  

Break out of your routine. Break out of your complacency. Break out of your boring, same old choices. Instead, take risks and explore the myriad of choices that are available to you. Unless you take those risks, you'll never know what you are missing, the great wines and foods that you could be enjoying. We all need to take a close look at the choices we make concerning our food and drinks, and ascertain those areas where we play it safe, and where we could benefit from taking some risk.  

Personally, I love to take food and drink risks, to taste something new. There's no guarantee that I will enjoy the new food or drink, but I'd never know unless I take that risk. And sometimes I find a new favorite, which I would not have found otherwise. The reward of finding these favorites outweighs the minor risk of trying new foods and drinks. 

Give yourself permission to take a food or drink risk.

Thursday, March 12, 2026

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) Willie’s, the new American Italian–inspired neighborhood restaurant from BCB3 Hospitality, the hospitality group led by chef Jamie Bissonnette alongside restaurateurs Andy Cartin and Babak Bina, is now open at 20 Charles Street in Beacon Hill. The intimate 28-seat space sits right next door to sister restaurant ZURiTO. At the heart of the dining room, an American-made Wood Stone oven anchors the space.

The restaurant features a seasonal menu with pizza at the center—thin-crust, seasonal, and built with intent—alongside small plates and housemade pastas, with techniques and special ingredients drawn from the team’s portfolio of restaurants spanning Japanese, Korean, and Basque cuisines. Small plates include the Caesar, a dish Bissonnette loved watching his father make, includes napa cabbage, celery, classic Caesar dressing, anchovy migas and parmesan cheese; Willie’s Little Meatballs, ultra-tender beef & pork meatballs prepared using pâté techniques, served with salumi ragu and parmesan; Calabrian Karaage, crispy Japanese fried chicken with calabrian chili oil and zesty onion soup mayo; and The Grinder, a loaded ciabatta sub roll with mortadella, prosciutto, Iberico coppa, provolone, cherry pepper, oil and vinegar.

Pastas include housemade Orecchiette with tripe tomato gravy, garbanzo beans, mint and parmesan; Rigatoni Amatriciana, a play on a classic dish that Bissonnette makes often at home with Korean influence includes extruded pasta, pancetta, yak gochujang for extra depth of flavor and pecorino; and Spaghetti, similar to a carbonara with imported pasta, bottarga, yuzu kosho, anchovy stock, egg yolk and parmesan.

The pizza program, anchored by a Wood Stone oven, offers each 10-inch pie, made with a no-knead dough fermented for two days, resulting in a thin, crisp crust with structure and balance, slightly thinner than a traditional New Haven–style dough. Highlights include the Margherita 5J, with fresh tomato, mozzarella, basil and nutty Jamón Ibérico de Bellota; Gilda “The OG”, inspired by the iconic Basque pintxo, similar to a pan con tomato with fresh tomatoes, Cantabrian anchovy, manzanilla olives, guindilla pepper, and honey and a touch of parmesan; Funghi, a white pie with mushrooms, fontina, mozzarella, parmesan and a runny egg; and ‘Nduja with tomato, creamy pork sausage, ricotta, celery root, mozzarella.

Led by Spirits Director Oscar Simoza, the cocktail list is built around vermouth, wine-based elements, and low-ABV compositions designed to be balanced, approachable, and easy to enjoy. Highlights include the Real Housewives of Beacon Hill with fino sherry, midori, St-Germain and bubbles; Cherry Cola with Zucca (an Italian rhubarb-based amaro), red wine, cherry herring and an amaro-infused cherry; Loretta with Cocchi Americano, Lo-F Ti Sweet Vermouth, bitters, orange and cacao foam; and Wall Banger with vodka, Italicus, Galliano, passionfruit and orange.

Wine Director Nader Asgari-Tari has curated an intentionally intimate list centered on vigneron·ne (grower) winemakers working with lesser-known, indigenous varietals that naturally complement pizza and pasta. Alongside Northern Italian whites—like Friulano from Venica Venica and high-altitude Petit Arvine from Valle d’Aosta—the list highlights a new wave of domestic producers from regions including the Finger Lakes, Santa Barbara County, and the Willamette Valley, as well as wines from less mainstream producing countries such as Japan and Mexico.

A particular focus is placed on crystal-clear, ethereal Loire Valley whites, including Sauvignon Blanc from Coteaux du Giennois, Chenin Blanc from Saumur, and the ultra-rare Gros Plant du Nantais from the western edge of the Loire—wines defined by purity, lightness, and visceral freshness. Sparkling selections range from Pinot Meunier specialist Christophe Mignon and Peter Lauer’s Riesling Sekt to half bottles from small Champagne houses. For lighter, easy-drinking reds, the list features bottles like Burlotto’s Freisa and elegant Eola-Amity Hills Pinot Noirs from Vincent Fritzsche.

2) Avra Estiatorio, an upscale Greek restaurant brand born in New York City, will open in Boston’s Back Bay in mid April. The opening marks the brand’s eighth location and its first in Boston. Owners Nick Tsoulos and Nick Pashalis are bringing a taste of the Aegean, highlighted by Avra’s signature fish market display featuring Mediterranean seafood flown in daily. The menu will showcase simply prepared whole fish, seasonal vegetables, Greek hand-pressed extra-virgin olive oil, and a curated wine and cocktail program. The design draws inspiration from the whitewashed Greek islands, pairing coastal interiors with cuisine rooted in authentic hospitality.

Avra’s menu is inspired by the coastal Greek town of Nafpaktos, the hometown of owner Nick Tsoulos, where he spent his childhood fishing alongside his family for seafood such as fagri, dorado, octopus and red mullet. That connection to the sea remains central to the dining experience. Pristine seafood is displayed on ice, allowing guests to select their fish to be grilled, baked in sea salt, or prepared with Mediterranean accents. The approach is ingredient-driven and focused on simplicity, fresh herbs and premium olive oil.

Beyond seafood, the menu includes lamb, chicken and steak, seasonal vegetables and house-made Greek specialties. Signature dishes include Avra Chips — thinly sliced zucchini and eggplant lightly fried to a crisp — and Chilean Seabass Souvlaki served over roasted red pepper sauce. The restaurant’s extra-virgin olive oil is hand-pressed at a family farm in Greece’s Peloponnese.

Located at 400 Newbury Street, Avra will open seven days a week for dinner, with lunch and brunch to follow.

3) Forcella, an Italian restaurant in the North End, has announced the appointment of Ciro De Cicco as its new Executive Chef. Born in Santa Lucia, Napoli, Italy, Chef De Cicco brings more than three decades of culinary experience to Forcella, rooted deeply in the classic traditions of Neapolitan cuisine. Inspired at a young age by his grandmother, who worked in the family restaurant alongside his grandfather in the years following World War II, Chef De Cicco developed a lifelong passion for cooking that honors simplicity, heritage, and flavor.

Chef De Cicco began his professional career at age 20 at Ristorante San Carlo in Naples, where he spent almost a decade honing his craft and eventually rising to the role of sous chef. The restaurant, sharing its name with the famed Teatro di San Carlo, was a destination for prominent cultural figures and theatergoers.

After establishing his foundation in Italy, Chef De Cicco relocated to the United States, where he has spent the last 26 years expanding his culinary expertise. Beginning in Boston’s North End, he gained valuable insight into Italian-American cuisine before continuing his career as a sous chef with Longwood Events and later with Celebration Gourmet in Northern Massachusetts, where he spent five years in catering and event dining, further broadening his experience. Chef De Cicco has been a part of the Forcella family for the past four years, and his appointment as Executive Chef marks a natural evolution for him and the restaurant.

Forcella brings old-world Italian food to the North End of Boston. Owner Nino Trotta is a longtime North End resident who was born in Naples, Italy. He works alongside his girlfriend, Shannon MacGowan, who serves as the restaurant's General Manager and Owner Operator. The Executive Chef Ciro De Cicco has designed a menu that includes dishes from all over Italy, with a slight lean toward Naples, the Trotta family's hometown. 

Monday, March 9, 2026

Rant: Promoting Wine at Tasting Events

"And what was that 10-minute lecture on Vouvrays?"
--Jack to Miles in Sideways

Over the weekend, I attended the Boston Wine Expo, a large-scale tasting event, with hundreds of wines available. There were so many available options, and the wines were also competing with numerous spirit and cocktail options. And no consumer could hope to taste more than a small percentage of the available wines. How does a distributor, winery, representative, etc. persuade customers to try their wines? 

At such a large tasting event, most consumers aren't looking for a ten minute lecture on Vouvray or any other wine. They primarily want to taste the wines, quickly moving onto another table of wines, although they aren't opposed to learning a little about those wines. So, you have to hook them on your wines quickly, to give them a brief highlight reel, to provide them the most compelling reasons to taste your wines. 

You might only have 30 seconds, or even less, to promote your wine. What would you say in those 30 seconds? What are the top three most important elements of your wine? 

This is similar situation to small wine tasting events held at a wine store, where your customers aren't there for a lengthy education either. They want to rely on your expertise and appreciate receiving just the top highlights of whatever wines you're offering. The wine shop is often just one stop on their list of errands. The taste of the wine will be the most important element of selling the wine, but you still need to first convince the consumers to taste it. 

I conduct wine tastings twice a week at Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits and Gourmet, in Melrose, and customers don't stop at the tasting for a 10-minute lecture on any wine topic. As I mentioned above, I might only have about 30 seconds or less to talk about a wine, so what would you say in my situation? What are the most important details to provide those customers? 

There are times I may take more time to explain certain wine topics, but that's decided on a case by case basis, and whether the consumer asks specific questions. It's important to be willing and able to speak more about the wines, but that need is less common. 

Few customers want to hear ten minutes about Vouvray. Be quick, precise and persuasive. 

Thursday, March 5, 2026

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) Anna’s Taqueria is rolling out their new Mascot Rolling Series where New England’s cherished furry friends will get behind the line to benefit their team’s nonprofit organization. Up first, on March 4, Anna’s Taqueria in Newton Highlands will put Blades the Bruin’s off-ice skills to the test for a celebrity rolling event to benefit the Boston Bruins Foundation.

From 5-7pm, the official mascot for the Boston Bruins will be behind the counter wrapping and folding his way to Hart Memorial Trophy status for a cause close to the community. Open to the public, Blades will roll burritos for guests and Anna’s will donate proceeds from each entrée purchased to the Bruins’ nonprofit organization. The Boston Bruins Foundation – whose mission is to advocate and support children, families, first responders and military members through health and wellness, education, and athletics – strongly believes in collaborating with organizations that share its mission, providing resources and programming that will lead to the betterment of our community. 

On April 8, the Worcester Red Sox (WooSox) will send a team of its mascots and volunteer “Dreammakers” to Anna’s Taqueria in Natick for its next charity rolling event of the series.

2) This St. Patrick’s Day, Tuesday, March 17, Anna’s Taqueria will be offering once again their Corned Beef Burrito, which first debuted in 2012. This Burrito packs chopped corned beef brisket in a fresh 10” or 12” tortilla with melty cheese, a stack of cabbage, potatoes, carrots, a choice of mustard, and pinto beans. A nod to Anna’s Boston roots and the city’s deep St. Patrick’s Day tradition, the one-day-only corned beef feature can also be enjoyed in a bowl, quesadilla, or any Anna’s entrée.

COST: Regular (10”) burrito: $10.70; Super (12”) burrito: $11.70; Add-ons available at à la carte pricing.

3) On Thursday, March 26, at 6pm, at Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse in the Seaport, they will be holding a Peter Michael Winery Dinner, a four-course wine dinner featuring pairings from the Peter Michael Winery

The Menu includes:
Primo: Tuna Carpaccio, Toasted Pistachios, Sourdough Crumbs, Crispy Truffle Vinaigrette Paired with 2022 L’Après-Midi Sauvignon Blanc 
Farinaceo: Confit Duck Tortellini, Aged Parmigiano, Balsamic-Port Paired with 2021 Clos du Ciel Pinot Noir 
Carne Del Giorno: Sous Vide Margaret River Wagyu Ribeye, Horseradish Potatoes, Charred Broccolini, Red Wine Au Jus Paired with 2020 L’Esprit des Pavots Cabernet Blend 
Dolce: Chocolate Soufflé, Vanilla Anglaise Paired with 2022 Belle Côte Chardonnay 

Cost: $325 per person. Limited seating available and click here for tickets: https://davios.com/seaport/events/peter-michael-winery-dinner

4) MEZŌ Mediterranean, a modern Mediterranean restaurant rooted in Greek culinary traditions, opened yesterday in Dedham Square. Located at 551 High Street, the new 1,400-square-foot counter-service concept introduces a refined “fast-fine” dining experience that blends speed and accessibility with quality, authenticity, and true hospitality. The intimate, 24-seat restaurant centers around an open kitchen, allowing guests to experience the energy and craftsmanship behind each dish. 

Inspired by the Greek word Μεσόγειος (Mesógeios), meaning “Mediterranean,” MEZŌ places Greek cuisine at its core while thoughtfully incorporating influences from across the broader Mediterranean region. The name also nods to the shared tradition of meze — small, handcrafted dishes meant to bring people together — reflecting the restaurant’s emphasis on connection, culture, and communal dining.

Owned and operated by restaurateur George Panagopoulos, MEZŌ represents both a personal and professional evolution. Just steps from his family’s 50-year-old Dedham House of Pizza, the new concept reflects his Greek heritage, lifelong passion for authentic cooking, and commitment to serving the community that helped shape him. MEZŌ builds on the legacy established at Dedham House of Pizza, where generations of families have gathered for nearly five decades.

Our story began in a small pizza shop where we learned that how you serve people matters just as much as what you serve. MEZŌ carries that same heart forward — the same commitment to making people feel welcomed, valued and at home,” said George Panagopoulos, Co-owner & Operator of MEZŌ Mediterranean. “MEZŌ is deeply personal. It’s inspired by the grandmothers and family members who taught us that food is about more than nourishment — it’s about hospitality, generosity, and bringing people together. This restaurant is a tribute to those traditions and a way to share them with a new generation.

MEZŌ’s menu celebrates the spirit of spitiko, meaning “homemade,” featuring home-style Greek dishes, generational family recipes, and beloved street food favorites prepared with imported Greek extra virgin olive oil and traditional seasonings.

Signature offerings will include:
Slow-cooked specialties and flame-grilled favorites such as chicken gyro, pork souvlaki, biftekia (Greek meat patties), and paidakia (grilled lamb lollipops)
Traditional comfort dishes including moussaka (beef and eggplant lasagna), pastitsio (baked Greek lasagna), and gemista (stuffed peppers)
House-made soups like avgolemono (lemon chicken) and lentils (fakes)
Classic sides such as roasted lemon potatoes and fasolakia (string beans)
A wide selection of meze, fresh salads, and pitas

A convenient grab-and-go section will offer vibrant salads, house-made dips, yogurt parfaits, and traditional desserts including baklava and loukoumades. The beverage program will feature frappe, espresso and coffee from Stratos Coffee, imported Greek soft beverages, and a curated selection of Mediterranean beers, wines and spirits. In the coming months, MEZŌ will introduce weekend dining service featuring craft cocktails, weekly programming, and monthly bouzouki nights. 

Tuesday, March 3, 2026

Shabo Telti-Kuruk: A Taste of Ukraine

Have you ever tasted a wine from Ukraine? Ukraine has a lengthy history of winemaking, extending back nearly 3000 years. At one point, Ukraine was the largest wine producer in the U.S.S.R., but Soviet changes destroyed many of their vineyards, forcing them to produce high-volume, high-alcohol wines. And with the current war in Ukraine, wine production is difficult, although some wineries are still trying to produce quality wines. 

Only a small amount of wines from Ukraine are currently exported to the U.S., and one of the newest importers is Spyrt Worldwide, which was established by three military veterans a few years ago. One of their major imports are the wines of Shabo Winery, and Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet, in Melrose, now carries two Shabo wines. 

The Shabo Winery was founded in 2003 by Vaja Iukuridze and his family, and is located in the village of Shabo, which the region has a 2000 year old history. Back in 1822, Swiss colonists established vineyards and winemaking in this region. When Vaja got involved, the area only possessed a run-down factory, so he had to build a new facility and plant more vineyards. In over 20 years, Shabo has become one of the largest wineries in Ukraine, owning about 1200 hectares of vineyards, growing over 20 different grapes, and producing about 15 million bottles annually. 

One of the grapes they grow is a native variety, a white grape called Telti-Kuruk, who name roughly translates as "fox tail," possibly due to the look of its grape bunches. The first mentions of this group extend back at least to the 16th century. This grape grows primarily in the Shabo region, with some vines over 50 years old, and total plantings equal about 70 hectares. The Shabo winery grows over half that amount, about 43 hectares. The grape can be used to make white wines, sparkling wines, dessert wines and can even be eaten as a table grape. 

The 2023 Shabo Telti-Kuruk Reserve ($27.99), with a 11.5% ABV, presents a compelling case for this native Ukrainian grape. However, information on its production is elusive. It's a light wine, with an alluring aroma of stone fruit, floral notes and a touch of ginger. On the palate, it possesses a complex melange of flavors, from peach to lemon, herbal notes to a subtle nuttiness. There's also a hint of brininess, with a mild floral element. Elegant and balanced, with lively acidity and a lengthy, pleasing finish. Absolutely delicious!

This wine would pair well with seafood, light chicken dishes, cheese, and more. I've never tasted this grape before, but this wine impressed me, and I see much potential with this native grape. It receives my hearty recommendation, and you really should taste it. 

And please check out my recent Rant, Wine Activism & Ukraine, which gives you more reasons to experience Ukraine wine.