Embrace Life! It's So Fragile (Part 2)

Last Monday, I wrote an article titled, Embrace Life! It's So Fragile, and now I have a partial sequel, a personal story, dealing with similar themes. 

Sadly, this past Saturday night, after 16 years, Kushi (pictured above), who always offered unconditional love and comfort, passed away. He was chosen as a kitten from an animal shelter, and when I first saw him, I was drawn to him. I've never regretted my decision as he was such a gentle and affectionate cat.

As he got older, he especially loved snuggling onto a lap, and could remain there for hours on end. He definitely had his own personality, different from my other cat, Kami, but the two of them were very close, albeit with the rare fight which is common with "siblings," although they weren't joined by blood. Kami misses Kushi as well. 

I have so many excellent memories of my dear Kushi, and will deeply miss this beautiful cat. Like me, he loved to eat, and would eat just about anything. Water though was his drink of choice. 

If you own a pet, then you understand the close relationship you form with your pet. Don't let anyone denigrate that relationship. Your cat or dog becomes an important part of your family, and you hold deep love for your pet. And when they are gone, you feel real loss, a hole in your heart, true grief. Especially if you have that cat or dog for a lengthy amount of time, like 16 years. 

I love you Kushi. I will miss you. I will always remember you.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
********************************************************
1) Maple & Ash is bringing its "unapologetically decadent steakhouse experience" to Boston. On April 30, Maple & Ash will open within The Superette in the Seaport neighborhood bringing a restaurant-nightlife experience where every taste is indulgent and the dining experience carries effortlessly into the night.

Established in 2015 in Chicago by the Maple Hospitality Group and Chef Danny Grant, Maple & Ash "redefines luxury dining with an irreverent and celebratory atmosphere." With locations in Chicago, Scottsdale and Miami, Boston is Maple & Ash’s first foray into the Northeast which will be followed by a fifth location planned for New York City. Known for its "I Don't Give a F*@K" tasting menu – an audacious and shareable dining experience that reflects the brand’s confidence and personality – Maple & Ash combines refined culinary technique with an energetic dining atmosphere, an expansive wine and spirits program, and a sense of theatricality that defines the guest experience.

The brand’s “Tower Hour” features its seafood towers – with manila clams, scallops, black tiger prawns and Alaskan king crab, roasted in the hearth and finished with garlic butter and chili oil – paraded through its lounge in a modern interpretation of a “Happy Hour.” 

On the core menu is a collection of “raw & chill” sea treasures, caviar service, seafood, chops – including an exclusive list of “Butcher’s Reserve” cuts – and accompaniments that will be enhanced with items created specifically for its Seaport location. Highlights from the menu include starters like the Fork & Knife Caesar with crisp Romaine, Parmesan Reggiano, soft egg, and sesame seed croutons; Golden Beet & Burrata with jicama, watermelon radish, fennel seed, orange, pistachio and watercress; Wagyu Beef Carpaccio with king crab, truffle, Kaluga caviar and warm brown butter brioche; a Wagyu Skewer with black fig, lime and coriander; and a Caviar Roll with Maine lobster, a buttered bun and Kaluga caviar. 

For the land and sea, opt for the 22-ounce, 28-Day Dry-Aged Bone-In Ribeye; The Eisenhower, a 40-ounce, 45-day dry-aged porterhouse baked-in-the-coals from its “Butcher’s Reserve” lineup; Whole Roasted Acadian Redfish with Roman beans, flowering kale and Meyer lemon gremolata; and Black Seabass with green tea, heirloom carrot, coriander, citrus and herbs. Other dishes include the Ricotta Agnolotti, the brand’s signature “pillows of love,” with winter truffle, and the Yukon Gold Potatoes Au Gratin with bubbling Manchego, Gruyère and Parmesan Reggiano cheeses.

Beginning April 30, Maple & Ash will be open Tuesday through Saturday from 4-10pm, with “Tower Hour” available 4-5pm. 4p.m. to 5p.m.

2) Darling, a Chinese-inspired cocktail bar in Cambridge, is located in the iconic space formerly occupied by Mary Chung’s—the beloved Chinese restaurant that served Sichuan dishes for 40 years—Darling honors its storied roots while bringing a fresh, vibrant energy to the neighborhood. "Here, guests can enjoy an intimate bar experience with daily rotating, hyper-seasonal cocktails with Chinese-inspired ingredients and a reimagined dim sum menu inspired by many dishes co-owner Zimu Chen enjoyed while growing up."

A Nanjing, China native, Zimu Chen moved to Boston in 2010 and built his career at some of Boston’s top restaurants including Eastern Standard and Mariel. After crossing paths in the industry and working together at Coquette, Zimu partnered with co-owner and Beverage Director Brian Callahan (formerly of Tiger Mama, Orfano and Row 34) to bring a new bar concept to Cambridge, with Executive Chef Mark O’Leary (formerly of Shojo, O Ya, and JM Curley) leading the food menu.

Cocktail highlights include:
Common Trope - A refreshing cocktail with floral notes, featuring milk-washed vodka steeped with jasmine tea, acidified lychee, black rice sake, and cucumber
HK French Toast - A creamy, nutty, flip-style cocktail inspired by Hong Kong-style french toast, featuring PF 1840 Cognac and a compound condensed milk made with coconut milk, peanut butter, toasted brioche, egg yolk and shio koji
Hope I Packed a Parachute - A clarified milk punch inspired by matcha red bean mochi with shochu, ceremonial-grade matcha, red bean, house-made coconut amazake, and creme de cacao, topped with a slightly sweet taro foam
Guinness? - A striking black carbonated cocktail with toasted malt notes, made with Toki Japanese Whisky infused with black sesame, clarified mango, and toasted jasmine rice syrup, topped with hojicha foam, providing a visual and flavorful nod to a pint of Guinness

Food menu highlights include:
Suan La Chow Show - A dish paying homage to the former Mary Chung’s space, featuring Sichuan pork wontons in hot & sour sauce, house chile crisp, shallot and vinegar soy, made from roasted pork & chicken bone
Filet O Fish Bao - An inventive twist on the American classic featuring salt cod inside a fluffy housemade bao bun with American cheese, pickled mustard and tartar sauce, inspired by Zimu’s love of McDonald’s
Red Braised Pork Ribs - Sticky, aromatic glazed pork ribs braised in Dr. Pepper with crispy taro and sesame seeds
Bang Bang Gai - Crispy double-fried chicken thighs with gochujang, lime, and cilantro

Embrace Life! It's So Fragile

As this blog is primarily about food and drink, it might seem easy to dismiss it as relatively unimportant in the greater scheme of things. There are certainly plenty of more important topics that could be discussed, from terrorism to racism. However, if you look a little bit deeper into the world of food and drink, you'll realize that it actually can play an important role in our lives. It's not as shallow and ephemeral as it might seem from a cursory look.

I could easily point out some of the larger food and drink issues that affect our entire world, such as sustainability and the hunger crisis. No one can dispute the importance of these issues and they alone would justify the significance of any blog that covers those topics. We need more dialogue about such issues, a greater discussion on potential solutions and advice on how to improve these situations. However, that's not the primary point of this post.

I want to discuss the fragility of life.

We don't like to consider or discuss death, especially our own mortality. We don't like to consider life without our family and friends. We usually face it, and often reluctantly, only when it directly touches our lives. As much as we want to avoid it, death will come for all of us, and we never know when it will arrive. It might be tomorrow or it might be fifty years from now. We don't need to dwell on our eventual deaths, to overly worry about it, but we should acknowledge its inevitability and live our lives as if it might be around the corner.

For many people, food and drink is a quality of life issue. It brings us pleasure and can make our lives happier. As I have emphasized repeatedly, food and drink is always much better when it's shared with others. If food and drink enhances our experiences with our family and friends, if it makes our lives better, then it's certainly a vital aspect of our lives. Just think of the simple pleasures of a grilled hot dog or glass of Rosé at a backyard BBQ with your family and friends. It's moments such as that which we should cherish.

Not everyone may feel that way about food and drink, but the basic idea remains for everyone: 

Enjoy life! Enjoy life! Enjoy life!

Life is far too short and we don't want to die with any regrets. Don't wait until you're older to create a bucket list. Don't wait until you are facing death, maybe from illness or injury. Start now and try to enjoy every ounce of life. Dine at that restaurant you've been wanting to visit but just haven't done so yet. Buy that special bottle of wine or whiskey you've been eyeing. Travel and experience the food and drink of another state or country. Don't keep putting it off, as there might not be sufficient time tomorrow. It's all about experiences not the accumulation of possessions. 

And finally, make sure you tell your family and friends that you love them. They might already know that you do, but it's always good to reinforce that feeling. 

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
********************************************************
1) Prezza, a fine Italian restaurant in the North End, invites guests to don their finest hats and seersucker for a special Kentucky Derby Day celebration on Saturday, May 2nd at 5:00 PM. For one night only, Prezza will transform into a swanky Derby-inspired destination, blending Southern charm with North End sophistication. Guests will enjoy a lively, immersive evening complete with a five-course, Kentucky-inspired dinner, signature cocktails, live entertainment, and interactive experiences.

Festivities begin at 5 PM as guests are welcomed with their choice of a Jefferson Mint Julep or a glass of Perrier-Jouët Champagne. From there, attendees will settle in for a thoughtfully curated menu featuring elevated takes on Southern classics, from rolled oysters with caviar and bourbon-glazed meatballs to fried chicken, confit duck legs, and a classic pecan pie finale.

“The Derby is all about spectacle, style, and celebration, and we wanted to bring that same energy to the North End,” says Anthony Caturano, Owner of Prezza. “This event is designed to transport guests through great food, great music, and a truly memorable atmosphere.”

Throughout the evening, DJ Richard Mixin and saxophonist Tommy Weeks will set the vibe, while guests can step into the “Homestretch Speakeasy” for specialty cocktails and photo booth keepsakes. Attendees are encouraged to embrace the spirit of the Derby with prizes awarded for best dressed and best hat.

Event highlights include: 

Five-Course Kentucky-Inspired Dinner: A menu featuring passed appetizers, Southern-style starters, and entrée selections such as Fried Chicken with Yukon mashed potatoes, Confit Duck Legs with maple mustard glaze, Kentucky Burgoo, Grilled Ribeye, and Pan Seared Bass, followed by pecan pie with cinnamon ice cream.

Ticket information –
VIP Table Experience ($3,000 per table): Front-row VIP table for 10-12 guests, featuring a five-course dinner, Jefferson Mint Juleps, and a magnum bottle of Champagne
Dining Room Tables & Bar Seating ($260 per guest): Includes five-course dinner and welcome cocktail or Champagne
All ticket prices include dinner, tax, gratuity, and event experiences. Additional beverages are available à la carte. Tickets are available via Prezza’s Resy.

2) Anna’s Taqueria is bringing back in its fold: breakfast. Beginning April 15, Anna’s Taqueria in Beacon Hill and at Longwood will start serving up burritos, bowls, and brews from 7:00am through 10:30am. Offerings include a breakfast burrito with scrambled eggs, breakfast potatoes, black beans, cheese, fajita veggies, cilantro, queso fresco and house made guacamolio sauce; a breakfast taco with scrambled eggs, cheese, fresh pico de gallo, and homemade guacamolio sauce; and a breakfast bowl with scrambled eggs, breakfast potatoes, fajita veggies, queso fresco, cilantro, and guacamolio sauce. Each morning delight comes with the option to add a protein: carnitas, chicken, steak, or the all-new chorizo. Complete the breakfast bliss with a side of crispy seasoned potatoes, a Lavazza coffee, cold brew, or horchata cold brew.

BONUS, just in time for Tax Day: The first 100 guests through the door of the two locations on April 15 will score a gift that keeps giving, an exclusive Anna’s Taqueria travel mug* that unlocks a free coffee daily with any breakfast purchase exceeding $5 for the rest of 2026.
*Purchase required to receive complimentary travel mug, while supplies last.

2018 Voskevaz Karasi Collection Areni Noir: Complex, Silky & Delicious

Armenia is one of the contenders as the location of the potential origin of winemaking, with evidence dating back about 8000 years. Like the country of Georgia, another primary contender in this regard, they also have an ancient tradition, extending back thousands of years, of the use of terracotta amphorae, which they call karasi, to ferment and age their wines. 

Unfortunately, during much of the 20th century, the Soviet Union forced the country to produce mainly cheap Sherry-style wines. Once Armenia attained independence, in 1991, its winemaking industry began to change and modernize, to reclaim the glories of the past. Their wines are now starting to get international attention, and locally, they have started to appear on a few wine store shelves, including at Victoria Hill Wine, the shop where I work.

Armenia is a landlocked country, mostly mountainous, which is bordered by Georgia to the north, Azerbaijan to the east, Iran to the south, and Turkey to the west. Though there are about 17,000 hectares of vineyards, most of the grapes are used for their famed brandy production. Wine production is still exploring the potential of their indigenous grapes. 

********************

The Voskevaz Winery was founded in 1932, but in 1997 it was purchased by David Hovhannisyan, who, with assistance from his brothers, invested much into modernizing the winery.  The name of the winery translates as "golden bunch," referring to grape bunches. The winery is located in the Aragatsotn region of western Armenia. Voskevaz works with local growers to source grapes for some of their wines. Their wines include the Karasi Collection, referring to wines which are fermented in Karas, their traditional clay amphorae, and then matured in oak. In the hills of the Aragatsotn region, ancient karasi have been found through excavation, extending back thousands of years. 

  

With a dinner of Bison Ribeye steaks, I opened a bottle of the 2018 Voskevaz Karasi Collection Areni Noir (about $50). Areni Noir is an ancient, thick-skinned red grape variety, native to Armenia, and cultivated for over 6,000 years, especially in the Vayots Dzor region. It may have originated in the village of the same name, Areni, in that region. Within Armenia, it's used to make a variety of still red wines, rosé and even brandy. Considering the relative isolation of this grape, and its lengthy history, this is a grape that reflects Armenia, which provides a true sense of place. 

The vines of Areni Noir used for this wine are about 130 years old and located at an elevation of about 1600 meters. They are sustainably farmed and the soil is volcanic rock. The grapes are fermented in karasi, the clay amphorae, and then aged for about 15 months in 225 liter oak barrels of local origin. It's then bottled unfiltered, so might have a little sedimentation. Only 300 cases of this were are produced each year, so availability is limited. 

With an ABV of 12.5%, this wine has an appealing aroma of red fruits and touches of earthiness and spice. On the palate, it was silky and complex, elegant and delicious. A fine melange of red fruits, from strawberry to cherry, accented with subtle spices, earthy notes, and peppery touches. A lengthy and satisfying finish completed this well balanced wine. It paired excellently with the bison steaks, and reminded me in some respects of Pinot Noir, which is a common comparison for Areni Noir.

You should definitely explore the wines of Armenia, as well as wines made from the Areni Noir grape. And specifically, I'd highly recommend the 2018 Voskevaz Karasi Collection Areni Noir.