A New Wine Shop in Melrose: Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet

There's a new wine shop in Melrose.....

About 15 years ago, Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet, owned and operated by Rebecca & Gene Beraldi, was established in Melrose, and I worked there for 12 of those years. In mid-August, the Beraldis sold the store, which is now known as Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet. I have remained as an employee at the new store. 

The new owners, Vijay, Andy, Brian and Puja, are very sincere people and they intend the shop to be an artisan wine, beer and spirits shop. They are not seeking to turn it into a package store or convenience store. They have been expanding the available selections on a variety of levels. Obviously, with the new ownership, there have been changes at the wine shop, but they have largely been positive, and the owners have been very open to suggestions about such changes. 

For example, one of the minor changes is that Rosé wines are now stocked in the chiller, which I believe is an excellent idea. This has been met with positive feedback from many customers. Another change is that numerous different beers, especially IPAs, are now stocked in the chillers, although many old favorites are still stocked, and that new beer selection has also been met with raves from the beer customers. 

A variety of new wine selections have also been added, with many more coming in the next few months, including wines from Portugal, Georgia, Greece, Lebanon, Moldova, Croatia, and more. Customers will have many intriguing choices in what wines to purchase. I've had some input in the new wines and Sakes that have been brought in, such as the Ramos Pinto Ports, including their amazing 20 Year Old Tawny. Another example is that I also suggested wines from Lebanon, from the famed Chateau Musar (pictured above). Come see me at the store and I'll show you all of the new wines.

Chartreuse, the acclaimed liqueur made by Carthusian monks, is also now available at the shop. As devotees of this spirit know, there has been a shortage of Charteuse for several years, and it has been difficult to find in local shops. So, if you're interested in this French herbal liqueur, you now know where you can find a bottle. Although it might sell out soon, so take action if you want to purchase a bottle. 

We're conducting Wine Tastings every Saturday, from 1-4pm, sampling new wines, as well as every Thursday night, starting at 5pm. Soon, we will also be conducting Beer Tastings on Friday nights, and additional special tasting events might occur on other nights. Please come by at any of these times to expand your palate and taste some delicious and fascinating new wines!

We will be holding a special Sake Tasting event on Saturday, September 28, in honor of International Sake Day on October 1. We shall have several Sakes to sample, accompanied by some nibbles, and everyone who attends the event will receive a special handout with information about Sake, including a food recipe and a couple cocktail recipes. More information about this Sake event will be posted soon. 

If you live in Melrose, check out Victoria Hill and see what your new neighborhood wine, beer & spirits shop has to offer. If you live outside Melrose, please also check out Victoria Hill as you are likely to find a number of selections that aren't available at your neighborhood wine shop. Victoria Hill is intended to be a destination spot, where people from all of the surrounding communities will want to come because of its unique and diverse selection.

Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet

538 Main Street, Melrose

(781) 665-3332

Monday to Wednesday: 10am-8pm, Thursday to Saturday: 10am-9pm; Sunday: 10am-7pm.

A Tavola: An Expanded Restaurant & Delicious Dinner

If you live north of Boston, you don't need to travel to the North End for compelling Italian cuisine. Chef/Owner Joe Carli recently expanded the size of A Tavola, his excellent Italian restaurant in Winchester, and one of my Top Three Favorite Restaurants. On my last visit for dinner, I got to check out the new space, as well as enjoy another delicious meal. 

The entrance to the restaurant has been shifted to the new section, and you can see a couple of the new tables in that space. I'll also note that the outside patio seems to have expanded a bit as well, and was busy on the night of my visit.

On the right wall of the new space, there are more dining tables, expanding the seating capacity of the restaurant. 

There's also a new bar in this space, which has a special wine bar menu as well. A cool place to stop by for a cocktail or glass of wine while enjoying a few appetizers. 

The main dining room is slightly different, with the removal of the hostess station, and the addition of a wine refrigerator. 

The chef's counter seats are still there, where you can sit in front of the kitchen and watch all of the culinary action. The new space is a welcome addition, especially the small bar, and now A Tavola can accommodate even more diners. However, despite the expansion, it still possesses an intimate and welcoming vibe.

We began the dinner, opting for a Grinta Spritz ($17), a different take on an Aperol Spritz, which is made with Grinta Amaro, lemon, and Prosecco. Grinta is a bitter Italian liqueur, made from Genepy, Rhubarb, Juniper, Gentianella, Gentian, Yarrow, Peppermint, Quassium and Chamomile. It was a tasty cocktail, refreshing and possessing a complex and intriguing taste.

We also selected a bottle of 2019 Palladino Nebbiolo d'Alba ($67), a bold wine, with complex and delicious notes of black fruits, roses, and earthiness. Moderate tannins, good acidity, and a lengthy finish. A fine choice.

A Special for the night were the Crispy Duck Wings, with a touch of Chef David's barbecue sauce, and accompanied by fried okra. A Tavola occasionally has these Duck Wings as a special, and I've been a fan of them since 2020. If they're available, I always order them because they are so delicious. on my current visit, they possessed a tasty crispy skin atop moist, tender and flavorful meat. The judicious application of the barbecue sauce was a nice addition, adding a touch of spice and smokiness. Highly recommended!

A Tavola often offers seasonal flatbreads as appetizers. The Corn Flatbread ($17) was made with grilled corn, scallions, mozzarella, queso fresco, and parmesan. The crispy, thin crust made a fine vehicle for the sweet and slightly smoky corn, with the addition of the salty cheeses. Definitely a fine summer dish. 

The Smoky Mozzarella Sticks ($18), were large cubes that were crispy fried and hickory & applewood smoked, sitting atop a basil pesto. A nice crunchy coating with plenty of gooey, and smoky cheese inside, all enhanced by the flavorful pesto sauce. 

For entrees, one of our choices was the Swordfish ($33), made with Italian Romano Beans, Vidalia onions, and a N'duja Sugo. The swordfish, which came from the Rocky Neck Fish Company, was moist and tender, cooked perfectly. The beans, onions and n'duja combined to create an interesting and tasty, lightly sweet and bold & spicy background for the swordfish. An excellent entree choice. 

We also had the Porcini Campanelle ($29), although unfortunately I failed to take a photo of it. It was made with grilled Kimball Fruit Farm sweet corn, oregano, toasted sourdough breadcrumbs, and whipped burrata. It was an ample and scrumptious pasta dish, and I've long said that Chef Carli is a wizard with pasta. The campanelle, which were a nice al dente, had an earthy touch to them from the mushrooms. The breadcrumbs added a nice crunchiness to the dish, the corn added sweetness, and the burrata a creamy touch. A well-balanced dish, I made to sure to finish the entire plate, and loved every forkful. Highly recommended!

During dessert, I went for the Barrel Aged Negroni ($17), made with Citadelle Gin, Campari, dry Vermouth, and Cointreau. A Tavola has three other barrel-aged cocktails too, including the Tequila Manhattan, Boulevardier, and Little Italy. The Negroni was intense, with a nice blend of bitter and herbal notes. A fine sipping cocktail, for enjoying after dinner. 

For Dessert, I ordered the Chocolate Chip Cookies, a dozen, which I've previously reviewed and enjoyed. You won't be able to eat all of them after dinner, but you just take the leftover cookies home and enjoy them later. Always a good choice.

A Special dessert was the Lemon Tart, with about three different lemon elements, and bursting with bright lemony flavors, combined with creamy and crunchy aspects. For any lemon lover, this is a perfect treat. 

As always, I highly recommend you dine at A Tavola and enjoy their excellent Italian cuisine, wines, and cocktails. With their expansion, even more people can dine there, but it remains a more intimate locale. Chef Joe Carli and David Paige won't let you down! 

The Origins of the Frozen Drumstick & Nutty Buddy

I've long been a fan of the Nutty Buddy, an ice cream cone, commonly filled with vanilla ice cream, where the top is covered in chocolate and nuts. When the ice cream truck showed up in the neighborhood, I might choose a Nutty Buddy. When I was growing up, there was only one kind of Nutty Buddy, but today, there are multiple variations, and they are also sometimes known by different names. 

Recently, I read on Facebook a claim about the alleged invention of the Nutty Buddy. As I did some additional brief searching online, I quickly learned that most sources claim that the Nutty Buddy was invented by the Seymour Ice Cream Company, located in Dorchester, Massachusetts, and that it was named after Charles "Buddy" Seymour, who was the treasurer of the company in the mid-1960s. Many sources also claimed that the term "Drumstick" came after the Nutty Buddy, and referred to the same ice cream treat. Other sources though have alleged there are slight differences between the two items.

However, after I conducted more in-depth research, I learned the truth. First, the existence of the Drumstick predated the Nutty Buddy, by about twenty years. Second, although the Nutty Buddy existed at least as early as 1950, it didn't show up in Massachusetts until the 1960s. Third, the evidence makes it clear that the Nutty Buddy was not invented by the Seymour Ice Cream Company.  

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The Drumstick, usually referred to at the time as the "Frozen Drumstick," was created by I.C. Parker, an advertising or sales manager for the Pangburn Ice Cream & Candy Co. in Fort Worth, Texas. Pangburn was established around 1912, and was a pioneer ice cream factory in Texas, and five years later, they began manufacturing candy as well.

The Manufacturing Confectioner (July 1931) noted that I.C. Parker had received a trademark for "Drumstick," whose use had been claimed since March 11, 1931. The Official Gazette of the U.S. Patent Office (August 1931) also mentioned the "Frozen Drumstick," under #13,379, and that it was "For Ice Cream Product Consisting of an Ice Cream Cone Dipped in Candy Coating, Etc."

What was the Drumstick? The Abilene Daily Reporter (TX), April 13, 1931, mentioned that Pangburn had recently added a novelty feature to their offerings, the “Drumstick.” It was “a chocolate nut sundae in cone form—ice cream center with firm chocolate coat thickly covered with nut particles.” It then noted, “When slipped from its tidy Pangburn paper cover, the ‘drumstick’ looks mightily like a crispy browned chicken leg.” The article continued, “The novelty was introduced a few week ago in Fort Worth and is now on the wholesale ice cream delivery routes in Abilene.” 

The description is basically the same as the Nutty Buddy, so it's easy to understand the ancestry of the Nutty Buddy. 

The first advertisement, pictured above, for the Frozen Drumstick appeared in the Abilene Daily Reporter (TX), April 16, 1931. It noted that it was a "Chocolate Nut Sundae" and sold for 5 cents. Keep the picture in your mind as when ads for the Nutty Buddy arise, twenty years later, its picture is basically the same.    

Although the Frozen Drumstick began in Texas, only four months later, it started to appear in other states, starting with California. The News-Pilot (CA), August 7, 1931, published an ad for "Gibson’s Frozen Drumstick" which was “An Ice Cream Cone filled with Gibson’s Ice Cream and topped with nuts." It was also stated that it was “The latest and most delicious 5c seller on the market.”  The next day, another ad in the News-Pilot (CA), August 8, 1931, further described Gibson’s Frozen Drumstick as “An Ice Cream Cone filled with Gibson’s Ice Cream, Dipped in Chocolate, and topped with nuts.” 

The Contra Costa Times (CA), September 17, 1931, presented an ad for MacMarr Stores, which mentioned Frozen Drumsticks, described as “The newest ice cream confection—a hand rolled chocolate cone, heaping full of Dairyland Ice Cream, dipped in chocolate and crushed peanuts. Looks just like a chicken or turkey leg, and it costs only 5c.”

During the rest of the 1930s, there were ads mentioning the Frozen Drumstick in Alabama, Colorado, Idaho, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky, Maryland, Michigan, Missouri, Montana, Nebraska, New Mexico, North Carolina, Ohio, Oklahoma, Oregon, Pennsylvania, South Carolina, Washington, Wisconsin, and Wyoming. Interestingly, there weren't any references in any of the New England states. In fact, there wasn't a mention of the Frozen Drumstick in Massachusetts for at least 50 years.

The Santa Ana Daily Register (CA), February 9, 1939, published an ad for Sontag Drug Stores, noting that the Frozen Drumstick was “An ice cream nut sundae in a cone…ice cream, chocolate, nuts and cake! Something entirely new in a frozen confection.” This is the only ad to mention it contained cake, although other ads sometimes mentioned it was served in a "cake cone."

The Tri-Country Forum (MN), March 7, 1940, had an ad for Land O’Lakes Frozen Drumsticks, noting it was “A sugar cake cone cooked in chocolate—filled with Ice Cream—covered with chocolate and rolled in toasted nuts.”

The Ice Cream Field (May 1950), posted an ad for the Frozen Drumstick, with a picture of the drumstick. 

The Nutty Buddy finally appeared, nearly 20 years after the Frozen Drumstick! The Ice Cream Field, October 1950, published an ad for Flare-Tops, which sold Cake Cones and Cake Cups, and had 14 bakeries across the country, including the Eastern Baking Co., in Chelsea, MA, and the Maryland Baking Co. in Baltimore, MD. One of their products was the “Nutty-Buddy,” pictured above, looking exactly like a Frozen Drumstick. It appears this was just a different name for the Drumstick. 

The Statesman Journal (OR), April 6, 1951, had an ad for Piggly Wiggly, offering a “Nutty Buddy Ice Cream Cone” for 10 cents.

The Oregon Daily Journal (OR), May 18, 1951, published the above ad for Arctic Ice Cream, noting the Nutty Buddy, “A Chocolate Nut Sundae.” It comes “In an old Fashioned Honey Roll Sugar Cone” which is “Filled with Arctic Ice Cream Chocolate Coated Rolled in Nuts.” And the picture once again resembles those of the Frozen Drumstick.  

The Lewistown Daily New (Montana), August 2, 1951, had an ad for the Lewistown Market which stocked “Nutty Buddies.”

The Free-Lance Star (VA), October 17, 1951, had an almost exact ad to the previous Arctic Ice Cream ad in Oregon. 

The Town Talk (LA), April 25, 1952, published the above ad for a new store, Cree-Mee, which offered a "Nutty Buddy,” described as "A chocolate nut sundae in a crisp honey roll sugar cone." During the rest of the 1950s, other ads for the Nutty Buddy appeared in Alaska, Illinois, Louisiana, Maryland, Minnesota, Missouri, Montana, Nebraska, New York, North Carolina, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Texas, and Virginia. No ads for the Nutty Buddy appeared in Massachusetts during the 1950s.

On June 27, 1958, the Maryland Baking Company, of Baltimore, MD, filed with the U.S. Patent Office for the "Nutty Buddy, for Ice Cream Cones." They noted that the first use of the term was on or about October 6, 1949. This could not have occurred if the Seymour Ice Cream Company had actually invented the Nutty Buddy.

When did the Nutty Buddy first appear in Massachusetts? Not until 1962!

The North Adams Transcript, June 14, 1962, published an ad for Sealtest Ice Cream and their “Sealtest Nutty Buddy.” The ad noted, “All the goodness of a chocolate nut sundae in a crisp honey roll cone!”  

There was another ad in The Republican, October 28, 1965, for Cumberland Farms. It offered a 6-pack of Nutty Buddy, on sale for only 49 cents, 10 cents less than its regular price of 59 cents. There would be a number of additional Cumberland ads during the later 1960s mentioning the Nutty Buddy. 

There weren't any articles or advertisements during the 1960s which connected Seymour Ice Cream Company and the Nutty Buddy. Their alleged invention of this ice cream treat appears to be merely a myth.

The blog of the Dorchester Historical Society had some interesting information about this issue, including a statement by Paul Samuelian, whose family started Seymour Ice Cream. Paul claimed "Some where in the 1960’s the “Nutty Buddy” was born named after Buddy Seymour who was my Great Uncle Mike’s son." Clearly this claim is false as the Nutty Buddy has been around since at least 1950. And there is no other evidence that indicates Seymour invented it.  

However, the blog also had a line which might be more indicative of the truth. It stated, "The Seymours Ice Cream Company had the sole franchise in New England to manufacture the Nutty Buddy product from the Sweetheart Cup Company." This indicates Seymour didn't invent the Nutty Buddy but instead received a franchise from another company to produce them in New England. If Seymour had invented it, they would have been the ones offering franchises to other companies. This certainly makes much more sense when we consider the history of the Nutty Buddy. 

In addition, I previously mentioned that the Maryland Baking Company had filed with the U.S. Patent Office for the Nutty Buddy. The Maryland Baking Company was connected to the Sweetheart Cup Company, so they obviously could have sold franchises to ice cream companies to produce the Nutty Buddy. And that is most likely what happened with the Seymour Ice Cream Company. They did not invent the Nutty Buddy.

Do you enjoy the Nutty Buddy?

Bodegas 501 Gades Amontillado Viejisimo VORS Sherry: The Final Bottles

Bodegas 501 no longer exists! The winery owed a significant amount of back taxes, over 16 Million Euros, and the company was eventually seized and put up for auction. So, a Sherry like that pictured above, will no longer be produced. It's now a dwindling supply and if you want to obtain their Sherries, you should act now.

The origins of Bodegas 501 extend back to 1783, making it one of the oldest wineries in Spain, when Pascual Moreno Mora founded a winery in the town of El Puerto de Santa Maria. In 1875, King Alfonso XII granted the winery the title of Supplier of the Royal Household, which provided them fame, especially for their brandies. In 1941, the firm Carlos y Javier de Terry, S.L. was established. Around 1993, Pedro Torres and his partners purchased the winery, renaming it Bodegas 501 del Puerto, S.A. Since then, the winery made agreements with other companies, including the Osborne Group. 

Since 2016, Bodegas 501 owed taxes over 16 Million Euros, although they had already stopped producing wines, only continuing to make brandies. There were rumors that the taxes were due to alleged fraud in the payment of their taxes. The company was seized and their assets were auctioned off during the summer of 2021.  

The Bodegas 501 Gades Amontillado Viejisimo VORS Sherry (about $50-$65) is an Amontillado, a type of sherry which undergoes both biological and oxidative aging. They are commonly a light amber color, dry and nutty, with herbal and spice aspects. This is also a VORS Sherry, which refers to its aging category, and means "Vinum Optimum Rare Signatum" (Wine Selected as Optimal and Exceptional). The wine must be of an average age of at least 30 years, and undergo rigorous testing to ensure its high quality. 

However, this wine was sourced from a solera of 8 botas, Sherry barrels, each which held about 132 gallons each. The exact age of these botas was unknown so the average age of the sherry could actually be much longer than 30 years. Even if that age was known though, there isn't a designation higher than VORS. I've previously had a VORS Sherry, which had an average age of over 100 years, but on the label, it can only be said to be at least 30 years old.  

This Amontillado possessed a light amber color, with an alluring aroma. On the palate, it was dry and complex, with harmonious flavors of salted nuts, caramel, mild spices, and a touch of tobacco. It also possessed a lengthy and intriguing finish, providing much pleasure. As I slowly sipped the wine over the course of the evening, the wine evolved in the glass, with other complex flavors seem to peek out at times, making this a wine to savor slowly over time, relishing its fascinating profile. A superb sherry, which I would highly recommend.  

I previously purchased this sherry at Bin Ends in Needham, although it wasn't currently available there the last few times I've been there. 

The History of Cashew Chicken & Springfield-Style Cashew Chicken

About a week ago, the Fodor's Travel website posted an article, The Ozark Town Where Cashew Chicken Was Invented by Erika Ebsworth-Goold (August 12, 2024). The article stated, "Springfield also has an unexpected culinary claim to fame. It’s the birthplace of a beloved takeout classic: cashew chicken." This referred to Springfield, Missouri, and the article also noted, "It turns out the creation was first cooked up more than six decades ago at a Springfield tea house." This was the tale of David Leong, a Chinese immigrant, who owned Leong's Tea House, which opened in 1963. 

The problem is that this story is misleading, and doesn't accurately reflect the truth about the invention of cashew chicken. David Leong plays an important role in the history of cashew chicken, but it requires further explanation.

First, and importantly, cashew chicken is a traditional Chinese dish, sometimes referred to as 腰果鸡丁, (Yāoguǒ jī). To the Chinese, cashews resemble the golden ingots that once were used as a form of currency, so they are consumed during the Chinese New Year, hoping for prosperity for the New Year. However, the traditonal dish is commonly stir-fried in a wok, using small pieces of chicken, with vegetables and roasted cashews, in a light sauce. David Leong clearly didn't invent this dish. So, what did he invent?

The earliest reference I found in the U.S. for "cashew chicken" was in the Chula Vista Star (CA), May 28, 1948. The above advertisement indicated that Dock's served American and Chinese cuisine, and one of their dishes included “Cashew Chicken" for $1.50. 

A few years later, the first recipe appeared in an ad in The Independent, January 25, 1951. The Food Bowl Market offered a recipe for “Chicken-Cashew Nut.” 

However, apparently not all chicken cashew dishes had a Chinese origin. For example, The Patriot News (PA), October 7, 1951, published an article on amateur poultry cooks in Pennsylvania It stated, “Pennsylvania Dutch dishes stopped the poultry show last week in Harrisburg as spectators gazed in wonderment while 28 farm women and two men put together ingredients for tempting poultry and egg dishes.” One of those dishes included “chicken cashew.”

Another example, with a recipe, was included in the Buffalo News (NY), December 11, 1951. There was clearly no Chinese influence in this recipe.

Another non-Chinese influenced recipe was found in The Grand Island Independent (NE), August 21, 1952. This recipe was also printed in newspapers in California, Florida and Wisconsin. 

In the Complete Chicken Cookery (1953) by Marian Tracy, there was another recipe, for a dish that wasn't Chinese inspired.  

The Merced Sun-Star (CA), March 3, 1955, published an advertisement for The Grange Company, noting “Better Feed for California Chickens.” The ad also mentioned, “Sometime in the last 4,000 years a Chinese genius sampled his latest culinary experiment and delightedly announced “This is it!” A recipe for "Chicken with Pineapple and Cashew Nuts." This is the first recipe where the chicken was fried in a batter, and coated with crushed cashew nuts. The recipe is also very different from the traditional Chinese version. 

The fact the chicken in this recipe was fried in a batter is important as over 11 years later, David Leong would become famous for frying his chicken pieces in his cashew chicken dish. It doesn't seem likely that David would have seen this recipe as he was living in Missouri at the time, and probably wouldn't have been reading California newspapers. 

As for Chinese versions of cashew chicken, the Ogden Standard-Examiner (UT), March 8, 1956, briefly mentioned Yu Tou Guy Ding (diced chicken with cashew nuts). In the Daily Palo Alto Times (CA), September 24, 1956, there was an ad from Ming's, a Cantonese restaurant. It mentioned a Typical Family Dinner for Four, and one of the dishes was “Cashew Chicken.” The Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), February 23, 1957, also had a restaurant ad, for Mok Larn Chein restaurant, with a large menu and one of the items was “Cashew nut chicken” for $1.50. 

The Chicago Tribune (IL), November 18, 1957, published a recipe for Chicken Cashew, a "$5 Favorite Recipe" from one of their readers. This recipe obviously was inspired by Chinese recipes. 

The Stockton Evening and Sunday Record (CA), May 9, 1958, ran an ad for Minnie’s, which offered Chinese-American dishes, including “Cashew Chicken Mandarin.” The Journal Herald (OH), September 26, 1958, in a discussion of Chinese restaurants in San Francisco, briefly mentioned "cashew chicken." 

More details came in The Peninsula Times Tribune (CA), February 25, 1959. The newspaper provide a recipe for a Cantonese dish, cashew chicken, which came from Ming restaurant's chef Mee Wah Jung. The article also noted, “The cashew chicken (‘yew dow gai kow’) is cubes of boned chicken, marinated and toss-cooked with crisp cashews from India, onions and bamboo shoots.” This was basically a more traditional version of the dish. 

The Independent (CA), March 27, 1959, had an ad for New China Tea Garden, offering “Cashew Nut Chicken Chow Yuke” for $1.55. The Daily Illini (IL), June 3, 1959, also had an ad for the new Hong Kong Restaurant, with a specialty of Cashew Chicken. The Anaheim Gazette (CA), February 12, 1960, mentioned the Crow’s Restaurant in Long Beach, a Chinese-American restaurant, which served “Cashew Nut Chicken.” During the next couple years, cashew chicken would be mentioned in a number of other ads for Chinese-American restaurants, and there would be other traditional recipes provided as well.  

The Douglas County Gazette (NE), October 12, 1962, offered an interesting recipe variation called "Cashew Chicken Casserole."

Eight Immortal Flavors (1963), a Chinese cookbook, by Johnny Kan & Charles L. Leong, contained a recipe for "Cashew Chicken (Yew Dow Gai Kow)," which was similar to their Walnut Chicken recipe, but with cashews instead of walnuts. This was again, a very traditional recipe. 

And it's also in 1963, that the tale of a new version of Cashew Chicken began, although the origins of that tale extend back over twenty years. Many sources claim that David Leong invented cashew chicken in 1963, but in actuality, he only invented a fried variation of it. And the actual year of that invention is in question.  

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Around 1940, David Leong, a native of China, immigrated to the United States and soon became a naturalized citizen. During World War II, he was drafted and served during the invasion of Normandy. After the war, David started working in restaurants on the East Coast and in the South, including in New Orleans, Florida, and New York. 

In 1955, David was working at a Chinese restaurant in Florida. There are two different versions of what happened next, although the end result was the same. The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), May 1, 1977, stated that Dr. John L.K. Tsang, a physician in Springfield, Missouri, desired Chinese cuisine in Springfield so he advertised in a Chinese newspaper nationwide. David Leong read the advertisement and persuaded Gee, his brother, to move with him to Springfield, to work in a restaurant and serve Chinese cuisine.

However, six years later, the Springfield Leader and Press (MO), September 21, 1983, provided a different version of this event.  The article claimed that in 1955, Dr. Tsang visited Pensacola, Florida and patronized the restaurant where David worked. Dr. Tsang was so impressed with the food that he convinced David, and his brother, to return to Springfield with him and work in a restaurant there. Whichever version is true, the end result was the same, with David and Gee Leong moving to Missouri to work in a restaurant preparing Chinese cuisine.

The Springfield News-Leader (MO), August 24, 1955, reported that the Lotus Garden restaurant would open that week, offering Chinese and American cuisine. The restaurant was owned by Dr. Tsang, who was said to have employed “a Chinese born-chef who served with the U.S. Army in combat action on the European fronts during World War II.” Neither David Leong or his brother Gee were mentioned by name in the article, although this would be the first restaurant in Springfield they worked in.

The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), January 14, 1956, presented an ad for Lotus Garden, which listed some of their Chinese dishes, from egg rolls to chicken chow mein. 

It seems Dr. Tsang soon after sold the restaurant to Win Yin Leong, who didn't seem related to David Leong. David continued to work at the Lotus Gardens into 1957, although he would move to another restaurant early in 1958.  

The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), April 14, 1958, presented the above advertisement for The Grove, a supper club, where the food was “authentically prepared by David Leong.” David appears to have been the primary chef rather than his brother Gee, as Gee was not mentioned in connection with either Lotus Garden or The Grove. 

A terrible accident! The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), August 7, 1960, reported that a vehicle, a 1960 Pontiac, struck The Grove restaurant. The damage was significant, creating an 8 foot wide and 5 foot high hole in one of the restaurant walls and also causing a minor gas explosion. The vehicle also pinned two cooks, David Leong, age 39, and Yuen Leong, age 28 (this might actually be Gee), to a wall. Both of them sustained second and third degree burns and were taken to the hospital, although they were quickly treated and then released, so the injuries may not have been as significant as they seemed. The vehicle also caused about $10,000 in property damages, which included about $2,000 in dishes. 

A few years later, David and Gee decided to establish their own restaurant. The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), May 12, 1963, reported that David and Gee had plans in the works to open a new Chinese-American restaurant in Springfield. The newspaper noted, “Two Chinese brothers, both cooks, and both already well-known in the Ozarks and nationwide for their original Chinese dishes, will be the owners and operators of the establishment.”

The new restaurant, Leong's Tea House was supposed to open in mid-November, 1963, but an explosion changed those plans. The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), November 18, 1963, reported that someone placed about 10 sticks of dynamite next to a wall of the soon-to-open restaurant. The above photograph shows some of the results of the explosion. The Springfield News-Leader (MO), November 19, 1963, added more information. The property damages were estimated at $2000-$2500, and the building owner, Lee McLean, offered a $1500 reward for information on the bombers. The police believed the dynamite was placed or thrown, maybe in a metal container, at the base of a 8-foot square plastic window. The Leongs had not received any prior threats, and the police didn't have any suspects. Curiously, the two 75-pound stone lions, which were in the front of the restaurant, had also been stolen that same night.  

Arrests made! The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), December 5, 1963, stated that three men had been arrested for “grand stealing” for the theft of the 2 stone lions. The men included Walter Lewis Phillips., III (age 23), Dennis Earl Nelson (age 20), and Ralph Warren Crover (age 37). The three men, pictured above, are posing with the stone lions and certainly don’t look remorseful. 

More information came from the Springfield News-Leader (MO), December 5, 1963. Dennis, a delivery man, and Walter, who designed costume jewelry, admitted to stealing the stone lions. The police then followed up and arrested Ralph, a cosmetologist. However, results of lie detector tests cleared them of any connection to the bombing. It seemed that the theft was merely a strange coincidence. The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), January 13, 1964, then reported that the three defendants pled guilty to new charges of malicious destruction of property and were fined $25 plus costs. 

It didn't appear that the identify of the bomber or bombers was ever solved, and there weren't any other similar incidents. 

The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), December 8, 1963, mentioned that Leong’s Tea House had just opened and the above photo shows the exterior of the restaurant.

The Springfield News-Leader (MO), January 1, 1964, printed the first advertisement for Leong’s Tea House, but it didn't mention cashew chicken. Another ad in the Springfield Leader and Press (MO), January 5, 1964, mentioned that they served Special Sunday dinners including Southern Fried Chicken, and also offered “Delicious Chinese Foods.” Additional advertisements in 1964 for the restaurant continued to mention Southern Fried Chicken, and only a single Chinese dish: "Chow Steaks, Kew." That dish was described as "Sliced Beef Tenderloin With Chinese Vegetables and Pea Pod Mushrooms."

The first mention of cashew chicken at the restaurant was in July 1965, about a year and a half after its opening. The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), July 13, 1965, mentioned that a wedding party was held at Leong’s and they had a menu of cashew chicken and rice. Did David serve cashew chicken when his restaurant first opened in December 1963? And if he did, was it the traditional version? When did David first serve his own variation, where the chicken was battered and fried? It doesn't appear there is any documentary evidence to answer all of these questions. 

There is some information that Leong's Tea House might not have done well at the start, as the populace wasn't too willing to embrace Chinese cuisine. Allegedly, that is when David decided to create some Chinese dishes that appealed more to American tastes. Their Southern Fried Chicken might have been a big seller, so David may have then decided to alter the traditional cashew chicken dish and fried the chicken rather than stir-fry it. So, David's version of cashew chicken might not have been invented until 1964, 1965, or even later. 

The next mention of cashew chicken wouldn't be for another year, when the Springfield Leader and Press (MO), July 28, 1966, noted that another wedding party had a luncheon at Leong and their menu included cashew chicken. The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), September 9, 1966, also mentioned a luncheon meeting with a menu including “cashew chicken.” The Polk County Times (MO), February 9, 1967, had a similar mention. None of these mentions indicated that the cashew chicken was of the fried chicken variation. 

The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), June 5, 1967, presented an ad for The Grove restaurant which mentioned that one of their Chinese dinners included “Cashew Chicken, Egg Foo Young, Steamed Rice” for $1.95. Was this the traditional dish, or had The Grove adopted David's fried chicken variation? Unfortunately, the ad doesn't provide an answer.

Another Springfield restaurant serving cashew chicken! The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), October 31, 1971, noted that the House of Cheong, a Chinese American Restaurant, had recently opened by Cheong Leong, who had 18 years of experiences in the Chinese restaurant business. Cashew chicken was one of their offerings, although again we don't know whether this was the traditional dish or not. 

Leong's Tea House and David Leong received much attention in a lengthy newspaper article in May 1977, about 13 1/2 years after the restaurant's opening. The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), May 1, 1977, began by explaining that Springfield, Missouri had a population of about 146,000, and “has perhaps become the Chinese restaurant capital of the Midwest.” The article also added, “we’re guessing Springfield has more Chinese food outlets per capita” than other major cities.  

The article then stated, “What may surprise many is that the cashew chicken dish served in nearly all of these restaurants originated in Springfield.” The article also explained the two types of cashes chicken. “True, it has a real Chinese counterpart, but the crusty chicken bits, served with rice and oyster sauce so familiar to Springfield diners is David Leong’s version of a steamed chicken dish served in Hong Kong.” David felt that “Americans won’t eat steamed fish or chicken” so he decided to fry it instead in his dish. The exact date of that invention wasn't specified.  

The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), January 3, 1979, provided an article about Gee Leong, and included a recipe for Crispy Cashew Chicken, which would probably be similar to the dish they served at their restaurant. 

The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), September 21, 1983, presented some confusing information. It began with, “About two decades ago, believe it or not, there was no cashew chicken. Not in Springfield. Not even in China.” This was clearly untrue, and the article even contradicted itself, stating, “And knowing the American palate to be fond of fried foods, Leong took a Cantonese steamed chicken dish and adapted it a bit. He dipped the boneless chicken chunks in a tempura-style batter, fried them, covered them with oyster sauce, chopped green onions and cashews, and served them on a bed of rice.” That statement indicated cashew chicken was a Cantonese dish, which David put his on spin on. 

David's variation acquired its own identity. The Columbia Daily Tribune (MO), February 28, 1984, provided the first mention of “Springfield-Style Cashew Chicken,” which was an homage to David Leong. Over time, that name would spread across the country, so everyone understood what Springfield-Style meant. 

The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), April 19, 1989, mentioned that there were about 350 restaurants in Springfield, considering all of the various cuisines, and that about 53 of those restaurants offered cashew chicken. The Daily Journal (MA), May 1, 1990, noted that Springfield had acquired the unofficial nickname of “Cashew Chicken Capital of the Midwest.” The article also noted that a local newspaper columnist had done some calculations, estimating that Springfield restaurants served at least  6697-8554 dishes of cashew chicken each day, averaging 2.4 -3.1 million a year. The article continued,  “Chefs here dip the chicken in batter, deep-fat fry it, smother it with a thick brown sauce made from chicken stock and soy sauce, add cashews and a few bits of green onion and serve the concoction beside a bed of fried rice.”

David Leong may not have invented cashew chicken but his fried variation has achieved its own element of immortality, becoming extremely popular and spreading across the country. David's variation has existed for about 60 years and its popularity has probably never been greater. It's best to refer to his creation as “Springfield-Style Cashew Chicken,” to differentiate it from the classic version. 

Do you prefer the traditional Cashew Chicken or the newer Springfield-style Cashew Chicken?