Wednesday, April 29, 2026

Origin of the Chow Mein Sandwich: A Fall River Invention?

"The question then is "What is a Chow Mein Sandwich?" The chow mein part is easy enough to describe. It is a mixture of minced meat (pork), celery, onions, and bean sprouts in gravy over deep fried noodles. This combination or blend of ingredients is more like a thick sauce or a stew. It is placed between a hamburger bun or between two slices of white bread. For the latter, brown gravy is ladled over the works. As with any category of chow mein, there are variations. In addition to pork (the standard), there are other choices such as chicken, beef, or shrimp."
--Flavor and Fortune, Summer Volume (1999),  Chow Mein Sandwiches by Imogene Lim 

Most sources, including Imogene Lim, claim that this sandwich was invented in Fall River, Massachusetts, and is best known in the Fall River area and parts of Rhode Island, although it was also once available on Coney Island, New York. 

However, the actual origins of this sandwich are murky, and no one seems to be able to pinpoint actually when it was first created. Some think the sandwich was created in the 1930s, while others place its origin in the 1920s, if not earlier. The common reason claimed for its creation is that Chinese restaurants made the sandwich to cater to poor immigrants who wanted something hearty at a very low price. 

Imogene L. Lim, PhD. is considered an expert on the chow mein sandwich and has written a number of articles about it, and has been interviewed in various publications about this sandwich. Most sources rely on her information about the sandwich. I've read her articles and interviews, and found that there are interesting omissions, that she concentrates primarily on Fall River and the surrounding region, without addressing instances of the chow mein sandwich in other parts of the country, from Pennsylvania to Wyoming, during the 1920s and 1930s. These other instances could possibly indicate that the chow mein sandwich originated elsewhere, or that there were multiple independent origins. 

I want to explore the early history of the chow mein sandwich, to try to ascertain its possible origins, and expand the discussion outside of the Fall River region. I previously wrote Origins of the Chop Suey Sandwich, and I found the earliest mention of a chop suey sandwich occurred in California in 1912. This predates, by about 15 years, any reference to a chow mein sandwich. Other references to chop suey sandwiches, from 1914-1930s, were found across the country and not just in Massachusetts. It seems likely the chow mein sandwich was inspired, in part, by the earlier chop suey sandwich.   

********************

Some sources claim that Frederick Wong, a Chinese immigrant and restaurateur, deserves credit for either the invention or popularity of the chow mein sandwich. Based on the timing and other instances of the sandwich around the country, it's very unlikely that he invented the sandwich. However, it's possible he might have been the inventor of the sandwich in Fall River, as his restaurant was the first to mention the sandwich in that area. Either way, it's clear he helped to contribute to its popularity in Fall River, especially after he opened his own noodle company. 

In 1926, Frederick traveled from Canton, China, to Massachusetts, to study at Salem State University. While visiting his uncle in Fall River, who owned the Hong Kong Restaurant, Frederick decided to enter the restaurant business, and would spend 10 years working at his uncle's restaurant. In July 1927, an advertisement noted that Frederick, as "Fred Wong" was the management of the Island Park Chinese Restaurant and the proprietor of the Hong Kong Restaurant. 

The Fall River Herald News (MA), August 18, 1931, announced the opening of the Hong Kong Restaurant Annex. The ad noted they offered Hot Chow Mein and Chop Suey Sandwiches for 5 cents each, which was the first mention of Frederick and the chow mein sandwich. It was also the first mention of a chow mein sandwich being offered in Fall River. The ad also connected the two sandwiches, and that connection would continue with other Fall River Chinese restaurants.

The Fall River Herald News (MA), August 24, 1932, printed an ad where the price of the sandwiches at the Hong Kong restaurant rose, Chow Mein and Chop Suey Sandwiches for 10 cents each. If you ate the sandwich in the restaurant, you also were given a cup of tea. 

In 1938, Frederick opened the Oriental Chow Mein Company in Fall River, which would become the main source for the area's crispy noodles for chow mein, under the brand name of Hoo-Mee, and which also sold chow mein gravy mix. This helped to make chow mein sandwiches even more popular. Initially, his products were only sold locally, but around 1940, he began packaging the noodles and gravy mix, for sale outside of the local region.

********************

Chow mein sandwiches were also once sold at Nathan's Famous, the iconic hot dog stand on Coney Island. However, when they first started selling those sandwiches is ambiguous, although Imogene Lim has stated Nathan’s began serving it in the 1920s and other sources claim they didn't start serving it until the 1950s. In Famous Nathan: A Family Saga of Coney Island, the American Dream, and the Search for the Perfect Hot Dog (2016), by Lloyd Handwerker and Gil Reavill, it was stated that Sinta Low, a cook and kitchen manager created chow mein sandwiches for the stand. Sinta was an immigrant from Taiwan, and "his realm was the kitchen, and he rarely ventured out front." No specific year was provided for the creation of this sandwich. 

It was mentioned, “The chow mein sandwich was built with thin fried noodles, Chinese raw noodles, which we used to fry in the potato fryer. I’d take a bun, crease it in the middle, then put in a handful of noodles and spread chow mein on top of them. There were bottles of soy sauce on the counter. Ten cents for the sandwich. People loved it.” The book continued, "When the innovative concoction was advertised on a placard hanging above the counter, Sinta rebelled. He didn’t like the grinning, pigtailed “Chinaman” caricature painted on the sign. Nathan immediately apologized and had the offending placard taken down

In Nathan's Famous: The First 100 Years of America's Favorite Frankfurter Company (2016) by William Handwerker, there wasn't a single mention of the chow mein sandwich.

The first mention I found of a chow mein sandwich was back in 1927, but it's not quite what you might have expected. 

The Akron Beacon Journal (OH), July 5, 1927, published an ad for a Chow Mein Sandwich Spread,  a large jar selling for 23 cents. The Widlar Food Products Company, who sold this spread, was based in  Cleveland, and had been founded in 1855. They were known for selling coffee, tea, spices, and condiments, but in 1929, the company was merged, with others, into Standard Brands, Inc.

The Sauk Centre Herald (MN), September 15, 1927, also had ad for this Chow Mein Sandwich Spread, which sold for 30 cents. The Canton Daily News (OH), February 10, 1928, printed an ad for The Acme Cash Basket Stores grocery store, offering "Widlar's Chow Mein Sandwich Spread." selling a jar that regularly sold for 25 cents for only 19 cents.

The Lewiston Daily News (MT), August 11, 1928, had a supermarket ad for supermarket, offering the Chow Mein Sandwich Spread, in small jars for 29 cents and a large jar for 57 cents. The Evening Repository (OH), December 19, 1928, also had an ad for a grocery store which sold Widlar's Chow Mein Sandwich Spread in jars for 15 or 23 cents. 

Could this Sandwich Spread have been the idea that spawned the Chow Mein Sandwich? Unfortunately, the ingredients in this Spread weren't provided in any of the ads. Did it contain crispy noodles? 

The first documented mention I found of a Chow Mein Sandwich was in Pennsylvania in 1928. The Harrisburg Telegraph (PA), April 14, 1928, ran the above ad for the Mandarin Restaurant in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania. It mentioned, "Chicken Chow Mein Sandwich, Luncheon Specialty." This restaurant opened in 1927.

Could Pennsylvania be the actual origin location of the chow mein sandwich? If it had originated in Fall River, how could have information about it have traveled to Pennsylvania? The earlier newspapers hadn't mentioned Fall River and chow mein sandwiches. How quickly could word of mouth have transferred information about the sandwich?  

Two months later, the chow mein sandwich was seen in Wyoming, over 2100 miles from Fall River. The Branding Iron (WY), June 12, 1928, published an advertisement for The Campus Shop, a collegiate cafe, which stated, "Welcome Summer Students." As seen above, one item on the menu was a Chow Mein Sandwich, which sold for 15 cents. If the sandwich originated in Fall River, how could word of it have traveled to Wyoming at this time point? It seems very unlikely that it might have occurred, and more likely Wyoming either invented the sandwich itself or was inspired by somewhere much closer than Fall River. 

The Springfield Leader & Press (MO), December 10, 1929, provided an ad for Williams Luncheonette, offering a "Chicken Chow Mein Sandwich" for 30 cents. Again, Missouri is quite a distance from Fall River. 

Pennsylvania, Wyoming and Missouri. All three states offering Chow Mein Sandwiches before any documented mention of its availability in Fall River. So, did the sandwich originate in one of those three states, or was it an independent origin, separate from the one in Fall River?

I previously wrote an article about the First Chinese Restaurants in Fall River, and the first one, Man Won Low, opened in October 1898. In none of the research for that article did I see any reference to a Chow Mein sandwich. 

It has been said that the heyday of the chow mein sandwich was in the Fall River region during the 1930s and 1940s. It would be in 1931 that would see the first collection of newspaper references to chow mein sandwiches, with a number of Chinese restaurants offering the sandwiches. The first newspaper reference I found for the Fall River area was in the previously mentioned Fall River Herald News (MA), August 18, 1931, which mentioned that the Hong Kong Restaurant Annex offered Hot Chow Mein and Chop Suey Sandwiches for 5 cents each.

The Fall River Herald News (MA), October 30, 1931, reported that there was a price war going on with the Chinese restaurants in Fall River. Chow Mein and Chop Suey Sandwiches were now being offered by at least one merchant for as low as 5 cents each. Other Chinese restaurant owners had banded together to battle this low price, hoping for the price to return to what was normally charged, although that price wasn't mentioned in the article. However, later ads in the coming weeks showed that other restaurants started lowering their sandwich prices to 5 cents as well. 

The Standard Times (MA), November 25, 1931, in an advertisement for the Hong-Fong Restaurant located in New Bedford. It offered Chop Suey and Chow Mein Sandwiches, 1 for 5 cents or 3 for 10 cents. Definitely very inexpensive, especially as compared to the other prices in the ad for different dishes. The Fall River Herald News (MA), November 30, 1931, ran an ad for the Mee King Low Restaurant, which offered a Hot Chow Mein or Chop Suey Sandwich for 5 cents. 

The Fall River Herald News (MA), December 2, 1931, printed an ad for Joe's Restaurant, a new Chinese spot that would open the next day. They would serve Chow Mein and Chop Suey Sandwiches, for 5 cents each. The Fall River Herald News (MA), December 2, 1931, printed an ad for Joe's Restaurant, a new Chinese spot that would open the next day. They would serve Chow Mein and Chop Suey Sandwiches, for 5 cents each. The Fall River Herald News (MA), December 4, 1931, had an ad for the Oriental Chinese Restaurant, which sold Chow Mein and Chop Suey Sandwiches for 5 cents each.

The Fall River Herald News (MA), March 10, 1932, had an ad for the Grand Opening of the Joy Hong Low restaurant, which sold Chow Mein and Chop Suey Sandwiches for 5 cents each. There were also ads in 1932 for chow mein sandwiches for some of the other Fall River restaurants mentioned in the 1931 references.

In the Annual Report from New York Superintendent of Schools (1933), it was noted, “A pupil while eating a chow mein sandwich purchased in the lunch room of the high school, found a piece of glass in her mouth;” So, the chow mein sandwich was popular enough in New York that it was being served at high school cafeterias. 

The Brattleboro Reformer (VT), November 18, 1933, printed the above ad for Christy's Restaurant, which offered Business Women's Luncheons. One of those specials included a "Hot Chow Mein Sandwich."

The Herald News (MA), December 12, 1933, had an ad for the Shanghai Restaurant in New Bedford, which served Chow Mein Sandwiches. 

The Day (CT), January 17, 1935,
 in an ad for the Anchor Inn, noted a Special where each patron would get a "Chow Mein Sandwich prepared by Our Chinese Chef."

The Jackson Citizen Patriot (MI), February 7, 1935, in an ad for Peck's store, offered a Chow Mein Sandwich for 10 cents.

The Providence Journal (RI), June 6, 1935
, posted an ad for the Young China Restaurant, which sold Chow Mein and Chop Suey sandwiches for 5 cents each.

The Niles Daily Star (MI), July 12, 1935, briefly noted, "The chop suey and chow mein sandwiches have made the Oasis Inn a famous place. In fact, it is the only place in this locality that offers the appetizing chow mein sandwich." The chow mein sandwich wasn't that common in Michigan, but was available in at least two places.

The Times (NJ), September 7, 1935
, printed an ad for the Hamilton Grill, offering a "Toasted Chow Mein Sandwich" for 10 cents.

The Schenectady Gazette (NY), October 29, 1935, had a restaurant ad, with a Chow Mein Sandwich for 15 cents.

The Press and Sun Bulletin (NY), April 4, 1936, printed an ad for Rose's Restaurant, which offered a Chicken Chow Mein Sandwich for 20 cents.

The Day (CT), January 4, 1937
, had an ad for the Palace Restaurant, with a Chow Mein Sandwich, as one choice in their Special 35 Cents Lunch. 

The Battle Creek Moon-Journal (MI), September 17, 1937, in an ad for the Lockshore Dairy Bar, mentioned they sold a Chow Mein Sandwich on Bun for 10 cents.

The Waco News-Tribune (TX), June 14, 1938, mentioned that there was a hot dog stand in New York City,  at 50th and 7th, which also sold chow mein sandwiches.

The Keyport Weekly (NJ), October 6, 1938
, advertised a new restaurant which sold Chow Mein Sandwiches for 10 cents.

The Daily Reporter (NY), January 27, 1940,
in an ad for the new Chromium Rail, offering a Chinese Chow Mein Sandwich for 25 cents.

The Berkshire County Eagle (MA), May 1, 1940, printed an ad for The China Clipper, "Pittsfield's Only Chinese Restaurant." Their Daily Special, for lunch, was the "Hot Chow Mein Sandwich," for 25 cent.s

The Central New Jersey Home News (NJ), October 26, 1940, in an ad for The Paddock, stated you could get a "Free Hot Chow Mein Sandwich."

The Plain Speaker (PA), January 23, 1941
, had an ad for the Dove Restaurant, which offered a Chicken Chow Mein Sandwich and Steamed Rice for 25 cents

The Press and Sun Bulletin (NY), August 16, 1941, printed an ad for Porter's, which stated "The only place in Binghampton where you can get a real Chinese Chow Mein sandwich, Coney Island style."

The Berkshire Eagle (MA), September 9, 1941
, had an ad for the East Lee Inn, offering Chicken Chow Mein Sandwich with potato and vegetable for 50 cents.

The Star Tribune (MN), August 17, 1942, in an article from their "Washington Bureau."" it was mentioned that ".., President James Bryant Conant, Harvard, dropped into Washington's oriental restaurant for--a chow mein sandwich."

The Lewiston Daily Sun (ME), August 22, 1946, had an ad for the Nanking Royal Restaurant, offering a Chow Mein Sandwich for 15 cents

*******************
Where were chow mein sandwiches invented? Although Fall River is considered the top choice, there is a clear lack of documentary evidence to indicate when they might have done so. And at best, there are multiple references in 1931 to this sandwich existing at Fall River restaurants. However, there are prior references, in 1928 and 1929, of chow mein sandwiches in Pennsylvania, Wyoming and Missouri, and these cast doubt that Fall River was the originator, or at least the sole originator. 

There's no evidence that these states were inspired by Fall River, especially considering the distances involved. And the sources who claim Fall River invented the sandwich, don't address these other states which offered the sandwich during the 1920s. These earlier references are simply ignored, not mentioned in their articles about the sandwich's origins. Even during the 1930s, chow mein sandwiches were seen outside of Fall River, in states including Pennsylvania, New York, New Jersey, Michigan, Vermont and Connecticut. 

So, did the sandwich actually originate in Pennsylvania, Wyoming and Missouri, or was it an independent origin, separate from the one in Fall River? Without specific documented references to chow mein sandwiches in Fall River during the 1920s, maybe we have to consider the sandwich originated elsewhere. 

Tuesday, April 28, 2026

Alma Gaucha: Brazilian Rodizio in Worcester For The Win!

I don't get to Worcester as much as I should, but on my most recent visit there, I sought out a new spot for lunch. As I did some research, I learned about Alma Gaucha, a Brazilian Rodizio restaurant that had opened in December 2025. The initial reviews were positive, the menu looked interesting, and it appealed to the other five friends who were joining me for lunch. So, I made reservations and we took a chance on this new spot. 

Alma Gaucha is owned by Nelson DeOliveira, an entrepreneur who also is the owner and CEO of Nelson Group Construction in Medford. Nelson was born on a cattle farm in Brazil but came to the U.S. when he was very young. He also owns the Alma Gaucha restaurant in Boston's Seaport. I have not dined at the Boston location yet, but am planning to do so in the future.

As you enter the restaurant, you can see the elegant bar section to the right, with a small lounge area. 


The dining areas also are more elegant, with a rustic touch from all the wood decor. It's a much larger restaurant than it looks from then outside. This would be a good place for romantic dates or business meetings, family or friend gatherings. 


As you walk through the dining room, you can also see the grills, which are open to view. 

The Drinks menu at the restaurant offers wine, beer, spirits and cocktails. The Wine list has 14 wines available by the glass, priced $8-$14, with choices from all over the world. The Cocktail list has plenty of options, and their specialty are their Caipirinhas, with seven varieties available (priced at $15-$16). The Caipirinha is Brazil's famed cocktail, made with cachaça (a rum-like spirit produced from sugarcane), lime, and sugar, muddled together. The seven options included: Tropical, Alma Premium, Passion Fruit/Lime, Strawberry, Kiwi, Coconut/Pineapple, and Dragon Fruit

The Tropical Caipirinha ($16) was made with cachaça, fresh muddled kiwi, strawberries, pineapple, limes, sugar, and ice. It was delicious and refreshing, fruity and lightly sweet. The cachaça was noticeable but not overly so. My friends who also ordered this cocktail enjoyed them as well. 

The Alma Premium Caipirinha ($15) was made with aged cachaça, fresh muddled limes, sugar, and ice. Again, this was refreshing and tasty, a nicely balanced cocktail with bright citrus notes. I've enjoyed caipirinha cocktails before, and this was an excellent example, which I'd strongly recommend.

As for the cachaça they use for these cocktails, they have their own brand of Silver Cachaça. They also have a 2-Year Old Gold Cachaça and a 20-Year Old Gold Cachaça. In addition, they have a few other Cachaça brands. 

For Lunch, Alma Gaucha offers two options: Market Table and Full Experience. The Market Table costs $19.95 during Weekdays and $33.95 on Weekends. The Market Table includes just their buffet tables, which contain a variety of salads, seasonal vegetables, and signature hot dishes. The Full Experience costs $42.95 during Weekdays and $53.95 during Weekends. It consists of the buffet tables, as well as unlimited meats carved tableside. Children under 6 years old are free, and children aged 7-12 pay half price. Dinner is more expensive. 

The Rodizio includes plenty of options, such as: Sirloin (Picanha), Ribeye, Tomahawk, Prime Ribs, Chuck Short Ribs, Tri-Tip Steak, Tenderloin (Filet Mignon), Prime Beef Ribs, Trip-Tip Sirloin with Cheese, Salmon, Lamb Chops, Lamb Steak, Brazilian Sausage, Pork Belly, Chicken Legs & Hearts, Grilled Cheese with Honey/Gauva Sauce, and Grilled Pineapple. At your seat, you are given a small circle, green on one side and red on the other, which respectively indicates when you want more meat, or when you need a break. And if you are seeking a specific option, just ask your server and they will try to expedite the delivery of that option.


The Buffet tables contain many options, from salads to soups. Although tasty, I usually only sample a few of these items, saving my main appetite for all of the meats that will soon come. Vegetarians though might enjoy all of the buffet options. 

As my friends and I sat our table, we were then witness to a few different servers bringing meats, seafood, and other items to our table, in a seemingly infinite progression, commonly slicing the various meats table-side. I didn't take any photos of these meats, simply enjoying my lunch. In general, the meats were fresh, tender and flavorful, sometimes with a prominent saltiness. The Tenderloin was probably my favorite cut, but I enjoyed all of the meats, from the lamb to the sausages. The salmon was excellent, and the grilled pineapple was a pure delight, very juicy with a light cinnamon coating on the exterior. I didn't have anything that I disliked.  

Despite having consumed so much for lunch, we still had a little room for Dessert (which isn't included as part of the Rodizio price), including Pecan Pie ($14), Warm Bourbon Pecan Pie accompanied with Coconut Toasted Pineapple Ice Cream; Flan ($11), Brazilian style Flan with condensed milk, with a homemade caramel sauce; and Chocolate Mousse ($12), Velvety Homemade chocolate mousse with chocolate shavings. The desserts were tasty as well, and I especially liked the Coconut Toasted Pineapple Ice Cream. And it might have been nice to have a bit of whipped cream atop the Chocolate Mousse. 

This was probably one of the best Rodizio restaurants I've dined at in many years, and my friends were all in agreement. Quality and delicious food and cocktails. We consumed vast amounts of meats, and were satisfied and full for the rest of the day. The price for the Rodizio was reasonable for the quality and quantity of the food. In addition, service was excellent, and our primary server, Luly, was friendly, attentive and responsive. Highly recommended! 

Monday, April 27, 2026

Rant: For Mother's Day, Gift Your Mom A Bottle Of White Zin

In two weeks, on Sunday, May 10, it'll be Mother's Day, a time to honor our mothers, to show the love we possess for them. I love my mother, and she's worthy of much honor for her love, devotion, and sacrifices in raising me. However, she'll say that she doesn't need any specific day to be honored, that she feels my love every day. Many mothers probably feel that very same way about their children, yet we children still enjoy celebrating this holiday.

During the next month, will you buy your mom a gift? Jewelry, chocolates, flowers or maybe a bottle of wine? If you want to buy her a bottle of wine, what would be your best choice?

It might be White Zinfandel! 

That might confuse some people, and doesn't seem like the type of wine recommendation I usually would give. It's not the type of wine I promote at the twice weekly wine tastings at Victoria Hill Wine. So, why am I recommending it now?  

Thirteen years ago, I first posted a similar article, and the sentiment bears repeating. Back then, while working at a wine shop near Mother's Day, I sold more White Zinfandel than any other day I ever recalled. One of the customers seemed almost guilty buying it, telling me that it was for her mother, not wanting me to think she was drinking it. That made me ponder the matter, raising a question in my mind.

If you truly love your mother, would you really buy her an inexpensive, and much maligned, wine like a White Zinfandel?

Some might think the answer is easy, that their mother deserves much better than White Zinfandel, or a similarly cheap, mass produced wine. They would rather try to introduce their mother to some other wine, one which is much better in quality and taste. They might prefer to select a pricey wine, rather than the cheap White Zin. In some respects, they are correct. Your mom is certainly worthy of a pricey, high end wine. However, that doesn't mean you should buy your mother such a wine.

In fact, sometimes a White Zinfandel is the best wine you can buy for your mom.

For Mother's Day, I believe that you should give your mother the things she loves, no matter what they might be. I don't believe it's the day to test your mom, to give her mother something she might or might not enjoy. You want the day to be as perfect as possible for your mother, so you should cater to her desires. If she loves White Zinfandel, then the best wine you can give her for Mother's Day is White Zinfandel. You shouldn't feel guilty or cheap. You shouldn't feel like a bad child.

Even if you're a wine lover, conversant with wines from all over the world, don't shy away from buying White Zinfandel if that is what your mother loves. Maybe your mom has never had a Provence Rose or a Gruner Veltliner, and might enjoy them if she did. Then again, maybe she won't. Don't try to change your mother's palate on Mother's Day. You can do that on any other day of the year. Instead, give her what you know she already loves, even if it's White Zinfandel.

Yes, Love for your Mother can be expressed through White Zinfandel. 

Wednesday, April 22, 2026

A History of Boston's Chinatown and Its Restaurants: 1975-1979 (Part 19)

Let's continue a look at the 1970s in Chinatown, with this article dealing with the second half of that decade. Due to the lengthy size of the prior article, covering the first half of the 1970s, I chose to split the decade into two articles. As I previously mentioned, the 1970s were a time of showcasing the problems of Chinatown, and seeking solutions to help that community. The second half of the 1970s continued addressing these issues. It was also a time when Chinese restaurants were being lauded, some for quality cuisine and others for inexpensive food.     

*******************

We begin with an article in the Boston Globe, January 2, 1975, where the local food critic, Anthony Spinazzola, recapped a year of "good eating." One part of his recap dealt with Chinese food, and he wrote, “To Chinese food there is no end of memorable meals.” He specifically mentioned a famed restaurant, “The Kowloon does wonderful things with squab, just to mention one dish from among several (like the extra fine ribs).” I haven't seen any recent reviews mentioning squab at the Kowloon, and it doesn't seem to be on their menu any longer.  Spinazzola continued, “And I had the best lobster Cantonese I ever had one night at the China Pearl in Chinatown. And on a New Year’s Eve the Imperial egg rolls deserved the name.

The Boston Globe, January 5, 1975, printed an editorial, touching on the problems in Chinatown. “The plight of Chinatown is another reminder that we should all pay more attention to those who strive without complaining simply to endure with pride in themselves and their community.” It mentioned that in 1973, there had been 22 cases of juvenile delinquency in Chinatown, as opposed to a single case in 1972. It continued, “What they would not ask for themselves, the adults of Chinatown are now asking for their children. That is an end to a not-so-benign neglect by the city as a whole and more positive attention from City Hall to make growing up Chinese in Boston a blessing, not a burden.” The first half of the 1970s had seen some positive progress for Chinatown, but it's obvious that much more work was needed.

24 hour restaurants! The Boston Globe, January 9, 1975, noted that the number of 24-hour restaurants and businesses in Boston was shrinking, including in Chinatown. A couple of the reasons for the problems included that liquor licenses ended at 2am and the MBTA stopped service at 1am. It was then mentioned that the best 24-hour restaurants were in Chinatown, including the Golden Gate, 66 Beach St.; Kim Toy, 2 Tyler St.; and Song Hee, 58 Beach St.

Another gambling raid. The Boston Globe, January 15, 1975, reported that 27 Chinese gamblers had been arrested on December 10, when police raided their Pie Kow game. Over $41,000 was seized during the raid, but none of the Chinese would state whose money it was, so the judge ordered it to be turned over to the state treasury. All of the Chinese pled guilty, paying a fine and court costs. Such gambling raids had been going on since the late 19th century, and they hadn't really changed much at all. 

The Boston Herald American, March 8, 1975, mentioned that a new employment center had opened in Chinatown, under the auspices of the Action for Boston Community Development. A positive sign that hopefully would bring change to the community, and which would reduce some of the issues of juvenile delinquency.  

Venerating the elderly. The Boston Herald American, March 14, 1975, reported on the Second Annual Golden Age Banquet of the Greater South Cove Golden Age Center, Inc. which was held at the China Pearl Restaurant. “The occasion was a splendid tribute to the Chinese elderly. Traditionally, the Chinese have been known for their respect for their elders; not just their own kin, but all their elderly. Consul General Shi-Ying Woo, a speaker, stated, “Respect for the elderly is one of the virtues of the Chinese.”

The Golden Age Center, at 239 Harrison Avenue, was located in a building that's leased from the Boston Redevelopment Authority for only $1, and its Director was Mrs. Ruth Moy. The Center was open 7 days a week, offering many services, including legal assistance, social workers, medical assistance, and interpreting. The Center also served almost 2000 meals a month, at a cost of 50 cents per person. The Center needed additional funding to continue its valuable work.

Positive news about crime. The Boston Herald American, March 27, 1975, reported that crime in Chinatown was on the decrease. In addition, three Chinese-Americans had been recently appointed to the police academy, and were expected to graduate in 9-10 months. 

More details were provided in the Boston Globe, April 18, 1975. It was initially noted that Chinatown was located in Boston Police District 1, which between 1973-1974 showed the 3rd highest overall crime increase, 34%, in the city. However, that didn't mean Chinatown, only one region in that district, saw such an increase and there was only a single murder in Chinatown in 1974. It was also noted that vandalism appeared to be at a minimum, but it's the most frequently voiced complaint by residents. In addition, it was alleged that there was a high percentage of unreported crimes in Chinatown due to the language barrier. 

The Boston Globe, May 8, 1975, provided a 3-star restaurant review of Carl’s Pagoda on 23 Tyler Street, which was open from 5pm-2am and didn't serve alcohol. It was also a small place, holding maybe 40 seats. It was initially noted that in Chinatown, “Today most restaurants there probably do as much business at lunch as they do in the evening. It was not always thus.” This was an interesting change, as Chinatown seems to have acquired a much larger amount of visitors during the day, rather than just people coming for dinner. Nowadays, lunch at Chinese restaurants is very popular, especially people seeking a great value from their inexpensive combination plates. 

As for Carl’s Pagoda, “In an area I thought I knew well and loved, there was a newness and freshness to the food.” The review continued, “Many of the dishes…seem to revolve around fresh produce.” The reviewer did warn that he didn’t try the standard dishes, and if he had tried them, and they were as good as the other dishes, the restaurant might have earned 4 stars. 

The Boston Globe, June 20, 1975, printed an advertisement for the grand opening of King Wah, located at 25-29 Beach Street. It called itself “The Real Chinese Restaurant,” although there was no information on exactly what that meant. The menu had "Typical Cantonese foods," and also offered Chinese Pastry, which likely indicated Dim Sum.

Police discrimination? The Boston Globe, June 21, 1975, reported that leaders in Chinatown had asked Mayor Kevin White to reopen an investigation of alleged police discrimination and insensitivity toward the Chinese during a May 11 scuffle between 2 Chinese and 2 white men in Chinatown. These Chinatown leaders rejected the findings of an internal police investigation and considered it a whitewash. They claimed that the police took 26 minutes to respond to the scuffle and only arrested the 2 Chinese men.

The men involved in this scuffle included Paul Chan, age 29, and Jerry Chu, age 34, both of Harrison Avenue, and they were the manager and superintendent, respectively, of the MassPike Towers on Tremont Street. The other two men included Philip Klimek, age 25, and Raymond Fridinger, age 17. Chan said that one of the other men one had a metal tire iron and attacked Chu after they told the two men to leave the parking lot. Klimek and Fridinger claimed that Chan and Chu attacked them when Fridinger urinated in the parking lot, and then Klimek grabbed the tire iron to defend themselves.  

The police claimed they reached the scene in 5 minutes, and Chan and Chu were taken to police station, while Klimek went to hospital with head injury, having been hit by a wooden board. It was also claimed that Fridinger left alone, although the police claimed all four men had been charged with assault abductions battery. In the end, all of the charges were dismissed. 

The Boston Globe, July 13, 1975, noted that Chinese elderly men outnumbered women by a 6 to 1 ratio, and many of those men lived alone. Mental illness among the elderly often got little medical attention. It was mentioned, “The Golden Age Center in Chinatown remains the major preventative mental resource for the elderly.” The Center had about 700 members, including a 105 year old man, Wong Hong. Wow! He would have been born around 1870. 

The Boston Herald American, August 20, 1975, reported that the Boston Police Academy would graduate its first Chinese patrolmen in February 1976. This would include John Tou, age 26, and Paul Chin, age 26 (both born in China) and James Fong, age 24, of Quincy. These would be the first Chinese patrolmen in Boston.

The Boston Globe, September 14, 1975, provided a snapshot of the restaurants in Chinatown. “Chinese restaurants are countless: In Boston’s Chinatown the House of Roy is favored by students; doctors and businessmen like Yee Hung Guey; China Pearl is a mainstay; Carl’s Pagoda does some exciting Cantonese dishes; Bo Shek is cafeteria-like, the Golden Gate a step above in method. The Shanghai does mandarin and Szechwan cooking, this far the only one of its type in Chinatown. Kim Toy is open all night.

The first two months of 1976 would bring additional gambling raids in Chinatown. The Boston Herald American, January 20, 1976, reported on a raid at a club on Beach Street, where 17 Chinese were arrested, In addition, the police seized $4000, Chinese dominos, dice and ivory cubes. The Boston Herald American, February 28, 1976 and the Boston Globe, February 28, 1976, reported that 26 Chinese had been arrested on gambling charges at raids at two Tyler Street clubs. The police seized $6,000 and various gambling devices. 

The number of Chinese restaurants! The Boston Globe, January 21, 1976, noted that there were 400 Chinese restaurants in a 15 mile radius of Chinatown. That's quite a large number for a relatively small region, indicating the huge popularity of Chinese cuisine. It was then hypothesized that these restaurants spent about 10% of their food purchases on bean sprouts! The article then went into detail about three local bean-sprout growers.

Interestingly, the Boston Herald American, July 15, 1976, stated that in 1975, 88 Chinese cookbooks were in print in the U.S., compared with only 8 that were published in 1966. In addition, in 1966, no Japanese cooks books had been published, but now 25 were in print. The 1970s had definitely seen a boom in the interest of Chinese and Japanese cuisine, and home cooks were learning how to prepare it at home.  

There was a lengthy article about Chinatown in the Boston Herald American, July 19, 1976. It began with, “Boston’s Chinatown is a pleasant puzzle—more easily enjoyed than fully understood.” It then continued, “Chinatown is aloof, but friendly; poor in some respects, but very rich; problem prone, but strong with resolution; changing steadily, but in essence remaining the same.” And then it was noted, “If there is one solid conclusion you can make about Chinatown, it is this: It will remain here as long as there is a city of Boston. The Chinese with us will see to that.” 

The article also mentioned that “The pains and prejudice the Chinese have endured here for more than a century are hidden to the outsider. He is there to enjoy himself, not to ponder the hard life many adult Chinese still live." The population of Chinatown was said to be about 2800, making it the 4th largest Chinatown in the U.S. There were also about 15,0000 Chinese all across in Boston, with another 5,000 in the rest of Massachusetts and 22,000 more in the rest of New England. In 1900, Chinatown had a population of only about 500, and by 1920, it had doubled to 1000. So, 55 years later, the population in Chinatown had only tripled. 

The article also mentioned the alleged origin of Chinatown. "The first Chinese residents in Boston arrived in 1875. The origin of the present Chinatown was a ‘tent city’ on Ping On st. The Chinese were employed as construction workers on the telephone exchange on Pearl st.” Finally, the article noted that there were about 300 Chinese restaurants in New England, and that 75% of Chinatown residents spoke little to no English, making life more difficult for them.

The Boston Globe, August 23, 1976, reported that Officer Arthur “Red” McDonald, age 33, an off duty State Police officer went to aid a Quincy man who was being attacked by a group of youths. McDonald was then attacked, stabbed and beaten, and he suffered head and body stab wounds. The group consisted of about 10 youths, ages 18-20, who wielded using knives, razors, clubs and “king fu” (sic) sticks. McDonald was treated and released from the hospital. 

The Boston Globe, October 11, 1976, printed an ad for Szechuan Garden, at 21 Harrison Avenue, offering a special that week for a second free lunch with every combination special ordered. Plus, you received a free drink with every dinner.  

The Jewish Advocate, December 9, 1976, published an ad for The Great Wall, at 152 Bowdoin Street, Beacon Hill, noting it was “A Chinese Restaurant Above the Common.”

Starting off the year, the Boston Globe, January 20, 1977, presented the favorite restaurants of their food critic, Anthony Spinazzola. As for Chinese restaurants, Anthony had awarded 4 stars to Peking on Fresh Pond, Peking Gardens in Lexington, and Shanghai in Chinatown. He also awarded 3 stars to Colleen’s in Cambridge and Carl’s Pagoda in Chinatown.  

The Boston Herald American, January 28, 1976, reported that Bob Lee’s Islander in Chinatown had been closed by state health inspectors until a hearing was held. Alleged violations included dirty paint, hairs in the food, open insect spray, moat with slime in it, dirty dishes and roaches.  

The Boston Globe, February 3, 1977, provided a lengthy and informative article, by Anthony Spinnazola, about Chinese cuisine. He began, "Chinese cuisine deserves top rank among the world's cooking because it is versatile, offers variety beyond others and yet retains the identity of the basic materiel used." The article then discusses the basics of Chinese cookery, explains the meaning of certain dishes, what to order at a Cantonese restaurant, and more.

Sad news. The Boston Herald American, February 8, 1977, reported that Hong Wong, Chinatown’s oldest citizen died, died at 106 years old. He came to Boston in 1890 from Los Angeles, and retired from the laundry business in 1930. He was survived by 2 sons, Loy and Warren, owners of the Chong Lung Grocery on Hudson Street, and several grandchildren. 

Bob's Islander strikes back! The Boston Herald American, February 9, 1977, noted that Bob Lee’s Islander would sue the Board of Health, claiming that because of the health violations, business had dropped 95% and Lee stated his reputation had been ruined. Lee “charged he was being discriminated against because of his Chinese ancestry and his civil rights have been violated.” He also claimed the Board had made announcements to the media before giving him a warning or the time to make any changes. Lee was able to re-open once he made the necessary changes. His attorney alleged that Lee was the victim of a power struggle between state health inspectors and Boston ones, and that the state inspectors had thought the Boston ones were too lenient. 

Peking Duck. So delicious. The Boston Globe, February 16, 1977, published a lengthy article about Chinese New Year's Eve and Peking Duck. The article initially mentioned that Peking Duck was a popular dish for special occasions, and then noted how it was traditionally served. After the duck was cooked, the crispy skin was removed and cut into small rectangles, and then the meat was similarly cooked. Then a Mandarin pancake is brushed with a dipping sauce, and the skin, meat and a scallion are placed atop the pancake, which is then wrapped up. 

Cooking Peking Duck is a lengthy and laborious process, so most only order it at restaurants. However, the article provided an easier recipe, from the National Duckling Council, so you could make something similar at home. There were also recipes to make Mandarin Pancakes, Plum Sauce, Hot Mustard Sauce, and Green Onion Brushes.

The Boston Globe, June 16, 1977, had an ad for Bogarts, “Boston’s Newest Chinese Restaurant,” located at 74 State Street. 

The Boston Herald American, July 1, 1977, provided a restaurant review of The Great Wall, providing it 2 stars, which means it is "Good." The restaurant is owned by Sally Wong, and offers Canton, Hunan and Szechuan cuisine. The reviewer stated the menu was typical with many standard dishes. The Shark’s Fin Soup was “uncommonly good and superbly endowed with delicate chicken slivers, fresh crunchy vegetables, and an abundance of whipped eggs.” The appetizers weren’t exciting, and the pupu platter ones were overcooked and slightly underseasoned. However, the main dishes were much better.  

The Boston Globe, September 1, 1977, also provided their own review of The Great Wall of China restaurant, at 152 Bowdoin Street, and they awarded it 3 Stars. The restaurant was located at the site of the former Hotel Bellevue, which had been built in 1899, and the restaurant had been there for 10 month. The review stated, “the Great Wall does a creditable job” and that “The menu is moderately priced, there are the usual appetizers, pu-pu platter and Polynesian drinks, as well as egg foo yong, chow mein, beef, chicken and seafood in traditional ways.” The review continued, “The Great Wall has several less common desserts (fried banana and fried apple) and one which it claims uniquely—fried ice cream. This is a scoop of vanilla ice cream dipped into an egg-like batter and deep fried in a few moments. The ball…. is then topped with chocolate sauce. For lovers of hot fudge sundaes, it's a good choice.” 

********************

Gangs return! The Boston Herald American, July 22, 1977, reported that members of the Ghost Shadow, a New York City based Chinese youth gang had returned to Boston, attempting to extort local Chinese merchants and engaging in drug sales. However, none of the merchants reported any extortion attempts. The gang had allegedly been in Boston for about 2 months. It possessed about 200 members, male and female, aged 17-21. It had been formed about 5 years ago from members of other gangs who were disenchanted with their old groups. 

The Boston Herald American, December 4, 1977, also published an article on the Ghost Shadows, noting there were about 40 currently in Chinatown. The Ghost Shadows had become the #1 gang in New York City about two years ago. It was also mentioned that white prostitutes in Chinatown had to pay the gang a fee of $20 a night. 

*******************
We've already seen Chinese become policeman this decade, and now maybe firefighters too. The Boston Globe, October 7, 1977, noted that, “For the first time in history, a Chinese-American has a chance of becoming a Boston firefighter. Six Cantonese-speaking candidates are expected to make the civil service list for hiring sometime in November,…”; It was also mentioned, “They made the list after intensive lobbying by Boston’s Chinese community,...

The origins of the famed Chinatown Gate! The Boston Globe, October 30, 1977, reported on a proposal for a Chinese Gate by John Sloan, a BRA architect who was now the Director of BRA’s Design Section. This new Gate would span Beach Street where it terminates at Atlantic Avenue “creating an emblem and a gateway for Boston’s Chinese community.” Currently, the Gate was contained in 88 crates, and “Each crate is filled with small parts—there are eight boxes of lion parts alone—and the whole thing goes together like a Chinese puzzle, so to speak.” 

It was noted that, “The Gate is a gift from the Republic of China (i.e. Taiwan) to the Chinese Consolidated Benevolent Association of New England. The gift came because Sloan, five years ago, included a drawing of such a gate in a planning document for Chinatown. Leaders of the Chinese community liked it and the donation was the result.” It was also stated that the Chinese Benevolent Association was paying the storage fee for the crates. However, it was noted, “But how to pay for getting it out, assembled, and up?”; Sloan was seeking some money from the bequest of Edward Ingersoll Brown of $610,000, and awaiting the Browne Fund executors for their decision. 

More info. The Boston Globe, November 20, 1977, published a letter from Robert Walsh, Director of Boston Redevelopment Authority. He stated that the idea for a gateway came from the Chinese community, not a staff member of the BRA. The letter added, “The gate will serve as a symbol of the cultural heritage shared by the Chinese community. The gateway will not only strengthen the identity of the Chinese community, but also serve as an interesting addition to the physical environment of downtown Boston.” 

More gambling in Chinatown. The Boston Herald American, November 8, 1977, reported that Charlie Chin and Joe S. Cho, both of Boston, were charged with bribery and conspiracy to commit bribery. They had allegedly offered a bribe to an undercover cop to allow them to operate a $10,000 per week gambling casino on Tyler Street. It was claimed that in July, the two men gave the undercover officer $8800. The casino employed 21 persons and was open 16 hours a day. The police eventually raided it, arrested two people working there, and released 15 people who were present. These arrests came on the “first anniversary of the Special Investigation Unit of the Boston Police Department’s probe into corruption and gambling in Chinatown.” 

There was additional information in the Boston Herald American, November 9, 1977. Joe Cho, age 42, was the operator of a West Roxbury restaurant and Charlie Chin, age 36, lived in the South End. They were both released on $25,000 bail. Victor Lee, age 26, and his brother Sun Quien Lee, age 31, both of Brookline, were dealers at the casino.

The Evening Gazette, December 27, 1977, discussed Wong Soon, a family owned and operated noodle business. The owner was Daniel Wong and his father started the business 50 years ago in a small factory on Tyler Street. They produced fresh egg noodles, roll wrappers, won tons, and deep fried noodles. Their factory was now in Dorchester and the old factory in Chinatown was their distribution center. They operated 9 noodle machines and noted, “Humidity is a noodle’s worst enemy.

The Boston Herald American, January 22, 1978, began the New Year recommending some Chinatown spots. “If you want a gourmet meal for a reasonable price, head down to Chinatown and places like Nadia’s Eastern Star Restaurant (280 Shawmut Ave.), Moon Villa (23 Edinboro St.), or the Seventy Restaurant (70 Beach St.)."

The Boston Herald American, February 9, 1978, reported, “The vinyl roof of the South Cove YMCA in Chinatown collapsed under heavy snow yesterday afternoon. The YMCA is Chinatown’s only full-time recreational facility.” 

A document from the Office of the Mayor, Little City Hall, and dated March 1, 1978, provided a fascinating snapshot of the businesses, services, in more in Chinatown. It listed 23 restaurants in Chinatown, including: Bo Shek, 63 Beach St.; Bob Lee’s Island, 20 Tyler St.; Carl’s Pagoda, 23 Tyler St.; China Pavilion, 14 Hudson St.; China Pearl, 9 Tyler St.; Four Seas, 4 Tyler St.; Fung Wong, 8 Tyler St.; Golden Gate, 66 Beach St.; Good Earth, 5 Tyler St.; House of Toy, 8 Hudson St.; House of Roy, 25 Tyler St.; Ho Yuen Ting, 13A Hudson St.; Henry’s Restaurant, 52 Beach St.; Kim Toy, 2 Tyler St.; King Wah, 25 Beach St.; Moon Villa, 23 Edinboro St.; Munch Brunch, 262 Harrison Ave.; Pak Nin, 84-86 Harrison Ave.; Ying Ying, 58 Beach St.; Seventy Restaurant, 70 Beach St.; Shanghai, 21 Hudson St.; Tai Tung, 227 Harrison Ave.; and Yee Hong Guy, 34 Oxford St.  

In addition, the document noted there were 3 Chinese Pastry Shops, including: Fong On Co., 9 Hudson St.; Ho Yuen Bakery, 54 Beach St.; and May Lee Ice Cream Parlor, 26 Oxford St. There were also 2 Noodle Shops, including: Ho Toy Noodle Shop, 19 Edinboro St. and Wong Soon Noodle Shop, 15 Hudson St. Plus, there were 3 Bean Sprout/Bean Curd Shops, including: Jing Kee Bean Sprouts, 223 Harrison Ave,; Quong Lung Co., 77A Tyler St.; and Cheng Yah Wong’s Bean Curd, 83 Tyler St.

The Boston Globe, March 23, 1978, mentioned that the Boston City Council had listened to testimony from 5 neighborhood agencies seeking Community Development Block Grants. The Chinatown representatives sought grants for youth and elderly programs. “A representative of Chinatown’s YES program said she is concerned with juvenile delinquency in the neighborhood. The YES program provides services that ‘ might keep Chinese youth from becoming a danger and a burden.

The Boston Herald American, April 4, 1978, printed an article about the Josiah Quincy Community School, “a space-age school fulfilling the same mission as village temples 1000 years ago in China—education, medical care and settlement of political disputes all under one roof,…” It was also stated, “It is the only Boston school to house a Little City Hall, health center, elementary school and community (after school) program.” The school, located at Marginal Way and Washington Streets, was opened in 1976 and had replaced America’s oldest multi-class elementary school, the old Quincy built in 1847.  

The article also discussed the South Cove Community Health Care Center, where residents could now see 18 doctors at low cost. Before 1971, there hadn't been a doctor who spoke Chinese in Chinatown. The Health center now averages 32,000 visits a year, each costing $7 a visit, and all the doctors on staff are bilingual.  

The Boston Globe, April 6, 1978, mentioned that Chinatown had many restaurants open after midnight, too many to include all of them in their article. However, they did note some of the places, including Kim Toy Lunch (2 Tyler St., open 24 hours), China Pearl (9 Tyler St., till 2am), Seventy Restaurant (70 Beach St., 4am), Carl’s Pagoda (23 Tyler St., until midnight), The Four Seas (4 Tyler St., 4am), and House of Roy (25 Tyler St., midnight).  

A stabbing. The Boston Herald American, April 29, 1978, reported that three men from the North End were charged with stabbing two men in a restaurant on Beach Street in Chinatown. Gerlad Scaproatti (age 26), Paul Lanni (age 29), and John Pottore (age 29), were arrested for Assault & Battery with a dangerous weapon. The victims included Gregory Kasabian (age 21), of Waltham, who was stabbed 5 times in the stomach but was currently in stable condition, and John McBrien, of Roslindale, who was stabbed once in the right side, but was also stable.  

The Boston Herald American, April 29, 1978, published an article about William Leong (age 32), the founder and director of the Chinese Economic Development Council. William, educated at Boston University, spent 4 years training himself and reeducating Chinatown’s business leaders “to survival tactics in Boston-style politics.” On July 1, his Council became a federal Community Development Corporation, able to tap a multi-million dollar pool to build housing, shops, training programs, and social services. Leong now has a strong bargaining position against developers who might try to reduce Chinatown. However, there are some critics who believe that that the Council is too elite.

A shooting in Chinatown. The Boston Globe, June 2, 1978, reported that Robert Aiguier, a 32 year old from Quincy, was shot in a leg in altercation in the foyer of a Tyler Street Chinatown restaurant at 3:30am. The assailant also fired 2 shots at witnesses, who gave chase, but missed hitting any of them. The police are investigating.  

The Boston Globe, June 8, 1978, provided a review of Ho Yuen Ting, located at 13A Hudson Street, and gave it 2 Stars. The restaurant had existed for about 30 years, and had been originally operated by the grandfather of the present owners, 5 brothers of the Moi family. The brothers took over the restaurant two years ago, and improved the menu and appearance of the small basement eating place. “Today it might be called the McDonald’s of Chinatown—it attracts a sizeable number of the area’s teenagers.” It has about 40 seats and is “usually crowded with non-Chinese of all ages.” 

It primarily serves Cantonese dishes and the food is cooked to order. The house specialty is conch, but it also serves “less seldom-seen specialties: snails, really periwinkles, stir fried in black bean sauce; Hon Sue duck’s feet and several variations of the Eight Delights recipe—chicken gizzards and livers, shrimp, fish maw, roast pork, ginger, dried mushrooms and squid.” The restaurant does not sell liquor.

The Boston Globe, June 26, 1978, published an article that highlighted the Ho Toy Noodle Co., Inc. Jeffrey Wong (age 34) was the head of the company and had started the business in an old textile shop on Edinboro Street in 1971. The name of the company means “good luck.” Currently, the business has 13 employees, and they produce 100,000 fortune cookies a week, 13,000 pounds of egg rolls, 400 pounds of wonton skins, and 20,500 pounds of noodles. Last year, they did $450,000 in sales, selling to 200 Chinese restaurants, grocery stores and supermarkets in New England, as well as New York, Ohio and South Carolina. 

Wong was born in Canton, China, and at age 10, worked in Wong Soon, his grandmother’s noodle and cookie company. Wong eventually left that company because he wanted his own operation. A couple of his employees have a similar mindset, and will open their own company around the corner on Lincoln Street in a few weeks. 

The article also described the process of making fortune cookies, which were produced by a machine but the fortunes are placed inside by hand. “Two workers sit at the machine, which takes in liquid dough and turns out round flat baked pieces that look like small pancakes. Workers wearing thick gloves pick the pieces off of a rotating skillet-like surface, place the paper fortune in the center and fold the cookies around it. In 10 seconds the cookie hardens.” It continued, “And where do the fortunes come from? Shuck K. Yee, a retired mechanical engineer in Oakland, California, prints up about 4 million a month and mails them all over the United States.” It was then mentioned, “Yee doesn’t write them himself. He bought his stock of about 250 fortunes from Tom’s Bakery in Oakland and has them reprinted over and over again. He said he doesn’t know where the bakery got them. Yee is also the inventor of the completely automatic fortune cookie machine, which he has sold to several companies around the country and which Ho Toy plans to start using shortly.”

Shootings! The Boston Herald American, July 17, 1978, reported that bullets had been fired at a car owned by Joseph Chin (age 27), the manager of the Munch Brunch restaurant at 262 Harrison Avenue in Chinatown. Joseph was not hurt, and mentioned that he had an argument with some youths prior to the shooting. The Boston Herald American, September 29, 1978, reported that there had been a shooting at the Munch Brunch. Five youths, alleged members of the Ghost Shadows, were arrested and one was in possession of a .38 revolver, but police claimed that no shots had been fired. Could these incidents be related to attempted extortion of the merchant? 

The Boston Herald American, October 12, 1978, reported that $275,000 had been appropriated to erect the Ceremonial Gateway, as well as for seats, landscaping and tree planting at that location. 

The Boston Globe, October 19, 1978, in an article titled, Dining Out Without Going Broke,  it was noted, “Chinese restaurants still generally offer the best buys in town, especially when four or more are eating.” It continued, “Chinese—Places are quite comparable, but the smaller the place, the cheaper the price. Bo Shek and Golden Gate are especially reasonable in Chinatown.”

The Boston Globe, November 27, 1978, reported that Thomas St. John, a Boston motorcycle cop, was shot in the left leg on Kingston Street in Chinatown while getting off his bike to approach a car he stopped. The shooter was still on the loose although later editions indicated that 3 suspects were in custody and being questioned. 

The Boston Herald American, November 28, 1978, mentioned that the Chinese community needed about an additional 1100 units of housing, In the past twenty years, the Chinese population had doubled but the community also lost 1200-1500 units of housing because of property taken by the city for the Massachusetts Turnpike, Southeast Expressway and Tufts expansion programs.

The Boston Globe, January 7, 1979, provided more information about the Josiah Quincy Community School, which was more of a community center than just a school. The Center is “topped off with a bright red and yellow mural of drawings done by school children. Red, the Chinese ‘luck’ color, is much used in the building décor. The fortress shape of the building seems no accident. It perfectly reflects the resolute attitude of the young professionals working inside.” The Center includes a public elementary school, K-5, and is staffed by Chinese. It also includes three independent and compatible service organizations: Little City Hall, a Community council which runs a range of civic, educational and cultural activities, and the South Cove Community Health Center.

The article noted that the best estimate for the number of Chinese in Boston was about 15,000, with 4000 in the South End and 4000 in Alston-Brighton. Most were Cantonese or from Hong Kong, although the population also included northern Chinese and ethnic Chinese from Burma and Vietnam. 
The Center catered to all Chinese in eastern Massachusetts and New England. At the center, you could take Cantonese cooking classes, run by Ester Ang, more as a survival skill rather than as a hobby. “Whatever the origin, Chinese food takes no time to cook—once you’ve done the preparation. It is perhaps the world’s most labor intensive cuisine.” It continued, “Like many young American, many young Chinese don’t know how to cook. Even those who come here knowing the basics have to learn to cope with American equipment and products.” Esther Ang also stated, “Another purpose of the cooking class is for them to make friends. If they can make friends they will have someone to telephone, to talk to, when they are lonely or need help.” 

It was also noted, “The babysitter is not part of the Chinese culture.” Thus, the Center taught babysitting courses and even had a day care center. The public school occupied the top 3 floors, and the student population included 300 Chinese, 180 blacks, 150 whites, and 20 Hispanics. 

Few of the Center’s 800 members spoke much English. 10 years ago, this type of community center would not have been established as it “…it was unheard of for the Chinese community to go outside for help—either from pride or ignorance.” As I previously noted, the 1970s saw much changes in the Chinatown community, a greater openness to seek help, especially spurned on by the younger generation. 

The Boston Herald American, February 18, 1979, noted that Weggie’s Pub, at 163 Lincoln Street, in Chinatown, would open at the end of March, owned by Chinese restaurateur Reginald Wong. Wong owns a restaurant supply business and at least 3 restaurants, including the ’70, The Ming Tree in Quincy Market, and The Jade Fountain in Marlboro. Weggie’s will have a Chinese disco, with Chinese disc jockey Matthew Wong (of WBCN) taking care of the music. The restaurant will serve Peking Duck and barbecued spareribs, and will also offer liquor.  

The Boston Globe, April 2, 1979, printed a lengthy article on Chinatown, noting how in the last ten years, Chinatown has been more vocal about their needs. “The Chinese are traditionally modest; we have kept our problems to ourselves. But now the younger generation is saying it’s not so bad to ask for help.” However, there are issues as “Not everyone agrees on priorities. Some emphasize housing and employment; others believe English-as-a-Second-Language programs are essential. Sometimes agency programs overlap and agencies compete with each other for limited government funds.” Despite these differences, “Nevertheless, the mood in Chinatown is one of cautious optimism.”

It was stated that Chinatown had a population of about 5000. Many of the men work 60 hours a week in restaurants or laundries while the women often work as stitchers in garment factories. It was also said that many children rarely see their fathers, which contributes to rising rates of juvenile delinquency and a widening generation gap. “These days residents of Chinatown will not quietly accept any fate which threaten the disintegration of their neighborhood.”

Dim Sum! The Boston Herald American, April 4, 1979, ran an article on Dim Sum. It was noted that King Wah, at 29 Beach Street, served Cantonese dim sum and was “offering one of the largest varieties in the area of dim sum delights and a favorite among local residents.” The Seventy Restaurant, at 70 Beach Street also offered Cantonese dim sum. The Peking Garden, at 27 Waltham Street in Lexington, served Mandarin dim sum.  All 3 restaurants offer dim sum pastries for take out. The Ho Yuen Bakery, at 54 Beach Street, also had a limited variety of dim sum pastries.  

Chinatown Gate. The Boston Globe, June 3, 1979, mentioned the will of Edward Ingersoll Browne, which was made in 1901, but that funds had only recently become available. Those funds were going to six different projects so far, including the Chinatown Gate. Construction of the Gate was going to be to be started in 1979 at a cost of $275,000. 

The Boston Herald American, July 15, 1979, discussed some of the current problems in Chinatown. The article mentioned, “Supervision of grown children in Chinatown is a problem. Parents can’t exert the strict discipline they once did over their children.” It continued, “In more than half of the families,…, the mothers work all day chiefly in garment factories.” In addition, “As many as 80 percent of the fathers in Chinatown work through the night in Chinese restaurants—about the only jobs they can get.” It was also noted, “There is also a lot of depression among teenagers. There is anger towards the system and failure at school because language is so important and they have difficulty with English.”; 

More children were coming to Chinatown each year. “It is estimated that 800 to 900 people a year, most of them 18 or under, arrive from Hong Kong and the People’s Republic of China. They are trying to build a new life in overpopulated Chinatown where underemployment is the biggest headache of all.” It was also mentioned that “Crime is a problem in Chinatown.” However, “little crime in Chinatown is even reported to the police.” Fortunately, “There are eight Chinese police officers in the department,…, and they are very knowledgeable about what goes on.” 

Another threat to Chinatown from developers. The Boston Herald American, July 18, 1979, reported that Tufts University was buying four tenement buildings on the corner of Harrison Avenue and Harvard Street in Chinatown. Tufts planned to build a Health Science Education Building on the site. However, members of the Chinatown community were going to the Boston Housing Court to fight landlord over the evictions, which they say violate Boston’s Rent Control Laws. It was also estimated that 78% of housing in Chinatown was overcrowded, and that 72% is either deteriorated or dilapidated. The Boston Herald American, July 20, 1979, noted that the evictions were put on hold until lawyers could submit post-trial memoranda.  

The Boston Herald American, August 4, 1979, had a brief bit about the Hing Noodle Company, located on Lincoln Street near Chinatown. Lawrence Wong (age 28), creates 400 pounds of noodles each day "marketed for chow mein fans."

The Boston Globe, September 13, 1979, presented a review of The Beansprout in Medford, giving it 3-Stars. The location had once been Peking on the Mystic and then Wau Pei. The chef is Taiwanese and "has a nice hand." It was also noted, "Sauces are generally light and sauve." They also offer Szechuan dishes. It was also mentioned, "Desserts are limited, but fried ice cream---a large scoop of vanilla ice cream with ground almonds topped with a thin chocolate sauce and canned whipped cream--will appeal to some.” 

Various Chinese cuisines. The Boston Globe, October 18, 1979, provided an article about How To Read A Menu, covering various cuisines. One section dealt with Chinese cuisine, noting there were three main regional types in the Boston area: Cantonese, Mandarin and Szechuan. Cantonese cuisine was the most common, and popular, and was available at places including: China Pearl (Chinatown), Harry Mok's Four Seas (Chinatown), Kowloon, Bali Hai, Yem Mee, and Braintree Five Corners. "It is served in every restaurant in Chinatown almost without exception,..."

There were then descriptions of Mandarin and Szechuan cuisines, noting some of their iconic dishes. Next, the article provided a variety of Chinese terms, and their meanings, which might find on restaurant menus. Plus, there were explanations of some of the most common dishes, from chop suey to chow yoke. 

Housing issues once again. The Boston Globe, December 5, 1979, reported that a developer was planning to construct the first condominiums in Chinatown. The site was two abandoned buildings the developer, Louis Hadaya, had previously purchased for $30,000. The project would entail 10 condominiums at 74-76 Tyler Street, although Hadaya has claimed he might end up making apartments instead. The Chinatown community generally opposed the idea of condominiums, feeling that Chinese couldn't afford to purchase them. Louis Scrima, executive director of the Chinese American Civic Association, stated, "This (Chinatown) is really the last piece of undeveloped land in the downtown area, and building prices are already rising pretty rapidly." It was also noted that "Chinatown suffers from some of the worst overcrowding and housing shortages of any neighborhood in Boston,.."

The Chinatown Gateway. The Boston Herald American, December 21, 1979, ran an article about the Chinatown Gate, and all the problems that had prevented its construction so far. Five years ago, Taiwan sent 55 crates of green ceramic tiles to Boston for the Gate. They were still sitting in a warehouse in South Boston. The city only had to pay for construction costs, about $100,000, but the Boston Redevelopment Authority had greater plans, including sprucing up a playground into a park with trees and benches. During the past five years, plans have been caught up in red tape and bureaucratic snafus. If the Gate was constructed, it would be about 40 feet all and 29 feet wide. There was some hope that it might be completed in 1980. 

*********************

To Be Continued....