Friday, April 29, 2022

New Sampan Article: Yung Wing & the Earliest Chinese Students in Massachusetts

"The most interesting feature of Chinese life to me was that on board their boats, or sampans, as they are called....Upon these boats live whole families of three and even four generations.
"
--The Fall River Daily Herald, November 20, 1888

For about two yearsr, I've been contributing to Sampan, the only bilingual Chinese-English newspaper in New England. It's published in print as well as online, available in both Chinese and English. I've previously written over 40 articles for Sampan, and you can find links here

My newest article, Yung Wing & the Earliest Chinese Students in Massachusetts, is now available in the new issue of Sampan. Springfield was one of the first cities in Massachusetts where Chinese arrived in the 1840s, primarily fueled by the desire for education. In 1847, three Chinese boys, 12 to 15 years old, with him, named Wong Shing, Yung Wing, and Wong Fun (also known as Wong Afeen), came to Springfield for education and they were the first Chinese boys ever allowed to study abroad. One of those students, Yung Wing, would go on to assist other Chinese students obtain an education in the area. Check out my article for the full inspiring story on Yung Wing.. 

What is a "sampan?" The newspaper's site states, "A sampan is a popular river boat in traditional China. This small but useful vessel, by transporting cargo from large boats to the village ports, creates a channel of communication among villages." And like that type of boat, Sampan delivers news and information all across New England, and "acts a bridge between Asian American community organizations and individuals in the Greater Boston area."

Sampan, which was founded in 1972, is published by the nonprofit Asian American Civic Association, "The newspaper covers topics that are usually overlooked by the mainstream press, such as key immigration legislation, civil rights, housing, education, day-care services and union activities. These issues are crucial to the well-being of Asian immigrants, refugees, low-income families as well as individuals who are not proficient in the English language."

There is plenty of interest in Sampan which will appeal to all types of readers, from restaurant reviews to historical articles, from vital news stories to travel items. In these current days when racism and prejudice against Asians and their restaurants is high, it's more important than ever that accurate information about the Asian community is disseminated and promoted. We need to combat the irrational prejudices that some possess, and support our Asian communities just as we would support any other element of our overall community. We are all important aspects of a whole, and we need to stand together.

Support Sampan!

Thursday, April 28, 2022

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) Due to the complications of the Covid pandemic these last couple of years, New England’s Outdoor Living and Culinary ShowUtopia – is postponed until early November 2022. Utopia’s partners at Massachusetts Horticultural Society (MHS) are hosting a slimmed-down version of Utopia, appropriately-titled Micro-Topia, at the Garden at Elm Bank on Friday, May 6th and Saturday, May 7th, from 10am-8pm each day. 

There will be cooking demonstrations with Chef Evan Hennessy along with Brian Poe of TipTap Room, Crane River Cheese Clube and Parish Café. There will also be food trucks scattered throughout the premises, a book signing from local mixology influencer and cocktail blogger, Katie Stryjewski of @Garnish_Girl fame, and dozens of vendors showcasing their locally-crafted goods which will be available for sale that day. MHS experts will also conduct gardening classes over the two days, and two tiny houses will be on display in the Garden at Elm Bank courtesy of TinyHouse.com.

Where: The Garden at Elm Bank, 900 Washington Street, Wellesley, MA 02482
More Info: Tickets are $20 for each day and can be purchased at https://www.utopiaseaport.com/ Children under 12 are free.

2) Somerville’s neighborhood watering hole, R.F. O’Sullivan & Son, is celebrating its return by debuting the “Early BURG Special” for the month of May. Available weekdays from 4-6pm, the “Early BURG Special” prices each of R.F.’s nine signature burgers at just $10 each, a savings of $4-$6 on each burger. 

The hand-formed patties – seasoned and grilled – cover more classic preparations like The Celtic with lettuce, tomato, onion, bacon, pickles and American cheese; BBQ with bacon, onion rings, pickles, bourbon BBQ and cheddar; Bloody Mary with tomato, onion, bacon and sriracha; The Pub with lettuce, onion, tomato and mayo; and Mushroom & Swiss with horseradish pepper sauce. 

Twists on the basic burger are seen in The Greek with lettuce, tomato, onion, tzatziki, roasted red pepper and feta; Don’t Poke the Bear with bacon, maple bacon glaze, fried egg and cheddar; Bacon & Blue with crumbled blue cheese, lettuce, tomato and mayo; and The Impossible, a plant-based patty topped with lettuce, tomato, onion and pickle.

Tuesday, April 26, 2022

New Sampan Article: Origins of the St. Paul Sandwich

(This photo of a St. Paul sandwich is courtesy of Mark, aka GastroPublico)

"The most interesting feature of Chinese life to me was that on board their boats, or sampans, as they are called....Upon these boats live whole families of three and even four generations."
--The Fall River Daily Herald, November 20, 1888

For about two yearsr, I've been contributing to Sampan, the only bilingual Chinese-English newspaper in New England. It's published in print as well as online, available in both Chinese and English. I've previously written over 40 articles for Sampan, and you can find links here

My newest article, Origins of the St. Paul Sandwich, is now available in the new issue of Sampan. A St. Paul sandwich is basically "... an egg foo young patty, slice of tomato, pickle and iceberg lettuce sandwiched between two slices of mayonnaise-laden white bread...” The origins of this sandwich are murky, but the most commonly shared legend is that it was invented by Steven Yuen at Park Chop Suey in St. Louis, possibly in the 1970s. It’s further alleged that Yuen named the sandwich after his hometown of St. Paul, Minnesota. However, is this legend true, and if so, is there proof? Check out my article for the answers. 

What is a "sampan?" The newspaper's site states, "A sampan is a popular river boat in traditional China. This small but useful vessel, by transporting cargo from large boats to the village ports, creates a channel of communication among villages." And like that type of boat, Sampan delivers news and information all across New England, and "acts a bridge between Asian American community organizations and individuals in the Greater Boston area."

Sampan, which was founded in 1972, is published by the nonprofit Asian American Civic Association, "The newspaper covers topics that are usually overlooked by the mainstream press, such as key immigration legislation, civil rights, housing, education, day-care services and union activities. These issues are crucial to the well-being of Asian immigrants, refugees, low-income families as well as individuals who are not proficient in the English language."

There is plenty of interest in Sampan which will appeal to all types of readers, from restaurant reviews to historical articles, from vital news stories to travel items. In these current days when racism and prejudice against Asians and their restaurants is high, it's more important than ever that accurate information about the Asian community is disseminated and promoted. We need to combat the irrational prejudices that some possess, and support our Asian communities just as we would support any other element of our overall community. We are all important aspects of a whole, and we need to stand together.

Support Sampan!

Monday, April 25, 2022

Rant: We Need More French Toast Sandwiches!

The delectable Monte Cristo Sandwich

It's essentially ham, turkey and Swiss cheese between two pieces of French toast, though there are plenty of regional variations across the country. For example, the cheese might be different, the sandwich might be grilled or fried, it may contain spicy mustard, could be covered in powdered sugar, and so on. There might even be a side of jelly with your sandwich.

No one seems to know the exact origins of the Monte Cristo though it's believed to be a variation of the French croque-monsieur, which is basically a grilled ham and cheese sandwich that was invented around 1910. The earliest newspaper mentions I found for the Monte Cristo were from the 1920s, and nearly all in California, which might be where the name was coined, although no one knows the origin of that name, and if it truly is related to the Count of Monte Cristo

The first reference to the sandwich was in a California paper from May 1924, which provided a recipe that called for "American full cream cheese" and boiled ham. There was a single reference in the 1920s from another state, and that was Hawaii. The first recipe I found calling for more than ham and cheese was from a 1937 California newspaper, that stated to add  "white meat," such as chicken, turkey, lamb or pork. There's even a National Monte Cristo Day, celebrated on September 22, which was established back in 2015.

For me, and many others, maybe the most compelling element of this sandwich is the use of French toast. What a wonderful and delicious vehicle for the meat and cheese. The eggy texture and flavors of the French toast elevate this sandwich. Without the French toast, this would be a rather boring ham, turkey and cheese sandwich. 

So why aren't there more sandwiches which use French toast? It's extremely rare to find any other sandwich made with French toast and that's plain wrong. It needs to change and offers an excellent opportunity for an adventurous restaurant to blaze a pioneering path to the future of sandwiches. Who will step forward and offer diners unique, scrumptious French toast sandwiches?

French toast would seem a great choice for breakfast sandwiches, but that's an easy choice. Why not a burger on French toast? Many people enjoy eggs on burgers so why not make an eggy bread for it? Or maybe a steak and cheese sandwich? Meatballs? Chicken parm? The possibilities are endless and worthy of experimentation. Home cooks can also try variations in their own kitchens. 

We need more French toast sandwiches!!!

Do you know of any restaurants that make more unique French toast sandwiches?

Tuesday, April 19, 2022

Dr. Dane's Vietnamese Lemongrass Chili Sauce: Tasty, Versatile & Hot!

Sa Tế is a traditional Vietnamese Lemongrass Chili Sauce, and in the Vietnamese city of Huế, they are well known for their use of strong flavors with chiles, fermented shrimp paste, and various sauces. Recently, I've been using a new Vietnamese Lemongrass Chili Sauce as a condiment and ingredient for a variety of dishes. It's tasty, versatile, hot and full of flavor. 

I received media samples of Dr. Dane’s Kitchen Vietnamese Lemongrass Chili Sauce, including their Vegan version. These sauces were created by Dr. Dane Hoang, a pediatric dentist in Texas, a first-generation immigrant who learned to prepared Vietnamese cuisine in her mother's kitchen. Working with her daughter Isabella, Dr. Hoang has produced a line of Vietnamese dipping sauces and chili sauces. 

The first chili sauce is the Vietnamese Lemongrass Chili Sauce (8 oz/$15), a Huế-style Mắm Ruốc Ớt Sã Sa Tế, which is made with chopped garlic, lemongrass, chili flakes, salted shrimp paste and Thai chili peppers. It's also 100% all-natural and gluten-free. without any GMOs, MSG, added preservatives. 

The second chili sauce is the Vegan version, a Huế-style Ớt Sã Sa Tế, which is made without the salted shrimp paste and adds flaked sea salt instead. 

Dr. Hoang states, “We prioritize flavor over everything and are excited to offer the first all-natural line of authentic Vietnamese lemongrass chili sauces. From top-to-bottom, every jar is rich and full of chopped garlic, red chili flakes and heat from Thai chili peppers that is well balanced by zesty lemongrass. It’s our take on the chili sauce craze – inspired by our native city of Huế – that motivated us to create a bold-tasting, crave-worthy condiment that is not overly oily, dried out or inedibly hot.” 

She has also stated, “The infused flavors from lemongrass, chili and fresh spices add a distinct personality, turning any dish into a thrilling and aromatic experience. We’re excited to offer this new line of sa tế that dares to cross all culinary boundaries to liven up dishes around the world.” 

I first tasted the two Vietnamese Lemongrass Chili Sauces on their own, and the first version was spicy hot, with a complex blend of flavors, a pleasant lemongrass element, and lots of umami. Delicious and intriguing. The Vegan version had a similar complexity and fiery heat, but was lacking in umami, likely due to the omission of the shrimp paste. There's still plenty of flavor, but it is different from the original version. My preference was for the non-vegan version as I enjoyed the umami aspect, and believe it also enhances food better due to that aspect. 

The Vietnamese Lemongrass Chili Sauce is quite versatile and I've used it atop a variety of dishes, from onigiri (rice balls) to hamburgers. It was also delicious atop stuffed clams (pictured above) and salmon. You only need a small amount to add plenty of flavor and spicy heat. Just be wary that if you use too much, the heat level might be too great for you. Dr. Dane's Kitchen website also provides some recipes you can make with this sauce. You can simply use it as a condiment with almost any dish, or an ingredient to enhance almost any recipe. With summer coming, you could use it on grilled meats or seafood, atop salads, hotdogs, and more. Highly recommended!

In addition, a portion of the profits from the sales of the Chili sauces, and dipping sauces, benefit the Kids 4 Smiles organization and their work to improve communities, schools and the environment. Kids 4 Smiles partners with local and global non-profit organizations to raise awareness and funds for projects which will improve and change people’s lives and spread smiles along the way.

Put a Vietnamese spin on any dish, and enjoy this delicious Vietnamese Lemongrass Chili Sauce!

Monday, April 18, 2022

Rant: Should We Have Cat Cafes in Boston?

I have sometimes jokingly complained that Boston discriminates against cats. There are a number of dog parks in the city, and dogs are welcomed on the patios of numerous restaurants. However, you won't find a single cat park or any restaurant telling patrons that they can bring their cats to their patios. Dogs seem to get all the love and attention, and that doesn't seem fair.

However, there's currently plans to open a Cat Café in Boston. A Sanctuary Cafe, Inc., led by Brittany L. Baker, is planning on opening at 80 Charles Street. It will be a "Benefit corporation creating a cafe environment for people and cats to enjoy and provide a living wage for employees." At this point, there seems to be little additional information about this new business. 

There was a prior cat cafe in Boston, in Brighton, the PURR Cat Cafe, which was mired in drama and controversy. It somehow lasted about two years and certainly wasn't representative of other cat cafes around the world. Hopefully, this new business won't make the same mistakes. 

At a cat café, you can get food and drink while watching and interacting with a number of cats owned by the café. Think of it kind of as an adult petting zoo. You can't bring your own cats to the café, but you can pet and play with those that are there. Though Japan is well known for its cat cafés, the first one actually opened in Taiwan in 1998. Cat cafes didn't open in Japan until 2004, the first one located in Osaka. Today, there may be as many as 100 cat cafés in Tokyo alone, some that specialize in certain types of cats, from black cats to fat cats.

Customers generally pay an hourly fee to remain at the café, with extra costs for any food and drink. Though you might have concerns with hygiene, the Japanese, who are are fastidious about cleanliness, have little issue with these cafés. Generally, everyone entering the café must first wash their hands or use a hand sanitizer. The café also have numerous air fresheners, conceal the litter boxes and frequently use vacuums to pick up cat hair. Japanese law also has strict cleanliness requirements for these establishments. Boston should pay attentiion!

Cat cafés are popular in Japan because many apartments forbid pets, and others are too busy to take care of a pet. These cafés are also a way to provide some comfort for those who are stressed or lonely. Beside cat cafés, you will also find rabbit cafés, and there might now be even a few other types of pet cafés. The cats are protected from abuse by the patrons, with strict rules on not bothering or tormenting the cats, especially if they are sleeping. Some cat cafes allow adoption of their cats, often working closely with local animal shelters. 

The idea of cat cafés has begun to spread out of Asia and the first one that opened in Europe was Cafe Neko in Vienna, Austria. Others have since opened in Europe, including the Cat Caffe in Zagreb, Croatia, which opened in 2017. I may try to visit the Cat Caffe when I visit Croatia next month.

I'm a firm proponent that Boston should have cat cafes. There's no reason why, if it's properly operated and regulated, such businesses shouldn't exist. Dog lovers already have plenty of places for themselves, so it is time to give cat lovers a place of their own. Hygiene issues can be adequately handled, and the Japanese have shown how that is possible. Such cafes can be very therapeutic, as petting a purring cat can provide such joy and emotional support. 

What are your thoughts on cat café in Boston?

Friday, April 15, 2022

WeSake: Easy Drinking Canned Sake

White Claw Hard Seltzer is hugely popular and other canned hard seltzers sell very well too. Canned RTD (ready-to-drink) Cocktails are also a big hit. And with the summer coming in a couple months, these canned drinks will be even more popular. They are easy to transport, to carry on a mountain hike or bring to the beach, and there's no worries of broken glass. 

So why not consider Canned Sake as an alternative option?  

I received media samples of WeSake, a premium Canned Sake, and it offers much that those other canned drinks do not. 

WeSake was established by beverage executive Pablo Rivera, who previously worked at ZX Ventures/AB InBev. “Fun and lively nights out with sake are not so easy to come by in the American market, and I kept wondering why something so delicious and drinkable wasn’t more widely available,” said Rivera. “We believe this fresh, exciting and versatile drink deserves to be part of any social occasion. WESAKE was born out of a love for a truly impressive beverage that I hope inspires more to explore the category and the unique space that sake fills.” 

Rivera entered into a partnership with a 280-year-old Japanese brewery in Kobe, although their website and press materials doesn't indicate the identity of this brewery. However, it seems probable that the brewery is Hakutsuru, which was founded in 1743 and is located in Kobe. The rice, the type which also isn't identified, is sourced from local farmers in Tagocho, Japan.

WeSake is a Junmai Ginjo, a premium Sake, which is made from only four ingredients: rice, water, yeast and koji. As a Ginjo, at least 40% of the rice is polished away. This is a quality Sake, and it's also non-GMO, gluten free and vegan friendly. With only a 13% ABV, it might have been diluted more than usual, as most Sake is around 15% or ABV. Their website states: "It is brewed Junmai Ginjo style because it’s elegant enough for seasoned sake drinkers, but also bright, fun and easy for all those who are starting to drink it."

Best served chilled, this Sake is dry, crisp and easy-drinking, with pleasant tastes of melon, peach and steamed rice. It goes down smoothly, is refreshing, and very food friendly. This would be excellent on a sunny summer day, or paired with something from the grill or fried seafood. Its lighter than hard seltzers, especially as it's not carbonated, and it probably pairs better with food as well. 

WeSake is spreading across the country, and generally is available for about $18.99 for a four pack. Why not bring some canned Sake to your next summer gathering, and introduce your family and friends to this intriguing and delicious beverage. Anyone can bring some White Claw, but very few will bring some Sake. 

Wednesday, April 13, 2022

Momosan Ramen Boston At Hub Hall: A Quick Review

The new Hub Hall, located next to TD Garden, has 18 food & drink spots, including outposts of some of my favorites like GreCo and Cusser's Roast Beef & Seafood. The new Momosan Ramen Boston may also become a new favorite.

The notable Chef Masaharu Morimoto, of Iron Chef fame, is behind Momosan, which is intended to showcase ramen, as well as Japanese grilled dishes and bar snacks. The first Momosan was opened in New York City in 2016, and additional locations have opened in Waikiki Beach and Seattle, with another spot planned to open in Brooklyn

Momosan is open for lunch and dinner, and I stopped there recently for lunch. The Lunch Menu is extensive, with Sushi, Cold &  Hot Appetizers (about 20 options, priced $7-$14, with plenty of enticing choices, like Duck Tacos and Spicy Wontons), and Ramen (6 options, $16 each, such as Tonkotsu, Tsukemen, & Spicy Vegan Miso. There are other entrees as well, from A5 Waygu to Poke Don. I could have easily ordered several appetizers, to sample a range of dishes, but wanted some Ramen so chose to opt for only one hot appetizer. 

The Karaage ($12) is Japanese-style fried chicken with a spicy garlic soy sauce. This is a favorite dish of mine, and I often order it at a new restaurant, to compare it with previous dishes I've enjoyed. First, this dish was ample, with plenty of pieces of fried chicken, and was large enough to share. Second, the fried coating was crunchy and flavorful, enhanced by the spicy garlic soy. There was plenty of moist chicken inside the crisp coating, and the dish definitely is near the top of my favorite karaage dishes. 

I also selected the Spicy Tan-Tan ($16), with a spicy sesame broth, miso ground pork, cilantro, scallion and ajitama (an egg). The broth was compelling, with a rich sesame flavor that was nicely spiced. The noodles were cooked just right and the miso pork and egg were tasty. Everything was well composed and balanced, an excellent choice for a hearty lunch. 

I'll definitely be returning to Momosan soon, to try more of the menu, and maybe get some Sake. 

Tuesday, April 12, 2022

Testament Winery: The Dalmation Dog Babić

This painting, The Last Supper, is by an unknown artist and was created around 1710. The painting hangs in a Franciscan monastery & museum in Zaostrog, Croatia. When I traveled to Croatia in 2019, I visited this monastery and museum and got to see this painting up close. Look at the bottom right side of the painting, at the spotted dog lying there. 

Here's a close-up of that dog, which is a Dalmatian. This painting is the first presentation in the world of the Dalmatian dog, and it's probable that this breed originated in the Dalmatia region of Croatia. 

The most recent Croatian wine I've tasted also has a Dalmatian dog on its label, and its name is even The Dalmatian Dog. It's produced by the Testament Winery, a relatively new winery located in Northern Dalmatia, near the town of Šibenik. The original owner planted vineyards, generally indigenous grapes, from 2007-2011, and it was then bought around 2017, by Zhoda Investments, and became the Testament Winery. 

The vineyard, covering about 47 hectares, is organic and the primary grape is Babić. The chief winemaker is Juraj Sladić, whose family has been involved in wine production for generations. The Sladić family winery, Vina Sladić, is presided over by Marinko Sladić, who is ready to pass on the estate to the next generation. Juraj is considered one of the most promising young winemakers in Croatia, and he's been making his mark at Testament. 

The 2018 Testament Winery The Dalmatian Dog Babić (about $25) is made from 100% Babić, also known as Rogoznička. Though its exact origins are unknown, it's been grown in Dalmatia for hundreds of years, and is related to Plavac Mali. Babić is grown in about 4% of Croatian vineyards and one of the best regions for this grape are the hills of Primošten. The grape also does best with lower yields, in less fertile soils, forcing it struggle. It also is age-worthy, and can benefit from some time in oak.

This particular wine though sees no oak, and Juraj's intention was to showcase the terroir without any oak influence. The wine was fermented with seven days of skin contact, and aged only in stainless steel. With a 14% ABV, the wine is dark red in color and has an enticing nose of black cherry, spice and herbs. On the palate, it's medium-bodied, and tastes fresh and fruity, with a spicy backbone and some herbal elements. Ripe plum, fig, and black cherry. Good acidity, a lengthy, pleasing finish and firm tannins. Delicious and satisfying. 

This is a wine that should be paired with food, from beef to hearty stews and pasta dishes. I paired it with chicken parmigiana and it went well with the red sauce, and didn't over-power the chicken. It earns a hearty recommendation and I want to seek out more Babić wines. Hopefully I'll get to taste more when I return to Croatia next month.

Monday, April 11, 2022

Rant: Don't Be An Ignorant Traveler

After the last two years of the pandemic, after facing numerous travel restrictions, much of the world is starting to reopen. Travel is now possible, and I know numerous people who have started to plan trips, whether it's just local, maybe to another part of New England, or to another country. Personally, I'm eagerly anticipating traveling back to Croatia in May.

Now, on these trips, whether it's a short day trip or a two-week vacation, your time is limited at your destination. How do you maximize your enjoyment, considering your limited available time? I think the answer is simple: Research before you depart

Whenever I go on a trip, I do plenty of research beforehand, especially seeking food and wine spots, from restaurants to markets, from wine stores to wineries. I have other interests as well, and will seek out places which meet those interests too. I want to know about some of the best and most interesting places before I get there. I want to know which places are closest to my hotel, those places I can easily walk to and those places I might need to drive to, or take a taxi. 

For my upcoming trip to Croatia, I've already been doing my research, finding fascinating spots that will be close to my travels. I did similar research for my first trip there in 2019, and as an example, I found Cahun, a hat shop in Zagreb that made hats by hand. I found a fine fedora there but it wasn't a shop I would have stumbled upon by accident. If I hadn't done the research before hand, I likely would be been ignorant of this place. 

Sure, I like to wander around a new place, to stumble upon place of interests by surprise but,I don't want to rely only on surprise. For that can be a mixed bag, sometimes finding a good place, and other times being very disappointed. And I'd likely miss some fascinating spots that never came within my usual travels. I want to minimize my potential disappointments, so I do my research first.

I might visit an area only once and never return, or not until years later. Thus, I want to experience the best of that area that I can, and that is unlikely to happen without research. A prepared traveler is more likely to have a better and more thorough time, getting to sample the cream of a city. I strongly doubt I could get lucky and just stumble upon all of the great places. 

There are some places you might never stumble upon, because they are hidden away, in more remote areas. They might be well off the established tourist routes, or simply difficult to find as they are but one of dozens of similar places in the same region. I want advance information and only research will bring that to me. 

Online research about most travel destinations is relatively easy. All it takes is a little time and you will have almost anything you need. Yes, you will have to weed through some useless information, but the search is more than worthwhile. It has definitely made my prior journeys so much better.

So why do some people remain ignorant travelers? Why do they fail to do the proper research before traveling? Why take such a huge risk, especially when you may only get a single opportunity to explore a new region?

When you travel, do you do research first, or just wing it?

Friday, April 8, 2022

Lulu's Bakery & Pantry: A Scrumptious Salem Site

Corn bread and cupcakes, biscuits and croissants, chocolate desserts and pepperoni rolls, an epic Whoopie Pie, and so much more! 

In February, Lulu’s Bakery and Pantry opened at 285 Derby Street in Salem, close to Pickering Wharf, and it's open every day from 7am-7pm. This new bakery is owned by Nikki and Jim Economides, both who have been involved in the food and restaurant industry for many years. I was initially invited to visit the bakery as a media guest, and I've also returned two more times to buy and taste more of their baked goods and desserts. I plan to return there often as I've impressed with their delicious products.

Nikki is originally from West Virginia, and the bakery pays homage to her roots in a number of ways, while Jim is from Ipswich. Nikki graduated from Johnson & Wales, worked for the Finale Restaurant Group, and eventually launched her own confectionary, Fixx Chocolates. Jim graduated from the New England Culinary Institute, worked at a number of Boston area restaurants, and co-founded the All Star Sandwich Bar.  

Nikki and Jim initially wanted to open a candy shop, to sell the Fixx chocolates, but that concept evolved over time, as they decided to enlarge the scope of their endeavor. Around 2019, they opted to open a bakery and as they worked toward that goal, the pandemic struck, causing all sorts of difficulty. They persevered though, battling the significant obstacles that arose, trying to make their dreams a reality. In January 2021, they finally found the Salem location, and decided that it would fit all their needs. 

The location required plenty of work to make it business ready, and Nikki and Jim ended up doing a significant amount of work on their own, from painting to laying down the floor. High construction costs and the unavailability of contractors were still obstacles they had to overcome. They had originally hoped to open prior to Thanksgiving, but were delayed until this past February. Opening any food service business during the pandemic is a risky proposition, but Nikki and Jim wanted to see their dream come true. 

On my first visit to the bakery, I spoke with Nikki and found her to be personable, passionate and down-to-earth. I've also met Jim and he seems just as nice. Nikki grew up on farms in West Virginia, and there are numerous aspects of the bakery which pay homage to these roots, from pepperoni rolls to the decor. Some of those touches are more subtle, but add to the overall ambience. Nikki's objective with the bakery was to make it a comfortable and approachable place, less fancy than the former Finale's Desserterie. 

All of the recipes in the bakery are Nikki's, some inspired by recipes from her grandmother. Nikki has a myriad of new baked goods and desserts, such as more cakes with a Southern influence, she wants to create and try out, but she's had to restrain her desires a bit. As they have only been open a couple months, adding many more items to their menu would make it tough on the staff, who would have to learn how to prepare all of those new items. It's still too soon to add too many new products, so, additional items will be added, but more slowly over time, to ease the learning curve for her staff. 

If you examine their displays, you'll find they already offer a wide variety of items, so there's no immediate need to add a large number of additional items. Everyone who stops at the bakery should find plenty of tempting treats. Your biggest problem might be trying to decide which items to buy, but that just means you'll need to return to buy different items on future trips. I'll also note that if you purchase 6 or more items, you get a discount of 10% off your order. And it's easy to find six items you'll want to try.
 
Have you ever had a Pepperoni Roll? It's an iconic West Virginia food, available in nearly every gas station and convenience store in West Virginia. It's alleged that the pepperoni roll was invented by Giuseppe Argiro at the Country Club Bakery in Fairmont, West Virginia, in 1927. They became a common lunch option for coal-miners, especially as they didn't require refrigeration. It's a relatively simple dish, a soft roll with a layer of pepperoni baked inside. They are usually eaten as is, although sometimes they are topped with a tomato sauce with roasted peppers. 

The bakery sells Pepperoni Rolls, Pepperoni & Cheese Rolls, and Vegetarian Rolls ($1.95 each). I've tasted the first two, and enjoyed the soft, fresh rolls and the thin layer of slightly spicy pepperoni, with some of the oil soaked into the interior of the bread. They are fine as is, although I've also warmed them up and that's tasty as well. A very good value for a easy snack.

Corn bread and Biscuits! The Corn Bread is made with creamed corn and cheddar, and is a little sweeter than many other Southern versions. I found it very moist, with little pieces of corn adding a nice textural element, and it wasn't overly sweet. It had a rich corn flavor, and adding some butter atop it was absolutely delicious. I've gotten some corn bread on each of my visits. 

The Biscuits are light and fluffy, and not as brittle as some biscuits, so they should hold up better in their Biscuit sandwiches. A Biscuit can be ordered with Lulu's Jam, Honey & Sea Salt, Apple Butter or Molasses Butter. The Apple Butter, which is made on the premises (and can be purchased by the jar), was an excellent topping for a Biscuit, with a rich apple flavor and a balanced sweetness. 

They also sell Biscuit Egg Sandwiches, starting at $4, and to which you can add meat, cheeses, and/or veggies. If you don't want a biscuit, they have other bread options like a croissant, hot roll, wheat bread, or crusty sourdough. Other breakfast options include a Yogurt Bowl and Oatmeal
 
Their Cinnamon Rolls are based on a recipe from Nikki's grandmother, and they have that home-made vibe. With lots of cinnamon, a soft roll, and a creamy frosting, it's all well-balanced and delicious, especially when warmed. These are a fine comfort treat, perfect for breakfast or an after-dinner snack. 
 
I was thoroughly impressed with their Whoopie Pies, one of the best I've ever tasted. The chocolate was essentially a moist and rich brownie, a great choice. The creamy filling was also quite tasty, not overly sweet, and well complemented the taste of the brownie. It's very large as well, big enough that two people could easily share it, unless one person was especially hungry. I can't wait to return to buy more Whoopie Pies. Highly recommended!

They sell a variety of Muffins, such as Blueberry Crumble, Apricot Ginger and Banana Nut

There's also numerous Cookies available, including Chocolate Chip, Oatmeal Raisin, Peanut Butter, Double Chocolate, and Butter Pecan. The types of muffins and cookies that are available are likely to change day to day, dependent on ingredient availability and seasonality. 

For example, check out these Shamrock Sugar Cookies for St. Patrick's Day.

A couple varieties of Scones: Roasted Pepper & Feta and Mixed Berry & Chocolate Chip. These aren't the usual type of scones you find at many other bakeries.

Croissants and Fruit Tarts. They also sell some other breads, including Whole Wheat Loaf, Sourdough Loaf, Hot Rolls, and Gluten-Free Focacia Rolls. The Sourdough is an excellent choice, with large slices with a crusty exterior and soft, flavorful interior. Great for toast or sandwiches, and I used a couple slices for a cheeseburger. I definitely will be buying more sourdough in the near future.

The Macaroons are either covered with milk chocolate or dark chocolate, and my preference is dark chocolate. The moist, coconut-rich macaroons were enhanced by the dark chocolate, with its slight bitter edge counteracting the sweetness of the coconut. 

The case of chocolate and other desserts is visually appealing, offering much more to tempt your palate, such as the chocolate Indulgence cake. They also make cakes and cupcakes to order, and have even recently created a wedding cake for a customer. Need a birthday cake? Consider ordering one here.

Individual Chocolate Cream and Creme Brulee. If you're making dinner at home, you could pick up some of these for dessert. 

Coconut Creme. This is one of the items I'll order on my new visit.

They sell a variety of Cupcakes, including a selection of Vegan ones.

Fruit Tarts and individual chocolate Indulgences

You can buy jars of their Butters and Jellies, including their Hot Pepper Butter, which in West Virginia is often used as a spread on sandwiches.

Some of Nikki's Fixx chocolates are also available. In general, her Fixx chocolates business has been largely on pause as they establish the new bakery.

As I mentioned, there are numerous nods to West Virginia at the bakery, including their Potato Chips. They sell Mister Bee Potato Chips, which are made in from West Virginia. Local people may not be familiar with this brand, and may not realize their origin.

For lunch or dinner, you can also order a variety of Sandwiches, generally either half or full-sized, and priced from $4-$9.50. Some of the options include Tuna Salad, Hot Dog, PB&J, Ham & Cheese, and Falafel Burger. There are also Salads, Soups, and Sides. Their Chili is based on a recipe from Nikki's grandmother, although with some changes. For example, her grandmother's chili used venison and didn't have beans. Nikki doesn't use venison and does add beans. 

There's also a lengthy list of Drinks available, from various kinds of Coffee to Tea, Hot Chocolate to Juice. Their unsweetened Iced Tea is very good. 

Against the front windows is a wooden pew, in front of a couple tables, and that pew actually came from a church in West Virginia. 

On the back wall are a number of cooking pans, including some family pans from West Virginia. It's cool to see all of these subtle nods to Nikki's heritage, and it adds to the homey vibe of the bakery. 

Nikki's sister sells painted shells, which are displayed at the bakery. You can also buy a Lulu's Bakery t-shirt. 
 
In addition, they sell Roughly a Cup, by Aunt Chelle, which is their family cookbook.

The bakery has been busy since its opening, and they have already been receiving catering orders. Their current top three best sellers have been Biscuits, Fruit Twists, and the Everything Bagel Croissant (available only on the weekend). They have also been selling many cupcakes, and recently added vegan cupcakes to their line-up. On all my visits, the bakery was doing a very steady business. It's easy to understand all their customers due to the quality of their food.

Overall, I'm very impressed with Lulu’s Bakery and Pantry, and each visit I've tried something new, as well as buying some favorites. Their food is fresh, often amply sized, visually appealing, and delicious. I love all the nods to Nikki's West Virginia background, and that adds a unique flair to the bakery. The bakery is dynamic, adding new items on a regular basis, and it will be fascinating to watch its slow evolution. This bakery will be a regular stop for me anytime I'm in the Salem area, and I highly recommend that my readers check it out as well. 

Thursday, April 7, 2022

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) For April, Kane’s Donuts is bringing the flavors of spring to New England with fresh, local ingredients like blueberries from Maine and chocolate from Somerville, MA-based Taza Chocolate. The April flavors of the month include Honey Blueberry Pie, Reese’s Cup, and Marble Cruller.

The Honey Blueberry Pie Donut is a light and airy yeast dough, bursting with blueberry pie filling, and doused with Kane’s Signature Honey Glaze. The Reese's Cup Donut is a yeast style donut, frosted with a homemade chocolate frosting made with Somerville's Taza Chocolate, topped with Teddie Peanut Butter, a dollop of Kane’s fluffy whoopie pie filling and a piece of a Reese's Cup. The Marble Cruller is a cake style donut layered with Kane’s old-fashioned dough and chocolate dough twisted to form a cruller then dipped in their Signature Honey Glaze.

2) Chef/Owner Will Gilson, Wine Director David Danforth, and the rest of the Puritan & Co. team invite guests to join them for a fun 90's-inspired throwback dinner, the "We Love the 90's," on Thursday, April 28th at 6pm. Paired with six courses of 90's-inspired cuisine, Wine Director David Danforth has curated a rare selection of 90's wines that span the decade. 

The menu will feature:
First Course:
1996 A.R. Lenoble Blanc de Blancs Brut Grand Cru, Champagne, France
“Assiette of nostalgia” featuring Caviar, blini, egg mimosa; tomato water shot glass; pepper-crusted seared rare tuna; smoked salmon terrine
Second Course:
1998 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardive, Goldert, Alsace, France
General Tso’s Sweetbreads with broccoli, rice timable, micro cilantro
Third Course:
1990 Domaine Charlopin "Cuvee Vieilles Vignes" Gevrey-Chambertin, Burgundy, France
Spinach farfalle with sun-dried tomato pesto with basil, parmesan tuile, EVOO
Fourth Course:
1996 Le Cinciole Chianti Classico Riserva, Tuscany, Italy
Duck Confit Napoleon with mushrooms, black truffles, chestnut-foie sauce
Fifth Course:
1995 Domaine Couly-Dutheil "Baronnie Madeleine," Chinon, France (Magnum)
Lamb rack “en crepinette” with tarragon jus, ratatouille, tomato concasse
Dessert:
1991 Souza LBV Port, Porto, Portugal
Molten lava cake with creme anglaise, raspberry coulis, vanilla bean ice cream

The dinner is $250 per person, including food, wine, and gratuity, with tickets available for purchase HERE

Wednesday, April 6, 2022

New Sampan Article: Origins of Crab Rangoon

"The most interesting feature of Chinese life to me was that on board their boats, or sampans, as they are called....Upon these boats live whole families of three and even four generations."
--The Fall River Daily Herald, November 20, 1888

For almost two yearsr, I've been contributing to Sampan, the only bilingual Chinese-English newspaper in New England. It is published in print as well as online, available in both Chinese and English. I've previously written thirty articles for Sampan, and you can find links here

My newest article, Origins of Crab Rangoon, is now available in the new issue of Sampan. At most Chinese-American restaurants, you can find Crab Rangoons and they are a hugely popular item. Also known as Crab Puffs, Crab Pillows, and Cheese Wontons, these are essentially fried wontons stuffed with cream cheese and imitation crab (or sometimes real crab). They are crunchy and creamy, and they are prepared nearly the same at every restaurant. What is the history of crab rangoon and who invented it? Check out my article for the answers. 

What is a "sampan?" The newspaper's site states, "A sampan is a popular river boat in traditional China. This small but useful vessel, by transporting cargo from large boats to the village ports, creates a channel of communication among villages." And like that type of boat, Sampan delivers news and information all across New England, and "acts a bridge between Asian American community organizations and individuals in the Greater Boston area."

Sampan, which was founded in 1972, is published by the nonprofit Asian American Civic Association, "The newspaper covers topics that are usually overlooked by the mainstream press, such as key immigration legislation, civil rights, housing, education, day-care services and union activities. These issues are crucial to the well-being of Asian immigrants, refugees, low-income families as well as individuals who are not proficient in the English language."

There is plenty of interest in Sampan which will appeal to all types of readers, from restaurant reviews to historical articles, from vital news stories to travel items. In these current days when racism and prejudice against Asians and their restaurants is high, it's more important than ever that accurate information about the Asian community is disseminated and promoted. We need to combat the irrational prejudices that some possess, and support our Asian communities just as we would support any other element of our overall community. We are all important aspects of a whole, and we need to stand together.

Support Sampan!   

Tuesday, April 5, 2022

SENA22: Seafood Trends & Preferences in Food Service

At the Seafood Expo North America (SENA), I attended a conference session, Seadood Trends & Preferences in Foodservice Moving Forward. Led by Mark DiDomenico, of Datassential, a company which tracks food trends, the session examined seafood  trends in the U.S. food service industry, including restaurants and supermarkets with prepared foods. The session provided some fascinating insights, including ways where the food service industry could sell more seafood. 

The session began with some general insights into the food service industry during the pandemic. In 2021, foodservice sales were down 13% from pre-pandemic levels, and it was predicted that such sales wouldn't rise above pre-pandemic levels until at least 2023. As inflation has been rising, consumers have indicated that the top item they have cut from their budgets has been dining out. The next items they cut included clothing, live entertainment and travel. 

During the pandemic, over half of foodservice operators also had to raise menu prices, due to a number of factors including: higher food & ingredient costs, higher labor costs, general inflation, supply chain shortages causing them to use higher cost replacements, and more. In addition, about 60% of their menus shrunk in size, by about 10%. This also contributed to less consumers patronizing restaurants. 

The session then turned to seafood issues, noting that about 34% of consumers were trying to consume more seafood, as opposed to about 18% of consumers who wanted to consume more chicken and 11% more red meat. That's a positive sign for seafood suppliers that a significant number of consumers want to eat more seafood. In addition, most consumers are concerned about seafood sustainability. A survey noted that 48% of consumers were "very concerned" about sustainability and 42% were "somewhat concerned."  

Even during the pandemic, the seafood industry had some gains on menu penetration (how many food service menus an item was listed on). For example, in 2021, stir fried shrimp had a menu penetration of 1.1%, with a one year change of about 24%. Tuna nigiri had menu penetration of 1% with a one year change of about 14%. Other seafood gains included Alaskan cod, 1.2% penetration and 12% growth, and imitation crab, 1.9% penetration and 11.5% growth. Battered fish had the highest menu penetration at 3%. 

It's important to note that only about 57% of menus have seafood on them. There is definitely room for growth here, that more restaurants could add seafood to their menus, and cater to the growing desire of consumers to eat more fish. It's also interesting that about 38% of consumers like to try new foods, but that is tempered with the information that 48% of those consumers want "safe experimentation." These consumers want to try new items, but which come in a more familiar form. They want to try new things in small steps, enhancing dishes which they already know and love. That's important for restaurants to understand, so they can find ways to introduce new items within what is already familiar. 

The pandemic has led to far more consumers preparing seafood at home, reversing a trend which had long been the case. As I've mentioned previously, consumers used to eat far more seafood out at restaurants than at home. Part of the reason for this was that many Americans worried about how to properly cook seafood at home. During the pandemic, this changed, especially as so many restaurants were closed for a lengthy period of time. About 42% of consumers claimed that they now bought seafood for consumption at home, and only 22% had dined on seafood at a restaurant. 

This is likely to change now that many restaurants have reopened, and more consumers are dining out. Hopefully, consumers will continue to prepare seafood at home too, simply eating more fish overall at both home and out at restaurants. One way for restaurants to be more inventive with seafood dishes is with using different sauces and spices in the preparation. This can help with safe experimentation, as consumers will likely see those new sauces and spices as familiar enough to give a try. 

In 2021, the Top Ten Sauces/Spices for Seafood included: 1) Sauce, 65% menu penetration; 2) Garlic, 39%; 3) Lemon 30%; 4) Butter 26%; 5) Tartar 16%; 6) Ginger 13%; 7) Curry 12%; 8) Herb 11%; 9) Garlic Sauce 10%; and 10) Red Sauce 10%. These are the items that are most familiar to consumers, and used most often at restaurants. Paying attention to safe experimentation, restaurants could use these familiar sauces/spices with less familiar types of seafood, to give consumers something new, but familiar, to try. 

There are other sauces/spices which have seen great growth during the last four years, but which have not yet achieved significant menu penetration. The Top Ten Fast Growing Sauces/Spices for Seafood 
include: 1) Chimichurri 1.1% menu penetration & a 4 year growth of 61%; 2) Marinade 1.3% & 41% growth; 3) Mongolian 1% & 38% growth; 4) Chipotle Sauce 1.2% & 37% growth; 5) Sweet Chile Sauce 1.2 & 31% growth; 6) Eel Sauce 3.5% & 28% growth; 7) Spicy Mayo 3.6% & 24% growth; 8) Lemon Caper 1.8% & 21% growth; 9) Honey 6.6% & 18% growth; and 10) Brown Sauce 3.1 & 17% growth. These are the sauces and spices that restaurants should consider adding to their seafood dishes, capitalizing on their growing popularity. 

If a restaurant wants to be even more cutting edge, they could consider some of the hottest sauces/spices, those which are extremely popular on other dishes but which haven't yet become as popular on seafood dishes. The Top Ten includes: 1) Nashville Hot, 2.5% menu penetration & 1 year change of 33%; 2) Hot Mustard 1.3% & 29% change; 3) Spicy Honey 3.2% & 26% change; 4) Honey Lemon 1.1% & 21% change; 5) Furikake 1.4% & 20% change; 6) White Truffle Oil 1.5% & 18% change; 7) Gochujang 2.3% & 14.4% change; 8) Sambal 1.6% & 13% change; 9) Peruvian 1.8% & 12% change; 10) Dried Chili 1% & 11% change. 

The session also included some fascinating information on the top sauces/spices per geographical region, including the South, West, Midwest, and Northeast. In the Northeast, Italian sauces were very popular and the Top Ten Sauces/Spices included: Vodka Sauce, Black Truffle, Bleu Cheese Dressing, Bolognese, Vodka, Romesco, Clam Sauce, Red Clam Sauce, Carbonara, White Clam Sauce. Additional popular sauces included Meat Sauce, Mustard Sauce, Pink Sauce, Ragu, and Basil Pesto. 

Restaurant owners, what is the most different type of sauces/spices that you have recently used on seafood dishes?