The Origins of Fried Ice Cream

When's the last time you enjoyed Fried Ice Cream for dessert (or even breakfast)?

It's been years since I've eaten this sweet treat, but there was a time, when I was much younger, when I used to commonly order it when it was available, mostly at Asian and Mexican restaurants. Different restaurants offered their own variations, such as different types of coatings and toppings. The photo above, from ten years ago, is a dish of Fried Ice Cream from the Margaritas's Restaurant, and they still offer this dessert.

It's described on their menu, and priced at $10, as "Sweet vanilla ice cream with a salty crushed pretzel shell, covered in your choice of chocolate sauce, raspberry or strawberry puree, or honey. Mix and match, if you’re feeling loco!" 

Who invented this tasty hot and cold dessert, a melding of frozen ice cream and fried coating? There are two main claims, one alleging it was first served in 1893 during the Chicago World’s Fair. The other claim is that it was created around 1894 by a Philadelphia company. However, evidence for both claims is scant, especially lacking in specific details such as the identity of the person who might have been the actual inventor. 

Through my own research, it appears that the existence of Fried Ice Cream predates 1893, by over 20 years, and thus both of the above claims must fail. However, there doesn't appear to be any specific evidence actually identifying the inventor of this dessert, but we can garner a better understanding of its history over the past 150 years. 

An ancestor to fried ice cream extends back to the Presidency of Thomas Jefferson, who enjoyed ice cream and helped to popularize it in the U.S. The Harper's New Monthly Magazine, April 1879, published an article titled, Dr. Mitchill's Letters From Washington: 1801-1813. Dr. Samuel Latham Mitchill was a prominent U.S. Senator and Representative from New York. One of his letters stated, 
"Washington, February 10, 1802: 'On Tuesday I wrote that I was going to dine with the President [Jefferson]. The party was easy and sociable, as all these parties are. Among other things ice-creams were produced in the form of balls of the frozen material inclosed in covers of warm pastry, exhibiting a curious contrast, as if the ice had just been taken from the oven." Though similar in some respects, this was not yet fried ice cream, and more like an ice cream in a pie crust. 

The first documented reference to fried ice cream that I was able to find was from 1870, over twenty years before its alleged invention in the early 1890s. The Evening Gazette (NY), August 30, 1870, described a grand party, which offered, "All the delicacies of the season. Peaches old and withered, serve in soup dishes, fried ice cream, roast ice, boned eggs, some boned out of a barn, and many other dainty dishes too numerous to mention,…" 

Fried ice cream wasn't mentioned as a new invention, or offered as something unique, so it's possible the dessert existed for a number of years prior to 1870, although it hadn't received any newspaper coverage prior to 1870. 

Five years later, the Cleveland Leader (OH), July 21, 1875, noted that “…the bill of fare on the Detroit boats is more varier than that of any other line of boats leaving Cleveland.” Although the boat only served breakfast, during warm weather, the menu included  “…, with dessert of the usual kind, and fried ice cream, a new dish peculiar to this line of boats.” So, we see fried ice cream was now considered a new creation, not commonly available. So, maybe there was only limited availability in certain areas. And it's interesting to see that it was offered for breakfast! 

The Cincinnati Enquirer (OH), May 6, 1877, mentioned that Dick, a well known eatery, had recently moved to a new location, and would be offering free ice cream on a Sunday. Eventually, they would sell ice cream by the plate or gallon, and “Fried ice-cream or ice-cream with a stick in it will also be served.”

The Houston Post (TX), November 17, 1880, briefly noted, “A Belton confectioner is trying to invent what he calls fried ice cream.” We have already seen that fried ice cream had already been invented, but it might not have yet spread from New York or Ohio down to Texas. 

The Neosho County Republican (KS), September 27, 1883, stated, “The younkers at the Public School say that: ‘Prof. Jones treats them to fried ice cream, occasionally.” Younkers means "youngsters," likely referring to the students at the school. 

On to California! The Mendocino Coast Beacon (CA), October 16, 1886, described a grand ball that would be held soon, and the menu included “fried ice cream for dessert.”

The Inter Lake (MT), June 23, 1893, mentioned that a menu for a party of bachelors included a dessert of “Fried Ice Cream.” 

So, we saw fried ice cream available in New York, Ohio, Kansas, California and Montana, showing that it existed across the country, from coast to coast, before its alleged invention at the World's Fair or by a Philadelphia company. It probably was available in other states as well, although it might not have garnered newspaper coverage in those locations. Could New York have been the origin spot for fried ice cream? 

********************

The first newspaper article describing the alleged origin of fried ice cream was published in April 1894, and it was reprinted in newspapers in over 35 different states, as far west as Hawaii. This certainly led to many, many people across the country becoming aware of this dessert. These articles claimed that fried ice cream was created by a company in Philadelphia, although curiously, the identity of that company was never mentioned. Why not? It certainly raises my suspicions, and as it appears fried ice cream had existed since 1870, the Philadelphia claim loses credibility. 

The New York Times, April 8, 1894, published an article titled, “Fried Ice Cream. It sounds queer, but it tastes very good.” The article then noted, “A Philadelphia firm makes a specialty of fried ice cream, which is pronounced delicious by all who taste it. A small, solid cake of the cream is enveloped in a thin sheet of pie crust, and then dipped in boiling lard or butter long enough to cook the outside to a crisp. Served immediately, the ice cream is found to be as solidly frozen as when it was first prepared. The process of frying is so quickly accomplished and the pastry is so good a protector that the heat has no chance to reach the frozen cream.” This article is also the first one to describe the process of preparing fried ice cream.  

The Indianapolis Journal (IN), April 15, 1894, added, “Philadelphia, which has always had the reputation of producing the best ice cream in the country, has, during the past winter, gained fresh laurels in this direction by the introduction of fried ice cream. This delicacy is concocted at a number of fashionable cooking schools, and has come to stay.” If it was invented during the winter, then it might have been in late 1893, and not 1894, although specifics are still lacking. 

The Austin American-Statesman (TX), April 23, 1894, mentioned, “A new society fad now looms up in the invention of fried ice cream by a northern inventor. As the success of the new dish, of course, depends on the rapidity of its preparation it is needless to add that the cook and all hands must have their skates on.”

The Logansport Daily Pharos (IN), April 24, 1894, published an advertisement for the Vendome, noting, "Our Fried Ice Cream and Snowball Fritters are the talk of the town." 

The National Tribune (D.C.), April 26, 1894, stated, “Baked or fried ice-cream sounds festive and like unto a fairy tale, but in reality, it seems, is quite a delicious fact. Small hard-frozen cakes of the cream are wrapped in thin coverings of pie crust, dropped in hot fat, fried and served immediately with no apparent loss of coldness or solidarity. The dough and quick work sufficiently guard against even the great heat, but it seems a lot of trouble and a painting-the-lily scheme to try to make ice--cream any better.”

The Morning Journal & Courier (CT), May 1, 1894, had an ad for Ferry’s Bakery & Café, which served Fried Ice Cream, "The Latest Society Fad." 

The Champaign Daily Gazette (IL), May 16, 1894, noted that the Eastern Star of Urbana would give a Pink and White supper at a local Masonic temple. “Fried ice cream will then make its first appearance in Urbana.” As a follow-up, the Champaign Daily Gazette (IL), May 23, 1894, mentioned,“Fried ice cream was served for the first time in Urbana and was voted a success by all who were there in time to sample it. The supply was soon exhausted.”

The Poughkeepsie Eagle-News (NY), June 9, 1894, stated that the latest addition to the bill of fare at Sweet & Grisards restaurant was fried ice cream.

The News & Observer (NC), February 26, 1896, described a situation where a woman asked a caterer whether fried ice cream existed or not. He replied that “fried ice cream was one of the most toothsome dainties on the menu.”

In a cookbook, Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner, or What to Eat and How to Prepare It (1897) by Maud C. Cooke offered a recipe for "Fried Ice Cream.--A small, solid cake of the cream is enveloped in a thin sheet of pie crust, and then dipped in boiling lard or butter long enough to cook the outside to a crisp. Served immediately, the ice cream is found to be as solidly frozen as when it was first prepared. The process of frying is so quickly accomplished, and the pastry is so good a protector, that the heat has no chance to reach the frozen cream. It is pronounced delicious." This recipe isn't any different from what was provided by the newspapers in 1894, so it clearly wasn't Maud's creation. 

In Food, Home and Garden (December 1899), there was an ad for Diamond Butter Oil, mentioning that it was good to use to make Fried Ice Cream. 

Fried ice cream losing its popularity? The Evansville Journal (IN), January 10, 1901, briefly noted, “After the fad for fried ice cream had lived out its day in New York, and just at the time, too, when even novices had learned to dip the sliced ice in the batter and fry it before it melted,…”

There was a recipe in Mrs. Owens’ New Cook Book and Complete Household Manual (1899) by Mrs. Frances E. Owens. The recipe stated, “Fried Ice Cream—Take a small solid cake of any ice cream, enclose securely in a thin sheet of pie crust and immerse in hot fat long enough to cook the paste. Serve at once and the cream will be found to be frozen still.”

The Buffalo Courier Express (NY), April 23, 1902, offered a unique fried ice cream recipe, which they called Ice Cream Croquettes. Rather than just being covered by a thin sheet of pie crust, the frozen ice cream was covered with egg white and then macaroon crumbs before frying. Then, the dessert was served with chocolate sauce, the first mention of any topping for fried ice cream.  

The Blanchardville Blade (WI), April 3, 1903, ran an ad for Camp’s Restaurant & Café, which served, “Fried Ice Cream to Order.”

The World's Fair and fried ice cream! The St. Louis Republic (MO), November 4, 1903, reported on some recent suggestions received at the upcoming World’s Fair for concessions or features which might be considered “eccentric.” One of those included a concession to sell ‘fried ice cream.’ Joseph Sasso, of Lakewood, New York, stated, “It would be served in solid blocks, eaten hot, and yet at the same time cold….This plan of mine has not yet been tried and is my own invention.”

As a follow-up, the Indianapolis Star, (IN) November 7, 1903, reported that Sasso had obtained a concession at the Lousiana Purchase Exposition to sell fried ice cream. “And he contends that he freezes the confection without ice and fries it without fire.” Sasso stated, “The invention is my own, thoroughly practical, and yet, as this will be the first time it shall have been tried, I can not disclose the secrets of my invention. The delicacy which I serve is wholesome, pure and palatable, either in hot or cold weather.” 

There wasn't any mention that fried ice cream had been available at the 1893 World's Fair, and Sasso apparently tried to claim to be the inventor of this dish, although it's possible he was only claiming to have invented his own special process to create this dish. Additional details about Sasso and his creation  are elusive. 

Fried ice cream leading to dates? The Okolona Messenger (MS), November 7, 1906, provided a series of brief ads for David & Bell, such as: “Fried Ice Cream is just the thing for a banquet or club meeting,” “If you set them up to Fried Ice Cream the girls are bound to like you,” and “The most delicious product of the confectioner’s art—Fried Ice Cream.”

The North Alabamian (AL), November 8, 1906, briefly noted, “New product—fried ice cream at Sevier’s.”

The Boston Globe (MA), June 2, 1907, printed this recipe from from Bethra Liedean. This is similar to nearly all of the prior recipes. 

A new quote and comparison about fried ice cream. The Charlotte News (NC), November 6, 1907, briefly noted, “Kisses of hypocrites taste like fried ice cream.” This apparently became a relatively famous quote, that would be repeated in multiple newspapers all across the country, and continued to be repeated in newspapers until at least 1916. 

No explanation of the quote was ever provided, but I suspect it means that the kiss of a hypocrite may feel warm upfront (like the outer warm pastry shell of fried ice cream), but it conceals the coldness of the hypocrite beneath it (the frozen ice cream within).  

A price for fried ice cream. The Clinton Register (IL), June 12, 1908, provided the first known price for this dessert. “Fried ice cream thirteen cents a cake, guaranteed hard enough to crumble. Call at Conner’s café.” This would be about $4.60 today.

The Chicago World's Fair! The Ice Cream Trade Journal, January 1909, published an article on the Origin and Development of the Ice Cream Industry. One section mentioned fried ice cream, claiming it was also known as “Alaska pie” or “Alaska fritters,” although those terms seemed to be rarely used. The article continued, “The method is, briefly, to dip a cube of hard ice cream into a thin fritter batter and then to plunge it into very hot lard or olive oil. The pastry forms a food protector from the heat and hardens so quickly that the cream is not softened in the least. Another more elaborate form is said to be serve in certain New York cafes today.” Unfortunately, the article didn't mention what some New York cafes did differently. 

An intriguing brief item from this article claimed, “The fried ice cream was introduced at the World’s Fair in Chicago in 1893.” No other specifics were provided, such as the identity of the inventor. Note that this claim was made 16 years after the World's Fair, and was the first such mention of a connection. 

The World's Columbian Exposition, also known as the Chicago World's Fair, was held from May 1 to October 31, 1893, to celebrate the 400th anniversary of the arrival of Christopher Columbus in the New World. Later newspapers would repeat the claim that fried ice cream originated at the Fair, but again, none of those references provided any specific details. They simply repeated the same basic allegation. And without any supporting evidence, one has to take this claim with a grain of salt. Plus, the existence of fried ice cream prior to 1893 negates this claim of origin.  

A cartoon from The Bulletin (CA), July 27, 1910. “Got any fried ice cream.”

A new claimant! The Boston Globe (MA), November 4, 1951, ran an article titled, “Boston’s Woman Chef Can Even Fry Ice Cream.” The article was about Kentucky-born Lillian Burchett, who currently worked at the Hotel Puritan in Boston. She was described as, “The lady who dreamed up Black Bottom pie and fried ice cream (you read it right)….” She had a daily radio program, and her work required much research and testing of recipes in the experimental kitchen. “It was in this kitchen that the now famous recipe for fried ice cream was perfected.” 

Lillian stated,“What I was looking for was an ice-cream fritter. Mrs. Bruchett reveals, I’d take very hard vanilla ice-cream balls and roll them in batter but I couldn’t seem to make the batter stick. Finally I found a cereal flake that when mixed with cinnamon and flour stuck when dropped for a moment in hot fat. All you have to do then is pop it in the deep freeze till ready to serve with fudge sauce or as is.” Obviously she couldn't have invented fried ice cream, but she may have created her own variation, using cereal flakes, cinnamon and flour as a coating rather than a thin pice crust or batter.

And one more claimant! The Daily Item (MA), March 25, 1961, noted the existence of fried ice cream in Tokyo. “You get it in the tempura restaurants, where they fry your food in sesame seed deep fat, right in front of you, a bite at a time.” The article continued, “The scoop of frozen ice cream is brought in quick. It is dipped in batter which provides a kind of insulating later. Then the whole thing is plopped into the deep fat and fried like a doughnut for less than a minute. You pick up this fried snowball with chopsticks and nibble away at it.” And the Transcript-Telegram (MA), June 18, 1966, added, “The Japanese invented fried ice cream.” 

Yes, fried ice cream became popular in Japanese restaurants in the 1960s, spreading to other Asian restaurants as well, but there's again no evidence that the Japanese invented it. Ice cream first came to Japan around 1869, but we already have seen that fried ice cream existed in the U.S. since at least 1870, so it would be near impossible for Japan to have invented it. 

So, we don't know exactly who invented Fried Ice Cream, but we see that it has existed since at least 1870, and maybe earlier. We have seen though that the two main claimants to having invented it, the World's Fair in 1893 and a Philadelphia company in 1894, lack supporting evidence and their claims were over 20 years after the first documented mention of fried ice cream. So, their claims must fail. 

Where have you recently enjoyed fried ice cream?

Rant: Breaking Food "Rules"

Banana Cream Pie for breakfast?

Last Friday morning, I enjoyed a tasty breakfast at the Agawam Diner in Rowley, an 85 year old restaurant that's also well known for its home-made pies. I opted for steak and eggs, with home fries and toast, and afterwards, I decided to go a non-traditional route, and order dessert. 

Our server certainly didn't ask me if I desired dessert. And I've never had breakfast where my server asked me if I wanted dessert. I had to ask for it, although my server didn't hesitate when I asked. 

I ordered a slice of their Banana Cream Pie. I've previously raved about their Cream Pies, and I wanted a slice, even though traditional food "rules" assign dessert to after dinner. This is an artificial division, a tyranny of the plate, where people have been conditioned to follow unwritten rules about what's proper to eat at different times during the day. Forget those rules!

I call for a revolution of the plate, calling on other rebels who seek to cast down the old food rules, and ignore the authorities who try to dictate what we eat and when we eat it. It's time to destroy these silly barriers and embrace freedom where we can choose to eat any food we want, at any time of the day. 

With all of the sweet breakfast dishes that are often available, such as pancake stacks topped by sweet fruit compotes and whipped cream, or icing-covered cinnamon rolls, its certainly not a stretch to embrace a slice of cream pie. It's more of a psychological issue, where conditioning prevents some people from considering pie, or dessert, appropriate for breakfast. 

In a similar vein, I enjoy traditional breakfast dishes for breakfast and dinner. I should be able to have a waffle or bacon and eggs at any time during there day. There are no valid reasons why such foods must be relegated only to the morning. Let us rebels enjoy them in the morning, afternoon, and evening. 

Break these food "rules" and free the plate!

2025: Favorite Food-Related Items

What were some of my favorite food-related items of the past year?

Let me continue my lists of my best recommendations and favorite restaurants and food items of 2025, addressing my Favorite Food-Related Items. This is certainly not a complete list but it's more a sampling of memorable food items I've experienced and/or posted about over the past year. This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more food-related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Favorite Culinary School: NECAT is a local culinary school which trains people from challenging backgrounds, from ex-convicts to recovering addicts, from the homeless to the chronically unemployed. NECAT fills an important need for culinary help while helping numerous people achieve a better life. It is such a worthy school, helping to transform lives, and it really touches my heart. It helps individuals while also helping the community, and I continue, year after year, to try to raise awareness of NECAT so that its good work can continue and even expand. It's one of my favorite causes and is well worthy of your continued support.

Favorite Overall Bakery: This is a very tough category, as there are a number of worthy candidates, so besides this Favorite, I've had to add some Runner-Ups as well. My Favorite is Lulu's Bakery & Pantry, in Salem, which offers a wide variety of sweet and savory treats, including a number with a West Virginia connection. The owners, Nikki & Jim, have excellent culinary resumes, and evidence the passion I seek. Pepperoni rolls, corn bread, biscuits, chocolates, cupcakes, muffins, sandwiches, and so much more. Their large Whoopie Pies are some of the best I've ever eaten, with almost a chewy brownie-like cookie filled with a sweet, creamy filling. Any time I visit the Salem area, I try to stop here to pick up something to take home. 

Runner-Up Overall Bakery: Quebrada Bakery, with four locations including one in Arlington where I most often patronize, has my favorite Snickerdoodles cookies anywhere. You can even buy the frozen cookie dough to easily cook the Snickerdoodles at home. They have plenty of other delicious baked goods, from croissants to pecan rolls. Their Whoopie Pies are also excellent, with a soft chocolate cake sandwiching a very creamy filling. 

Runner-Up Overall Bakery: Sandpiper Bakery in Ipswich is another killer bakery. Their small Whoopie Pies are delicious, but they don't carry them on a regular basis. Their Croissants are superb, buttery and flaky, and I especially love the Ham & Cheese croissants. They have plenty of other fresh and delicious baked goods, from Scones to Banana Bread. The bakery is a bit hidden, but is well worth seeking out. 

Runner-Up Overall Bakery: New to me, Eva's Little Kitchen, with locations in Bedford and West Concord, was impressive. A wide range of excellent baked goods, from the Shakshuka Breakfast Danish to their Banana Bread. I need to return again soon to check out some of their other baked goods as well as their Sandwiches.  

Favorite Greek Bakery: Greek Habits by Eva, with locations in Arlington and Peabody, is an impressive spot. Their Handmade Greek Pies, such as Ham & Cheese and Spinach, have a tasty flaky crust, and plenty of fillings. The warm Bougatsa, a Greek custard pie (pictured above), is amazing! They also sell a variety of pastries, many Greek, but also other interesting ones, including plenty of chocolate treats. In addition, they have a number of appealing sandwiches, such as Bifteki, Smoked Salmon, and Caprese. 

Favorite New Hampshire Bakery: Agape Cakes and Confections, in Raymond, New Hampshire, is a bakery with Greek influences. They make excellent Greek pies, such as Ham & Cheese and Feta, and desserts like Baklava and Galaktoboureko. They make plenty of other tasty baked goods as well, such as Chocolate Banana Cookies, Cinnamon Rolls, Whoopie Pies, Pop Tarts, and much more. If you're in the area, this is a must stop destination. 

Favorite Donut Shop: Donuts With A Difference, in Medford, is an old-school donut shop that still makes their donuts in-house. They make more traditional donuts, and not the fancy ones available at some of the other donut shops. Their donuts are fresh and delicious, and frequently even still warm when you receive them. They are also very inexpensive, roughly half the price of many other donut shops. I especially love their Coffee Rolls! 

Favorite Cider Donuts: For me, the best Cider Donuts are found at Russell Orchards in Ipswich. They don't need a sugary coating, and impress with the fullness of their apple flavor. They are lighter than the more cakey cider donuts found at many other places. Their donuts are soft and moist, with a slightly crusty exterior, and the right balance of apple and spice flavors. Each bite is pure pleasure. And when they are warm or even hot, it's hard not to eat several on your way from the cash register to your car.  

Favorite Cream Pies: Nancy's Marshview Cafe & Bakery, in Salisbury, serves Breakfast and Lunch, and also has a Bakery. At the Bakery, you can find tasty donuts, cookies, turnovers, cupcakes, eclairs, and more. However, I'm most impressed with their Cream Pies, such as their Coconut Cream Pie pictured above. Reasonably priced, the amply-sized cream pies have plenty of delicious fillings, and are topped with a creamy and sweet whipped cream. 

Runner-Up Favorite Cream Pies: The Agawam Diner, in Rowley, also makes delicious, and quite large, Cream Pies, including Coconut, Banana, and Chocolate. They are pricier than the ones at Nancy's Marshview Cafe, but you won't go wrong with their taste. They also make a lengthy list of other types of pies, from Apple to Strawberry Rhubarb, Pecan to Custard. 

Favorite Seafood Market: The Ipswich Shellfish Fish Market, which is only open on Fridays and Saturdays, is an excellent spot for seafood, both fresh and frozen. The fresh fish looks great, is reasonably priced, and tastes delicious. They have a good variety of seafood, all dependent on what's seasonally available. Their frozen seafood is also very good, such as their Swordfish steaks and Shrimp. Plus, their home-made corn bread is delicious! It's become a regular stop for me, and have always enjoyed everything I've bought. As I've said many times, you need to Eat More Seafood, and this is a great place to buy your fish.

Favorite Seafood Dinner: The Seafood didn't get any fresher than at a Bluefin Tuna dinner at Tonno in Wakefield. Chef/Owner Anthony Caturano butchered a large Bluefin Tuna in front of everyone, and then the tuna was prepared in various ways for our dining pleasure, from Tuna Tartare to Grilled Tuna Steak. The butchery demo was fascinating and the tuna dishes were amazing. It would be great to see more chefs do something similar, combining a butchery demo (whether seafood or some other protein) with a multi-course dinner. 

Favorite Japanese Food Market: Maruichi (with locations in Arlington, Brookline and Connecticut) is an excellent Japanese grocery store, and I usually go to their Arlington location. It offers a diverse selection of Japanese foods, fresh and frozen, as well as plenty of fresh vegetables, including some Asian varieties. Their meat selection is compelling and they have a superb selection of sushi-grade fish. You can get sushi meals, onigiri, and other dishes made in-house. Plus, there's a wide range of Japanese foods, from tea to sauces, candy to chips, breads and pastries, and much more. And their prices are generally very reasonable. 

Favorite New Spot For Lunch: This year, Karma Asian Fusion, in Winchester, started serving two multi-course Lunch Specials, including a Chinese Wok lunch ($22, with several different entree options) and a Sushi lunch ($28). You receive an ample portion of delicious and well-prepared food, all at a very reasonable price considering the quality and quantity. And their Sushi is amazing! Plus, they offer some reasonably priced and tasty appetizers as well, from Salmon Carpaccio to Crispy Wonton. 

Favorite Poutine: New this year, the Skinny Pancake opened in Peabody, a creperie which began in Vermont. They serve breakfast all day, and besides crepes, also offer burgers, burritos, salads, and more. One of their sides is Poutine, crispy French fries topped with Vermont Cheese Curds and Screamin' Ridge Farm Gravy. All of the elements are excellent, from the crisp fries (which hold up with to the gravy), the squeaky curds, and the flavorful gravy. You can also order the Poutine with a vegan vegetable gravy.

Favorite Pizza: The most impressive pizza I enjoyed this past year was the Roasted Garlic White Pizza at Posto, at Assembly Row in Somerville. They used to be in Davis Square but moved to Assembly Row this year. The pizza was made with bacon, mozzarella, roasted garlic, parmesan, oregano, and aleppo pepper. I've never seen more garlic on a pizza, large and plump cloves of roasted garlic. The thin-crusted pizza also had a nice char, and the crust was also both crisp and chewy. Superb! 

Favorite Sandwich: Anthony's Italian Specialties, in Stoneham, has long made some of my favorite sandwiches, which are always over-large and filled with quality ingredients. They are famous for their Italian Sandwiches, but they make plenty of other excellent sandwiches, from Pastrami to Chicken Parmigiana. And their sandwiches, which come in several different sizes, are reasonably priced. My current favorite is their Chicken Cutlet with Prosciutto & Fresh Mozzarella, topped by oil, seasonings and balsamic glaze. The above is on their braided roll, and you can see that it's large enough to feed two people, or one very hungry person. Such a delicious combination of flavors and textures. 

Favorite Unusual Meat: This year, I purchased some ground camel at Savenor's Butchery in Cambridge. I made some camel burgers with the meat, adding only some Berbere spices (an Ethiopian spice blend). The burger tasted much like a beef burger, and you probably wouldn't have tasted any difference, but the camel is lower in fat and cholesterol than beef. Many people might be wary of eating ground camel, but if they tasted it, they would have liked it, and wouldn't have tasted anything objectionable. And it's better for your health. 

Favorite Farm Stand: Tendercrop Farm, with locations in Wenham, Newbury and Dover, New Hampshire, has it all, from fresh produce to a bakery, a butcher shop to frozen foods. Their butcher shop, which uses animals they raise on their own farm, has delicious, tender and flavorful meats, from Filet Mignon to Boneless Pork Chops, as well as a variety of marinated meats. Prices are very reasonable, less than many other butcher shops in the area. They also carry a large assortment of fruits and vegetables, many locally grown. Whenever I'm in the area, I stop by the farm to stock up, and am never disappointed. 

Favorite Food & Drink Shopping Itinerary: This year, I posted an itinerary for a food & drink Road Trip to Ipswich and the surrounding towns and cities. The itinerary has about 14 locations for food & drink shopping and dining, from the Clam Box to the Sandpiper Bakery. And it will be updated in the near future, adding even more locations. On numerous Fridays this past year, I've visited the spots on this itinerary, often hitting 10 or more of them in a single day. I probably will create more Road Trips in 2026. 

Food History Articles: During the pandemic, it was tough for many food and drink writers, as restaurants were closed and large scale food and drink events were canceled. Some writers simply wrote sporadically. However, for myself, I've devoted many hours to researching and writing numerous historical food articles, combing through thousands of newspapers and books. I've especially delved into the origins of numerous foods, trying to seek out their true origins, and not just accepting the unsubstantiated claims of others. I've continued to do so, finding great joy in the research and discoveries that I've found. Here are the historical food articles I completed this past year. 

• The Origin of the Steak Bomb
• The History of Sake Brewing in the U.S. (4 parts)
• The Origins of Moo Shu Pork in the U.S.
• A Brief History of Teriyaki 
• An Early History Of Boston's Italian Restaurants (2 parts)
• Chef Prince Ranji Smile: The First Indian Chef in the U.S
• The Origin of Scali Bread: A Fitchburg Original 
• Chinatown: A History of Henry Wong & Shanghai Printing
• A History of Bread & Butter at Chinese Restaurants    
• Origins of Anadama Bread, a New England Classic

Favorite Old Tradition (Which Needs a Revival): In 2022, while researching some other items, I stumbled upon a fascinating old Thanksgiving tradition, having donuts on your Thanksgiving table! This tradition extends back at least to the 1830s, and probably to the start of the 19th century. It apparently started in New England, but expanded across the entire country, even to Hawaii. Sometime in the later 1940s or early 1950s, the tradition largely died off, and the reasons are obscure. It's time to revive this tradition! For every Thanksgiving since my article, I've been having donuts as part of my Thanksgiving table and have been encouraging others to do the same, some who have also adopted this tradition. This year, I expanded my original article, adding even more fascinating information. Hopefully in 2026, even more people will embrace this old tradition. Who wouldn't love donuts on Thanksgiving? 

Unfortunate Restaurant News: Tambo 22, a Peruvian-Italian restaurant in Chelsea, will be closing its doors on December 20, 2024. They have stated, "The past few years have challenged the entire restaurant world. The pressure of rising costs, staffing obstacles, and the realities of our location made this one of the hardest decisions we’ve ever had to make." Chef Jose Duarte, Taylor & Brian Corcoran, and the rest of their team created an excellent restaurant, with a unique and delicious cuisine, and they should be very proud of their accomplishments. I've known Chef Duarte for 15 years, and he's one of the nicest and most talented chefs in the industry, passionate and compassionate. It will be a great loss to the local restaurant industry when this restaurant is gone. I wish them all the best of luck in the future and hope they will return soon with another culinary endeavor.

**********

What were some of your favorite food-related items this year?

Agawam Diner: Cream Pie Delights!

The Agawam Diner, located at 166 Newburyport Turnpike (U.S. Route 1) in Rowley, celebrates its 85th Anniversary this year. It was originally established, with a Worcester Lunch Car, in Ipswich in 1940 and seven years later was replaced by a larger lunch car. After 1950, the diner was moved to its current Rowley location. 

They have an excellent breakfast menu, with delicious pancakes, but they also have a bakery in their basement where they produce numerous pies and pastries. If you just stop by the diner, they have some whole pies and pastries available for purchase, but if you want to ensure you get a specific type of pie, you should order ahead of time. Over the last few months, I've stopped by the diner a few times and purchased their three cream pies: Coconut, Banana and Chocolate. 

Each cream pie costs $30, which I feel is reasonable for the size, quality and taste of these pies. They feel heavy in the large box, and you realize you're not getting some tiny pie. Please note that the diner only accepts cash. 

The Coconut Cream Pie, like all of their cream pies, is topped by a relatively thick layer of creamy and light whipped cream, which also isn't overly sweet. This pie is topped with some toasted coconut, and the interior filling has a rich coconut flavor as well. Once again, it's creamy and delicious, but isn't overly sweet either. The pastry crust is thin and flaky, and not the heavy crust you find with some other pies. Overall, it feels like a lighter dessert, so you might be tempted to enjoy a second slice. It's easily large enough to satisfy 6-8 people, dependent on the size of the slices. 

The Banana Cream Pie was equally as delicious and light, with good-sized slices of banana within the filling. 

The Chocolate Cream Pie was just as delicious and light as the other two pies. This pie was covered with chocolate sprinkles and its chocolate filling was rich and creamy. 

I would highly recommend all three cream pies. They are large but taste light, with a fresh whipped cream topping and creamy & delicious fillings. The pie crust is thin and crispy and overall, the pies taste like a home-made pie. Out of the three, it's very difficult for me to select a favorite, but if I had to choose, it would be the Coconut Cream. 

On my future visits to the Agawam Diner, I'll try some of their other pies, such as the Pecan, Apple, and Custard. They also carry other pies, including Lemon Meringue, Blueberry, Cherry, Strawberry Rhubarb, Squash, and more. 

So, go to the Diner for breakfast, and buy a pie to take home with you. And if you want a specific pie, order ahead. 

Rant: We Need More Bread Pudding!

For many years, I've been saying that we need more Bread Pudding, more restaurants willing to place it onto their dessert menus, more bakeries willing to offer it, and I'd even love to see a bakery specialize in Bread Pudding. There once was a bread pudding bakery in California, which advertised 108 flavors, broken down into Classics, Chocolates, Fruits and Seasonal. Currently, there's a Bread Pudding Company in Florida, which offer over 40 different flavors. 

Why can't such a bakery start up in the Boston area? Well, I have recently found one, Boston's Bitchn' Bread Pudding in Swampscott, which offered about 20 different flavors, from Bourbon Pecan to Fluffernutter. However, its website states: "We are currently closed for reorganization until further notice." Hopefully, it will reopen in the near future, and I'll definitely be keeping an eye on its status. 

The origins of Bread Pudding extends back to the 11th century, as people tried to find ways to use their stale bread. A couple hundred years later, in England, it was known as "poor man's pudding" because it was popular with the lower classes. Essentially, Bread Pudding is made with some type of bread over which a custard-like sauce is poured before it is cooked. Numerous other ingredients can be added, from nuts to fruits, and you can use any type of bread, or bread-like food, such as muffins or donuts. It can be savory or sweet, although sweet versions are most common. 

The earliest recipe for Bread Pudding I've found in Massachusetts newspapers was from 1825. The Springfield Weekly Republican (MA), June 29, 1825, printed the above recipe.   

Another recipe appeared in the New England Farmer (MA), January 11, 1832. 

A significant variation, a recipe for Chocolate Bread Pudding, was provided in the Boston Globe (MA), May 8, 1898.

Bread Pudding is relatively easy to make, versatile and can be absolutely delicious so why isn't it more prevalent? I still don't understand why it remains relatively rare in the Boston+ area. A few local restaurants offer Bread Pudding, and my favorite is created by Chef Marisa Iocco at Spiga, in Needham, and which is pictured at the top of this post. 

I first tasted her Bread Pudding back in 2009, and it captivated me then, being just as delicious now as it was all those years ago. I've told people they should start their meal with the Bread Pudding, to prevent them from being otherwise too full to eat it after dinner. If you'd like to make her Bread Pudding at home, Chef Iocco allowed me to post a recipe for her Bread Pudding, though you're on your own for creating an interesting sauce to top it.

Ingredients
2 lbs. crusty, day-old Italian bread
1 quart heavy cream
1 quart whole milk
6 eggs
2 cups sugar
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

Directions:
--Remove the bread heels and cut bread into small cubes
--In a saucepan, combine cream, milk, sugar and vanilla bean, and bring to a slow boil. Remove the mixture from the heat and allow it to cool and steep for one hour.
--In a bowl, whisk the eggs, then pour in the vanilla-cream mixture and stir. Next, add the bread cubes and allow it to sit just long enough to soak up most of the liquid.
--Pour mixture into a rectagular cake pan at least 4” deep. Cover tightly with foil. Place that pan into a slightly larger pan, then add about two inches of water to the larger pan to create what’s called a “bain marie” or water bath. This provides moisture during baking.
--Bake at 375 degrees for two hours. Remove from oven; let pudding “set” briefly. Cut into squares. Serves 8 generously.

Readers, would you support a local bakery specializing in bread pudding? What local restaurants have you enjoyed bread pudding? Do you make bread pudding at home?

(This is a revision/expansion of a prior article which is just as relevant now as it once was.)

2024: Favorite Food-Related Items

What were some of my favorite food-related items of the past year?

Let me continue my lists of my best recommendations and favorite restaurants and food items of 2024, addressing my Favorite Food-Related Items. This is certainly not a complete list but it's more a sampling of memorable food items I've experienced and/or posted about over the past year. This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more food-related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Favorite Culinary School: NECAT is a local culinary school which trains people from challenging backgrounds, from ex-convicts to recovering addicts, from the homeless to the chronically unemployed. NECAT fills an important need for culinary help while helping numerous people achieve a better life. It is such a worthy school, helping to transform lives, and it really touches my heart. It helps individuals while also helping the community, and I continue, year after year, to try to raise awareness of NECAT so that its good work can continue and even expand. It's one of my favorite causes and is well worthy of your continued support.

Favorite Overall Bakery: Lulu's Bakery & Pantry, in Salem, offers a wide variety of sweet and savory treats, including a number with a West Virginia connection. The owners, Nikki & Jim, have excellent culinary resumes, and evidence the passion I seek. Pepperoni rolls, corn bread, biscuits, chocolates, cupcakes, muffins, sandwiches, and so much more. Their large Whoopie Pies are some of the best I've ever eaten, with almost a chewy brownie-like cookie filled with a sweet, creamy filling. Any time I visit the Salem area, I try to stop here to pick up something to take home. Highly recommended!

Runner-Up Overall Bakery: Quebrada Bakery, with four locations including one in Arlington where I most often patronize, has my favorite Snickerdoodles cookies anywhere. You can even buy the frozen cookie dough to easily cook the Snickerdoodles at home. They have plenty of other delicious baked goods, from croissants to pecan rolls. And on one of my most recent trips, I tried their Whoopie Pie, which was excellent, with a soft chocolate cake sandwiching a very creamy filling. 

Runner-Up Overall Bakery: Sandpiper Bakery in Ipswich was a new find to me this year. Their small Whoopie Pies were also delicious, but they don't seem to have them on a regular basis. Their Croissants are superb, buttery and flaky, and I especially love the Ham & Cheese croissants. They have plenty of other fresh and delicious baked goods. The bakery is a bit hidden, but is well worth seeking out. 

Favorite Greek Bakery: Greek Habits by Eva, with locations in Arlington (which just opened in 2024) and Peabody, is an impressive spot. Their Handmade Greek Pies, such as Ham & Cheese and Spinach, have a tasty flaky crust, and plenty of fillings. The warm Bougatsa, a Greek custard pie (pictured above), is amazing! They also sell a variety of pastries, many Greek, but also other interesting ones, including plenty of chocolate treats. In addition, they have a number of appealing sandwiches, such as Bifteki, Smoked Salmon, and Caprese. 

Favorite Bread Bakery: Mamadou's Artisan Bakery, in Winchester, is my favorite spot for fresh, delicious breads, especially their Sesame Semolina. They also produce excellent Croissants and Chocolate Chip cookies. It's a small take-out spot, open Wednesday to Sunday, and run by very nice people. Get there early each day for the best selection.

Favorite Donut Shop: Donuts With A Difference, in Medford, is an old-school donut shop that still makes their donuts in-house. They make more traditional donuts, and not the fancy ones available at some of the newer donut shops. Their donuts are fresh and delicious, and frequently even still warm. They are also very inexpensive, roughly half the price of many other donut shops. I especially love their Coffee Rolls! 

Favorite Seafood Market: The Ipswich Shellfish Fish Market, which is only open on Fridays and Saturdays, is an excellent spot for seafood, both fresh and frozen. The fresh fish looks great, is reasonably priced, and tastes delicious. They have a good variety of seafood, all dependent on what's seasonally available. Their frozen seafood is also very good, such as their Swordfish steaks and Shrimp. Plus, their home-made corn bread is delicious! I've shopped there numerous times this year, and have always enjoyed everything I've bought. As I've said many times, you need to Eat More Seafood, and this is a great place to buy your fish.

Favorite Japanese Food Market: Maruichi (with locations in Arlington, Brookline and Connecticut) is an excellent Japanese grocery store, and I usually go to their Arlington location. It offers a diverse selection of Japanese foods, fresh and frozen, as well as plenty of fresh vegetables, including some Asian varieties. Their meat selection is compelling and they have a superb selection of sushi-grade fish. You can get sushi meals, onigiri, and other dishes made in-house. Plus, there's a wide range of Japanese foods, from tea to sauces, candy to chips, breads and pastries, and much more. And their prices are generally very reasonable. 

Favorite Restaurant Recovery: In July, two days after enjoying lunch at the Jana Grill & Bakery in Watertown, a truck slammed into the restaurant, forcing it to shut down. The restaurant serves delicious Armenian, Georgian, Slavic and Mediterranean cuisine. One of my favorite dishes there is the Ajarian Khachapuri, a Georgian cheese bread (pictured above). Fortunately, the restaurant has made repairs and reopened this month. I look forward to dining there again. 

Most Anticipated New Restaurant: The Xenia Hospitality Group, which is behind Krasi, Bar Vlaha, Greco and Hecate (some of my favorite spots), has recently opened Kaia, in the South End, a Greek restaurant centered on the cuisine of the Aegean. I attended an opening preview but haven't dined there yet. However, based on their prior restaurants, I expect great things from Kaia, and will be making it one of my first restaurants visits in 2025.  

Favorite Barbecue Sauce: Last Spring, A Tavola held a Bourbon & BBQ dinner, and Sous Chef David Paige created a BBQ sauce for some of the dishes. The recipe is about seven-years old, and David has been tweaking it over the years, improving it with time. The dishes were delicious, and I enjoyed the tang and complexity of the sauce. Fortunately, they also sold bottles of the BBQ sauce and I bought a couple to take home. I've since used the sauce for a few different dishes, such as steak tips, and it has been a great addition. The restaurant has continued to sell this sauce by the bottle and I highly recommend you purchase some. It would make a great holiday gift.  

Food History Articles: During the pandemic, it was tough for many food and drink writers, as restaurants were closed and large scale food and drink events were canceled. Some writers simply wrote sporadically. However, for myself, I've devoted many hours to researching and writing numerous historical food articles, combing through thousands of newspapers and books. I've especially delved into the origins of numerous foods, trying to seek out their true origins, and not just accepting the unsubstantiated claims of others. I've continued to do so, finding great joy in the research and discoveries that I've found. Here are the historical food articles I completed this past year. And I have been working on a few more articles which will see light in early 2025.

• The Origins of Spaghetti Alla Carbonara
• Hot Dog Joe: From Simple Hot Dog Vendor to National Celebrity
• George Clemmons: Hot Dogs & Murder Accusations
• The Origins of Chicken Fingers: Traditional & Chinese
• The Origins of Chicken Fried Steak
• Hummingbird Muffins: Some History 
• The History of Cashew Chicken & Springfield-Style Cashew Chicken
• The Origins of the Frozen Drumstick & Nutty Buddy
• The Origins of the Orange Julius: Who Actually Invented It?

Favorite Old Tradition (Which Needs a Revival): In 2022, while researching some other items, I stumbled upon a fascinating old Thanksgiving tradition, having donuts on your Thanksgiving table! This tradition extends back at least to the 1830s, and lasted for over 100 years, until the 1940s. It apparently started in New England, but expanded across the entire country, even to Hawaii. It's time to revive this tradition! For the last two Thanksgivings, I've been having donuts as part of my Thanksgiving table and have been encouraging others to do the same, some who have also adopted this tradition. Hopefully in 2025, even more people will embrace this old tradition. Who wouldn't love donuts on Thanksgiving? 

Unfortunate Restaurant News: The Moldova Restaurant, which has been one of my favorite restaurants, will be closing its doors on December 29, 2024. They have stated, "Business conditions in 2024 have made it unfeasible to continue operating the restaurant as a business, and as a result we have lost our lease." This was such a unique and delicious restaurant, the only restaurant I know in the area which presented Moldovan cuisine. They will be surely missed. I wish the owners, Artur & Sandra Andronic, the best of luck in the future and hope they will return soon with another culinary endeavor.

**********

What were some of your favorite food-related items this year?