Rant: Candy Apples vs Caramel Apples

With the advent of fall, candy and caramel apples can often be found at some local farms, farmers markers, festivals and carnivals. You may find them covered with coconut, nuts, colored sprinkles or other sweet or savory toppings. Last Friday, I visited a major candy store in Rowley, and they had a large selection of caramel apples, but not a single candied apple. That bothered me, and is far too common. Caramel apples have far eclipsed candied apples, and it has become so much tougher to find a good candied apple.  

Before we get into a discussion of the merits of each type, let's examine their origins and history. 

Most sources claim that red candy apples were invented first, by William Kolb, a candy-maker in Newark, New Jersey around 1908. Based on my own research, that origin tale is false, as candy apples existed prior to 1908, at least as far back as 1898. Sources also claim that caramel apples were first developed by Kraft Foods in the 1950s. That again seems to be false, as they existed as far back as 1904, although Kraft might have helped popularize them.

Although I found multiple references to "candy apples" in 19th century newspapers, the vast majority of the references weren't specific enough to identify their actual nature. Some of the 19th century references also seemed to indicate that a number of the references to "candy apples" were merely a type of candy, and not what we think of when we think "candy apple." 

For example, in the Hartford Courant (CT), November 26, 1896, there was a reference to "candy apples" but they were described as "... all of the colors of the rainbow, each was as large as a marble, and all were mounted on sticks." The article seems to indicate they were a type of candy, and didn't include any actual apples.

However, I was able to find multiple, specific and detailed references to candy apples which predated their alleged invention in 1908. The earliest reference I've found so far is from the New York Herald (NY), September 17, 1898, which noted, "In some parts of the town may be found at this season a confection called apple-on-a-stick, a small apple that has been impaled by a stick three or four inches in length and then dipped in candied sugar, the stick serving as a handle to hold the apple by in eating it." The article continues, "The candied sugar is perhaps colored red; it is flavored maybe with cinnamon." They were sold for one cent each. It then concluded, "Standing in rows in a shallow pan in a confectioner's window, they present an inviting appearance, and they meet with a ready sale. Apples-on-a-stick are only sold in the fall."

This article would be reprinted in newspapers in Pennsylvania and West Virginia. 

The St. Louis Republican (MO), November 5, 1900, published an article about local candy shops that were lowering their prices. It also mentioned that one of the shops had introduced a "Russian delicacy." The article continued, "The new thing was candied apples on a stick. The apples were raw but the candy was red and sticky, and altogether winning." A competing candy store quickly learned how to create these candied apples, and the price dropped from 3 for a nickel, to one penny each, and finally to 2 for a penny. 

Death by candy apple! The Jersey Journal (NJ), August 22, 1903, reported that the Deputy Health Inspector had prepared a report for the Mayor of the current health danger of apples-on-a-stick. These apple sticks, which cost one cent, had been prepared with contaminated milk, leading to a number of infantile diseases, such as dysentary, marasmus, and summer diarrhea. The free dispensaries issued 715 prescriptions in one week due to these tainted candy apples, and all sales of such apples were then prohibited. 

As a follow-up, the Jersey Journal (NJ), September 21, 1909, noted that stores were once again selling apples-on-a-stick, and it was said a confectioner shop was selling 300 a day.  

The Buffalo Evening News, July 19, 1904, provided a recipe for a "candy apple" that stated "place apples pierce with bits of wood (like skewers) where the stems had been. These are placed in a pan and covered with a common brown taffy." This isn't a red candy apple but seems more similar to the caramel apple, as it was covered with a softer coating.

There was another reference to a red candy apple prior to 1908, in The Times Herald (MI), December 9, 1905, which published an article about the holiday season and mentioned "Red candy apples for the holiday time may be easily made at home by dipping small perfect apples in a bath of hot candy colored a brilliant red."

As for caramel apples, I found a recipe which extends back to 1904, decades earlier than Kraft's alleged invention, although it didn't include a stick. The Kansas Agitator (KS), November 25, 1904, printed a recipe for "Caramel Apples" and stated, "Steam sufficient pared and cored apples, and when cold, pour over them a thick caramel sauce....Whipped cream improve them, but is not necessary."

The Minnesota Journal (MN), January 27, 1908, also had another recipe for Caramel Apples, but again no stick was required. Their recipe though added nuts to the caramel sauce on the apples. The Osawatomie Globe (KS), March 12, 1908, included the same recipe but added some introductory comments, noting "Caramel apples are a dainty dish served at a Boston restaurant which caters to the feminine taste." That recipe, with the introduction, would be reprinted in numerous newspapers across the country. 

The Kansas City Star (KS), December 1, 1911, provided a recipe for Apples on a Stick.

The stick appears! The Seattle Star (WA), October 2, 1931, provided a recipe for a caramel apple, as a Halloween treat, and the apple was put on a stick. The apple was covered in caramel, without any nuts or other toppings. The Nebraska Farm (NE), October 21, 1931, noted that, due to Halloween, "All over the country, children are making apples-on-a-stick." The article provided a recipe for a caramel apple on a stick, but also covered with shredded coconut. So, it is also clear that caramel apples weren't created by a Kraft employee in the 1950s.

Candy apples, with their distinctive red candy shell, are usually made with a flavored boiled sugar recipe, while Caramel apples are covered with melted caramel. There's a huge textural difference between the two, one with a hard outer shell and the other with a gooey exterior. The popularity of each varies across the country, though I've been noticing over the last several years, to my dismay, an increase in the ubiquity of caramel apples locally. 

I love red candy apples, especially covered with coconut. It's often a challenge to take that first crunchy bite into the hard shell, but it's rewarding. With a fresh, crisp apple, the candy, coconut and fruit make for a very appealing treat. For me, the caramel apple fails. I love caramel, from a nice sweet sauce atop ice cream to a salted, gooey center of a dark chocolate. But I don't like its soft gooey texture on a caramel apple. It's too soft, and just doesn't seem complementary to the crisp, juicy apple. Plus, maybe it's also a bit sentimental, as growing up I most often enjoyed red candy apples.

Why has the popularity of red candy apples waned? What is behind the rise of caramel apples? I don't have answers to these questions but I want to be able to more readily find red candy apples. Where are they hiding?

Do you prefer red candy apples or caramel apples? And why?

(This article has been revised/expanded from a prior article)

A History of Chinese Fried Rice & Molasses in Massachusetts

Chinese fried rice in the U.S. extends back at least to 1898, and likely prior to that time. The Topeka State Journal (KS), January 5, 1898, noted a multiple-course dinner held in New York City Chinatown, at a restaurant on 14 Mott Street, which included “fried rice.” Maybe the first reference to fried rice in Massachusetts was in 1915. The Transcript-Telegram (MA), April 15, 1915, published a large advertisement for a Chinese & American Restaurant in Holyoke, with a listing for "Fried Rice" for 25 cents. And by 1916, people were already sending inquiries to the newspaper seeking a recipe for making Chinese fried rice.

If you've read any of the articles with a history of New England Chinese Food, you'll usually see the claim that local Chinese restaurants used molasses in their fried rice. This was allegedly because molasses was so prominent in the Boston area, and it made the fried rice darker in color, as well as sweeter. Those claims also seem to indicate molasses was something new to the Chinese. However, none of those articles presented any evidence to support their claim, which has made me question it. Thus, I did some of my own research, to try to get to the truth.

In brief, I didn't find any evidence of a local Chinese restaurant using "molasses" until 1957, and even then, it's not quite what you might think. There's an important distinction which is ignored, and I hope to illuminate the issue for my readers. 

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Probably the first actual Chinese cookbook, and not just a pamphlet, was self-published in 1911, Chinese Cookery in the Home Kitchen by Jessie Louise Nolton. It included three recipes for Fried Rice, including Fried Rice (Chinese Style), Fried Rice (Canton Style), and Fried Rice With Chicken. This might have been the first printed recipes for Chinese fried rice. 

 

The recipe for Fried Rice (Chinese Style) didn't include molasses, or even soy sauce for that fact.

The recipe for Fried Rice (Canton Style) also didn't include molasses, or even soy sauce.

Maybe the first newspaper in Massachusetts to present a recipe for Fried Rice was the Springfield Evening Union (MA), July 10, 1917. The recipe only called for 1 cup of cold boiled rice, 1 small onion, 1 egg, and a teaspoon of butter. No soy sauce or molasses. It would be nearly twenty years before a host of other recipes for Fried Rice would appear in Massachusetts newspapers.   

The Boston Herald, May 23, 1936, presented a recipe for Fried Rice, Chinese Style, from "... a famous Chinese restaurant here in town..." but it wasn't identified. No soy sauce or molasses was used in this recipe.  

The Springfield Daily Republican (MA), April 24, 1938, published a recipe for "Fried Rice (from China)" which called for boiled chicken, bamboo shoots, mushrooms, sugar, stock, and soy sauce. However, there was no molasses used in this recipe. 

 

The Lowell Sun (MA), June 11, 1938, had a recipe for Ha Chow Fan, fried rice with shrimps, which called for soy sauce but no molasses. The recipe also mentioned you could add chopped ham, diced roast pork of sliced fresh crabmeat instead of the shrimp.  

The Boston Globe (MA), March 22, 1940, printed the above recipe for Fried Rice, Chinese Style, and I'll note that "Chinese sauce" commonly refers to "soy sauce."

The Worcester Daily Telegram (MA), January 5, 1942, printed this recipe for Fried Rice and Pork, but once again, no molasses was in the recipe. 

The Worcester Daily Telegram (MA), March 5, 1942, presented this recipe for Moo Goo Chow Fon (Fried Rice with Shrimp). 

The Boston Herald, June 14, 1942, had a recipe for Chow Fon (Fried Rice with Ham), calling for soy sauce, but no molasses.

The Boston Traveler, August 6, 1942, had this recipe for Fried Rice. 

The Boston Herald, May 23, 1943, presented a recipe of Fried Rice with Shrimp. 

The Boston Traveler, June 17, 1943, printed a recipe for Chinese Fried Rice. 

The Worcester Telegram (MA), February 8, 1944, published this recipe for Fried Rice with Eggs. 

The Boston Herald, July 12, 1944, had the above recipe for Chinese Fried Rice. 

The Worcester Telegram (MA), May 8, 1948, published this recipe for Chinese Fried Rice.

The Boston Sunday Herald, June 18, 1950, had a recipe for Chinese Lobster Sub Gum Fried Rice. 

The first half of the 1950s continued to see Fried Rice recipes, all without using molasses. Why was this so if local Chinese restaurants were allegedly using molasses in their fried rice? Was the use of molasses more of later addition, and not originally part of the first fried rice dishes? 

In 1957, the issue acquired some clarification, and the original claims about the use of molasses in fried rice probably need some revision. 

The Boston Traveler (MA), May 16, 1957, had an article about the famous Cathay House, located in Boston's Chinatown, which was owned by Anita and Gordon Chue. I previously wrote an article about Anita Chue, a fascinating Chinese woman who made a great impact in the local area. It was noted that this was the first time that the Chues were giving out any of their recipes. They presented their Cathay House Fried Rice, which was said “But for Traveler readers, Anita has simplified their wonderful Fried Rice…”

As you can see, the recipe included the use of "1 tablespoon Chinese molasses." Anita also added, “The Chinese molasses may be purchased at any grocery in Chinatown. Don’t substitute molasses from your pantry shelf, Anita cautions. It makes the rice too sweet. Just omit it.” Cathay House was opened in 1945, so their use of Chinese molasses in the fried rice could have started as early as their opening, or it might have started sometime afterwards. 

Chinese molasses! That, and not regular molasses, may be the secret to New England Chinese Fried rice. Once you learn more about Chinese molasses, it also makes logical sense. The addition of Chinese molasses in fried rice in the local area might have originated in the late 1940s or 1950s. 

We need to understand that China was producing molasses-like products for about two thousand years. So, when Chinese immigrants arrived in the Boston area, they were already familiar with molasses. They were already used to using "Chinese molasses", also called "bead molasses," in their cooking. This is a lighter type of molasses, which is less sweet, and was often used for adding a deeper brown color to dishes such as chow mein and chop suey. It possessed more of a savory taste, with hints of smokiness. The typical Boston molasses was too sweet and heavy for the Chinese cooks.  

Chinese molasses was being imported into the U.S. as least as far back as 1850. The Daily Alta California (CA), August 11, 1850, had a brief ad selling 2000 gallons of “Chinese Molasses.” The Daily Pacific News (CA), March 13, 1851, also had a brief advertisement selling “Chinese Molasses,” which it said was a “superior article.” The American Union (WV), October 23, 1857, published a letter from Ohio, discussing Chinese molasses which was now being produced in Ohio, and it retailed for 75 cents per gallon.

The Boston Globe, January 28, 1927, published this advertisement for Fuji Bead Molasses, stating it was "Fine for gravies--and for browning." The Fuji Trading Co. was established around 1910 in Chicago, and sold a variety of Asian food products. So we can see that bead molasses was available in Boston at least as far back as the 1920s.

The Boston Globe, January 31, 1930, had an ad for the Fuji Chop Suey Sauce, and it provided a recipe which also called for their bead molasses. 

The Herald News (MA), March 19, 1931, had an ad for Steiger's Market, which sold  imported bead molasses.

The Boston Evening Globe, February 16, 1934, had another ad for the Fuji Bead Molasses, noting it added flavor and color to Chop Suey. 

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Many other recipes, printed in Boston area newspapers, for Chinese fried rice in the 1960s and on still didn't include the use of molasses, although people started believing molasses was used by restaurants. However, it seems unlikely that the heavy molasses produced in the Boston area would be used in fried rice, when the Chinese had a lengthy history of the use of the lighter Chinese molasses. The bead molasses had the benefit of being less sweet, adding a savory and smoky aspect, and providing a darker brown color to the rice. It was also readily available to Chinese restaurants. So, rather than use heavy molasses in your own home Chinese recipes, seek out Chinese molasses instead.

National Monte Cristo Day: The Origins of This Delicious Sandwich

Happy National Monte Cristo Day! 

For over 100 years, the Monte Cristo has existed although the exact date of its invention is unknown. The sandwich holiday was established in 2015, by the Bennigan’s restaurant chain, to honor their own Monte Cristo sandwich, which is made with honey wheat bread, ham, roasted turkey, Swiss and American cheeses before it's batter-dipped, gently fried, and dusted with powdered sugar. It's also served with red raspberry preserves, if you wish to dip it. 

A Monte Cristo sandwich is essentially ham, turkey and Swiss cheese between two pieces of French toast, though there are plenty of variations across the country. For example, the cheese might be different, the sandwich might be grilled or fried, it may contain spicy mustard, it might be served with maple syrup, and so on.  

I've long been fond of the Monte Cristo, although I prefer it as a savory variation. I don't want it covered by powdered sugar or syrup. What makes it special to me is the French toast bread, a great vehicle for the ham, turkey and cheese, but which also would make an excellent vehicle for plenty of other fillings as well. I enjoyed such variations as pastrami and cheese, chicken cutlets, and cheeseburger, each of which was elevated by the use of French toast. We need more sandwiches with French Toast as the bread! 

No one seems to know the exact origins of the Monte Cristo though it's believed to be a variation of the French croque-monsieur, which is a grilled ham and cheese sandwich, with numerous variations, that was likely invented in the late nineteenth century. Literally translated, "croque monsieur" basically means "mister crunch." The sandwich became famous when it appeared at a French cafe, Le Bel Âge, owned by Michel Lunarca, in Paris around 1910. 

However, the croque-monsieur received almost no publicity in U.S. newspapers until about 1928, years after the Monte Cristo was created. The earliest reference I found to the croque-monsieur was in the Boston Evening Transcript (MA), April 11, 1908. There was an article about a lunch at a Paris restaurant, and one of the offerings was a croque-monsieur, for 50 cents, and the article noted, "We have no idea what croque monsieur or Orloff  veal might be,..."

The next reference was from The Reading Eagle (PA), August 29, 1915, which discussed local women contributing recipes to a cookbook intended to help Belgian war sufferers. One contributor provided a recipe for croque-monsieur. And then there no other newspaper references until 1928.

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Although most sources allege the Monte Cristo was created during the 1920s, it seems more probable it was created during the 1910s, and maybe the later half of that decade. The earliest reference I found to this sandwich was in the San Francisco Chronicle (CA), February 18, 1920, which printed a restaurant advertisement for Tait’s Downtown. The large ad detailed a Special After-Theater Supper, and listed numerous dishes of which you could choose two. Under Sandwiches, there was a mention of the Monte Cristo, although no explanation was given.

It also seems probable that the Monte Cristo originated in California, as all of the mentions of the sandwich during the 1920s and early 1930s indicated it was available in California, and there weren't any references to it being available elsewhere. A Hawaiian newspaper in 1929 provided a recipe for the Monte Cristo, but didn't indicate that any Hawaiian restaurants offered the sandwich. It's curious that no one has ever stepped forward to claim credit for inventing the sandwich. 

The Los Angeles Times (CA), May 24, 1924 and Sacramento Union (CA), June 6, 1924, both printed the same recipe for the Monte Cristo Sandwich, the first newspapers to do so. The sandwiches contained only American full cream choice and slices of boiled ham, and not any turkey. The sandwiches though were dipped in egg and fried. 

The San Francisco Chronicle (CA), May 11, 1927, published a restaurant ad which offered a Monte Cristo Sandwich for 50 cents, the same price as their Chicken Sandwich. 

A reader submitted a recipe for the Monte Cristo sandwich to the San Francisco Examiner (CA), May 23, 1927. This recipe was different from the previous one, using pimento cheese with boiled ham. In addition, it called for a tablespoon of cocktail sauce. It too was dipped in beaten egg and fried. 

The San Francisco Examiner (CA), May 27, 1927, provided another recipe, and also stated that the Monte Cristo was a “tearoom specialty.” This is the first recipe to use Swiss cheese with the boiled ham, although still no turkey. 

The San Antonio Light (TX), October 18, 1928, Omaha Morning Bee-News (NE), October 19, 1928, and El Paso Times (TX), October 20, 1928, all briefly mentioned, “Snapshots of Hollywood collected at random: Seena Owen and Mae Sunday gossiping over a Monte Cristo sandwich at the Montmartre café.”

The Los Angeles Evening Citizen News (CA), February 8, 1929, printed another recipe, called for a specific bread, the Langendorf Royal bread, a famous bread brand at that time. This recipe called for cream cheese, mashed with a little cream. It also asked for a slice of chicken or ham. Then, it's mentioned that it should be served with jelly or relish, the first time this addition is noted. 

The Los Angeles Times (CA), August 9, 1929,  provided a recipe almost exactly as they previously did on May 24, 1924, except this time they mentioned garnishing it with pickle slices. 

The Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), August 29, 1929, was the first non-California newspaper to provide a Monte Cristo recipe, but this was simply a copy of the one above from the Los Angeles Times.  

The San Jose Evening News (CA), May 5, 1930, had an advertisement for a Coffee Shop with a partial menu, including a Monte Cristo Sandwich for 50 cents. 

It wasn't until 1934, that it seems likely the Monte Cristo started being available outside of California. The Tulsa Tribune (OK), December 3, 1934, printed a recipe for the sandwich, provided by Chef Harry Micas. It was noted to be "an unusual sandwich," good for lunch or a midnight feast. First, the bread was covered in egg with milk or cream, and then fried. After that, the bread was topped with boiled ham, chicken meat and a slice of cheese. Finally, it was toasted under a broiler, and served with spiced apricot. This may be the first recipe calling for both ham and chicken (but not turkey). It's also the first that calls for milk or cream added to the egg before coating the bread. 

The Des Moines Tribune (IA), December 22, 1934, in an ad for Harvest Bread, provided a recipe from Herman, the Health Chef. The recipe called for Swiss cheese and slices of Baked Virginia ham, but no poultry. The sandwich was also to be dipped in beaten egg, "similar to the method of making French toast." Curiously, the sandwich was served with tomato sauce, which is definitely a rarity for this sandwich. 

The Los Angeles Times (CA), January 29, 1935, offered a recipe calling for Tillamook cheese and boiled ham. No poultry was included. 

The San Diego Union (CA), March 19, 1936, published a recipe which called for boiled ham, sliced chicken and Kraft's American cheese. It also called for Nuco, "for spreading," although I'm unable to determine what that was. It also called for Snowdrift, "for deep frying," and that was a vegetable shortening commonly used for frying. 

A brief mention in the Los Angeles Times (CA), June 7, 1936, noted, “Peter Lorre favors the Monte Cristo sandwich as an article of diet,..” Peter Lorre was a famous actor, having appeared in some classics such as Casablanca and The Maltese Falcon.

The Oakland Tribune (CA), September 20, 1936, discussed an upcoming Tribune Homemakers Forum, where Chef “Joe” Beyl of the Athens Club, would "present three of his most popular recipes for the late-supper menus: Lobster Thermidore, Monte Cristo Sandwich and Tomato Stuffed with Tuna.” 

The Sexton Cook Book for the Sexton Market (1937) by John Sexton & Co., printed a recipe, by Frank Hurliman, for the Monte Cristo Sandwich. It only called for ham and cheese, with the addition of tomato, which was maybe the first such addition.  

The Modesto Bee (CA), February 2, 1937, had its own recipe, and called for three slices of bread, making it more like a club sandwich. It called for boiled ham and cheese, as well as chicken, lamb, pork or turkey. The sandwich was then dipped in a blend of egg, salt, pepper, and milk before it was fried. This may be the first mention of the use of turkey for this sandwich.   

The Highland Park News-Herald (CA), March 26, 1937, also had a recipe calling for three slices of bread, but it only called for cheese and Hormel's spiced luncheon meat. It was also served with Iris Currant jelly.  

The Los Angeles Times (CA), November 25, 1937, also called for three slices of bread, with a layer of ham, topped with mustard, and a layer of turkey with mayonnaise. Curiously, the recipe didn't call for any cheese. 

There was an interesting article in a London newspaper, dealing with a Monte Cristo sandwich served at the Warner's Bros film studio. The Daily Mirror (London), May 3, 1938, had a Hollywood page where the writer mentioned, “I often go to lunch at Warners,…because there is something on the menu there which I have never met anywhere else. It is called a Monte Cristo sandwich and it is no doubt very fattening and indigestible. But I keep on ordering it because I can never quite figure out how it’s made. It seems to be thin bread fried in a cheesy batter with thin slices of chicken and ham between. It is served on lettuce with a pickled peach and it is better and more elusive than it sounds.”

In a follow-up, The Daily Mirror (London), July 6, 1938, noted that Miss Gail Patrick, a famous actress who married the manager of the Brown Derby restaurant, had written down many of their best recipes. She provided the writer with their recipe for a Monte Cristo sandwich, which called for three slices of bread, ham, chicken and cheese. The sandwich pieces were set upon crisp lettuce, and a pickled peach was placed into the middle of the plate.  

The Modesto Bee (CA), December 17, 1938, ran an ad for the Schurra’s restaurant, which stated, “Try Our Monte Cristo Sandwich. Something New and Different.”

The Standard Star (NY), September 29, 1939, provided advice for visitors to Holloywood, including, “Food: One of the first things you have when in California is a Monte Cristo sandwich. It is delicious and substantial, I might add. It is a club sandwich affair which has sliced chicken, a layer of melted cheese and then one of ham. The concoction is then dipped in an egg batter and fried in a deep fat. The results are very tasty.”

The St. Joseph Gazette (MO), February 12, 1941, published an ad for a hotel, which offered “Ladies’ Lunches” and their special that day was “Hot Monte Cristo Sandwich, vegetable, potatoes, salad, dessert, beverage” for 45 cents. 

The Nevada State Journal (NV), September 17, 1942, ran an ad for a club which served supper snacks from 10:30pm to closing, including a Monte Cristo Sandwich for 75 cents. 

The Oregon Daily Journal (OR), January 18, 1948, published an ad for the Pago Pago restaurant, which had late evening specialties, including “The Monte Cristo Sandwich.”

The Minneapolis Star (MN), November 17, 1948, mentioned that local chef, Dale Kirkpatrick, named the Monte Cristo as his favorite. His recipe then called for only two slices of bread, with ham, cheese, and chicken or turkey. It was served with sweet pickle relish and potato chips.  

Monte Cristo sandwiches in Australia! Maybe the first newspaper mention of this sandwich in Australia was in The Mercury (Tasmania, Australia), June 2, 1949, which had this brief recipe, calling only for ham and cheese.  

The Galveston Daily News (TX), October 9, 1949, ran a restaurant ad, which offered a Monte Cristo Sandwich, Olives, Sliced Tomato, and Potato Chips, for $1.

Over the next decades, the Monte Cristo's popularity would continue to grow, although currently, the sandwich has decreased in popularity and much fewer restaurants offer it on their menus. It's time for the sandwich to make a come-back, was well as for other sandwiches to use French Toast as their bread.

As I've shown, the Monte Cristo likely originated in California during the 1910s, and it seems to have taken about 15 years for the sandwich to be created in restaurants in other states. However, recipes to make the Monte Cristo were presented in a number of newspapers across the country for home cooks to try. We also see that the nature of the sandwich varied over the years, and continues to come in a number of variations. We may never know exactly who invented the sandwich, but we owe that person a debt for creating such a delicious sandwich.  

A History of Boston Jews, Kosher Restaurants, and Chinese Food

It's a strong tradition, some even might say a sacred tradition, for Jews to enjoy Chinese food on Christmas Eve or Christmas Day. The connection of Jews to Chinese food extends back over 100 years, possibly even to the late 19th century. I want to explore some of the history of the connections of Boston's Jewish population, Kosher restaurants, Chinatown and Chinese cuisine. 

A small number of Jews have lived in the Boston area since at least since the 18th century, but it wasn't until around 1880 that much more significant Jewish immigration to Boston began. Many thousands moved to the North End, especially around Salem Street, but in the 1890s, a number also moved to the area of Chinatown. 

In comparison, Jewish immigration to New York City started much earlier, establishing a strong Jewish community. For example, the Fall River Daily Evening News (MA), November 19, 1867, noted there were about 40 Jewish restaurants in New York City. At that time, there weren't any Jewish restaurants in Boston, and wouldn't be for over twenty years.  

The first Jewish restaurant in Boston wouldn't open until 1889. The Fall River Daily Evening News (MA), October 31, 1889, reported that a new Kosher restaurant “on an extensive scale” had just opened in Boston, “where the meat has been killed according to the law of Moses.” The name and location of the restaurant was not provided in the article. However, it seems likely that it was located in the North End, where most of the Jewish population in Boston was based.

It seems likely that five years later, this same restaurant was mentioned again, with a bit more detail, although the name of the restaurant wasn't provided. The Boston Globe (MA), January 7, 1894, stated, "The only Jewish restaurant in this city is on Hanover st. About 125 customers take meals there every day. There is a different bill of fare each day. The prices are high enough to keep out unwelcome guests, the price of dinner being 40 cents." The 40-cent dinner consists of soup, roast and boiled meats, including chicken, turkey or goose. Tea, coffee, milk, pie and pudding are served. The people who eat there are 'everyday people.' There one might ask for 'noodle soup' and be understood by the pretty waiter, but not by the ordinary American. The new customer might receive a cup of tea or coffee when it is called for, but the everyday patron will have his in a cup." 
 
By the mid-1890s, a number of Jews began settling or working on Harrison Avenue in Chinatown. The Boston Globe, June 28, 1896, printed an article that was subtitled, “Harrison Av Home of Many Jewish Merchants” Salem Street, in the North End, had a new rival for being the primary area for Jewish merchants. The article continued, "Harrison av, whose name suggests the word ‘Chinatown,’ is now, and has been for several years, offering extra inducements to purchasers of property for persons desiring to form a new settlement.” It was also noted, "This district had no Jewish families a few years ago. Now they are in full control...There are barber shops, butcher establishments, Jewish restaurants, furniture, new and second hand. Everything needed to successfully start housekeeping is for sale on a very small space of ground.” So, Jewish restaurants now existed in Chinatown.  

The Boston Globe, September 5, 1896, mentioned that Salem Street, Lowell Street, and Harrison Avenue were all places where Kosher meat could be obtained. 

Did the Jews of Harrison Avenue patronize the Chinese restaurants of that area? It's difficult to know for sure, but definitely seems possible. Much depends on how strongly the Jew wanted to eat kosher and whether they saw Chinese restaurants as acceptable under their dietary laws. At the very least, some Jews might have dined at Chinese restaurants on Christmas Day, especially considering most other restaurants were closed. 

As I mentioned in another article, Chinatown's restaurants on Christmas in 1897 were relatively empty. However, the Boston Globe, December 26, 1898, reported, “Down in Chinatown Christmas was observed in the ‘same old way.’ The Chinamen simply regard it as a pretty good time for business, and they are not so far out of the way, judging from last evening, for every restaurant in Chinatown was crowded by white folks.” 

How many of those customers might have been Jewish? It seems likely that some of them might have been Jewish, as they weren't involved in Christmas celebrations at home like most non-Jews. And many other restaurants were closed on Christmas, so Chinese restaurants were one of the few available options. If so, then the Jewish tradition in Boston of eating Chinese on Christmas extends back about 128 years! 

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From 1900-1920, a number of Jewish Kosher restaurants would open in Chinatown, including one of the longest lasting, Prime Restaurant.

The Standard-Times, November 5, 1900, reported that Benjamin Holshanetsky, a Jewish restaurant keeper, had been charged with keeping liquor with intent to unlawfully sell the same. Police raided his searched his restaurant, with a warrant, and found 3 pint bottles of lager, a half pint of brandy, a bottle of cherries and rum, a small quantity of light wine, and several empty bottles, Benjamin claimed it was only for his family, but he was found guilty and fined $50. 

The Boston Globe, May 18, 1901, published an ad, “Board and rooms for the summer season, everything first-class, salt water bathing, boating, fishing, etc; engage early. Mrs. Stone’s Kosher restaurant, 174 Chamber st, Boston.”

The Boston Globe, August 7, 1905, briefly noted that the Jewish section of Salem Street had a number of Jewish restaurants.

The Jewish Advocate, March 3, 1906, posted this ad for Fewes Kosher Restaurant, located on 78 Kingston Street.

The Jewish Advocate, October 8, 1909, had this advertisement for Guterman's Restaurant, alleging it was "The Oldest and Best Kosher Restaurant in Boston." It was located at 94 Essex Street, which would have placed it on the Chinatown border. However, I haven't been able to find any additional information about this restaurant, such as the date they were established. It's thus can't confirm that it was the "oldest" Kosher restaurant in the city.

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The Jewish Advocate, October 28, 1920, provided maybe the first advertisement for the opening of Prime Restaurant, a new Kosher spot located in Chinatown, on 155 Harrison Avenue. The ad stated it was “where a real god meal will be served at all times.”  

Prime Restaurant Co., was organized on September 17, 1920 and incorporated the next day. At this time, the area was a hub for the garment industry, which had strong Jewish involvement and investment.  So, having a Kosher restaurant nearby was a benefit to many. Prime Restaurant would last for over 40 years!

The Jewish Advocate, September 21, 1922, published another ad for Prime, noting it was a Kosher Restaurant and Delicatessen, and "Meals Served at All Hours."

The Jewish Advocate, March 18, 1926, had another ad, recommending Jews patronize the restaurant for Passover. It was also noted that breakfast was served at 6am, and dinner at 10am. 

The Jewish Advocate, April 22, 1926, had a short article on Joe Bullian, the manager of The Prime Restaurant. It was also noted that the owner of the restaurant was William Josephs and it "is now considered one of the leading Kosher restaurants in the city." It was also mentioned that copies of the Jewish Advocate would now be placed on every table at the restaurant for the customers.

The Jewish Advocate, May 10 and 17, 1928, mentioned that Prime was probably the largest Jewish restaurant in Boston and now have opened a strictly vegetarian restaurant at 11 Harrison Avenue, "The Only One of Its Kind in Boston." 

The Jewish Advocate, April 11, 1930, promoted the restaurant for Passover meals, from Passover Suppers to Passover dishes at their Cafeteria and Vegetarian spots.

The Jewish Advocate, November 6, 1931, noted that Prime was "The Finest Jewish Restaurant in the Heart of the Theatrical and Business Center."

Another advertisement in The Jewish Advocate, September 15, 1936.

The Jewish Advocate, March 19, 1937, had a brief article about Prime Restaurant, stating it would offer strictly Kosher meals for Passover, "featuring special suppers and services at the first and second seders in their newly created Kosher Dining Room at 9 1/2 Harrison avenue (upstairs) with Rabbi B. Mostofsky certifying to the kashruth."

The Jewish Advocate, March 26, 1937, had an ad about their Passover meals.

The Jewish Advocate, December 16, 1938, noted that Prime would have a New Year Party for two nights. 

The Jewish Advocate, February 17, 1939, had an ad, noting you could now dine and dance at the restaurant, which now had a "special floor show" and no cover charge.

Unfortunate news! The Boston Globe, July 26, 1939, reported that there had been a two-alarm fire at the five-story brick building located at 9 1/2-11-13 Harrison Avenue. The damages were estimated at about $10,000. The first two floors had been occupied by Prime Restaurant and had been filled with flames and smoke. There was also water and smoke damage to the upper floors. 

The Boston Herald, August 11, 1940, had a notice of an auction of dining room and kitchen fixtures and equipment of the Prime Restaurant, likely due to the fire, smoke, and water damage. The restaurant was apparently closed for a time, but reopening in less than a year.

The Jewish Advocate, April 11, 1941, published an ad for the Prime Restaurant, noting it would re-open on April 11.  

The Jewish Advocate, April 18, 1941, ran a brief article mentioning that the Prime Restaurant and Cocktail Bar had formally reopened last week. The proprietor was noted as being Willie Joseph. The article also stated, "The Cocktail Bar will be opened to the public April 22, serving the finest nationally advertised brands of ale, beer, and bonded liquors at popular prices."

Another ad for Prime in the Jewish Advocate, April 3, 1942. It was noted they now had a new dining room and banquet hall, which can accommodate over 300 people.

The Prime restaurant continues to promote itself for Passover in an ad in the Jewish Advocate, March 10, 1949.

The Jewish Advocate, November 7, 1957, mentioned Prime would serve Thanksgiving dinners. 

The Boston Evening Globe, January 18, 1961, had an obituary for William Joseph, age 70, who was the Treasurer of the Prime Restaurant while his brother, Benjamin, was the President. Then, the Boston Globe, August 5, 1962, reported that Benjamin Joseph, age 62, had died too. He was noted as the former owner of the Prime Restaurant, and two other restaurants. The new owner of Prime had been Isaac Manski, who came to the U.S. in 1937 from Poland. The Boston Herald Traveler, July 13, 1967, reported that Isaac, aged 72, had died. 

It's probably not a surprise then that Boston Herald, June 23, 1963, posted an ad for an auction of the equipment and furnishings for the Prime Restaurant. For over 40 years, Prime Restaurant, located in Chinatown, was one of the premiere Kosher restaurants in Boston. Because of its popularity, and location, many Jews spent time walking through Chinatown, and likely became curious about the Chinese restaurants.

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In Dining Out in Boston: A Culinary History (2016) by James C. O’Connell, there was a mention of a Boston Globe article from 1916 discussing the myriad restaurants in the city. that mentioned there had been at that time about 218 Jewish owned restaurants, mainly lunchrooms and delicatessens. It was noted, "The number had grown from a single Jewish restaurant in 1894 to 218 in 1916, reflecting the immigrant influx to Boston. These restaurants were mainly lunchrooms and delicatessens, selling Eastern European bagels, borscht, chicken soup, smoked fish, latkes, and the like, usually meeting kosher standards.” 

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A quick note: The Jewish Advocate was a weekly Jewish newspaper, established in 1902, serving Greater Boston and the New England area. It was an important source of information for the Jewish community, and helped to promote the idea of Jews patronizing Chinese restaurants.

The Jewish Advocate, September 7, 1907, presented the first advertisement in their newspaper for a Chinese restaurant, the Hankow, on 19 Essex Street. The ad noted the cleanliness of the restaurant, and that it will become "one of the BEAUTY SPOTS of Boston." However, it seems it would be nearly 20 years before the Jewish Advocate would run another ad for a Chinese restaurant. This might indicate that Chinese restaurants weren't too popular with the Jewish community until the mid-1920s.

It wasn't until 1926 that the next advertisement for a Chinese restaurant was published. The Jewish Advocate, September 9, 1926, had an ad for the King Joy Chinese Restaurant, at 311 Union Street, The ad also wished a Happy New Year to the Jewish community, referring to Rosh Hashanah, which was celebrated from September 8-10, 1926. A burst of other Chinese restaurants would advertise in the newspaper during the rest of 1926. This might have been the beginning of the close connection between Jews and Chinese food in Boston. 

The Jewish Advocate, September 16, 1926, presented an ad for China Rose, offering specials meals, including a Club Lunch for 45 cents, a Table D'Hote Dinner for 85 cents, and Sunday & Holiday Special for $1.25. Dancing was also available at the restaurant. 

The Jewish Advocate, September 16, 1926, also had an ad for the Palm Garden, with similarly priced special meals. The restaurant also offered music, but didn't mention whether dancing was available as well.

The Jewish Advocate, September 23, 1926, published this ad for the Santung Restaurant, which offered a Special Luncheon every day, and also had dancing. 

The Jewish Advocate, November 11, 1926, had an ad for the Tremont Gardens, noting you could dine and dance. 

There was a brief article in the Jewish Advocate, December 9, 1926, which discussed the new opening of the Symphony Restaurant, alleged to be the largest Chinese restaurant in Boston. It was located  adjacent to Symphony Hall on Huntington Avenue. "Indeed the management has spared no expense to make this 'the largest and most beautiful restaurant in New England.'" It was also claimed that it would have the largest dance floor in Boston. The article also noted, "Mr. Wallace Hong of New York, who has come to the Hub to manage the 'Symphony,' has many Jewish acquaintance here in town and looks forward to their patronage."

The Jewish Advocate, December 16, 1926, published this ad for Young China, promoting its "Chicken Chow Mein."

The Jewish Advocate, December 16, 1926, also had this ad, for the Si Woo Restaurant, noting it was taking New Year Reservations. 

The Jewish Advocate, December 23, 1926, published this ad for Yen Ho, an "American-Chinese Restaurant de Luxe." The restaurant offered music and dancing, and its New Year reservations cost $5.00 per plate.

The Jewish Advocate, December 23, 1926, also had an ad for Chung Sai, promoting its New Year's Eve celebration. 

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When did Chinese restaurants first offer dancing? The common legend is that around 1925, Joseph Rines, a famous Jewish musician, convinced the manager of the San Tung (or Santung) restaurant to install the first dance floor of any Chinese restaurant in Boston. Joseph Rines was born October 1, 1902 and would die on December 12, 1986. 

The Jewish Advocate, August 19, 1926, mentioned, “It was only a few years ago that Joe Rines just out of high school gathered several other young men and organized a band. Then came the radio and his appearance several times a week through Jackson’s Cabin on Station WEEI and now he has under his direction five leading orchestras in several of the most exclusive resorts in New England.” Joe was obviously very talented and driven, coming very far in only a short time.

The Jewish Advocate, July 28, 1927, published the above photo of Joe Rines. The accompanying article noted that Rines had come from an unusual family of musicians. “His grandfather was the leader and owner of the first band in the city of Boston and his grandfather and uncle practically controlled all of the better type of musical organizations about the time that the first Boston Musicians’ Union was formed.” In addition, other family members, including uncles and cousins were also musicians. As for Joe, “While Joe can now play almost every instrument in his 10-piece orchestra he is not satisfied. His one ambition is to be able to play every instrument in his orchestra well.” Personally, Joe was married, his wife named Gertrude, and they had a 2 1/2 year old daughter, Barbara. 

The Jewish Advocate, March 7, 1929, claimed that about 3 and ½ years ago, Joe Rines, had an intriguing idea. “The idea of a dance floor in a Chinese restaurant had not been tried in Boston until Mr. Rines persuaded the manager of the San Tung Restaurant to mix dance notes with chop suey and install a dance floor. The idea caught on, and it was a success from the first.” It was also said that this idea made him “the ‘Paul Whitman’ of Boston, master of jazz, and entertainer par excellence.” Currently, Joe is the maestro of the Metropolitan Theatre Orchestra.” He was also popular on the radio, and it was noted,  “It is said that he individually handles more radio work than any other Boston musician and employs more than 100 men weekly.” 

The Boston Herald, February 25, 1919, had an advertisement for the opening of the Santung Restaurant, at 241-243 Huntington Avenue. They offered music every evening. 

Six years later, the Boston Herald, January 25, 1926, published the first ad for the Santung which mentioned dancing was now available at the restaurant. There was no mention of the involvement of Joe Rines, but that might have been expected. 

However, in 1925, the Santung restaurant actually wasn't the first Chinese restaurant to offer dancing, so Joe Rines was not the first to recommend dancing. 

The Boston Globe, December 30, 1920, had the above ad for the Grand Garden and their New Year's Eve Celebration which offered "Orchestra--Entertainment--Dancing--Favors, etc." This could be seen as a one-off, and that dancing was not the norm at this restaurant, simply something extra for New Year's. 

 

However, the Boston Post, January 15, 1921 printed an ad for the new Nankin Garden, the “Latest American Chinese Restaurant,” located on Brighton Avenue, at the corner of Harvard Avenue and next door to Allston Theater. This restaurant offered dancing and a jazz orchestra, from 6:30pm-11:30pm, and it wasn't a one-off or holiday celebration. This might have been the first Chinese restaurant in Boston to offer dancing on a regular basis.

There was an ad in the Boston Herald, January 20, 1925, for the Grand Garden, an American & Chinese restaurant at 660 Washington Street, at the corner of Beach Street. This now was a Dine and Dance restaurant, and the ad predated, by a week, the Santung advertisement mentioning dancing. 

The Boston Herald, May 16, 1925, printed ads from two Chinese-American restaurants. The first was for the Santung Restaurant, which offered music and dancing. The other was the Palm Garden, at 218 Huntington Avenue which also offered music and dancing.

The Boston Herald, September 16, 1925, posted an ad for China Rose, a Chinese-American restaurant at 1088 Boylston Street in Kenmore. The restaurant offered dancing, without a cover charge.

 

The Boston Herald, November 25, 1925, printed an ad for the Court Chinese Restaurant, located at 14 Hanover Street. The Chinese-American restaurant also had music and dancing.

So, it seems dancing at Chinese restaurants extends back to at least 1920, although it didn't become a regular feature of any Chinese restaurant until 1921, four years before Joe Rines allegedly introduced dancing at Boston Chinese restaurants at the Santung restaurant. 

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During the 1920s and 1930s, the Jewish Advocate presented a handful of Chinese recipes, mostly Chop Suey, although some were more Americanized.  

Maybe the first recipe was presented in the Jewish Advocate, September 6, 1928. The recipe was for "American Chicken Chop Suey."

The Jewish Advocate, May 16, 1929, presented the same recipe, but it's much easier to read. As you can see, it doesn't require any special Chinese ingredients. 

As an aside, the Jewish Advocate, March 14, 1929, mentioned that at a local carnival, there would be a food demonstration by Alice Bradley of Miss Farmer's School of Cookery. Her demonstration would include Chicken Chop Suey and Chicken Chow Mein, both which would be Kosher. Unfortunately, her recipes were not published in the newspaper.

The Jewish Advocate, April 17, 1931, published a different American Chop Suey, which could be made with any type of meat. The most curious aspect of the recipe is that the Chop Suey was supposed to be poured over Rice Krispies!

The Jewish Advocate, July 7, 1933, had another recipe for Chinese Chop Suey, which now used a couple Chinese ingredients, such as bamboo shoots and soy sauce.

The Jewish Advocate, February 23, 1934, ran a lengthy article, titled Chinese Dishes for American Cookery by Barbara B. Brooks, Home Economics Dept, Kellogg Co. Battle Creek, Michigan. It stated, "Few of us would find time to cook many of the traditional dishes." In regards to Chop Suey, the article noted, "It was created by the Chinese in foreign lands to satisfy Western tastes." It continued, "Ingredients are cut into shoestring strips, tiny morsels, or flower-like bits. Seasoning is all important."; It also noted, "There are endless variations for making Chop Suey." 

In the recipe above, Rokeach Nyafat was a pure vegetable shortening that was widely used as a kosher substitute for chicken fat. 

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Finally, there were at least a couple restaurants which combined Jewish and Chinese foods, although they were generally prepared separately, and not as a fusion cuisine.

The Jewish Advocate, May 15, 1931, had an advertisement for Miller's Delicatessen and Lunch, in Brookline, which offered "Real Chop Suey To Take Out." Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find more information about the nature of the chop suey they sold.

The Boston Globe, October 12, 1952, published a help wanted ad for Counter Girls for the Chit Chat Snack Bar, at 58 Tyler Street. The Tufts Medical Journal, Vol 21 (1953) had the above ad for the spot, and again, it said little about the type of cuisine served there.  

However, the Boston Traveler, March 16, 1956, had a brief article about the restaurant, noting it was under a combined Jewish and Chinese management team, and it featured the cuisine of both! The article stated, “Chop suey and hot pastrami are staples; blintzes and chow mein are featured; and the patrons are as polyglot as the menu.” So, it seemed the two cuisines were presented separately, and not as fusion. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to find much else about this restaurant, except that in October 1956, it was up for auction. So, it only was in operation for about four years.

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So, why did Jewish people embrace Chinese restaurants so closely? That question has been previously addressed by numerous articles in the media. First, in New York City, the Jewish and Chinese communities lived very close to each other. As for Boston, that was true as well, as Harrison Avenue, and other parts of Chinatown, became a popular spot for Jewish businesses, from the garment industry to Kosher restaurants. In addition, the Boston theater district was close to Chinatown, and numerous Jews involved in the entertainment industry would dine at Chinese restaurants. 

Second, generally the Chinese community didn't discriminate against the Jews, but rather welcomed them. Jews faced discrimination from many other groups, so finding the Chinese to be amenable to them, to welcome them into their community was very appealing. 

Third, Kashrut is the set of Jewish dietary laws that define which foods are kosher, and thus acceptable to eat, and which are treyf, unfit for consumption. One of the kashrut laws was that meat and milk shouldn't be mixed, and Chinese cuisine generally didn't violate that law. Although Chinese cuisine did serve pork and shellfish, which weren't considered kosher, the Chinese commonly chopped up the meat and seafood to tiny pieces, so it has harder to identify them. Jewish customers could convince themselves that they weren't eating anything forbidden, that they were consuming "safe treyf." Newer Jewish generations also started choosing not to follow kashrut, so they had no trouble with consuming Chinese food. 

Fourth, the Jewish tradition of dining at Chinese restaurants on Christmas Eve or Christmas Day extends back over 100 years, and may even extend to the late 19th century. In Boston, I previously noted that in 1898, Chinese restaurants on Christmas Day were packed with non-Asian diners. 

How many of those customers might have been Jewish? It seems likely that a fair number of them might have been Jewish, as they weren't involved in Christmas celebrations at home like most non-Jews. And many other restaurants were closed on Christmas, so Chinese restaurants were one of the few available options. 

As Forrest Gump might have once said, "Jews and Chinese food go together like peas and carrots."