Monday, April 28, 2025

Rant: Wine Travel For The Summer

The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page.”
--St. Augustine 

As summer approaches, and you begin to make vacation plans, don't just make plans to visit the beach, to lay in the sun, relax and get a tan. Instead, why not visit a wine region, and immerse yourself in vineyards, grapes, fermentation, barrel rooms and wine tastings. When you return from a vacation of lying on a beach, you probably don't have many interesting stories to share. However, if you visit a wine region, you probably have much more to tell your friends and family about your experiences.   

There are various levels of understanding to all subjects, including wine. You may know little about wine, a moderate amount or be an "expert." Your wine knowledge may derive from a book, an instructor, numerous tastings, or a combination of elements. Another important source of information is travel to a wine region, which is an excellent way to gain further knowledge and understanding. 

Visiting a wine region will likely deepen your comprehension of wine. To meet the wine makers, to walk through their vineyards, to immerse yourself in the region's culture, all can contribute to a deeper appreciation and knowledge of the area and its wines. To have the opportunity to question the staff of the winery, to obtain answers to matters which might have previously confused or puzzled you, can be invaluable. A winery's website may present their brief history and philosophy, but that is most often only the bare bones. There is much richer detail to be found by speaking directly to the people of the winery.

One’s destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things.”
--Henry Miller

I strongly encourage all wine lovers to visit wine regions, so that you can gain better comprehension and knowledge. Wine writers are especially urged to do so, to give you a better perspective. Travel can be a great experience for everyone, to broaden anyone's horizons. You could visit a Caribbean island, and sit on the beach all day relaxing. Or you could take a more educational vacation and visit places such as Spain, Oregon, Croatia, Paso Robles, Argentina, or Long Island, and explore their wines, cuisine, and more. If wine is your passion, then such a journey should call to your heart and soul.

Before you visit a wine region, be sure to do some prior research, so that you aren't a blank slate when you arrive. You can then arrive with more informed questions, ones that cannot be answered simply by visiting the winery's website. When you get to the region, be proactive, asking questions, participating in as much as you can. If you are offered the opportunity to experience something different, like harvesting grapes or tasting something unusual, then take it. Try new foods, learn local customs, and have fun. Seize the moment and squeeze every ounce of knowledge and experience out of your trip.

If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion and avoid the people, you might better stay at home.
--James Michener

If you can plan an international trip, there are many different options for wine regions, from Europe to South Africa, Argentina to Australia. Croatia, Portugal and Spain are three of my favorite wine regions to visit, offering excellent wine and food, culture and history. Although traveling to these countries can be great, I understand that not everyone can afford it.  

If your traveling budget is more limited, just seek out wine regions and wineries more local to you. Every state in the U.S. now produces wine, and you are likely within driving distance of a number of others. That will give you plenty of options, and then you can save up for a larger trip out of the country, or even just to a different state. 

For example, in New England there are said to be over 115 wineries, with about 55 of them located in Massachusetts. Did you realize that many wineries existed in Massachusetts? You could make a day trip and easily visit several local wineries, and during a weekend trip, you could visit even more. If you have several days, or even a week, available for a wine trip, you could instead drive to New York and visit wineries on Long Island, in the Finger Lakes or the Hudson Valley.  

Don't just hang on the beach this summer. Visit a wine region and have a fun and fascinating experience. A tan may last a month or so but the knowledge gained from visiting wineries will last throughout your life. And would you rather hear someone's story about how they acquired their tan, or about the wineries they visited? 

Friday, April 25, 2025

Alto Canto: Natural Tequila With A Philosophical Foundation

What do the ancient Greeks have to do with a new brand of natural Tequila?  

I recently attended a media dinner, at Casa Romero, hosted by Daday Suarez, the CEO and founder of Alto Canto TequilaAlto Canto was just launched last year in New York City, and now it was being launched in Boston as well. I was thoroughly impressed, on multiple levels, by the three tequilas from Alto Canto and they earn my strongest recommendation. And Daday was fascinating, passionate and personable, a fine spokesperson for his tequila. It was a pleasure to chat with him, about a variety of topics, and not just tequila.        

Daday Suarez, with a degree in mechanical engineering, also possesses a sommelier certification. In addition, he's close to finishing a Bachelor's degree in philosophy, and may even continue his studies to acquire a Master's degree. Much of his philosophical studies included the various philosophies of the ancient Greeks. I also have a degree in philosophy, having studied the ancient Greeks as well, and have continued reading and studying philosophy over the years. Thus, I was intrigued to speak with Daday, to determine whether philosophy played a role in his new tequila brand.  

About six years ago, Daday decided he wanted to produce an agave-based spirit, to leave a legacy to his children. Initially, he considered producing Mezcal, but as he delved deeper into the matter, he decided there were too many regulations and that producing Tequila would be an easier endeavor. As he began his plans, he also considered several philosophical issues, which he felt would elevate this tequila. 

Initially, he asked himself the question, "What is tequila?" He was seeking more than a simple legal definition, but instead seeking a more metaphysical definition, a question of the identity of tequila. I'm willing to bet few, if any, tequila producers ever considered such a philosophical question when they started their brands. Daday also realized that he needed to bring out the identity of their tequila, to properly communicate about the new brand. 

In addition, Daday saw this tequila brand as a transcendent element of himself, a passion and legacy to pass on to his children, forming a sense of immortality. Thus, the identity of the tequila would be intimately tied to Daday, and he needed to ensure that he could be proud of what the tequila represented. His tequila is much more than a simple commercial product. I'll note that Daday's oldest son is currently studying medicine while his other son is studying math.

With his experience as a sommelier, Daday knew that with wine, aroma was the key, and he felt that applied to tequila as well. Thus, he desired his new tequila to possess a compelling aroma. He then sought out a partner, selecting maestro tequilero Juan Reyes, a famed distiller. Together, they eventually decided to construct their own small distillery, rather than use an existing distillery. The new distillery, a small operation, would contain forty-kilogram ovens and twenty-liter copper pot stills. 

Their objective was to produce tequila through more low-intervention and environmentally friendly methods, more traditional production methods. They decided to locate their distillery at a site in the mountains of the Sierra del Tigre, at an altitude of about 9,0000 feet. This is now the highest tequila distillery in Jalisco, the second highest distillery being situated at 6800 feet, over 2000 feet lower in altitude.

Why so high? The altitude brings lower temperatures and higher humidity, which allows them to better slow cook the agave piñas, making them softer and sweeter. In addition, this isolated region offered spontaneous fermentation free of industrial pollutants and other contaminants. With Daddy's philosophical bent, I can imagine their site in the Sierra del Tigre as akin to Mount Olympus, the home of the Greek gods. 

Their tequila is made from certified organic 100% Blue Weber agave, which they purchase, and it was mentioned that there are only about four producers of organic agave. It takes about 72 hours for them to cook the piñas in their small, stone ovens. Afterwards, the piñas are sliced and a volcanic stone Tahona is then used to mill the piñas, a very traditional method which is much better than the mechanical shredders used by many of the large tequila brands. Mechanical shredders can shred the bitter fibers on piñas, adding a harsh element to the tequila, but that doesn't occur with the Tahona. The Tahona process is also said to impart some minerality to the tequila. 

Fermentation occurs naturally, in tinas, traditional wooden vats, and then the tequila is distilled twice in small alembic copper pot stills. Interestingly, during the fermentation process, they play classical music, which is thought to "relax" the agave. Daday showed me their playlist and it had a diverse selection of classical music. At least one other tequila producer does something similar, and I'm aware of a few wineries which also play classical music, some just in their barrel room where their wines age.  

The tequila is not filtered, and the entire production process takes about eleven days. During this entire process, the only addition to the agave is natural spring water. Other tequilas may possess additives such as caramel coloring, glycerin, oak extract, and sugar-based syrup, but Alto Canto tequila does not. I'll also note that this tequila is Kosher. To Daday, the production of tequila is "more about doing things the right way." 

As for doing things the right way, sustainability is also an important value to Daday. For example, they foster biodiversity by planting cherry and apple trees, which helps provide beneficial yeasts for fermentation, and they also are concerned about waste reduction. Social sustainability is also important to them, so they pay fair wages to their employees, as well as investing in local infrastructure and education. This all supports that the tequila is a transcendent element of Daday, a legacy he can be proud of when it passes on to his children. 

As for the name of their tequila brand, "Alto Canto" translates as "highland song." They currently only sell their tequila in the U.S., in California, Massachusetts, New York and Pennsylvania. The tequila is not actually available in Mexico, for a number of reasons, such as higher taxes. The distillery only produces about 4000 cases (6-packs) annually, broken down into 45% Blanco, 30% High Proof, and 25% Reposado. Such a tiny production. They are working on producing an Anejo, which is a matter of waiting for it to properly age.

For their tequila, each bottle is numbered and topped with a ceramic cap, and those caps are all different. For their Reposado, they age it in new American oak, but don't char the barrel so it's not as aggressive. They chose not to age their tequila in used oak barrels, as they don't want to impart any flavors from the used barrels into their tequila. For example, a used bourbon barrel could impart a touch of bourbon flavor, and Daday wants Alto Canto to taste only like tequila. 

I first experienced their tequila in a couple cocktails. The Bright Echo was composed of Alto Canto Blanco, jalapeños, fresh cilantro, lime juice & agave. It had a pleasant taste, with definite agave notes, lime and a spicy kick, especially on the finish. This is the type of cocktail I would order and enjoy at a restaurant or cocktail bar.

The Alto Old Fashioned was made with Alto Canto Reposado, simple syrup & bitters, and it was also a fine tasting drink. The agave notes were dominant, balanced with a touch of sweetness. A nice way to showcase the reposado.

Then, we moved onto tasting the three tequilas on their own.

The Blanco ($80), with a 40% ABV, isn't aged in oak at all, although you might read some notes to the contrary, such notes being mistaken. On the nose, there was a pleasant and prominent agave smell, along with more subtle citrus notes. On the palate, the tequila was soft and smooth, without any bite or burn. There was a prominent agave taste, with complex notes of citrus, mild herbal notes, minerality and a little sweetness. It possessed a long, satisfying finish, and I could easily drink this on its own, or maybe atop some ice. Blanco tequilas are commonly best in cocktails, and this would work well in such, but it can easily be enjoyed straight up as well. This was certainly one of the smoothest Blancs I've tasted in a long time. Daday stated the Blanco paired well with ceviche, Manchego cheese, and Spanish ham. Highly recommended!

The High Proof ($90), with a 48% ABV, also isn't aged in oak and was intended for using in cocktails. 
On the nose, there was also a prominent agave smell, along with citrus and herbal notes. On the palate, the tequila was smooth with a bit of heat from the higher ABV.  There was a prominent agave taste, with complex notes of citrus, strong herbal notes, hints of earthiness and some minerality. This is a tequila that I'd use in cocktails rather than drink as is, and it was a favorite to some of the other people at the event.

The Reposado ($105), with a 40% ABV, was aged in new American white oak, in an adobe wine cellar, for about five months. I had some initial worries that the new oak might overpower this tequila, that its influence would be too bold, but as soon as I tasted the Reposado, all of those worries vanished. The Reposado had a nice, bright yellow color, and an intriguing nose of agave, citrus, and honey. On the palate, the tequila was silky smooth with a sense of elegance. The complex melange of flavors tantalized my palate, with notes of agave, citrus peel, dried fruit, honey, salted nuts, and more. Each sips seemed to bring something new to my mouth. The finish was quite lengthy and pleasing. The oak influence was more subtle, enhancing the tequila rather than detracting or masking its taste. This was my favorite tequila of the three, an impressive spirit which I would enjoy primarily on its own, slowing sipping and enjoying each taste. Highly recommended!

Alto Canto, a small, high-altitude distillery which produces more natural and traditional tequila, is worthy of your attention. These are some of the most compelling tequilas, for numerous reasons, in the market. And speaking with Daday Suarez, his passion for this project was obvious and infectious. It was clear that much thought went into the creation of these tequilas, and the success was evident in the taste of the tequila. How many other tequila brands have a foundation in philosophical musings? 

Thursday, April 24, 2025

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) Tonno Gloucester and Tonno Wakefield will be hosting a Mother’s Day Brunch (from 10am-1pm) and Dinner Specials (from 1pm-8pm) on Sunday, May 11th. 

The Mother’s Day Brunch Options include: Traditional Eggs Benedict, Crab Cake Benedict, Lobster Benedict, Brunch Flatbread, Cured Salmon, Belgian Waffles, French Toast, Three-Egg Omelet, Lobster Omelet, and Scrambled Eggs. 

The Dinner Specials include:

Crudo
  • Hamachi Crudo, cucumber, blood orange segments, Aleppo oil, blood orange reduction and tardive 
  • First Encounter Oyster (Eastham, MA) savory, sweet, champagne-like dryness 
  • Sippican Oyster (Marion, MA) high salinity, refreshingly bright, mineral and vegetal
  • Dozen Oysters *Served with cocktail sauce, white wine mignonette, and lemon    
Primi
  • Octopus Carpaccio, pickled fennel, arugula, orange segments and gremolata
  • Roasted Oyster, mascarpone, pancetta, apple relish and scallion
  • Radicchio Salad, arugula, shaved fennel, walnuts, sherry vinaigrette, topped with gorgonzola 
  • Maplebrook farm burrata, pesto, peas, fava beans, pine nuts, and house grilled bread
  • Spring risotto, asparagus, peas, fava beans, cherry tomatoes, fontina, and parmigiano 
  • Shrimp scampi flatbread with pesto, fontina, cherry tomatoes and parmigiano
  • Fried soft-shell crab, radicchio salas, citrus vinaigrette and ramp crema.
Secondi
  • Halibut “A La Plancha”, roasted rainbow carrots, bacon, ramps, blistered cherry tomatoes, and asparagus purée 
  • Twin 6oz lamb chops, potato purée, caponata and gremolata 
  • Gnochhi, plum tomato, pesto and parmigiano 
  • Shortcut rigatoni, lobster, garbanzo beans, fava beans, pancetta, white wine and parmigiano  
Dolci
  • Olive oil cake, fig jam, topped with house whipped cream
  • Cheesecake, raspberry compote, and candied nuts
  • Flourless chocolate cake, raspberry coulis, topped with house whipped cream 
  • Other options include: Cannoli, Tiramisu, Biscotti, Dessert Board, or Tiramisu Board 
To reserve your spot for brunch or dinner, please visit Tonno Gloucester’s Resy and Tonno Wakefield’s Resy

2) The 2nd Annual Rhythm N’ Spice Hot Sauce Festival returns on Saturday, May 3, with even more fire, flavor, and international flair. Headlining this year’s event is Shahina Waseem, the UK Chilli Queen, who will lead Boston’s first official League of Fire Chili-Eating Championship. Rhythm N’ Spice is proud to serve as an official U.S. host city for this global competition. Held at The Foundry in Kendall Square, the festival features two sessions filled with hot sauce tastings, spicy food challenges, chef demonstrations, cultural performances, a VIP tasting lounge, and family-friendly activities.

I am bringing the fire to Rhythm N’ Spice Hot Sauce Festival for the first ever league of fire Boston Belt Match. I have battled the world’s hottest chili’s and now it’s your turn to step up and prove your spice supremacy! Let’s make chili-eating history!” – Shahina Waseem, the UK Chilli Queen.

Event Highlights 
Global Hot Sauce Marketplace – Handcrafted sauces from New England and beyond
Spicy Food Lab – Live demos by top local chefs
Live Music and Dance – Performances in salsa, Bomba, Afrobeats, and steel pan
Kids & Culture Zone – Face painting, steelpan workshops, henna, and art activities
VIP Spice Lounge – Cocktails from Don Julio, Ketel One, and Mount Gay, exclusive tastings, giveaways, and more
Spicy Challenges – Oggi Gourmet Spicy Pizza Challenge, Spicy Bone Sauce Wing Challenge
League of Fire Chili-Eating Championship – 6:00 PM during Session 2
Chef Demos: from Zydeco Meadery, Rumson’s Rum, Curio Spice, and more

WHEN: Saturday, May 3; Two sessions: 12:00–4:00 PM and 4:30–8:30 PM
WHO: Featuring UK Chilli Queen Shahina Waseem, top chefs, vendors, DJs, and performers
TICKETS: General Admission: $12 (children 10 and under free)
VIP Admission: $40 (includes meal ticket, VIP tasting room access, and gift bag). 
Tickets available HERE

Wednesday, April 23, 2025

Casa Romero: First Impressions

Casa Romero. A 50+ year old Mexican restaurant in Boston which seems to fly under the radar, despite its delicious cuisine. 

I recently attended a media dinner for a new Tequila brand, Alto Canto, at Casa Romero, which is technically located at 30 Gloucester Street, but you access its front door in Public Alley 431. The owner, Jose Leopoldo Romero, more commonly known as Leo Romero, opened the restaurant in 1972, making it 53 years old this year. 

While engaged in graduate work at Harvard University in Cambridge, Leo found the area was lacking in Mexican cuisine, so he partnered with a few others in 1967 to open the Casa Mexico restaurant at 75 Winthrop Street in Cambridge. One of his primary partners was Jeffrey Davis, who was Welsh-born and famous for his cake decorating. Although some sources claim this was the first Mexican restaurant in New England, that's untrue. 

The first Mexican restaurant in New England, in Boston, appears to be El Phoenix Room at Concannon & Sennett, at 1430 Commonwealth Avenue, which opened in 1962, five years earlier than Casa Mexico. The restaurant served "authentic Mexican food" along with tequila, tequila cocktails, Mexican beer, and Spanish wine. The chef, manager and operator of El Phoenix Room was Mrs. Jerry Morgan, a German-American from Denver and Arizona, who was considered to be an expert in Mexican cuisine. This was her first restaurant, and originated when she realized there wasn't a "full-fledged Mexican restaurant in the Boston area or in New England."

In 1972, Leo Romero opened Casa Romero, selling his interest in Casa Mexico to an employee. Casa Mexico became the 4th Mexican restaurant in the Greater Boston region. In the Sunday Herald Advertiser, December 8, 1974, it was noted that the building containing Casa Romero was a four-story townhouse built in 1880, and Leon lived on the third floor. It was also noted that "romero" translates into English as "rosemary." At this time, Leo also owned a second restaurant, L'Ananas, an international restaurant and sidewalk cafe on Newbury Street. Romero also said, "With Mexican food, you can't have a good wine. Beer is best."

Currently, Casa Romero has several different rooms, as well as a bar, and a bright and festive decor. The Drinks Menu has numerous listings for Tequila, Mezcal, and Sotol, as well as Margaritas, Sangria and other Cocktails. There are only 4 wines on the Menu, which makes sense considering Leo's previously stated views on wines and Mexican cuisine. The Food Menu has Appetizers & Salads (14 options, $8-$20), Tacos (3 options, $22-$26), Fajitas (4 options, $26-$32); Enchiladas (4 options, $20-$30) and Signature Plates (9 options, $25-$38). Plenty of options whatever your preferences.

The dishes for the media dinner were all pre-chosen, so we didn't have the opportunity to order anything off the menu. However, we received a nice variety of dishes, giving us an excellent overview of the possible options at Casa Romero. And the two dishes on the menu which most interested me ended up being part of our dinner. 

The dinner began with a fresh salad with crunchy tortilla strips and I believe Cotija cheese. 

Then, there was a Fresh Fish Ceviche, with chips and avocado. Bright citrus flavors, tender pieces of fish. 

There were tasty Quesadillas, including one made with just cheese and one with chicken & cheese. There were some Tacos too, but I didn't get a pic of them. 

Next up were the various Signature Plates and other large plates. This was the Carne Asada, a tender and flavorful sirloin steak with onions, tomatoes, rice, refried beans, a plantain, and a chicken enchilada. A hearty platter of delicious food.

The Cochinita Pibil consists of pulled roasted pork marinated in a rich and flavorful Achiote and Orange Chile sauce, and accompanied by rice, refried beans, and tortillas. I loved this dish, the pulled pork possessed an amazing depth of flavor and a medium spice level. Highly recommended!

My other favorite dish was the Enchilada Mole, two chicken enchiladas, with a traditional mole poblano sauce. I love mole sauce, and their version was excellent, again with a nice depth of flavor, complementing the tender chicken enchilada. Also highly recommended!

There was also Camarones el Cilantro, plump, sauteed shrimp in a homemade cilantro sauce.

I definitely want to return here soon to check out more of their menu, and maybe revisit a couple of my favorite dishes. I was shocked that this restaurant had been around for 50+ years and I had never dined there before. I'm very pleased though that I finally got to check out this restaurant, and makes me curious as to what other long-time restaurants I haven't ever dined at before. Casa Romero is worthy of your attention, to enjoy some delicious Mexican cuisine, spirits, cocktails and beer. 

Have you dined at Casa Romero before? What were your thoughts?

Tuesday, April 22, 2025

Alileo Wines: Sicilian, Organic Boxed Wines

As I've mentioned before, boxed wines generally have a poor reputation in many circles. It's often thought only cheap, mass produced wines are placed into boxes and that's true in some cases. However, there are wineries that produce tasty and higher quality wines in boxes, and I've positively reviewed some over the years.

There are advantages to boxed wines over glass bottled wines. First, once you open the wine, if properly stored, the boxed wine will keep fresh for about a month, much longer than a bottle once you open it. Second, the boxed packaging is more environmentally friendly in a few ways. For example, it weighs less than glass bottles so transportation expenses and fuel expenditures are less. 

I was recently contacted by representatives of Alileo Wines, a Sicilian, natural boxed wine brand, and offered samples of two of their wines. The company was founded by Antonio Bertone and Alexandra Drane, a husband and wife, and is a partnership with Antonio’s family in Sicily. "The brand was started to pay homage to their family’s Sicilian roots as well as give their family in Sicily upward economic mobility.

Their organic boxed wines are produced using traditional methods with grapes from the west coast of Sicily. Wine production uses spontaneous fermentation, without added yeast, and it's boxed unfiltered. Alileo offers four varietals that come in 1.5 liter ($19.99) and 3.0 liter ($39.99) boxes. The 1.5 liter box is equivalent to two bottles of wine, and the 3 liter box is equivalent to four bottles.

Sustainability is a dominant value for Alileo, in all aspects of their operations. The packaging of their boxed wines is produced with less energy than glass bottles, and the packaging is also an easier recycled product. Boxed wines also can fit more wine in each shipment than bottles, resulting in lower fuel consumption and fewer emissions. Plus, all of these factors have lowered their operational costs, and they have passed those savings onto their customers, with lower wine prices.

Alileo Wines has also received a B Corp™ certification. "B Corp Certification is a designation that a business is meeting high standards of verified performance, accountability, and transparency on factors from employee benefits and charitable giving to supply chain practices and input materials." World wide, only about 100 wineries have B Corp certification. “From the first conversations about Alileo around our family’s dining table in 2020, we have always had our commitment to our environment, community and team at the forefront of every decision we make,” said Antonio Bertone

The Alileo Wines Young Bianco is produced from young Grillo grapes, a grape whose origins are unknown although it has been known to be on Sicily since at least 1897. Through DNA analysis, it was learned that Grillo is a natural cross between Catarratto Bianco and Muscat of Alexandria. With a bright yellow color, and a 12.5% ABV, the wine had a pleasing nose of citrus and floral notes, both which come out on the palate as well. It is fresh and clean, with good acidity, savory and herbal notes, and a pleasant finish. An excellent summer wine.   

The Alileo Wines Rosato Bronzato is produced from 100% Syrah and has a 12% ABV. "Bronzato" means "tanned by the sun," but it's also a slang term for "someone who partakes in some sporty imbibing." For Alileo, they use the term to reference the "feeling of being tanned by the sun," as if you're drinking the wine on a sunny beach. With a dark pink color, and a fruity aroma, the wine is fresh and crisp, with a medium-body and tasty, bright flavors of red fruit, especially cherry, and a savory element. Excellent on its own, and perfect for the summer, but it's very food friendly as well. 

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With the sustainability advantages of boxed wine, as well as the fact that the Alileo Wines is using organic grapes, and numerous sustainability practices throughout their business, they have much to offer consumers. Most importantly, the wine is tasty and very reasonably priced, equal to an average of $10 for a 750ml bottle. And with summer coming, boxed wine is a great choice for taking on boats, to the beach, on picnics, hiking and more. You don't have to worry about glass potentially breaking or the need for a corkscrew. And it's easier to pack than several bottles of wine. 

It's only Natural to enjoy these Sicilian, organic boxed wines!

Monday, April 21, 2025

Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet: An Update on the New Shop

Eight months have now passed since Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet in Melrose replaced the former Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet. I worked at Beacon Hill for about 12 years, and have continued to work at the new Victoria Hill. I previously wrote an update about Victoria Hill at its third month anniversary, and now I want to update my thoughts and insights about the new shop. 

First, Victoria Hill is an artisan wine, beer and spirits shop which is intended to be a destination shop, not merely a neighborhood store. Its objective is to attract customers not only from Melrose but also from all of the surrounding communities. This is done by offering products that aren't available at other local wine and liquor shops, including the big box shops. The diversity of their selection continues to always expand, and have been greatly welcomed by the customers. 

To expand their wine selection, new wine shelves, such as the one pictured above, have been added, allowing the shop to stock even more wine selections. As an example, the shelves above contain Portuguese wines, from Vinho Verde to Port, Madeira to Douro still wines. Spanish wines are on similar new wine shelves.  

There's also a new shelving unit for Sparkling Wines (from Crémant to House Champagne, Cava to Grower Champagne) to Rosé Wines (from Provence to Txakoli, Italy to California). Overall, the shop now stocks approximately 600 wines! 

Victoria Hill also carries about 125 "Natural Wines," which is used as an overall designation for wines that are Biodynamic, organic, sustainable, or similarly produced, whether certified or not. To more easily locate the Natural wines, you simply have to check the new wine price labels, shown above, and look for an "N" in the right hand corner. More Natural wines will be coming in the near future too.  

The wine selections also now come from about 25 different countries, including less commonly available wines from regions including Croatia, Lebanon, Georgia, Armenia, Bulgaria, Serbia, Uruguay, Slovenia, Switzerland, and more. Wines from additional countries will also be added over the next several months.   

I have continued to conduct Wine Tastings every Thursday evening, from 5-7pm, and every Saturday afternoon, from 1-4pm. The tastings showcase diverse wines, exposing many customers to wines, countries and grapes they have never previously sampled. Customers have been very appreciative of this approach, and open to tasting more unique wines. They have often found new favorite wines, buying wines they wouldn't have purchased on their own, wary of buying a wine they've never experienced or knew little about. There have also been plenty of repeat customers who regularly come to the tastings to experience these new wines. 

The shop also conducts Beer Tastings and Spirit tastings on Friday nights. Please come by any of these tastings to expand your palate and taste some delicious and fascinating new wines, beers and spirits.  

Besides the diverse wine selection, the beer and spirits selection has also grown in numbers and diversity. The main beer chiller above contains many different craft beers, including plenty of local selections. The spirits selection has also expanded, including some harder to find items, from Blanton's Bourbon to Chartreuse.

Much positive progress has been made during their first eight months, and the store has plans for additional changes. They are also open to suggestions and recommendations. If you live in Melrose, check out Victoria Hill and see what your new neighborhood wine, beer & spirits shop has to offer. If you live outside Melrose, please also check out Victoria Hill as you are likely to plenty of selections that aren't available at your own neighborhood wine shop. And please come to the wine tastings and learn more about the wonders of wines from all over the world! 

Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet
538 Main Street, Melrose
(781) 665-3332
Hours of Operation: Monday to Wednesday: 10am-8pm, Thursday to Saturday: 10am-9pm; Sunday: 10am-7pm. 

Thursday, April 17, 2025

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) Ken Zuckerman, the "Mustard Maestro," is participating in a tasty family event on Sunday, April 27, from 12pm-3pm, at First St. Market’s event space (adjacent to restaurant Amba in Cambridge), featuring 8 sausage creations to try from local area chefs with a Sausage Passport, world class mustards from the National Mustard Museum in Wisconsin, and Pearl Hot Dogs and fun activities for the kids as well. Beer samples, Tequila drinks and a cool Mustard Gift Basket Raffle. 

Participating Restaurants:
Amba
Gufo
Geppetto
Formaggio Kitchen
Mothership
MeRai
State Park
Puritan Oyster Bar

Tickets are just $25 for Adults, $10 for kids (plus small ticket process fee). To order tickets please visit Eventbrite

2) Would you like to play a wine game while enjoying a delicious, multi-course Italian dinner? On Wednesday, April 30, at 6:00pm, A Tavola, in Winchester, will be hosting a "Wine is Blind" dinner, with five-courses of delicious food and five intriguing wines. Each course is a journey, making your taste buds dance with joy

During the dinner, there will be a fun game of "Guess the Grape," where you will try to blind guess the type of grape used to make your wine. You will get to learn more about wine as you eat and enjoy your unknown wines. Should be lots of fun! 

The Food Menu includes (*subject to change due to availability)
First Course: Pecorino Budino with grilled sourdough 
Second Course: Mortadella Bruschetta, pistachio
Third Course: Tomato & Prosciutto Arancini
Fourth Course: Braised TX Boar Cannelloni
Fifth Course: Grilled Flat Iron Steak, escarole, pickled red onion, anchovy vin.

Cost: $115 per person
Reservations: Limited Seats Available. For reservations, please call 781-729-1040 

Tuesday, April 15, 2025

4 Kilos Vinicola Motor America: A Light Red Wine From Mallorca

The island of Mallorca, which is part of Spain, is the largest of the Balearic Islands in Mediterranean Sea and is located roughly 128 miles south of Barcelona. The history of wine making on this island extends back to the ancient Romans but in modern times, in 2002, there were only about 10 wineries on Mallorca. However, in the next 20+ years, this number expanded to about 100 wineries, and some of their wines are now available in the U.S. 

Have you tasted a wine from Mallorca? I first tasted a Mallorcan wine back in 2007, and have enjoyed a few others over the years. So, I've always been interested in tasting more of their wines.  

4 Kilos Wines was founded in 2006 by Francesc Grimalt, a Mallorcan winemaker, and Sergio Caballero, a musician. Initially, this was a tiny operation, and they made their wine in "milk refrigeration units on a sheep farm." A year later, they were able to expand, and create a small winery, producing wine from organically grown, indigenous grapes which average 25-50 years old. The name of the winery, "4 Kilos," refers to their original investment of 4 million pesetas (about $27,000 U.S.). Certainly a small investment. They are passionate about highlighting indigenous grapes and showcasing terroir in their wines. 

The 4 Kilos Vinicola Motor America ($24.95) is made from 100% Callet, a grape indigenous to Mallorca. I'll note that the name of this wine, "Motor America," is a nod to Grimalt's father, who worked in the auto industry. Grimalt, when he was the winemaker at Ànima Negra, played a significant role in establishing Callet as a valued grape at a time when many others saw it as an inferior grape. "Callet" means ‘black’ and the grape is dark-skinned, most commonly used in the production of Rosé. Callet also tends to be low in alcohol, with soft tannins, prominent raspberry flavors with sometimes spicy and herbal notes. I've previously had Mallorcan wines made with Callet, but it was always used in a blend, so this was the first time I tried a 100% Callet wine.

Their Callet comes from organic vineyards, which are over 50 years old, and which grow in Cal Vermell soils, which are reddish, iron-rich and porous. The grapes are foot trodden, a rare practice nowadays, and fermented with native yeast. It's then aged in clay amphora and stainless steel for about five months. The resulting wine is also bottled unfined, unfiltered, and without any added sulfur dioxide and at an 11% ABV. 

With a fruity aroma, this wine is light bodied with delicious red fruit flavors, especially raspberry, with hints of black olive and herbs. It's smooth and easy drinking, with a satisfying finish and a rather unique taste. This is the type of wine which could also be slightly chilled if that's your preference, especially during the upcoming summer. It's excellent on its own, but would pair well with foods suck as roast chicken or duck, or a roast pork loin. Highly recommended!

Monday, April 14, 2025

Rant: Buy Your Mom A Bottle Of White Zinfandel!

In one month, on Sunday, May 11, it'll be Mother's Day, a time to honor our mothers, to show the love we possess for them. I love my mother, and she is worthy of much honor for her love, devotion, and sacrifice in raising me. However, she'll say that she doesn't need any specific day to be honored, that she feels my love every day. Many mothers probably feel that very same way about their children, yet we children still enjoy celebrating this holiday.

During the next month, will you buy your mom a gift? Jewelry, chocolates, flowers or maybe a bottle of wine? If you want to buy her a bottle of wine, what would be your best choice?  

It might be White Zinfandel! Do you think I'm crazy to make such a statement?

Twelve years ago, I posted a similar article, and the sentiment bears repeating once again. Back then, while working at a wine shop near Mother's Day, I sold more White Zinfandel than any other day I ever recalled. One of the customers seemed almost guilty buying it, telling me that it was for her mother, not wanting me to think she was drinking it. That made me ponder the matter, raising a question in my mind.

If you truly love your mother, would you really buy her an inexpensive, and much maligned, wine like a White Zinfandel?

Some might think the answer is easy, that their mother deserves much better than White Zinfandel. They would rather try to introduce their mother to some other wine, one which is much better in quality and taste. They might prefer to select a pricey wine, rather than the cheap White Zin. In some respects, they are correct. Your mom is certainly worthy of a pricey, high end wine. However, that doesn't mean you should buy your mother such a wine.

In fact, sometimes a White Zinfandel is the best wine you can buy for your mom.

For Mother's Day, I believe that you should give your mother the things she loves, no matter what they might be. I don't believe it's the day to test your mom, to give her mother something she might or might not enjoy. You want the day to be as perfect as possible for your mother, so you should cater to her desires. If she loves White Zinfandel, then the best wine you can give her for Mother's Day is White Zinfandel. You shouldn't feel guilty or cheap. You shouldn't feel like a bad child.

Even if you're a wine lover, conversant with wines from all over the world, don't shy away from buying White Zinfandel if that is what your mother loves. Maybe your mom has never had a Provence Rose or a Gruner Veltliner, and might enjoy them if she did. Then again, maybe she won't. Don't try to change your mother's palate on Mother's Day. You can do that on any other day of the year. Instead, give her what you know she already loves, even if it's White Zinfandel.

Yes, Love for your Mother can be expressed through White Zinfandel

Thursday, April 10, 2025

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) On Wednesday, May 14, Chef Kegan Stritchko will welcome sake expert, Yishi Li, to XOXO Sushi Bar in Chestnut Hill for an evening of perfect pairings. Chef Stritchko, a master of jukusei omakase, will be joined by Li, a WSET Level 3 sake professional who holds a Sake Diploma with Japan Sommelier Association, in presenting a 16-course menu complemented by carefully curated sake designed to delight the palate.

Guests will begin the epicurean experience with a Mini Lemon Sour welcome cocktail crafted with Tsuru-Ume Lemon. As Chef Stritchko introduces the first courses – a duo of Island Creek oysters and houbou usuzukuri – Li will guide diners through her sake choice, Ohmine “3 Grain” Omachi with hints of peach, Asian pear, lychee and mandarin orange. To accompany the next bites of ishidai, kasugodai, hon hiramasa and hotaru ika nigiri, guests will sip Kuheiji Sauvage 2023 Junmai Daiginjō made of 100% omachi rice. The fourth beverage is Houou Biden "Asahi Mai" that will be served alongside delicacies of chawanmushi, kamasu and akamutsu. Up next, a collection of sea treasures (chu-toro, otoro, jo uni, negitoro) paired with Akabu “Junmai Daiginjo” followed by courses of bone marrow with uni and an A5 waygu carpaccio served with Nishide 100 Year Junmai Daiginjo. For the finale, a mixed berry cheesecake will be balanced with a taste of “Tsuru-ume” Ichigo, a seasonal strawberry sake.

When: Wednesday, May 14. Seatings available at 5:00pm, 7:00pm & 9:00pm.
Cost: $295 per guest (includes food & beverage)
Reservations can be made through OpenTable.

Tuesday, April 8, 2025

An Early History of Boston's Italian Restaurants (Part 2)

"I love spaghetti. And I like to cook spaghetti. And I used to eat it every day."
--Christopher Walken

Around 1900, the North End had a population of about 24,000, with about 15,000 of them being Italian. This neighborhood had truly become "Little Italy," and the Italian population would only continue to grow. At this time, there were also about 5,000 Jewish people living in the North End.

Puppet shows! The Sunday Herald, April 29, 1900, noted a sign in the North End which depicted, “a flaming signboard that showed a gigantic Saracen in blue overthrown by a pink knight about half his size.” This sign advertised an Italian puppet show that took place every night and on Sunday afternoons.  The “padrone di teatro,” a Sicilian, worked as a carpenter by day but did the puppet shows at night, something he did for the love of this art. In fact, it was even said he lost money on these performances. The article mentioned that he gave a performance of “I Reali di Francia,” the “The Peers of Charlemagne,” a popular story in Italy for hundreds of years.

More details on the make-up of Little Italy. The Boston Globe, October 15, 1900, indicated that there were about 25,000 Italians in Boston. “Within a few years there has grown up in the North end a settlement that promises to outgrow any that has yet made that section of the city its home, and whose people are destined to become a factor in the government of the city.” The beginnings? “It is only about half a century since the first Italian immigrants came to this city. Their number was small and their coming unnoticed. They sought homes in a quarter where already people of several other European nations had settled, poor, like themselves, and accustomed to the life of hard labor that is the portion of foreign settlers in the first years of their life in a new place.”

One of the first Italians to settle in Boston was the late Joseph Morello. Over 50 years ago, he established himself on Ferry Street, starting a baking business, which would eventually move its locations a few times. For example, the Boston Evening Transcript, April 15, 1872, indicated Morello's bakery was at 1049 Washington Street. The Boston Globe, April 11, 1885, indicated his bakery was now at 192 North Street. 

The article continued, “For nearly 25 years Genoese only were the representative Italians in the city. Neapolitans were so few they were not noticeable, and Sicilians were in still smaller numbers. But for the past 25 years this has changed, and since that time Naples and Sicily have given the larger number of immigrants.” This shows that Northern Italians were initially the most dominant Italians in Boston, bur eventually Southern Italians began to take prominence. 

Who were some of the most successful Italians in Boston at this time? Dr. Joseph Santosuosso, a young man, was born in Italy, near Naples, and came to the U.S. with his parents when he was 4 years old. He graduated from medical school in 1899 and was seen as one of the “coming men.” He was also trying to get elected to the school board. Another young professional was George Scigliano, born in the North End, and who graduated from law school in 1899. Another successful Italian was Joseph De Marco, who was born in Naples and in the U.S. became a newspaper man, writer, orator and linguist.  

Two of the best known, Italian business men were Joseph De Voto and Marciano Di Pesa. De Voto was Genoese and came to Boston in 1871. In Italy, he had been a soldier, and in Boston, he carried on a general business and was considered was “one of the safest advisors in the Italian colony.” Di Pesa was born near Naples, and had been a tailor for about 20 years. In Boston, he also had a large general business and worked as a superintendent at the post office substation in the North End. It was also said,    “There is no man better or more favorably known in the colony,..”

Finally, the article briefly discussed Andrew A. Badaracco, a Councilman who was the first Italian representative in an elective office. He was also a business man of good standing, and it was said, “In his political office, as among his business acquaintances, he is respected as a man of honor and integrity.”

Where did the North End get its groceries? The Boston Globe, October 28, 1900, stated that “Little Italy is full of ‘grosserias’ or Neapolitan and Genoese ‘botteghe,’ that sell all kinds of Italian provisions.” Most of those shops were supplied by New York farms, or received imports from Italy.  “But the most prosperous ‘grosseria’ in the North end is the one exception that proves this rule, since it is supplied in all these particulars by the products of an Italian farm in Milford, Mass.”

This farm was owned by Sig Enrico Tasinari, a prosperous Italian from Bologna, although the farm was originally owned by Bernardo Ambrosoli. Upon Bernardo's death, the farm was put up for auction and Tasinari bought the buildings and 85 acres of farmland. He even grows some grapes there, to make “vino nero,” black wine.

Italians and Thanksgiving! The Boston Herald, November 30, 1900, reported that Thanksgiving had been celebrated in Little Italy. It was said, “fat, brown, juicy turkeys were on nearly all the Italian dinner tables. It was a home day, and the Northenders ate at home and entertained at home, there being no society parades, banquets or concerts.” In addition, “There were feasts, however, at the Hotel Italy in North square and the Hotel Piscopo on Fleet street.” The article continued, “The Italians do not do things by halves. They began their feasting and celebrating early yesterday morning and did not stop until this morning. It was a lively and picturesque night in the North end, and there was nothing to mar its pleasures.”

Bad news for the hotels in Little Italy. The Boston Herald, December 5, 1900, reported that the highest court in Massachusetts had declared that licensed inn holders could not serve alcohol after 11pm. This was a serious problem as most inn holders claimed that their best business occurred between 11pm and 1am. “In that part of the city known as ‘Little Italy’ the enforcement of the law will result in great hardship, and Hotel Italy and Hotel Piscopo will suffer to a considerable degree.”  

The Boston Globe, December 16, 1900, had a brief mention of Damiano’s Italian restaurant in the North End. 

A terrible fire! The Boston Herald, January 30, 1902, reported about a disastrous fire at 8 Fleet Street where 9 people died, all but one being Italian, and numerous others injured. The Boston Herald, January 31, 1902, added that the cause of the fire still unknown, but it was possibly arson. However, there weren't any subsequent newspapers revealing whether it was arson or not. 

Would you have expected a book store in Little Italy at this time? The Sunday Herald, July 6, 1902, discussed a book shop that existed on North Street. “For ‘Little Italy,’ strange as it may seem, is very fond of reading, and although these Italians can scarcely be called literary, still they love stories; folk legends they have heard all their lives, tales of ghosts and bitter vendettas and histories of the saints. All these and also many better known books are to be found on the shelves of this little ‘libreria,’ piled in high heaps that reach to the ceiling.” The book store had a sign “Assolutamente Proibito di Fumare,” meaning "smoking is absolutely prohibited.

There were books “to suit all tastes,” including "for cooks books of delicious rules for ‘minestra,’ ‘crema fritta,’ ‘raviole,’ or any of the thousand good things that ‘Little Italy’ loves,…” There were also plenty of “goody-goody books for children.”,moral stories to make children better adults. The article also mentioned, “Usually it is the northern Italian who is better read, as he is better bred, but this little ‘libreria’ is able to satisfy all tastes with its varied stock,….”

Cards and hotels. The Boston Herald, August 16, 1902, first mentioned that local Italians were happy over rumors that the police would allow them to play cards in bar-rooms, “in plain sight from the street” as they once did. It's unclear if this actually came to fruition or not. 

The article then mentioned that two hotels were supposed to reopen in the North End, including the hotel of Ambrosoli, located on North Street just south of North square, and the Hotel Italy in North Square. However, it was claimed that the hotels were being opened by men from New York. Men from Boston had tried to reopen the hotels, but had been repeatedly denied liquor licenses. The local Italians used to frequent the hotels, playing cards, talking and drinking. “The Italians argue that they are entitled to hotels, and they prefer to associate with their own and to keep by themselves in places where the food, the cooking, the drinks and all the customs are distinctly Italian.”

Running amok in the North End! The Boston Herald, August 21, 1902, reported that previous night, on Richmond Street, Maurice Higgins, 34 years old, a steamship fireman, ran amok. It was said that he was not drunk and no one understood the reason for his erratic behavior. However, he attacked and knocked down at least 6 people, including a 50 year old women, who received a broken nose, abrasions and contusions. A large crowd, of several hundred, trailed him, some carrying with revolvers and knives. Fortunately, the police arrived and arrested him before the crowd could inflict its own version of justice on the crazed man. 

Another murder in an Italian restaurant! The Boston Herald, February 18, 1903, reported that Vincenzo Penta, a contractor, was slain by Beningno Santosusso, a laborer, in an Italian restaurant on Moon Street in the North End. “It was another case of an Italian cutting affray, for which the North end is famous, differing from the ordinary cases only in detail and in the capture of the alleged murderer.”; The restaurant, owned by Alesandro Servitella, was located in the basement of the dwelling house at 20 Moon Street, only a block away from a fatal shooting from last week. Penta entered the restaurant, just to start a fight with Santosusso, and insulting him before striking him a couple times. Then, it seems Santosusso used a knife, killing Penta and he fled.  

"Don’t Snub the Spaghetti.” That was the title of an article in the Boston Post, December 20, 1903. The article stated that people dined at Italian restaurants for the spaghetti. However, it was claimed that you never knew when you would receive the spaghetti during the meal. However, the article then claimed that the only way to surprise the employees and other patrons was to declare “I don’t care for spaghetti! Take it away.” 

A lengthy article about North End's Italian restaurants appeared in 1904. The Boston Herald, February 21, 1904, stated, "If you are very hungry some day when you want a good, substantial dinner, and your pocket is unfortunately low, then go to Little Italy." There were details about a Tuscan restaurant, kept by Bimbo Funai, who claimed to be from Florence. He brings the crusty bread and unsalted butter to your table. Some of the dishes he serves includes polenta, minestra, scalpina alla marsala (onions and veal), and a variety of garlic flavored dishes. "In the Tuscan restaurant you will meet all classes of men, and all trades. Bimbo has no prejudices."

Enrico Tassanari was the proprietor of the Bolognese restaurant, and might have been the wealthiest man in Little Italy. His restaurant is described as a "long smoky room, hung with strings of dried mushrooms and garlic and peppers, the low, dark wine-stained tables, and the cheese-piled counter behind which the pretty Italian girls stand to serve out smiles and spaghetti." This is a more formal restaurant than that of Bimbo. The menu is on a chalkboard, and you will see items like pig's feet, spaghetti and boiled cabbage. 

There is also Leveroni's Genoese restaurant, and their menu was printed on paper. He serves dishes such as tagliarini shredded with mushrooms and garlic spiked ravioli. 

The article then differentiates between Northern and Southern Italian restaurants. "Beyond doubt the best restaurants are kept by northern Italians, and while southern Italy makes the music, the northerners cook the food." And the article ends with, "Nowhere else can you dine so nicely and so well, so abundantly and so cheaply as in Little Italy,..."

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The Boston Globe, March 5, 1904, reported that Vincent and Catherine Tassinari had applied for a liquor license as Victuallers and Wholesale dealers at 148 North Street. This location once used to be the Hotel Ambrosoli. However, two years later, the Boston Globe, August 10, 1906, noted others were now seeking a liquor license for this location. Carmine Paglinca and Gaetano Balboni applied for a liquor license as Victuallers and Wholesale dealers.  

Another death in a restaurant. The Boston Globe, June 8, 1908, reported on an incident at the restaurant of G. Paglianca (probably a spelling error) at 148 North Street. One of the cooks was Antonio Pinotti, a very jealous man who constantly fought with his wife. This time, he shot his wife and then shot and killed himself. Although his wife survived at first, she died two days later of the gun shot wounds.  

The Boston Globe, March 1, 1912, reported that Carmine Paglinca and Josie Luongo had applied for a liquor license as Victuallers at 148 North Street.

An assault on Carmine! The Boston Globe, August 13, 1912, reported that two young men assaulted Carmine Paglinca in his saloon at 148 North St. One of them actually attempted to shoot Carmine, but the gun was wrestled away from him before he could fire. The two young men were both arrested. 

The Boston Globe, March 1, 1912, reported that Carmine Paglinca and Sylvia Paglinca had applied for a liquor license as Victuallers at 148 North Street. 

Carmine was assaulted again! The Boston Globe, June 25, 1913, reported that at Municipal Court, it was learned that Carmine Paglinca, who owns a saloon and pool hall at 148 North St., was stabbed twice in the last six months. He was stabbed twice by Lugi Paprida, age 27. In the current case, Carmine had been stabbed in his left shoulder and left leg. Carmine is related to Lugi through marriage, but the two have been unfriendly for a long time. Six months ago, Lugi was found guilty of assault for stabbing Carmine, fined $25 and placed on six months probation. In the current case, the matter was sent to the Grand Jury.

The outcome of this case wasn't mentioned in the newspapers, and Paglinca's saloon also stopped being mentioned. It's possible Carmine chose to close the saloon after this second stabbing.

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Another shooting at an Italian restaurant! The Boston Journal, November 7, 1904, reported on a shooting at an Italian restaurant, owned by Antonio Liberatori, at 7 Prince Street. Ernest Alesso, 30 years old, was a waiter at the restaurant. Giovanni Pisano, age 32, ordered some pies, but when he learned how long he would have to wait, he decided to leave and not pay. He got into a "scrimmage" with Alesso, who retrieved a revolver from behind a counter and fired three shots at Pisano, hitting him in the right cheek, shoulder and abdomen. A Help Wanted ad in the Boston Globe, February 28, 1902, sought 2 waitresses, so it seems this location was a restaurant at this time. It's unclear whether Liberatori owned the restaurant at that time or not. 

The Boston Herald, July 12, 1905, reported that Tony Leonardi, age 40, an Italian restaurant owner, the proprietor at 212 North Street, drowned in Lake Chebacco near Essex. Tony came to America when he was fifteen and “amassed a comfortable fortune.” He used to live at 294 Hanover Street. 

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A new hotel with Italian cuisine opens. The Boston Evening Transcript, January 11, 1905, printed an ad for a new hotel, the Hotel Napoli, which was supposed to open the next day. It was located at 84-90 Friend Street and offered, "Strictly First Class Italian Cuisine."

The Boston Evening Transcript, February 4, 1905, had another ad which provided more information. The hotel served both French and Italian cuisine, and offered a Lunch with wine for 40 cents and dinner with wine for 75 cents. The proprietors were Di Pesa & McCulloch, and the manager was William Maturo

The Boston Evening Transcript, September 29, 1906, published an ad for the Hotel Napoli, with a "high-class" French and Italian restaurant, located at 84-90 Friend Street. It was an “Up to date Bohemian Resort…,” that offered “Genuine Italian Spaghetti cooked in a hundred different styles.”

The Boston Evening Transcript, November 27, 1906, also had an ad for the Hotel Napoli, stating it was "the only high-class Italian restaurant in Boston.” It also stated, "The cuisine is modeled after the most celebrated cafes in Italy---." The proprietor was M. Di Pesa & Son, and their specialty was "a Neapolitan Meal served in Neapolitan style." 

The Boston Evening Transcript, December 26, 1906, noted that Marciano DiPesa, George E. McCulloch, and Alfred DiPesa, as M. DiPesa and Co., had applied for a liquor license as inn holders for the time from 11pm-Midnight. This was part of the city's new "midnight laws", extending the time when serving alcohol could be served. 

The Boston Journal, October 24, 1908, had an advertisement for the Hotel Napoli, with an address of 84-96 Friend Street. “The Hotel Napoli is the only high-class Italian restaurant in Boston. The cuisine is modeled after the most celebrated cafes in Italy—an entrancing spot that seems to have been transplanted from Naples to the heart of Boston. Our specialty is a Neapolitan Meal served in Neapolitan style.” The proprietors were M. Di Pesa & Son.

The Boston Herald, December 14, 1908, had another ad for Hotel Napoli, noting its Table d’Hote Dinner with Chianti for only 75 cents. The dining room has also been remodeled and redecorated. They also stated, "We claim it to be the only high class Italian restaurant in Boston,...

A remodeled Cafe. The Boston Evening Transcript, December 16, 1908, mentioned that the Italian cafe at the Hotel Napoli was now open after months of preparation. It had once been a Bohemian resort but had been transformed into a Renaissance dining-room. The entire lower floor of the hotel has now been given over to the restaurant, and it will now seat about 400 people. 

During the next few years, the Hotel Napoli would be mentioned numerous times as a place for various groups to celebrate and dine at the cafe. 

Milk crimes! The Boston Evening Transcript, May 2, 1911, reported that Alfred Di Pesa of the Hotel Napoli had been fined $10 for "offering milk for sale which was not up to standard." He was not the only one fined for a violation of this regulation. 

The Boston Evening Transcript, November 27, 1912, had a brief article that stated, "The Napoli has wide recognition as an Italian restaurant of the highest class and discriminating patrons of public dining rooms may frequently be found around its tablesIts table d'hote luncheons and dinners long have been popular because of the excellence of its food, its variety and the good service, always an essential factor in satisfactory dining."

Murder! The Boston Globe, May 21, 1913, reported William Janino, age 21, shot and killed Mrs. Margaret Pollack in the Hotel Napoli, before turning the gun on himself. Apparently, William had planned to marry Margaret within a day or two, but then suddenly learned that she was already married. 

Ten years after its opening, in October 1915, the Hotel Napoli offered a lunch table d'hote for 50 cents and a dinner for 75 cents. The price of lunch had risen only 10 cents and the price of dinner had remained the same. 

The Boston Globe, September 18, 1920, reported that the Hotel Napoli property had been acquired by the B&M Railroad Department of the Y.M.C.A. and it would be renovated and furnished. This would be a temporary home for the Y.M.C.A. as they are working on plans for a big new clubhouse. Thus, the Hotel Napoli closed, after fifteen years. 

However, a Napoli Restaurant then opened on Friend Street, and the Boston Post, October 8, 1920, posted a little ad for this new restaurant. 

The Boston Post, April 18, 1921, made it clear that this restaurant had replaced the Hotel Napoli. The ad indicated the Grand Opening of their Italian Pavilion, and that the managers included Giulio Labadini and Louis W. Scotti

The Boston Post, August 11, 1921, briefly indicated that the proprietor of the Napoli was Joseph di Pesa

A Prohibition raid! The Boston Globe, May 5, 1922, reported that Prohibition agents raided the Napoli Restaurant during their luncheon, when there were about 40 diners there. The agents ended up arresting 10 people, including three diners, for illegal possession of alcohol. Others arrested included Gaetano Spinelli, the chef and maybe a part-owner, and three waiters. The Boston Globe, May 6, then provided more details. The Feds had heard that wine was being served at the restaurant in coffee cups. It was said a bottle of wine could be purchased for $2.25. The wine cellar was searched and alcohol was confiscated, including moonshine. 

The Boston Globe, May 7, 1922, reported that the diners were discharged in court, although they were to appear as material witnesses, while the alleged proprietors were held in $500 for a hearing on May 12. The proprietors were alleged to be Gaetano Spinelli, Giulio Labadini and Louis W. Scotti. The waiters were held on various charges of selling and possessing.

The Boston Globe, May 24, 1922, reported on a hearing that day where it was questioned the right of the Prohibition Enforcement Supervisors James Roberts to inform Arthur Davis, head of the local Anti-Saloon League, of the raid on the Napoli. Commissioner Hayes stated that Roberts had no right to invite anyone except for his agents. The charges against Louis W. Scotti were dismissed, and the hearing for the other two defendants would take place later that day. 

The hearing took place on May 24 and May 25, and was then continued for a week. The Boston Globe, June 5, 1922, then announced the ruling of Commissioner Hayes, which dismissed the charges about Spinelli and Labadini. The Commissioner stated that the Prohibition agents were trespassers and that the evidence they found at the restaurant was illegally secured. The agents smashed down the door, which the Commissioner found to be an abuse of their search warrant, and thus they were trespassers.

Bankruptcy! The Boston Globe, May 5, 1925, noted that Napoli Restaurant had been forced into an involuntary bankruptcy by its creditors, and it appears this led to the closure of the restaurant. 
 
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Another new Italian spot. The Sunday Herald, October 7, 1906, had an ad for the Lombardy Inn, an Italian restaurant located at 1 Boylston Place, near the Colonial Theatre. It was set to open on October 10. It offered "Strictly Italian Cuisine" with "Italian and French Wines." More detail was provided in the Boston Herald, October 20, 1906, which noted that 1 Boylston Place had been leased to Michael F. Dillon and Emilie Columbo Dillon, to become The Lombardy Inn. 

The Boston Globe, March 9, 1907, mentioned that Michael F. Dillon and Emilie C. Dillon, had applied for liquor licenses as a Victualler and Wholesale Dealers for the Lombardy Inn. This was repeated in March 1908. 

The Boston Herald, September 27, 1908, noted that the Lombardy Inn, at 1 and 2 Boylston Place, had recently conducted extensive alterations and would reopen on September 30.

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Around 1910, the population of the North End was nearly 30,000, a rise of approximately 5,000 people in the last ten years. However, now Italians constituted about 28,000 people, with only a tiny percentage of non-Italians choosing to remain in the neighborhood.  

The Boston Herald, April 24, 1910, had an ad for the Lombardy Inn, at 1 and 3 Boylston Place, stating it was a "rendezvous for epicures."   

The Boston Evening Transcript, October 18, 1913, printed the above ad, claiming it was "Boston's Most Unique and Interesting Cafe and Restaurant."

The Boston Evening Transcript, January 12, 1914, had a brief section on the Lombardy Inn, noting, "It is away from the noise and bustle of the city and is a high-class Italian restaurant. Surrounded with a genuinely Bohemian atmosphere and located in the theatrical district, the place offers the discriminating diner the excellent dishes and wines, with Italian cooking."

A new hotel! The Boston Evening Transcript, October 2, 1915, had an advertisement announcing the opening of a new hotel at the Lombardy Inn, with numerous alterations intended to make it "attractive and comfortable." 

Four years later, bankruptcy! The Boston Globe, December 11, 1919, reported that the Lombardy Inn Co. Inc. had filed for bankruptcy, with liabilities of about $68,000 and assets of only $16,000. In January 1920, the fixtures and furnishings of the Lombardy Inn were put up for auction. After thirteen years of business, the Lombardy Inn was no more.

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A lengthy and fascinating article was published in the Boston Evening Transcript, April 13, 1907, and it was titled, Dining in Little Italy. The article began stating that “there are the large Italian restaurants—usually on the outskirts of Little Italy—and these are fairly well known to the prosperous ‘bourgeoisie” who like to order a ‘fiasco di Chianti’ and twist maccaroni in ‘The Music Master’ style around their forks,..” However, the article continued, “But it is the little ‘trattorie’ that are genuine and characteristic of everything Italian.” The article would then describe several of those small "trattorie," some of which were previously described in a Boston Herald article in 1904.  

The Trattoria Toscana, on Richmond Street, was described as “... a little, dingy place, with three or four oilcloth-covered tables, a small room at the back where the cooking is done, and a large icechest where butter—good, unsalted Italian butter—and wine are kept cooling.” It was then said, “The floor is sprinkled with sawdust, and around the tables sit Italians of all classes.” 

The restaurant was once owned by Bimbo (”baby”) Funai, so called because he was so round, rosy and blond. Bimbo had been an Anarchist, and his restaurant was a meeting place for other malcontents. However, once Bimbo made $8000, he moved back to Tuscany. Then, the cook, Tony, who's also known as Brescia, the name of his native town, became the owner. Tony made “scalpina alla marsala,” which consists of veal, cut very thin, browned with onions, and then stewed with marsala wine. He also made all kinds of maccaroni, with sauces, onions, and garlic. Your dinner here could then end with “caffe nera” (black coffee), gorgonzola or percolino cheese.  

The Genoese restaurant on North Street had a bocce alley that ran along the side of the building. The proprietor was Leveroni, who was married to a German woman. The restaurant cookes maccaroni in every fashion and “..the Genoese have an entrancing way of using mushrooms that the other colonies seem not to know.” They also offer risotto, with a thick, delicious sauce of chicken livers, mushrooms and a touch of garlic. An unusual dish is ‘ravioli’ that's consists of calves’ brains, peppers, mushrooms, onions and garlic, all baked in little triangles of pasta. Finally, “..there are salads, salads to dream of, …” 

There was a Bolognese trattoria on Cross Street that belonged to Scaroni, which "was picturesque and very Italian.” It came into the hands of Enrico Tassinari, one of the wealthiest Italians in the North End and the restaurant ran under the direction of his son, Johnny Tassinari, and it became more Americanized. In 1905, there was a fire there which killed Tassanari’s pet parrot, which could swear in two languages. Tassanari also owns the farm in Milford which I previously mentioned. 

He taught the writer of the article how to cook spaghetti, noting that “you must not break the spaghetti up when you out it on to boil. That makes it ‘bleed,’…and that is the destruction of spaghetti,…” It was also stated, “Next take one and a half pounds of lean beef, brown it carefully in a frying-pan with half a pound of salt pork chopped fine and one large onion. Then put the beef and onions on in a kettle, cover it with water, add half a can of tomatoes, and salt and pepper to taste. Let it slowly simmer until the mixture is a thick dark brownish red; pour it on the spaghetti,..” 

There was also a Sicilian restaurant, owned by Fratelli Ronca, which had failed and closed. It had also been the only real patisserie that Little Italy ever had and its delicious “paste cioti” were as good as anywhere.  Finally, Antonio Ciccone was a Neapolitan ‘confettatore’ who sold ices and cakes in the summer, and candy all year round. for special customers, he might also prepare ‘lasagne,’ a “finger-thick maccaroni.” 

The article ended, noting, “…the Italian quarter, where wine is cheap and good, and maccaroni is good and cheap,..” 

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A new Italian restaurant. The Boston Journal, October 15, 1907, had an ad for “Bova’s Italian Restaurant,” which was set to opens on October 18. The owner was Leo. E. Bova and Co. and the restaurant was located at 96-98 Arch Street, 15-17 Otis Street. The Boston Herald, October 16, 1907, published the above advertisement, noting it was opening on October 16, two days early. It had a seating capacity of 400, with private booths for small parties and private rooms for larger ones. 

A glimpse at their specimen menu. The Boston Globe, October 17, 1907, published an ad with a specimen menu. Some of the dishes included Spaghetti Napoletana, Rissotto Milanese, Braciolette, Escalloppes Veall alla Genoese, and Escarole. 

Business was booming! The Boston Herald, October 21, 1907, posted a notice that the restaurant was too busy and could not accept booth reservations after 6:30pm.

The Boston Herald, November 11, 1907, published another ad mentioning that they were so busy that they were now going to open up their men’s café to women too. There would also be a new orchestra on November 11.  

The Boston Herald, June 15, 1908, had an ad which mentioned their new Sala Italiana, Italian room, which will provide more room for their guests with better accommodations and service. 

The Boston Globe, December 17, 1913, published an ad for Cafe Bova, claiming it was "The Leading Italian Restaurant of Boston." A sample luncheon menu was provided, and the number of Italian dishes was relatively small. 

Five years later, Cafe Bova would run into some financial difficulties and it apparently closed in 1918. 

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Around 1907 or 1908, Giuseppe Parziale opened a bakery at 78 Prince Street, and it's claimed he first introduced pizza to the New England area. However, none of the newspapers at that time ever mentioned that fact. The Sunday Telegram, October 30, 1988, noted that the A. Parziale Bakery had a sign in their window proclaiming they were the “originators of pizza.” The article then continued, “the story goes that, 100 years ago, the present owner’s grandparents trained most of the bakers in the North End to make our American-style, thin-bottomed pizza.” Later, the Boston Globe, May 10, 2007, mentioned that A. Parziale & Sons Bakery was started in 1907 by a Neapolitan who first came to New York and then later came to Boston. It was also claimed that in the 1930s, the Parziales served slices of pizza from a push cart in Scollay Square for a nickel. However, that article didn't state they had introduced pizza to Boston.

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The Boston Globe, March 29, 1908, reported that Antonio G. Tomasello and Frank S. Bacigalupo had applied for a liquor license as Wholesale dealers at 201-205 Hanover as Savoy Wine & Importing Co.

The Boston Evening Transcript, May 23, 1908, had an ad for Savoy Wine & Importing Co., direct importers of Italian wines, and located at 201-205 Hanover Street. The ad contained some prices per case for Italian wines, varying from $6-$18. The company apparently lasted for another 11 years, when the Boston Globe, July 14, 1919, reported the Savory Wine partnership was dissolved. 

Eight years before, the Boston Globe, August 30, 1911, reported that Angelo I. and Frank S. Bacigalupo, as Tivoli Wine Co., applied to transfer their liquor license to sell as Victuallers at 858 & 860 Washington St. Then, the Boston Globe, March 22, 1913, reported they had applied for a liquor license to sell as Victuallers at 858 & 860 Washington St.

A few new restaurants. The Boston Evening Transcript, October 7, 1908, posted an ad for Angelo Café, located at 19 Hawley Street. It served lunch and dinner, including "special Italian dishes."

Back in 1877, there had been an Angelo Cafe at 40 Congress Street, but there was no indication it served Italian dishes. In 1880, the Angelo Cafe moved to 19 Hawley Street, taking over the spot of the former Vossler's. However, there was no mention in the newspapers of the Angelo Cafe for almost 30 years, until 1908. And then in early 1909, the cafe went into bankruptcy and was forced to close.

The spot once occupied by the Angelo Cafe would be taken over by another restaurant. The Boston Globe, March 26, 1910, reported that John S. and Giuditta Dondero applied for a liquor licenses as Victuallers and Wholesale Dealers at 19 & 21 Hawley Street. They would also apply for these licenses in April 1911. 

The Boston Journal, September 26, 1910, published an ad for Dondero’s, a new French and Italian restaurant, located at 19-21 Hawley Street, which served lunch and dinner.  

However, it appears the restaurant closed at the end of 1911, when the building was leased by a different customer. 

The Gondola Room, at 181 Hanover Street, in the Hotel Venice, opened on January 12, 1912. The Boston Globe, January 12, 1912, stated that Albert A. Golden opened the new restaurant, "one of the most beautiful Italian dining rooms in the city."

The Hotel Venice, formerly the Ludwig, was apparently opened in 1904, and then sold in 1907, and then sold again in 1908 to Albert A. Golden. It does not appear the Hotel had a restaurant until the Gondola Room opened. 

The Boston Herald, January 27, 1912, had an ad (pictured above) for the Gondola Room, which they claimed was the “Finest Italian Restaurant in New England.” The restaurant may only have lasted one more year. 

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The Boston Globe, August 18, 1912, reported that John B. Piscopo and Allen R. Frederick applied for a liquor license as Victuallers at 195-199 Hanover Street. 

An explosion! The Boston Evening Transcript, November 6, 1912, stated that there was a gas explosion at the cafe at 195-199 Hanover St. The cafe floor, made of cement, had been cleaned earlier that day with "gasolene." A lit match dropped on the floor, and ignored the gasolene. The blaze was out by the time the fire department arrived and there were no injuries. 

The Boston Journal, September 20, 1913, published an ad for an Italian Restaurant for Ladies and Gentlemen, located at 195 Hanover at Street and the proprietors were Piscopo and Frederick. However, the name of the restaurant is illegible in the newspaper copy. It appears the restaurant might have closed in 1914. 

The Boston Herald, November 23, 1912, had an advertisement for Café Vesuvius, “The Newest and finest Italian restaurant in Boston.” It was located at 27-29 Howard Street, and the manager was Felix, who was the former head waiter at the Hotel Napoli. However, the restaurant filed for bankruptcy in 1913.

Robbery! The Boston Globe, December 21, 1912, briefly noted that there was a robbery at the Italian restaurant of Angelo Lippi, located at 10 Dix Place in the South End. The Boston Globe, February 10, 1913, reported that Angelo Limi, age 36, was arrested at his restaurant for maintaining a nuisance. The police raided the place and found four men playing cards and they also seized four gallons of liquor.

The Boston Evening Transcript, January 29, 1913, ran an article about restaurants in the North End. to start, the article stated, “As the largest of the foreign colonies, the Italian Quarter naturally has more restaurants than any other.” However, “...there is a frequent history of rise, decline and final disappearance. New restaurants spring up every few months.” Unfortunately, many of those restaurants never received any coverage in the local newspapers. 

The article continued, “A minestra or an onion soup is apt to be excellent. Peppers are nowhere cooked better than in some of the cheap Italian restaurants of the North End, and one can hardly go astray as to any macaroni on the bill of fare. Kidneys and livers they make into admirable stews, and their spinach or boiled dandelion roots are good and wholesome. Tomatoes, too, they except in preparing for the table.” The article was not fully commentary though. “When it comes to oysters or fish, or the heavier meats, they are not so surely to be trusted, and their fried potatoes are deadly. As to chicken, it is the traditional delicacy of Southern Europe but it seldom pleases the native American diner in cheap Italian restaurants. Tripe, brains and such trifles are made extremely palatable.” 

The overall conclusion of the article stated, “In fact the a la carte Italian restaurant serves an astonishingly good and abundant meal for a very small sum.” In addition, “The company may not be elegant, but it is sure to be polite to the stranger.” 

The Boston Globe, March 14, 1914, noted that Stephen Fopiano, Corrado Bonugli, and George L. Casale, as Chianti Wine Co., applied for a liquor license as Victuallers at 198-200 Hanover Street. The name of the restaurant wasn't provided. Two years later, in March 1916, they would apply for this license again, but Corrado Bonugli was no longer involved. However, the Boston Post, March 8, 1917, indicated that the partnership had been dissolved and Fopiano had withdrawn from the business. Casale though remained in the business. The Boston Globe, March 24, 1917, indicated that George Casale and Anne Casale applied for a liquor license as Victuallers at 198-200 Hanover Street. 

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The Boston Evening Transcript, May 24, 1915, briefly mentioned the Posillipo and Sorrento restaurants in the North End. 

The Boston Herald, November 23, 1920, posted an advertisement for Posillipo, “The Only Strictly Italian Restaurant in Boston.” It was located at 145 Richmond Street and the proprietor was Turcos

The Boston Herald, August 19, 1927, had a brief ad for the "New Posillipo," although it was at the same location. What was new about it? 

The Boston Herald, September 8, 1929, also had a brief ad which mentioned "Now Open!" as if the restaurant had been closed for some reason.

The Boston Herald, March 12, 1933, had an ad for Posillipo, which offered "Famous Italian cuisine."

Maybe the last mention of Posillipo was in the Boston Globe, January 12, 1937, which briefly mentioned it.  

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The Boston Globe, August 4, 1917, reported that a woodsman from Maine felt he had been shortchanged at a cafe at 200 Hanover Street. He claimed he gave his waiter a $10 bill but only got change for a $5 bill. The woodsman pulled out a revolver, shot into the air, and struck a chandelier. The other customers fled and the woodsman was arrested by the police. 

Another new restaurant. The Boston Globe, July 3, 1917, had a small ad for the Blue Grotto, and Italian restaurant located at 292 Hanover Street, which had been remodeled and open for former and new patrons. So, this restaurant had been around since before July 1917, but for an unknown length of time. 

The Sunday Herald, January 11, 1925, had an ad for the Blue Grotto, but used its Italian name, GrottaAzzurra.

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The famed European Restaurant, located at 218A Hanover Street, allegedly opened in 1917, and would eventually close in 1997, eighty years later. However, this restaurant is illustrative of a matter which applies to a number of other famous Italian restaurants, a number which still exist today. These restaurants received little, if any, publicity in the local newspapers during their early years. They did not advertise in the newspapers, and articles failed to mention their presence. It's possible that these restaurants made little impact in their early years, and it wasn't until years later that they started acquiring their more iconic status.

For example, the first newspaper reference I found for the European Restaurant wasn't until 1921, four years after its opening. And it was a negative mention. The Boston Globe, July 2, 1921, reported that Max B. Walker of Revere has brought suit in Suffolk Superior Court for $2000 against Salvatore D’Albonigo and Donato Marrome, the proprietors of a restaurant at 218A Hanover Street. The suit alleged that Walker had gotten sick by eating cabbage which he claimed contained cockroaches. However, the newspapers never reported the outcome of this suit. 

There wasn't another mention of the restaurant until 18 years later. The Boston Globe, January 2, 1939, indicated that New Year celebrators had broken into a couple places seeking alcohol, including the European Restaurant, where they stole about $134 of liquor.  

Maybe the first advertisement for the European was in the Boston Herald, November 27, 1943, mentioning its spaghetti and ravioli. 

Jump ahead twenty years. The Jewish Advocate, September 19, 1963, presented a larger ad for the European, noting it was "The Oldest Italian Restaurant in Boston" and was established in 1917. 

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A celebrity customer. The Boston Globe, April 25, 1918, reported that Enrico Caruso, the famed tenor, had dined at Posillipo’s on Richmond Street. The Chef "... prepared a dish of spaghetti such as is seldom served to a mere American.” Surprisingly, Caruso refused to eat the spaghetti but he explained his reason. “He told the gathering that he had not eaten a dish of spaghetti—as much as he felt the self-denial—since Mr. Hoover’s request that wheat be conserved.” The chef was “consoled in the name of patriotism.”

The initial effects of Prohibition. The Sunday Herald, July 27, 1919, ran an article about the effects of Prohibition during its first four weeks. “A survey of the effects of prohibition upon business at Boston restaurants within the first four weeks discloses the expected result that cafes which existed almost wholly as dispensers of alcoholic refreshments are gradually being forced out of existence while others have suffered a reduction in patronage which they are endeavoring to offset by increasing their vogue as eating places.” To keep their customers, restaurants were offering other services instead of alcohol. “Dancing, music and caberet are first considerations of café owners as attractions to bring customers back."

In addition, food started to occupy more primacy. "To a greater extent than ever before the actual cooking and serving of food receives attention from proprietors. The chef has come back to stay.” the article continued, “The cafes are reverting to their character as purveyors of specialties in cooking. The French and Italian restaurants come first in this regard.” A few of those Italian spots, including Lombardy Inn, the Napoli, and the Lorraine, “are open and continue to cater to old customers, although not in former fashion. The convivial atmosphere is missing.” 

Obviously this article didn't mention any Italian restaurants which were illegally serving alcohol. It's likely some of them did so, but that would not have been advertised. 

By 1920, the population of the North End had increased to about 40,000, a rise of approximately 10,000 people in the last ten years. Italians now constituted about 97% of that population. 

The Boston Herald, February 6, 1920, had an ad for “Boston’s new and only typical Italian restaurant," The Frascati, at the Hotel Oxford on Huntington Avenue. It served lunch and dinner. 

The Boston Post, April 10, 1920, published the above ad, noting it served "True Italian Cuisine," although no specific dishes were listed. It offered a Table d'Hote luncheon for 75 cents and dinner for $1.50. The manager was William Maturo.

The Boston Post, January 5, 1921, had this new ad, mentioning their new "Venetian Room." Their special luncheon price had dropped to only 50 cents, and dinner had dropped to $1.25.

The Boston Post, January 7, 1921, noted they had a Fried Scallops special, for only 60 cents, which included tartare sauce, french fried potatoes, spaghetti, salad, dessert, and tea/coffee. 

The Boston Post January 21, 1921, mentioned two other dishes, Veal Chop Calabrese and Broiled Live Lobster.

Unfortunately, the Boston Globe, February 1, 1922, reported that Frascati filed for bankruptcy, with liabilities of about $20,000. This restaurant didn't last long. 

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The Sunday Telegram, December 22, 1918, published this ad for The Lorraine, an Italian restaurant, although this ad didn't mention that fact. However, it is possible that initially, the Lorraine was more of an American or French restaurant, and later changed to an Italian one, It offered a "High Class Cabaret," trying to attract people as they couldn't serve alcohol.

The Boston Globe, December 19, 1919, had this ad, claiming the Lorraine was the "Highest class restaurant in Boston." It served lobster, chicken and steak dinners, with no mention of Italian dishes. 

The Boston Herald, March 6, 1920, published a small ad for The Lorraine, the “Highest class Italian restaurant in Boston,” which was located next to the Schubert Theatre. This is the first mention that it was an Italian spot.

The Boston Herald, November 29, 1922, indicated the Lorraine offered a "Genuine New England Thanksgiving Dinner." Again, there was no mention that it was an Italian restaurant.

One of the last mentions of The Lorraine was in the Boston Herald, March 13, 1925, which once again failed to mention it was an Italian restaurant, and mentioned its lobster steak and chicken dinners. 

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Another shooting and murder at a restaurant. The Boston Globe, March 20, 1920, reported that Corrado Bonguli, the proprietor of an Italian restaurant on the 2nd floor of the Hotel Blackstone, Haymarket Square, was shot 3 times by Caleb Rankin. Caleb's wife, Eva, was a cashier at the restaurant, and it's thought Caleb was jealous of Eva and Corrado. Caleb was arrested. 

A prison sentence! The Boston Globe, May 17, 1920, reported that Caleb Rankin pled guilty to manslaughter and was sentenced to 8-13 years in State Prison. His wife, Eva, took the stand on his behalf and did state that Corrado had paid her attention, had visited her apartment, and took her for rides in his automobile. When Caleb entered the restaurant on the day in question, he saw Corrado kissing his wife. 

And then another shooting and murder. The Sunday Herald, July 25, 1920, reported that Antonio Salerno, age 25, shot and killed Rosina De Pasqua, age 27, in the main dining room of the Stella Italian restaurant, located at 2 Garden Court in the North End. He then turned the gun on himself and committed suicide. Salerno was a shoemaker, and was also married with a wife and two children in Italy. Rosina, who was also known as Rosia D’Abruzese, was married with a son about 7 years old. The cause of the murder might have been a lover’s spat.  

More details were provided in the Boston Post, July 25, 1920, on the murder at the Stella d'Italia. The victim, Rosie de Pasqua, was known as the "Queen of the North End cafes." Antonio became infatuated with Rosie, but his family warned him against her, claiming she had a bad reputation. However, "Much mystery surrounded 'Rosie's' true identity last night." People at three of the places she most frequented claimed that she came to Boston, from New York, about four years ago. She was known by other names, including Rose Abruzzese, Rose De Santo, Mrs. Bruno, and most commonly as "Pretty Rosie." Police claimed she once operated a brothel in the North End. About six months ago, Antonio allegedly met Rosie, and eventually started seeing her up to four times a week. He asked her to give up her wild life and live quietly. He gave her many gifts and often took her out to dinner. 

Fire! The Boston Globe, March 21, 1921, reported that a fire had raged in the Majestic Hotel in Bowdoin Square, causing about $3,000 of property damage. 

The Boston Post, May 20, 1921, published an ad for Majestic Restaurant, a new Italian restaurant, located at 3 Bowdoin Square, that opened that day. It also stated, “Our Delicious Spaghetti Will Be the Talk of the Town.” The management would be under Victor Pini and Anthony D’Angelo. There was another ad, on May 21, that mentioned they also offered Ravioli. Brief help wanted signs appeared through August 1923, so it doesn't appear this restaurant lasted two long.

The Boston Herald, December 31, 1924, had an ad for The Florence, an American Italian restaurant, located at 673 Washington Street. 

A wine-crazed attacker! The Boston Globe, June 22, 1926, reported that at the Florence Cafe, "An Italian, believed by the police to be wine crazed, known only as 'Tony,' staggered into the Florence Cafe, 673 Washington st, second floor, early today, stabbed two women and raced away to safety before arrival of police reserves..." Both women were hospitalized, one in serious condition, and the attacker was still on the loose.

The Boston Globe, June 23, 1926, reported the hunt for "Tony" was ongoing, and the police were aware of his identity and thought an arrest would occur soon. It was alleged Tony was refused service at the Cafe because it was 2am, and too later. It was noted he appeared intoxicated and he then stabbed a waitress and her friend. Both women are expected to recover.

Unfortunately, the newspapers didn't report any further on this matter, so it's unknown whether Tony was arrested or not. 

The Boston Herald, October 31, 1926, had an ad for The Florence, an Italian-American restaurant,  which was celebrating Halloween. Additional ads for the restaurant would extend to July 1928. 

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The famous Bova’s Bakery is said to have opened in 1926 at 79 Prince Street as A. Bova & Sons Bakery. The founder, Antonio Bova came to the U.S., from Calabria, Italy, in 1890 and eventually became an apprentice baker at a local bakery. Once again, this spot received no newspaper coverage in its early years, until a brief mention in the Boston Globe in March 1951. 

Also established in 1926 was Regina Pizzeria, sometimes referred to as Pizzeria Regina. It was founded by Luigi D'Auria at 11 1/2 Thacher Street in the North End. Once again, the restaurant received no newspaper coverage for its first eight years, until some notoriety at the end of 1934. 

The Boston Globe, December 31, 1934, reported that Sterlino Camperccio, age 21, and some friends were at the Regina Pizzeria and there was an argument with the management over whether one of his friends would be served alcohol due to his age. It devolved into a fight and Sterling was shot. The owner, Luigi D'Auria, age 64, of 98 Prince Street, was held for questioning. The Boston Herald, December 31, 1934, added that Luigi D'Auria had refused to sell a minor alcohol. In the subsequent fight, Sterlino Camperchio was shot in the lower back and was in serious condition.

The Boston Globe, February 12, 1935, then reported that Luigi, age 54 (different from the previous article stating he was 64) was being held for $2000 for the Grand Jury on the charge of assault and battery with a loaded pistol and intent to kill. Sterling still had a bullet located near his spine and his doctors wouldn't remove it and risk paralyzing him. It was alleged that one of Sterlino's friends was hit by a bottle and Sterlino went to his assistance. Then, Luigi held a chair to strike him, and Sterling knocked it out of his hands. As Sterlino next moved to the street, he was allegedly shot by Luigi.

Unfortunately, the fate of this case wasn't mentioned in subsequent newspapers, so its outcome is unknown. The next newspaper mention of Regina Pizzeria wasn't until 1943, but ads wouldn't start appearing until 1958.

The Boston Herald, January 21, 1926, had a small ad for The Capri Spaghetti Place, located at 257 Huntington Avenue. It made the claim that it was, "The finest Italian Restaurant in Boston." And it certainly wasn't the only restaurant that had made that claim. A few months later, they established a second location at 381 Hanover Street. However, their ads ended around November 1926, so it might have been a short-lived restaurant. 

Another restaurant owner killed. The Boston Globe, April 5, 1926, reported on the murder of Gennaro Accardo, a part proprietor at the Rome Garden, an Italian restaurant at 97 Broadway in the South End. He was shot in the back of the head by a 32 caliber pistol, but no weapon was found and initially there were no suspects. Two days later, a suspect was arrested and it was suspected there might be a love entanglement involved.

The Boston Herald, April 5, 1926, reported that Miss May DiCarlo, age 25, who was Gennaro's partner and former cashier, was being held as a suspicious person in this matter. She was the last person to see him alive. Then, the Boston Herald, April 7, 1926, noted that a third person, Luigi Garcaldo, was arrested, as it was thought he might know relevant information about the murder. The police were convinced that the murder was due to jealousy over a woman. The Boston Globe, April 13, 1926, reported that May DiCarlo had been released by the police. 

Unfortunately, there were no further newspaper articles about this murder, so the outcome is once again unknown. We don't know whether the police ever determined who murdered Gennaro Accardo. 

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There was a brief mention of the Capri Restaurant in October 1923, as well as a brief ad in the Boston Herald, March 3, 1924.

The Sunday Herald, January 11, 1925, also had an ad for the Capri Restaurant at 281 Hanover Street, noting it was on the second floor. 

The Boston Herald, January 17, 1927, briefly mentioned E.N. Reggiannici, located at 327 Water Street, which was an Italian and French bakery and a "real Italian restaurant."  

The Boston Herald, February 10, 1927, had a brief ad stating, “For Sale—Oldest Italian restaurant. 292 Hanover St.” The name of the restaurant wasn't provided. 

The Boston Herald, May 6, 1927, published an advertisement for Maria’s Italian Restaurant, located at 1 Haviland Street. 

Go to jail! The Boston Globe, January 18, 1928, reported that John Sorra, who owned an Italian restaurant at 86 Dover Street, had been sentenced to 9 months in the House of Corrections and fined $400 for liquor law violations. He had also been on probation for 3 prior cases, which helps explain why he was sentenced to jail.

The Boston Herald, April 22, 1928, had a small ad for the Eden Italian Restaurant, which was located at 106 Huntington Avenue and the proprietor was L.N. Turco. This restaurant had formerly been the Café Amalfi

The Boston Herald, September 1, 1929, posted an ad for the Eagle Italian Restaurant, located at 82 Huntington Avenue, and offered Italian-American dishes. They offered Ravioli each day, and had a $1 Every Day Special, which included Italian Antipasto, Minestrone Soup, and Spaghetti. 

The Boston Herald, September 20, 1929, has an ad for Cavana's Italian Restaurant, located at 335 Tremont Street.    

The Caffé Vittoria is claimed to be Boston's oldest Italian café having originated in 1929. However, the first newspaper reference to it wasn't until 1941 in the Boston Globe, June 24, 1941 in an article mentioning a fire at 294 Hanover Street, next door to the cafe at 296 Hanover. 

"When you really want to show some love, keep the flowers and say it with spaghetti."
--Rachel Ray

To Be Continued.... 

See also Chapter 1.

(Please be advised that this is a work in progress, as my research continues, and will be revised and expanded over time. )