An Early History of Boston's Italian Restaurants (Part 1)

"Spaghetti can be eaten most successfully if you inhale it like a vacuum cleaner." 

–Sophia Loren

What was the first Italian restaurant in Boston? 

A number of sources claim that it was Vercelli's, an Italian and French restaurant, which allegedly opened on Boylston Street in 1868. However, is that actually true? Is there evidence to prove Vercelli's was the first Italian restaurant? The sources making the claims about Vercelli's didn't offer any evidence or references to prove the veracity of the claim.    

My own in-depth research indicates Vercelli's wasn't the first Italian restaurant in Boston, and that it probably wasn't actually established until around 1881, not 1868.

So, let's take a look at the early history of Italian restaurants in Boston, from their origins, around 1867, until 1919. From 1920 and onwards, Boston, and especially the North End, would start to see some of its famous Italian restaurants open, some of which still exist today, such as Pizzeria Regina, The European and Cantina Italiana. In the near future, I'll expand on this history to cover the decades from 1920 and on.

A Caveat: We may never know the full extent of the earliest Italian restaurants in Boston, especially in the North End, as there were an unknown number of small places, catering primarily to Italians and where English was generally not spoken. Such places rarely warranted mention in local newspapers, and as they were also located in areas that many considered to be sketchy, non-Italians rarely ventured there, unless they were on a "slumming" trip. In addition, newspapers, especially in the early years, often referenced Italian restaurants without naming them. 

I'll also note that the earliest "Italian" restaurants were simply owned by Italians, but their menus had few Italian dishes, mainly pasta dishes, and commonly offered far more French or American dishes. In addition, menu items were rarely mentioned in the newspapers, except for a few dishes, such as Spaghetti and Ravioli. So, it can be difficult to get a full picture of the known Italian restaurants. In my future researches, I'll be trying to seek out old menus from these restaurants.  

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The North End was once a prestigious neighborhood but around the middle of the 19th century, poor German and Irish immigrants began settling in the North End, which drove the wealthy away. And by 1850, much of the North End was considered a slum neighborhood. During the 1860s and 1870s, some Italian immigrants also began settling in the North End.

The evidence seems to indicate that the earliest Italian restaurant in Boston, operated by J.M. Bonacina & Co., opened in 1867, a year before Vercelli's allegedly opened in 1868. Like Vercelli's, this was also a French and Italian restaurant. The Boston Herald, November 13, 1867, published this advertisement, noting the restaurant was located at 7 Bromfield Street and would open on the 14th. The management of the kitchen would be under "the most experienced and professional French Cooks in the city." The ad also stated, "Gentlemen will find at this Restaurant many dishes not served at any other place in Boston." This could refer to the Italian dishes they offered, which might not yet have been available anywhere else in Boston. However, this restaurant may not have done well, as this was the only mention I could locate about it.

It should be mentioned that a number of the first Italian restaurants did not offer a full Italian menu. Instead, they were owned by Italians, and offered only a few Italian dishes, and most often pasta, such as spaghetti and ravioli.  

Four years later, there was a curious item in the Boston Daily Evening Transcript, August 5, 1871. Under a column titled, “News & Miscellaneous Items,” there was a long list of brief bits, touching on Boston as well as other cities. One of those items stated, “In the Italian restaurants of this city—and the numbers are increasing fast—the consumption of eggs is something enormous. Eggs in some form or another are sure to be demanded by every customer as a supplement to the other dishes. Omelettes mixed with sausage are very popular; and a salad is never served up without hard-boiled eggs.”

This item didn't specifically state it referred to Boston, and could have referred to another city. At this time, there doesn't appear there were an increasing number of Italian restaurants in Boston. In fact, the newspapers at this time didn't mention the existence of any other Italian restaurants and none of the later references ever mentioned this alleged fascination with eggs. I suspect the item referred to another city, and not Boston

At this time, there were about 1,500 Italians in Boston, but the community was growing so that in the first half of the 1870s, the St. Leonard of Port Maurice Church as established on Prince Street, making it the first Italian parish in New England. In 1876, there were about 800 Italians in the North End, a couple hundred Italians in the rest of Boston, and about another 2000 in the surrounding communities. By 1880, about 26,000 people lived in the North End, mostly Irish, with about 1,000 Italians. 

Of these Italians, most of them were from Northern Italy, and many of them were able to purchase property in the North End. However, from 1880 to 1920, over four million Italian, mostly from Sicily and Southern Italy, immigrated to the U.S. They were fleeing from terrible economic conditions in Italy, and most were farmers, fishermen and laborers. Many didn't speak English, and the Northern Italians usually looked down on these Southerners. Many ended up living in crowded and dirty tenements, and eventually a number of Northerners left the North End to settle elsewhere. 

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The first Italian restaurant to open in the North End, of which we have specific evidence, was Chezzi's restaurant, located on North Street, roughly across the street from 150 North Street. The Boston Post, September 13, 1896, mentioned that Chezzi's existed at least as far back as 1872, and possibly earlier. Around 1874, Chezzi's restaurant moved across the street, to a small brick building at 148 & 150 North Street.

One of the cook's at his restaurant was Bernardo Ambrosoli, who probably started working there around 1872. In 1875 or 1876, Bernardo had saved enough money to buy out Chezzi, and it became his restaurant. However, the earliest newspaper to mention Ambrosoli was in 1881. Boston Globe, June 10, 1881, noted that Bernardo had applied for a liquor license at 148 North Street. A year later, the Boston Globe, May 29, 1882, noted he had applied once again for a liquor license for 148 North Street.

The Boston Daily Evening Transcript, January 5, 1883, discussed a private party that was held at Bernardo’s Italian restaurant. It was stated, “There is not more than one other place in Boston where a regular Italian dinner can be served,..” This seems to indicate there are few Italian restaurants in Boston at this time. The menu for the private party included “Chianti wine, thin sliced cylindrical sausage, vermicelli with grated cheese, rice with mushrooms, macaroni spiced, Brachetto wine, meat balls and fried potatoes, veal cutlets with lemon, celery and olives and oil, Gorgonzola Eborato cheese, black coffee, Razzetti straw cigars, Vino Vermouth, Malaga grapes, nuts, etc.”

There would be several brief references to Bernardo's restaurant throughout the next twelve years. Then, there was an assault on customers at the restaurant. The Boston Herald, April 15, 1895, reported that a couple customers at the restaurant disliked one of the dishes they ordered. They complained so forcibly that it angered their waiter, and soon after, dishes and chairs were flying around. In the end, two waiters arrested were arrested for assault and two days later it was reported that they had been convicted.

A record fine! The Boston Evening Transcript, August 22, 1895, reported that Bernardo Ambrosoli had to pay $1700, the “largest single fine received by the United States Revenue Department in this district in seven years.” Why? “He was found guilty of having taken whiskey from one cask and placing it in another without erasing the stamp. The Government claimed it had evidence that he had been doing that kind of business for years.”

A terrible tragedy. The Fall River Daily Herald, September 12, 1896, and the Boston Globe, September 12, 1896, and wrote that Bernardo Ambrosoli, age 54, had been shot and killed by a trusted employee, Charles Bacigalupo (age 48), “who was undoubtedly insane” and within 24 hours committed suicide. It was said that Charles had previously been subject to fits of insanity. The murder occurred on the third floor, where Bernardo slept. Bernardo was exiting his room when he encountered Charles, who shot him twice, in the right shoulder and the region of his heart. Previously, the two men had been very good friends.

It was noted that Bernardo was the proprietor of the Philharmonica, an Italian restaurant at 150 North Street. Another newspaper mentioned that the Philharmonic was his hotel, and that the restaurant was located inside the hotel. The Boston Post, September 13, 1896, mentioned that the hotel was "one of the best known Italian resorts in the district, and was often visited by the best people of the city when they went on slumming trips." The hotel has five floors, although only the first three were for business. the barroom was on street level while the restaurant was on the second floor. The third floor has several rooms for private dinners and the kitchen was located in the rear. The top two floors were rooms for the employees and Bernardo had a large room on the fourth floor. Charles had a room on the fifth floor, and had been an employee for 17 years.

It was also explained that five years ago, there was a disturbance in the barroom, and Charles ejected several guests. These "thugs" forced their way back in, and struck Charles in the head with a hammer. "For seven days he lay in the hospital with a fractured skull. It was a long time before he was able to resume his duties. When he did he was a different man. At times he was morose and sullen." About a week ago, Charles was told he was going to be replaced and left the hotel, not returning until the day of the murder.

As for Bernardo, it was said that he came to the U.S. in 1871, and "had learned the cook's art" but he couldn't find employment. He finally got a job as a laborer, but within a year, he had a new job as a cook at Chezzi's restaurant, on North Street, almost across the street from the future site of Bernardo's hotel.  About 22 years ago, around 1874, Chezzi's restaurant moved across the street, to a small brick building. A year or two later, Bernardo had saved enough money to buy out the owner, and it became his restaurant.

Some believed that Bernardo was worth about $500,000, while others felt it was closer to $250,000. He owned other businesses as well, including quarries in Quincy and Vermont, and two farms in Milford. In addition, he had a hotel, the San Bernard, in Milford.

The Boston Post, September 14, 1896, reported that the body of Charles Bacigalupo was found on the bank of the Neponset River in Hyde Park. He had committed suicide, shooting himself with the same revolver he used to kill Bernardo.

Initially, the Boston Globe, September 17, 1896, indicated that Robert Catani, and Guy Mafera, as Robert Catani & Co., had applied for a liquor license as inn holders of 148 North St., in Ambrosoli's hotel. However, the Boston Globe, September 30, 1896, then had a legal notice that Pietro Baruffi, Robert Catani, and Guy Mafera, as Pietro Baruffi & Co., had applied for a liquor license as inn holders of Hotel Ambrosoli at 148 and 150 North St. Then, the Boston Globe, December 21, 1896, reported that the Ambrosoli hotel, which had been closed, would reopen in two days by Pietro Baruffi, the nephew of Bernardo Ambrosoli. 

'The Ambrosoli hotel was briefly mentioned as still being in operation in a newspaper article in November 1899, but then references seemed to vanish.

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Around 1877 or so, there was a small Italian restaurant open on Church Street. The Boston Globe, October 23, 1892, briefly mentioned that “About 15 years ago there was a small Italian restaurant on Church st. that furnished a very good table d’hote dinner for a very little money.” 

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The Boston Evening Transcript, October 5, 1882, presented an PIC of ad for The Carrollton, which was located on Providence Street, and was now open, newly fitted and furnished. The Boston Evening Transcript, March 2, 1883, would later mention that The Carrollton was an Italian restaurant, located near the Public Garden.

The Boston Evening Transcript, July 16, 1883, published an ad for The Carrollton, noting it offered “All the Italian Dishes,” including a dinner, with a bottle of Italian wine, for $1.00.

The next day, the Boston Daily Advertiser, July 17, 1883, also had an ad for The Carrollton, claiming it was “The Original and Only Italian Restaurant.”

There were no further references to The Carrollton, so it might not have lasted long, for whatever reasons.

I'd like to note that in An Alphabetical Guide to Boston (1883), compiled by M.F. Sweetser & Moses King, it stated that the Italian restaurants in Boston included Bernardo's and the Carrolton.

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The Boston Evening Transcript, May 11, 1883, stated that Octave Brogi had applied for a liquor license as a Victualler at 200 Hanover St. Four years later, the Boston Globe, March 19, 1887, stated that Octave Brogi had applied for a liquor license as a Wholesale Dealer at 200 Hanover St. The next year, the Boston Globe, March 17, 1888, reported that Octave Brogi had applied for a liquor license as a Victualler and Wholesale Dealer for 200 Hanover St. This was repeated in March 1889. Three years later, the Boston Globe, April 1, 1891, had a notice that Octave Brogi had once again applied for a liquor license as a Victualler and Wholesale Dealer for 200 Hanover St. 

The Boston Post, March 20, 1897, noted that Octave and Adelaide Brogi, as Octave Brogi & Co., had applied for liquor licenses as Victualler and Wholesale Dealers at 198 and 200 Hanover St. The Boston Globe, April 1, 1899, indicated the Brogis applied for the same liquor licenses once again. And this would be repeated in March 1900, March 1902, March 1904, and March 1905 too.

Brogi's Italian Cafe! The Boston Post June 28, 1901, published an advertisement for Brogi's Italian Cafe, located at 198-200 Hanover Street. The ad states they have a "new and spacious restaurant" and that they are "One of the coolest spots in Boston." They stock all the popular brands of beer and ales on draught, as well Italian wines and liqueurs. A specialty was "Spaghetti A La Brogi." Octave Brogi was the proprietor and Eugene Brogi was the manager. 

This was the first time, since 1883, that Brogi's restaurant was given a name in the newspapers. It's unsure if "Brogi's Italian Cafe" was its name this whole time, or whether it changed at some point during the last 18 years. 

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There were other Italian restaurants in Boston around 1883, but the names of some are not known, and the newspapers at that time weren't always helpful. The Boston Post, August 2, 1883, reported, "In fact there are several good Italian restaurants in Boston where the national bill of fare can be enjoyed by anyone who is seeking for a ‘new sensation’ in the gastronomical line." The article continued, “One is located on Hanover street and is already familiar to many; another is on North street, and those who are not deterred by the unsavory reputation of the locality will find a rich treat in store for them. It is a regular Bohemian sort of place." As for the North Street restaurant, “Maccaroni spahette (sic) and polenta and other unnamable Italian dishes are served in the most delectable manner, and you are invited to aid digestion with generous draughts of genuine Chianti, poured from wicker-encased flasks with necks like the leaning tower of Pisa."

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Now let's return to the claim that Vercelli's was the first Italian restaurant in Boston, having opened on Boylston Street in 1868. The earliest newspaper reference I could find that was possibly related to Vercelli's was in 1881, thirteen years after its alleged founding. And the restaurant wasn't located on Boylston Street in 1881, although it would move there around 1885. 

The Boston Globe, June 10, 1881, indicated that James Mitchell had applied for liquor license for a restaurant located at 21 Lagrange Street. Three years later, the Boston Evening Transcript, April 25, 1884, briefly noted that “The Italian and French Table d’Hote at Vercelli’s, No.21 La Grange street, is to Boston what Martinelli’s is to New York.” Was Vercelli's the same restaurant connected to James Mitchell? There is nothing I found that would make such a connection. It seems more likely that Mitchell sold the spot to Vercelli's at some point. 

The first advertisement for Vercelli's was in Boston Evening Transcript, April 29, 1884. It was an Italian and French restaurant, and a specialty was "Tortoni Ice Cream." Tortoni was an almond-flavored ice cream or gelato, possibly invented by Giuseppe Tortoni, a Neopolitan who owned a cafe in Paris where he served the ice cream.

There was a brief mention in the Boston Globe, March 8, 1885, that the latest addition to Boylston Street was “Vercelli’s Italian restaurant.” The Boston Evening Transcript, March 14, 1885, presented an ad for Vercelli's Restaurant, now located at 52 Boylston Street. The restaurant served breakfast, lunch and dinner.

The King’s Handbook of Boston (7th ed, 1885), mentioned that Vercelli’s, "a capital Italian restaurant," opened in 1885 at 52 Boylston Street. This is further evidence that Vercelli's didn't open in 1868. 

The Boston Evening Transcript, January 6, 1886, posted a new ad for Vercelli's, noting that it had moved to 88 Boylston Street, and would re-open on January 14. 

The Boston Globe, January 15, 1886, briefly mentioned that the new location of Vercelli’s consisted of 3 floors of dining rooms, the largest which could seat 80 people. There were also "numerous cozy little rooms" which could accommodate small parties of 8-12 people.  

The Boston Evening Transcript, July 19, 1886, published an  ad mentioning that Vercelli's was also  a direct importer of “Chianti Wines and Flasks.”

There was a brief mention in the Boston Globe, June 15, 1890, that Joseph Vercelli and J. Morello were the proprietors of Vercelli’s. It was also mentioned in the Boston Evening Transcript, September 20, 1890, that Vercelli had leased 2 buildings on Beacon Street, planning to make one an Italian restaurant and the other a lodging house. However, the Boston Post, February 9, 1891, reported that Vercelli and Morello had dissolved their co-partnership as of December 1, 1890, although it appears Vercello kept ownership of the Boylston Street restaurant.  

Another move. The Boston Evening Transcript, June 15, 1891, reported that Vercelli's restaurant had moved a third time, now to 200 Boylston Street, and the Boston Globe, June 16, 1891, had a brief ad for the new location. 

A Christmas advertisement provided more details on Vercelli's. The Boston Evening Transcript, December 23, 1891, provided its location as 198 & 200 Boylston, and 36 & 38 Park Square. It was also noted they were an importer of Italian and French wines.  

Vercelli ran into some credit issues, but was able to resolve them. The Boston Evening Transcript, September 23, 1893, noted that he had made a cash settlement with his creditors, so the restaurant could continue to operate. Because of this good news, Vercelli offered special menus for Saturday and Sunday. The Saturday menu is shown above, and you'll note that the main Italian dish is "Spaghetti Napolitaine." 

The Sunday menu is pictured here, and you'll note the Spaghetti dish is joined by "Ravioli a la Piemontaise." The ad also mentions that the restaurant has “Rare old wines of Italian vintage.”

A Sunday dinner menu in the Boston Globe, October 1, 1893, offered Spaghetti Napolitaine or Ravioli a la Genoise. 

Unfortunately, the Boston Globe, February 25, 1894 reported that Joseph Vercelli, age 53, had died on February 23. The Boston Herald, February 26, 1894, added that he had been ill for several months and had died of dropsy, an old term which refers to the build-up of fluids in the tissues. He was survived by a wife and son. 

The Boston Globe, April 7, 1894, noted that Agnes M. Vercelli, Joseph's widow, had applied for liquor license for a restaurant at 59-63 Lagrange Street. The Boston Globe, May 21, 1894, then published the above ad, noting Mrs. Vercelli was now the proprietor of Vercelli's Restaurant, located at 59-63 Lagrange Street. So, obviously the restaurant moved once again, away from Boylston, and back to Lagrange.  

Another ad in the Boston Globe, August 11, 1894, noted that Vercelli's, under Agenes, was "still the Vercelli of old." 

Gas explosion! The Boston Globe, April 26, 1895, reported that there was a likely gas explosion in the cellar of Vercelli's, sustaining about $1000 in property damage. Only a couple people incurred minor injuries, including Joseph Vercelli, the son of Agnes.

A new hotel. The Boston Evening Transcript, December 19, 1895, noted that Agnes Vercelli and Vittorio Croce, as A.M. Vercelli & Co., had applied to transfer their liquor license from the Lagrange restaurant to 8 & 10 Hayward Place. The Boston Post, May 3, 1896, had the above advertisement for Hotel Vercelli, located at 8 & 10 Hayward Place, and which offered a Special Table D’Hote Dinner. 

Sadly, there was a death at the hotel. The Boston Globe, January 4, 1897, reported that Victor (Vittorio) Croce, age 34, who was one of proprietors of Hotel Vercelli, died, from gas in the room, which was probably an accident. He had been born in Italy and had no relatives in the U.S.

Shut down! The Boston Evening Transcript, January 24, 1901, reported that the Vercelli Hotel was shut down by the police. Apparently, it had been running practically as a restaurant under a second-class hotel license, and this situation had gone on for 5 years without anyone noticing. There were 25 private dining rooms but there weren't any sleeping rooms. A hotel without any rooms! The Boston Evening Transcript, February 5, 1901, added that Vercelli’s would be able to open as a restaurant, but would have to close on Sundays. The hotel license would be canceled and a new restaurant license woul be issued.

The Boston Globe, March 9, 1901, noted that Agnes Vercelli and Joseph Vercelli had applied for a liquor license for a restaurant as well as wholesale dealers for 8 and 10 Hayward Place. However, further mentions of the restaurant vanished after 1901, so it might not have lasted much longer after this point. Overall, Vercelli's existed for at least 17 years, and maybe a bit longer. 

And on a sad ending, the Boston Evening Transcript, April 5, 1907, mentioned that Agnes Vercelli died on April 3.

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In Bacon’s Dictionary of Boston (1886), by Edwin M. Bacon, there was an entry with a little information on the restaurants in the North End. “This is a squalid section, but it is sometimes penetrated by epicures, who do not mind a little dirt, to enjoy one of its peculiar features, the macaroni dinners at the dingy Italian restaurants on North Street; among them the “Ristoranti Filarmonica” and the “Ristoranti Nazionale.”

The Ristoranti Filarmonica extends back at least to 1884. The Boston Evening Transcript, March 8, 1884, noted, "On passing through North street, one reads the Italian sign, 'Ristorante Filamonica,' (Philharmonic Restaurant). Unhappily, on either side of the door below is seen in plain English, Lager Beer Saloon."

From other information, the Ristorante Filamonica might have been Bernardo's restaurant, which was located at 150 North Street, and once was referred to in the newspapers as the Philharmonica. 

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As an aside, when there were likely only a handful or so Italian restaurants in Boston, the Fall River Daily Herald, May 12, 1886, noted that New York City had 27 Italian restaurants, “some of them known all over the country, and there are some nobody would admit knowing.”

The Sunday Herald, March 6, 1887, briefly mentioned that there was an Italian restaurant located at 90 Cross Street, kept by Andrea Pietro. However, the Boston Globe, March 6, 1887, noted that Andrea had a saloon at 91 Cross Street. 

The Fall River Daily Herald, August 23, 1888, had an interesting article about the Italians in Boston, noting that there were currently about 8,000-10,000 Italians in Boston. The article then discussed macaroni, noting, “Macaroni is one of the cheapest of food products, and one of the most nutritious. An Italian macaroni factory, by the way, is a curious place to visit. There are a number of them in Boston.” It continued, “Macaroni is made by hand from flour and water. The dough is put into a cylinder about eighteen inches in diameter, the bottom of which is filled with holes. Then the dough is pressed through.” It then added, “the macaroni is then taken to a floor above and dried, when it is ready for use.” 

The article next noted, “Only Italians can make macaroni.” It was also noted, “Of course the quality of that made in Boston does not equal that made in Italy. There they do it differently. The grain grown in southern Italy is better adapted for the purpose. It contains more gluten than the grain of more northern countries. The wheat is ground in a mill and is then sifted five times. What is left from the last sifting makes, of course, the finest quality of macaroni. Then it is made into dough and kneaded.” 

The living conditions were then briefly discussed. “The Italian families live in tenements, usually three families to a room.” And then there was a more extended discussion of Italian organ grinders, hurdy gurdy men. "Their organs cost all the way from $75 for a fairly good one to $600 for a nice piano. the average is about $100." The organ grinders commonly are accompanied by monkeys. "The monkeys--those agile animals that delight the children--are picked up in various places. They are bought from sailors occasionally, but generally bought from dealers."

"Sometimes the Italian dispenses with his hand organ and takes to monkeys altogether. There is a man in Boston who has trained a lot of monkeys and who eats and sleeps in the same room with them. On one side of the room are the monkeys. There are seven or eight of them confined in cages on the walls. On the other side is the Italian.”

The Boston Globe, April 28, 1889, reported that 2000 liquor licenses had been applied for in the city, but only 780 were granted. 1500 saloons would find their liquor licenses soon revoked. 108 licenses were granted in the North End, although it wasn't broken down by restaurants and saloons. However, a number of licenses were revoked, and it was said, "In the North End there was an abundance of wailing and unhappiness,..." 

The granted licenses were broken down by address and provided the name of the license holder, which generally was not the name of a restaurant or saloon. There were 10 licenses granted on Commercial street, 7 on Causeway, 2 on Canal, 7 on Friend, 6 on Endicott, 6 on Fleet, 9 on Hanover, 3 on Haverhill, 6 on North Market, 17 on North, and more. It seems North Street was the busiest street for liquor in the North End. 

The Sunday Herald, May 19, 1889, contained a lengthy article on “North Street and Environs,” including delving into its history. North Street, one of the two principal streets in the North End, was previously known by other names, including Ann Street, Fore Street and Front St, although parts of the street, at various times, were also known as Fish Street, Draw Bridge, and Conduit Street. 

The article ranged through various topics, provided plenty of fascinating tidbits about the neighborhood. For example, “One of the oldest taverns in Boston was the Ship Tavern, which stood on the corner of North and Clark streets. It was built about 1650, and was only torn down a few years ago. It was known as Noah’s Ark, and was certainly a remarkable building.” In addition, it was mentioned, “What is now Harris street, next north of Clark, was once known as White-Bread alley, and is so laid down on the maps. It was named from the circumstance that the first penny rolls ever offered for sale in Boston baked there by Mme. Tudor.” 

A retired police officer spoke to the writer, providing additional background. “The Italians are driving the Irish out of North street, as the Irish drove out the Yankees. Most of the Italians settled on the street own the property they live in, or most of that occupied by Italians is owned by men of their nationality.” He continued, “When I came on this route, twenty off years ago, the neighborhood was a bad one. There were nightly brawls, drunkenness was rampant, and men were stabbed and shot down frequently.” In addition, he said, “When I came on this beat most of the shops from North square down to Fleet street were what are known as ‘jilt shops.”

In a jilt shop, women would sit in or near the door, trying to entice men passing by, asking them to come upstairs to their room. The woman would then accept money from the men, who believed the woman was a prostitute. However, before any activity began, the woman would make an excuse to  leave the room, promising to be back quickly. And she never returned, taking the man's money and leaving. The police would do nothing as the man had given the money for an illicit act. 

The officer then stated that there were no longer any jilt shops on North street. This was due to the influx of Italians. “They are usually a peaceable, industrious and thrifty people, and the street is now quiet and peaceable at night as any other in the North end.” He also said, “Altogether the injection of the Italian element into the North end seems to be a gain for that section of the city.” 

In a discriminatory comment, the officer noted there were 2 classes of Italians in the North end, the Northern and Southern. He said, “... the natives of Northern Italy are distinguished from those of the south, or Sicilian people, by their superior intelligence, finer physique, and for their capacity to get along in the world.” The Northerners were said to own most of the houses and many were quite wealthy. The Southerners composed most of the common laborers, and the families lived in very cheap tenements.  

Finally, the officer briefly discussed "cheap Italian restaurants, of which there are a considerable number on North street, some of which combine with the eating house the sale of beer and wine, groceries, maccaroni, bologna sausages, etc. There are also some good Italian restaurants where fine dinners are served with Italian wine accompaniment. Maccaroni is a national dish, and it can be found every day and at all times in an Italian restaurant.”

At this time, most of those restaurants remained largely nameless in the newspapers, and it's unknown exactly how many existed although it seemed significant. 

The Boston Globe, February 24, 1890, printed this ad for J.M. Hill’s Restaurant, located at Boylston and Washington Streets. Although most of their menu was French and American dishes, it did include “Beef Braisee and Spaghetti” and “Baked Bass Italienne.” Other advertisements for this restaurant, on April 18 and April 20, noted dishes of “Spaghetti au Gratin” and “Italienne Spaghetti, Parmesan Cheese.” Spaghetti seemed to be a very popular dish, and its uniqueness at the time probably helped its popularity as well.  

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The Boston Herald, March 26, 1890, noted that Frank Palladino & Co. had applied for a liquor licenses for his restaurant at 187 North Street. 

Frank Palladino. The Boston Post, May 5, 1891, described Frank Palladino as “with the phenomenal torso, a big, strong belt around it, with a long scar over one of his eyes, another over one of his cheeks..” He also owned an Italian restaurant in the North End. 

The Boston Globe, July 7, 1891, provided a little more detail, as well as information on some illegalities. Palladino's Italian restaurant was located at 187 North Street. The police raided 2 Quincy Court, which adjoined his restaurant in the rear. The police alleged he was conducting an illegal liquor business and during the raid they seized 50 gallons of wine, 10 gallons of rum, 5 gallons of brandy, 20 gallons of mixed liquors, several empty wine barrels, dozens of lager beer cases, and hundreds of bottles and empty jugs. 

The Boston Globe, March 17, 1892, noted that E.F. Palladino had a "saloon" at 187 North Street. It was also stated, "The saloon is a dark narrow place and bears an unsavory reputation. No liquor is supposed to be sold in the place, but it does a rushing business, and frequent friendly games of cards take place." Dishes of maccaroni are served there too. 

This illegal liquor business didn't seem to prevent Palladino from trying to obtain a liquor licenses for his restaurant. The Boston Post, March 30, 1894, noted that Frank Palladino and John Iannaco, as Frank Palladino & Co., applied for a liquor license for the restaurant at 187 North St. A special Italian dinner was held to celebrate its opening, and it was stated, "...the fine Italian cuisine the perfection of gastronomy." Mentions of this spot vanish around this point, and it appears the saloon might have closed as other businesses begin to show up at this address.

A new hotel. The Boston Post, April 21, 1895, stated that there was a new hotel, called both the Richmond House and the Richmond Hotel, at 104 Richmond Street and the proprietor was E.F. Palladino. It also doesn't appear this hotel lasted too long, and by 1901, the building and land were sold.

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The first macaroni factory in Boston was established, on North Street, sometime around 1879-1881. The Boston Evening Transcript, February 20, 1891, noted that “Macaroni is no longer a distinctly Italian article of food; it is fast becoming a favorite dish with native Americans, and ‘macaroni a l’Italienne’ is often on the bills of fare at the leading hotels.” The article continued, “Although macaroni is imported from Italy to a certain extent, most of that which is consumed in Boston and New England is manufactured in this city. There are but two firms in Boston engaged in the manufacture, and the proprietors and their employees are all Italians.” The article then went on to describe the two factories, but failed to name either one of them. 

The article began discussing the oldest macaroni factory first. “One of the concerns was started about ten or twelve years ago and it produced the first macaroni made in New England, the paraphrenalia necessary for its manufacture being brought from the sunny peninsula. These Italians made it by hand then and they make it by hand now…” It was located "on a short, narrow, dirty street down in the North End.”

The writer questioned one of the workers who described the machinery. ”On another side of the room was the apparatus used in the work. This consists of a great trough for mixing the dough, half a barrel of flour at a time; a queer looking triangular kneading board, with a great wooden knife attached to a two hundred pound stone weight suspended over it, lever fashion, the machine being worked by a man at the end of a ten-foot pole connected with the weight; and a cylinder about ten inches in diameter and two feet long, fastened securely in a vertical position. Over the cylinder is a large iron wheel, which is made to revolve by a lever in the hands of the workman. From the hub of the wheel runs an endless screw, and this screw forces an iron disc down into the big cylinder; the cylinder is capped at the lower end with a stout copper disc ‘peppered’ with many holes.”

At this factory, the macaroni is made by hand. “When the workman is going to make macaroni by hand ‘justa like Napoli,’ he puts half a barrel of flour into the big dough trough, pours in a sufficient quantity of tepid water, and with his hands and a big spoon works the mass into a thick paste. This requires twenty minutes of hard labor. The mass of dough is then transferred to the triangular kneading board, which has hard sides to keep the dough from falling off, and is briskly chopped for thirty or forty minutes with the great long-handled wooden knife suspended above the board.” The article provides additional details on the making as well. working by hand, two workers can turn two barrels of flour into macaroni. 

After the macaroni is produced, it is then packaged for sale. “When dry, the macaroni is packed in 25-pound boxes lined with tissue paper, and sold to grocers. It brings $1.25 a box, whereas the imported macaroni brings from $1.50 to $2.00 a box at wholesale. The broken pieces are packed in separate boxes, and sell at about 3 ½ cents a pound at wholesale.” It was also stated, “There are from twenty to thirty kinds of macaroni (that is, that number of different shapes) but this place only makes eight or ten.” 

The second factory, which other information would identify as the Boston Macaroni Company on Fulton Street which opened in 1890, used steam power rather than by hand. Because of the steam-powered machinery, “From six to ten barrels of flour are made into macaroni in a day,…” The owner was asked whether he could make macaroni as good as in Italy. The proprietor responded, "Perhaps not quite as good, because the climate is more moist in Boston, and great care must be taken to have the paste properly dried. That is the principal secret in its manufacture.” 

The article then ended with, “Macaroni can be served in an almost innumerable number of ways. Americans break it into small pieces and use it a great deal in soups; but the most popular way is to simply boil it and serve with a white sauce and grated cheese. Italians do not break it, but gradually push the sticks into the boiling water until they make a coiled mass. They serve with cheese, using tomato, chicken or some other inviting sauce. They use a wooden fork in serving, coiling the macaroni or spaghetti round and round, but this is a knack which Americans have yet to acquire.”

Unfortunately, the Boston Globe, June 13, 1894, reported that the Boston Macaroni Company had shut down as it had been operating at a loss and on December 14, 1892, the stockholders voted to dissolve it. The Court though didn't rule on the petition for dissolution until June 12, 1894. 

The Boston Post, July 22, 1894, discussed another macaroni factory on North St, “Raffael Veschi—Macaroni.” The first room was a shop selling lots of different types of macaroni and other Italian specialties. The back room was the factory. “The room was large and gloomy. All about were stacked, rack upon rack, long, shallow trays, full of freshly made macaroni. Over in one dark corner three men were energetically mixing in a deep trough the flour and water that forms the unshapen macaroni.” the article then went into plenty of detail about the production process. Finally, the article ended with, “You want to know the very best kind. You must ask for spaghetti or vermicelli, or toranti, or perciatellini, or stelline or seme di meloni, or tubbettini, or rosa marina, or tagliarellini or ricatoni.”

The Fall River Daily Evening News, March 12, 1900, noted that the Massachusetts Macaroni Company on North Street sustained a terrible fire. The fire led to the death of one fireman, who was struck by a fragment of falling wall and instantly killed. A second fireman was on the roof and struck by a water stream, which knocked him to the ground. Three others also sustained serious injuries. The building was ruined, incurring property damage of $75,000-$150,000. 

The Prince Macaroni Company, at 92 Prince Street, was founded in 1912 by 3 Sicilian immigrants: Gaetano LaMarca (administrator), Giuseppe Seminara (salesman) and Michele Cantella (pasta maker). As is well known, this company eventually became a huge success all across the country. 

A couple other macaroni factories were noted in 1916. The Boston Globe, March 13, 1916, reported that there had been a in the basement of the North End Macaroni Company, at 174 Endicott Street. The property damage was only about $1000, and no one was injured. The Boston Globe, May 22, 1916, noted the bankruptcy of the Gentile Macaroni Company, owned by Antonio Gentile, located at the corner of Salem and North Bennett Streets. 

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The Boston Globe, September 23, 1890, mentioned there were about 12,000 people residing in Little Italy while the Boston Post, May 5, 1891, noted there were 10,000-12,000 Italians in the entire city, most of them in the North End.  

The Boston Globe, January 9, 1891, briefly mentioned there was an Italian restaurant at 200 North Street, although its name wasn't noted.

The Boston Globe, April 1, 1891, noted that Guinasso and Lagorio applied for a liquor license as wholesalers and victuallers of 124 North Street.  

The Boston Globe, October 7, 1893, noted that Alexander F. Bianco and Pietro Arrighi applied for liquor license as Wholesale Dealers at 257 North and 12 Lewis Street, as well as a liquor license for a restaurant at that same location. There would be a notice of a similar application for a liquor licenses in February 1896. It was then briefly mentioned in the Boston Post, April 1, 1896, that Bianco and Arrighi had a new hotel, although its address wasn't provided. And only three months later, the Boston Globe, July 18, 1896, reported that their partnership of Bianco and Arrighi had been dissolved by mutual consent.

The Boston Globe, July 2, 1897, mentioned that Alexander Bianco, a liquor dealer on Washington St., had gone insolvent. 

Thirteen years later, the Boston Globe, March 12, 1910, stated that Alexander F. Bianco, Harry M. Hartshorn, and Ponziano Maturo, as Hartshorn & Co., sought a liquor license, as inn holders and wholesale dealers, for 198-208 North St, 20-22 North Square, part of the Hotel Sorrento. Then, the Boston Globe, March 28, 1914, had Alexander F. Bianco and Ponziano Maturo, as Bianco & Co. sought a liquor license, as inn holders, for the Hotel Sorrento. They would seek a similar liquor license in 1915 and 1918. 

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The Boston Globe, January 7, 1894, detailed the experiences of a party of gentlemen who decided to expand their palates and check out three foreign restaurants, including an Italian restaurant in the North End. They stated, “It was a queer place, with its jabber of patois, the musical clinking of many glasses, and its odd medley of guests, for here you may see all peoples, from a handsome, trig premier danseuse, who drives to the door in her carriage, to a respectable Irish mechanic who knows a good thing when he tastes it.” Their description continued, “The floor is sanded. On one side of the room, which is big and rather dark, is a grocery department. The shelves are filled with bottles of olive oil and packages of foreign dressing for fish and game. Oddly shaped cheeses are strung along the shelves and hang suspended from the ceiling.” In addition, “The restaurant proper is separated from this department by barrels and boxes of rice, macaroni and spaghetti. The spaghetti is made up with geometrical precision in the form of stars, crescents, anchors, crosses and triangles.” 

It was then mentioned, “The eating tables here are long and narrow. They are roughly made of wood and covered with cheap oilcloth, but they are clean.” Next, they stated, “On the table before them was an immense bowl filled with spaghetti, out of which they ate in common. At each man’s elbow was a large glass of a sour Tuscan wine, which the Italians drink as freely as water. It was a delight to watch those men eat spaghetti. They lifted the slippery, writhing links of it to their lips with a carelessness and ease that to the American looking on seemed simply marvelous. Eating spaghetti is an art that few outside of the Italian race have mastered.” 

The prices? “The one bill of fare which the place boasted was painted on a piece of board and nailed upon the wall where everyone might see it. In this restaurant nothing costs over 10 cents a plate, and with a glass of wine can get a very good dinner for 20 cents.” What an inexpensive meal. The gentlemen then enjoyed their meal.“As nearly as they could determine the novel dish was made up of cheese and macaroni and a sauce flavored with—well, no one but an Italian can ever tell what.” They stated, “Delicious! Was the unanimous verdict when they had finished.” They did have one complaint though. “The Italians may be able to make a man forget his sweetheart while eating one of their macaroni concoctions, but few of them know how to cook meats. These they serve hard and overdone.”

A Jewish spot in the North End! The article also mentioned, “The only Jewish restaurant in this city is on Hanover st. About 125 customers take meals there every day. There is a different bill of fare each day. The prices are high enough to keep out unwelcome customers, the price of dinner being 40 cents. The 40-cent dinner consists of soups, roast and boiled meats, including chicken, turkey or goose. Tea, coffee, milk, pie and pudding are served. The people who eat there are ‘everyday’ people.” 

Bones in your macaroni? The Boston Globe, November 17, 1895, ran a disturbing article about macaroni in Naples, Italy. The police had evidence that bones were being delivered to macaroni factories. "Investigation disclosed that the bones were ground finely and incorporated in the dough, because someone had discovered that bone meal imparts an extra 'delicious' flavor to the national dish." Rumors then spread that "most of these flavoring bones came from old graveyards,..." Thus, macaroni consumption in Naples is "down to zero."

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A customer fires a revolver, angry over his food. The Boston Post, December 23, 1895, reported an incident at a little Italian restaurant at 8 Moon Street, where the proprietor was Felico Frocoli, who was also the head waiter and cashier. One of his customers, Domenico Fogenito, was dissatisfied with his food and refused to pay. As he tried to leave the restaurant, there was an argument which led to Domenico drawing a revolver, and shooting twice, but missed each shot. He was later arrested by the police. 

However, the Boston Globe, December 23, 1895, had a slightly different story. It stated that the Moon street restaurant was run by Josephus Taracion (not Felico Frocoli), and that Domenica Fargcinto and Rigoro Castano entered his restaurant to get something to eat. As soon as they sat, it was claimed that began to abuse the waiters, and Josephus asked them to leave. They left, continuing to use abusive language, and then Fargcinto shot through the restaurant window. Both Fargcinto and Castano ended up arrested by the police.

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The Boston Herald, April 15, 1893, mentioned that Giuseppe Camia, Lorenzo Polcri, and Libero Peretti, as Camia, Polcri, & Peretti, applied for a liquor license as inn holders for 176 & 178 North St., and 133, 135 & 137 Richmond Streets, in the Hotel Roma. 

The Boston Herald, March 30, 1895, noted that Lorenzo Polcri and Maria Bonngli, as Lorenzo Polcri & Co., applied for liquor licenses as Victualler and Wholesale Dealers at 124 North St., which they would do again in March 1896 and March 1897. 

The Sunday Herald, December 13, 1896, had an ad for Lorenzo Polcri, noting him as an importer, wholesaler and retailer of wines and ales, with a specialty of Chianti. He also had an Italian and French restaurant at 124 North Street.

The Fitchburg Sentinel, August 28, 1897, posted an advertisement for Polcri's restaurant and liquor shop at 124 North Street. Polcri was an importer, wholesaler, and retailer of wines, liquors, cigars, and beers. At his restaurant, they served Italian and French cuisine, and macaroni was a specialty. 

Sad news. The Boston Globe, July 7, 1898, reported that La Bourgogne, a French liner, which was headed to Italy, sunk off Sable Island, off the coast of Nova Scotians. 6 Italians from were on board and only 1 of them. Unfortunately, Lorenzo Polcri, age 35, died.  

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As I mentioned above, in April 15, 1893, Giuseppe Camia, Lorenzo Polcri, and Libero Peretti, applied for a liquor license as inn holders for 176 & 178 North St. in the Hotel Roma. The Boston Herald, March 30, 1894, reported that Mary Camia and Frank Marotta applied for liquor license as Victuallers and Wholesale dealers at 176-178 North St. Was Mary related to Giuseppe Camia? And was this still the Hotel Roma? In March 1895, Mary and Frank would apply for a similar liquor license.

The Boston Daily Advertiser, March 27, 1897, noted that Frank Marotta and Angelina Marotta, had applied for a liquor license as Victuallers and Wholesale dealers of 176-178 North St. Mary Camia was no longer in the picture. 

Attempted murder! The Boston Herald, June 3, 1897, reported that Salvator Conso, age 22, was arrested for trying to kill Frank Marotta, age 40, the thproprietor of a saloon and restaurant at the corner of North and Richmond Streets. Conso and two friends entered the saloon, drank a bottle of wine, and refused to pay for it. Marotta had words for them and they left but as Conso reached the sidewalk, he turned and fired two shots at Marotta’s head, both which missed. I couldn't find out what happened to Conso.

In 1902 Frank Marotta entered bankruptcy, and no longer owned the saloon and restaurant.  

Spaghetti Chianti? The Boston Globe, April 30, 1896, had an ad for the Romolo-Remolo French & Italian restaurant, located at 846-848 Washington St. It noted the specialties included Spaghetti, Chianti, Broiled Live Lobster and Musty Ale. I believe the ad is missing a comma between Spaghetti and Chianti, as I doubt they meant "Spaghetti Chianti." The Table d’Hote dinner, with wine, only cost 50 cents.

There was another ad for Romolo-Remolo in the Boston Post, September 5, 1896. The Table d’Hote dinner, with a pint of claret wine, was 60 cents, or 75 cents in a private room The menu choices were listed, with very few Italian options. The Spaghetti a la Napolitaine was said to be a specialty.

The Boston Evening Transcript, November 3, 1897, briefly mentioned an Italian restaurant at 296 Commercial Street.  

Where did the North End get its groceries? The Boston Globe, October 28, 1900, stated that “Little Italy is full of ‘grosserias’ or Neapolitan and Genoese ‘botteghe,’ that sell all kinds of Italian provisions.” Most of those shops were supplied by New York farms, or received imports from Italy.  “But the most prosperous ‘grosseria’ in the North end is the one exception that proves this rule, since it is supplied in all these particulars by the products of an Italian farm in Milford, Mass.”

This farm was owned by Sig Enrico Tasinari, a prosperous Italian from Bologna, although the farm was originally owned by Bernardo Ambrosoli. Upon Bernardo's death, the farm was put up for auction and Tasinari bought the buildings and 85 acres of farmland. He even grows some grapes there, to make “vino nero,” black wine.

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Around 1900, the North End had a population of about 24,000, with about 15,000 of them being Italian. This neighborhood had truly become "Little Italy," and the Italian population would only continue to grow. At this time, there were also about 5,000 Jewish people living in the North End.

The Boston Globe, December 16, 1900, had a brief mention of Damiano’s Italian restaurant in the North End. 

Another murder in an Italian restaurant! The Boston Herald, February 18, 1903, reported that Vincenzo Penta, a contractor, was slain by Beningno Santosusso, a laborer, in an Italian restaurant on Moon Street in the North End. “It was another case of an Italian cutting affray, for which the North end is famous, differing from the ordinary cases only in detail and in the capture of the alleged murderer.”; The restaurant, owned by Alesandro Servitella, was located in the basement of the dwelling house at 20 Moon Street, only a block away from a fatal shooting from last week. Penta entered the restaurant, just to start a fight with Santosusso, and insulting him before striking him a couple times. Then, it seems Santosusso used a knife, killing Penta and he fled.  

"Don’t Snub the Spaghetti.” That was the title of an article in the Boston Post, December 20, 1903. The article stated that people dined at Italian restaurants for the spaghetti. However, it was claimed that you never knew when you would receive the spaghetti during the meal. However, the article then claimed that the only way to surprise the employees and other patrons was to declare “I don’t care for spaghetti! Take it away.” 

A lengthy article about North End's Italian restaurants appeared in 1904. The Boston Herald, February 21, 1904, stated, "If you are very hungry some day when you want a good, substantial dinner, and your pocket is unfortunately low, then go to Little Italy." There were details about a Tuscan restaurant, kept by Bimbo Funai, who claimed to be from Florence. He brings the crusty bread and unsalted butter to your table. Some of the dishes he serves includes polenta, minestra, scalpina alla marsala (onions and veal), and a variety of garlic flavored dishes. "In the Tuscan restaurant you will meet all classes of men, and all trades. Bimbo has no prejudices."

Enrico Tassanari was the proprietor of the Bolognese restaurant, and might have been the wealthiest man in Little Italy. His restaurant is described as a "long smoky room, hung with strings of dried mushrooms and garlic and peppers, the low, dark wine-stained tables, and the cheese-piled counter behind which the pretty Italian girls stand to serve out smiles and spaghetti." This is a more formal restaurant than that of Bimbo. The menu is on a chalkboard, and you will see items like pig's feet, spaghetti and boiled cabbage. 

There is also Leveroni's Genoese restaurant, and their menu was printed on paper. He serves dishes such as tagliarini shredded with mushrooms and garlic spiked ravioli. 

The article then differentiates between Northern and Southern Italian restaurants. "Beyond doubt the best restaurants are kept by northern Italians, and while southern Italy makes the music, the northerners cook the food." And the article ends with, "Nowhere else can you dine so nicely and so well, so abundantly and so cheaply as in Little Italy,..."

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The Boston Globe, March 5, 1904, reported that Vincent and Catherine Tassinari had applied for a liquor license as Victuallers and Wholesale dealers at 148 North Street. This location once used to be the Hotel Ambrosoli. However, two years later, the Boston Globe, August 10, 1906, noted others were now seeking a liquor license for this location. Carmine Paglinca and Gaetano Balboni applied for a liquor license as Victuallers and Wholesale dealers.  

Another death in a restaurant. The Boston Globe, June 8, 1908, reported on an incident at the restaurant of G. Paglianca (probably a spelling error) at 148 North Street. One of the cooks was Antonio Pinotti, a very jealous man who constantly fought with his wife. This time, he shot his wife and then shot and killed himself. Although his wife survived at first, she died two days later of the gun shot wounds.  

The Boston Globe, March 1, 1912, reported that Carmine Paglinca and Josie Luongo had applied for a liquor license as Victuallers at 148 North Street.

An assault on Carmine! The Boston Globe, August 13, 1912, reported that two young men assaulted Carmine Paglinca in his saloon at 148 North St. One of them actually attempted to shoot Carmine, but the gun was wrestled away from him before he could fire. The two young men were both arrested. 

The Boston Globe, March 1, 1912, reported that Carmine Paglinca and Sylvia Paglinca had applied for a liquor license as Victuallers at 148 North Street. 

Carmine was assaulted again! The Boston Globe, June 25, 1913, reported that at Municipal Court, it was learned that Carmine Paglinca, who owns a saloon and pool hall at 148 North St., was stabbed twice in the last six months. He was stabbed twice by Lugi Paprida, age 27. In the current case, Carmine had been stabbed in his left shoulder and left leg. Carmine is related to Lugi through marriage, but the two have been unfriendly for a long time. Six months ago, Lugi was found guilty of assault for stabbing Carmine, fined $25 and placed on six months probation. In the current case, the matter was sent to the Grand Jury.

The outcome of this case wasn't mentioned in the newspapers, and Paglinca's saloon also stopped being mentioned. It's possible Carmine chose to close the saloon after this second stabbing.

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Another shooting at an Italian restaurant! The Boston Journal, November 7, 1904, reported on a shooting at an Italian restaurant, owned by Antonio Liberatori, at 7 Prince Street. Ernest Alesso, 30 years old, was a waiter at the restaurant. Giovanni Pisano, age 32, ordered some pies, but when he learned how long he would have to wait, he decided to leave and not pay. He got into a "scrimmage" with Alesso, who retrieved a revolver from behind a counter and fired three shots at Pisano, hitting him in the right cheek, shoulder and abdomen. A Help Wanted ad in the Boston Globe, February 28, 1902, sought 2 waitresses, so it seems this location was a restaurant at this time. It's unclear whether Liberatori owned the restaurant at that time or not. 

The Boston Herald, July 12, 1905, reported that Tony Leonardi, age 40, an Italian restaurant owner, the proprietor at 212 North Street, drowned in Lake Chebacco near Essex. Tony came to America when he was fifteen and “amassed a comfortable fortune.” He used to live at 294 Hanover Street. 

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A new hotel with Italian cuisine opens. The Boston Evening Transcript, January 11, 1905, printed an ad for a new hotel, the Hotel Napoli, which was supposed to open the next day. It was located at 84-90 Friend Street and offered, "Strictly First Class Italian Cuisine."

The Boston Evening Transcript, February 4, 1905, had another ad which provided more information. The hotel served both French and Italian cuisine, and offered a Lunch with wine for 40 cents and dinner with wine for 75 cents. The proprietors were Di Pesa & McCulloch, and the manager was William Maturo. 

The Boston Evening Transcript, September 29, 1906, published an ad for the Hotel Napoli, with a "high-class" French and Italian restaurant, located at 84-90 Friend Street. It was an “Up to date Bohemian Resort…,” that offered “Genuine Italian Spaghetti cooked in a hundred different styles.”

The Boston Evening Transcript, November 27, 1906, also had an ad for the Hotel Napoli, stating it was "the only high-class Italian restaurant in Boston.” It also stated, "The cuisine is modeled after the most celebrated cafes in Italy---." The proprietor was M. Di Pesa & Son, and their specialty was "a Neapolitan Meal served in Neapolitan style." 

The Boston Evening Transcript, December 26, 1906, noted that Marciano DiPesa, George E. McCulloch, and Alfred DiPesa, as M. DiPesa and Co., had applied for a liquor license as inn holders for the time from 11pm-Midnight. This was part of the city's new "midnight laws", extending the time when serving alcohol could be served. 

The Boston Journal, October 24, 1908, had an advertisement for the Hotel Napoli, with an address of 84-96 Friend Street. “The Hotel Napoli is the only high-class Italian restaurant in Boston. The cuisine is modeled after the most celebrated cafes in Italy—an entrancing spot that seems to have been transplanted from Naples to the heart of Boston. Our specialty is a Neapolitan Meal served in Neapolitan style.” The proprietors were M. Di Pesa & Son.

The Boston Herald, December 14, 1908, had another ad for Hotel Napoli, noting its Table d’Hote Dinner with Chianti for only 75 cents. The dining room has also been remodeled and redecorated. They also stated, "We claim it to be the only high class Italian restaurant in Boston,..." 

A remodeled Cafe. The Boston Evening Transcript, December 16, 1908, mentioned that the Italian cafe at the Hotel Napoli was now open after months of preparation. It had once been a Bohemian resort but had been transformed into a Renaissance dining-room. The entire lower floor of the hotel has now been given over to the restaurant, and it will now seat about 400 people. 

During the next few years, the Hotel Napoli would be mentioned numerous times as a place for various groups to celebrate and dine at the cafe. 

Milk crimes! The Boston Evening Transcript, May 2, 1911, reported that Alfred Di Pesa of the Hotel Napoli had been fined $10 for "offering milk for sale which was not up to standard." He was not the only one fined for a violation of this regulation. 

The Boston Evening Transcript, November 27, 1912, had a brief article that stated, "The Napoli has wide recognition as an Italian restaurant of the highest class and discriminating patrons of public dining rooms may frequently be found around its tables. Its table d'hote luncheons and dinners long have been popular because of the excellence of its food, its variety and the good service, always an essential factor in satisfactory dining."

Murder! The Boston Globe, May 21, 1913, reported William Janino, age 21, shot and killed Mrs. Margaret Pollack in the Hotel Napoli, before turning the gun on himself. Apparently, William had planned to marry Margaret within a day or two, but then suddenly learned that she was already married. 

Ten years after its opening, in October 1915, the Hotel Napoli offered a lunch table d'hote for 50 cents and a dinner for 75 cents. The price of lunch had risen only 10 cents and the price of dinner had remained the same. 

The Boston Globe, September 18, 1920, reported that the Hotel Napoli property had been acquired by the B&M Railroad Department of the Y.M.C.A. and it would be renovated and furnished. This would be a temporary home for the Y.M.C.A. as they are working on plans for a big new clubhouse. Thus, the Hotel Napoli closed, after fifteen years. 

However, a Napoli Restaurant then opened on Friend Street, and the Boston Post, October 8, 1920, posted a little ad for this new restaurant. 

The Boston Post, April 18, 1921, made it clear that this restaurant had replaced the Hotel Napoli. The ad indicated the Grand Opening of their Italian Pavilion, and that the managers included Giulio Labadini and Louis W. Scotti. 

The Boston Post, August 11, 1921, briefly indicated that the proprietor of the Napoli was Joseph di Pesa. 

A Prohibition raid! The Boston Globe, May 5, 1922, reported that Prohibition agents raided the Napoli Restaurant during their luncheon, when there were about 40 diners there. The agents ended up arresting 10 people, including three diners, for illegal possession of alcohol. Others arrested included Gaetano Spinelli, the chef and maybe a part-owner, and three waiters. The Boston Globe, May 6, then provided more details. The Feds had heard that wine was being served at the restaurant in coffee cups. It was said a bottle of wine could be purchased for $2.25. The wine cellar was searched and alcohol was confiscated, including moonshine. 

The Boston Globe, May 7, 1922, reported that the diners were discharged in court, although they were to appear as material witnesses, while the alleged proprietors were held in $500 for a hearing on May 12. The proprietors were alleged to be Gaetano Spinelli, Giulio Labadini and Louis W. Scotti. The waiters were held on various charges of selling and possessing.

The Boston Globe, May 24, 1922, reported on a hearing that day where it was questioned the right of the Prohibition Enforcement Supervisors James Roberts to inform Arthur Davis, head of the local Anti-Saloon League, of the raid on the Napoli. Commissioner Hayes stated that Roberts had no right to invite anyone except for his agents. The charges against Louis W. Scotti were dismissed, and the hearing for the other two defendants would take place later that day. 

The hearing took place on May 24 and May 25, and was then continued for a week. The Boston Globe, June 5, 1922, then announced the ruling of Commissioner Hayes, which dismissed the charges about Spinelli and Labadini. The Commissioner stated that the Prohibition agents were trespassers and that the evidence they found at the restaurant was illegally secured. The agents smashed down the door, which the Commissioner found to be an abuse of their search warrant, and thus they were trespassers.

Bankruptcy! The Boston Globe, May 5, 1925, noted that Napoli Restaurant had been forced into an involuntary bankruptcy by its creditors, and it appears this led to the closure of the restaurant. 

 

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Another new Italian spot. The Sunday Herald, October 7, 1906, had an ad for the Lombardy Inn, an Italian restaurant located at 1 Boylston Place, near the Colonial Theatre. It was set to open on October 10. It offered "Strictly Italian Cuisine" with "Italian and French Wines." More detail was provided in the Boston Herald, October 20, 1906, which noted that 1 Boylston Place had been leased to Michael F. Dillon and Emilie Columbo Dillon, to become The Lombardy Inn. 

The Boston Globe, March 9, 1907, mentioned that Michael F. Dillon and Emilie C. Dillon, had applied for liquor licenses as a Victualler and Wholesale Dealers for the Lombardy Inn. This was repeated in March 1908. 

The Boston Herald, September 27, 1908, noted that the Lombardy Inn, at 1 and 2 Boylston Place, had recently conducted extensive alterations and would reopen on September 30.

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Around 1910, the population of the North End was nearly 30,000, a rise of approximately 5,000 people in the last ten years. However, now Italians constituted about 28,000 people, with only a tiny percentage of non-Italians choosing to remain in the neighborhood.  

The Boston Herald, April 24, 1910, had an ad for the Lombardy Inn, at 1 and 3 Boylston Place, stating it was a "rendezvous for epicures."   

The Boston Evening Transcript, October 18, 1913, printed the above ad, claiming it was "Boston's Most Unique and Interesting Cafe and Restaurant."

The Boston Evening Transcript, January 12, 1914, had a brief section on the Lombardy Inn, noting, "It is away from the noise and bustle of the city and is a high-class Italian restaurant. Surrounded with a genuinely Bohemian atmosphere and located in the theatrical district, the place offers the discriminating diner the excellent dishes and wines, with Italian cooking."

A new hotel! The Boston Evening Transcript, October 2, 1915, had an advertisement announcing the opening of a new hotel at the Lombardy Inn, with numerous alterations intended to make it "attractive and comfortable." 

Four years later, bankruptcy! The Boston Globe, December 11, 1919, reported that the Lombardy Inn Co. Inc. had filed for bankruptcy, with liabilities of about $68,000 and assets of only $16,000. In January 1920, the fixtures and furnishings of the Lombardy Inn were put up for auction. After thirteen years of business, the Lombardy Inn was no more.

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A lengthy and fascinating article was published in the Boston Evening Transcript, April 13, 1907, and it was titled, Dining in Little Italy. The article began stating that “there are the large Italian restaurants—usually on the outskirts of Little Italy—and these are fairly well known to the prosperous ‘bourgeoisie” who like to order a ‘fiasco di Chianti’ and twist maccaroni in ‘The Music Master’ style around their forks,..” However, the article continued, “But it is the little ‘trattorie’ that are genuine and characteristic of everything Italian.” The article would then describe several of those small "trattorie," some of which were previously described in a Boston Herald article in 1904.  

The Trattoria Toscana, on Richmond Street, was described as “... a little, dingy place, with three or four oilcloth-covered tables, a small room at the back where the cooking is done, and a large icechest where butter—good, unsalted Italian butter—and wine are kept cooling.” It was then said, “The floor is sprinkled with sawdust, and around the tables sit Italians of all classes.” 

The restaurant was once owned by Bimbo (”baby”) Funai, so called because he was so round, rosy and blond. Bimbo had been an Anarchist, and his restaurant was a meeting place for other malcontents. However, once Bimbo made $8000, he moved back to Tuscany. Then, the cook, Tony, who's also known as Brescia, the name of his native town, became the owner. Tony made “scalpina alla marsala,” which consists of veal, cut very thin, browned with onions, and then stewed with marsala wine. He also made all kinds of maccaroni, with sauces, onions, and garlic. Your dinner here could then end with “caffe nera” (black coffee), gorgonzola or percolino cheese.  

The Genoese restaurant on North Street had a bocce alley that ran along the side of the building. The proprietor was Leveroni, who was married to a German woman. The restaurant cookes maccaroni in every fashion and “..the Genoese have an entrancing way of using mushrooms that the other colonies seem not to know.” They also offer risotto, with a thick, delicious sauce of chicken livers, mushrooms and a touch of garlic. An unusual dish is ‘ravioli’ that's consists of calves’ brains, peppers, mushrooms, onions and garlic, all baked in little triangles of pasta. Finally, “..there are salads, salads to dream of, …” 

There was a Bolognese trattoria on Cross Street that belonged to Scaroni, which "was picturesque and very Italian.” It came into the hands of Enrico Tassinari, one of the wealthiest Italians in the North End and the restaurant ran under the direction of his son, Johnny Tassinari, and it became more Americanized. In 1905, there was a fire there which killed Tassanari’s pet parrot, which could swear in two languages. Tassanari also owns the farm in Milford which I previously mentioned. 

He taught the writer of the article how to cook spaghetti, noting that “you must not break the spaghetti up when you out it on to boil. That makes it ‘bleed,’…and that is the destruction of spaghetti,…” It was also stated, “Next take one and a half pounds of lean beef, brown it carefully in a frying-pan with half a pound of salt pork chopped fine and one large onion. Then put the beef and onions on in a kettle, cover it with water, add half a can of tomatoes, and salt and pepper to taste. Let it slowly simmer until the mixture is a thick dark brownish red; pour it on the spaghetti,..” 

There was also a Sicilian restaurant, owned by Fratelli Ronca, which had failed and closed. It had also been the only real patisserie that Little Italy ever had and its delicious “paste cioti” were as good as anywhere.  Finally, Antonio Ciccone was a Neapolitan ‘confettatore’ who sold ices and cakes in the summer, and candy all year round. for special customers, he might also prepare ‘lasagne,’ a “finger-thick maccaroni.”

The article ended, noting, “…the Italian quarter, where wine is cheap and good, and maccaroni is good and cheap,..”

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A new Italian restaurant. The Boston Journal, October 15, 1907, had an ad for “Bova’s Italian Restaurant,” which was set to opens on October 18. The owner was Leo. E. Bova and Co. and the restaurant was located at 96-98 Arch Street, 15-17 Otis Street. The Boston Herald, October 16, 1907, published the above advertisement, noting it was opening on October 16, two days early. It had a seating capacity of 400, with private booths for small parties and private rooms for larger ones. 

A glimpse at their specimen menu. The Boston Globe, October 17, 1907, published an ad with a specimen menu. Some of the dishes included Spaghetti Napoletana, Rissotto Milanese, Braciolette, Escalloppes Veall alla Genoese, and Escarole. 

Business was booming! The Boston Herald, October 21, 1907, posted a notice that the restaurant was too busy and could not accept booth reservations after 6:30pm.

The Boston Herald, November 11, 1907, published another ad mentioning that they were so busy that they were now going to open up their men’s café to women too. There would also be a new orchestra on November 11.  

The Boston Herald, June 15, 1908, had an ad which mentioned their new Sala Italiana, Italian room, which will provide more room for their guests with better accommodations and service. 

The Boston Globe, December 17, 1913, published an ad for Cafe Bova, claiming it was "The Leading Italian Restaurant of Boston." A sample luncheon menu was provided, and the number of Italian dishes was relatively small. 

Five years later, Cafe Bova would run into some financial difficulties and it apparently closed in 1918. 

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A few new restaurants. The Boston Evening Transcript, October 7, 1908, posted an ad for Angelo Café, located at 19 Hawley Street. It served lunch and dinner, including "special Italian dishes."

Back in 1877, there had been an Angelo Cafe at 40 Congress Street, but there was no indication it served Italian dishes. In 1880, the Angelo Cafe moved to 19 Hawley Street, taking over the spot of the former Vossler's. However, there was no mention in the newspapers of the Angelo Cafe for almost 30 years, until 1908. And then in early 1909, the cafe went into bankruptcy and was forced to close.

The spot once occupied by the Angelo Cafe would be taken over by another restaurant. The Boston Globe, March 26, 1910, reported that John S. and Giuditta Dondero applied for a liquor licenses as Victuallers and Wholesale Dealers at 19 & 21 Hawley Street. They would also apply for these licenses in April 1911. 

The Boston Journal, September 26, 1910, published an ad for Dondero’s, a new French and Italian restaurant, located at 19-21 Hawley Street, which served lunch and dinner.  

However, it appears the restaurant closed at the end of 1911, when the building was leased by a different customer. 

The Gondola Room, at 181 Hanover Street, in the Hotel Venice, opened on January 12, 1912. The Boston Globe, January 12, 1912, stated that Albert A. Golden opened the new restaurant, "one of the most beautiful Italian dining rooms in the city."

The Hotel Venice, formerly the Ludwig, was apparently opened in 1904, and then sold in 1907, and then sold again in 1908 to Albert A. Golden. It does not appear the Hotel had a restaurant until the Gondola Room opened. 

The Boston Herald, January 27, 1912, had an ad (pictured above) for the Gondola Room, which they claimed was the “Finest Italian Restaurant in New England.” The restaurant may only have lasted one more year. 

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The Boston Globe, August 18, 1912, reported that John B. Piscopo and Allen R. Frederick applied for a liquor license as Victuallers at 195-199 Hanover Street. 

An explosion! The Boston Evening Transcript, November 6, 1912, stated that there was a gas explosion at the cafe at 195-199 Hanover St. The cafe floor, made of cement, had been cleaned earlier that day with "gasolene." A lit match dropped on the floor, and ignored the gasolene. The blaze was out by the time the fire department arrived and there were no injuries. 

The Boston Journal, September 20, 1913, published an ad for an Italian Restaurant for Ladies and Gentlemen, located at 195 Hanover at Street and the proprietors were Piscopo and Frederick. However, the name of the restaurant is illegible in the newspaper copy. It appears the restaurant might have closed in 1914. 

The Boston Herald, November 23, 1912, had an advertisement for Café Vesuvius, “The Newest and finest Italian restaurant in Boston.” It was located at 27-29 Howard Street, and the manager was Felix, who was the former head waiter at the Hotel Napoli. However, the restaurant filed for bankruptcy in 1913.

Robbery! The Boston Globe, December 21, 1912, briefly noted that there was a robbery at the Italian restaurant of Angelo Lippi, located at 10 Dix Place in the South End. The Boston Globe, February 10, 1913, reported that Angelo Limi, age 36, was arrested at his restaurant for maintaining a nuisance. The police raided the place and found four men playing cards and they also seized four gallons of liquor.

The Boston Evening Transcript, January 29, 1913, ran an article about restaurants in the North End. to start, the article stated, “As the largest of the foreign colonies, the Italian Quarter naturally has more restaurants than any other.” However, “...there is a frequent history of rise, decline and final disappearance. New restaurants spring up every few months.” Unfortunately, many of those restaurants never received any coverage in the local newspapers. 

The article continued, “A minestra or an onion soup is apt to be excellent. Peppers are nowhere cooked better than in some of the cheap Italian restaurants of the North End, and one can hardly go astray as to any macaroni on the bill of fare. Kidneys and livers they make into admirable stews, and their spinach or boiled dandelion roots are good and wholesome. Tomatoes, too, they except in preparing for the table.” The article was not fully commentary though. “When it comes to oysters or fish, or the heavier meats, they are not so surely to be trusted, and their fried potatoes are deadly. As to chicken, it is the traditional delicacy of Southern Europe but it seldom pleases the native American diner in cheap Italian restaurants. Tripe, brains and such trifles are made extremely palatable.” 

The overall conclusion of the article stated, “In fact the a la carte Italian restaurant serves an astonishingly good and abundant meal for a very small sum.” In addition, “The company may not be elegant, but it is sure to be polite to the stranger.” 

The Boston Globe, March 14, 1914, noted that Stephen Fopiano, Corrado Bonugli, and George L. Casale, as Chianti Wine Co., applied for a liquor license as Victuallers at 198-200 Hanover Street. The name of the restaurant wasn't provided. Two years later, in March 1916, they would apply for this license again, but Corrado Bonugli was no longer involved. However, the Boston Post, March 8, 1917, indicated that the partnership had been dissolved and Fopiano had withdrawn from the business. Casale though remained in the business. The Boston Globe, March 24, 1917, indicated that George Casale and Anne Casale applied for a liquor license as Victuallers at 198-200 Hanover Street. 

The Boston Globe, August 4, 1917, reported that a woodsman from Maine felt he had been shortchanged at a cafe at 200 Hanover Street. He claimed he gave his waiter a $10 bill but only got change for a $5 bill. The woodsman pulled out a revolver, shot into the air, and struck a chandelier. The other customers fled and the woodsman was arrested by the police. 

Another new restaurant. The Boston Globe, July 3, 1917, had a small ad for the Blue Grotto, and Italian restaurant located at 292 Hanover Street, which had been remodeled and open for former and new patrons. So, this restaurant had been around since before July 1917, but for an unknown length of time.

A celebrity customer. The Boston Globe, April 25, 1918, reported that Enrico Caruso, the famed tenor, had dined at Posillipo’s on Richmond Street. The Chef "... prepared a dish of spaghetti such as is seldom served to a mere American.” Surprisingly, Caruso refused to eat the spaghetti but he explained his reason. “He told the gathering that he had not eaten a dish of spaghetti—as much as he felt the self-denial—since Mr. Hoover’s request that wheat be conserved.” The chef was “consoled in the name of patriotism.”

By 1920, the population of the North End had increased to about 40,000, a rise of approximately 10,000 people in the last ten years. Italians now constituted about 97% of that population. 

"Man, who don't like spaghetti?"

--Rodney Dangerfield

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To Be Continued....

(Please be advised that this is a work in progress, as my research continues, and will be revised and expanded over time.)