Over time, as teriyaki came to the U.S., the recipe has seen some changes and variations. Additional ingredients are sometimes added, such as ginger, garlic, or pineapple juice. However, when did teriyaki first come to the U.S.?
The Chicago Tribune (IL), January 23, 1950, also provided a Teriyaki recipe, although it noted that it's an expensive dish because of the high quality steak cut needed.
The Honolulu Star-Advertiser (HI), February 18, 1950, briefly mentioned that chicken teriyaki was available at a local restaurant.
The Brooklyn Eagle (NY), October 19, 1950, mentioned that Steak Teriyaki skewers was a favorite appetizer in Hawaii. It then offered the above recipe, which was provided by the Dole Pineapple company. This is the first mention of the use of pineapple juice, although it's likely it was used in other Hawaiian recipes due to the prevalence of pineapple on the islands. Pineapple juice provides sweetness, and it also contains bromelain enzymes which assist in tenderizing the steak.
The Honolulu Star-Advertiser, November 12, 1950, provided its on recipe for Teriyaki Steak, and it didn't include pineapple juice.
The Charlotte News (NC), December 8, 1950, in an article on Hawaiian ways, provided a simple recipe for Teriyaki sauce for steak.
The Honolulu Star-Advertiser, October 12, 1952, noted, “The word ‘teriyaki’ as described in an English-Japanese dictionary and thanks to the Library of Hawaii reference desk, means ‘fish broiled with shoyu.’ So we take it, that steak broiled with shoyu carries the same name principally because of that widely used ingredient.” the article continued, “Mainlanders know shoyu only as a blackish liquid placed on the table of Chinese restaurants or Japanese eating houses where sukiyaki is a favorite. In Hawaii, shoyu is given in hundreds of recipes and imparts a flavor all its own. Teriyaki is a wonderful dish for a barbecue supper and simple it is to prepare.” The article also presented a Teriyaki beef recipe.
The earliest mention of teriyaki extends back to at least 1889. The Detroit Free Press (MI), December 8, 1889, published an article about a Japanese dinner, and noted, “The next course consisted of young bamboo shoots (resembling somewhat our asparagus) cooked in soy sauce and mirin. With these were mushrooms, dry, cured in salt, and salmon soaked first in soy sauce and then broiled, but eaten cold. This is called teriyaki.”
The Times Union (NY), January 8, 1900, briefly mentioned that at the last “national dinner” held at the Montauk club was to be a Japanese dinner. “Teriyaki” was listed on their proposed menu, but no description was provided. The Brooklyn Eagle (NY), January 14, 1900, provided more details, stating, “Teriyaki (bluefish with spinach) was well liked. It was made from blue fish cut up, placed into a roasting pan and Soya sauce and mushrooms added. The whole was then allowed to cook in the oven until soft, which required about twenty minutes. The spinach was boiled, hashed and a little salt added. This was served cold.”
These first mentions seemed to connect mushrooms to the use of teriyaki sauce. This might have been coincidental, as further mentions rarely mentioned mushrooms. However, those mushrooms would have intensified the umami aspect of the soy sauce.
A Japanese restaurant in Ohio. The Plain Dealer (OH), March 8, 1903, mentioned that there was a Japanese restaurant, called the Mikado, in Cleveland and its menu included “teriyaki (which is a kind of fish).”
The Honolulu Star-Advertiser (HI), March 27, 1906, briefly noted a Japanese dinner that included “Teriyaki….Broiled Fish with Soy.” And the Kansas City Star (MO), September 13, 1908, related that a popular menu in Yokohama included “Teriyaki: Roast Fish.”
The Paducah Sun (KY), July 14, 1910, mentioned that in New York City there was now its first Japanese restaurant. There had been a number of Japanese tea houses for the last several years, but none of them were considered actual restaurants. The new restaurant offered, teriyaki, "equivalent to broiled fish."
The first teriyaki recipe, in English, might have been published in 1916. The Chattanooga News (TN), May 19, 1916, mentioned that The Allied Cook Book, arranged by Grace Clergue Harrison and Gertrude Clergue, consisted of recipes of many different nations. One of the Japanese recipes included “salmon teriyaki.” The Brooklyn Eagle (NY), June 16, 1916, published a copy of that recipe, pictured above. The recipe was very simple, consisting of only soy sauce and mirin.
It wasn't until the 1940s that teriyaki began to become front and center in U.S. newspapers, and this time also heralded the creation of Teriyaki Steak. Teriyaki had long been primarily used for seafood, but in Hawaii, they began using it for steak, and this likely started sometime during the late 1930s. It's unknown who actually created teriyaki steak, but it seems fairly definite that it began in Hawaii. However, during the 1940s, in Hawaii, there were almost no references to teriyaki on seafood.
The Times Union (NY), January 8, 1900, briefly mentioned that at the last “national dinner” held at the Montauk club was to be a Japanese dinner. “Teriyaki” was listed on their proposed menu, but no description was provided. The Brooklyn Eagle (NY), January 14, 1900, provided more details, stating, “Teriyaki (bluefish with spinach) was well liked. It was made from blue fish cut up, placed into a roasting pan and Soya sauce and mushrooms added. The whole was then allowed to cook in the oven until soft, which required about twenty minutes. The spinach was boiled, hashed and a little salt added. This was served cold.”
These first mentions seemed to connect mushrooms to the use of teriyaki sauce. This might have been coincidental, as further mentions rarely mentioned mushrooms. However, those mushrooms would have intensified the umami aspect of the soy sauce.
A Japanese restaurant in Ohio. The Plain Dealer (OH), March 8, 1903, mentioned that there was a Japanese restaurant, called the Mikado, in Cleveland and its menu included “teriyaki (which is a kind of fish).”
The Honolulu Star-Advertiser (HI), March 27, 1906, briefly noted a Japanese dinner that included “Teriyaki….Broiled Fish with Soy.” And the Kansas City Star (MO), September 13, 1908, related that a popular menu in Yokohama included “Teriyaki: Roast Fish.”
The Paducah Sun (KY), July 14, 1910, mentioned that in New York City there was now its first Japanese restaurant. There had been a number of Japanese tea houses for the last several years, but none of them were considered actual restaurants. The new restaurant offered, teriyaki, "equivalent to broiled fish."
It wasn't until the 1940s that teriyaki began to become front and center in U.S. newspapers, and this time also heralded the creation of Teriyaki Steak. Teriyaki had long been primarily used for seafood, but in Hawaii, they began using it for steak, and this likely started sometime during the late 1930s. It's unknown who actually created teriyaki steak, but it seems fairly definite that it began in Hawaii. However, during the 1940s, in Hawaii, there were almost no references to teriyaki on seafood.
The Honolulu Star-Advertiser (HI), July 21, 1940, briefly mentioned “Teriyaki Steak,” as a reader asked if someone could share a recipe for this dish.
Other proteins also began to see the application of teriyaki. For example, the Topaz Times (UT), December 4, 1943, briefly mentioned, “Serve him chicken teriyaki.”
Back to Hawaii. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), February 15, 1946, published an ad for the grand opening of a Japanese restaurant which offered “Teriyaki Steak, Broiled Over Charcoal.”
Other proteins also began to see the application of teriyaki. For example, the Topaz Times (UT), December 4, 1943, briefly mentioned, “Serve him chicken teriyaki.”
Back to Hawaii. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), February 15, 1946, published an ad for the grand opening of a Japanese restaurant which offered “Teriyaki Steak, Broiled Over Charcoal.”
The Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), April 21, 1947, has a restaurant ad, and one of their menu options was "Teriyaki Steak with Rice." Then, the Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), June 26, 1947, published a different restaurant ad, which stated, "So tender, it melts in your mouth! Try Olympic's Broiled Teriyaki Steak."
The Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), August 28, 1947, discussed a special event, the Outdoor Steak Fry, which offered “Teriyaki steak, broiled on sticks.” The article continued, “To newcomers: Teriyaki steak is beef soaked in a combination of soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, juice of fresh ginger and other seasonings.” This teriyaki sauce has more ingredients than earlier versions.
Chicken teriyaki again. The Northwest Times (WA), December 2, 1947, had a brief mention of "chicken teriyaki."
The Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), February 12, 1948, provided a recipe for a "teriyaki steak sauce", which had slightly different from the recipe mentioned in the Outdoor Steak Fry article. However, this recipe was recommended for use on a pork loin.
Another recipe. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), November 10, 1949, published the above recipe, noting it could be used for chicken, pork or steak. This is the first recipe to include MSG as an ingredient. For its sweet ingredient, it uses molasses rather than mirin or sugar.
Chicken teriyaki again. The Northwest Times (WA), December 2, 1947, had a brief mention of "chicken teriyaki."
Another recipe was provided in the Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), April 22, 1948.
The Northwest Times (WA), July 14, 1948, mentioned that in Portland, Oregon, there would be some Japanese cooking classes, and they would teach how to make "pork and beef teriyaki."
Teriyaki Turtle! The Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), November 10, 1949, published an article named "Turtle Steak." It was all about turtles, including their culinary uses, and there was a mention that the pectorals are commonly used for steak and some fishermen broil them "teriyaki style."
During the 1950s, Teriyaki steak spread to the continental U.S., and it was often referred to as a Hawaiian dish. And steak was their primary protein for teriyaki. In Hawaii, they began using their teriyaki more often on seafood, although steak, chicken, and pork remained prominent.
The Honolulu Star-Advertiser (HI), February 18, 1950, briefly mentioned that chicken teriyaki was available at a local restaurant.
The early 1950s also saw numerous mentions of seafood teriyaki in Hawaii, including Saba (Japanese mackerel), Agemaki (commonly fish paste in a spiral shape), Ika (squid), Tako (octopus), Ayu (sweetfish, part of the trout family), Ebi (Shrimp), and more.
This recipe would also be published in other newspapers, including the Herald News (NJ), October 19, 1950, the Tampa Tribune (FL), October 20, 1950, the Evening Star (D.C.), October 23, 1950, the Press & Sun-Bulletin (NY), November 1, 1950, the Hartford Courant (CT), November 5, 1950, the Valley Times (CA), April 27, 1951, the Buffalo News (NY), July 28, 1952, the Indianapolis News (IN), August 14, 1952, the Tyler Morning Telegraph (TX), September 12, 1952, and more.
The Santa Barbara News-Press (CA), March 10, 1951, published an ad for a restaurant, with a Hawaiian theme, which served a "Teriyaki Tidbit."
The San Francisco Examiner (CA), June 30, 1951, mentioned the opening of a new Japanese restaurant, which would serve "charcoal style Teriyaki."
The Hawaii Tribune-Herald (HI), December 27, 1951, provided a recipe for Ebi No Teriyaki (shrimp).
The San Francisco Examiner (CA), June 8, 1952, presented a restaurant advertisement, which offered, “chicken teriyaki.”
The Brooklyn Eagle (NY), August 12, 1952, noted that “Teriyaki steak is a favorite served in Hawai and we think it will become one of your favorites, too.” The article continued, "Less expensive steak cuts are tenderized by marinating in the sauce, or you may use it with hamburger." They also provided a recipe from the Hawaiian Electric Co., Ltd., made with only soy sauce, sugar, garlic and ginger. With hamburgers, the recipe suggested, "two or three tablespoons of the sauce should be combined with the meat when mixing and shaping the patties. Then let them soak in the sauce...."
The San Francisco Examiner (CA), June 8, 1952, presented a restaurant advertisement, which offered, “chicken teriyaki.”
The Brooklyn Eagle (NY), August 12, 1952, noted that “Teriyaki steak is a favorite served in Hawai and we think it will become one of your favorites, too.” The article continued, "Less expensive steak cuts are tenderized by marinating in the sauce, or you may use it with hamburger." They also provided a recipe from the Hawaiian Electric Co., Ltd., made with only soy sauce, sugar, garlic and ginger. With hamburgers, the recipe suggested, "two or three tablespoons of the sauce should be combined with the meat when mixing and shaping the patties. Then let them soak in the sauce...."
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In the subsequent decades, Teriyaki would become even more popular, and it would be seen less and less as a Hawaiian creation. It would be used for many different proteins, especially at Asian restaurants. And many different recipes and variations would be created all across the country. In 1961, the first commercially bottled Teriyaki sauce was available, the Kikkoman Teriyaki Marinade. However, it's an easy sauce to create rather than purchase commercial versions.
Here's my own recipe, and many people have enjoyed its taste. I often make large batches and hand out bottles to family and friends, and they often ask for more, or the recipe. It's a simple recipe, but versatile and flexible. You can prepare a small batch quickly for dinner, or create a larger batch to bottle and save for another time.
Garlic Teriyaki Sauce
Ingredients:
7 ounces of Soy Sauce
7 ounces of Soy Sauce
7 ounces of Sake
7 ounces of Mirin (A type of rice wine made for cooking)
1 ounce of Sugar
1 heaping Tablespoon of Minced Garlic (Add more if you want)
Directions: Mix all the ingredients in a pan and cook over a medium heat until it boils, stirring frequently so that all the sugar (or honey) dissolves. That’s it! You can use this sauce as a marinade or dipping sauce, and it can be used with any protein, vegetables, or whatever else you enjoy.
Suggestions:
7 ounces of Mirin (A type of rice wine made for cooking)
1 ounce of Sugar
1 heaping Tablespoon of Minced Garlic (Add more if you want)
Directions: Mix all the ingredients in a pan and cook over a medium heat until it boils, stirring frequently so that all the sugar (or honey) dissolves. That’s it! You can use this sauce as a marinade or dipping sauce, and it can be used with any protein, vegetables, or whatever else you enjoy.
Suggestions:
- You can easily alter the amount of the ingredients to make a smaller or larger portion, as long as you maintain the proportions (7/7/7/1). For example, for a larger batch, you could substitute cups for the ounce and then bottle the excess teriyaki sauce, and give them to friends and family. I often do this when I make a large batch. For a smaller batch, you could use tablespoons instead of ounces.
- There are many different types of Soy Sauce, and each can add a different element to the recipe. For example, I usually use an Aged Soy Sauce, which adds more intensity, depth of flavor and umami to the sauce. I've also previously added a Smoky Soy Sauce, to add a smoky element.
- You can use a higher quality Sake, which also will enhance the taste of the sauce. I tend to prefer using a Kimoto or Yamahai style Sake, which adds more umami to the sauce.
- Rather than sugar, you could use honey, just note you need less honey than sugar, such as 3/4 ounce instead of a full ounce.
- For more variation, you could add other ingredients, such as ginger and mushrooms, to make your own special version. Be creative!
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