2018 Domaine Pichot Clos St. Mathurin Sparkling Vouvray: Loire Bubbly & Mussels

This past Friday night, I enjoyed a dinner of mussels at home, having purchased them earlier that day at the Ipswich Shellfish Fish Market in Ipswich. They were organic PEI Mussels, which were rope grown, for only $7.49 for a bag. I love mussels, steamed in a flavorful broth, and accompanied by a crusty bread for sopping up the broth. 

Wild mussels have been consumed for thousands of years and farmed mussels extend back at least to the 12th century, when they were cultivated in the waters off the coast of France. The Pilgrims probably feasted on mussels during the first Thanksgiving. Farmed mussels are one of the most sustainable forms of aquaculture. They are easy and quick to grow, better than probably any other bivalve. They are also filter feeders, which eat algae, plankton and other microscopic sea creatures, and help to purify the water. They make the oceans cleaner which is a great benefit. 

Mussels are also a healthy choice, one of the best seafoods you can consume. They are a good source of protein, with the added benefit of being low in calories and saturated fats. In some respects, that makes it a better choice than beef. In addition, mussels are a good source of selenium, vitamin B12, zinc and folate. Most importantly, mussels also possess a significant amount of Omega-3 fatty acids, which is important in reducing the risk of heart disease. A 3 ounce portion of mussels contains about 700 milligrams of Omega-3s, placing it high on the list of seafood with significant amounts of Omega-3 fatty acids. Plus, mussels have a far less risk of mercury and PCBs. In many ways, mussels are an excellent nutritious choice and should be a regular visitor to your dinner plate.

To accompany the mussels, I selected a bottle of bubbly from the Loire region of France, the 2018 Domaine Pichot Clos St. Mathurin Sparkling Vouvray (about $27), which is supposed to be an excellent pairing for seafood, from oysters to crab. I received this bottle as a media sample. 

Although the Domaine Pichot winery was established in 1996, the history of the Pichot family extends back to at least 1739, when they were restaurateurs. They purchased their first vineyards around 1770, so they could supply their restaurant with wine. When Domaine Pichot was founded, the family brought together three family vineyards: Coteau de la Biche, Le Peu de la Moriette, and Le Marigny. The vines are generally about 30 years old, and are planted with only Chenin Blanc. Their vineyards are organic and certified sustainable. 

The Clos St. Mathurin Sparkling Vouvray is produced from grapes, about 35 years old, from a small, 1.5 hectare vineyard within the Le Marigny site. The soil in this vineyard is limestone and flint. The sparkling wine is made in the méthode traditionnelle (like Champagne), with fermentation in 70% in stainless steel and 30% in 400 liter used barrels, followed by two years on fine lees in the bottle. No dosage is used. Only 6,000 bottles are produced each year.

On the nose, the wine was expressive, with notes of white flowers and stone fruit, and in the glass, there were plenty of tiny bubbles. On the palate, it was elegant and crisp, fresh and flavorful, dry and pleasing. It possessed a complex melange of flavors, including peach and green apple, a subtle nuttiness, a touch of toast, and hints of baking spice. The finish was persistent and satisfying, and each sip beckoned you to take another. It paired very well with the mussels, and I could easily see it pairing well with other seafood too. This bubbly over-delivers for its price point, and I heartily recommend it. 

A Tavola: A Birthday Celebration

This past weekend I celebrated my birthday, and enjoyed some special meals and wines, both at home and at a restaurant. It's a tradition that I can select any restaurant I want to celebrate and this year I chose A Tavola, in Winchester, which is one of my Top Five Favorite Restaurants. Chef Joe Carli prepares excellent Italian cuisine, especially his pasta dishes, with many local ingredients. His wine list is all Italian, and presents a diverse range of choices, at all price points. 

My birthday dinner was as delicious as usual, and a strong standout was the local Striped Bass, probably one of the best seafood dishes I've enjoyed this year. A Tavola continues to receive my highest recommendation. If you want to dine outside, they have a nice patio, or if you dine inside, you could make a reservation for the Chef's Counter, and watch Chef Joe work his culinary magic in the kitchen. 

While perusing the wine list, I sought a light-style red wine and the 2023 Fuedo di Santa Tresa Rina Russa Frappato ($50) caught my eye. I love Sicilian Frappato wines and I knew it would be the light-style I desired. It's an organic wine, with bright red fruit flavors, enhanced by subtle spice notes, with good acidity. Food friendly and tasty. 

There were two appetizer specials and we opted for both of them. The Grilled Peaches ($18) were presented with Speck and Whipped Ricotta, and topped by a drizzle of hot honey. A delightful blend of flavors and textures, from the lightly charred peaches to the salty speck, from the creamy ricotta to the slightly spicy and sweet honey. A fine summer dish. 

The Striper Crudo ($18), served with crisp wonton chips, was another fine summer dish. The hearty amount of chunks of local striped bass were firm and fresh, with plenty of acidity, and were seasoned just right. The wonton chips were an excellent vehicle for the crudo.  

The standout of the dinner was the local Striped Bass ($39), and as I mentioned earlier, it's probably one of the best seafood dishes I've enjoyed this year. It was served with local, fresh corn, tomatoes, and potatoes. The fish was cooked perfectly, with a nice exterior sear, adding a fine crunch, and the interior was silky and moist, flavorful and a pure delight. The corn, tomatoes and potatoes added to the dish, including some sweetness and acidity, and the dish was a true taste of the summer. Highly recommended!

The Bucatini ($34), with foraged mushrooms, roasted garlic, white miso, and creamy burrata​, is one of my favorite dishes on their regular menu. The pasta is made in-house, and has an excellent firm texture. The mushrooms and miso add some earthiness and plenty of umami, while the garlic adds a nice flavor. The creamy burrata adds a creamy texture to the dish, helping to balance the earthiness. A week balanced and delicious dish.

After dinner, I opted for a Black Manhattan ($17), one of their barrel aged cocktails, which is made with Bourbon and Cynar (an Italian Amaro). The bitterness of the Cynar helps to balance the sweetness of the Bourbon. A Tavola also offers other barrel aged cocktails, including Negroni, Tequila Manhattan, and Boulevardier. 

And for dessert, I chose the Strawberry Shortcake ($14), with white cake and whipped cream. A tasty way to end the meal, with sweet strawberries, a light cake and creamy whipped cream. 

I left the restaurant, fully sated, and pleased that Chef Joe's cuisine remains consistently excellent. 

Krasi: Celebrating the Cyclades

Last Friday, on May 1, I dined at Krasi, one of my Top Five Favorite Restaurants, and celebrated my mom's birthday. As usual, it was a superb experience, with the food, wine and service all being top-notch. It's consistently excellent, offering innovative Greek cuisine, compelling Greek wines, and true hospitality.  

May 1 was also the start of the month, so Krasi is now showcasing a new region of Greece, and this time they are highlighting the Cyclades, a group of islands in the Aegean Sea, southeast of mainland Greece. The group includes over 200 islands, but about 30 are considered main islands, such as Santorini, Mykonos, Naxos and Paros. So, for the month of May, Krasi will present four special dishes inspired by the Cyclades and showcase their wines at their weekly Symposium Wednesdays. I tasted three of the four Cyclades dishes and wanted to share my thoughts on these delicious choices. 

The wines of the Cyclades are said to ".... taste like the sea (in the best way)" and were "... shaped by wind, sun and sea. Assyrtiko at the front, with Aidani and Mandilaria not far behind." For the next four Wednesdays, the Symposiums, led by Wine Director Jeremiah Cates, will feature these wines, and the themes of the next four weeks will include: Taste of the Region, Santorini Showdown, Low-Key Legends, and Sommelier Picks. Check out the Symposiums and let the passionate and knowledge Jeremiah educate you about these wines from the Cyclades. 

I'll also briefly note that May 1 was the opening of their Patio seating, and plenty of people took advantage of the opening to dine al fresco. 

We began our dinner with glasses of the 2024 Kir-Yianni ‘Akakies’ Rosé of Xinomavro, a celebratory bubbly, which my mom loved. The bubbly possessed bright red fruit flavors, with a touch of sweetness which is well balanced by its acidity. It's a fun wine, which should appeal to many people.

During the dinner, on the recommendation of Jeremiah, we ordered a bottle of the 2024 Sarris Lygia Orange Wine, and it was a great choice. I'll note that the Sarris Winery also produces "V for Vostilidi," one of my favorite Greek white wines

The wine was produced from Tsaoussi grapes, made on the island of Cephalonia, which is thought to be the main home of the grape. Most often this grape is used in blends. This wine was fermented with wild yeast and macerated on the skins for about two weeks. The wine was complex and interesting, with a delicious melange of flavors, from baking spices to apricot, black tea and orange peel, with restrained tannins, good acidity, and a lengthy finish. Highly recommended! It also paired well with a variety of our dishes.  

We began our meal with Tiropita Rolls, Greek cheese bread with halloumi & graviera, served with homemade Greek honey butter and a couple olives. I love these rolls, which have plenty of cheese within them, and the butter is sweet and creamy. 

We next selected one of the Charcuterie, the Akrokolion, slices of lamb, with garlic & black pepper.  The charcuterie are served with carob bread, toursi (pickled veggies), caperberries and an olive tapenade. Their charcuterie is always a good choice, and this lamb is a winner. 

We then selected one of the four Cyclades dishes, the Kopanisti, a spicy Mykonian cheese, feta, serrano peppers, and crispy lemon potatoes. The potatoes were superb, such a crispy and tasty exterior with a tender, soft potato within. I could have eaten a large plate of just those potatoes! The Kopanisti dip was creamy and flavorful, with a mild spicy element, and well complimented the potatoes. I strongly recommend this special new dish.

The second Cyclades special we ordered was the Tomatokeftedes, crispy tomato fritters, with dill, mint, marinated tomatoes, and mint yogurt. The fritters had a nice crunchy exterior, and were filled with a well seasoned blend. They make an excellent dish for the Spring.   

We also ordered the Giouvetsi, as we wanted another dish with lamb. The dish consists of braised lamb shoulder, orzo, cinnamon, grated mizithra, and tomato sauce. Another compelling dish, with very tender lamb, plenty of orzo, and a delicious tomato-based sauce, accented by the mizithra cheese. A hearty and delicious dish, this definitely elated my belly. Also highly recommended!

We finished our savory dishes with another of the Cyclades specials, the Savoro, sea bream, smashed spring potatoes, horta, golden raisins, and rosemary-vinegar. A tasty and tender white fish, with a delightful crispy skin, enhanced by the touch of the acidic vinegar with notes of rosemary, with sweetness from the golden raisins.

So, all three Cyclades special dishes we tasted were excellent, and great choices if you dine at Krasi this month. We didn't try the fourth dish, the Xtapodi, a grilled octopus dish, but I'm sure it's quite good as well. 

Check out Krasi this month, and experience the delights of the Cyclades, as well as the rest of their delicious menu offerings. 

Rant: No Respect For The Most Ignored Wine

It's a wine with a fascinating history that extends back thousands of years. It's currently produced in France, Italy, Spain, Australia, Germany, the U.S. and many more countries. It's seeing a renaissance recently, with an explosion of producers in the past years, creating some unique and fascinating products. It can be delicious and complex, intriguing and diverse, and offers a template upon which a producer can put their individual stamp, reflecting their terroir.

However, if you search for this wine on most wine blogs, you'll rarely find any reviews. Unfortunately, it's a wine that gets far more attention from cocktail lovers than it does wine lovers. Many people probably do not even realize that it actually is a wine. They might see it more as a liqueur or spirit. This needs to change. This wine needs better recognition for its own merits, rather than simply as a cocktail addition. It's time this wine stops being ignored by so many wine lovers. 

The wine in question is Vermouth, a fortified and aromatized wine.  Why do so wine lovers refuse to see its merits?

Is it because it's a "flavored" wine? Though craft beer lovers often embrace flavored beers, many wine lovers show disdain for flavored wines. They seem to think wines should remain relatively pure, with flavor from grapes and oak, but nothing else, despite the fact wines have been flavored for thousands of years. Sure, there are flavored wines which aren't done well, and taste artificial and unpleasant. However, a carefully crafted Vermouth can express an amazing melange of harmonious flavors.

Is it because it's seen more as a cocktail ingredient than a beverage of its own? Yes, it often is used in modern cocktails, and you are unlikely to find it on most restaurant wine lists. However, back in the later half of the 19th century, when Vermouth first started appearing in cocktail recipe books, one of the most popular was the Vermouth Cocktail, which only contained Vermouth, a piece of ice and a lemon peel. The flavor of the Vermouth, basically on its own, was paramount. In Europe, it's still common to drink Vermouth on its own. It is in the U.S. where people have been slow to embrace this wine on its own.

Is it due to a lack of understanding about Vermouth? Do you realize it is a wine? Do you realize the diversity of Vermouth? It's no longer as simple as dividing Vermouth into sweet and dry. Were you aware of the various U.S. producers of Vermouth, from California to New York? When is the last time you enjoyed Vermouth on its own, and not in a Manhattan or Martini?

For many years, I've experienced the delights of Vermouth and hope others will widen their vinous horizons and experience it as well. Treat it like a wine and not just a cocktail ingredient. Don't just place it in a pantry or cabinet when you want to make a Manhattan cocktail. Store it like you would store any other wine. 

Vermouth is definitely worthy of much more attention than it receives from wine lovers. People need to learn more about it, and taste the various examples that are available. Wine bloggers need to write more about it, to share knowledge of Vermouth with their readers. The U.S. needs to take a more European approach, and learn to appreciate Vermouth on its own, and not just as a cocktail ingredients.

What are your thoughts on Vermouth?

2018 Voskevaz Karasi Collection Areni Noir: Complex, Silky & Delicious

Armenia is one of the contenders as the location of the potential origin of winemaking, with evidence dating back about 8000 years. Like the country of Georgia, another primary contender in this regard, they also have an ancient tradition, extending back thousands of years, of the use of terracotta amphorae, which they call karasi, to ferment and age their wines. 

Unfortunately, during much of the 20th century, the Soviet Union forced the country to produce mainly cheap Sherry-style wines. Once Armenia attained independence, in 1991, its winemaking industry began to change and modernize, to reclaim the glories of the past. Their wines are now starting to get international attention, and locally, they have started to appear on a few wine store shelves, including at Victoria Hill Wine, the shop where I work.

Armenia is a landlocked country, mostly mountainous, which is bordered by Georgia to the north, Azerbaijan to the east, Iran to the south, and Turkey to the west. Though there are about 17,000 hectares of vineyards, most of the grapes are used for their famed brandy production. Wine production is still exploring the potential of their indigenous grapes. 

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The Voskevaz Winery was founded in 1932, but in 1997 it was purchased by David Hovhannisyan, who, with assistance from his brothers, invested much into modernizing the winery.  The name of the winery translates as "golden bunch," referring to grape bunches. The winery is located in the Aragatsotn region of western Armenia. Voskevaz works with local growers to source grapes for some of their wines. Their wines include the Karasi Collection, referring to wines which are fermented in Karas, their traditional clay amphorae, and then matured in oak. In the hills of the Aragatsotn region, ancient karasi have been found through excavation, extending back thousands of years. 

  

With a dinner of Bison Ribeye steaks, I opened a bottle of the 2018 Voskevaz Karasi Collection Areni Noir (about $50). Areni Noir is an ancient, thick-skinned red grape variety, native to Armenia, and cultivated for over 6,000 years, especially in the Vayots Dzor region. It may have originated in the village of the same name, Areni, in that region. Within Armenia, it's used to make a variety of still red wines, rosé and even brandy. Considering the relative isolation of this grape, and its lengthy history, this is a grape that reflects Armenia, which provides a true sense of place. 

The vines of Areni Noir used for this wine are about 130 years old and located at an elevation of about 1600 meters. They are sustainably farmed and the soil is volcanic rock. The grapes are fermented in karasi, the clay amphorae, and then aged for about 15 months in 225 liter oak barrels of local origin. It's then bottled unfiltered, so might have a little sedimentation. Only 300 cases of this were are produced each year, so availability is limited. 

With an ABV of 12.5%, this wine has an appealing aroma of red fruits and touches of earthiness and spice. On the palate, it was silky and complex, elegant and delicious. A fine melange of red fruits, from strawberry to cherry, accented with subtle spices, earthy notes, and peppery touches. A lengthy and satisfying finish completed this well balanced wine. It paired excellently with the bison steaks, and reminded me in some respects of Pinot Noir, which is a common comparison for Areni Noir.

You should definitely explore the wines of Armenia, as well as wines made from the Areni Noir grape. And specifically, I'd highly recommend the 2018 Voskevaz Karasi Collection Areni Noir. 

Shabo Telti-Kuruk: A Taste of Ukraine

Have you ever tasted a wine from Ukraine? Ukraine has a lengthy history of winemaking, extending back nearly 3000 years. At one point, Ukraine was the largest wine producer in the U.S.S.R., but Soviet changes destroyed many of their vineyards, forcing them to produce high-volume, high-alcohol wines. And with the current war in Ukraine, wine production is difficult, although some wineries are still trying to produce quality wines. 

Only a small amount of wines from Ukraine are currently exported to the U.S., and one of the newest importers is Spyrt Worldwide, which was established by three military veterans a few years ago. One of their major imports are the wines of Shabo Winery, and Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet, in Melrose, now carries two Shabo wines. 

The Shabo Winery was founded in 2003 by Vaja Iukuridze and his family, and is located in the village of Shabo, which the region has a 2000 year old history. Back in 1822, Swiss colonists established vineyards and winemaking in this region. When Vaja got involved, the area only possessed a run-down factory, so he had to build a new facility and plant more vineyards. In over 20 years, Shabo has become one of the largest wineries in Ukraine, owning about 1200 hectares of vineyards, growing over 20 different grapes, and producing about 15 million bottles annually. 

One of the grapes they grow is a native variety, a white grape called Telti-Kuruk, who name roughly translates as "fox tail," possibly due to the look of its grape bunches. The first mentions of this group extend back at least to the 16th century. This grape grows primarily in the Shabo region, with some vines over 50 years old, and total plantings equal about 70 hectares. The Shabo winery grows over half that amount, about 43 hectares. The grape can be used to make white wines, sparkling wines, dessert wines and can even be eaten as a table grape. 

The 2023 Shabo Telti-Kuruk Reserve ($27.99), with a 11.5% ABV, presents a compelling case for this native Ukrainian grape. However, information on its production is elusive. It's a light wine, with an alluring aroma of stone fruit, floral notes and a touch of ginger. On the palate, it possesses a complex melange of flavors, from peach to lemon, herbal notes to a subtle nuttiness. There's also a hint of brininess, with a mild floral element. Elegant and balanced, with lively acidity and a lengthy, pleasing finish. Absolutely delicious!

This wine would pair well with seafood, light chicken dishes, cheese, and more. I've never tasted this grape before, but this wine impressed me, and I see much potential with this native grape. It receives my hearty recommendation, and you really should taste it. 

And please check out my recent Rant, Wine Activism & Ukraine, which gives you more reasons to experience Ukraine wine.

R.A.S. Wines Bluish Cider: A Tasty Blend of Apples & Blueberries From Maine

Are you a fan of Cider? Cider is commonly produced from apples (and sometimes other fruits), and it can be sweet or dry, still or sparkling. It has a lengthy history in New England, and was extremely popular during the Colonial period. The popularity of cider decreased over the years so that by Prohibition, cider production was already very low. However, in recent decades, the popularity of cider has boomed, and artisan producers have been creating some intriguing and delicious ciders.   

Located in Portland, Maine, R.A.S. Wines produces a variety of wines, most made from locally-grown wild blueberries and sometimes other fruits as well. R.A.S. are the initials of the surnames of the winemakers involved in this endeavor: Dan Roche, Joe Appel and Emily Smith. Their website states: "We are committed to Maine people, land, and fruit, and that’s what produces all our wines." It also states, "Each wine we make shares a common spirit: forthright, pure, complex, balanced, and authentically reflective of the place it comes from."

Their first wine was released in 2021, and they currently have about six products, including Still Blue (a still blueberry wine), Wild (a bubbly blueberry wine in a can), Source Decay (a sparkling blueberry wine), Arkadia (a sparkling blueberry wine), Bluish, and A7 Americano (an aromatized blueberry wine). Their website also notes: "All of our blueberry wines are made from a field blend of several wild, low-bush varieties, yielding complex flavors that express the unique character of Maine."

The Bluish ($22.99) is a wild apple and blueberry cider, produced from sustainably grown fruit. The Golden Russet apples come from The Apple Farm in Fairfield, Maine while the blueberries are from    the Passamaquoddy Wild Blueberry Company (PWBC) in Columbia Falls, Maine. The PWBC, which has been in operation for over 40 years, is owned, managed, and staffed by members of the Passamaquoddy Tribe.   

The blueberries were harvested and pressed in August 2024 while the apples were harvested and pressed in November 2024. The fruits were co-fermented naturally and then aged in used oak barrels for eight months before being blended and bottled in June 2025. Secondary fermentation occurred in the bottle, providing a light effervescence. Only 140 cases of this cider were made, a limited product, in 750ml bottles topped by a crown cap. 

With only a 5.5% ABV, this cider has a golden color with red highlights, almost like a Rosé. On the nose, the alluring aroma of blueberries is most prominent, but there are subtle apple notes too. When you taste this wine, you'll find that it's dry and delicious, with bright blueberry flavors accented by a backbone of crisp apple flavors. It's elegant and nicely balanced, with a mild effervescence, almost like some Vinho Verde. There's light tannins in the cider, and the oak influence is very mild and nicely integrated into the cider. 

I'm impressed with this cider, and it paired very well with a pork tenderloin. It's food friendly, and I can see it working with any type of pork, a duck breast, or even some seafood. I've enjoyed a couple bottles of the Bluish, and those I shared it with really enjoyed it as well.  

This cider is currently available at Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet in Melrose.

Top Twelve Favorite Wines of 2025

As 2026 approaches, it's time once again to reflect upon the past year, to remember and savor pleasant memories. Previously, I posted three of my food-related Favorites lists and it's now time to cover my Top Twelve Wines of 2025. 

This list includes wines that not only I enjoyed, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out, for some particular reason, above the other wines that I've tasted this past year. This list also includes only wines I reviewed on my blog, although I tasted some excellent wines that I didn't write about.

As I've mentioned before, I currently work at Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet, in Melrose, and I preside over their Wine Tastings on Thursdays (from 5-7pm) and Saturdays (from 1-4pm). During the past year, I've poured plenty of excellent and diverse wines, a number which are worthy of being on this list, although I haven't written about them on my blog this year. So, you can always stop by the shop and ask me for some of my top wine recommendations from those tastings. In 2026, I'll try to keep a list of my best recommendations from these tastings, noting them on my blog, to make it easier to find such wines.  

The following is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It's primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I strongly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers would also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local region, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.

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1) 2022 Bocale Trebbiano Spoletino ($20-$25)

I enjoyed this wine at a wine dinner at A Tavola in Winchester. It's a white wine made from 100% Trebbiano Spoletino, which is a different type of Trebbiano, grown in Umbria, than many have experienced before. The winery was established in 2002, and their vineyards are sustainably farmed. The wine matured on the lees for several months, and saw only stainless steel. It was a fascinating wine, with complex and intriguing flavors, including citrus and stone fruit, with a strong herbal streak and hints of saline. A very unique tasting wine and its flavors seem to evolve over time in the glass.  

2) 2019 Torrevento Castel del Monte Bolonero ($15)

I also enjoyed this wine at the same wine dinner at A Tavola as above. The winery, whose history extends back about 100 years, practices sustainable farming practices. This wine is a blend of 80% Nero di Troia and 20% Aglianico, which aged for about 8 months in stainless steel. Nero di Troia is a lesser known grape from Puglia, whose origins may extend back to the ancient Greeks. However, it's said to produce quite delicious wines and is said to be deserving of much more attention. The wine was silky smooth, with a complex melange of flavors, including ripe plum and black cherries, accented by spice notes and savory herbs. Restrained tannins, excellent acidity, and a lingering, satisfying finish. Pure deliciousness and a great value.

3) 2022 Pere Mata Cupada Rosé Cava Reserva Brut Nature ($20-$25)

Produced more in a style like a Grower Champagne, this Cava Rosé is composed of a blend of 30% Macabeo, 25%, Parellada, 20% Xarello, and 25% Monastrell. The wine was fermented and aged in stainless steel for about 24-30 months. It was disgorged without any dosage and possesses a 12% ABV. It's a pale pink in color with an enticing aroma of red fruits, which makes you desire a taste. On the palate, it's crisp and dry, with clean tastes of red fruit, especially strawberry, with hints of citrus and rose petals. Plenty of tiny bubbles, a lengthy, pleasing finish, and overall, an air of elegance and deliciousness. For the quality and taste of this Cava, it's very reasonably priced, and can be enjoyed on its own, although it would pair well with a variety of foods as well. Seafood, chicken, pasta, and more. 

4) 4 Kilos Vinicola Motor America ($25)

Produced on the Spanish island of Mallorca, this wine is made from 100% Callet, a grape indigenous to Mallorca. Their Callet comes from organic vineyards, which are over 50 years old, and which grow in Cal Vermell soils, which are reddish, iron-rich and porous. The grapes are foot trodden, a rare practice nowadays, and fermented with native yeast. It's then aged in clay amphora and stainless steel for about five months. The resulting wine is also bottled unfined, unfiltered, and without any added sulfur dioxide and at an 11% ABV. With a fruity aroma, this wine is light bodied with delicious red fruit flavors, especially raspberry, with hints of black olive and herbs. It's smooth and easy drinking, with a satisfying finish and a rather unique taste. This is the type of wine which could also be slightly chilled if that's your preference. It's excellent on its own, but would pair well with foods suck as roast chicken or duck, or a roast pork loin. 

5 & 6) Alileo Wines: Sicilian, Organic Boxed Wines ($19.99/1.5 liter)
Boxed wine on this list? Why not? These two boxed wines are made in Sicily, use organic grapes, and wine production uses spontaneous fermentation. The wine is also boxed unfiltered. Alileo offers four different varietals. The Alileo Wines Young Bianco is produced from young Grillo grapes. With a bright yellow color, and a 12.5% ABV, the wine had a pleasing nose of citrus and floral notes, both which come out on the palate as well. It is fresh and clean, with good acidity, savory and herbal notes, and a pleasant finish. An excellent summer wine. The Alileo Wines Rosato Bronzato is produced from 100% Syrah and has a 12% ABV. "Bronzato" means "tanned by the sun," but it's also a slang term for "someone who partakes in some sporty imbibing." With a dark pink color, and a fruity aroma, the wine is fresh and crisp, with a medium-body and tasty, bright flavors of red fruit, especially cherry, and a savory element. Excellent on its own, and perfect for the summer, but it's very food friendly as well.

7) 2015 Valdespino La Especial Manzanilla En Rama (about $30)

This is a rarity, a Vintage Sherry (Jerez de Añada) which is also En Rama. With a 16% ABV, it possessed an alluring nose, with a touch of the sea, almonds, subtle citrus notes, and hints of herbs. On the palate, it was complex and compelling, delicious and intriguing. It was bone-dry, with plenty of acidity, a prominent briny character, and notes of apple and lemon. There were also hints of almonds, olives and herbs. It possessed a lengthy and satisfying finish. This Manzanilla would pair well with fried foods and seafood, especially oysters. An impressive wine, its complexity and taste would appeal to many wine lovers.  

8) Bodegas Yuste Conde de Aldama Palo Cortado Sherry ($120+)
This is another rarity, a Palo Cortado Sherry which possesses an average age of at least 130-150 years!  I have to begin noting that words are truly inadequate to depict the totality of drinking this extremely old Palo Cortado. However, I will try to encapsulate some of its wonders. First, it possessed a fine, dark amber color. Second, the nose possessed a complex and intense melange of harmonious aromas that seduced and tantalized me. I could identify some of the notes, but others were more elusive, exotic hints of rare aromas. Third, my palate was overwhelmed with pleasure, such an incredible taste. Complexity and harmony, pure elegance and balance. There was even a measure of freshness to this sherry, which is amazing considering its great age. It also possessed a diverse melange of flavors, both familiar and not, including briny notes, almonds, caramel, dried figs, subtle citrus, and much more. An extremely long and pleasing finish. I never wanted to stop drinking this Sherry and it possessed everything I might desire in such a wine. Perfection in a bottle. 

9) 2024 Varvaglione 1921 Susumaniello Rosé ($19)
From the Puglia region of Italy, this Rosé is which is produced from 100% Susumaniello, a rare grape of ancient lineage, and has a 13% ABV. The wine is aged in stainless steel, with periodic suspension of the lees. With a vibrant pink color, the nose is alluring with plenty of red fruit aromas and hints of spice. On the palate, it is crisp and dry, with bright red fruit flavors of strawberry, raspberry and cherry, along with subtle spice notes. On the lengthy finish, there's hints of minerality, and it's simply delicious. This would be excellent on its own, although it would also be an excellent food wine. Overall, this was an impressive Rosé, perfect for the summer, but which would be great year round.  

10) 2020 Zuccardi Poligonos Paraje Altamira Malbec ($30-$35)
A Malbec with a sense of place, from grapes in mountain vineyards, and aged in concrete. Produced from 100% Malbec, this wine was fermented with native yeasts in concrete vessels. It was then aged in concrete, and possessed a 14% ABV. It was fresh and bright, with a rich purple color, and a nose of black fruits and hints of herbs. On the palate, the fruit dominated, with flavors of ripe plum, black cherry and blueberry, but is supported by mineral notes (a stony element) and a subtle herbal accent. It was medium-bodied, with restrained tannins and good acidity. The finish was long and satisfying, and this was an excellent wine with a hearty meal. A complex and intriguing wine, the lack of oak helps you better understand the terroir, how the Malbec of his particular region differs from Malbec from other areas. Those who already enjoy Malbec will be thrilled by this wine, and others, who may not know much about Malbec, will also be thrilled by its taste.  

11) 2022 Olivier Roten Dôle Coteaux de Sierre ($25)
Produced in Switzerland, this wine is a type called Dôle, a traditional blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay. The Olivier Roten winery is seeking Organic certification and is otherwise sustainable. This wine is a blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Gamay, with a 13% ABV. The wine was fermented in stainless steel and then aged for at least 6 months in concrete tanks. It has a light red color, translucent, and an appealing nose of strawberry, black cherry and a touch of earthiness. On the palate, it's a light bodied and elegant wine, with fresh flavors of red fruits, such as raspberry and strawberry, a touch of earthiness, and hints of minerality. It possesses good acidity, mild tannins, and a lengthy, satisfying finish. Would be a nice pairing with salmon to roast chicken, pizza to burgers. An easy-drinking wine, but not a simple one. 

12) 2024 Tetramythos Agrippiotis Orange Nature
This fascinating Greek wine is certified organic, has a 11.5% ABV, and is made from a rare Greek white grape, Agrippiotis (also known as Curisti). It grows in the Peloponnese peninsula and the Ionian Islands, and is known for its high acidity, low yields, and the ability to grow well even in challenging environments. This wine underwent skin contact maceration for about 20 days, and was fermented with indigenous yeasts. It was bottled unfiltered, unfined and with the addition of minimal sulfites before bottling. The wine has a fine golden hue, slightly cloudy, with an alluring and complex nose of citrus, dried fruit, and floral elements. The promise of the nose is fully realized on the palate, which is elegant and complex, with bright acidity and an intriguing taste. The fascinating and complex flavors include citrus, dried fruits, baked apple, subtle herbal notes, and a touch of salted nuts. Each sip brought something new and exciting to my mouth. It's a well balanced wine, with mild tannins, and a lengthy, satisfying finish. An excellent food wine. It's a compelling wine that mere words cannot adequately describe, and which must be experienced to fully understand its beauty and wonders.

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Five countries made the list this year, with Italy in first place, occupying five spots on the list. Spain is in second place with four spots, with Argentina, Switzerland and Greece  each occupying one spot on the list. As for wine types, the list is also broken down into 1 Sparkling Rosé, 2 Rosé,  2 Whites, 4 Reds, 1 Orange, and 2 Fortified Wines. 

I have other wine recommendations on my blog and you just have to search for them. If you have some of your own recommendations for excellent wines you've enjoyed in 2025, please add them to the comments.

2022 Olivier Roten Dôle Coteaux de Sierre: A Swiss "Blood of Hell" Wine

In Switzerland, wine production extends back at least to the ancient Romans. Today, the two most commonly planted grapes in Switzerland are Pinot Noir and Chasselas, which total almost 60% of their plantings. However, Switzerland currently exports only a tiny percentage of their wines, so it's difficult to find their wines at local wine shops. Some are available in Massachusetts, and they are worth seeking out. 

Including the Blood of Hell.

In Valais, a canton and AOC in Switzerland located in the southwestern part of the country, there is a municipality called Salgesch. There's a legend that a group of knights once came to Salgesch to visit the Knights of St. John. The visiting knights were given wine, the Knight of St. John had produced from their own vineyard. The visitors drank so much wine, they apparently got quite drunk, wondering what they had consumed, referring to it as a "real wine from hell." This wine then acquired the nickname of "Sang de l'enfer," meaning "blood of hell" in French. This wine was Dôle, from the Valais AOC. 

The Gamay grape was introduced in the Valais region around 1859, and a Geneva botanist, Augustin Pyramus de Candolle, gave the name “Dôle” to the Gamay grape, naming it after a French city, which was also the birthplace of Louis Pasteur. Over time, Dôle began to refer to more just Gamay, but rather a wine blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir. It also eventually became a protected appellation in Valais, with specific regulations as to the composition of the blend.

However, in 2021, the regulations about Dôle changed, so that the blend must now consist of at least 51% Pinot Noir and Gamay, although Pinot must dominate. In addition, the rest of the blend, up to 49%, can consist of other red grapes such as Cornalin, Humagne, Rouge, Syrah and others. 

I recently enjoyed a Dôle wine, with a more traditional blend of only Pinot Noir and Gamay. The 2022 Olivier Roten Dôle Coteaux de Sierre (about $25) was produced by the Caves du Paradis, which is located in the township of Sierre, along the Rhône River in the Swiss Alps. The winery was founded in 1959 by Alex Roten, and 30 years later, in 1989, his son, Raphaël Roten, took over the estate. Most recently, Olivier Roten, the son of Raphaël, took over. The winery now owns about 25 acres of vineyards, about 600-800 meters above sea level. The winery has seeking Organic certification and is otherwise sustainable.

The 2022 Olivier Roten Dôle Coteaux de Sierre is a blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Gamay, with a 13% ABV. The wine was fermented in stainless steel and then aged for at least 6 months in concrete tanks. It has a light red color, translucent, and an appealing nose of strawberry, black cherry and a touch of earthiness. On the palate, it's a light bodied and elegant wine, with fresh flavors of red fruits, such as raspberry and strawberry, a touch of earthiness, and hints of minerality. It possesses good acidity, mild tannins, and a lengthy, satisfying finish. Would be a nice pairing with salmon to roast chicken, pizza to burgers. An easy-drinking wine, but not a simple one. Highly recommended.

2020 Zuccardi Poligonos Paraje Altamira Malbec: A Delicious Mountain Wine

A Malbec with a sense of place, from grapes in mountain vineyards, and aged in concrete. And produced by a winery which is one of my favorites in Argentina. 

Bodega Zuccardi Valle De Uco extends back over 60 years in Argentina, when, in 1963, Alberto “Tito” Zuccardi planted his family's first vineyard. He was an engineer and had developed a new irrigation system, to help combat some of the desert conditions in the Mendoza region. A passion for viticulture then enveloped him, and the project grew and grew. It become a family business, and his son,  José Alberto took over in 1985. And then, in 1999, Jose's son, Sebastián, also got involved in the family business. 

Their vineyards are primarily in the mountainous region of the Uco Valley, and their Polígonos brand is considered to be "the expression of those villages of the Valley." And more specifically, Paraje Altamira is located on the plain south of the source of the Tunuyán River, at an altitude of 1050-1150 meters. It has a cool temperate climate, and its soils possess many stones and granite gravel, covered with calcareous material.

The 2020 Zuccardi Poligonos Paraje Altamira Malbec ($30-$35) is produced from 100% Malbec, and was fermented with native yeasts in concrete vessels. It was then aged in concrete (although the length of time isn't provided), and possesses a 14% ABV. The wine, which is fresh and bright, possesses a rich purple color, and a nose of black fruits and hints of herbs. On the palate, the fruit dominates, with flavors of ripe plum, black cherry and blueberry, but is supported by mineral notes (a stony element) and a subtle herbal accent. It's medium-bodied, with restrained tannins and good acidity. The finish is long and satisfying, and this is an excellent wine with a hearty meal. I drank the wine with some steak tips, and it was a delightful pairing. 

A complex and intriguing wine, the lack of oak helps you better understand the terroir, how the Malbec of his particular region differs from Malbec from other areas. Those who already enjoy Malbec will be thrilled by this wine, and others, who may not know much about Malbec, will also be thrilled by its taste. Highly recommended.   

2024 Varvaglione 1921 Susumaniello Rosé: A Puglia Prize

Apulia, also known as Puglia, is an Italian region which occupies the "heel" of the Italian "boot," bordering the Adriatic Sea on its east coast. This region is best known for its red wines, especially those made from Primitivo and Negroamaro. However, you can find other interesting red grapes there, although their total acreage may be small. One such grape, of ancient lineage, is Susumaniello. 

The name, "susumaniello," may derive from the term "somarello," which roughly translates as "small donkey." This may refer to the hardiness of the grape, as the donkey can handle a great load, or it may refer to the grape bunches, which some claim resemble an overloaded donkey. DNA analysis indicates the grape is a cross between Garganega and Uva Sogra, and there are some claims that the grape originated in the Dalmatian region of Croatia, although proof of such is largely lacking. However, as it's known Primitivo originated in Dalmatia, it wouldn't be a stretch to consider Susumaniello had a similar journey. 

During the 20th century, Susumaniello fell out of favor, as it became low yielding, and farmers preferred to work with more productive vines, like Primitivo and Negroamaro. However, in time, the low yields of Susumaniello became seen as a strength, indicative of higher quality, by a number of wineries, and the grape was saved from extinction. It's now used as a blending grape, as a single varietal, and in Rosé wines. 

Varvaglione 1921 is a family-owned winery based in Leporano, on the coast of the Ionian Sea, in Puglia. It was established just over 100 years ago, making it one of the oldest wineries in southern Italy, and is currently owned and operated by the fourth generation of the Varvaglione family. The winery focuses on the native grapes of the region, including Primitivo, Negroamaro, Malvasia Nera, Aglianico, Verdeca, Falanghina, Malvasia Bianca and Fiano. They own about 150 hectares of vineyards, and also purchase fruit from low grape growers. They are also certified sustainable. 

I recently received a media sample of the 2024 Varvaglione 1921 Susumaniello Rosé (about $19), which is produced from 100% Susumaniello and has a 13% ABV. The wine is aged in stainless steel, with periodic suspension of the lees. With a vibrant pink color, the nose is alluring with plenty of red fruit aromas and hints of spice. On the palate, it is crisp and dry, with bright red fruit flavors of strawberry, raspberry and cherry, along with subtle spice notes. On the lengthy finish, there's hints of minerality, and it's simply delicious. This would be excellent on its own, although it would also be an excellent food wine. 

Overall, this was an impressive Rosé, perfect for the summer, but which would be great year round. It would make a very good choice for Thanksgiving dinner. And at under $20, this wine is a good value as well. 

Bluefin Tuna Dinner at Tonno (Wakefield): Can't Get Any Fresher!

It's only natural that a restaurant named "Tonno," an Italian word for "Tuna," would host a special bluefin dinner, accompanied by a tuna butchery demo. 

Back in 2016, Chef/Owner Anthony Caturano (of Prezza fame) opened Tonno, an Italian Seafood restaurant, in Gloucester. And then in 2018, Chef Caturano opened a second location of Tonno, in Wakefield. The concept of Tonno is to feature "coastal Italian seafood and other treasures from land and sea. The culinary program is designed to showcase Italian seafood classics, with nightly specials that reflect the catches of the day from the local waters." From the start, I was a fan of the cuisine of the Wakefield location of Tonno, and as it was only a short distance from my home, it was convenient.  

Last week, Chef Caturano held a multi-course Bluefin Tuna Dinner at Tonno, and also conducted a butchery demo of the tuna (which is pictured above). The tuna was originally about 6 1/2 feet long, although the head had already been removed before the demo. About 80% of the tuna yields meat, which is certainly a significant proportion. As it's relatively early in the bluefin season, the fish was a bit leaner, which is good for restaurants that want to prepare tuna steaks. 

Here's a ten minute video of Chef Caturano butchering the bluefin, which was certainly fascinating as he explained the process while he worked. Plus, you knew that you would soon after receive dishes made from the tuna you just watched being prepared. 

After the tuna was almost completely butchered, you can see the end result above. However, there was still meat on the tuna, between the bones, and Chef Caturano used a spoon to remove some of it. The rest was likely removed back in the kitchen as it would have been a laborious, but worthwhile, effort to remove all of it by spoon.  

To accompany the bluefin, I opted for a Dolcetto, a lighter-style Italian red wine, and it worked well, especially with the pasta course and the grilled tuna steak. 

We began our dinner with a complimentary course, some of the tuna that had been scooped out, from between the bones, with crostini. It was silky and flavorful, a tasty way to begin.

The First Course was then Tuna Belly Crudo, with fennel, radish, cucumbers, pickled red fresno peppers, chive oil, and a blood orange vinaigrette. The Crudo slices were firmer and a bit chewier, and the citrus flavors, with a touch of heat, made a nice accompaniment.  

The Second Course was a plentiful mound of Tuna Tartare with a chive oil and crostini. Again, the small chunks were silky and flavorful, almost melting in your mouth. The crostini added a nice textural element. 

The Third Course was Rigatoni Pasta, with seared tuna, tomato, black olives, and capers. The house-made pasta was prepared al dente, and had a pleasant firmness. The sauce complemented the seared tuna pieces and there was a pleasing salty element from the olives and capers. 

The Fourth Course was a Grilled Tuna Steak with heirloom tomatoes, fennel puree, and chive oil. Again, this was a hearty portion of tuna, and it was tender and delicious, accented by the chive oil, with a nice light char. 

For Dessert, we enjoyed Strawberries with mascarpone whipped cream and a balsamic glaze, and a small biscotti. Fresh and sweet, this was a tasty summer treat, and a nice ending to the tuna dinner. 

Overall, this was an excellent dinner, with plenty of delicious bluefin tuna, which couldn't have been any fresher. The butchery demo was educational and interesting, and more people should understand more about how their food is prepared. The five-course dinner cost $165 per person (which included tip), and drinks were a la carte. Kudos to Chef Caturano for hosting such a fun and tasty event. Check out Tonno, in Wakefield or Gloucester, to enjoy their cuisine. 

Perfection In A Bottle 2: Bodegas Yuste Conde de Aldama Palo Cortado Sherry

For my recent birthday, I thoroughly enjoyed a special wine from my cellar, a wine that some might consider an antique. It's a wine that's over 100 years old and it was superb! 

This wine was the Bodegas Yuste Conde de Aldama Palo Cortado Sherry, and its fascinating history extends back to the early 18th century, when the solera system first started to be used by the Sherry industry. The bodegas of Aguilar y Cia were established in 1740 in Sanlúcar, and the solera that would eventually result in the Yuste Palo Cortado was founded sometime between 1740-1750. Just take a moment to consider the age of this Sherry when it was born, before even the U.S. acquired its independence, and maybe during King George's War. 

We then consider the family of León Aldama y Respaldiza, which came to Sanlúcar from the province of Álava, part of the Basque region. In 1823, León took possession of the bodegas of Aguilar y Cia, acquiring their old barrels of Sherry. His family became quite famed in Sanlúcar, especially for their vast vineyards and fine wines. When León died in 1863, his two nephews, Pedro Aldama Gaviña and José Gabriel Aldama Camba, became his primary heirs. Eventually, José became the first Conde de Aldama ("Count of Aldama") and seems to have taken primary control of the family's wine holdings and production.

During the 1880s, the dreaded phylloxera came to the Jerez region, destroying numerous vineyards and causing a number of bodegas to close. José lost some of his valuable vineyards and though American rootstock was used to save Spanish vines, José found fault with these new vines. He didn't care for the wine made from the new grapes and refused to add the wine to nearly all of his soleras, except for a few test cases. He basically stopped producing any further wine, and only purchased pre-phylloxera wine to add to his established soleras. Around 1888, José finally decided to seal at least some of this oldest soleras, such as those acquired from Aguilar y Cia, behind plaster, allegedly to protect their value and prevent them from being adulterated with wine from new grafted vines.

When José passed away, his nephew, Antonio Aldama Mendivil, the Marqués de Ayala, acquired the estate. Antonio took well to the Sherry business, acting as an almacenista for a number of other companies, and he also invested in other business, from mining to banking. The old soleras, hidden behind the plaster, remained untouched. Eventually, around 1921, there were significant changes and Antonio's financial situation came down crashing as he had started paying insufficient attention to his businesses, being distracted by other matters such as his philanthropy.

Due to his bankruptcy, Antonio was forced to sell off most of his businesses and investments. It then appears that in 1927, the old solera from Aguilar y Cia that had been hidden behind plaster was finally unearthed and then sold to Manuel Argueso Hortal, a wine company that no longer exists. Even under that new ownership, the solera remained essentially untouched, eventually being sold to Valdespino and then later being acquired, with a winery, by a property developer.

Bodegas Yuste was founded by Francisco "Paso" Yuste Brioso, and in 1991, he purchased the historic Bodega Santa Ana in Sanlúcar, and then in 1998, he bought the Viña La Alamedilla, 46 hectares of vineyards in the Jerez pago Carrascal. Around 2001, the property developer who acquired the old solera and winery from Valdespino sold it all to Bodegas Yuste, which took the materials to reconstruct the Bodega Los Ángeles, located in Sanlúcar. This became the home for the ancient solera begun so long ago by Aguilar y Cia.

To this point, the only wine that entered the solera was a small amount to compensate for natural evaporation. Bodegas Yuste later chose to bottle two Sherries from this solera, an Amontillado and, due to some barrel variation, a Palo Cortado. The average age of these Sherries is estimated at 130-150 years old. It could even be older than that. 

I've previously enjoyed the Bodegas Yuste Conde de Aldama Amontillado Sherry, which I called "perfection in a bottle." Would the Palo Cortado live up to the experience of the Amontillado? A Palo Cortado is a rare type of Sherry, somewhat a cross between Amontillado and Oloroso. I had high hopes for this Sherry, and it didn't let me down in the least.

I have to begin noting that words are truly inadequate to depict the totality of drinking this extremely old Palo Cortado. However, I will try to encapsulate some of its wonders. First, it possessed a fine, dark amber color. Second, the nose possessed a complex and intense melange of harmonious aromas that seduced and tantalized me. I could identify some of the notes, but others were more elusive, exotic hints of rare aromas. Third, my palate was overwhelmed with pleasure, such an incredible taste. Complexity and harmony, pure elegance and balance. There was even a measure of freshness to this sherry, which is amazing considering its great age. It also possessed a diverse melange of flavors, both familiar and not, including briny notes, almonds, caramel, dried figs, subtle citrus, and much more. An extremely long and pleasing finish. I never wanted to stop drinking this Sherry and it possessed everything I might desire in such a wine. I consumed this wine with some Italian cuisine, and it worked very well, especially with a veal dish topped by black truffles. 

I purchased this Sherry back in 2020, and only paid $120 for the 500ml bottle. I think that was an amazing value for such an old and unique wine, especially one which was pure magic to drink. Sherry is too often under-appreciated so you can sometimes find some amazing values. You would be hard pressed to find another type of wine, of a similar age, at close to this price point. However, it may now be difficult to find this wine anywhere, and I have been looking. Fortunately, I bought multiple bottles of this Palo Cortado, so I still have a few in my cellar for a future celebration. 

2015 Valdespino La Especial Manzanilla En Rama: A Wine of Joy

Manzanilla is a type of sherry unique to a single city in the sherry region, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, and even has its own Denominación de Origen, known as Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Manzanilla is sometimes known as el mas fino de los finos ("the finest of the fine") and vino de la alegria ("the wine of joy"). It's generally drier and paler than Fino sherry, with a taste often thought to be salty, reminiscent of the briny sea.

Manzanilla is extremely popular in Spain, especially during the Feria de Abril, the famed Spring Festival of Sevilla, the capital of Andalucia. During this festive week, attendees drink approximately 1.5 Million half-bottles of Manzanilla. How many other wine festivals do you know where that much wine, of a singular type, is consumed in such a short time? 

In the U.S., Sherry imports are low and Manzanilla constitutes only a tiny percentage of those imports. However, more Americans need to experience the joys of Manzanilla, from its intriguing taste to understanding how well it pairs with a wide variety of foods. I recently enjoyed a special Manzanilla which surely would excite the palate of many wine lovers. 

The 2015 Valdespino La Especial Manzanilla En Rama (about $30) is a rarity, a Vintage Sherry (Jerez de Añada) which is also En Rama. Vintage sherry is not part of the usual Solera process, and the Consejo Regulador plays a significant part, to ensure that the sherry is not manipulated, and only is from a single vintage. The botas will be stoppered and sealed to ensure this matter. 

Few bodegas ever produce vintage sherry but I've been fortunate to previously taste a couple vintage sherries, including the 1964 Gonzalez Byass Vintage Oloroso, and the 1975 Bodegas Tradición Vintage Oloroso. The 2015 Valdespino Manzanilla is the first time I've experienced a vintage Manzanilla. 

The history of the Valdespino bodega extends back to the 13th century, during a time when the Moors, Muslims from North Africa, controlled most of Southern Spain, including Jerez. On October 9, 1264, King Alphonse X, also known as El Sabio, the “Wise,” successfully conquered Jerez, seizing control back from the Moors. As a reward for their bravery and loyalty, King Alphonse awarded land and vineyards to some of his best knights, including Alonso Valdespino, the start of the Valdespino's involvement in the wine business, making it one of the oldest Sherry bodegas in the region. 

In 1999, Valdespino was purchased by the Grupo Estevez, a family-owned group that was established in 1974 and owns other bodegas as well. They have allowed Valdespino to remain true to their traditions and old winemaking methods, as well as maintaining their concern for the importance of terroir. Grupo Estévez owns about 800 hectares of vineyards, with 256 hectares in the famed Macharnudo Pago with its valued albariza soils, considered the best place to grow the Palomino grape. 

Back in 2015, Valdespino decided that the harvest was particularly excellent so they decided to keep some of the Manzanilla aside to make vintage sherry. The Palomino grapes for this Manzanilla were from an old vineyard in the Pago de Miraflores, maybe the best vineyard around Sanlúcar. Valdespino set aside 16 Manzanilla casks, which were eventually sealed by the Consejo Regulador as a Vintage Manzanilla. In October 2021, five casks were selected and combined into this bottling, and only 2800 bottle were produced. 

These were bottled, en rama, meaning there was minimal filtering, and this was intended to make the Sherry have more character and be more complex. Excessive filtering was said to strip the sherries of some flavor, to make them more uniform in taste. Some claim that en rama Sherry should be consumed within a few months of production, however others state it can age longer. I believe this Valdespino Manzanilla, which was released in 2022, proves that en rama can age well. 

The 2015 Valdespino La Especial Manzanilla En Rama, with a 16% ABV, possessed an alluring nose, with a touch of the sea, almonds, subtle citrus notes, and hints of herbs. On the palate, it was complex and compelling, delicious and intriguing. It was bone-dry, with plenty of acidity, a prominent briny character, and notes of apple and lemon. There were also hints of almonds, olives and herbs. It possessed a lengthy and satisfying finish. This Manzanilla would pair well with fried foods and seafood, especially oysters. An impressive wine, its complexity and taste would appeal to many wine lovers. And it's very reasonably priced for such a delicious rarity. You really need to expand your palate and experience Manzanilla.