Rant: Why Boston Restaurants Should Emulate Tokyo Restaurants

Should Boston restaurants specialize more? Are Boston restaurant menus too large? 

Let's begin with a couple interesting statistics and comparisons. In Boston, which has an approximate population of 674,000, there are about 4300 restaurants, which roughly works out to 1 restaurant per 156 people. In Tokyo, which has an approximate population of 14.2 Million, there are about 300,000 restaurants, which roughly works out to 1 restaurant per 47 people.

The culinary scene in Tokyo is renowned throughout the world. In Rice, Noodle, Fish: Deep Travels Through Japan's Food Culture (2015) by Matt Goulding, he wrote: "There are a dozen factors that make Japanese food so special—ingredient obsession, technical precision, thousands of years of meticulous refinement—but chief among them is one simple concept: specialization." Matt got a bit more down to earth, adding "...in Japan, the secret to success is choosing one thing and doing it really fucking well." In Super Sushi Ramen Express (2016) by Michael Booth, he commented on Tokyo restaurants. "Many of them specialize in just one style of cooking, or even just one dish. And this is the key, I think, to the unparalleled wealth of Tokyo's dining scene."

Maybe this type of specialization would benefit Boston restaurants.

How many Boston restaurants specialize in one type of food, carrying only a very limited menu? Very few. Most have far larger menus, providing numerous choices so they will appeal to a broader audience. Consider the numerous Asian restaurants which offer Chinese, Japanese, Thai, and other Asian cuisines on a single menu. Do you actually receive the best food from such spots? Probably not. Do the restaurants employ true experts in all of those cuisines? Probably not. With such a huge menu, how can you be assured of the freshness of all of the ingredients? You probably can't. The food might be good, but it rarely excels. 

Now, consider that 311 Omakase, which received Boston's only Michelin Star last year, is a more specialized restaurant, offering only an omakase experience of Japanese cuisine. And a number of the other Michelin recommended restaurants in Boston also tend to be more specialized, at least concentrating on a single type of cuisine, from Korean to Thai. 

Why do so few Boston area restaurants specialize? I think the primary reason has to do with the average restaurant goer who feels entitled that they should be able to get almost anything they want at any restaurant. Rather than enjoying what is offered on the menu, some complain about what isn't there. And that outcry has caused some restaurants to give in to their demands, expanding their menu to include items that might have been outside of their original concept. 

It's a tough position for restaurants. I'm sure some would love to specialize, to have a more limited menu but financially that can be very difficult. Yet with a more limited menu, the quality of what was offered could potentially be increased. Those chefs could excel at what they produce, creating an even better product. However, the main problem becomes trying to transform the customer base to be more accepting of such limited menus. Customers need to be convinced that higher quality food, from more specialized restaurants, needs their support and patronage. 

We must throw our support to these brave restaurants which take the risk to be more specialized. We need to convince our fellow diners that they too should support such restaurants. People have to stop thinking that a restaurant menu must cater to every customer's desires. A restaurant serving multiple different cuisines can't possibly provide top quality food for their entire voluminous menu. Customers must accept a restaurant menu's limitations, and savor what is available. 

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) Throughout July and August, all Burtons Grill & Bar  locations will feature their premium lobster rolls – served either chilled Maine-style or warm Connecticut-style – for just $29. Now in its third year, Burtons tradition of lobster rolls feature five ounces of fresh tail, claw, and knuckle meat to achieve a fine bite of sweetness, tenderness, and texture. Lobster lovers can enjoy it Maine-style, chilled with housemade aioli, or Connecticut-style, warm and buttered, both served in a buttery brioche bun alongside French fries. Reflecting Burtons’ longstanding dedication to those with food allergies and dietary restrictions, both lobster rolls also are available gluten free.

2) Celebrating the best tastes of summer, Coach Grill in Wayland will feature a summer prix fixe menu through August 1. Available nightly, diners will have their choice of a collection of appetizers, mains and dessert over three courses. For starters, there is a watermelon and feta salad with basil and honey-lime vinaigrette in addition to chilled gazpacho with crème fraîche. Entrées include a spicy tuna poke bowl with avocado, cucumber, sushi rice and sesame; marinated steak tips with whipped potatoes; and lightly breaded chicken Milanese topped with an arugula salad and shaved parmesan. For dessert, indulge in a key lime tart with raspberry coulis and vanilla Chantilly cream.

COST: Three-course prix fixe: $55 per person
RESERVE: For reservations, please visit OpenTable.

Fried Chicken Street Vendors in Boston

Imagine you're walking down a street in downtown Boston, and you see a man on the corner, a street vendor, holding a basket full of fried chicken. Would you purchase a piece? 

Over 100 years ago, that was an actual option!    

The Boston Globe, February 9, 1908, published a lengthy article about "street lunch men," who sold hot dogs, chestnuts, fried smelts, and fried chicken. These vendors did a good business because the service was very quick, much faster than dining at a restaurant, and the food was very inexpensive. So, there were plenty of street vendors, competing for the many customers. 

However, a few weeks prior to this article, the city of Boston instituted a new law where these numerous vendors had to obtain a license, and pay a $5 fee, to sell food on the streets. In addition, their sales were now being restricted to specific streets. This drastically reduced the number of street vendors, although the numbers might have increased after a time, when they realized the fee was relatively small, compared to their potential profits. 

These street vendors could make a significant profit, from 100-300%, depending on the specific night and the specific product. For example, it was estimated that it cost a hot dog vendor about 20 cents to buy 18 raw hot dogs (one pound) and rolls, but that the vendor could sell each dog for 5 cents, generating sales of 90 cents, making a profit of 70 cents. A good hot dog vendor could thus make $35-$45 a week (about $1200-$1600 in today's dollars). The roast chestnut vendors could make even more money, from $40-$90 a week! 

The article continued, "A choice delicacy of the curb lunch is fried chicken. It is the top liner, too, as to price, commanding double and in some instances, triple the rate of the more plebeian edibles of the street." Nowadays, hot dog and sausage carts are popular on the streets of Boston, but have you ever seen a fried chicken cart? Sure, there are food trucks that sell fried chicken, but what about small carts? Or even just a man carrying a basket of fried chicken? There are plenty of hot dog and sausage carts near Fenway Park, but I've never seen a fried chicken cart or basket there. 

Back around 1908, nearly all of the fried chicken vendors were black men, and they had to pay the $5 fee for a license to sell. Unlike the hot dog vendors, the fried chicken vendors generally didn't limit themselves to any particular curb spot, but kept on the move, following where the customers might be. "Garbed in a short coat and long apron of white, and carrying on one arm a capacious basket, in which is his supply of chicken, he flits about from place to place on those downtown streets of the city...."  Rather than have a stall or cart, they simply carried their chicken in a basket, allowing them to easily travel around with their food for sale.  

What were the economics of this business? The article writer spoke to one of the chicken vendors, learning the fascinating details. The vendor had started the night having first purchased 50 chickens, totaling 135 pounds, at ten cents a pound, making his total cost $13.50. Each chicken could then be cut into six pieces, making a total of 300 pieces, and once fried, each piece would sell for 10 cents. That generated total sales of $30.00, making a profit of $16.50. And it only took that vendor two hours to sell out of his chicken. A fried chicken vendor could make as much, if not more, than a roast chestnut vendor. 

Unfortunately, the article didn't describe how the fried chicken was prepared. It seems likely that the vendor fried the chicken at his home, but did he do the actual frying, or did some other member of his family, such as his wife, fry the chicken, or at least assist in its preparation? In addition, how long did it take to prepare all that chicken, such as frying 300 pieces? Plus, were the various vendors using different recipes to make their fried chicken, and thus were certain vendors considered to be superior due to their recipe? 

The photo at the top of this article is of John B. Campbell, who lived in the West End, and who was known as "the original fried chicken man of Boston." He was the first fried chicken vendor in Boston, and had been working as such in the West End for several years. "He was patronized quite largely by actors and actresses from the vaudeville houses and popular-priced theatres who stop at West End hotels during their engagements here and take a piece or two of his fried chicken with them to their rooms for lunch."

Unfortunately, I've been unable to locate any more information about John Campbell, although I suspect his story would be quite fascinating. What led him to become a fried chicken vendor? How long, after 1908, did he continue to sell fried chicken? Did he assist the other fried chicken vendors, or were they viewed as competition? Did his family get involved in the business? So many answered questions. 

Today, it probably would be impossible for any street vendor to obtain a license, especially because of hygiene restrictions, to sell fried chicken out of a basket on the streets of Boston. However, it's an intriguing piece of Boston history as well as local black history. 

Rant: Touch Your Food & Enjoy It More

I don't believe it's a coincidence that some of our favorite foods, from burgers to hot dogs, lobster rolls to tacos, pizza to French fries, are held in our hands as we eat them. With summer here, we will likely enjoy more of these such foods.  

When we pick up these foods with our hands and bite into them, this creates a greater connection between us and our food. There isn't an intermediary of metal, wood or plastic utensils which might interfere with our enjoyment of these foods. Although of course there are some people who do eat such foods with a knife and fork. This may create a disconnect between them and that food.  

This is all a psychological issue, and one which most people don't even think about except on an unconscious level. They understand the enjoyment of these foods and can describe in the detail many of the reasons for such, except they will rarely mention that part of the reason, and probably an important element, is that they can touch the food.

Eating with your hands can even lead to you licking your fingers, savoring the sauce, condiments, cheese, frosting, and other items that might accumulate on your skin. There's a greater intimacy involved in eating food with your hands, one which we appreciate though usually on a deeper level. Yes, you can enjoy food which you eat with a knife and fork, but there is something more satisfyingly primal with being able to use your hands.

What may make us think more closely about this issue is when we are confronted with a situation outside of the norm, when we are unable to eat a certain item with our hands that usually we should be able to do so. For example, if you order a warm buttered lobster roll, but the roll falls apart, making it almost impossible to eat it as a sandwich. Or if you order a burger, with lots of extra ingredients, but it's too large, too thick for you to bite, or too messy to eat with your hands. There's a real sense of disappointment with these food fails, as you actually wanted to eat them with your hands but were thwarted in doing so. 

You lose part of the essential aspect of the dish, the direct connection of flesh to food. I'm not sure all restaurants understand how certain foods should not require utensils to enjoy, that part of the allure is being able to hold them in your hands as you eat them. Do your own test at home. Try eating some foods with your hands and then try eating that same food with utensils. And I bet, if you're being honest, you will notice a difference and prefer using just your hands. 

And of course, there are plenty of foods which are not meant to be eaten with your hands. You can't eat soup with your hands. Sometimes you need a knife to cut your steak. But, if you can eat something with your hands, then do so.  

Touch your food and enjoy it more! 

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) From July 2-5, Margaritas Mexican Restaurant will be the ultimate watering hole for its namesake cocktail while honoring America. The annual Independence Weekend Fiesta will be a four-day celebration with festively crafted drinks and tropical staycation vibes.

Margaritas will kick off the fiesta with a trio of red, white and blue margarita options available for only $6 each: a signature classic Margarita, a Strawberry Margarita, and a Blue Hawaiirita. From Thursday to Sunday, Margs also will be pouring a $12 margarita flight with four mini margs (original, strawberry, Blue Hawaii and blueberry).

Also featured in July is the brand’s signature “Margarita of the Month,” the Pop Star Margarita ($10) with Hornitos Plata tequila, Watermelon Pucker, coconut puree and pineapple juice finished with a watermelon Pop Rocks rim.

2) Kane’s Donuts and Vitamin Sea Brewing have teamed up to give dads something they actually want this Father’s Day: donuts and beer (well, beer in a donut). Introducing the Vitamin Sea Summer Donut, a refreshing fruit-forward glazed yeast-style donut made with Vitamin Sea Summer IPA, available exclusively Father’s Day weekend: Saturday, June 20th, and Sunday, June 21st at all Kane’s Donuts locations.

Crafted using Vitamin Sea's iconic Summer beer, a fruity, juicy New England IPA that has notes of orange, mango, and pineapple, this limited-edition donut feels like summer in every bite. It features a soft, fluffy yeast dough dipped in a glaze made with Kane’s Signature Honey Dip that has been infused with reduced Vitamin Sea Summer IPA. 

“Father’s Day is all about celebrating the dads and father figures who make life sweeter, and we’re excited to do that in true Kane’s fashion,” said Maria Delios, Co-Owner of Kane’s Donuts. “Partnering with Vitamin Sea Brewing brings together two local favorites for a fun, limited-edition donut perfect for the holiday.”

“Partnering with Kane’s Donuts for Father’s Day was a natural fit,” said Dino Funari, Co-Founder of Vitamin Sea Brewing. “They’re a beloved local brand with an incredible following, and we loved the idea of creating something fun, seasonal, and unexpected for dads to enjoy.”

The Vitamin Sea Summer Donut will be available in limited quantities at all three Kane’s locations.

Rant: Eliminate Cuisine Stereotypes!

I don't like sushi because I hate raw fish!

We probably all know people who have made a statement like that, or something similar such as "I don't like Thai food because it's too spicy" or "I don't like Indian cuisine because I hate curry." Maybe some of you even have made such statements yourself. Yet are those statements truly accurate, or do they evidence a lack of knowledge about those cuisines? Are these people perpetuating stereotypes about these cuisines? Would these people actually enjoy aspects of these cuisines if they truly understood the cuisine and were willing to take a chance on it? 

For example, the above photo depicts three different types of sushi, specifically maki rolls. Not one of those rolls contains raw fish. In fact, only one of them even has cooked seafood, the Shrimp Tempura Maki. The other two rolls are Sweet Potato Tempura and Chicken Tempura. There are plenty of other sushi options that don't include raw fish, so you shouldn't stereotype it as only consisting of raw fish. 

Many people refer to Indian or Thai cuisine as if it were a single, monolithic cuisine. They fail to realize that most, if not all, national cuisines actually consist of numerous regional cuisines, and those can vary quite widely from each other. There is not a unified Indian or Thai cuisine. There is also not a unified Italian or Mexican cuisine. Rather, they all are a plethora of regional cuisines. Not all Indian cuisines and dishes use curry and not all Thai dishes are spicy. 

This came to my mind again for me while I was reading Soul Food: The Surprising Story of an American Cuisine One Plate at a Time (2013) by Adrian Miller. There was a passage, "Americans tend to identify immigrant cuisines more by ethnicity, nationality, and race than by place. We use the terms “Chinese food” and “Italian food” instead of “Cantonese Province food” or “Southern Italy food.”

You must open up your mind and broaden your culinary knowledge. It's an easy solution, to educate yourself so you don't stereotype any cuisine. If you dislike raw fish, go to a sushi restaurant and ask what sushi doesn't include raw fish. If you dislike curry, check out an Indian restaurant and let them explain all of the dishes that don't use curry. If you dislike spicy Thai, check out a Thai restaurant and find out all the non-spicy dishes they carry. You will probably be surprised by all the choices you actually have, despite your dislike of one element of their cuisine. You might even find some new favorite dishes.

Though you might think your stereotype only affects you, that's not always the case. You might be part of a group of family or friends trying to decide on which restaurant to go. You might nix the idea of attending a certain restaurant because of your stereotype, thus denying everyone else the chance to dine there. Is that really fair? No, I don't think so. In addition, such stereotypes can hurt those restaurants, and the restaurant industry already has plenty of obstacles. Your stereotypes can reinforce the stereotypes of others, preventing even more people from dining at certain places.

Learn about those cuisines you think you hate, and maybe you will realize they are far more diverse than you realize. 

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) Congratulations to the Union Oyster House for their 200th Anniversary! 

In 1826, before the Civil War, before the invention of the telephone, and before either the Boston Symphony Orchestra or the Boston Red Sox existed, Union Oyster House opened its doors. This August, this National Historic Landmark celebrates 200 years of continuous operation. Located on Boston’s Freedom Trail, Union Oyster House offers guests a tangible connection to American history, culture, and traditions. Since opening, only minor renovations have been made to preserve the restaurant's original design. It is internationally celebrated for its fresh seafood, timeless ambiance, and exceptional service. Signature dishes include New England classics like oysters on the halfshell, clam chowder, lobster, Boston baked beans, and cornbread.. The restaurant won North America’s Best Landmark Restaurant honors in 2020, 2024, and 2025.

Over the years, Union Oyster House has been owned by only four families: the Atwoods, Fitzgeralds, Greaveses, and, the current proprietors, the Milanos. For owner Joseph Milano, this bicentennial anniversary represents far more than a successful business. “It’s our responsibility and honor to uphold this piece of American history,” said Milano. “For 200 years, we have been creating memories and traditions for visitors across the world. Union Oyster House would not be where it is today without the love and support from our guests.” 

Some of the more famous guests to dine at Union Oyster House over the decades have included presidents and politicians, royalty and diplomats, Hollywood legends, celebrated chefs, and sports icons. Notable visitors have included Franklin D. Roosevelt, John F. Kennedy, Bill Clinton, Barack Obama, Queen Elizabeth II, Julia Child, Meryl Streep, Leonardo DiCaprio, and Steven Spielberg, among countless others who have passed through its historic doors over the last two centuries.

2) Margeaux Supper Parlor, located in Cambridge and owned by Rebekah Barr is now offering $1 oysters, along with new cocktail and wine pairings. Every Tuesday through Thursday from 5–7 p.m., guests can enjoy a special menu featuring brand-new cocktails and $1 Unicorn Oysters. Unicorn Oysters are premium, surface-cultivated Eastern oysters harvested in the cold, nutrient-rich waters of Maine's Damariscotta River. 
** Available in the dining room, at the bar, and on Margeaux's patio. **

Some Cocktail Highlights include
* Clarified Key Lime Margarita– Arette tequila, key lime, vanilla, Luxardo amaretto, coconut foam, graham cracker
* Pink Vesper– Kyro rhubarb gin, Rockey's botanical liqueur, Lillet Rose, lemon
* Bali Dragon– Absinthe, Planetary rum, coconut milk, pistachio & pandan orgeat, matcha
* Soft Launch– Tito's, Licor 43, guava, citrus, vanilla, baking spice, sparkling wine chaser

Each cocktail is inspired by the deep flavors of unicorn oysters, pairing oyster umami with a refreshing bite. Owner Rebekah Barr's vision for “Golden Hour” centers on her appreciation for a slower life. A craft cocktail, a fresh oyster, and the sunsetting over a beautiful patio- the way summer should be. Wine will be offered by the bottle and glass at a discounted price.

Rant: How Much Would You Pay For a Lobster Roll?

Summer is the time when many people in New England, from residents to tourists, will enjoy Lobster Rolls, whether a cold lobster roll (commonly called a Maine-style roll) or a warm buttered lobster roll (commonly called a Connecticut-style roll). My personal preference is for a warm buttered lobster roll and I enjoyed my first one of the summer season last Friday.   

However, how much would you pay for a Lobster Roll?

This season, Lobster Rolls are pricier than other years, especially due to a smaller lobster catch in Maine, the fourth year of continual decline. Plus, restaurant prices have been rising, due to many factors, from higher ingredient costs to higher labor costs. If you try to purchase live lobsters at your local market, you'll see how pricey they can be, commonly $10-$20 a pound. 

At many local restaurants, lobster rolls are now selling for $30-$60, usually accompanied by French fries or chips. On the menu, lobsters rolls are usually listed as "Market Price," so you should ask about the price before ordering, to prevent sticker shock later. Some consumers draw a line at how much they are willing to pay for a lobster roll, while others will pay nearly any price for such an iconic sandwich.

Last Friday, for lunch, I dined at Row 34 in Burlington, and I had an urge for a Lobster Roll. Their Warm Buttered Lobster Roll, with slaw and home-made chips was listed at Market Price, and the actual price that day was $48. Considering everything, I thought this was a reasonable price, especially as I've enjoyed their Lobster Rolls before and understood their quality. 

There was plenty of sweet, tender lobster, covered with a rich butter, and within a thicker hot-dog style bun. The bun was grilled perfectly, and its thicker bread helped keep the sandwich from falling apart. With thin buns, the bread can get too moist from the butter and fall apart, so it becomes much harder to eat it. Fortunately, I didn't have this issue at Row 34. The lobster roll sated my urges, was quite delicious, and it was everything I wanted. I felt I got my money's worth. 

I'll also mention that I love their homemade chips as well, a nice companion to the lobster roll. 

In addition, as an appetizer, I was also impressed with their Salt & Pepper Fried Shrimp, accompanied by a peanut sauce and nuoc cham. A crunchy, clean coating on plump, tender shrimp, and both sauces were very tasty. 

How much would you pay for a Lobster Roll? 

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) Tomorrow, Friday, June 5 is National Donut Day! Kane’s Donuts is celebrating this tasty holiday with a couple Freebies. On Friday,  guests who purchase a dozen donuts at any Kane’s Donuts location will receive:
• A free small hot or iced Stella Blue Coffee
• A free Kane’s Donut

How will you celebrate National Donut Day?

2) Looking for a colorful way to celebrate Boston Pride? The Tip Tap Room, headed by Chef Brian Poe, and located right at the end of the Boston Pride parade route, is toasting to the occasion with a limited-edition ‘Pride Spritz Flight’ available on parade day, Saturday, June 6. 

The vibrant flight features four rainbow-inspired spritzes made with Tip Tap’s homemade cordials, including a Raspberry Spritz, Mandarin Spritz, Honeydew & Snap Pea Spritz, and Blueberry Lavender Spritz. Even better, a portion of the proceeds from every Pride Spritz Flight sold will benefit BAGLY, supporting LGBTQ+ youth across Massachusetts.

Rant: Don't Use Your Car As An Oven!

Today is June 1 and temperatures later this week, Thursday to Saturday, are predicted to be in the 80s, a summery heat. So, once again, this seems like an excellent time to repeat a vinous warning, a caution to protect your wine from high temperatures. 

We often hear how we should stay hydrated, use sun screen, and otherwise protect ourselves from the intense sun and heat. We know we shouldn't leave children or pets in a hot car, even if the window is open a bit. A child or pet can easily die inside a hot car, within a short time period, so it's vital that this should never be done. We don't want any such tragedy to occur.

However, how often do you hear that you should protect your wine from intense heat as well?

It should be illegal, the torture of an innocent wine bottle by the application of intense heat. It's also a far too common crime during the summer season. Please stop this cruel practice and persuade others to give it up as well. Do you really want to lose that bottle of wine you recently bought? Please save the gentle wine bottle from a torturous heat death.

Summer is the time for travel, and maybe you'll visit a farmer's market, bakery, farm, wine shop, winery, brewery, or some similar place. If you make any purchases, you'll need to transport them home in your car, likely in your trunk, where they could sit there for hours, or even longer. You might not realize that your trunk can get very hot, thus subjecting your food and drink to intense heat. You need a way to protect them from such high temperatures.

When I travel, I often bring my metal wine case (pictured above), which is insulated and holds a dozen bottles of wine. Thus, I can safely transport my wines and it has been invaluable on long trips. You don't need to purchase such a case, though if you often buy wine it can be a good investment. Instead, you should carry some other type of insulated bag, box or other container, the same type you would use to transport frozen food or other perishables. You need to protect the wine from the heat, keeping it at a cooler temperature. You need to be prepared when you travel.

An insulated container has other uses too if you travel. You might find some food you wish to take home, and that too can be protected on your long drive home. How many times have you stopped at a farmer's market or food shop, and wanted to buy something but worried about it surviving the journey home? An insulated container will resolve that issue. Always be prepared this summer and ensure you keep an insulated container in your trunk.

It's an easy solution to a rampant problem. Save the wine bottle from the heat, so that you don't come home and find your wine is ruined. Cherish the insulated container.

I'll also add that you need to protect your wine at home from intense heat as well. Where do you store your wine at home? Some just place them in open racks in their kitchen or dining room. If those rooms get too hot, then your wines are endangered. It would be better to store them somewhere else, where it is cooler and dark, such as maybe in your basement. If you have a wine cooler or wine refrigerator, that is probably the best place for your wines. 

Protect your wine and food from heat, wherever it might be.