2015 Valdespino La Especial Manzanilla En Rama: A Wine of Joy

Manzanilla is a type of sherry unique to a single city in the sherry region, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, and even has its own Denominación de Origen, known as Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Manzanilla is sometimes known as el mas fino de los finos ("the finest of the fine") and vino de la alegria ("the wine of joy"). It's generally drier and paler than Fino sherry, with a taste often thought to be salty, reminiscent of the briny sea.

Manzanilla is extremely popular in Spain, especially during the Feria de Abril, the famed Spring Festival of Sevilla, the capital of Andalucia. During this festive week, attendees drink approximately 1.5 Million half-bottles of Manzanilla. How many other wine festivals do you know where that much wine, of a singular type, is consumed in such a short time? 

In the U.S., Sherry imports are low and Manzanilla constitutes only a tiny percentage of those imports. However, more Americans need to experience the joys of Manzanilla, from its intriguing taste to understanding how well it pairs with a wide variety of foods. I recently enjoyed a special Manzanilla which surely would excite the palate of many wine lovers. 

The 2015 Valdespino La Especial Manzanilla En Rama (about $30) is a rarity, a Vintage Sherry (Jerez de Añada) which is also En Rama. Vintage sherry is not part of the usual Solera process, and the Consejo Regulador plays a significant part, to ensure that the sherry is not manipulated, and only is from a single vintage. The botas will be stoppered and sealed to ensure this matter. 

Few bodegas ever produce vintage sherry but I've been fortunate to previously taste a couple vintage sherries, including the 1964 Gonzalez Byass Vintage Oloroso, and the 1975 Bodegas Tradición Vintage Oloroso. The 2015 Valdespino Manzanilla is the first time I've experienced a vintage Manzanilla. 

The history of the Valdespino bodega extends back to the 13th century, during a time when the Moors, Muslims from North Africa, controlled most of Southern Spain, including Jerez. On October 9, 1264, King Alphonse X, also known as El Sabio, the “Wise,” successfully conquered Jerez, seizing control back from the Moors. As a reward for their bravery and loyalty, King Alphonse awarded land and vineyards to some of his best knights, including Alonso Valdespino, the start of the Valdespino's involvement in the wine business, making it one of the oldest Sherry bodegas in the region. 

In 1999, Valdespino was purchased by the Grupo Estevez, a family-owned group that was established in 1974 and owns other bodegas as well. They have allowed Valdespino to remain true to their traditions and old winemaking methods, as well as maintaining their concern for the importance of terroir. Grupo Estévez owns about 800 hectares of vineyards, with 256 hectares in the famed Macharnudo Pago with its valued albariza soils, considered the best place to grow the Palomino grape. 

Back in 2015, Valdespino decided that the harvest was particularly excellent so they decided to keep some of the Manzanilla aside to make vintage sherry. The Palomino grapes for this Manzanilla were from an old vineyard in the Pago de Miraflores, maybe the best vineyard around Sanlúcar. Valdespino set aside 16 Manzanilla casks, which were eventually sealed by the Consejo Regulador as a Vintage Manzanilla. In October 2021, five casks were selected and combined into this bottling, and only 2800 bottle were produced. 

These were bottled, en rama, meaning there was minimal filtering, and this was intended to make the Sherry have more character and be more complex. Excessive filtering was said to strip the sherries of some flavor, to make them more uniform in taste. Some claim that en rama Sherry should be consumed within a few months of production, however others state it can age longer. I believe this Valdespino Manzanilla, which was released in 2022, proves that en rama can age well. 

The 2015 Valdespino La Especial Manzanilla En Rama, with a 16% ABV, possessed an alluring nose, with a touch of the sea, almonds, subtle citrus notes, and hints of herbs. On the palate, it was complex and compelling, delicious and intriguing. It was bone-dry, with plenty of acidity, a prominent briny character, and notes of apple and lemon. There were also hints of almonds, olives and herbs. It possessed a lengthy and satisfying finish. This Manzanilla would pair well with fried foods and seafood, especially oysters. An impressive wine, its complexity and taste would appeal to many wine lovers. And it's very reasonably priced for such a delicious rarity. You really need to expand your palate and experience Manzanilla.