In Switzerland, wine production extends back at least to the ancient Romans. Today, the two most commonly planted grapes in Switzerland are Pinot Noir and Chasselas, which total almost 60% of their plantings. However, Switzerland currently exports only a tiny percentage of their wines, so it's difficult to find their wines at local wine shops. Some are available in Massachusetts, and they are worth seeking out.
Including the Blood of Hell.
In Valais, a canton and AOC in Switzerland located in the southwestern part of the country, there is a municipality called Salgesch. There's a legend that a group of knights once came to Salgesch to visit the Knights of St. John. The visiting knights were given wine, the Knight of St. John had produced from their own vineyard. The visitors drank so much wine, they apparently got quite drunk, wondering what they had consumed, referring to it as a "real wine from hell." This wine then acquired the nickname of "Sang de l'enfer," meaning "blood of hell" in French. This wine was Dôle, from the Valais AOC.
The Gamay grape was introduced in the Valais region around 1859, and a Geneva botanist, Augustin Pyramus de Candolle, gave the name “Dôle” to the Gamay grape, naming it after a French city, which was also the birthplace of Louis Pasteur. Over time, Dôle began to refer to more just Gamay, but rather a wine blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir. It also eventually became a protected appellation in Valais, with specific regulations as to the composition of the blend.
However, in 2021, the regulations about Dôle changed, so that the blend must now consist of at least 51% Pinot Noir and Gamay, although Pinot must dominate. In addition, the rest of the blend, up to 49%, can consist of other red grapes such as Cornalin, Humagne, Rouge, Syrah and others.
I recently enjoyed a Dôle wine, with a more traditional blend of only Pinot Noir and Gamay. The 2022 Olivier Roten Dôle Coteaux de Sierre (about $25) was produced by the Caves du Paradis, which is located in the township of Sierre, along the Rhône River in the Swiss Alps. The winery was founded in 1959 by Alex Roten, and 30 years later, in 1989, his son, Raphaël Roten, took over the estate. Most recently, Olivier Roten, the son of Raphaël, took over. The winery now owns about 25 acres of vineyards, about 600-800 meters above sea level. The winery has seeking Organic certification and is otherwise sustainable.
The 2022 Olivier Roten Dôle Coteaux de Sierre is a blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Gamay, with a 13% ABV. The wine was fermented in stainless steel and then aged for at least 6 months in concrete tanks. It has a light red color, translucent, and an appealing nose of strawberry, black cherry and a touch of earthiness. On the palate, it's a light bodied and elegant wine, with fresh flavors of red fruits, such as raspberry and strawberry, a touch of earthiness, and hints of minerality. It possesses good acidity, mild tannins, and a lengthy, satisfying finish. Would be a nice pairing with salmon to roast chicken, pizza to burgers. An easy-drinking wine, but not a simple one. Highly recommended.
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