Fried rice, chicken fingers, egg rolls, and boneless spareribs. Would you like some bread and butter with your meal?
Over the years, matters have changed, and now few Chinese restaurants offer free bread, although plenty of other restaurants, serving other cuisines, have also stopped bread service. For many restaurants, it was an economic decision, a way to cut costs as plenty of people didn't eat the bread, and it couldn't be given to other customers.
I know plenty of people who miss the bread and butter at Chinese restaurants. Maybe it's just a nostalgic emotion. It's something we may never see again, except at the rare Chinese restaurants.
Why did Chinese restaurants start serving bread and butter? I'll first note that the Chinese characters, 黄油面包 (huáng yóu miàn bāo), basically translates as "bread with butter spread on it." Serving bread and butter is not a traditional element of Chinese cuisine, so the first Chinese restaurants in the U.S., which opened in the second half of the 19th century, didn't serve it.
Why did Chinese restaurants start serving bread and butter? I'll first note that the Chinese characters, 黄油面包 (huáng yóu miàn bāo), basically translates as "bread with butter spread on it." Serving bread and butter is not a traditional element of Chinese cuisine, so the first Chinese restaurants in the U.S., which opened in the second half of the 19th century, didn't serve it.
During the 19th century, bread and butter was extremely common and popular in the U.S.. It became expected that restaurants would offer bread and butter with their meals, often complimentary or included as part of a set lunch or dinner, and some inexpensive meals might even center on bread. So, during the later part of the 19th century, when Chinese restaurants started to become more popular with non-Chinese, the fact that those restaurants didn't offer bread and butter become a significant issue.
For example, three newspapers in 1892 discussed visits to Chinese restaurants, specifically noting the lack of bread and butter. The Fall River Globe (MA), March 4, 1892, mentioned, “No bread or butter was provided.” The Sunday News Dealer (PA), June 26, 1892, stated, “No bread, butter or side dishes.” And the Kansas City Times (MO), October 9, 1892, said, “Three things were sadly missed, bread, butter and pie.” In addition, the Oakland Enquirer (CA), February 16, 1895, discussed the 21 Chinese restaurants in New York City, alleging that “No bread or butter is served with the meal, as in our restaurants,…”
For example, three newspapers in 1892 discussed visits to Chinese restaurants, specifically noting the lack of bread and butter. The Fall River Globe (MA), March 4, 1892, mentioned, “No bread or butter was provided.” The Sunday News Dealer (PA), June 26, 1892, stated, “No bread, butter or side dishes.” And the Kansas City Times (MO), October 9, 1892, said, “Three things were sadly missed, bread, butter and pie.” In addition, the Oakland Enquirer (CA), February 16, 1895, discussed the 21 Chinese restaurants in New York City, alleging that “No bread or butter is served with the meal, as in our restaurants,…”
The lack of bread and butter was considered significant enough to mention, when nowadays, few reviews of Chinese restaurants, if any, would consider that to be an issue they needed to mention. This omission was seen as a negative element, and probably caused some Americans not to done at those Chinese restaurants. So, those Chinese restaurants eventually took notice, and started offering bread and butter, although it still wouldn't become the norm until some years later in the 20th century.
Probably the first Chinese restaurant in Boston that would serve bread and butter, and probably one of the first anywhere in the U.S., was the Oriental Restaurant, located at 32 Harrison Avenue in Chinatown, which opened in 1895. The Charlotte News (NC), August 4, 1900, printed the menu for this restaurant, noting they sold “Bread and Butter” for 5 cents. So, though it was made available to their customers, it wasn't provided for free.
The New-York Tribune (NY), February 26, 1899, then discussed a Chinese banquet at an unnamed New England Chinese restaurant, mentioning that, “out of deference to American habits, bread and butter were also served, though they were not recommended and were eaten but sparingly.”
As the 20th century began, a number of Chinese restaurants started serving bread and bread. The Marysville Democrat (CA), December 18, 1902, might have been the first Chinese restaurant to print an advertisement which specifically mentioned they offered China Noodles (mispelled in the ad), China Rice, as well as the Bread & Butter.
The Boston Journal (MA), November 1, 1903, noted an unnamed Chinese restaurant where people were eating chop suey and bread and butter.
The Washington Post (D.C.), December 13, 1903, discussed that when first the Chinese restaurant opened there, the owner was dismayed of the American custom of having bread and butter with all they ate. However, it was then noted that there were now several Chinese restaurants in the city, and they served complimentary bread, but without butter. If a customer wanted bread and butter, they had to pay 5 cents for it. It was claimed that the bread was served without butter, as the restaurants thought their customers might not thus eat it, and they could later give the bread to another customer, saving money.
The Morning News (DE), June 9, 1904, had a brief ad for a Chinese restaurant which offered, “Fried noodles, bread and butter, iced tea and rice and milk” for 35 cents. The Fitchburg Sentinel (MA), August 29, 1905, noted that the Wing Chun Low Co. restaurant served bread and butter with a meal.
Still not all Chinese restaurants served bread and butter. The Boston Globe (MA), March 30, 1913, mentioned that there were two types of Chinese restaurants, one that catered more to the Chinese and the other which was more Americanized, and also served bread and butter.
The Fitchburg Sentinel (MA), January 7, 1916, printed an ad for the Boston Chinese Restaurant Co. which mentioned bread and butter was available as part of a “Regular Dinner.”
Other ads for Chinese restaurants during this time period mentioned the availability of bread and butter with special American-style dinners, such as for Thanksgiving. As the years passed, bread and butter became far more common at many Chinese restaurants, and in the Greater Boston area, one of the primary reasons might have been the presence of a bread bakery, which was initially located across from Chinatown.
Around 1919, the Quinzani Brothers, a bread bakery, opened at 24 LaGrange Street in Boston and they concentrated on French bread and rolls. The year before, in 1918, Liberty (aka Libero) Quinzani and Ovidio Quinzani bought a French pastry shop from Pierre Pomes for $500, and turned it into a bread bakery.
A bread machine accident! The Boston Globe, June 20, 1923, reported that Noapar Abrahamian, age 27, who worked for the Quinzani Brothers, was caught in a bread mixing machine and suffered multiple injuries, although they didn't seem serious.
The Boston Globe, March 3, 1924, noted that Edward H. Eldredge sold to Liberty and Ovidio Quinzani the building and land at 24-26 LaGrange Street, for $17,000. This included 1249 square feet of land (worth $13,700 alone, and a four-story brick and stone building. Thus, the Quinzanis now owned the building where their bakery was located. During the next month, they would offer rooms on the third and fourth floors for rent or lease.
One of the only advertisements for the bakery was found in the Boston Herald, March 26, 1933. It mentioned that they supplies the Union Oyster daily with fresh rolls and bread. Plus, they mentioned they specialized in French bread and rolls.
Runaway horse and bakery wagon! The Boston Globe, October 25, 1935, reported that a bakery wagon, owned by the Quinzani Brothers, crashed into a window at the entrance to the Leopold Morse Co. on Washington Street. The horse went wild, running away, and the wagon ran up onto the sidewalk, crashing into the window.
Runaway horse and bakery wagon, Part 2! Ten years later, the Boston Globe, March 19, 1945, reported on another runaway horse, drawing a Quinzani bakery wagon. The horse became frightened for some reason, galloped away, and the wagon struck several parked cars, although the damages were fairly mild. A police officer was able to grab the reins of the horse, and stop it from fleeing.
It appears that sometime during the 1940s, the Quinzani Brothers started trying to sell their breads to Chinese restaurants in Chinatown, as they were located so close to their bakery. The Boston Globe, May 19, 1996, claimed that the Quinzani were among the first to sell bread to local Chinese restaurants.
Around 1966, the Quinzanis moved their bakery to 380 Harrison Avenue, at the corner of Dover Street. Unfortunately, Ovidio Quinzani died in September 1974 while Liberty died in September 1978, although the next generation kept the bakery in operation. There was little else in the newspapers about the bakery until the 1980s, as it continued to quietly supply numerous Chinese restaurants their bread.
The Boston Globe, January 2, 1981, reported that the 3rd generation was now getting ready to take over the Quinzani Bakery, which apparently had been renamed from Quinzani Brothers. The current Vice President (and 1/3 owner) was Arthur Quinzani, the Treasurer was Albert Quinzani (Arthur's brother), and the President was Alfred Quinzani, a cousin. The third generation, including Larry, Stephen and Andrew, were already involved in the daily running of the bakery. The plan was for Stephen to become the general manager, Larry to become the business manager, and Andrew the machinery engineer.
Probably the first Chinese restaurant in Boston that would serve bread and butter, and probably one of the first anywhere in the U.S., was the Oriental Restaurant, located at 32 Harrison Avenue in Chinatown, which opened in 1895. The Charlotte News (NC), August 4, 1900, printed the menu for this restaurant, noting they sold “Bread and Butter” for 5 cents. So, though it was made available to their customers, it wasn't provided for free.
The New-York Tribune (NY), February 26, 1899, then discussed a Chinese banquet at an unnamed New England Chinese restaurant, mentioning that, “out of deference to American habits, bread and butter were also served, though they were not recommended and were eaten but sparingly.”
The Boston Journal (MA), November 1, 1903, noted an unnamed Chinese restaurant where people were eating chop suey and bread and butter.
The Washington Post (D.C.), December 13, 1903, discussed that when first the Chinese restaurant opened there, the owner was dismayed of the American custom of having bread and butter with all they ate. However, it was then noted that there were now several Chinese restaurants in the city, and they served complimentary bread, but without butter. If a customer wanted bread and butter, they had to pay 5 cents for it. It was claimed that the bread was served without butter, as the restaurants thought their customers might not thus eat it, and they could later give the bread to another customer, saving money.
The Morning News (DE), June 9, 1904, had a brief ad for a Chinese restaurant which offered, “Fried noodles, bread and butter, iced tea and rice and milk” for 35 cents. The Fitchburg Sentinel (MA), August 29, 1905, noted that the Wing Chun Low Co. restaurant served bread and butter with a meal.
Still not all Chinese restaurants served bread and butter. The Boston Globe (MA), March 30, 1913, mentioned that there were two types of Chinese restaurants, one that catered more to the Chinese and the other which was more Americanized, and also served bread and butter.
The Fitchburg Sentinel (MA), January 7, 1916, printed an ad for the Boston Chinese Restaurant Co. which mentioned bread and butter was available as part of a “Regular Dinner.”
Other ads for Chinese restaurants during this time period mentioned the availability of bread and butter with special American-style dinners, such as for Thanksgiving. As the years passed, bread and butter became far more common at many Chinese restaurants, and in the Greater Boston area, one of the primary reasons might have been the presence of a bread bakery, which was initially located across from Chinatown.
Around 1919, the Quinzani Brothers, a bread bakery, opened at 24 LaGrange Street in Boston and they concentrated on French bread and rolls. The year before, in 1918, Liberty (aka Libero) Quinzani and Ovidio Quinzani bought a French pastry shop from Pierre Pomes for $500, and turned it into a bread bakery.
A bread machine accident! The Boston Globe, June 20, 1923, reported that Noapar Abrahamian, age 27, who worked for the Quinzani Brothers, was caught in a bread mixing machine and suffered multiple injuries, although they didn't seem serious.
The Boston Globe, March 3, 1924, noted that Edward H. Eldredge sold to Liberty and Ovidio Quinzani the building and land at 24-26 LaGrange Street, for $17,000. This included 1249 square feet of land (worth $13,700 alone, and a four-story brick and stone building. Thus, the Quinzanis now owned the building where their bakery was located. During the next month, they would offer rooms on the third and fourth floors for rent or lease.
Runaway horse and bakery wagon! The Boston Globe, October 25, 1935, reported that a bakery wagon, owned by the Quinzani Brothers, crashed into a window at the entrance to the Leopold Morse Co. on Washington Street. The horse went wild, running away, and the wagon ran up onto the sidewalk, crashing into the window.
Runaway horse and bakery wagon, Part 2! Ten years later, the Boston Globe, March 19, 1945, reported on another runaway horse, drawing a Quinzani bakery wagon. The horse became frightened for some reason, galloped away, and the wagon struck several parked cars, although the damages were fairly mild. A police officer was able to grab the reins of the horse, and stop it from fleeing.
It appears that sometime during the 1940s, the Quinzani Brothers started trying to sell their breads to Chinese restaurants in Chinatown, as they were located so close to their bakery. The Boston Globe, May 19, 1996, claimed that the Quinzani were among the first to sell bread to local Chinese restaurants.
Around 1966, the Quinzanis moved their bakery to 380 Harrison Avenue, at the corner of Dover Street. Unfortunately, Ovidio Quinzani died in September 1974 while Liberty died in September 1978, although the next generation kept the bakery in operation. There was little else in the newspapers about the bakery until the 1980s, as it continued to quietly supply numerous Chinese restaurants their bread.
The Boston Globe, January 2, 1981, reported that the 3rd generation was now getting ready to take over the Quinzani Bakery, which apparently had been renamed from Quinzani Brothers. The current Vice President (and 1/3 owner) was Arthur Quinzani, the Treasurer was Albert Quinzani (Arthur's brother), and the President was Alfred Quinzani, a cousin. The third generation, including Larry, Stephen and Andrew, were already involved in the daily running of the bakery. The plan was for Stephen to become the general manager, Larry to become the business manager, and Andrew the machinery engineer.
The bakery's main business was wholesale, French bread, French rolls, assorted dinner rolls for restaurants, and submarine-sandwich rolls. It was said they made about 10,000 dozen rolls each day as well as 10,000 dozen loaves of bread.
There was a brief mention in the Boston Globe, June 29, 1991, that “Near Ming’s on Harrison is Quinzani’s Bakery, the institution that sells virtually all the white bread still served in suburban Chinese restaurants.”
Five years later, there was a lengthier article in the Boston Globe, May 19, 1996. “In Greater Boston, the secret to a successful Chinese restaurant is not always in the moo shi, but instead in the French bread. A peculiar local practice nearly a century old, the serving of bread with Chinese meals has created a relationship between an Italian bakery and Chinese restaurants that is as long as it is unlikely.” It was also stated, “The habit has taken root here like no other part of the country, according to the North American Chinese Restaurant Association, though it is not uncommon in Europe.” It was also noted that 20% of the bakery's 94 employees were of Asian descent.
There was a brief mention in the Boston Globe, June 29, 1991, that “Near Ming’s on Harrison is Quinzani’s Bakery, the institution that sells virtually all the white bread still served in suburban Chinese restaurants.”
Five years later, there was a lengthier article in the Boston Globe, May 19, 1996. “In Greater Boston, the secret to a successful Chinese restaurant is not always in the moo shi, but instead in the French bread. A peculiar local practice nearly a century old, the serving of bread with Chinese meals has created a relationship between an Italian bakery and Chinese restaurants that is as long as it is unlikely.” It was also stated, “The habit has taken root here like no other part of the country, according to the North American Chinese Restaurant Association, though it is not uncommon in Europe.” It was also noted that 20% of the bakery's 94 employees were of Asian descent.
The article continued that each morning, from 9am-11am, representatives from over 220 Chinese restaurants, from all across Massachusetts, came to the bakery to purchase bread. They would commonly buy 30 inch baguettes or soft or hard rolls, and, on average, each restaurant would buy about 25 loaves or five dozen rolls, at a cost of 60 cents a loaf and $4.50 for 60 rolls. The bakery would earn about $4300 a day just from their business to Chinese restaurants, about 20% of their overall business.
However, it was also stated that about five years ago many restaurants in Chinatown had stopped serving bread, as they were now catering more to an ethnic Chinese clientele and/or a "hipper" American crowd. Plus, many of the new suburban Chinese restaurants weren't serving bread either.
A year later, the Boston Globe, December 28, 1997, reported that sales at Quinzani’s Bakery for the upcoming New Year’s Eve were 3-4 times normal. “On New Year’s Eve morning, he said, “We’re wall to wall in bread for Chinese restaurants. An esoteric wonder, really.” Rob Roy Quinzani, part of the 3rd generation, said their business was “linked to the suburban corner Chinese restaurant that serves pu pu platters.” He also mentioned that Mandarin and Szechuan food restaurants generally didn't order bread.
The Quinzani bakery came to a close. The Boston Globe, August 10, 2015, reported that the bakery was closing next week, ending its 95+ year history. It was stated, “Quinzani’s may have been responsible for a once-common tradition at local Chinese restaurants: serving dinner rolls with the meals.”
A year later, the Boston Globe, December 28, 1997, reported that sales at Quinzani’s Bakery for the upcoming New Year’s Eve were 3-4 times normal. “On New Year’s Eve morning, he said, “We’re wall to wall in bread for Chinese restaurants. An esoteric wonder, really.” Rob Roy Quinzani, part of the 3rd generation, said their business was “linked to the suburban corner Chinese restaurant that serves pu pu platters.” He also mentioned that Mandarin and Szechuan food restaurants generally didn't order bread.
The Quinzani bakery came to a close. The Boston Globe, August 10, 2015, reported that the bakery was closing next week, ending its 95+ year history. It was stated, “Quinzani’s may have been responsible for a once-common tradition at local Chinese restaurants: serving dinner rolls with the meals.”
It seems clear that Chinese restaurants started serving bread and butter because they wanted to attract more non-Chinese, and most Americans wanted it offered with their meals. Sometime during the 1940s, in the Greater Boston area, the Quinzani Bakery began supplying local Chinese restaurants with bread, eventually serving over 200 Chinese restaurants. This may be an important reason why the New England region became so well known for their Chinese restaurants serving bread and butter. However, around 1991, some local Chinese restaurants stopped serving bread and butter, and over the years, that number has increased, so few Chinese restaurants currently serve it any more.
Do you dine at any local Chinese restaurants which still serve bread and butter?
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