2018 Voskevaz Karasi Collection Areni Noir: Complex, Silky & Delicious

Armenia is one of the contenders as the location of the potential origin of winemaking, with evidence dating back about 8000 years. Like the country of Georgia, another primary contender in this regard, they also have an ancient tradition, extending back thousands of years, of the use of terracotta amphorae, which they call karasi, to ferment and age their wines. 

Unfortunately, during much of the 20th century, the Soviet Union forced the country to produce mainly cheap Sherry-style wines. Once Armenia attained independence, in 1991, its winemaking industry began to change and modernize, to reclaim the glories of the past. Their wines are now starting to get international attention, and locally, they have started to appear on a few wine store shelves, including at Victoria Hill Wine, the shop where I work.

Armenia is a landlocked country, mostly mountainous, which is bordered by Georgia to the north, Azerbaijan to the east, Iran to the south, and Turkey to the west. Though there are about 17,000 hectares of vineyards, most of the grapes are used for their famed brandy production. Wine production is still exploring the potential of their indigenous grapes. 

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The Voskevaz Winery was founded in 1932, but in 1997 it was purchased by David Hovhannisyan, who, with assistance from his brothers, invested much into modernizing the winery.  The name of the winery translates as "golden bunch," referring to grape bunches. The winery is located in the Aragatsotn region of western Armenia. Voskevaz works with local growers to source grapes for some of their wines. Their wines include the Karasi Collection, referring to wines which are fermented in Karas, their traditional clay amphorae, and then matured in oak. In the hills of the Aragatsotn region, ancient karasi have been found through excavation, extending back thousands of years. 

  

With a dinner of Bison Ribeye steaks, I opened a bottle of the 2018 Voskevaz Karasi Collection Areni Noir (about $50). Areni Noir is an ancient, thick-skinned red grape variety, native to Armenia, and cultivated for over 6,000 years, especially in the Vayots Dzor region. It may have originated in the village of the same name, Areni, in that region. Within Armenia, it's used to make a variety of still red wines, rosé and even brandy. Considering the relative isolation of this grape, and its lengthy history, this is a grape that reflects Armenia, which provides a true sense of place. 

The vines of Areni Noir used for this wine are about 130 years old and located at an elevation of about 1600 meters. They are sustainably farmed and the soil is volcanic rock. The grapes are fermented in karasi, the clay amphorae, and then aged for about 15 months in 225 liter oak barrels of local origin. It's then bottled unfiltered, so might have a little sedimentation. Only 300 cases of this were are produced each year, so availability is limited. 

With an ABV of 12.5%, this wine has an appealing aroma of red fruits and touches of earthiness and spice. On the palate, it was silky and complex, elegant and delicious. A fine melange of red fruits, from strawberry to cherry, accented with subtle spices, earthy notes, and peppery touches. A lengthy and satisfying finish completed this well balanced wine. It paired excellently with the bison steaks, and reminded me in some respects of Pinot Noir, which is a common comparison for Areni Noir.

You should definitely explore the wines of Armenia, as well as wines made from the Areni Noir grape. And specifically, I'd highly recommend the 2018 Voskevaz Karasi Collection Areni Noir.