Origin of the Chow Mein Sandwich: A Fall River Invention?

"The question then is "What is a Chow Mein Sandwich?" The chow mein part is easy enough to describe. It is a mixture of minced meat (pork), celery, onions, and bean sprouts in gravy over deep fried noodles. This combination or blend of ingredients is more like a thick sauce or a stew. It is placed between a hamburger bun or between two slices of white bread. For the latter, brown gravy is ladled over the works. As with any category of chow mein, there are variations. In addition to pork (the standard), there are other choices such as chicken, beef, or shrimp."

--Flavor and Fortune, Summer Volume (1999),  Chow Mein Sandwiches by Imogene Lim 

Most sources, including Imogene Lim, claim that this sandwich was invented in Fall River, Massachusetts, and is best known in the Fall River area and parts of Rhode Island, although it was also once available on Coney Island, New York. 

However, the actual origins of this sandwich are murky, and no one seems to be able to pinpoint actually when it was first created. Some think the sandwich was created in the 1930s, while others place its origin in the 1920s, if not earlier. The common reason claimed for its creation is that Chinese restaurants made the sandwich to cater to poor immigrants who wanted something hearty at a very low price. 

Imogene L. Lim, PhD. is considered an expert on the chow mein sandwich and has written a number of articles about it, and has been interviewed in various publications about this sandwich. Most sources rely on her information about the sandwich. I've read her articles and interviews, and found that there are interesting omissions, that she concentrates primarily on Fall River and the surrounding region, without addressing instances of the chow mein sandwich in other parts of the country, from Pennsylvania to Wyoming, during the 1920s and 1930s. These other instances could possibly indicate that the chow mein sandwich originated elsewhere, or that there were multiple independent origins. 

I want to explore the early history of the chow mein sandwich, to try to ascertain its possible origins, and expand the discussion outside of the Fall River region. I previously wrote Origins of the Chop Suey Sandwich, and I found the earliest mention of a chop suey sandwich occurred in California in 1912. This predates, by about 15 years, any reference to a chow mein sandwich. Other references to chop suey sandwiches, from 1914-1930s, were found across the country and not just in Massachusetts. It seems likely the chow mein sandwich was inspired, in part, by the earlier chop suey sandwich.   

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Some sources claim that Frederick Wong, a Chinese immigrant and restaurateur, deserves credit for either the invention or popularity of the chow mein sandwich. Based on the timing and other instances of the sandwich around the country, it's very unlikely that he invented the sandwich. However, it's possible he might have been the inventor of the sandwich in Fall River, as his restaurant was the first to mention the sandwich in that area. Either way, it's clear he helped to contribute to its popularity in Fall River, especially after he opened his own noodle company. 

In 1926, Frederick traveled from Canton, China, to Massachusetts, to study at Salem State University. While visiting his uncle in Fall River, who owned the Hong Kong Restaurant, Frederick decided to enter the restaurant business, and would spend 10 years working at his uncle's restaurant. In July 1927, an advertisement noted that Frederick, as "Fred Wong" was the management of the Island Park Chinese Restaurant and the proprietor of the Hong Kong Restaurant. 

The Fall River Herald News (MA), August 18, 1931, announced the opening of the Hong Kong Restaurant Annex. The ad noted they offered Hot Chow Mein and Chop Suey Sandwiches for 5 cents each, which was the first mention of Frederick and the chow mein sandwich. It was also the first mention of a chow mein sandwich being offered in Fall River. The ad also connected the two sandwiches, and that connection would continue with other Fall River Chinese restaurants.

The Fall River Herald News (MA), August 24, 1932, printed an ad where the price of the sandwiches at the Hong Kong restaurant rose, Chow Mein and Chop Suey Sandwiches for 10 cents each. If you ate the sandwich in the restaurant, you also were given a cup of tea. 

In 1938, Frederick opened the Oriental Chow Mein Company in Fall River, which would become the main source for the area's crispy noodles for chow mein, under the brand name of Hoo-Mee, and which also sold chow mein gravy mix. This helped to make chow mein sandwiches even more popular. Initially, his products were only sold locally, but around 1940, he began packaging the noodles and gravy mix, for sale outside of the local region.

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Chow mein sandwiches were also once sold at Nathan's Famous, the iconic hot dog stand on Coney Island. However, when they first started selling those sandwiches is ambiguous, although Imogene Lim has stated Nathan’s began serving it in the 1920s and other sources claim they didn't start serving it until the 1950s. In Famous Nathan: A Family Saga of Coney Island, the American Dream, and the Search for the Perfect Hot Dog (2016), by Lloyd Handwerker and Gil Reavill, it was stated that Sinta Low, a cook and kitchen manager created chow mein sandwiches for the stand. Sinta was an immigrant from Taiwan, and "his realm was the kitchen, and he rarely ventured out front." No specific year was provided for the creation of this sandwich. 

It was mentioned, “The chow mein sandwich was built with thin fried noodles, Chinese raw noodles, which we used to fry in the potato fryer. I’d take a bun, crease it in the middle, then put in a handful of noodles and spread chow mein on top of them. There were bottles of soy sauce on the counter. Ten cents for the sandwich. People loved it.” The book continued, "When the innovative concoction was advertised on a placard hanging above the counter, Sinta rebelled. He didn’t like the grinning, pigtailed “Chinaman” caricature painted on the sign. Nathan immediately apologized and had the offending placard taken down. 

In Nathan's Famous: The First 100 Years of America's Favorite Frankfurter Company (2016) by William Handwerker, there wasn't a single mention of the chow mein sandwich.

The first mention I found of a chow mein sandwich was back in 1927, but it's not quite what you might have expected. 

The Akron Beacon Journal (OH), July 5, 1927, published an ad for a Chow Mein Sandwich Spread,  a large jar selling for 23 cents. The Widlar Food Products Company, who sold this spread, was based in  Cleveland, and had been founded in 1855. They were known for selling coffee, tea, spices, and condiments, but in 1929, the company was merged, with others, into Standard Brands, Inc.

The Sauk Centre Herald (MN), September 15, 1927, also had ad for this Chow Mein Sandwich Spread, which sold for 30 cents. The Canton Daily News (OH), February 10, 1928, printed an ad for The Acme Cash Basket Stores grocery store, offering "Widlar's Chow Mein Sandwich Spread." selling a jar that regularly sold for 25 cents for only 19 cents.

The Lewiston Daily News (MT), August 11, 1928, had a supermarket ad for supermarket, offering the Chow Mein Sandwich Spread, in small jars for 29 cents and a large jar for 57 cents. The Evening Repository (OH), December 19, 1928, also had an ad for a grocery store which sold Widlar's Chow Mein Sandwich Spread in jars for 15 or 23 cents. 

Could this Sandwich Spread have been the idea that spawned the Chow Mein Sandwich? Unfortunately, the ingredients in this Spread weren't provided in any of the ads. Did it contain crispy noodles? 

The first documented mention I found of a Chow Mein Sandwich was in Pennsylvania in 1928. The Harrisburg Telegraph (PA), April 14, 1928, ran the above ad for the Mandarin Restaurant in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania. It mentioned, "Chicken Chow Mein Sandwich, Luncheon Specialty." This restaurant opened in 1927.

Could Pennsylvania be the actual origin location of the chow mein sandwich? If it had originated in Fall River, how could have information about it have traveled to Pennsylvania? The earlier newspapers hadn't mentioned Fall River and chow mein sandwiches. How quickly could word of mouth have transferred information about the sandwich?  

Two months later, the chow mein sandwich was seen in Wyoming, over 2100 miles from Fall River. The Branding Iron (WY), June 12, 1928, published an advertisement for The Campus Shop, a collegiate cafe, which stated, "Welcome Summer Students." As seen above, one item on the menu was a Chow Mein Sandwich, which sold for 15 cents. If the sandwich originated in Fall River, how could word of it have traveled to Wyoming at this time point? It seems very unlikely that it might have occurred, and more likely Wyoming either invented the sandwich itself or was inspired by somewhere much closer than Fall River. 

The Springfield Leader & Press (MO), December 10, 1929, provided an ad for Williams Luncheonette, offering a "Chicken Chow Mein Sandwich" for 30 cents. Again, Missouri is quite a distance from Fall River. 

Pennsylvania, Wyoming and Missouri. All three states offering Chow Mein Sandwiches before any documented mention of its availability in Fall River. So, did the sandwich originate in one of those three states, or was it an independent origin, separate from the one in Fall River?

I previously wrote an article about the First Chinese Restaurants in Fall River, and the first one, Man Won Low, opened in October 1898. In none of the research for that article did I see any reference to a Chow Mein sandwich. 

It has been said that the heyday of the chow mein sandwich was in the Fall River region during the 1930s and 1940s. It would be in 1931 that would see the first collection of newspaper references to chow mein sandwiches, with a number of Chinese restaurants offering the sandwiches. The first newspaper reference I found for the Fall River area was in the previously mentioned Fall River Herald News (MA), August 18, 1931, which mentioned that the Hong Kong Restaurant Annex offered Hot Chow Mein and Chop Suey Sandwiches for 5 cents each.

The Fall River Herald News (MA), October 30, 1931, reported that there was a price war going on with the Chinese restaurants in Fall River. Chow Mein and Chop Suey Sandwiches were now being offered by at least one merchant for as low as 5 cents each. Other Chinese restaurant owners had banded together to battle this low price, hoping for the price to return to what was normally charged, although that price wasn't mentioned in the article. However, later ads in the coming weeks showed that other restaurants started lowering their sandwich prices to 5 cents as well. 

The Standard Times (MA), November 25, 1931, in an advertisement for the Hong-Fong Restaurant located in New Bedford. It offered Chop Suey and Chow Mein Sandwiches, 1 for 5 cents or 3 for 10 cents. Definitely very inexpensive, especially as compared to the other prices in the ad for different dishes. The Fall River Herald News (MA), November 30, 1931, ran an ad for the Mee King Low Restaurant, which offered a Hot Chow Mein or Chop Suey Sandwich for 5 cents. 

The Fall River Herald News (MA), December 2, 1931, printed an ad for Joe's Restaurant, a new Chinese spot that would open the next day. They would serve Chow Mein and Chop Suey Sandwiches, for 5 cents each. The Fall River Herald News (MA), December 2, 1931, printed an ad for Joe's Restaurant, a new Chinese spot that would open the next day. They would serve Chow Mein and Chop Suey Sandwiches, for 5 cents each. The Fall River Herald News (MA), December 4, 1931, had an ad for the Oriental Chinese Restaurant, which sold Chow Mein and Chop Suey Sandwiches for 5 cents each.

The Fall River Herald News (MA), March 10, 1932, had an ad for the Grand Opening of the Joy Hong Low restaurant, which sold Chow Mein and Chop Suey Sandwiches for 5 cents each. There were also ads in 1932 for chow mein sandwiches for some of the other Fall River restaurants mentioned in the 1931 references.

In the Annual Report from New York Superintendent of Schools (1933), it was noted, “A pupil while eating a chow mein sandwich purchased in the lunch room of the high school, found a piece of glass in her mouth;” So, the chow mein sandwich was popular enough in New York that it was being served at high school cafeterias. 

The Brattleboro Reformer (VT), November 18, 1933, printed the above ad for Christy's Restaurant, which offered Business Women's Luncheons. One of those specials included a "Hot Chow Mein Sandwich."

The Herald News (MA), December 12, 1933, had an ad for the Shanghai Restaurant in New Bedford, which served Chow Mein Sandwiches. 

The Day (CT), January 17, 1935, in an ad for the Anchor Inn, noted a Special where each patron would get a "Chow Mein Sandwich prepared by Our Chinese Chef."

The Jackson Citizen Patriot (MI), February 7, 1935, in an ad for Peck's store, offered a Chow Mein Sandwich for 10 cents.

The Providence Journal (RI), June 6, 1935, posted an ad for the Young China Restaurant, which sold Chow Mein and Chop Suey sandwiches for 5 cents each.

The Niles Daily Star (MI), July 12, 1935, briefly noted, "The chop suey and chow mein sandwiches have made the Oasis Inn a famous place. In fact, it is the only place in this locality that offers the appetizing chow mein sandwich." The chow mein sandwich wasn't that common in Michigan, but was available in at least two places.

The Times (NJ), September 7, 1935, printed an ad for the Hamilton Grill, offering a "Toasted Chow Mein Sandwich" for 10 cents.

The Schenectady Gazette (NY), October 29, 1935, had a restaurant ad, with a Chow Mein Sandwich for 15 cents.

The Press and Sun Bulletin (NY), April 4, 1936, printed an ad for Rose's Restaurant, which offered a Chicken Chow Mein Sandwich for 20 cents.

The Day (CT), January 4, 1937, had an ad for the Palace Restaurant, with a Chow Mein Sandwich, as one choice in their Special 35 Cents Lunch. 

The Battle Creek Moon-Journal (MI), September 17, 1937, in an ad for the Lockshore Dairy Bar, mentioned they sold a Chow Mein Sandwich on Bun for 10 cents.

The Waco News-Tribune (TX), June 14, 1938, mentioned that there was a hot dog stand in New York City,  at 50th and 7th, which also sold chow mein sandwiches.

The Keyport Weekly (NJ), October 6, 1938, advertised a new restaurant which sold Chow Mein Sandwiches for 10 cents.

The Daily Reporter (NY), January 27, 1940, in an ad for the new Chromium Rail, offering a Chinese Chow Mein Sandwich for 25 cents.

The Berkshire County Eagle (MA), May 1, 1940, printed an ad for The China Clipper, "Pittsfield's Only Chinese Restaurant." Their Daily Special, for lunch, was the "Hot Chow Mein Sandwich," for 25 cent.s

The Central New Jersey Home News (NJ), October 26, 1940, in an ad for The Paddock, stated you could get a "Free Hot Chow Mein Sandwich."

The Plain Speaker (PA), January 23, 1941, had an ad for the Dove Restaurant, which offered a Chicken Chow Mein Sandwich and Steamed Rice for 25 cents

The Press and Sun Bulletin (NY), August 16, 1941, printed an ad for Porter's, which stated "The only place in Binghampton where you can get a real Chinese Chow Mein sandwich, Coney Island style."

The Berkshire Eagle (MA), September 9, 1941, had an ad for the East Lee Inn, offering Chicken Chow Mein Sandwich with potato and vegetable for 50 cents.

The Star Tribune (MN), August 17, 1942, in an article from their "Washington Bureau."" it was mentioned that ".., President James Bryant Conant, Harvard, dropped into Washington's oriental restaurant for--a chow mein sandwich."

The Lewiston Daily Sun (ME), August 22, 1946, had an ad for the Nanking Royal Restaurant, offering a Chow Mein Sandwich for 15 cents

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Where were chow mein sandwiches invented? Although Fall River is considered the top choice, there is a clear lack of documentary evidence to indicate when they might have done so. And at best, there are multiple references in 1931 to this sandwich existing at Fall River restaurants. However, there are prior references, in 1928 and 1929, of chow mein sandwiches in Pennsylvania, Wyoming and Missouri, and these cast doubt that Fall River was the originator, or at least the sole originator. 

There's no evidence that these states were inspired by Fall River, especially considering the distances involved. And the sources who claim Fall River invented the sandwich, don't address these other states which offered the sandwich during the 1920s. These earlier references are simply ignored, not mentioned in their articles about the sandwich's origins. Even during the 1930s, chow mein sandwiches were seen outside of Fall River, in states including Pennsylvania, New York, New Jersey, Michigan, Vermont and Connecticut. 

So, did the sandwich actually originate in Pennsylvania, Wyoming and Missouri, or was it an independent origin, separate from the one in Fall River? Without specific documented references to chow mein sandwiches in Fall River during the 1920s, maybe we have to consider the sandwich originated elsewhere.