Origin of the Chow Mein Sandwich: A Fall River Invention?

"The question then is "What is a Chow Mein Sandwich?" The chow mein part is easy enough to describe. It is a mixture of minced meat (pork), celery, onions, and bean sprouts in gravy over deep fried noodles. This combination or blend of ingredients is more like a thick sauce or a stew. It is placed between a hamburger bun or between two slices of white bread. For the latter, brown gravy is ladled over the works. As with any category of chow mein, there are variations. In addition to pork (the standard), there are other choices such as chicken, beef, or shrimp."

--Flavor and Fortune, Summer Volume (1999),  Chow Mein Sandwiches by Imogene Lim 

Most sources, including Imogene Lim, claim that this sandwich was invented in Fall River, Massachusetts, and is best known in the Fall River area and parts of Rhode Island, although it was also once available on Coney Island, New York. 

However, the actual origins of this sandwich are murky, and no one seems to be able to pinpoint actually when it was first created. Some think the sandwich was created in the 1930s, while others place its origin in the 1920s, if not earlier. The common reason claimed for its creation is that Chinese restaurants made the sandwich to cater to poor immigrants who wanted something hearty at a very low price. 

Imogene L. Lim, PhD. is considered an expert on the chow mein sandwich and has written a number of articles about it, and has been interviewed in various publications about this sandwich. Most sources rely on her information about the sandwich. I've read her articles and interviews, and found that there are interesting omissions, that she concentrates primarily on Fall River and the surrounding region, without addressing instances of the chow mein sandwich in other parts of the country, from Pennsylvania to Wyoming, during the 1920s and 1930s. These other instances could possibly indicate that the chow mein sandwich originated elsewhere, or that there were multiple independent origins. 

I want to explore the early history of the chow mein sandwich, to try to ascertain its possible origins, and expand the discussion outside of the Fall River region. I previously wrote Origins of the Chop Suey Sandwich, and I found the earliest mention of a chop suey sandwich occurred in California in 1912. This predates, by about 15 years, any reference to a chow mein sandwich. Other references to chop suey sandwiches, from 1914-1930s, were found across the country and not just in Massachusetts. It seems likely the chow mein sandwich was inspired, in part, by the earlier chop suey sandwich.   

********************

Some sources claim that Frederick Wong, a Chinese immigrant and restaurateur, deserves credit for either the invention or popularity of the chow mein sandwich. Based on the timing and other instances of the sandwich around the country, it's very unlikely that he invented the sandwich. However, it's possible he might have been the inventor of the sandwich in Fall River, as his restaurant was the first to mention the sandwich in that area. Either way, it's clear he helped to contribute to its popularity in Fall River, especially after he opened his own noodle company. 

In 1926, Frederick traveled from Canton, China, to Massachusetts, to study at Salem State University. While visiting his uncle in Fall River, who owned the Hong Kong Restaurant, Frederick decided to enter the restaurant business, and would spend 10 years working at his uncle's restaurant. In July 1927, an advertisement noted that Frederick, as "Fred Wong" was the management of the Island Park Chinese Restaurant and the proprietor of the Hong Kong Restaurant. 

The Fall River Herald News (MA), August 18, 1931, announced the opening of the Hong Kong Restaurant Annex. The ad noted they offered Hot Chow Mein and Chop Suey Sandwiches for 5 cents each, which was the first mention of Frederick and the chow mein sandwich. It was also the first mention of a chow mein sandwich being offered in Fall River. The ad also connected the two sandwiches, and that connection would continue with other Fall River Chinese restaurants.

The Fall River Herald News (MA), August 24, 1932, printed an ad where the price of the sandwiches at the Hong Kong restaurant rose, Chow Mein and Chop Suey Sandwiches for 10 cents each. If you ate the sandwich in the restaurant, you also were given a cup of tea. 

In 1938, Frederick opened the Oriental Chow Mein Company in Fall River, which would become the main source for the area's crispy noodles for chow mein, under the brand name of Hoo-Mee, and which also sold chow mein gravy mix. This helped to make chow mein sandwiches even more popular. Initially, his products were only sold locally, but around 1940, he began packaging the noodles and gravy mix, for sale outside of the local region.

********************

Chow mein sandwiches were also once sold at Nathan's Famous, the iconic hot dog stand on Coney Island. However, when they first started selling those sandwiches is ambiguous, although Imogene Lim has stated Nathan’s began serving it in the 1920s and other sources claim they didn't start serving it until the 1950s. In Famous Nathan: A Family Saga of Coney Island, the American Dream, and the Search for the Perfect Hot Dog (2016), by Lloyd Handwerker and Gil Reavill, it was stated that Sinta Low, a cook and kitchen manager created chow mein sandwiches for the stand. Sinta was an immigrant from Taiwan, and "his realm was the kitchen, and he rarely ventured out front." No specific year was provided for the creation of this sandwich. 

It was mentioned, “The chow mein sandwich was built with thin fried noodles, Chinese raw noodles, which we used to fry in the potato fryer. I’d take a bun, crease it in the middle, then put in a handful of noodles and spread chow mein on top of them. There were bottles of soy sauce on the counter. Ten cents for the sandwich. People loved it.” The book continued, "When the innovative concoction was advertised on a placard hanging above the counter, Sinta rebelled. He didn’t like the grinning, pigtailed “Chinaman” caricature painted on the sign. Nathan immediately apologized and had the offending placard taken down. 

In Nathan's Famous: The First 100 Years of America's Favorite Frankfurter Company (2016) by William Handwerker, there wasn't a single mention of the chow mein sandwich.

The first mention I found of a chow mein sandwich was back in 1927, but it's not quite what you might have expected. 

The Akron Beacon Journal (OH), July 5, 1927, published an ad for a Chow Mein Sandwich Spread,  a large jar selling for 23 cents. The Widlar Food Products Company, who sold this spread, was based in  Cleveland, and had been founded in 1855. They were known for selling coffee, tea, spices, and condiments, but in 1929, the company was merged, with others, into Standard Brands, Inc.

The Sauk Centre Herald (MN), September 15, 1927, also had ad for this Chow Mein Sandwich Spread, which sold for 30 cents. The Canton Daily News (OH), February 10, 1928, printed an ad for The Acme Cash Basket Stores grocery store, offering "Widlar's Chow Mein Sandwich Spread." selling a jar that regularly sold for 25 cents for only 19 cents.

The Lewiston Daily News (MT), August 11, 1928, had a supermarket ad for supermarket, offering the Chow Mein Sandwich Spread, in small jars for 29 cents and a large jar for 57 cents. The Evening Repository (OH), December 19, 1928, also had an ad for a grocery store which sold Widlar's Chow Mein Sandwich Spread in jars for 15 or 23 cents. 

Could this Sandwich Spread have been the idea that spawned the Chow Mein Sandwich? Unfortunately, the ingredients in this Spread weren't provided in any of the ads. Did it contain crispy noodles? 

The first documented mention I found of a Chow Mein Sandwich was in Pennsylvania in 1928. The Harrisburg Telegraph (PA), April 14, 1928, ran the above ad for the Mandarin Restaurant in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania. It mentioned, "Chicken Chow Mein Sandwich, Luncheon Specialty." This restaurant opened in 1927.

Could Pennsylvania be the actual origin location of the chow mein sandwich? If it had originated in Fall River, how could have information about it have traveled to Pennsylvania? The earlier newspapers hadn't mentioned Fall River and chow mein sandwiches. How quickly could word of mouth have transferred information about the sandwich?  

Two months later, the chow mein sandwich was seen in Wyoming, over 2100 miles from Fall River. The Branding Iron (WY), June 12, 1928, published an advertisement for The Campus Shop, a collegiate cafe, which stated, "Welcome Summer Students." As seen above, one item on the menu was a Chow Mein Sandwich, which sold for 15 cents. If the sandwich originated in Fall River, how could word of it have traveled to Wyoming at this time point? It seems very unlikely that it might have occurred, and more likely Wyoming either invented the sandwich itself or was inspired by somewhere much closer than Fall River. 

The Springfield Leader & Press (MO), December 10, 1929, provided an ad for Williams Luncheonette, offering a "Chicken Chow Mein Sandwich" for 30 cents. Again, Missouri is quite a distance from Fall River. 

Pennsylvania, Wyoming and Missouri. All three states offering Chow Mein Sandwiches before any documented mention of its availability in Fall River. So, did the sandwich originate in one of those three states, or was it an independent origin, separate from the one in Fall River?

I previously wrote an article about the First Chinese Restaurants in Fall River, and the first one, Man Won Low, opened in October 1898. In none of the research for that article did I see any reference to a Chow Mein sandwich. 

It has been said that the heyday of the chow mein sandwich was in the Fall River region during the 1930s and 1940s. It would be in 1931 that would see the first collection of newspaper references to chow mein sandwiches, with a number of Chinese restaurants offering the sandwiches. The first newspaper reference I found for the Fall River area was in the previously mentioned Fall River Herald News (MA), August 18, 1931, which mentioned that the Hong Kong Restaurant Annex offered Hot Chow Mein and Chop Suey Sandwiches for 5 cents each.

The Fall River Herald News (MA), October 30, 1931, reported that there was a price war going on with the Chinese restaurants in Fall River. Chow Mein and Chop Suey Sandwiches were now being offered by at least one merchant for as low as 5 cents each. Other Chinese restaurant owners had banded together to battle this low price, hoping for the price to return to what was normally charged, although that price wasn't mentioned in the article. However, later ads in the coming weeks showed that other restaurants started lowering their sandwich prices to 5 cents as well. 

The Standard Times (MA), November 25, 1931, in an advertisement for the Hong-Fong Restaurant located in New Bedford. It offered Chop Suey and Chow Mein Sandwiches, 1 for 5 cents or 3 for 10 cents. Definitely very inexpensive, especially as compared to the other prices in the ad for different dishes. The Fall River Herald News (MA), November 30, 1931, ran an ad for the Mee King Low Restaurant, which offered a Hot Chow Mein or Chop Suey Sandwich for 5 cents. 

The Fall River Herald News (MA), December 2, 1931, printed an ad for Joe's Restaurant, a new Chinese spot that would open the next day. They would serve Chow Mein and Chop Suey Sandwiches, for 5 cents each. The Fall River Herald News (MA), December 2, 1931, printed an ad for Joe's Restaurant, a new Chinese spot that would open the next day. They would serve Chow Mein and Chop Suey Sandwiches, for 5 cents each. The Fall River Herald News (MA), December 4, 1931, had an ad for the Oriental Chinese Restaurant, which sold Chow Mein and Chop Suey Sandwiches for 5 cents each.

The Fall River Herald News (MA), March 10, 1932, had an ad for the Grand Opening of the Joy Hong Low restaurant, which sold Chow Mein and Chop Suey Sandwiches for 5 cents each. There were also ads in 1932 for chow mein sandwiches for some of the other Fall River restaurants mentioned in the 1931 references.

In the Annual Report from New York Superintendent of Schools (1933), it was noted, “A pupil while eating a chow mein sandwich purchased in the lunch room of the high school, found a piece of glass in her mouth;” So, the chow mein sandwich was popular enough in New York that it was being served at high school cafeterias. 

The Brattleboro Reformer (VT), November 18, 1933, printed the above ad for Christy's Restaurant, which offered Business Women's Luncheons. One of those specials included a "Hot Chow Mein Sandwich."

The Herald News (MA), December 12, 1933, had an ad for the Shanghai Restaurant in New Bedford, which served Chow Mein Sandwiches. 

The Day (CT), January 17, 1935, in an ad for the Anchor Inn, noted a Special where each patron would get a "Chow Mein Sandwich prepared by Our Chinese Chef."

The Jackson Citizen Patriot (MI), February 7, 1935, in an ad for Peck's store, offered a Chow Mein Sandwich for 10 cents.

The Providence Journal (RI), June 6, 1935, posted an ad for the Young China Restaurant, which sold Chow Mein and Chop Suey sandwiches for 5 cents each.

The Niles Daily Star (MI), July 12, 1935, briefly noted, "The chop suey and chow mein sandwiches have made the Oasis Inn a famous place. In fact, it is the only place in this locality that offers the appetizing chow mein sandwich." The chow mein sandwich wasn't that common in Michigan, but was available in at least two places.

The Times (NJ), September 7, 1935, printed an ad for the Hamilton Grill, offering a "Toasted Chow Mein Sandwich" for 10 cents.

The Schenectady Gazette (NY), October 29, 1935, had a restaurant ad, with a Chow Mein Sandwich for 15 cents.

The Press and Sun Bulletin (NY), April 4, 1936, printed an ad for Rose's Restaurant, which offered a Chicken Chow Mein Sandwich for 20 cents.

The Day (CT), January 4, 1937, had an ad for the Palace Restaurant, with a Chow Mein Sandwich, as one choice in their Special 35 Cents Lunch. 

The Battle Creek Moon-Journal (MI), September 17, 1937, in an ad for the Lockshore Dairy Bar, mentioned they sold a Chow Mein Sandwich on Bun for 10 cents.

The Waco News-Tribune (TX), June 14, 1938, mentioned that there was a hot dog stand in New York City,  at 50th and 7th, which also sold chow mein sandwiches.

The Keyport Weekly (NJ), October 6, 1938, advertised a new restaurant which sold Chow Mein Sandwiches for 10 cents.

The Daily Reporter (NY), January 27, 1940, in an ad for the new Chromium Rail, offering a Chinese Chow Mein Sandwich for 25 cents.

The Berkshire County Eagle (MA), May 1, 1940, printed an ad for The China Clipper, "Pittsfield's Only Chinese Restaurant." Their Daily Special, for lunch, was the "Hot Chow Mein Sandwich," for 25 cent.s

The Central New Jersey Home News (NJ), October 26, 1940, in an ad for The Paddock, stated you could get a "Free Hot Chow Mein Sandwich."

The Plain Speaker (PA), January 23, 1941, had an ad for the Dove Restaurant, which offered a Chicken Chow Mein Sandwich and Steamed Rice for 25 cents

The Press and Sun Bulletin (NY), August 16, 1941, printed an ad for Porter's, which stated "The only place in Binghampton where you can get a real Chinese Chow Mein sandwich, Coney Island style."

The Berkshire Eagle (MA), September 9, 1941, had an ad for the East Lee Inn, offering Chicken Chow Mein Sandwich with potato and vegetable for 50 cents.

The Star Tribune (MN), August 17, 1942, in an article from their "Washington Bureau."" it was mentioned that ".., President James Bryant Conant, Harvard, dropped into Washington's oriental restaurant for--a chow mein sandwich."

The Lewiston Daily Sun (ME), August 22, 1946, had an ad for the Nanking Royal Restaurant, offering a Chow Mein Sandwich for 15 cents

*******************

Where were chow mein sandwiches invented? Although Fall River is considered the top choice, there is a clear lack of documentary evidence to indicate when they might have done so. And at best, there are multiple references in 1931 to this sandwich existing at Fall River restaurants. However, there are prior references, in 1928 and 1929, of chow mein sandwiches in Pennsylvania, Wyoming and Missouri, and these cast doubt that Fall River was the originator, or at least the sole originator. 

There's no evidence that these states were inspired by Fall River, especially considering the distances involved. And the sources who claim Fall River invented the sandwich, don't address these other states which offered the sandwich during the 1920s. These earlier references are simply ignored, not mentioned in their articles about the sandwich's origins. Even during the 1930s, chow mein sandwiches were seen outside of Fall River, in states including Pennsylvania, New York, New Jersey, Michigan, Vermont and Connecticut. 

So, did the sandwich actually originate in Pennsylvania, Wyoming and Missouri, or was it an independent origin, separate from the one in Fall River? Without specific documented references to chow mein sandwiches in Fall River during the 1920s, maybe we have to consider the sandwich originated elsewhere. 

The History of Cashew Chicken & Springfield-Style Cashew Chicken

About a week ago, the Fodor's Travel website posted an article, The Ozark Town Where Cashew Chicken Was Invented by Erika Ebsworth-Goold (August 12, 2024). The article stated, "Springfield also has an unexpected culinary claim to fame. It’s the birthplace of a beloved takeout classic: cashew chicken." This referred to Springfield, Missouri, and the article also noted, "It turns out the creation was first cooked up more than six decades ago at a Springfield tea house." This was the tale of David Leong, a Chinese immigrant, who owned Leong's Tea House, which opened in 1963. 

The problem is that this story is misleading, and doesn't accurately reflect the truth about the invention of cashew chicken. David Leong plays an important role in the history of cashew chicken, but it requires further explanation.

First, and importantly, cashew chicken is a traditional Chinese dish, sometimes referred to as 腰果鸡丁, (Yāoguǒ jī). To the Chinese, cashews resemble the golden ingots that once were used as a form of currency, so they are consumed during the Chinese New Year, hoping for prosperity for the New Year. However, the traditonal dish is commonly stir-fried in a wok, using small pieces of chicken, with vegetables and roasted cashews, in a light sauce. David Leong clearly didn't invent this dish. So, what did he invent?

The earliest reference I found in the U.S. for "cashew chicken" was in the Chula Vista Star (CA), May 28, 1948. The above advertisement indicated that Dock's served American and Chinese cuisine, and one of their dishes included “Cashew Chicken" for $1.50. 

A few years later, the first recipe appeared in an ad in The Independent, January 25, 1951. The Food Bowl Market offered a recipe for “Chicken-Cashew Nut.” 

However, apparently not all chicken cashew dishes had a Chinese origin. For example, The Patriot News (PA), October 7, 1951, published an article on amateur poultry cooks in Pennsylvania It stated, “Pennsylvania Dutch dishes stopped the poultry show last week in Harrisburg as spectators gazed in wonderment while 28 farm women and two men put together ingredients for tempting poultry and egg dishes.” One of those dishes included “chicken cashew.”

Another example, with a recipe, was included in the Buffalo News (NY), December 11, 1951. There was clearly no Chinese influence in this recipe.

Another non-Chinese influenced recipe was found in The Grand Island Independent (NE), August 21, 1952. This recipe was also printed in newspapers in California, Florida and Wisconsin. 

In the Complete Chicken Cookery (1953) by Marian Tracy, there was another recipe, for a dish that wasn't Chinese inspired.  

The Merced Sun-Star (CA), March 3, 1955, published an advertisement for The Grange Company, noting “Better Feed for California Chickens.” The ad also mentioned, “Sometime in the last 4,000 years a Chinese genius sampled his latest culinary experiment and delightedly announced “This is it!” A recipe for "Chicken with Pineapple and Cashew Nuts." This is the first recipe where the chicken was fried in a batter, and coated with crushed cashew nuts. The recipe is also very different from the traditional Chinese version. 

The fact the chicken in this recipe was fried in a batter is important as over 11 years later, David Leong would become famous for frying his chicken pieces in his cashew chicken dish. It doesn't seem likely that David would have seen this recipe as he was living in Missouri at the time, and probably wouldn't have been reading California newspapers. 

As for Chinese versions of cashew chicken, the Ogden Standard-Examiner (UT), March 8, 1956, briefly mentioned Yu Tou Guy Ding (diced chicken with cashew nuts). In the Daily Palo Alto Times (CA), September 24, 1956, there was an ad from Ming's, a Cantonese restaurant. It mentioned a Typical Family Dinner for Four, and one of the dishes was “Cashew Chicken.” The Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), February 23, 1957, also had a restaurant ad, for Mok Larn Chein restaurant, with a large menu and one of the items was “Cashew nut chicken” for $1.50. 

The Chicago Tribune (IL), November 18, 1957, published a recipe for Chicken Cashew, a "$5 Favorite Recipe" from one of their readers. This recipe obviously was inspired by Chinese recipes. 

The Stockton Evening and Sunday Record (CA), May 9, 1958, ran an ad for Minnie’s, which offered Chinese-American dishes, including “Cashew Chicken Mandarin.” The Journal Herald (OH), September 26, 1958, in a discussion of Chinese restaurants in San Francisco, briefly mentioned "cashew chicken." 

More details came in The Peninsula Times Tribune (CA), February 25, 1959. The newspaper provide a recipe for a Cantonese dish, cashew chicken, which came from Ming restaurant's chef Mee Wah Jung. The article also noted, “The cashew chicken (‘yew dow gai kow’) is cubes of boned chicken, marinated and toss-cooked with crisp cashews from India, onions and bamboo shoots.” This was basically a more traditional version of the dish. 

The Independent (CA), March 27, 1959, had an ad for New China Tea Garden, offering “Cashew Nut Chicken Chow Yuke” for $1.55. The Daily Illini (IL), June 3, 1959, also had an ad for the new Hong Kong Restaurant, with a specialty of Cashew Chicken. The Anaheim Gazette (CA), February 12, 1960, mentioned the Crow’s Restaurant in Long Beach, a Chinese-American restaurant, which served “Cashew Nut Chicken.” During the next couple years, cashew chicken would be mentioned in a number of other ads for Chinese-American restaurants, and there would be other traditional recipes provided as well.  

The Douglas County Gazette (NE), October 12, 1962, offered an interesting recipe variation called "Cashew Chicken Casserole."

Eight Immortal Flavors (1963), a Chinese cookbook, by Johnny Kan & Charles L. Leong, contained a recipe for "Cashew Chicken (Yew Dow Gai Kow)," which was similar to their Walnut Chicken recipe, but with cashews instead of walnuts. This was again, a very traditional recipe. 

And it's also in 1963, that the tale of a new version of Cashew Chicken began, although the origins of that tale extend back over twenty years. Many sources claim that David Leong invented cashew chicken in 1963, but in actuality, he only invented a fried variation of it. And the actual year of that invention is in question.  

************

Around 1940, David Leong, a native of China, immigrated to the United States and soon became a naturalized citizen. During World War II, he was drafted and served during the invasion of Normandy. After the war, David started working in restaurants on the East Coast and in the South, including in New Orleans, Florida, and New York. 

In 1955, David was working at a Chinese restaurant in Florida. There are two different versions of what happened next, although the end result was the same. The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), May 1, 1977, stated that Dr. John L.K. Tsang, a physician in Springfield, Missouri, desired Chinese cuisine in Springfield so he advertised in a Chinese newspaper nationwide. David Leong read the advertisement and persuaded Gee, his brother, to move with him to Springfield, to work in a restaurant and serve Chinese cuisine.

However, six years later, the Springfield Leader and Press (MO), September 21, 1983, provided a different version of this event.  The article claimed that in 1955, Dr. Tsang visited Pensacola, Florida and patronized the restaurant where David worked. Dr. Tsang was so impressed with the food that he convinced David, and his brother, to return to Springfield with him and work in a restaurant there. Whichever version is true, the end result was the same, with David and Gee Leong moving to Missouri to work in a restaurant preparing Chinese cuisine.

The Springfield News-Leader (MO), August 24, 1955, reported that the Lotus Garden restaurant would open that week, offering Chinese and American cuisine. The restaurant was owned by Dr. Tsang, who was said to have employed “a Chinese born-chef who served with the U.S. Army in combat action on the European fronts during World War II.” Neither David Leong or his brother Gee were mentioned by name in the article, although this would be the first restaurant in Springfield they worked in.

The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), January 14, 1956, presented an ad for Lotus Garden, which listed some of their Chinese dishes, from egg rolls to chicken chow mein. 

It seems Dr. Tsang soon after sold the restaurant to Win Yin Leong, who didn't seem related to David Leong. David continued to work at the Lotus Gardens into 1957, although he would move to another restaurant early in 1958.  

The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), April 14, 1958, presented the above advertisement for The Grove, a supper club, where the food was “authentically prepared by David Leong.” David appears to have been the primary chef rather than his brother Gee, as Gee was not mentioned in connection with either Lotus Garden or The Grove. 

A terrible accident! The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), August 7, 1960, reported that a vehicle, a 1960 Pontiac, struck The Grove restaurant. The damage was significant, creating an 8 foot wide and 5 foot high hole in one of the restaurant walls and also causing a minor gas explosion. The vehicle also pinned two cooks, David Leong, age 39, and Yuen Leong, age 28 (this might actually be Gee), to a wall. Both of them sustained second and third degree burns and were taken to the hospital, although they were quickly treated and then released, so the injuries may not have been as significant as they seemed. The vehicle also caused about $10,000 in property damages, which included about $2,000 in dishes. 

A few years later, David and Gee decided to establish their own restaurant. The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), May 12, 1963, reported that David and Gee had plans in the works to open a new Chinese-American restaurant in Springfield. The newspaper noted, “Two Chinese brothers, both cooks, and both already well-known in the Ozarks and nationwide for their original Chinese dishes, will be the owners and operators of the establishment.”

The new restaurant, Leong's Tea House was supposed to open in mid-November, 1963, but an explosion changed those plans. The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), November 18, 1963, reported that someone placed about 10 sticks of dynamite next to a wall of the soon-to-open restaurant. The above photograph shows some of the results of the explosion. The Springfield News-Leader (MO), November 19, 1963, added more information. The property damages were estimated at $2000-$2500, and the building owner, Lee McLean, offered a $1500 reward for information on the bombers. The police believed the dynamite was placed or thrown, maybe in a metal container, at the base of a 8-foot square plastic window. The Leongs had not received any prior threats, and the police didn't have any suspects. Curiously, the two 75-pound stone lions, which were in the front of the restaurant, had also been stolen that same night.  

Arrests made! The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), December 5, 1963, stated that three men had been arrested for “grand stealing” for the theft of the 2 stone lions. The men included Walter Lewis Phillips., III (age 23), Dennis Earl Nelson (age 20), and Ralph Warren Crover (age 37). The three men, pictured above, are posing with the stone lions and certainly don’t look remorseful. 

More information came from the Springfield News-Leader (MO), December 5, 1963. Dennis, a delivery man, and Walter, who designed costume jewelry, admitted to stealing the stone lions. The police then followed up and arrested Ralph, a cosmetologist. However, results of lie detector tests cleared them of any connection to the bombing. It seemed that the theft was merely a strange coincidence. The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), January 13, 1964, then reported that the three defendants pled guilty to new charges of malicious destruction of property and were fined $25 plus costs. 

It didn't appear that the identify of the bomber or bombers was ever solved, and there weren't any other similar incidents. 

The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), December 8, 1963, mentioned that Leong’s Tea House had just opened and the above photo shows the exterior of the restaurant.

The Springfield News-Leader (MO), January 1, 1964, printed the first advertisement for Leong’s Tea House, but it didn't mention cashew chicken. Another ad in the Springfield Leader and Press (MO), January 5, 1964, mentioned that they served Special Sunday dinners including Southern Fried Chicken, and also offered “Delicious Chinese Foods.” Additional advertisements in 1964 for the restaurant continued to mention Southern Fried Chicken, and only a single Chinese dish: "Chow Steaks, Kew." That dish was described as "Sliced Beef Tenderloin With Chinese Vegetables and Pea Pod Mushrooms."

The first mention of cashew chicken at the restaurant was in July 1965, about a year and a half after its opening. The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), July 13, 1965, mentioned that a wedding party was held at Leong’s and they had a menu of cashew chicken and rice. Did David serve cashew chicken when his restaurant first opened in December 1963? And if he did, was it the traditional version? When did David first serve his own variation, where the chicken was battered and fried? It doesn't appear there is any documentary evidence to answer all of these questions. 

There is some information that Leong's Tea House might not have done well at the start, as the populace wasn't too willing to embrace Chinese cuisine. Allegedly, that is when David decided to create some Chinese dishes that appealed more to American tastes. Their Southern Fried Chicken might have been a big seller, so David may have then decided to alter the traditional cashew chicken dish and fried the chicken rather than stir-fry it. So, David's version of cashew chicken might not have been invented until 1964, 1965, or even later. 

The next mention of cashew chicken wouldn't be for another year, when the Springfield Leader and Press (MO), July 28, 1966, noted that another wedding party had a luncheon at Leong and their menu included cashew chicken. The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), September 9, 1966, also mentioned a luncheon meeting with a menu including “cashew chicken.” The Polk County Times (MO), February 9, 1967, had a similar mention. None of these mentions indicated that the cashew chicken was of the fried chicken variation. 

The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), June 5, 1967, presented an ad for The Grove restaurant which mentioned that one of their Chinese dinners included “Cashew Chicken, Egg Foo Young, Steamed Rice” for $1.95. Was this the traditional dish, or had The Grove adopted David's fried chicken variation? Unfortunately, the ad doesn't provide an answer.

Another Springfield restaurant serving cashew chicken! The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), October 31, 1971, noted that the House of Cheong, a Chinese American Restaurant, had recently opened by Cheong Leong, who had 18 years of experiences in the Chinese restaurant business. Cashew chicken was one of their offerings, although again we don't know whether this was the traditional dish or not. 

Leong's Tea House and David Leong received much attention in a lengthy newspaper article in May 1977, about 13 1/2 years after the restaurant's opening. The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), May 1, 1977, began by explaining that Springfield, Missouri had a population of about 146,000, and “has perhaps become the Chinese restaurant capital of the Midwest.” The article also added, “we’re guessing Springfield has more Chinese food outlets per capita” than other major cities.  

The article then stated, “What may surprise many is that the cashew chicken dish served in nearly all of these restaurants originated in Springfield.” The article also explained the two types of cashes chicken. “True, it has a real Chinese counterpart, but the crusty chicken bits, served with rice and oyster sauce so familiar to Springfield diners is David Leong’s version of a steamed chicken dish served in Hong Kong.” David felt that “Americans won’t eat steamed fish or chicken” so he decided to fry it instead in his dish. The exact date of that invention wasn't specified.  

The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), January 3, 1979, provided an article about Gee Leong, and included a recipe for Crispy Cashew Chicken, which would probably be similar to the dish they served at their restaurant. 

The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), September 21, 1983, presented some confusing information. It began with, “About two decades ago, believe it or not, there was no cashew chicken. Not in Springfield. Not even in China.” This was clearly untrue, and the article even contradicted itself, stating, “And knowing the American palate to be fond of fried foods, Leong took a Cantonese steamed chicken dish and adapted it a bit. He dipped the boneless chicken chunks in a tempura-style batter, fried them, covered them with oyster sauce, chopped green onions and cashews, and served them on a bed of rice.” That statement indicated cashew chicken was a Cantonese dish, which David put his on spin on. 

David's variation acquired its own identity. The Columbia Daily Tribune (MO), February 28, 1984, provided the first mention of “Springfield-Style Cashew Chicken,” which was an homage to David Leong. Over time, that name would spread across the country, so everyone understood what Springfield-Style meant. 

The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), April 19, 1989, mentioned that there were about 350 restaurants in Springfield, considering all of the various cuisines, and that about 53 of those restaurants offered cashew chicken. The Daily Journal (MA), May 1, 1990, noted that Springfield had acquired the unofficial nickname of “Cashew Chicken Capital of the Midwest.” The article also noted that a local newspaper columnist had done some calculations, estimating that Springfield restaurants served at least  6697-8554 dishes of cashew chicken each day, averaging 2.4 -3.1 million a year. The article continued,  “Chefs here dip the chicken in batter, deep-fat fry it, smother it with a thick brown sauce made from chicken stock and soy sauce, add cashews and a few bits of green onion and serve the concoction beside a bed of fried rice.”

David Leong may not have invented cashew chicken but his fried variation has achieved its own element of immortality, becoming extremely popular and spreading across the country. David's variation has existed for about 60 years and its popularity has probably never been greater. It's best to refer to his creation as “Springfield-Style Cashew Chicken,” to differentiate it from the classic version. 

Do you prefer the traditional Cashew Chicken or the newer Springfield-style Cashew Chicken?

Origins Of The St. Paul Sandwich: A Missouri Invention?

(This photo of a St. Paul sandwich is courtesy of Mark, aka GastroPublico)

     "The St. Paul Sandwich — comprising an egg foo young patty, slice of tomato, pickle and iceberg lettuce sandwiched between two slices of mayonnaise-laden white bread.."
--Riverfront Times, November 15, 2006

If you've visited some of the Chinese-American restaurants in St. Louis, Missouri, or some other Missouri cities, you might have eaten a St. Paul Sandwich. It's said to be rare to find them available outside of Missouri. The origins of this sandwich are murky, and in an article in the St. Louis Post-Dispatch (MO), September 24, 1990, they stated, "We've heard of St. Paul sandwiches, but we never understood exactly why they're called that or why they're considered a St. Louis specialty." The article also quoted Real American Food, by Jane & Michael Stern, that, "The mystery is that no Louisian seems to know how St. Paul's got their name. Why aren't they called St. Louises?"

It's certainly interesting that in 1990, a major newspaper in Missouri had no information about the origins of the St. Paul Sandwich. Eventually, a potential origin tale arose, which now seems to be the most commonly shared legend about this intriguing sandwich. It's claimed that the sandwich was invented by Steven Yuen at Park Chop Suey in St. Louis. It's further alleged that Yuen named the sandwich after his hometown of St. Paul, Minnesota. The alleged date of its origin varies, ranging from the 1940s to the 1970s. However, is this legend true, and if so, is there proof?

When and where did the St. Paul sandwich originate? And is it only a regional Missouri dish?

Very soon after I started researching this sandwich, I was surprised to find a mention of a St. Paul sandwich from 1903! None of the background articles I'd read had even suggested the sandwich, by that name, was that old. And if so, Steven Yuen definitely didn't invent or name the sandwich. I was convinced to conduct a deeper delve into the origins of this sandwich, to ascertain what I could learn about its origins.

The first reference I found mentioning the St. Paul sandwich, and not surprisingly, was in The Appeal (St. Paul, MN), October 17, 1903. There was an ad for Mills' Sandwich room, and it was suggested you get "the new and popular St. Paul sandwich." So, it looks like the sandwich was invented around that time period and likely was named after the city. However, the article didn't describe the sandwich. A later issue of The Appeal (MN), April 29, 1905, published an ad for J.S. Mills’ Lunch & Sandwich Room, mentioning that a St. Paul sandwich cost 10 cents.

Who would have suspected the St. Paul sandwich extended back to 1903? However, we still need more information as this initial article didn't describe the nature of this sandwich.

It wouldn't be until 1913 that I found a description of the sandwich. The Evening Herald (KS), December 9, 1913, stated, “Egg sandwiches are ten cents in most places where they have been five although some have charged ten for several months. Ham-and-egg sandwiches bring fifteen pennies from that over-drawn purse. A St. Paul sandwich, made of ham, eggs and sometimes onions, is also drawing down the sum of three nickels.” The St. Louis Post-Dispatch (MO), March 4, 1916, also provided a brief recipe for the sandwich, “Scramble eggs in bowl; chop ham fine; add onions and parsley.”

We thus see that this St. Paul sandwich is not the exact same as the one using Egg Foo Young, although as Egg Foo Young is basically an omelet, it's a kind of egg sandwich roughly similar to the original St. Paul sandwich. This original sandwich is a clear ancestor to the Egg Foo Young sandwich, and also makes me strongly suspect that this is the true source of its name, building upon an existing name for the Chinese-American variation. As we can see, the original St. Paul sandwich was known in Missouri at least as far back as 1916.

There were other similar sandwiches to the original St. Paul's Sandwich, some which just were alternative names based on geography, and others which were slight variations on the ingredients. Some of these alternate names include the Denver Sandwich, Western Sandwich, and Manhattan Sandwich.

The first, and brief, mention I found for the Denver Sandwich was in the Sioux City Journal (IA), May 5, 1901. The first references to the Western Sandwich were in the Poultney Journal (VT), April 22, 1904, which had an ad for a new lunch room that sold the Western Sandwich for 10 cents, and the North Adams Transcript (MA), December 15, 1904, which had an ad mentioning the “Western Egg Sandwich.”

The Janesville Daily Gazette (WI), December 9, 1909, had the first mention of a Manhattan Sandwich, where it was listed on a restaurant menu which also included the Denver Sandwich, so we can see those two sandwiches were different in some respect. The previously mentioned Appeal (MN), April 29, 1905, also presented a menu listing a St. Paul sandwich as well as a Denver Sandwich, also for 10 cents. A number of other menus in newspapers over the course of a number of years, would feature both of these sandwiches.

However, what were the fillings in these sandwiches? And which were just synonyms for the same sandwich?

The Berkshire Eagle (MA), December 16, 1907, had a brief mention that the Western sandwich was made with ham. Then, the Daily Missoulian (MT), February 1, 1909, referenced some restaurant slang, noting the Denver Sandwich was made with minced ham, eggs, and onions. Next, the Press & Sun-Bulletin (NY), October 5, 1911, stated the Western Egg Sandwich was made with minced ham and egg but the Boston Post, October 29, 1916, printed that “A Western sandwich consists of ham and onions all chopped up and fried with an egg.”

The St. Louis Post-Dispatch (MO), April 28, 1919, noted that “a St. Paul Sandwich which is composed principally of ham and eggs.” The South Bend Tribune (IN), June 9, 1922, stated that the Manhattan Sandwich had a fried egg, minced ham, and onion.

So, we're actually left with somewhat of a confusing situation, one that acquired some resolution in later years, though some confusion would remain. In short, it seems that the Western, Manhattan and St. Paul sandwiches were essentially the same, with the Denver sandwich being slightly different, and that difference later appeared to be the addition of green peppers to the sandwich. However, the lines between these four sandwiches is blurry, and there are exceptions found. These sandwiches also were known all across the country.

More blurred lines. The Algona Upper Des Moines (IA), September 3, 1940, published, “If you order a Denver sandwich you get egg, onion, chopped meat…if you order a St. Paul sandwich, you get the same thing but with green pepper instead of onion…if the cook likes you, maybe you’ll get both onions and green peppers.” And then the Amarillo Daily News (TX), June 9, 1950, noted that, "A sandwich made of scrambled eggs mixed with chopped-up ham and green peppers is known as a Denver or St. Paul sandwich. There’s a slight difference. You add onions to one. The question is, which one.” It all seems to depend on where you order your sandwich.

So, how did the original St. Paul sandwich evolve into an egg foo young sandwich?

There doesn't appear to be much information readily found online about Steven Yuen of Park Chop Suey. The Riverfront Times, November 15, 2006, indicated that Yuen opened his restaurant in the mid-1970s, which seems to indicate his version of the St. Paul sandwich wasn't invented prior to that time. And if it existed before the opening of his restaurant, then he wasn't the inventor. Further research provided a clearer answer to this matter.

In the Indianapolis Star (IN), June 24, 1962, there was an article about recent changes at The Lantern restaurant, which was owned by the Chung family. Their menu included an Egg Foo Young Sandwich for 40 cents. This was the earliest mention of such a sandwich I was able to find, and obviously predates any sandwich Yuen might have created in the 1970s. The Indianapolis Star (IN), April 21, 1963, also mentioned a restaurant, the China Palace, which served an Egg Foo Young Sandwich. Their sandwich was served open-faced on bread and topped by gravy.

A recipe appeared! The Arkansas Democrat (AR), July 18, 1963 and the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette (PA), August 1, 1963, presented the same recipe for "Oriental Egg and Shrimp Sandwiches," an "Americanized version of the famous Chinese dish, Egg Foo Young." Basically, you make an omelet similar to Egg Foo Young, which is placed onto a hamburger bun, to which is added tomato slices, watercress and soy sauce. An Egg Foo Young sandwich!

The Green Bay Press-Gazette (WI), August 7, 1963, published the same recipe but added some introductory information lacking in the other article. One of the most interesting bits is that this is a low-calorie recipe, about 235 per serving. Both the Daily Journal (NJ), August 28, 1963, and Clarion-Ledger (MS), September 5, 1963, repeated the information from the Green Bay newspaper. During the early 1960s, the idea of an Egg Foo Young sandwich appeared across the country, from Arkansas to Wisconsin, Missouri to Pennsylvania.

Wong's Chinese Frozen foods appeared to have been around since at least 1950, and one of their products was frozen Egg Foo Young. The San Diego Union (CA), January 8, 1964, presented one of Wong's ads, explaining how their frozen Egg Foo Young could be used to create an "Eastern Denver" sandwich, simply placing the patties between a couple slices of bread. The Battle Creek Enquirer (MI), June 9, 1966, also noted a restaurant selling a Hot Egg Foo Young Sandwich, with gravy, for 65 cents.

Clearly, Yuen wasn't the first to put egg foo young between two slices of bread to make a sandwich. At best, he might have been the first to add mayo, lettuce, tomato, and pickles to his sandwich, a minor variation to a pre-existing sandwich idea. His version simply became very popular in Missouri and acquired a legend all its own, ignoring all of the history that came before.

Plus, it seems probable that Yuen adopted the name, St. Paul Sandwich, from the long-existing "omelette" sandwich, rather than naming it after his hometown. It just happened to be a happy coincidence Yuen was from St. Paul. I'll also note that the claims about Yuen being the inventor and namer of the St. Paul sandwich all come from at least second-hand sources. I haven't found any sources that directly quoted Yuen about the invention. He might never had made such a claim. It might have been those around him who created the myth around Yuen and the St. Paul sandwich.

So, do you want to enjoy a St. Paul Sandwich now?

360 Vodka: A Very EcoFriendly Alcohol

Many people are concerned about the environment and seeking "green" products. Climate change is a hot topic and many are trying ways to reduce their carbon footprint. My friends over at Catavino recently attended a Climate Change and Wine Conference and their posts sparked some interesting discussion on these topics.

There is plenty of talk about "green" wines, of organic and biodynamic wines. But you see much less about other green practices used by wine makers. So what is the greenest wine, or other alcohol? And how do you judge what is greenest? Though that might be hard to determine, I think I have found a potential contender for the top spot. And it is not even a wine.

This contender is 360 Vodka and it is made in the U.S. I feel it is a top contender because its ecofriendly practices seem the most extensive that I have ever seen for any such product. Their green practices extend to all aspects of their business, from production to marketing and sales.

McCormick Distilling Co. Inc., located in Weston, Missouric, has been around since 1856 and is the oldest continuously operated distillery in the U.S. It recently created a new division, Earth Friendly Distilling Company, to produce their new product, 360 Vodka. This division is dedicated to a philosophy of eco-awareness and corporate responsibility.

They use 100% locally grown grains from northeastern Kansas and northwestern Missouri, which helps reduce emissions from transportation. The vodka is quadrupled distilled and five times filtered in an energy efficient way so that none of the grain goes to waste. Their production facility captures the carbon dioxide produced by distillation and they use 200% less energy than the common pot still method. They offset 100% of their electricty through Renewable Energy Credits.

Their ecofriendly ways extend to the packaging. Their bottles are made from 85% recycled glass to their labels and paper are made from chlorine free, recycled paper. Even the peanuts used in their packaging are 100% biodegradeable and dissolve in water. If you return the bottle closure (and they give you a handy envelope to do so), they donate $1 to environmental organizations.
They have even begun using hybrid and biodiesel trucks to transport their products in three states.

I should note that the carbon footprint from the transportation of wine and other alcohols can be high. For more information, check out Dr. Vino's research findings in that area. Thus, enacting ways to reduce the transportation carbon footprint are very important.

You can read much more about their "green" ways on their website. There are many more things that they do than the few I mentioned. The entire matter certainly impressed me and I think it helps create a high standard for other companies seeking to make a greener product.

But then comes an important test. How does 360 Vodka taste? How does it compare to other premium vodkas on the market?

This raises some additional questions and issues.

1) Would you buy this vodka because it is so ecofriendly, even if you felt the quality of the vodka was not as good as a less eco-friendly bottle, the price being equal?

2) Would you buy this ecofriendly vodka if it tasted the same as other premium vodkas, but was more expensive? If so, how much more money would you be willing to pay?

3) How much does the fact the vodka is ecofriendly factor into you purchasing decision?

Well, I did taste this vodka. I kept it in my freezer for a time so that it would be properly cold for me. I prefer my premium vodka ice-cold, either straight up or on the rocks. I won't mix a premium vodka with anything. I would rather use a lesser quality vodka if I am mixing. And how did I feel about the 360 Vodka?

I was very impressed with its taste. It is very clean and smooth with absolutely no bite or bad aftertaste. It definitely has its own unique flavor, making it a different taste than some other premium vodkas. Though its flavors are mild and elusive, hard to definitively identify. It makes for an excellent vodka and something I would definitely drink. And I am very picky with my vodka.

The 360 Vodka retails for about $25-30, which makes it comparable to most other premium vodkas. Taste wise, it is at the very least, the equal of other premium vodkas. And better than some, such as Grey Goose. So, the fact that it is a very ecofriendly company does seem to tip the scales in its favor, everything else being roughly equal. So, I would definitely recommend 360 Vodka. I have seen it in a number of local liquor stores so it should be easy to find.