Shabo Telti-Kuruk: A Taste of Ukraine

Have you ever tasted a wine from Ukraine? Ukraine has a lengthy history of winemaking, extending back nearly 3000 years. At one point, Ukraine was the largest wine producer in the U.S.S.R., but Soviet changes destroyed many of their vineyards, forcing them to produce high-volume, high-alcohol wines. And with the current war in Ukraine, wine production is difficult, although some wineries are still trying to produce quality wines. 

Only a small amount of wines from Ukraine are currently exported to the U.S., and one of the newest importers is Spyrt Worldwide, which was established by three military veterans a few years ago. One of their major imports are the wines of Shabo Winery, and Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet, in Melrose, now carries two Shabo wines. 

The Shabo Winery was founded in 2003 by Vaja Iukuridze and his family, and is located in the village of Shabo, which the region has a 2000 year old history. Back in 1822, Swiss colonists established vineyards and winemaking in this region. When Vaja got involved, the area only possessed a run-down factory, so he had to build a new facility and plant more vineyards. In over 20 years, Shabo has become one of the largest wineries in Ukraine, owning about 1200 hectares of vineyards, growing over 20 different grapes, and producing about 15 million bottles annually. 

One of the grapes they grow is a native variety, a white grape called Telti-Kuruk, who name roughly translates as "fox tail," possibly due to the look of its grape bunches. The first mentions of this group extend back at least to the 16th century. This grape grows primarily in the Shabo region, with some vines over 50 years old, and total plantings equal about 70 hectares. The Shabo winery grows over half that amount, about 43 hectares. The grape can be used to make white wines, sparkling wines, dessert wines and can even be eaten as a table grape. 

The 2023 Shabo Telti-Kuruk Reserve ($27.99), with a 11.5% ABV, presents a compelling case for this native Ukrainian grape. However, information on its production is elusive. It's a light wine, with an alluring aroma of stone fruit, floral notes and a touch of ginger. On the palate, it possesses a complex melange of flavors, from peach to lemon, herbal notes to a subtle nuttiness. There's also a hint of brininess, with a mild floral element. Elegant and balanced, with lively acidity and a lengthy, pleasing finish. Absolutely delicious!

This wine would pair well with seafood, light chicken dishes, cheese, and more. I've never tasted this grape before, but this wine impressed me, and I see much potential with this native grape. It receives my hearty recommendation, and you really should taste it. 

And please check out my recent Rant, Wine Activism & Ukraine, which gives you more reasons to experience Ukraine wine.