Shabo Telti-Kuruk: A Taste of Ukraine

Have you ever tasted a wine from Ukraine? Ukraine has a lengthy history of winemaking, extending back nearly 3000 years. At one point, Ukraine was the largest wine producer in the U.S.S.R., but Soviet changes destroyed many of their vineyards, forcing them to produce high-volume, high-alcohol wines. And with the current war in Ukraine, wine production is difficult, although some wineries are still trying to produce quality wines. 

Only a small amount of wines from Ukraine are currently exported to the U.S., and one of the newest importers is Spyrt Worldwide, which was established by three military veterans a few years ago. One of their major imports are the wines of Shabo Winery, and Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet, in Melrose, now carries two Shabo wines. 

The Shabo Winery was founded in 2003 by Vaja Iukuridze and his family, and is located in the village of Shabo, which the region has a 2000 year old history. Back in 1822, Swiss colonists established vineyards and winemaking in this region. When Vaja got involved, the area only possessed a run-down factory, so he had to build a new facility and plant more vineyards. In over 20 years, Shabo has become one of the largest wineries in Ukraine, owning about 1200 hectares of vineyards, growing over 20 different grapes, and producing about 15 million bottles annually. 

One of the grapes they grow is a native variety, a white grape called Telti-Kuruk, who name roughly translates as "fox tail," possibly due to the look of its grape bunches. The first mentions of this group extend back at least to the 16th century. This grape grows primarily in the Shabo region, with some vines over 50 years old, and total plantings equal about 70 hectares. The Shabo winery grows over half that amount, about 43 hectares. The grape can be used to make white wines, sparkling wines, dessert wines and can even be eaten as a table grape. 

The 2023 Shabo Telti-Kuruk Reserve ($27.99), with a 11.5% ABV, presents a compelling case for this native Ukrainian grape. However, information on its production is elusive. It's a light wine, with an alluring aroma of stone fruit, floral notes and a touch of ginger. On the palate, it possesses a complex melange of flavors, from peach to lemon, herbal notes to a subtle nuttiness. There's also a hint of brininess, with a mild floral element. Elegant and balanced, with lively acidity and a lengthy, pleasing finish. Absolutely delicious!

This wine would pair well with seafood, light chicken dishes, cheese, and more. I've never tasted this grape before, but this wine impressed me, and I see much potential with this native grape. It receives my hearty recommendation, and you really should taste it. 

And please check out my recent Rant, Wine Activism & Ukraine, which gives you more reasons to experience Ukraine wine.

Rant: Wine Activism & Ukraine

"With our wine purchases, I believe, we can help advance regional peace, provide support for farmers in war-torn regions, have a voice in geopolitics, and aid in economic recoveries."
--Peter Weltman

When you purchase a bottle of wine, you're doing more than just buying alcohol. It can be a political decision, a moral decision, an economic decision. You can become, and should be, a wine activist.

Back in 2017, SevenFiftyDaily published a fascinating article, "How Wine Buyers Can Become Activists" by Peter Weltman, a sommelier and writer in San Francisco. Peter described how his view of being a sommelier shifted, of how he became more of an activist by "leveraging wine’s privileged standing to improve people’s lives." He even created a hashtag for this activism, #BorderlessWine, reflective of being adventurous in one's wine choices, going beyond the usual suspects.

Unfortunately, much of the discussion on this topic has died off in the last several years. It was popular for a couple of years, but for unknown reasons, it didn't last. Peter's website is apparently gone, and the #BorderlessWine hashtag isn't used any longer. His thoughts though are probably even more important now than ever, in these politically turbulent times, so I wanted to promote his ideas once again.

Wine is often seen as a mere luxury, something of little importance in the greater picture considering all of the problems in our world. However, wine purchases can actually have a significant impact in numerous ways, even on a global basis. Such purchases are vital to the economies and political stability of numerous countries. It can be a valuable export, provided other countries are willing to buy their wines. To assist these countries, we should consider that potential impact when we decide which wines to buy for our consumption.

In his article, Peter discussed wines made in Israel, Lebanon, Greece, Turkey, Palestine, and Georgia. One of the first examples he mentioned included a collaboration between a Palestinian grape grower and an Israeli winery. He continued on, mentioning Chateau Musar, which continued to produce excellent wine through the unrest in Lebanon. These are people and countries worthy of your support, who are also producing quality wines.

One of Peter's primary points is that "Financial support of a country’s wines contributes to the well-being of regions, countries, and producers." Countries like Greece, whose economy has undergone much turbulence, economically benefit if more people purchase their wines. Georgia, which is still recovering from when Russia controlled the country, also benefits from more people buying their wines. With our wallets and pocket books, we can help to bring about positive change. 

Your support of wines from these regions should be easy because these countries are making plenty of delicious and interesting wines, often from unique and indigenous grapes. They often have lengthy wine histories, extending thousands of years into the past. They produce all types of wines, reds, whites, rosé, sparkling, dessert, fortified, and more. Wine lovers can learn so much by exploring these regions. I've introduced numerous people to wines from these regions and most often receive positive feedback from these people. 

These ideas came to my mind recently as the wine shop where I work, Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet, in Melrose, now carries two wines from Ukraine. Both of the wines, a White and a Rosé, are from the Shabo Winery, with its roots extending back over 200 years. The history of wine in the Ukraine goes back over 2000 years, and the Russian invasion has caused great damage to the Ukrainian wine industry, so that industry could use support. 

The Shabo white wine is made from a native grape, Telti-Kuruk, and I tasted it out this past Saturday and it was very well received by consumers. I found it to be delicious as well, and it would pair nicely with seafood, chicken, and cheese. The Rosé is a blend of Pinot Noir and Merlot, and I hope to taste it soon, as I'm eager after tasting the Telti-Kuruk. 

With the war going on in Ukraine, supporting their economy by buying their products can be a small way to help their country. It's difficult to obtain Ukraine wines in the U.S., but you have an opportunity now to purchase two Ukraine wines, and be a wine activist. And also get to experience something different, and expand your wine palate. 

I strongly urge you to read Peter's article and then give much more consideration to which wines you purchase. Try to support and improve these regions by purchasing their wines, as well as spreading the word about their wines. If you are so inclined, become more of an advocate for these wines, becoming an unofficial ambassador. I often passionately advocate for these wine region, and will continue to do so. Please join me in this endeavor.

As Peter concludes, "Wine transcends borders and bridges cultures, and it can be used to improve lives if we make the right purchases."