Its origins are murky, with several different stories about its creation, which generally lack any supporting evidence. For example, some sources claim the bread originated with the Native Americans, and their recipe was eventually adopted by the Puritans. Others claim the bread was created in the late 19th century, maybe in Gloucester or Rockport. There's also a fanciful tale of how the bread acquired its name, involving a lazy wife and her husband who ends up baking the bread.
I'll provide some documentary evidence to try to better understand the true origins of Anadama bread, including what may be the oldest documented reference to the bread, which isn't included in any of the other articles about its origins which I have seen.
Some sources claim that the earliest printed reference to Anadama bread (in any of its spellings) was in 1915, in a book, Dialect Notes. However, other sources indicate an earlier reference, a cookbook known as Reliable Receipts For the House Wife. The first edition of this book is from 1888, but that edition doesn't appear readily available, so it's difficult to know for a surety that it actually included a recipe for Anadama. And I have yet to seen any evidence to prove the 1888 edition included that recipe. However, we can be sure that the 3rd edition, published in 1900, does have such a recipe.
Anadama bread is sometimes thought to have been inspired by brown bread. One type of Colonial brown bread was called "Rye-n'-injun," as it was made with a mixture of rye and corn meal (Indian meal), and sometimes sweetened with molasses. However, the bread was commonly steamed, as many lacked ovens to bake their bread. Later recipes for Anadama bread sometimes used a combination of rye, corn meal, and molasses, while other recipes omitted the rye or even the corn meal.
My own research found an even older reference to those commonly put forth for Anadama, to one of its alternative spellings, "Amidama" bread. The Resident and Business Directory of Rockport, Mass. (1888-1889), provided a brief advertisement for the King Street Bakery, located at 12 King Street. The ad stated they were “Bakers of Soft Bread, Cake, Pastry and the Celebrated ‘Amidama’ Bread.” This indicates that Amidama bread was already well known at that point. It's interesting that this ad did not specifically indicate whether the bakery invented this type of bread or not. We also don't know how long this bakery has been making Amidama bread, and it's difficult to find any older Rockport directories online.
Let's return to the Reliable Receipts For the House Wife (3rd edition, 1900), which was contributed by the Ladies of the First Baptist Church, Gloucester, MA. This edition is the only one available online, so we can't say for a surety that earlier editions included the recipe. Above is a picture of their recipe for Amidama bread, aka Johnston’s Brick Loaf, in the 3rd edition. It's possible that Amidama might be the first name for this type of bread, preceding its later name as Anadama bread.
Two years later, The Country Gentleman: For the American Farmer and His Family (May 3, 1924), discussed "Ammy-dammy Bread." The article stated, “In the days when the stagecoach was the only means of transportation between the towns, there was a tavern on the road from Salem to Boston that made and sold a certain kind of bread. It became so popular that one traveller told another and people even sent from the city for a loaf of what they called from its (word unknown) ‘Epidemic Bread.’ One day a little girl being sent for some, and finding the name too difficult to master, asked for a loaf of ‘ammy-dammy bread,’ by which it was known ever after.” The above recipe was also provided, allegedly, “the way the originator made it.”
This origin tale seems to reflect what was previously provided in the Dialect Notes, Volume IV, Part III (1915), especially the mention of the Old Salem Tavern. It also reflected some of what was provided in the Buffalo Evening News (NY), November 6, 1906, especially concerning epidemic bread and ammy-dammy bread. The recipe is also the same as provided in the Buffalo Evening News, which omitted corn meal, considered an essential ingredient in Anadama bread.
Five years later, the Morning Union (MA), November 22, 1929, published an article on Thanksgiving Cookery. It was noted that many of the recipes were acquired from the Native Americans, including “ammy-dammy bread” It continued, “Then there was ammy-dammy bread, the basis of which was yellow cornmeal. The following recipe is taken out of an old kitchen scrapbook, one that has been well thumbed by many generations of cooks. One half cup of yellow cornmeal; one half cup of molasses; one tablespoon of lard: one teaspoon of salt, and two cups of boiling water. After the mixture has become lukewarm add one yeast cake dissolved in a half cup of water. Now mix in sufficient bread flour—in Colonial days this flour was the home-milled product—to make a stiff dough. Let it rise overnight. In the morning stir down and divided into four baking pans. Again it should be allowed to rise, and then into the oven for 45 minutes baking.
This supports the prior claim that Anadama bread reaches back to Colonial times, and originated with the Native Americans. This article would be reprinted over the next several years in other newspapers in New England.
During the later 1930s, another origin tale arose, one which has become very prominent, although often slightly revised, in the legends of the origins of Anadama bread, probably because the story seems more interesting. The Centre Daily Times (PA), July 8, 1937, claimed the recipe for Anadama bread was over 200 years old, having originated with the Puritans. It was alleged that a man had a lazy wife, named Anna, who predominantly fed him plates of mush. One day, tired with all of that simple mush, the man decided to mix the mush with other ingredients, baking it into a loaf. He allegedly commented that he had to cook “because my Anna, dam ‘er, won’t.” Thus, his load eventually became known as "Annadammer" and then later it was shortened to "Anadama."
The New England Yankee Cook Book: An Anthology of Incomparable Recipes from the Six New England States (1939) by Imogene B. Wolcott, repeated the tale that a man, who was a fisherman, had a lazy wife, had to do his own cooking, and named one of his creation after his wife, “Anna, damn her.” It was also noted that "This is an old Concord, Mass., recipe." A recipe (pictured above) was included, although its source was a woman from Manchester, New Hampshire.
The Bangor Daily Commercial (ME), October 16, 1940, had previously attributed the creation of Anadama bread to Concord, Massachusetts, likely basing it on information from the New England Yankee Cook Book. However, some readers claimed the newspaper was wrong, and that the bread was actually created in Rockport. A reader stated, “... the recipe was original with a Mrs. Knowlton of Rockport, Mass., and was kept a family secret for several years. I bought it frequently fifty years ago from their bakery." This connects to the prior reference of King Street Bakery, in Rockport, owned by Eben and Benjamin Knowlton, although that reference didn't mention a Mrs. Knowlton.
The article also provided a recipe for “Annadama Bread," which is pictured above.
The Rutland Daily Herald (VT), August 10, 1948, published another version of the origins of Annadama bread. It claimed that a Cape Ann fisherman had a lazy wife who often didn't prepare anything for dinner. One day, the man tried to create something from mush and molasses, creating a tasty bread. He continued to make this bread, sometimes giving it to his neighbors. A neighbor asked him the name of the bread and the man decided to name it after his wife, "Anna, damn her."
The Freeport Facts (ME), June 2, 1953, published a recipe for Ammydammy bread, and it stated the real name was Anadama Bread. It was also claimed that this bread “... was first turned out by the Blacksmith Shop Pastries in Rockport, Mass.” This is the first mention of this bakery being involved in the story of Anadama bread. However, the evidence shows Anadama bread couldn't have originated at the Blacksmith Shop, which didn't exist until the 1940s.
In the 1940s, William and Melissa Smith owned a restaurant in Rockport called The Blacksmith Shop. At some point, they opened a small bakery to supply their restaurant with bread, including (and maybe solely) Anadama bread. In 1954, they formed Anadama Bread, Inc., and established a new, larger bakery in 1956. In 1964, they also formed a subsidiary, Anadama Mixes, Inc. The Smiths would apply for a trademark for "Anadama", claiming that the first use of the term was in 1850, and that the first commercial use was on July 1, 1876, although no specifics were provided. However, both corporations were involuntary dissolved in October 1983.
The origins of Anadama bread remain murky, but some clarity has arisen, especially pushing the date of the oldest known printed reference. From an advertisement in a Rockport directory of 1888-1889, the King Street Bakery, owned by Eben Knowlton, was noted as producing Amidama bread. Eben had been a baker since 1848, and is a potential candidate for being the inventor of Anadama bread. More research into the King Street bakery and Eben Knowlton could uncover older references to Amidama bread.
Some sources claim that the earliest printed reference to Anadama bread (in any of its spellings) was in 1915, in a book, Dialect Notes. However, other sources indicate an earlier reference, a cookbook known as Reliable Receipts For the House Wife. The first edition of this book is from 1888, but that edition doesn't appear readily available, so it's difficult to know for a surety that it actually included a recipe for Anadama. And I have yet to seen any evidence to prove the 1888 edition included that recipe. However, we can be sure that the 3rd edition, published in 1900, does have such a recipe.
Anadama bread is sometimes thought to have been inspired by brown bread. One type of Colonial brown bread was called "Rye-n'-injun," as it was made with a mixture of rye and corn meal (Indian meal), and sometimes sweetened with molasses. However, the bread was commonly steamed, as many lacked ovens to bake their bread. Later recipes for Anadama bread sometimes used a combination of rye, corn meal, and molasses, while other recipes omitted the rye or even the corn meal.
More information about this bakery was provided in Bakers and Baking in Massachusetts (1909) by Arthur W. Brayley, noted that Eben Knowlton established a bakery in Rockport in 1848, although the name of the bakery wasn't provided. So, it's unsure whether Eben started King Street Bakery in 1848 or not. One of his sons, Benjamin H. Knowlton, was born on December 6, 1863, and eventually worked at his father's bakery. When Eben died in 1903, Benjamin became the owner, and it was said that his specialty was Amadama Bread (the first use of this other name for this bread). Unfortunately, Benjamin passed away in 1912. It's possible that Eben was the inventor of Amidama bread.
Some sources theorize, based on this reference, that Anadama bread originated at Johnston's bakery in Gloucester during the 1880s. However, when I checked the Resident and Business Directories of Gloucester during the 1880s, I didn't find any reference to Amidama bread or a bakery owned by a Johnston. It seems doubtful that a Johnston bakery existed in Gloucester during the 1880s.
An intriguing article appeared in the Buffalo Evening News (NY), November 6, 1906, which referenced a prior article in the Boston Transcript. It included a couple new names for Anadama bread: the "epidemic bread" and "ammy dammy bread." The article was titled, Epidemic Bread, and it stated, “Some sixty years ago, says the Boston Transcript, the bread mentioned was by a skilled baker at Gloucester. This is the traditional receipt (sic), then a secret. I have good reason to believe it accurate. One cup rye meal, one-half cup molasses, one-half cup yeast, one pint lukewarm water, salt. Thicken with white flour is stiff as can be stirred with a spoon. The bread became famous. Summer boarders, mostly from Boston in those days, were known to plan its after use at the home table. From its great popularity it was humorously called ‘the epidemic bread.’ A little miss, unskilled in words, sent to the bakershop for a loaf, said, ‘Mother wants some of that ammy dammy bread.’ And it was known by this name ever after.”
This article would seem to indicate Anadama bread originated in the late 1840s in Gloucester. However, there is a significant problem with the recipe that was provided in this article as it omitted corn meal, aka Indian meal, an essential ingredient for Anadama bread. The article also appeared to include the first written references to "epidemic bread" and "ammy dammy bread." If the bread had been previously so popular, you would have expected at least the term epidemic bread to have been printed earlier.
The Dialect Notes, Volume IV, Part III (1915) included a section on “Colonial Cookery Terms,” which were "taken from old recipes preserved in the family of Miss Rogers or collected by her for use in the Chimney Corner Inn, the home of Deacon John Cooper, built in Cambridge in 1657, and now in possession of the Society for the Preservation of New England Antiquities.” One of the terms was “Ammy Dammy bread. A kind of loaf bread. Recipe from Old Salem Tavern.” This would seem to indicate that the origins of Anadama bread reached back to Colonial times.
The cookbook, More Recipes For Fifty (1918) by Frances Lowe Smith, provided the recipe for "Yami-Dami Bread." This is another term for Anadama bread, and the first written reference for it.
During the 1920s, a number of newspapers discussed the possible origins for Anadama bread, offering at least three different versions. It seems no one could agree on its true origins.
The Dialect Notes, Volume IV, Part III (1915) included a section on “Colonial Cookery Terms,” which were "taken from old recipes preserved in the family of Miss Rogers or collected by her for use in the Chimney Corner Inn, the home of Deacon John Cooper, built in Cambridge in 1657, and now in possession of the Society for the Preservation of New England Antiquities.” One of the terms was “Ammy Dammy bread. A kind of loaf bread. Recipe from Old Salem Tavern.” This would seem to indicate that the origins of Anadama bread reached back to Colonial times.
During the 1920s, a number of newspapers discussed the possible origins for Anadama bread, offering at least three different versions. It seems no one could agree on its true origins.
The Bridgeport Times (CT), January 4, 1922, noted, “Amadama bread was first originated in Gloucester, Mass. by a Mrs. John S. Johnston who had a ‘bakehouse’ there in our forefathers’ time." She later gave the recipe to the Ladies of the First Baptist Church who published it in their ‘Reliable Cook Book.’ The article also stated that it was almost impossible to explain origin of name Amadama.
The article continued, “... when Mrs. Johnston first introduced the bread housewives clamored for it and it became most popular. For this reason Mrs. Johnston called it ‘Epidemic Bread,’ which name was mispronounced by an ignorant maid in one customer’s home, who called it ‘amadama.” This later point seems to run contrary to the recipe provided in the Reliable Cook Book, where it was referred to as Johnston’s Brick Loaf (or Amidama Bread).
Two years later, The Country Gentleman: For the American Farmer and His Family (May 3, 1924), discussed "Ammy-dammy Bread." The article stated, “In the days when the stagecoach was the only means of transportation between the towns, there was a tavern on the road from Salem to Boston that made and sold a certain kind of bread. It became so popular that one traveller told another and people even sent from the city for a loaf of what they called from its (word unknown) ‘Epidemic Bread.’ One day a little girl being sent for some, and finding the name too difficult to master, asked for a loaf of ‘ammy-dammy bread,’ by which it was known ever after.” The above recipe was also provided, allegedly, “the way the originator made it.”
This origin tale seems to reflect what was previously provided in the Dialect Notes, Volume IV, Part III (1915), especially the mention of the Old Salem Tavern. It also reflected some of what was provided in the Buffalo Evening News (NY), November 6, 1906, especially concerning epidemic bread and ammy-dammy bread. The recipe is also the same as provided in the Buffalo Evening News, which omitted corn meal, considered an essential ingredient in Anadama bread.
Five years later, the Morning Union (MA), November 22, 1929, published an article on Thanksgiving Cookery. It was noted that many of the recipes were acquired from the Native Americans, including “ammy-dammy bread” It continued, “Then there was ammy-dammy bread, the basis of which was yellow cornmeal. The following recipe is taken out of an old kitchen scrapbook, one that has been well thumbed by many generations of cooks. One half cup of yellow cornmeal; one half cup of molasses; one tablespoon of lard: one teaspoon of salt, and two cups of boiling water. After the mixture has become lukewarm add one yeast cake dissolved in a half cup of water. Now mix in sufficient bread flour—in Colonial days this flour was the home-milled product—to make a stiff dough. Let it rise overnight. In the morning stir down and divided into four baking pans. Again it should be allowed to rise, and then into the oven for 45 minutes baking.
This supports the prior claim that Anadama bread reaches back to Colonial times, and originated with the Native Americans. This article would be reprinted over the next several years in other newspapers in New England.
During the later 1930s, another origin tale arose, one which has become very prominent, although often slightly revised, in the legends of the origins of Anadama bread, probably because the story seems more interesting. The Centre Daily Times (PA), July 8, 1937, claimed the recipe for Anadama bread was over 200 years old, having originated with the Puritans. It was alleged that a man had a lazy wife, named Anna, who predominantly fed him plates of mush. One day, tired with all of that simple mush, the man decided to mix the mush with other ingredients, baking it into a loaf. He allegedly commented that he had to cook “because my Anna, dam ‘er, won’t.” Thus, his load eventually became known as "Annadammer" and then later it was shortened to "Anadama."
Later articles would repeat a similar tale of a man and his lazy wife, Anna, although the time period would be later, the man might be a fisherman, and the location would be Gloucester or Rockport. It's a fanciful tale, which likely has no reflection of reality, but people like a good story, even if it isn't true.
The article also provided a recipe for “Annadama Bread," which is pictured above.
The Rutland Daily Herald (VT), August 10, 1948, published another version of the origins of Annadama bread. It claimed that a Cape Ann fisherman had a lazy wife who often didn't prepare anything for dinner. One day, the man tried to create something from mush and molasses, creating a tasty bread. He continued to make this bread, sometimes giving it to his neighbors. A neighbor asked him the name of the bread and the man decided to name it after his wife, "Anna, damn her."
The Freeport Facts (ME), June 2, 1953, published a recipe for Ammydammy bread, and it stated the real name was Anadama Bread. It was also claimed that this bread “... was first turned out by the Blacksmith Shop Pastries in Rockport, Mass.” This is the first mention of this bakery being involved in the story of Anadama bread. However, the evidence shows Anadama bread couldn't have originated at the Blacksmith Shop, which didn't exist until the 1940s.
In the 1940s, William and Melissa Smith owned a restaurant in Rockport called The Blacksmith Shop. At some point, they opened a small bakery to supply their restaurant with bread, including (and maybe solely) Anadama bread. In 1954, they formed Anadama Bread, Inc., and established a new, larger bakery in 1956. In 1964, they also formed a subsidiary, Anadama Mixes, Inc. The Smiths would apply for a trademark for "Anadama", claiming that the first use of the term was in 1850, and that the first commercial use was on July 1, 1876, although no specifics were provided. However, both corporations were involuntary dissolved in October 1983.
The origins of Anadama bread remain murky, but some clarity has arisen, especially pushing the date of the oldest known printed reference. From an advertisement in a Rockport directory of 1888-1889, the King Street Bakery, owned by Eben Knowlton, was noted as producing Amidama bread. Eben had been a baker since 1848, and is a potential candidate for being the inventor of Anadama bread. More research into the King Street bakery and Eben Knowlton could uncover older references to Amidama bread.
What is your favorite bakery to get Anadama Bread?
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