Showing posts with label Bakery. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bakery. Show all posts

Monday, December 15, 2025

2025: Favorite Food-Related Items

What were some of my favorite food-related items of the past year?

Let me continue my lists of my best recommendations and favorite restaurants and food items of 2025, addressing my Favorite Food-Related Items. This is certainly not a complete list but it's more a sampling of memorable food items I've experienced and/or posted about over the past year. This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more food-related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Favorite Culinary School:
 NECAT is a local culinary school which trains people from challenging backgrounds, from ex-convicts to recovering addicts, from the homeless to the chronically unemployed. NECAT fills an important need for culinary help while helping numerous people achieve a better life. It is such a worthy school, helping to transform lives, and it really touches my heart. It helps individuals while also helping the community, and I continue, year after year, to try to raise awareness of NECAT so that its good work can continue and even expand. It's one of my favorite causes and is well worthy of your continued support.

Favorite Overall Bakery: This is a very tough category, as there are a number of worthy candidates, so besides this Favorite, I've had to add some Runner-Ups as well. My Favorite is Lulu's Bakery & Pantry, in Salem, which offers a wide variety of sweet and savory treats, including a number with a West Virginia connection. The owners, Nikki & Jim, have excellent culinary resumes, and evidence the passion I seek. Pepperoni rolls, corn bread, biscuits, chocolates, cupcakes, muffins, sandwiches, and so much more. Their large Whoopie Pies are some of the best I've ever eaten, with almost a chewy brownie-like cookie filled with a sweet, creamy filling. Any time I visit the Salem area, I try to stop here to pick up something to take home. 

Runner-Up Overall Bakery
: Quebrada Bakery, with four locations including one in Arlington where I most often patronize, has my favorite Snickerdoodles cookies anywhere. You can even buy the frozen cookie dough to easily cook the Snickerdoodles at home. They have plenty of other delicious baked goods, from croissants to pecan rolls. Their Whoopie Pies are also excellent, with a soft chocolate cake sandwiching a very creamy filling. 

Runner-Up Overall Bakery
: Sandpiper Bakery in Ipswich is another killer bakery. Their small Whoopie Pies are delicious, but they don't carry them on a regular basis. Their Croissants are superb, buttery and flaky, and I especially love the Ham & Cheese croissants. They have plenty of other fresh and delicious baked goods, from Scones to Banana Bread. The bakery is a bit hidden, but is well worth seeking out. 

Runner-Up Overall Bakery
: New to me, Eva's Little Kitchen, with locations in Bedford and West Concord, was impressive. A wide range of excellent baked goods, from the Shakshuka Breakfast Danish to their Banana Bread. I need to return again soon to check out some of their other baked goods as well as their Sandwiches.  

Favorite Greek Bakery
: Greek Habits by Eva, with locations in Arlington and Peabody, is an impressive spot. Their Handmade Greek Pies, such as Ham & Cheese and Spinach, have a tasty flaky crust, and plenty of fillings. The warm Bougatsa, a Greek custard pie (pictured above), is amazing! They also sell a variety of pastries, many Greek, but also other interesting ones, including plenty of chocolate treats. In addition, they have a number of appealing sandwiches, such as Bifteki, Smoked Salmon, and Caprese

Favorite New Hampshire Bakery
: Agape Cakes and Confections, in Raymond, New Hampshire, is a bakery with Greek influences. They make excellent Greek pies, such as Ham & Cheese and Feta, and desserts like Baklava and Galaktoboureko. They make plenty of other tasty baked goods as well, such as Chocolate Banana Cookies, Cinnamon Rolls, Whoopie Pies, Pop Tarts, and much more. If you're in the area, this is a must stop destination. 

Favorite Donut Shop
: Donuts With A Difference, in Medford, is an old-school donut shop that still makes their donuts in-house. They make more traditional donuts, and not the fancy ones available at some of the other donut shops. Their donuts are fresh and delicious, and frequently even still warm when you receive them. They are also very inexpensive, roughly half the price of many other donut shops. I especially love their Coffee Rolls

Favorite Cider Donuts
: For me, the best Cider Donuts are found at Russell Orchards in Ipswich. They don't need a sugary coating, and impress with the fullness of their apple flavor. They are lighter than the more cakey cider donuts found at many other places. Their donuts are soft and moist, with a slightly crusty exterior, and the right balance of apple and spice flavors. Each bite is pure pleasure. And when they are warm or even hot, it's hard not to eat several on your way from the cash register to your car.  

Favorite Cream Pies
: Nancy's Marshview Cafe & Bakery, in Salisbury, serves Breakfast and Lunch, and also has a Bakery. At the Bakery, you can find tasty donuts, cookies, turnovers, cupcakes, eclairs, and more. However, I'm most impressed with their Cream Pies, such as their Coconut Cream Pie pictured above. Reasonably priced, the amply-sized cream pies have plenty of delicious fillings, and are topped with a creamy and sweet whipped cream. 

Runner-Up Favorite Cream Pies
: The Agawam Diner, in Rowley, also makes delicious, and quite large, Cream Pies, including Coconut, Banana, and Chocolate. They are pricier than the ones at Nancy's Marshview Cafe, but you won't go wrong with their taste. They also make a lengthy list of other types of pies, from Apple to Strawberry Rhubarb, Pecan to Custard. 

Favorite Seafood Market
: The Ipswich Shellfish Fish Market, which is only open on Fridays and Saturdays, is an excellent spot for seafood, both fresh and frozen. The fresh fish looks great, is reasonably priced, and tastes delicious. They have a good variety of seafood, all dependent on what's seasonally available. Their frozen seafood is also very good, such as their Swordfish steaks and Shrimp. Plus, their home-made corn bread is delicious! It's become a regular stop for me, and have always enjoyed everything I've bought. As I've said many times, you need to Eat More Seafood, and this is a great place to buy your fish.

Favorite Seafood Dinner:
 The Seafood didn't get any fresher than at a Bluefin Tuna dinner at Tonno in Wakefield. Chef/Owner Anthony Caturano butchered a large Bluefin Tuna in front of everyone, and then the tuna was prepared in various ways for our dining pleasure, from Tuna Tartare to Grilled Tuna Steak. The butchery demo was fascinating and the tuna dishes were amazing. It would be great to see more chefs do something similar, combining a butchery demo (whether seafood or some other protein) with a multi-course dinner. 

Favorite Japanese Food Market: Maruichi (with locations in Arlington, Brookline and Connecticut) is an excellent Japanese grocery store, and I usually go to their Arlington location. It offers a diverse selection of Japanese foods, fresh and frozen, as well as plenty of fresh vegetables, including some Asian varieties. Their meat selection is compelling and they have a superb selection of sushi-grade fish. You can get sushi meals, onigiri, and other dishes made in-house. Plus, there's a wide range of Japanese foods, from tea to sauces, candy to chips, breads and pastries, and much more. And their prices are generally very reasonable. 

Favorite New Spot For Lunch
: This year, Karma Asian Fusion, in Winchester, started serving two multi-course Lunch Specials, including a Chinese Wok lunch ($22, with several different entree options) and a Sushi lunch ($28). You receive an ample portion of delicious and well-prepared food, all at a very reasonable price considering the quality and quantity. And their Sushi is amazing! Plus, they offer some reasonably priced and tasty appetizers as well, from Salmon Carpaccio to Crispy Wonton

Favorite Poutine
: New this year, the Skinny Pancake opened in Peabody, a creperie which began in Vermont. They serve breakfast all day, and besides crepes, also offer burgers, burritos, salads, and more. One of their sides is Poutine, crispy French fries topped with Vermont Cheese Curds and Screamin' Ridge Farm Gravy. All of the elements are excellent, from the crisp fries (which hold up with to the gravy), the squeaky curds, and the flavorful gravy. You can also order the Poutine with a vegan vegetable gravy.

Favorite Pizza:
 The most impressive pizza I enjoyed this past year was the Roasted Garlic White Pizza at Posto, at Assembly Row in Somerville. They used to be in Davis Square but moved to Assembly Row this year. The pizza was made with bacon, mozzarella, roasted garlic, parmesan, oregano, and aleppo pepper. I've never seen more garlic on a pizza, large and plump cloves of roasted garlic. The thin-crusted pizza also had a nice char, and the crust was also both crisp and chewy. Superb! 

Favorite Sandwich
: Anthony's Italian Specialties, in Stoneham, has long made some of my favorite sandwiches, which are always over-large and filled with quality ingredients. They are famous for their Italian Sandwiches, but they make plenty of other excellent sandwiches, from Pastrami to Chicken Parmigiana. And their sandwiches, which come in several different sizes, are reasonably priced. My current favorite is their Chicken Cutlet with Prosciutto & Fresh Mozzarella, topped by oil, seasonings and balsamic glaze. The above is on their braided roll, and you can see that it's large enough to feed two people, or one very hungry person. Such a delicious combination of flavors and textures. 

Favorite Unusual Meat: This year, I purchased some ground camel at Savenor's Butchery in Cambridge. I made some camel burgers with the meat, adding only some Berbere spices (an Ethiopian spice blend). The burger tasted much like a beef burger, and you probably wouldn't have tasted any difference, but the camel is lower in fat and cholesterol than beef. Many people might be wary of eating ground camel, but if they tasted it, they would have liked it, and wouldn't have tasted anything objectionable. And it's better for your health. 

Favorite Farm Stand: Tendercrop Farm
, with locations in Wenham, Newbury and Dover, New Hampshire, has it all, from fresh produce to a bakery, a butcher shop to frozen foods. Their butcher shop, which uses animals they raise on their own farm, has delicious, tender and flavorful meats, from Filet Mignon to Boneless Pork Chops, as well as a variety of marinated meats. Prices are very reasonable, less than many other butcher shops in the area. They also carry a large assortment of fruits and vegetables, many locally grown. Whenever I'm in the area, I stop by the farm to stock up, and am never disappointed. 

Favorite Food & Drink Shopping Itinerary: This year, I posted an itinerary for a food & drink Road Trip to Ipswich and the surrounding towns and cities. The itinerary has about 14 locations for food & drink shopping and dining, from the Clam Box to the Sandpiper Bakery. And it will be updated in the near future, adding even more locations. On numerous Fridays this past year, I've visited the spots on this itinerary, often hitting 10 or more of them in a single day. I probably will create more Road Trips in 2026. 

Food History Articles: During the pandemic, it was tough for many food and drink writers, as restaurants were closed and large scale food and drink events were canceled. Some writers simply wrote sporadically. However, for myself, I've devoted many hours to researching and writing numerous historical food articles, combing through thousands of newspapers and books. I've especially delved into the origins of numerous foods, trying to seek out their true origins, and not just accepting the unsubstantiated claims of others. I've continued to do so, finding great joy in the research and discoveries that I've found. Here are the historical food articles I completed this past year. 

Favorite Old Tradition (Which Needs a Revival)
: In 2022, while researching some other items, I stumbled upon a fascinating old Thanksgiving tradition, having donuts on your Thanksgiving table! This tradition extends back at least to the 1830s, and probably to the start of the 19th century. It apparently started in New England, but expanded across the entire country, even to Hawaii. Sometime in the later 1940s or early 1950s, the tradition largely died off, and the reasons are obscure. It's time to revive this tradition! For every Thanksgiving since my article, I've been having donuts as part of my Thanksgiving table and have been encouraging others to do the same, some who have also adopted this tradition. This year, I expanded my original article, adding even more fascinating information. Hopefully in 2026, even more people will embrace this old tradition. Who wouldn't love donuts on Thanksgiving? 

Unfortunate Restaurant News: Tambo 22, a Peruvian-Italian restaurant in Chelsea, will be closing its doors on December 20, 2024. They have stated, "The past few years have challenged the entire restaurant world. The pressure of rising costs, staffing obstacles, and the realities of our location made this one of the hardest decisions we’ve ever had to make." Chef Jose Duarte, Taylor & Brian Corcoran, and the rest of their team created an excellent restaurant, with a unique and delicious cuisine, and they should be very proud of their accomplishments. I've known Chef Duarte for 15 years, and he's one of the nicest and most talented chefs in the industry, passionate and compassionate. It will be a great loss to the local restaurant industry when this restaurant is gone. I wish them all the best of luck in the future and hope they will return soon with another culinary endeavor.

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What were some of your favorite food-related items this year?

Wednesday, December 3, 2025

Origins of Anadama Bread, a New England Classic

Are you a fan of Anadama bread?

Anadama bread (also known as amadama, amidama, ammy dammy, annadama, and yami-dami) is a New England specialty, a loaf bread primarily made with cornmeal, molasses and white flour, although it sometimes is also made with rye flour. With a darker color, it commonly has a nutty, sweet taste and a soft texture. It's not as commonly available nowadays as it once was, but you can still find it at some local bakeries, or you can make it yourself at home.

Its origins are murky, with several different stories about its creation, which generally lack any supporting evidence. For example, some sources claim the bread originated with the Native Americans, and their recipe was eventually adopted by the Puritans. Others claim the bread was created in the late 19th century, maybe in Gloucester or Rockport. There's also a fanciful tale of how the bread acquired its name, involving a lazy wife and her husband who ends up baking the bread. 

I'll provide some documentary evidence to try to better understand the true origins of Anadama bread, including what may be the oldest documented reference to the bread, which isn't included in any of the other articles about its origins which I have seen.  

Some sources claim that the earliest printed reference to Anadama bread (in any of its spellings) was in 1915, in a book, Dialect Notes. However, other sources indicate an earlier reference, a cookbook known as Reliable Receipts For the House Wife. The first edition of this book is from 1888, but that edition doesn't appear readily available, so it's difficult to know for a surety that it actually included a recipe for Anadama. And I have yet to seen any evidence to prove the 1888 edition included that recipe. However, we can be sure that the 3rd edition, published in 1900, does have such a recipe. 

Anadama bread is sometimes thought to have been inspired by brown bread. One type of Colonial brown bread was called "Rye-n'-injun," as it was made with a mixture of rye and corn meal (Indian meal), and sometimes sweetened with molasses. However, the bread was commonly steamed, as many lacked ovens to bake their bread. Later recipes for Anadama bread sometimes used a combination of rye, corn meal, and molasses, while other recipes omitted the rye or even the corn meal. 

My own research found an even older reference to those commonly put forth for Anadama, to one of its alternative spellings, "Amidama" bread. The Resident and Business Directory of Rockport, Mass. (1888-1889), provided a brief advertisement for the King Street Bakery, located at 12 King Street. The ad stated they were “Bakers of Soft Bread, Cake, Pastry and the Celebrated ‘Amidama’ Bread.” This indicates that Amidama bread was already well known at that point. It's interesting that this ad did not specifically indicate whether the bakery invented this type of bread or not. We also don't know how long this bakery has been making Amidama bread, and it's difficult to find any older Rockport directories online. 

More information about this bakery was provided in Bakers and Baking in Massachusetts (1909) by Arthur W. Brayley, noted that Eben Knowlton established a bakery in Rockport in 1848, although the name of the bakery wasn't provided. So, it's unsure whether Eben started King Street Bakery in 1848 or not. One of his sons, Benjamin H. Knowlton, was born on December 6, 1863, and eventually worked at his father's bakery. When Eben died in 1903, Benjamin became the owner, and it was said that his specialty was Amadama Bread (the first use of this other name for this bread). Unfortunately, Benjamin passed away in 1912. It's possible that Eben was the inventor of Amidama bread.  

Let's return to the Reliable Receipts For the House Wife (3rd edition, 1900), which was contributed by the Ladies of the First Baptist Church, Gloucester, MA. This edition is the only one available online, so we can't say for a surety that earlier editions included the recipe. Above is a picture of their recipe for Amidama bread, aka Johnston’s Brick Loaf, in the 3rd edition. It's possible that Amidama might be the first name for this type of bread, preceding its later name as Anadama bread. 

Some sources theorize, based on this reference, that Anadama bread originated at Johnston's bakery in Gloucester during the 1880s. However, when I checked the Resident and Business Directories of Gloucester during the 1880s, I didn't find any reference to Amidama bread or a bakery owned by a Johnston. It seems doubtful that a Johnston bakery existed in Gloucester during the 1880s.  

An intriguing article appeared in the Buffalo Evening News (NY), November 6, 1906, which referenced a prior article in the Boston Transcript. It included a couple new names for Anadama bread: the "epidemic bread" and "ammy dammy bread." The article was titled, Epidemic Bread, and it stated, “Some sixty years ago, says the Boston Transcript, the bread mentioned was by a skilled baker at Gloucester. This is the traditional receipt (sic), then a secret. I have good reason to believe it accurate. One cup rye meal, one-half cup molasses, one-half cup yeast, one pint lukewarm water, salt. Thicken with white flour is stiff as can be stirred with a spoon. The bread became famous. Summer boarders, mostly from Boston in those days, were known to plan its after use at the home table. From its great popularity it was humorously called ‘the epidemic bread.’ A little miss, unskilled in words, sent to the bakershop for a loaf, said, ‘Mother wants some of that ammy dammy bread.’ And it was known by this name ever after.” 

This article would seem to indicate Anadama bread originated in the late 1840s in Gloucester. However, there is a significant problem with the recipe that was provided in this article as it omitted corn meal, aka Indian meal, an essential ingredient for Anadama bread. The article also appeared to include the first written references to "epidemic bread" and "ammy dammy bread." If the bread had been previously so popular, you would have expected at least the term epidemic bread to have been printed earlier. 

The Dialect Notes, Volume IV, Part III (1915) included a section on “Colonial Cookery Terms,” which were "taken from old recipes preserved in the family of Miss Rogers or collected by her for use in the Chimney Corner Inn, the home of Deacon John Cooper, built in Cambridge in 1657, and now in possession of the Society for the Preservation of New England Antiquities.” One of the terms was “Ammy Dammy bread. A kind of loaf bread. Recipe from Old Salem Tavern.” This would seem to indicate that the origins of Anadama bread reached back to Colonial times. 

The cookbook, More Recipes For Fifty (1918) by Frances Lowe Smith, provided the recipe for "Yami-Dami Bread." This is another term for Anadama bread, and the first written reference for it. 

During the 1920s, a number of newspapers discussed the possible origins for Anadama bread, offering at least three different versions. It seems no one could agree on its true origins. 

The Bridgeport Times (CT), January 4, 1922, noted, “Amadama bread was first originated in Gloucester, Mass. by a Mrs. John S. Johnston who had a ‘bakehouse’ there in our forefathers’ time." She later gave the recipe to the Ladies of the First Baptist Church who published it in their ‘Reliable Cook Book.’ The article also stated that it was almost impossible to explain origin of name Amadama. 

The article continued, “... when Mrs. Johnston first introduced the bread housewives clamored for it and it became most popular. For this reason Mrs. Johnston called it ‘Epidemic Bread,’ which name was mispronounced by an ignorant maid in one customer’s home, who called it ‘amadama.” This later point seems to run contrary to the recipe provided in the Reliable Cook Book, where it was referred to as Johnston’s Brick Loaf (or Amidama Bread). 


Two years later, The Country Gentleman: For the American Farmer and His Family (May 3, 1924), discussed "Ammy-dammy Bread." The article stated, “In the days when the stagecoach was the only means of transportation between the towns, there was a tavern on the road from Salem to Boston that made and sold a certain kind of bread. It became so popular that one traveller told another and people even sent from the city for a loaf of what they called from its (word unknown) ‘Epidemic Bread.’ One day a little girl being sent for some, and finding the name too difficult to master, asked for a loaf of ‘ammy-dammy bread,’ by which it was known ever after.” The above recipe was also provided, allegedly, “the way the originator made it.”

This origin tale seems to reflect what was previously provided in the Dialect Notes, Volume IV, Part III (1915), especially the mention of the Old Salem Tavern. It also reflected some of what was provided in the Buffalo Evening News (NY), November 6, 1906, especially concerning epidemic bread and ammy-dammy bread. The recipe is also the same as provided in the Buffalo Evening News, which omitted corn meal, considered an essential ingredient in Anadama bread.

Five years later, the Morning Union (MA), November 22, 1929, published an article on Thanksgiving Cookery. It was noted that many of the recipes were acquired from the Native Americans, including “ammy-dammy bread” It continued, “Then there was ammy-dammy bread, the basis of which was yellow cornmeal. The following recipe is taken out of an old kitchen scrapbook, one that has been well thumbed by many generations of cooks. One half cup of yellow cornmeal; one half cup of molasses; one tablespoon of lard: one teaspoon of salt, and two cups of boiling water. After the mixture has become lukewarm add one yeast cake dissolved in a half cup of water. Now mix in sufficient bread flour—in Colonial days this flour was the home-milled product—to make a stiff dough. Let it rise overnight. In the morning stir down and divided into four baking pans. Again it should be allowed to rise, and then into the oven for 45 minutes baking.

This supports the prior claim that Anadama bread reaches back to Colonial times, and originated with the Native Americans. This article would be reprinted over the next several years in other newspapers in New England.

During the later 1930s, another origin tale arose, one which has become very prominent, although often slightly revised, in the legends of the origins of Anadama bread, probably because the story seems more interesting. The Centre Daily Times (PA), July 8, 1937, claimed the recipe for Anadama bread was over 200 years old, having originated with the Puritans. It was alleged that a man had a lazy wife, named Anna, who predominantly fed him plates of mush. One day, tired with all of that simple mush, the man decided to mix the mush with other ingredients, baking it into a loaf. He allegedly commented that he had to cook “because my Anna, dam ‘er, won’t.” Thus, his load eventually became known as "Annadammer" and then later it was shortened to "Anadama."

Later articles would repeat a similar tale of a man and his lazy wife, Anna, although the time period would be later, the man might be a fisherman, and the location would be Gloucester or Rockport. It's a fanciful tale, which likely has no reflection of reality, but people like a good story, even if it isn't true. 

The New England Yankee Cook Book: An Anthology of Incomparable Recipes from the Six New England States (1939) by Imogene B. Wolcott,  repeated the tale that a man, who was a fisherman, had a lazy wife, had to do his own cooking, and named one of his creation after his wife, “Anna, damn her.” It was also noted that "This is an old Concord, Mass., recipe." A recipe (pictured above) was included, although its source was a woman from Manchester, New Hampshire. 

The Bangor Daily Commercial (ME), October 16, 1940, had previously attributed the creation of Anadama bread to Concord, Massachusetts, likely basing it on information from the New England Yankee Cook Book. However, some readers claimed the newspaper was wrong, and that the bread was actually created in Rockport. A reader stated, “... the recipe was original with a Mrs. Knowlton of Rockport, Mass., and was kept a family secret for several years. I bought it frequently fifty years ago from their bakery." This connects to the prior reference of King Street Bakery, in Rockport, owned by Eben and Benjamin Knowlton, although that reference didn't mention a Mrs. Knowlton.  

The article also provided a recipe for “Annadama Bread," which is pictured above.

The Rutland Daily Herald (VT), August 10, 1948, published another version of the origins of Annadama bread. It claimed that a Cape Ann fisherman had a lazy wife who often didn't prepare anything for dinner. One day, the man tried to create something from mush and molasses, creating a tasty bread. He continued to make this bread, sometimes giving it to his neighbors. A neighbor asked him the name of the bread and the man decided to name it after his wife, "Anna, damn her.

The Freeport Facts (ME), June 2, 1953, published a recipe for Ammydammy bread, and it stated the real name was Anadama Bread. It was also claimed that this bread  “... was first turned out by the Blacksmith Shop Pastries in Rockport, Mass.” This is the first mention of this bakery being involved in the story of Anadama bread. However, the evidence shows Anadama bread couldn't have originated at the Blacksmith Shop, which didn't exist until the 1940s.

In the 1940s, William and Melissa Smith owned a restaurant in Rockport called The Blacksmith Shop. At some point, they opened a small bakery to supply their restaurant with bread, including (and maybe solely) Anadama bread. In 1954, they formed Anadama Bread, Inc., and established a new, larger bakery in 1956. In 1964, they also formed a subsidiary, Anadama Mixes, Inc. The Smiths would apply for a trademark for "Anadama", claiming that the first use of the term was in 1850, and that the first commercial use was on July 1, 1876, although no specifics were provided. However, both corporations were involuntary dissolved in October 1983.

The origins of Anadama bread remain murky, but some clarity has arisen, especially pushing the date of the oldest known printed reference. From an advertisement in a Rockport directory of 1888-1889, the King Street Bakery, owned by Eben Knowlton, was noted as producing Amidama bread. Eben had been a baker since 1848, and is a potential candidate for being the inventor of Anadama bread. More research into the King Street bakery and Eben Knowlton could uncover older references to Amidama bread. 

What is your favorite bakery to get Anadama Bread?

Friday, October 17, 2025

Bringing Back a 200 Year-Old Thanksgiving Tradition: Doughnuts

Think about all the delicious, traditional dishes on your Thanksgiving table. The roast turkey, cranberry sauce, sweet potatoes, gravy, stuffing, pumpkin pie, mincemeat pie, and more. However, there's probably an item, with over 200 years of tradition, that isn't on your Thanksgiving table. And it's time to bring back that tradition, making your Thanksgiving feast even tastier.

The Doughnut.

The tradition of Thanksgiving doughnuts potentially extends back to the late 18th century, around 1798 (and maybe even earlier), although newspaper references didn't start mentioning the tradition until the 1830s. Those references continued until into the 1950s, when it soon after largely seemed to die out for unknown reasons. 

We need to revive this tradition, to bring the beloved doughnut back to the Thanksgiving table. I'm sure plenty of people would embrace this tradition, and revel in the delectable taste of a doughnut with their turkey dinner. There's no reason this tradition should die out, when it's so easy to bring it back. If tradition is at all important to you, then why not embrace this one?

So, start making your plans now, whether you decide to make your own doughnuts at home or purchase them from your favorite doughnut shop. Hopefully, local doughnut shops will get behind the revival of this tradition as well, creating special flavored doughnuts for the holiday. However, many doughnut shops appear to be closed on Thanksgiving, so you may need to purchase them the day before. Making them at home might be your best option for getting the freshest doughnut.

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The ancestor of the doughnuts is the olykoek ("oily cake"), which was brought to New York by Dutch settlers around the 17th century. It was more like a cruller in shape, and lacked a hole like the doughnuts of today. The term "doughnut" seemed to come into use around the start of the 19th century, and there wouldn't be holes in doughnuts until the mid-1800s, allegedly as early as 1847, but definitely by the early 1860s. 

One of the first mentions of the term "dough nuts" was in a cookbook, The Frugal Housewife or Complete Woman Cook (1803) by Sussannah Carter. It provided probably the first printed recipe for dough nuts, and the shape of it was up to the cook. 

In the U.S., one of the first newspapers to use the term "doughnuts" was the Vermont Republican (VT), September 25, 1809, which stated, "Go my dear and put the big spider on the fire, and we'll have some doughnuts for supper."

A number of sources allege that the term "donut" first appeared in print in 1900, but that is erroneous, and it actually made its first appearance at least as far back as 1856. The Boston Post (MA), May 19, 1856, mentioned the sign outside a rural grocery store that stated, "Hot cofey tee ginger and spruce bear pies donuts piled Egs pigs fete..." The Wheeling Daily Intelligencer (WV), October 2, 1857, printed an article that noted, "Donuts, krullers, and ice cream sirkilated throo the crowd, and was libbrally encurridged; the donuts bein useful as spunges to absawb the surplis lickquid in the stummick,..." And during the rest of the decade, and into the 1860s, the term "donuts" continued to be used. 

When and how did the doughnut acquire its hole? The earliest doughnuts lacked a hole, but the most commonly told origin tale of the hole is that it was created by Captain Hanson Crockett Gregory, of Portland Maine, in 1847, when he worked on a ship as a cook. However, multiple stories of why he created the hole exist, and there are even stories attributing the hole to his mother, Elizabeth. There is a lack of supporting evidence for Gregory's claim, which only came to light in 1916, about 70 years after its alleged creation.  

In 1916, Captain Gregory was a resident of the Sailors' Snug Harbor, of Quincy, Massachusetts (a retirement home for sailors), and was interviewed about doughnuts. He was mentioned in numerous newspaper articles at this time, many simply repeating the same article. However, some of the articles differed, even offering different facts. For example, his age was variously given from 81-85 years old. One article though, quoting Gregory, stated he had been born in November 1831, and invented the doughnut hole in 1947, when he was 16 years old, working as a cook on a ship. 

Gregory's tale was that he found that the usual square or diamond-shaped doughnuts often did not cook in the middle. So, he decided to use a biscuit cutter, making a hole in the doughnut, so they would cook properly. Later, he prepared the doughnuts for his family and friends, and the idea spread quickly from there. 

Why did he wait so long to come forward and claim to be the inventor of the doughnut hole? How good was his memory of an incident that occurred nearly 70 years before? Why isn't there any supporting evidence? 

The earliest newspaper reference to a doughnut with a hole is from May, 1861 in an article, titled The Grand Dough-Nut Demonstration, in the Bangor Daily Evening Times, May 30, 1861. The article noted, "The display of dough-nuts beggared description. There was the molasses dough-nut and the sugar dough-nut--the long dough-nut and the short dough-nut--the round dough-nut and the square dough-nut--the rectangular dough-nut and the triangular dough-nut--the single twisted dough-nut and the double twisted dough-nut--the 'light riz' dough-nut and hard kneaded dough-nut--the straight solid dough-nut, and the circular dough-nut, with a hole in the centre. There were dough-nuts of all imaginable kinds, qualities, shapes and dimensions." So, we can see, at this point, that doughnuts with a hole were but one type of doughnut that existed. 

Let's delve into the fascinating history of the tradition of the Thanksgiving doughnut, which may extend back over 200 years. 

We begin with an article in The Springfield Daily Republican (MA), November 25, 1888, which discussed a Thanksgiving feast that occurred approximately 90 years before. The writer's grandfather told him about the feast, and it included doughnuts. "The doughnuts were never forgotten, real old fashioned Thanksgiving donuts, rolled out in a round, just as big as a plate, cut in the middle into strips, twisted and then fried, just so." This meant that the tradition of Thanksgiving donuts may extend back to the late 18th century, to around 1798. 

The first newspaper reference I found to this tradition was the Daily Evening Advertiser (ME), November 17, 1834, which stated: “The Journeymen Printers from New England in the city of New York, have agreed to celebrate the forthcoming Thanksgiving in true Yankee style. Roast turkies, pumpkin pies, molasses gingerbread, dough-nuts, and all the etceteras of this well known Yankee holiday, are to crown the festive board.” 

This indicates that doughnuts were part of the "Yankee" tradition of Thanksgiving, although it doesn't state how long that tradition had been in place. We don't know how or why the tradition started, but this brief article didn't make it seem this was an oddity. It seemed only natural to enjoy doughnuts on Thanksgiving, just as natural as enjoying pumpkin pie.    

The Tennessean (TN), September 24, 1836, in an article on Thanksgiving, discussed a woman, preparing for the holiday the day before. "So the day afore thanksgivin' she called me into the tether room, that marm Peabody christened the parlor, to see what a lot o' pies and cakes and sausage meat and dough-nuts, she'd got made up, and charge me not to lay the weight on my finger upon one of 'em."

In a more local mention, The Baltimore Sun (MD), December 4, 1838, printed, “The Boston Times, describing Thanksgiving day, says ‘All is joy and cider, frolic and fried dough-nuts. Where were the pumpkin pies?”

There was another brief reference to the New England Thanksgiving tradition and doughnuts noted in the Rutland Weekly Herald (VT), October 15, 1839. The newspaper also stated that in Manhattan, doughnuts were called “Crawlers,” like a precursor to the word "Cruller." 

In the Baltimore Clipper (MD), November 13, 1839, it mentioned, "Life does not consist in merely breathing, as the Yankee said when he sat down to his thanksgiving dinner--and the way he swallowed the doughnuts and molasses gingerbread was a mercy to the turkies and other sweetmeats.

In another local mention, a more poetic note, the Richmond Dispatch (VA), November 25, 1852, stated: “The Boston Post commemorates a thanksgiving raphsody (sic) as follows, “Yes, ye trencher-men, rejoice and be exceeding glad, for thanksgiving is nigh at hand. Let the good house wife bake up a goodly number of pumpkin pies, fix up the chicken fixens, and get their nice cakes and doughnuts ready---for thanksgiving is coming right along.”

There was another Thanksgiving poem in the Hillsdale Standard (MI), November 22, 1853. which stated: “Hark! The Turkies’ plaintive cries! Puddings rare, and pumpkin pies, Chickens fat and doughnuts round,..” This poem would be repeated in other newspapers through at least 1855. Doughnuts were definitely considered a Thanksgiving tradition. 

The Amherst Collegiate Magazine, conducted by the Students of Amherst College (Massachusetts, 1853), published an article state noted, "Thanksgiving at home--what a medley of good things are suggested by the words! What visions arise of puddings plum and plump, of swollen cakes and plethoric pies, of cranberries, apples, doughnuts, walnuts;.."

In My Sister Margaret: A Temperance Story by Mrs. C.M. Edwards (New York, 1859) there was a discussion of a Thanksgiving dinner, mentioning, "Loaves of cake and pots of doughnuts stood side by side; a large turkey was roasting before the kitchen fire,..."

There were a number of brief mentions of doughnuts and Thanksgiving dinners in the Cleveland Daily Leader (OH), December 2, 1861, Orange County Telegraph (VT), December 12, 1862, and the Pittson Gazette (PA), November 24, 1864. The Daily Missouri Democrat (MO), November 22, 1864, mentioned a call for 50,000 "old fashioned Thanksgiving doughnuts" to feed the soldiers who were at war. The tradition of Thanksgiving doughnuts had spread from New England, to make its way across the country. 

There were others brief mentions in the Rock Island Argus (IL), November 26, 1870, Guard of Honor Monthly (NY), December 1, 1872, Daily Kansas Tribune (KS), November 20, 1873, the Richmond Palladium (IN), November 25, 1874, the Champaign County Gazette (IL), November 27, 1878, and the Down Times (KS), November 20, 1890.  

In Our Young Folks: An Illustrated Magazine for Boys and Girls, edited by J.T. Trowbridge and Lucy Larcom (Boston, November 1870), there was The Soldier's Family--An Opera For Children, which had a discussion of Thanksgiving, and some of the treats served for that holiday, including "Doughnuts and apples and walnuts all cracked!" In a later passage, it was mentioned the doughnuts were fried.

The Vermont Gazette (VT), November 18, 1871, mentioned: “Thanksgiving occurs a fortnight from last Thursday. Get ready your turkies, cranberries, doughnuts, pumpkin pies and sich.” And the Richmond Weekly Palladium (IN), November 25, 1874, published an advertisement offering “Thanksgiving doughnuts at the Quaker City Bakery.” The Kansas City Times (MO), November 27, 1879, had a snippet, "And those mince pies--those mince pies--and then Thanksgiving doughnuts!--O, how Mother used to make them!" The Clinton Advocate (MO), November 26, 1885, offered a Thanksgiving poem, with a line stating: “Round the platter of doughnuts and pumpkin pies;” 

The Nashville Banner (TN), November 17, 1891, had a brief advertisement for a "Children's Store" which offered "Thanksgiving candies, pies, cakes and doughnuts."  The Miami Herald (FL), November 26, 1891, discussed a woman who was going to her New England home for Thanksgiving, and she looked for to assisting her mom, "Doughnuts were to be fried, pumpkin pies baked, the turkeys to be prepared, the one for boiling with its dressing and sauce of oysters, the other suitably stuffed to be roasted and eaten with its accompanying cranberries;..." The Indianapolis Times (IN), November 28, 1891, talked about the meeting of an art group where, "Talking, smoking and Thanksgiving doughnuts and cider closed the evening's entertainment."

The Gazette (IA), November 24, 1893, offered a brief advertisement, "Buy your home-made Thanksgiving pies, doughnuts, and fruit cake at Jackson's Wednesday morning."

The Pittsburgh Press (PA), November 28, 1894, had a brief ad for a leaf lard, stating your "Thanksgiving Doughnuts" would be "doubly delightful" if they were made with this lard. The Pittsburgh Post-Gazette (PA), November 18, 1895, printed: “The chilly evenings and frosty mornings remind us that Thanksgiving is almost here. The turkey is fattening, the doughnuts are frying, and as for pies, none other than mince pies will be considered for the Thanksgiving dinner.

A Thanksgiving song. The Appleton City Journal (MO), November 26, 1896, printed a "Thanksgiving Song" and one of the lyrics stated, "Heigh ho! for dear jolly Thanksgiving, with doughnuts and cranberry sauce." The New Herald (PA), November 18, 1897, briefly mentioned a "Thanksgiving Doughnut Feast" was to be held by a local church. 

The Post Intelligencer (WA), November 11, 1906, mentioned "Autumn decorations were a fitting background for Thanksgiving refreshments, the never-to-be-forgotten doughnuts, cider and pumpkin pie.

This is the only doughnut recipe I found that specifically named them "Thanksgiving Doughnuts." The recipe was in the Tulsa Sunday Times (OK), November 26, 1916. It's not a difficult recipe and you could make them yourself this upcoming Thanksgiving. 

The St. Joseph News-Press (MO), November 26, 1919, published an ad for a new doughnut shop, which stated "Get your Thanksgiving doughnuts tonight." The doughnuts included: perfect cream doughnuts, frosted doughnuts, nut top doughnuts, French doughnuts, and chocolate top doughnuts. 

The Muskogee Daily Phoenix (OK), November 27, 1919, had a doughnut shop ad, which stated, "Call on us for your Thanksgiving Doughnuts."

Another lard advertisement! The Evening Times (PA), November 19, 1920, printed an ad about Bailey's Home Rendered Lard, which stated, "The minute you drop a Thanksgiving doughnut in the fat, it starts frying at once. When done the doughnut will be tender and delicious."

The Evening Gazette (MA), November 23, 1920, had an ad for Lemmon's Bakery, which offered donuts for Thanksgiving for 25 cents a dozen. 

Thanksgiving doughnuts even extended as far west as Hawaii! They were no longer just a New England tradition. The Honolulu Advertiser (HI), November 22, 1921, posted an ad asking people to order their Thanksgiving Doughnuts from the Doughnut Shop. 

The Daily Times, November 22, 1921, also had an advertisement for Thanksgiving doughnuts, noting "Doughnuts are a balanced food--Fat, Starch, Eggs and Milk."

The Oregon Sunday Journal (OR), November 25, 1928, mentioned that "indispensable thanksgiving goodies! Thanksgiving donuts, pumpkin and mince pies are synonymous!"

The Knoxville News-Sentinel (TN), November 28, 1928, mentioned that women from a local church were holding a "Thanksgiving doughnut" sale. There was another advertisement in the The Record (NJ), November 26, 1929, which briefly stated, “Doughnuts and Thanksgiving go hand in hand.”

It seems Thanksgiving doughnuts might not have been popular all across the country. In the The State (SC), November 18, 1930, it noted, “The difficulty in writing ‘household hints’ for the whole country is illustrated by the Thanksgiving bill of fare proposed by the Associated Press ‘Homemaker,’ Loise Bennett Weaver, which makes doughnuts an important item. Imagine doughnuts on a Southern table on Thanksgiving Day!” 

Thanksgiving donuts even showed up in Canada! The Saint John Times Globe (New Brunswick, Canada), October 15, 1935, noted that a local church group would be having a sale of "Thanksgiving doughnuts." It appears this tradition had traveled north to Canada. 

The Indianapolis Star (IN). November 27, 1935, ran a news article about a new doughnut machine at Sears, Roebuck & Co., where customers could watch them being made. The machine could produce 35 dozen Thanksgiving doughnuts in an hour.  The Commercial Appeal (TN), November 27, 1935, had a Thanksgiving recipe for Molasses Drop Cookies, which was made with a special new lard shortening, and it was noted, "... it clicks with everything. For roasting the Thanksgiving turkey, for frying the Thanksgiving doughnuts..."

The Daily Messenger (NY), November 22, 1937, published an ad for The Downyflake Shop, which asked you to "Order Your Thanksgiving Cakes, Doughnuts, Cookies and Pastries Now!"  And the Democrat & Chronicle (NY), November 18, 1939, had a small ad, "Mayflower Doughnuts--For Thanksgiving. Plain, sugar, cinnamon, nut crunch."

The Sun-Journal (ME) November 15, 1941, offered an article on "Honoring The Holiday Doughnut," which included a lengthy history of the doughnut. The article began, "No real New England Thanksgiving dinner, following the tradition of generations, would be complete with doughnuts left out.
There was a brief note in the Troy Daily New (NY), November 21, 1942, which mentioned a "Thanksgiving doughnut sale" at a local church. 

After this time, generally after World War II, many newspapers apparently stopped almost all mentions, except for a mere handful, of Thanksgiving doughnuts. It's possible that World War II, where doughnuts played an important role in some respects, might have contributed to the elimination of the tradition of doughnuts on Thanksgiving, although that is only speculation. The timing though seems coincidental, so it's an avenue that warrants additional research. 

The following are a few of the continued mentions of Thanksgiving donuts. 

The Windham County Observer (CT), November 18, 1947, provided a little info on Dave's Doughnut Shop, noting it "... has just what you want for that Thanksgiving social. Doughnuts, light as a feather,.." They cost 35 cents for a dozen of the plain doughnuts. They also sold frosted, cinnamon and powdered sugar doughnuts.  

The Denver Post (CO), November 24, 1948, ran an ad for Dunkin', mentioning "Thanksgiving donuts," and they came in several different flavors, including Pecan Caramel, Coconut Chocolate, Chocolate, Cinnamon Sugar, Plain, and Plain Sugar. 

There was a brief mention in the Los Angeles Evening Citizen News (CA), November 20, 1954, of a Thanksgiving doughnut sale by the PTA. And the Berkeley Gazette (CA), November 11, 1955, also had a brief note of Thanksgiving doughnuts. 

Thanksgiving Doughnuts once again in Canada! The Montreal Star (Quebec), September 29, 1956, had a lengthy article about Thanksgiving dinner, with a number of recipes. One of those recipes was for "Thanksgiving Doughnuts." These were plain, fried doughnuts, without an inner hole. This recipe would also be printed in a couple newspapers in Ontario.

The Record-Courier (OH), November 24, 1958, ran an ad for Smith's Pie Shoppe, telling people to "Order Tomorrow for Thanksgiving Donuts."

The Bridgeport Telegram (CT), November 23, 1959, printed an advertisement for Dunkin' Donuts, that stated, "Heap a lazy Susan with Thanksgiving Dunkin' Donuts when dessert time rolls around."

The Salisbury Post (NC), November 20, 1963, mentioned that there would be a Thanksgiving Day doughnut sale hosted by a National Honor Society. 

The largest Thanksgiving doughnut. The Hood County News (TX), November 25, 1979, briefly related that, "The world's first and largest Thanksgiving doughnut..." was recently unveiled. It weighed over 40 pounds and was said to be able to feed 300 people. A local doughnut shop spent 32 hours making this doughnut. 

There was a brief ad in The Evening Gazette (MA), November 20, 1980, that stated "Get your Thanksgiving donuts here at Mr. Donut."

The Bridgeton News (NJ). November, 23, 1999, ran an ad for Fisher's Food Center, and one of their Bakery offerings was "Thanksgiving Doughnuts" for $3.99 a dozen.

It's time to revive this Thanksgiving tradition, to bring the doughnut back to your Thanksgiving table! I have been doing so for the last few years and plan on continuing to do so each year. I know a few of my friends who have being bringing back this tradition as well.  I'm sure everyone at your Thanksgiving table would be very happy to see fresh doughnuts there. It's an easy and tasty tradition to follow. 

Who else believes we should bring back this tradition? Which doughnut stores will help to lead a path to the revival of Thanksgiving doughnuts? Who else plans to following this tradition this year? 

(This article was originally posted in August 2022 and has been significantly revised/expanded in October 2025.)

Tuesday, October 14, 2025

Agape Cakes & Confections: Unconditional Bakery Love in New Hampshire

I made a recent visit to Epping, New Hampshire, and prior to reaching my ultimate destination, I decided to stop in Raymond, New Hampshire, to check out Agape Cakes & Confections, a bakery with Greek influences. Overall, based on my initial impressions, I was very pleased with their delicious offerings and will return again to check out more of their baked goods. 

The bakery, owned by Reni, had its origins in 2020, when the company was run out of her home. In April 2022, Reni opened a brick and mortar shop, at 59 NH-27 Unit 5, Raymond, across the street from The Tuckaway Tavern. The name, "Agape," is a Greek word that is often translated as "unconditional love." Their website mostly has information about their Cakes, but their Facebook page has plenty of information and photos about their other baked goods. And those photos certainly enticed me to check out the bakery. 

Reni's website states: "My expertise lies in crafting custom cakes and cupcakes, each boasting a range of exquisite flavors. Drawing inspiration from my Greek heritage, we also offer a wide range of authentic Greek pastries, with a particular standout being the beloved baklava."

They offer Muffins, Scones and their own Pop-Tarts (in flavors such as Brown Sugar, Pumpkin, Apple Pie and Raspberry).

They also make Turnovers, Danish and Cinnamon Rolls (said to be one of their top sellers).

I was excited to see their Greek pies, including Ham & Cheese, Feta, Spinach, and Spinach & Artichoke. I bought the Ham & Cheese and Feta pies, and they were both ample-sized, with many layers of flaky pastry and filled with plenty of tasty meat and cheese. A hearty and delicious breakfast or lunch treat and strongly recommended. 

Plenty of other baked goods, such as Lemon Squares, Eclairs, Baklava Cheesecake, Chocolate Chip Cookie Pie, and much more. I got the Galaktoboureko, a traditional Greek dessert featuring a custard baked in a crispy phyllo pastry crust, soaked with a sweet syrup. It was quite tasty, very flaky with sweet and creamy custard, and definitely was a fine example of this dessert which I have previously enjoyed at a few other places. They also sell Chocolate Whoopie Pies and Pumpkin Whoopie Pies, and I got a few of the small Chocolate Whoopie Pies. The cake was soft and chocolatey, with a very creamy inner frosting. A good choice.

They have a few Gluten-Friendly items, such as Flourless Chocolate Cake and Lemon Squares. They also non-Gluten Friendly items such as Chocolate Sundae Case Cake, Chocolate Banana Cookies, and Pumpkin Maple Doodles.  

I had to try the Chocolate Banana Cookies, which are "Soft banana bread cookies topped with a swirl of rich chocolate ganache and finished with banana chips." The cookie possessed a more subtle, but tasty, banana flavor and the rich and creamy chocolate was a delight. The crunchy bananas chips added a nice textural contrast to the rest of the cookie. This also earns my hearty recommendation. 

They also sell a variety of Cupcakes, other Gluten-Friendly options, and more. 

Agape offers a diverse selection of baked goods, some Greek-inspired, and based on what I've tasted, they are generally delicious and well-made. No matter what your preference, you'll probably find something that appeals to you, and I strongly recommend you check out their Greek-inspired pies and desserts. Give some love to Agape.