Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) Here are some of the current Specials at The Painted Burro, with locations in Davis Square, Harvard Square and Brookline. 

• The Taco Take Down: Every Tuesday night, you can enjoy five 4" tacos for $15. Choose from any taco on their menu including new tacos that will only be available on Tuesdays!  
• Bottomless Brunch: Available Every Saturday + Sunday. Sides, Desserts and Drinks are not included.
• Mucho Monday: Available every Monday night, featuring all-you-can-eat favorites that bring the heat and the value. Entrees, Desserts and Drinks not included.

2) Xenia Greek Hospitality today announces their Greco Truly Greek eateries are now serving gluten free pita. The addition of the new gluten free pita stays true to Greek tradition. The pita has a great texture with no filler ingredients, just gluten-free goodness. The gluten free pita is made by Marinos Kosmas gluten free bakery in Greece. The ingredients are: water, rice flour, tapioca flour, sugar, greek olive oil, yeast, salt and everything is fully organic. No preservatives. Greco’s gluten free pitas are also celiac safe when prepared on their charcoal grill.

The following pitas are gluten free, and guests can always customize their own combinations to be stacked, sauced and wrapped to perfection.
Pea Protein + Hummus – Plant-based never tasted so bold—pea protein kebab with garlicky skordalia, hummus, and roasted vegetables
Classic Pork + Tzatziki – A Greek OG: tender pork gyro wrapped with creamy tzatziki, fresh veggies, and hand-cut fries.
Truly Greek Chicken – Juicy chicken gyro with honey mustard, classic toppings, oregano, and crispy fries—flavor in every bite.
Lamb + Pepper – Slow-roasted lamb gyro with smoky pepper paprika, feta crumbles, and fries—rich, hearty, and totally Greek
Greek-Style Burger – Juicy bifteki patty loaded with spicy feta, fresh veggies, and fries

The gluten free pita is now rolled out at all locations: Newbury Street, Seaport, Milk Street, Hub Hall and Burlington Mall. The DC location in Georgetown is also serving the gluten free pita, and the second DC location in Union Market will be opening soon.

3) Cupid has his sights set on XOXO Sushi Bar in Chestnut Hill this Valentine’s Day weekend. From February 13-15, Chef Kegan Stritchko will present a multi-course jukusei omakase tasting menu utilizing XOXO’s advanced in-house dry-ager and jukusei technique – “aging” in Japanese, where fish used in sushi is salted or soaked in vinegar then matured for several days – that features local and rare sea treasures designed with indulgent and intriguing flavor profiles.

For three nights, February 13-15, the jukusei omakase experience will be showcased over 11-courses ($175 per guest): an Island Creek oyster with leche de tigre and dill; hirame usuzukuri with yuzu dashi, candied quinoa and lemon zest; madai and shima aji nigiri; chef’s choice of five pieces of sashimi; hiramasa and Ora King salmon nigiri; chawanmushi with savory egg custard, snow crab and ikura; bluefin tuna and akamutsu nigiri; a negitoro handroll with bluefin tuna belly, scallion and shiso; grilled langoustine with miso butter, kimchi and chili oil; A5 wagyu beef tartare with black garlic, caviar and taro root; and a dessert of Thai chili chocolate ice cream with chocolate ganache and cranberry gel.

Reservations are recommended via OpenTable.

4) Chef-Owner Peter Wang’s Dumpling Café in Boston’s Chinatown is ringing in the Lunar New Year with Double the Dish—a lineup of Buy One, Get One offers that upend traditional restaurant pricing. Why wait until Chinese New Year on February 17? The offer is available now through the end of February, with more than half of the takeout menu offered BOGO, exclusively for online, pickup, and delivery orders. BOGO menu items range from $6 to $30.

Buy One, Get One menu items include Chef Peter Wang’s popular, award-winning dishes such as his Taiwan-style pan-fried dumplings, roasted duck buns, and award-winning mini juicy buns (aka soup dumplings), along with General Gau’s chicken, scallion pancakes, braised beef brisket noodle soup with spinach, twice-cooked pork, and steamed beef-and-cabbage dumplings. Virtually every soup, noodle, and fried rice selection on the menu is available BOGO. And that’s as close to free food that you can find.

Food is at the heart of Chinese New Year, with many dishes symbolizing health, prosperity, and family togetherness. With this once-in-a-lifetime promotion, Dumpling Café Chef-Owner Peter Wang thanks Boston for its continued support and invites the city to celebrate the Lunar New Year the most delicious way possible—by sharing great food. He wishes all Bostonians Kung Hei Fat Choy (Happy New Year).

The Origins of Ah-So Sauce: A Chinese Style Barbecue Sauce

"I'll tell you one thing. Boston has the best Chinese food in the country. I've traveled all over. I know that for a fact."

--Harvey Edlin

If you grew up in New England, you might be familiar with Ah-So Sauce, a sweet, red "Chinese Style" sauce, commonly used for pork, chicken and spareribs. It's not an authentic Chinese sauce, but was very popular, especially due to its ease of use. It's still available at grocery stores, and is now available across the country.

The origins of this sauce are in New England, in Newton, Massachusetts. Harvey Edlin, of Newton (and formerly of New Haven, Connecticut), commonly receives the credit for creating this sauce, but did he actually invent it? Let's explore the history of Ah-So sauce, delve into the facts, and determine who actually created it. 

Harvey S. Eldin was born in the last half of 1916 or the first half of 1917, in New Haven, Connecticut. He would eventually attend Yale University, where he seemed to excel in both his studies and athletics.  

The Hartford Courant (CT), December 12, 1933, reported that Harvey S. Eldin, of New Haven, received an Honorable Mention (one of only three people to receive such) for the Samuel Henry Galpin Latin prize. The prize was awarded to the "freshmen who pass the best entrance examinations in the subjects." The Waterbury Democrat (CT), September 21, 1935, noted that Harvey, of the Yale class of 1937, was on the Honor List. 

Sports achievement! The Philadelphia Inquirer (PA), May 25, 1936, detailed the 624 athletes who were to be entrants in the 60th Annual I.C. 4-A Championships. Harvey Edlin, of Yale, was listed as a participant in the 100-metre dash. The Springfield Daily Republican (MA), March 14, 1937, reported that the opening competition in the 4-A Track and Field Championships was held in New York. In the 60 yard dash trials, Harvey placed in 4th in the first heat, although only 1st and 2nd place entered the semi-finals. 

The Boston Globe (MA), June 22, 1937, stated that 600 people graduated from Yale University, and Harvey Edlin received a Bachelor of Arts degree.

With the advent of World War II, Harvey entered the military, and would also get married. The Boston Herald (MA), April 4, 1943, noted an announcement by Mr. and Mrs. Myer Ginsburg of Newton, that their daughter, Evelyn Ginsburg, was now engaged to Harvey Edlin of New Haven. It was also mentioned that Harvey was currently stationed at an army base at Camp Haan, California.  

The Boston Globe (MA), September 26, 1943, then announced the marriage of Evelyn Gloria Ginsburg to Lieutenant Harvey Edlin of New Haven. The Carlsbad Current-Argus (NM), February 8, 1944, later stated that Lt. Harvey Edlin was currently stationed in Fort Bliss, Texas. 

The 1937 Seven-Year Book (June 1944) was published for the Yale Class of 1937, and provided updates on the graduates. It began that Harvey lived at 33 Edgewood Avenue, New Haven, Connecticut, and had been married on September 12, 1943. Soon after his graduation from Yale, he began to work for the Jordan Marsh Company until he joined the Army in 1943. "In April he was a Private in the Coast Artillery, stationed at Camp Haan, Calif., and on September 9, 1943, he received a commission as a Second Lieutenant in the Coast Artillery Corps upon completing a course at the Anti-Aircraft School at Camp Davis, N.C. At present he is assigned to the A.A.A.T.A.C. at Fort Bliss, Texas."

Driving problems! Harvey apparently accumulated a variety of driving offenses over the course of at least six years. The Evening Gazette (MA), September 8, 1948, noted that Harvey had been fined $20 for speeding. The Republican (MA), July 2, 1954, mentioned that Harvey Edlin, age 37, of 507 Norton Parkway, New Haven, was charged with failing to keep right with view obstructed. He pled nolo and was fined $10. There were apparently additional driving offenses which led to his license being suspended. The Republican (MA), October 30, 1954, reported that Harvey was charged with operating in Massachusetts after his right to operate had been previously suspended. The matter was continued although later newspapers didn't mention the result. 

The Boston Sunday Herald (MA), May 2, 1954, briefly noted that Harvey bought a home, a frame colonial type, at 251 Dorset Street, Waban (one of the villages of Newton). He would reside at this address for the rest of his life. 

A good samaritan. The Republican (MA), August 24, 1956, reported that a 50 year old woman, in an apparent suicide attempt, fell 35 feet from a 2nd story window at a hotel. Before she fell, two guests, including Harvey, saw her on the ledge. They summoned employees to the scene and assisted them in trying to help the woman, who survived the fall. 

After the war, what was Harvey doing for work? The Portland Press Herald (ME), January 6, 1957, published an advertisement for an “Exclusive Franchise Available” for Maine, New Hampshire, and Vermont. It involved the sale of "Very profitable equipment sold to Supermarkets, Restaurants, Syndicate stores, etc." Interested parties were asked to write to Harvey Edlin, Box 1, Waban, Mass. What was the nature of this equipment?  

The answer appeared in the Hartford Courant (CT), January 5, 1960, which had a large ad noting the various contractors who assisted in the construction of a new supermarket, including “Barbecue by Harvey Edlin Sales Co.” Harvey sold barbecue equipment to supermarkets, covering the New England region. 

The Greenville News (SC), November 25, 1962, reported that the division sales managers for Barbecue King had gathered in Greenville, South Carolina, for a meeting to discuss their marketing program for 1963. Harvey attended, representing all of New England, and apparently had worked for the company for at least five years. 

As an aside, Barbecue King, Inc. was founded by Robert G. Wilson, of Greenville, South Carolina, in the early 1950s. They were maybe best known for a chicken roasting machine that spread throughout supermarkets across the U.S. 

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First mention of Ah So sauce! The first printed reference to Ah So sauce was in the Springfield Daily News (MA), May 27, 1963. There was an ad for the Popular Super Markets, which mentioned, “Try Our AH-SO Chinese Barbecue Sauce” and it cost 69 cents a jar.  

When was Ah So barbecue sauce actually invented? And what was the connection of Harvey Edlin, a seller of barbecue equipment and supplies?

The Official Gazette of the U.S. Patent Office, January 7, 1964, noted that on May 9, 1963, the Harvey Edlin Sales Corporation filed for a trademark for the above Ah-So, "For Sauces for Meat and Sea foods." The first use of the term was stated to be on March 20, 1963, so we now have a definitive date when Ah So sauce was first made available. 

We then need to jump ahead ten years for answers to these questions, to an article, titled "Another Hub banner: top chop suey capital," in the Boston Globe, June 29, 1973. The subject of much of this article was Harvey, pictured above, who was now considered a "Chinese food authority." The article began noting, “Greater Boston has become the chop suey capital of the United States. There are probably more Chinese restaurants per capita hereabouts than there are in any other major metropolitan area in the nation." 

Then, Harvey added, "To be exact, there are 108 Chinese restaurants locally, said Harvey Edlin of Newton. "They're all over the place. You can't miss them." It was mentioned that St. Louis, with a similar population to Boston, only had 33 Chinese restaurants. While San Francisco and New York City had more Chinese restaurants than Boston, about 145 each, they both also had about seven times as many Chinese as Boston. Plus, “Edlin said that Chinese food is not popular in all corners of New England.” He mentioned that there was a city in Connecticut (though he didn't name it) with a population of a couple hundred thousand which only had a single Chinese restaurant. 

The article lauded Edlin as the creator of "the famous Ah So barbecue sauce." The article continued, "Edlin also revealed that it was local supermarket customers who inspired him to develop his popular Ah So sauce." He noted, "About 15 years ago, I was selling barbecue machines to the local supermarkets. The idea was to get the customers to buy the food barbecued in the machines. We used to put hickory sauce on the spareribs. The people who bought the spareribs started complaining. They said they wanted their spareribs coated with the red sauce they had at Chinese restaurants." So, this would have been around 1958. 

To please those customers, Edlin desired to create something similar to the Chinese barbecue sauce for his spareribs, and he consulted his neighbor, Herb Schuster, a food scientist. Edlin stated, "I told him what I had in mind, and he got to work on the project. Eventually, Herb came up with the sauce I wanted." So, Schuster, based on Edlin's desires, was actually the person who developed the formula for the Ah So sauce. The sauce was a "smash hit" so Edlin established a food company, producing it for supermarkets. Edlin also added, "I decided to call it Ah So. That's an an old Japanese expression, but it sounds Chinese so I decided to use it."

The term "ah so" is a shortened version of the Japanese "ă sō desu ka?", which means  "oh, is that so?" From 1959 and for many years afterwards, the term "ah so" was used by many different people, in numerous contexts, especially in ads for Chinese food. It seems likely that Harvey was aware of its use, and decided to adopt it for the barbecue sauce, especially as people were seeking spareribs that tasted like those at Chinese restaurants. 

Harvey started scouting out other possible markets for his new sauce, and every time he visited a new city, he checked out their Chinese restaurants. "Thus it was that Edlin became an expert on Chinese restaurants." So, he became an alleged expert simply by visiting many different restaurants. No details are provided as to how many Chinese restaurants he visited, or even which cities he visited. 

The article continued, "The expert said that for years he has been trying to find out why chicken chow mein, chop suey, egg foo yong and other Chinese taste treats are so popular in Greater Boston." It was then said, "I've yet to come up with a logical explanation for the popularity of Chinese food here, he said. In other parts of the nation, people ignore it. Here in Boston, we go crazy over it." Finally, he stated, "I'll tell you one thing. Boston has the best Chinese food in the country. I've traveled all over. I know that for a fact."

While running his own company, selling the Ah So sauce, Harvey continued to work for Barbecue King, Inc. The Greenville News (SC), December 17, 1964, reported that Barbecue King, Inc. had provided awards to its top salesmen. Harvey, their New England distributor, had one of the highest number of sales over quotas during the past year, receiving 75,000 King Korn trading stamps as his award.  

More information on the creation of Ah So sauce. The Boston Traveler, August 16, 1965, was actually the first article to mention the creation of Ah So sauce. The article was primarily about Herb Schuster, a 40ish MIT Grad, who operated a unique business at 54 Clayton Street in Dorchester. He and his highly skilled assistants "decide what you'll be eating six months or six years hence, and how it will be presented and packaged." In addition, “They do feasibility surveys, almost exclusively on foods, for a wide variety of big food distributors and packagers.” 

His company was about 10 years old, and was formed after Schuster received his doctorate at Tech, where he then taught for 3 years. He also had put in a two-year stint with Stickney & Poor in Charlestown, then going out on his own. He "doesn't want any more business," as he has all he can handle right now.  Some of their previous work has included: a research project on the proper makeup of cole slaw, a survey to improve a coffee dispenser’s timing and grind control, and the creation of salt-free bread. 

It was finally mentioned that, “…at the suggestion of a neighbor, Harry Edlin, of Newton, who sells barbecue machines, Herb and his staff perfected a Chinese barbecue sauce.” So, we again see that it was Schuster and his team who actually created Ah So sauce, based on the want of Harvey for a sauce for his spareribs which would mimic that found at Chinese restaurants.  

During the first half of the 1960s, references to the Ah-So sauce were few. The Tampa Tribune (FL), November 21, 1965, ran an ad that briefly mentioned, “Ah-So, special sauce for Chinese style cooking.”   This ad shows though that the Ah-So sauce had already spread out of New England, and at least as far south as Florida.

The Birmingham News (AL), June 21, 1967, had an ad which mentioned, “Make Chinese Style Barbecue Pork and Spareribs in your own kitchen with Ah-So Chinese Sauce,” which cost 69 cents a bottle. More evidence of the spread of the sauce in the south. 

The Daily Item (MA), August 2, 1967, published an ad for an 11 ounce jar of “Ah So Sparerib Sauce.” 

The Connecticut Post (CT), September 26, 1967, had a gourmet shop ad, mentioning the Ah-So Sauce, and how to apply it on spareribs or roast pork. 

The Republican (MA), July 11, 1968, ran an ad for Ah-So sauce, now in stock, although no price  was given.

The Sun-Journal (ME), September 5, 1968,  had this ad for an 11 ounce jar of “Ah So Chinese Sauce” costing 59 cents, the cheapest price so far. 

Help wanted! Boston Globe (MA), December 29, 1968, had a help wanted ad seeking a driver-salesman for Edlin Foods, Waban, MA. The Hartford Courant (CT), March 28, 1971, later ran a similar ad for a  driver-salesman.

The Patriot Ledger (MA), March 8, 1972, ran an ad for an 11 ounce jar of “Ah So Chinese Barbecue Sauce” for 59 cents.  

The Rock Island Argus (IL), August 10, 1972, printed the above ad for Ah So Sauce. More ads were published in other parts of the country. The Fort Lauderdale News (FL), June 27, 1973, had an ad for Ah So Chinese Style Barbecue sauce, an 11 ounce jar for 79 cents. The Evening Express (ME), April 10, 1978, ran a similar ad. 

The Burlington Free Press (VT), February 12, 1979, printed an ad for Ah So Duck Sauce, the first time an ad for this product was found. It came in a 10 ounce jar for 79 cents. The Journal Tribune (ME), February 12, 1979, had a similar ad for Ah So Duck Sauce. The Sun Journal (ME), March 18, 1980, had an ad for Ah So B-B-Q Sauce, an 11 ounce jar for 83 cents, as well as Ah So Chinese Duck Sauce, a 10 ounce jar for 83 cents. 

The Hartford Courant (CT), May 22, 1985, published this ad, showing the iconic Ah-So jar. 

The Boston Globe, May 21, 1986, had this ad, calking it "The Original Chinese Barbecue Sauce."

Unfortunately, the Boston Globe, May 21 and 22, 1980, reported on the death of Harvey Edlin, age 63, who died suddenly on May 19 in the Newton-Wellesley Hospital. The cause of death was never provided. The obituary stated that he had resided at 251 Dorset Street, Waban, and left behind a wife, Evelyn, four sons (Gary H., Robert P., Richard M. and David B.), and two grandchildren (Scott and Lisa). In 1956, he founded the Harvey Edlin Sales Co., which specialized in the distribution of supermarket equipment. He was also the president of Edlin Foods, manufacturers of barbecue sauce and other food products. The Boston Herald American, May 22, 1980, added that he graduated from Yale in 1937 and during World War 2, he served in the army in the Pacific. Besides his Waban home, he had another home in New Seabury on Cape Cod. 

In November 1995, Allied Old English, Inc., in Port Reading, New Jersey, purchased the product line of Edlin Sales, including the Ah-So sauces. They now produce the original Ah-So Sauce, Ah-So Duck Sauce, Ah-So Sweet & Sour Sauce, and Ah-So Dipping Sauce. The Original and the Dipping Sauce are also now available in plastic squeeze bottles. The Original 11 ounce jar commonly retails for $5-$6. 

The Original Ah-So Sauce is currently produced from high fructose corn syrup, water, salt, miso, corn starch, garlic powder, FD&C Red No.40, and FD&C Red No. 3. The formula is going to need to change in the future as there is now a FDA ban on FD&C Red No. 3 for foods and ingested drugs. "The FDA is amending its color additive regulations to no longer allow for the use of FD&C Red No. 3 in food and ingested drugs in response to a 2022 color additive petition." "Manufacturers who use FD&C Red No. 3 in food and ingested drugs will have until January 15, 2027 or January 18, 2028, respectively, to reformulate their products." 

So, although Harvey Edlin gets the credit for inventing Ah-So Sauce, it was actually Herb Schuster and his team who created it. Harvey used their creation, naming it Ah-So sauce, and helped to spread its popularity across the country. Over 60 years later, it's still available, remaining popular. Harvey deserves credit for his work, but then so does Schuster and his team.

When's the last time you used Ah-So sauce? And what did you use it for? 

Rant: Dry January Hurts Restaurants

Ponder for a moment your favorite full-service restaurants in Boston, ignoring fast casual and fast food spots. How many of those restaurants don't have some type of liquor license? Your answer is probably zero, or close to zero.

Check out the recent lists of the top full-service restaurants of the year that have appeared in multiple media sources. Almost invariably, each restaurant on the list has some type of liquor license. When is the last time you saw a full-service restaurant without a liquor licenses ending up on their Best Of lists? It's quite the rarity. 

Let's face it, a full-service restaurant would have difficulty surviving for any length of time without a liquor license. That's one reason why all-alcohol liquor licenses are so expensive on the secondary market, sometimes costing as much as $600,000 in Boston. 

It's commonly stated that many restaurants derive about 30% of their revenue from alcohol sales. In addition, the margins on food are usually low, in the single digits, while margins on alcohol sales can average about 30%, if not more. With all of the costs and expenses involved in opening and operating a restaurant, increasing your margins is an imperative to long-term survival.

January is a tough time for many businesses, including restaurants. They often have trouble with filling their seats each night and Dry January makes it even tougher for restaurants. So, even when the restaurants fill their seats, there are a significant number of their customers who won't drink alcohol in January, thus reducing the highest profit margins. Some restaurants may offer non-alcoholic drinks, such as mocktails and alcohol-free beer, but they don't offer the same potential profit as alcohol. There is a big difference between a customer ordering a bottle of wine and one ordering a single mocktail. 

Dry January hurts restaurants!

Ask yourself whether you truly need Dry January or not. Is it a medical necessity or are you just following a trend? Are you letting yourself be convinced to participate by advertisements from companies selling alcohol-free products? Could you simply drink more moderately in January instead of giving it up totally for 31 days? 

Culinary Creativity: Chef Joseph Carli

Chef Joseph Carli is the Executive Chef and culinary force behind A Tavola in Winchester, Massachusetts, where he offers a thoughtful, ingredient-driven approach to Italian cuisine rooted in tradition and seasonality. A lifelong New Englander, his cooking reflects both the warmth of the Italian table and a deep connection to the region he proudly calls home. A graduate of the New England Culinary Institute, Chef Carli brings classical training and a philosophy centered on balance, restraint, and respect for quality ingredients. His menus highlight house-made pastas, carefully sourced produce, and thoughtfully prepared proteins that allow simplicity and technique to shine.

At A Tavola, Chef Carli creates refined yet approachable dishes that honor Italian culinary traditions while embracing a modern sensibility. His commitment to craftsmanship, consistency, and genuine hospitality has made the restaurant a beloved neighborhood destination north of Boston. Chef Carli lives locally with his wife, Kacie, their son, Ryan, and their two golden retrievers, remaining closely connected to the community he serves both in and out of the kitchen. 

I'll also personally note that A Tavola is one of my Top Five Favorite Restaurants, earning my highest recommendation. I heartily thank Joe for participating in my resurrection of my Culinary Creativity series. 

(Check out my Introduction to the Culinary Creativity series.)

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Now onto the interview--

How important is culinary creativity to you? Why is it important?
Culinary creativity is essential to me. A chef mentor once told me, “If you’re not changing, you’re getting stale,” and that idea really guided me—especially during the pandemic, which coincided with my first year in business.
When we were forced to shift entirely to takeout, I noticed the same loyal guests coming back week after week. I didn’t want them to feel bored or uninspired, so while we kept a few core dishes, the rest of the menu was constantly evolving—sometimes changing day to day based on instinct, mood, or what was available.
As a neighborhood restaurant, it’s important to me that guests feel the menu is alive and never stagnant. Creativity keeps things exciting not just for our guests, but for me and the staff as well. Living in New England, where seasons and weather shift dramatically, it only feels natural that the food reflects those changes. Variety keeps us honest, energized, and engaged.

What are your most significant inspirations for your culinary creativity? What makes those sources so inspiring?
Cookbooks and flavor memories are huge inspirations for me, but honestly, ideas can come from anywhere. I once got the idea for a steak dish while watching a Bugs Bunny cartoon with my son when he was a baby—the dish just just clicked in that moment.
At A Tavola, many of the cookbooks I love most live in our dining room. While I may reference techniques or ideas, if I ever adapt a dish directly, I believe strongly in crediting the original chef—it’s about paying respect to someone who did it first.
What inspires me most, though, are the stories. I love cookbooks that include essays, anecdotes, and reflections. I’m a big believer in reading a cookbook cover to cover—it gives you insight into how a chef thinks, not just how they cook.

Where do you get your ideas for new recipes or dishes?
Ideas come from a mix of memories, books, conversations, seasons, and guest experiences. Sometimes it’s something I’ve eaten years ago that sticks with me; other times it’s a product that arrives and it is so fresh and perfect that I don’t really want to do anything to it and serve it as natural as I can. The menu often reflects what’s happening outside, what guests are responding to, and what excites me at that moment. I try and be observant as to what is trendy with what my clientele sees in magazines, blogs and socials, so that I know what they would be looking for when they come in for dinner.

What is your process for creating a new recipe or dish?
When I’m developing a new dish, I always start by cooking it myself and tasting it thoroughly. Then I tweak it and taste again—often with someone else—before deciding whether it needs further refinement or should be scrapped entirely. If it’s close, I’ll run it as a special for a night or two to gauge guest response. Like any restaurant, we have hits and flops. There are dishes I’m convinced will be instant winners that don’t land, and others I’m less excited about that the staff and guests absolutely love. Staying open to that feedback is crucial.

Do other members of your staff assist with creating ideas for new recipes or dishes?
Yes and no. Some of our younger staff are very plugged into food trends and social media and will show me things they’re seeing online. While those dishes can look beautiful, they’re often designed more for the camera than for flavor or practicality in a restaurant setting. Where the staff really influences the menu is through guest feedback. The team spends way more time talking with guests than I do —many of whom travel extensively and dine out often—and they share those experiences with us. That feedback can absolutely shape menu items, specials, and even what ends up on our wine list or behind the bar.
My sous chef, David, who I’ve worked with across six kitchens over the past 15 years, is also an essential sounding board. We understand each other’s palates and cooking styles deeply, and I trust him to tell me whether a dish truly fits A Tavola or belongs to a future project. Every member of the staff knows that I have an open door policy and they can come to me with any idea or thought on how to improve A Tavola in any way.

How do you test new recipes or dishes?
Through repetition, tasting, and real guest response. A dish isn’t finished until it performs well both in the kitchen and in the dining room. Specials are often the final test before something earns a place on the menu.

What is the most difficult part of culinary creativity?
One of the hardest parts is deciding who you’re cooking for. Are you cooking for yourself, for recognition, or for your guests? I’ve never been particularly motivated by stars or awards. What matters most to me is cooking food that makes both me and our guests genuinely happy. That means staying aware of trends without chasing them, remaining true to my own instincts, and cooking with intention. I really believe that your emotions show up on the plate.

Do you ever experience creative block, and how do you work through it?
Absolutely—it’s very real. When it happens, I’ll dive into cookbooks or buy a new one to shake up my thinking. Sometimes I’ll cook something tied to a positive memory, like a dialed up version of my mother’s mushroom chicken dish from when I was a kid, which I recently served at a wine dinner.
Other times, I need physical focus. My version of “zen” is making pasta or breaking down a whole animal and challenging myself to use every part thoughtfully. And when all else fails, I’ll go out to eat somewhere I know I’ll be taken care of—like Giulia, where I’ve never had a bad experience. It’s a reminder that food is meant to bring joy. Cooking in any form is a happy place for me, I can’t sit at a desk or behind a screen for too long or I grow restless and just need to MOVE

Relate an unusual or interesting anecdote about the creation of one of your dishes.
One of my favorite stories comes from a beer dinner with Aeronaut Brewing. They were debuting a beer called Hop Hop and Away, featuring a cartoon rabbit astronaut on the can. Naturally, my mind went straight to rabbit—but I needed a way to make it playful and thoughtful. It was early spring, so I leaned into freshness. The beer was hop-forward with citrus notes, which led me toward something fried and rich but balanced. I braised rabbit hind legs, carefully deboned them, reshaped them, and breaded them with an herb-forward mixture before pan-frying them until golden. I paired them with a hop-infused aioli and surrounded the dish with clovers, greens, and herbs—echoing what rabbits would be eating in the fields. It was whimsical, seasonal, and tied directly back to the beer. 

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) This winter, two local Lexington brands, il Casale Lexington and Liberty Sweets, are teaming up for a delicious cause. Beginning January 5 and running through Saturday, February 28th, the Lexington Center restaurant and candy store will offer an exclusive co-branded, build-your-own cannoli takeout kit and decadent cannoli dine-in/takeout plate, with a portion of proceeds benefiting The Greater Boston Food Bank.

The il Casale Lexington x Liberty Sweets Cannoli Collaboration blends classic Italian tradition with handcrafted confections, creating an interactive dessert experience that gives back to the community. Available for dine-in at and takeout by il Casale Lexington, the enhanced cannoli experiences feature co-branded packaging and exclusive cross-promotional offers between the two businesses.

Each Cannoli Build-Your-Own Takeout Kit ($19) and Cannoli Dine-In/Takeout Plate ($15) include:

• 3-6 Sicilian cannoli shells from il Casale [3 for dine-in/takeout plate + 6 for build-your-own takeout kit]
• 1 piping bag of house-made cinnamon ricotta filling from il Casale [piping bag for build-your-own takeout kit only]
• 3 candy toppings (mini nonpareil mints, cinnamon imperials, assorted jelly beans) from Liberty Sweets
• 3 gourmet chocolates (milk chocolate maple, raspberry cream, toffee truffle) from Liberty Sweets [for dine-in/takeout plate only]
• Coupons offering 10% off any future Liberty Sweets purchase and 1 Bruschetta al Pomodoro with a purchase of any entrée at il Casale 

“Food has the power to bring people together – and to help those in need,” says il Casale co-owner & director of operations Filippo de Magistris. “Partnering with Liberty Sweets and supporting The Greater Boston Food Bank allows us to celebrate both community and cuisine.”

“Having recently opened in Lexington Center, Liberty Sweets is proud to collaborate with seasoned il Casale on a project that spreads joy and makes a meaningful impact,” says Liberty Sweets owner Chuck Manning. “It’s the perfect way to start the year – sweetly and generously.”

Orders can be placed at il Casale Lexington or via Toast.

2) The new Posto South End is offering a special Happy Hour offer, including an Appetizer, Pizza and a Dessert for only $18! It’s a good excuse to unwind after work, share great food, and savor a little something sweet to finish. This offer is only available at the South End location, daily from 4-6pm at the bar only. I'm a big fan of the Somerville location of Posto, and love their pizza. Their Roasted Garlic Pizza, a White pizza, is superb, and with more garlic than maybe any other pizza I've ever had. So, I highly recommend you check out this Happy Hour deal at the new South End location.