Monday, October 12, 2026

Rant: Choosing Thanksgiving Wines With Ease

Every year countless people stress over which wines to pair with their Thanksgiving dinner. These people also worry that their holiday might be a failure unless they have the correct wines. The media contributes to this worry, with countless articles about the "proper" wines to have on Thanksgiving. The holidays can be stressful enough without having to worry about the wine, especially when those worries are generally needless.

Cast your memory back to last year's Thanksgiving. Can you remember which specific wines you had with dinner? Can you remember the specific wines you had with Thanksgiving dinner two years ago?

I'm sure that nearly everyone won't be able to remember except maybe in the most general terms. Maybe they recall having had a Pinot Noir or a Riesling. They're unlikely to recall the specific producer or much else about the wine. What they are more likely to remember is the good (at least hopefully it was good) time they had, the family and friends that shared their table. They might remember that the food and wine was good or bad but the specifics may be foggy. 

Generally, it's for a short time after Thanksgiving that people will remember the wines they enjoyed at their dinner. During that time, they are likely to tell other people about what they ate and drank, sharing any special wines they might have discovered. If they especially enjoyed the wines, they might then seek them out for their next holiday feasts. They may rave about their host, complimenting their choice of wines. 

Do you really need to worry about specific Thanksgiving wine recommendations? I don't think so. The more I ponder the question, the more I realize that all you need for Thanksgiving are some good wines, the varietals and/or blends being much less important. As long as they do not blatantly clash with the meal, then they should work just fine. And few wines are going to so blatantly clash. Drink wines you'll enjoy and don't worry so much about "perfect pairings."

A Thanksgiving meal is diverse, with many different flavors, from savory to sweet, and many different textures. No single wine is a perfect pairing with all these different dishes. So you need wines that people will enjoy in of their own right. I don't think many hosts are actually seeking the "perfect" wine pairing. They simply want something that people will enjoy and which won't greatly detract from the food.

Plus, who'll remember the wines next year?

We must also remember that any wine shared with good friends and family is likely to taste better, or at least seem that way, than one drank alone. The circumstances of the day, the good feelings, the fond memories, the thanks for the past year, will all lead to your wine seeming better. And it's all those surrounding circumstances that people will most remember about Thanksgiving. The wine will always take the back seat.

The wine is simply an extra, not a necessity. It pales in importance to everything else about the holiday. Like the Whos from "The Grinch Who Stole Xmas," there should still be joy even if all of the food and wine were taken away.

I'll bring a variety of wines to my Thanksgiving feast, a mix of sparkling wine, white, red and dessert wines. In general, I'll pick interesting and delicious wines that I feel people will enjoy. I won't spend much time worrying about pairing them with specific dishes and foods, although I'll consider which wines might clash too much with the various dishes. I want wines that will make people smile, that will enhance the spirit of the day.

If you want some assistance with selecting wines to make your guests smile, then come see me at the Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet shop in Melrose. I can show you plenty of delicious and interesting wines which would work well for your Thanksgiving table. I can show you different wines rather than the traditional pairings. Everyone else might bring the standard wines, so why not stand out by bringing a more unique wine? Give your guests something to talk about once the feast is over.

Consider wines, both whites and reds from Croatia, Greece, Uruguay, Slovenia, Palestine, Lebanon, Hungary, or Georgia. The shop has wines from around 25 different countries. Pick up some Bubbly, such as Cava, Cremant d'Alsace, or Grower Champagne. If you want something different, consider a White Pinot Noir from Oregon, a White Malbec from Argentina, or a White Sangiovese from Italy. Try an Orange Wine, a skin-contact white wine, which goes well with roast turkey. You'll find a couple dozen Orange Wines, from all over the world. You should also consider Sake for your Thanksgiving table, which is actually a very food friendly beverage, and we have a diverse selection from Sparkling Sake to Junmai Daiginjo. If you want more Natural Wines, the store stocks over 350 such wines. For after-dinner consumption, consider Port (Ruby to White), Sherry, Sauternes or Tokaj.      

Whatever you do for Thanksgiving, enjoy yourself and appreciate all that you have, rather than worry about what you do not.

(This is an expanded/revised version of a post originally from 2009. My basic sentiment has not changed one iota since that time and I felt it was important enough to raise it once again.)

Thursday, October 8, 2026

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) For Thanksgiving, Margeaux’s Supper Parlor is hosting a Thanksgiving Dinner on Thursday, November 26, from 3–8 p.m. for $80 per person, featuring a choice of starter, primary, and sides, followed by dessert. Options include "Turducken" with Italian sausage and gravy, Halibut with beurre blanc, spinach, caviar, and crab ravioli, Beef Wellington with truffle and spinach, and pumpkin ravioli as a vegetarian option. Check out the full Menu HERE. 

2) Aquitaine is also offering its annual Thanksgiving pre-order menu for four for $310, with pickup on Wednesday, November 25, from 11 a.m. 3:30 p.m. The menu includes roast turkey breast and braised turkey leg, Apple & Sage Stuffing, Pommes Robuchon, Roasted Cauliflower Agrodolce, Autumn Butternut Succotash, cranberry sauce, gravy, and French dinner rolls. Guests can also add options including Charcuterie & Cheese, Shrimp Cocktail, Cider Braised Short Ribs, Truffled Mushroom Lasagna, and pies.

3) Seeking a special holiday dinner experience? On Wednesday, December 9, A Tavola, in Winchester (One of my Top Five Favorite Restaurants) will be collaborating Heaven Hill Distillery for an epic dinner: BOURBON. BIRDS. BBQ. This will be a 5 Course dinner, paired with bourbons, and it surely will be an excellent event. I've previously gone to their BBQ dinners, and they have been impressive and delicious. Advance tickets are now on sale, priced at $125 per person. You can call to make a Reservation at 781-729-1040. This event is sure to sell out so I recommend making your reservation as soon as you can. I've already got my reservation and hope to see some of my readers there as well. 

Monday, October 5, 2026

Rant: Eliminate Drink Stereotypes!

Over the weekend, I presided over a Sake Tasting, showcasing four different Junmai Sakes, from light & fruity to earthy & umami-dominant. A number of customers were hesitant to try the Sake because of their prior negative experiences. They probably had cheap Sake, mostly hot, and found it too harsh, or it gave them a terrible hangover. 

Fortunately, after a little persuasion, pointing out that these were premium Sakes, very different from what they previously tasted, they were willing to give it a try. And they were surprised that they enjoyed the Sake! It was very different from their prior bad experiences, and most of them ended up purchasing a bottle. They realized that their negative stereotype about Sake had been incorrect. 

There are drink categories, such as Beer, which I generally dislike, especially hoppy beers. It would be simple for me to never drink any beer, but I don't write off the entire category. I've found, by willing to try something different, that I commonly like Sour Beers, and I love the Backacre Sour Golden Ale (sadly not produced in Vermont any longer), and have about 12 bottles in my wine cellar.    

Unfortunately, I have seen too many people stereotype certain categories and types of alcoholic beverages. For example, some claim to hate all Chardonnay, Port, Sherry, or Mezcal, and won't ever drink it, refusing any offers to sample it. When presented with a new bottle, they will refuse to even take a sip, already convinced they will hate it. They wrongfully assume that all the examples of that type of beverage are the same, so they believe they will hate it.

I strongly encourage my readers to avoid such stereotypes and be open to the myriad diversity in alcoholic beverages. I know that even if I dislike 95% of the beers on the market, that still leaves 5% which I may greatly enjoy. I refuse to stop sampling and tasting beers even though I will dislike most of them.  

You should be open to tasting new beverages, even if you've disliked others of that beverage in the past. Maybe you actually only dislike oaky Chardoanny but would love an unoaked version. Maybe you've hated hot Sake but would like a fine, chilled Sake. Maybe you hate sweet Sherry, but might enjoy a dry Manzanilla. Be adventurous with your palate and willing to taste new drinks.

Please don't write off an entire category of drinks. The diversity of beverages means you are likely to find something you will enjoy. By denying an entire category, you shut yourself off to a myriad of possibilities, and life is too short to do that. Be open to sampling everything you can, taking a chance on something new and different. Experience all that life has to offer and I'm sure your life will be richer for it. And that applies to many aspects of our lives, not just beverages.

Celebrate diversity in all its forms! 

Thursday, October 1, 2026

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) Salt & Straw’s Halloween Series is back, bringing five spooky, candy filled flavors to scoop shops nationwide. Available through November 1, this year’s lineup leans into the playful side of Halloween, finding inspiration in everything from a trick or treater’s dream candy stash, to edible chocolate-covered creepy crawlers and nostalgic confections.

Additionally, on October 30 and 31, guests who trick or treat at Salt & Straw can also dress up their scoop with a free Halloween upgrade featuring black and orange sprinkles, whipped cream and a sugar cone, plus a limited edition sticker designed by Portland artist Mike Bennett, available while supplies last.

Flavors in The Halloween Series include:
The Great Candycopia – A trick or treater’s bag of chocolate candies including Crunch Bars, Reese’s, Snickers and Heath dumped into salted butterscotch ice cream, with chocolate feuilletine, peanut butter and BOOrbon vanilla toffee throughout.
Jack O’Lantern Pumpkin Bread – Pumpkin spiced ice cream with hunks of pumpkin bread and generous ribbons of whipped cream cheese frosting.
Witch’s Brew Fruit Punch Sherbet – A refreshing fruit punch sherbet bursting with orange flavored candy and finished with ribbons of sour candy apple.
Creepy Crawly Critters – Sweet green matcha ice cream scattered with candy coated chocolate crickets and toffee brittle mealworms, made in collaboration with Don Bugito. (Yes! There are real insects!)
Chocolate Graveyard Cookie Crumble (v) – Dairy free black cocoa coconut cream with black cocoa cookie crumbles and crimson swirls of vegan white chocolate frosting.

2)
During the entire month of October, Maple & Ash in the Seaport will feature a cocktail with a cause for Breast Cancer Awareness Month: Second Chances with Grey Goose, housemade fig vermouth, spiced pear, cranberry-apple, and citrus. The cocktail costs $20 and with each purchased, Maple & Ash will donate $2 to The Ellie Fund in collaboration with Bacardi Limited.

3) Croatian Premium Wine Imports has announced their next Masterclass, focused on the region of Istria, on Tuesday, October 27 at 8 pm Eastern/5 pm Pacific. The class will start with an intro to Croatian regions and then focus on Istrian regions and winemaking as well as taste four wines: two whites – a Malvasia and a blend with Malvasia, followed by two reds – a coastal Teran as well as a Teran from Motovun, which have very different expressions. 

No purchase is necessary. If you register HERE you will get a link to the Zoom video call, where they always take Q&As, or if you cannot join them, they will also send registrants the recording and slides.

If you want to taste the wines along with them during the Zoom, they are offering these four wines as an Istrian Masterclass Bundle at a 15% discount. East Coasters should order by October 15 to make sure they receive the wines in time for the Masterclass. The bundle includes:
Damjanic Malvazija
Franković Filiam Blend
Ritoša Teran
Fakin Teran

I've been to the Istria region, and loved their wines. Many people may know about the Dalmatia region, which is the most popular tourist destination in Croatia, but Istria is very worthy of your attention.

Tuesday, September 29, 2026

Amabuki Yamahai Junmai Omachi: An Intriguing Sake Made with Marigold Yeast

Most Sake is produced using Sake yeast, and there are a variety of commercial yeasts available, and each type has a specific profile. Other breweries may use native yeasts, although that's a riskier proposition, but can also create more unique aromas and flavors. And still other breweries have adopted the use of flower yeasts, derived from a variety of flowers and fruits. You can find flower yeasts from sunflowers, begonia, rhododendron, bananas, strawberries, apples, and more. New flower yeasts also continue to be produced. 

The Amabuki Yamahai Junmai Omachi ($36.95) is a new arrival at Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet, in Melrose. The Amabuki Shuzo was founded in 1688, making it almost 340 years old, in the Saga Prefecture, which is located in the northern section of Kyushu Island. The brewery acquired its name from Mt. Amabuki, part of the Sefuri mountain range. The brewery's motto is "Onko Sousei," which means, “we learn from the past and create new and better things.” They also state, "We brew sake that makes you relax and enjoy your precious time."  

The brewery also uses a variety of flower yeasts to make their Sake more unique, including strawberry yeast, banana yeast, sunflower yeast, begonia yeast, and more. This particular Sake was brewed with Marigold Yeast, providing some subtle elements of marigold in the aroma and flavors, which the brewery states includes "the sophisticated fragrance and robust flavor of marigold" which is presented well in warmed sake. In Japan, marigolds symbolize jealousy, despair, grief and sadness, although it can also symbolize passion and creativity.  

The Sake was made from 100% Omachi rice, a pure rice strain which was discovered in 1859, and tends to make Sake which is more earthy and herbal, with high acidity. The rice has been polished down to 65%. As a Junmai, the Sake is made with only four ingredients: rice, water, yeast and koji-kin mold. As it is a Yamahai, it's made with an older method of production, using natural lactic acid in the air rather than adding commercial lactic acid. This tends to enhance the umami of the Sake, but is a riskier method of production. 

The Amabuki only has a 15% ABV, and is also gluten-free, with no preservatives or additives. This is a Sake that can be served chilled, but is said to be especially good if served gently warmed or hot, which enhances the effects of the marigold yeast. On the nose, this Sake presents mild floral notes, with an underlying earthiness. On the palate, it's light to medium-bodied, with a complex blend of flavors, including plenty of umami notes, a subtle floral aspect, an earthy backbone, and hints of nuts. Good acidity and a lingering finish. Delicious and intriguing.  

Suggested food pairings include grilled chicken and mushroom dishes, and I'm sure the umami element of the Sake would go great with mushrooms and truffles, as well as Italian dishes, especially made with tomatoes and parmesan cheese. Any food that possesses umami would probably also go well with this Sake. 

I recommend the Amabuki Yamahai Junmai Omachi, and it's a very good example of the impact of flower yeast on Sake, creating unique aromas and flavors, going beyond the usual commercial yeasts. Taste something different!