The Origins of Fried Ice Cream

When's the last time you enjoyed Fried Ice Cream for dessert (or even breakfast)?

It's been years since I've eaten this sweet treat, but there was a time, when I was much younger, when I used to commonly order it when it was available, mostly at Asian and Mexican restaurants. Different restaurants offered their own variations, such as different types of coatings and toppings. The photo above, from ten years ago, is a dish of Fried Ice Cream from the Margaritas's Restaurant, and they still offer this dessert.

It's described on their menu, and priced at $10, as "Sweet vanilla ice cream with a salty crushed pretzel shell, covered in your choice of chocolate sauce, raspberry or strawberry puree, or honey. Mix and match, if you’re feeling loco!" 

Who invented this tasty hot and cold dessert, a melding of frozen ice cream and fried coating? There are two main claims, one alleging it was first served in 1893 during the Chicago World’s Fair. The other claim is that it was created around 1894 by a Philadelphia company. However, evidence for both claims is scant, especially lacking in specific details such as the identity of the person who might have been the actual inventor. 

Through my own research, it appears that the existence of Fried Ice Cream predates 1893, by over 20 years, and thus both of the above claims must fail. However, there doesn't appear to be any specific evidence actually identifying the inventor of this dessert, but we can garner a better understanding of its history over the past 150 years. 

An ancestor to fried ice cream extends back to the Presidency of Thomas Jefferson, who enjoyed ice cream and helped to popularize it in the U.S. The Harper's New Monthly Magazine, April 1879, published an article titled, Dr. Mitchill's Letters From Washington: 1801-1813. Dr. Samuel Latham Mitchill was a prominent U.S. Senator and Representative from New York. One of his letters stated, 
"Washington, February 10, 1802: 'On Tuesday I wrote that I was going to dine with the President [Jefferson]. The party was easy and sociable, as all these parties are. Among other things ice-creams were produced in the form of balls of the frozen material inclosed in covers of warm pastry, exhibiting a curious contrast, as if the ice had just been taken from the oven." Though similar in some respects, this was not yet fried ice cream, and more like an ice cream in a pie crust. 

The first documented reference to fried ice cream that I was able to find was from 1870, over twenty years before its alleged invention in the early 1890s. The Evening Gazette (NY), August 30, 1870, described a grand party, which offered, "All the delicacies of the season. Peaches old and withered, serve in soup dishes, fried ice cream, roast ice, boned eggs, some boned out of a barn, and many other dainty dishes too numerous to mention,…" 

Fried ice cream wasn't mentioned as a new invention, or offered as something unique, so it's possible the dessert existed for a number of years prior to 1870, although it hadn't received any newspaper coverage prior to 1870. 

Five years later, the Cleveland Leader (OH), July 21, 1875, noted that “…the bill of fare on the Detroit boats is more varier than that of any other line of boats leaving Cleveland.” Although the boat only served breakfast, during warm weather, the menu included  “…, with dessert of the usual kind, and fried ice cream, a new dish peculiar to this line of boats.” So, we see fried ice cream was now considered a new creation, not commonly available. So, maybe there was only limited availability in certain areas. And it's interesting to see that it was offered for breakfast! 

The Cincinnati Enquirer (OH), May 6, 1877, mentioned that Dick, a well known eatery, had recently moved to a new location, and would be offering free ice cream on a Sunday. Eventually, they would sell ice cream by the plate or gallon, and “Fried ice-cream or ice-cream with a stick in it will also be served.”

The Houston Post (TX), November 17, 1880, briefly noted, “A Belton confectioner is trying to invent what he calls fried ice cream.” We have already seen that fried ice cream had already been invented, but it might not have yet spread from New York or Ohio down to Texas. 

The Neosho County Republican (KS), September 27, 1883, stated, “The younkers at the Public School say that: ‘Prof. Jones treats them to fried ice cream, occasionally.” Younkers means "youngsters," likely referring to the students at the school. 

On to California! The Mendocino Coast Beacon (CA), October 16, 1886, described a grand ball that would be held soon, and the menu included “fried ice cream for dessert.”

The Inter Lake (MT), June 23, 1893, mentioned that a menu for a party of bachelors included a dessert of “Fried Ice Cream.” 

So, we saw fried ice cream available in New York, Ohio, Kansas, California and Montana, showing that it existed across the country, from coast to coast, before its alleged invention at the World's Fair or by a Philadelphia company. It probably was available in other states as well, although it might not have garnered newspaper coverage in those locations. Could New York have been the origin spot for fried ice cream? 

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The first newspaper article describing the alleged origin of fried ice cream was published in April 1894, and it was reprinted in newspapers in over 35 different states, as far west as Hawaii. This certainly led to many, many people across the country becoming aware of this dessert. These articles claimed that fried ice cream was created by a company in Philadelphia, although curiously, the identity of that company was never mentioned. Why not? It certainly raises my suspicions, and as it appears fried ice cream had existed since 1870, the Philadelphia claim loses credibility. 

The New York Times, April 8, 1894, published an article titled, “Fried Ice Cream. It sounds queer, but it tastes very good.” The article then noted, “A Philadelphia firm makes a specialty of fried ice cream, which is pronounced delicious by all who taste it. A small, solid cake of the cream is enveloped in a thin sheet of pie crust, and then dipped in boiling lard or butter long enough to cook the outside to a crisp. Served immediately, the ice cream is found to be as solidly frozen as when it was first prepared. The process of frying is so quickly accomplished and the pastry is so good a protector that the heat has no chance to reach the frozen cream.” This article is also the first one to describe the process of preparing fried ice cream.  

The Indianapolis Journal (IN), April 15, 1894, added, “Philadelphia, which has always had the reputation of producing the best ice cream in the country, has, during the past winter, gained fresh laurels in this direction by the introduction of fried ice cream. This delicacy is concocted at a number of fashionable cooking schools, and has come to stay.” If it was invented during the winter, then it might have been in late 1893, and not 1894, although specifics are still lacking. 

The Austin American-Statesman (TX), April 23, 1894, mentioned, “A new society fad now looms up in the invention of fried ice cream by a northern inventor. As the success of the new dish, of course, depends on the rapidity of its preparation it is needless to add that the cook and all hands must have their skates on.”

The Logansport Daily Pharos (IN), April 24, 1894, published an advertisement for the Vendome, noting, "Our Fried Ice Cream and Snowball Fritters are the talk of the town." 

The National Tribune (D.C.), April 26, 1894, stated, “Baked or fried ice-cream sounds festive and like unto a fairy tale, but in reality, it seems, is quite a delicious fact. Small hard-frozen cakes of the cream are wrapped in thin coverings of pie crust, dropped in hot fat, fried and served immediately with no apparent loss of coldness or solidarity. The dough and quick work sufficiently guard against even the great heat, but it seems a lot of trouble and a painting-the-lily scheme to try to make ice--cream any better.”

The Morning Journal & Courier (CT), May 1, 1894, had an ad for Ferry’s Bakery & Café, which served Fried Ice Cream, "The Latest Society Fad." 

The Champaign Daily Gazette (IL), May 16, 1894, noted that the Eastern Star of Urbana would give a Pink and White supper at a local Masonic temple. “Fried ice cream will then make its first appearance in Urbana.” As a follow-up, the Champaign Daily Gazette (IL), May 23, 1894, mentioned,“Fried ice cream was served for the first time in Urbana and was voted a success by all who were there in time to sample it. The supply was soon exhausted.”

The Poughkeepsie Eagle-News (NY), June 9, 1894, stated that the latest addition to the bill of fare at Sweet & Grisards restaurant was fried ice cream.

The News & Observer (NC), February 26, 1896, described a situation where a woman asked a caterer whether fried ice cream existed or not. He replied that “fried ice cream was one of the most toothsome dainties on the menu.”

In a cookbook, Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner, or What to Eat and How to Prepare It (1897) by Maud C. Cooke offered a recipe for "Fried Ice Cream.--A small, solid cake of the cream is enveloped in a thin sheet of pie crust, and then dipped in boiling lard or butter long enough to cook the outside to a crisp. Served immediately, the ice cream is found to be as solidly frozen as when it was first prepared. The process of frying is so quickly accomplished, and the pastry is so good a protector, that the heat has no chance to reach the frozen cream. It is pronounced delicious." This recipe isn't any different from what was provided by the newspapers in 1894, so it clearly wasn't Maud's creation. 

In Food, Home and Garden (December 1899), there was an ad for Diamond Butter Oil, mentioning that it was good to use to make Fried Ice Cream. 

Fried ice cream losing its popularity? The Evansville Journal (IN), January 10, 1901, briefly noted, “After the fad for fried ice cream had lived out its day in New York, and just at the time, too, when even novices had learned to dip the sliced ice in the batter and fry it before it melted,…”

There was a recipe in Mrs. Owens’ New Cook Book and Complete Household Manual (1899) by Mrs. Frances E. Owens. The recipe stated, “Fried Ice Cream—Take a small solid cake of any ice cream, enclose securely in a thin sheet of pie crust and immerse in hot fat long enough to cook the paste. Serve at once and the cream will be found to be frozen still.”

The Buffalo Courier Express (NY), April 23, 1902, offered a unique fried ice cream recipe, which they called Ice Cream Croquettes. Rather than just being covered by a thin sheet of pie crust, the frozen ice cream was covered with egg white and then macaroon crumbs before frying. Then, the dessert was served with chocolate sauce, the first mention of any topping for fried ice cream.  

The Blanchardville Blade (WI), April 3, 1903, ran an ad for Camp’s Restaurant & Café, which served, “Fried Ice Cream to Order.”

The World's Fair and fried ice cream! The St. Louis Republic (MO), November 4, 1903, reported on some recent suggestions received at the upcoming World’s Fair for concessions or features which might be considered “eccentric.” One of those included a concession to sell ‘fried ice cream.’ Joseph Sasso, of Lakewood, New York, stated, “It would be served in solid blocks, eaten hot, and yet at the same time cold….This plan of mine has not yet been tried and is my own invention.”

As a follow-up, the Indianapolis Star, (IN) November 7, 1903, reported that Sasso had obtained a concession at the Lousiana Purchase Exposition to sell fried ice cream. “And he contends that he freezes the confection without ice and fries it without fire.” Sasso stated, “The invention is my own, thoroughly practical, and yet, as this will be the first time it shall have been tried, I can not disclose the secrets of my invention. The delicacy which I serve is wholesome, pure and palatable, either in hot or cold weather.” 

There wasn't any mention that fried ice cream had been available at the 1893 World's Fair, and Sasso apparently tried to claim to be the inventor of this dish, although it's possible he was only claiming to have invented his own special process to create this dish. Additional details about Sasso and his creation  are elusive. 

Fried ice cream leading to dates? The Okolona Messenger (MS), November 7, 1906, provided a series of brief ads for David & Bell, such as: “Fried Ice Cream is just the thing for a banquet or club meeting,” “If you set them up to Fried Ice Cream the girls are bound to like you,” and “The most delicious product of the confectioner’s art—Fried Ice Cream.”

The North Alabamian (AL), November 8, 1906, briefly noted, “New product—fried ice cream at Sevier’s.”

The Boston Globe (MA), June 2, 1907, printed this recipe from from Bethra Liedean. This is similar to nearly all of the prior recipes. 

A new quote and comparison about fried ice cream. The Charlotte News (NC), November 6, 1907, briefly noted, “Kisses of hypocrites taste like fried ice cream.” This apparently became a relatively famous quote, that would be repeated in multiple newspapers all across the country, and continued to be repeated in newspapers until at least 1916. 

No explanation of the quote was ever provided, but I suspect it means that the kiss of a hypocrite may feel warm upfront (like the outer warm pastry shell of fried ice cream), but it conceals the coldness of the hypocrite beneath it (the frozen ice cream within).  

A price for fried ice cream. The Clinton Register (IL), June 12, 1908, provided the first known price for this dessert. “Fried ice cream thirteen cents a cake, guaranteed hard enough to crumble. Call at Conner’s café.” This would be about $4.60 today.

The Chicago World's Fair! The Ice Cream Trade Journal, January 1909, published an article on the Origin and Development of the Ice Cream Industry. One section mentioned fried ice cream, claiming it was also known as “Alaska pie” or “Alaska fritters,” although those terms seemed to be rarely used. The article continued, “The method is, briefly, to dip a cube of hard ice cream into a thin fritter batter and then to plunge it into very hot lard or olive oil. The pastry forms a food protector from the heat and hardens so quickly that the cream is not softened in the least. Another more elaborate form is said to be serve in certain New York cafes today.” Unfortunately, the article didn't mention what some New York cafes did differently. 

An intriguing brief item from this article claimed, “The fried ice cream was introduced at the World’s Fair in Chicago in 1893.” No other specifics were provided, such as the identity of the inventor. Note that this claim was made 16 years after the World's Fair, and was the first such mention of a connection. 

The World's Columbian Exposition, also known as the Chicago World's Fair, was held from May 1 to October 31, 1893, to celebrate the 400th anniversary of the arrival of Christopher Columbus in the New World. Later newspapers would repeat the claim that fried ice cream originated at the Fair, but again, none of those references provided any specific details. They simply repeated the same basic allegation. And without any supporting evidence, one has to take this claim with a grain of salt. Plus, the existence of fried ice cream prior to 1893 negates this claim of origin.  

A cartoon from The Bulletin (CA), July 27, 1910. “Got any fried ice cream.”

A new claimant! The Boston Globe (MA), November 4, 1951, ran an article titled, “Boston’s Woman Chef Can Even Fry Ice Cream.” The article was about Kentucky-born Lillian Burchett, who currently worked at the Hotel Puritan in Boston. She was described as, “The lady who dreamed up Black Bottom pie and fried ice cream (you read it right)….” She had a daily radio program, and her work required much research and testing of recipes in the experimental kitchen. “It was in this kitchen that the now famous recipe for fried ice cream was perfected.” 

Lillian stated,“What I was looking for was an ice-cream fritter. Mrs. Bruchett reveals, I’d take very hard vanilla ice-cream balls and roll them in batter but I couldn’t seem to make the batter stick. Finally I found a cereal flake that when mixed with cinnamon and flour stuck when dropped for a moment in hot fat. All you have to do then is pop it in the deep freeze till ready to serve with fudge sauce or as is.” Obviously she couldn't have invented fried ice cream, but she may have created her own variation, using cereal flakes, cinnamon and flour as a coating rather than a thin pice crust or batter.

And one more claimant! The Daily Item (MA), March 25, 1961, noted the existence of fried ice cream in Tokyo. “You get it in the tempura restaurants, where they fry your food in sesame seed deep fat, right in front of you, a bite at a time.” The article continued, “The scoop of frozen ice cream is brought in quick. It is dipped in batter which provides a kind of insulating later. Then the whole thing is plopped into the deep fat and fried like a doughnut for less than a minute. You pick up this fried snowball with chopsticks and nibble away at it.” And the Transcript-Telegram (MA), June 18, 1966, added, “The Japanese invented fried ice cream.” 

Yes, fried ice cream became popular in Japanese restaurants in the 1960s, spreading to other Asian restaurants as well, but there's again no evidence that the Japanese invented it. Ice cream first came to Japan around 1869, but we already have seen that fried ice cream existed in the U.S. since at least 1870, so it would be near impossible for Japan to have invented it. 

So, we don't know exactly who invented Fried Ice Cream, but we see that it has existed since at least 1870, and maybe earlier. We have seen though that the two main claimants to having invented it, the World's Fair in 1893 and a Philadelphia company in 1894, lack supporting evidence and their claims were over 20 years after the first documented mention of fried ice cream. So, their claims must fail. 

Where have you recently enjoyed fried ice cream?

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) With the snow and brutal cold, dining out next to a Fireplace can be pleasing. So, here's a couple options for this experience. 

One of the best kept secrets about steakhouse Abe & Louie’s is their cozy fireplace table in the rear of the restaurant. Flanked by a pair of high-backed chairs, this intimate table-for-two is perfect for sharing a bottle from its award-winning wine list while indulging in one of their premium 40-ounce cuts – a tomahawk ribeye, or porterhouse – prepared for two.

In Wayland, Coach Grill’s dining room has a homey feel with ornate draperies and a fiery hearth carved into stonework. There is also a fireplace in the second dining room. Warm up with a French onion soup au gratin or clam chowder before diving into the menu of signature steaks, chops and seafood. Coach Grill also offers specialty “plats du jour” each evening ranging from crab-stuffed shrimp to lobster ravioli and steak Diane.

2) For couples seeking a refined, food-driven Valentine’s Day in Boston, Vermilion is offering a decadent, three-night prix fixe designed for sharing, indulgence, and classic technique.

Available Thursday, February 12 through Saturday, February 14, the $125 per person Valentine’s Day menu opens with elevated hors d’oeuvres meant to be shared, including a Kaluga caviar sandwich with egg salad and a shellfish plateau for two featuring oysters, shrimp, scallops, and Champagne mignonette, alongside black truffle arancini finished with Grana Padana and lemon aioli.  

Guests then choose from starters such as beef tartare with hazelnut dukkah and Aleppo, lobster risotto enriched with lobster bisque and black truffle, or a reimagined wedge with Gorgonzola and hot house tomatoes. Entrées range from maple-mustard glazed salmon and filet with bordelaise to mezze rigatoni amatriciana, with a porterhouse for two available as a celebratory supplement. Dessert selections lean playful and indulgent, from NY cheesecake to a chocolate raspberry tart with cassis sorbet, a fitting finale to a menu rooted in classic flavors with modern restraint. 

You can make reservations online HERE.

Rant: Breaking Food "Rules"

Banana Cream Pie for breakfast?

Last Friday morning, I enjoyed a tasty breakfast at the Agawam Diner in Rowley, an 85 year old restaurant that's also well known for its home-made pies. I opted for steak and eggs, with home fries and toast, and afterwards, I decided to go a non-traditional route, and order dessert. 

Our server certainly didn't ask me if I desired dessert. And I've never had breakfast where my server asked me if I wanted dessert. I had to ask for it, although my server didn't hesitate when I asked. 

I ordered a slice of their Banana Cream Pie. I've previously raved about their Cream Pies, and I wanted a slice, even though traditional food "rules" assign dessert to after dinner. This is an artificial division, a tyranny of the plate, where people have been conditioned to follow unwritten rules about what's proper to eat at different times during the day. Forget those rules!

I call for a revolution of the plate, calling on other rebels who seek to cast down the old food rules, and ignore the authorities who try to dictate what we eat and when we eat it. It's time to destroy these silly barriers and embrace freedom where we can choose to eat any food we want, at any time of the day. 

With all of the sweet breakfast dishes that are often available, such as pancake stacks topped by sweet fruit compotes and whipped cream, or icing-covered cinnamon rolls, its certainly not a stretch to embrace a slice of cream pie. It's more of a psychological issue, where conditioning prevents some people from considering pie, or dessert, appropriate for breakfast. 

In a similar vein, I enjoy traditional breakfast dishes for breakfast and dinner. I should be able to have a waffle or bacon and eggs at any time during there day. There are no valid reasons why such foods must be relegated only to the morning. Let us rebels enjoy them in the morning, afternoon, and evening. 

Break these food "rules" and free the plate!

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) Here are some Valentine's Day offerings:

Back Bay steakhouse Abe & Louie’s will be dishing out a collection of specials over four nights. To start, there is steak tartare with roasted bone marrow aioli, pickled shallots and brioche ($32), or butter-poached lobster salad with frisee, Meyer lemon and black truffle vinaigrette ($38). For entrees, there’s a four-ounce A5 wagyu tenderloin with roasted maitake mushrooms ($155), and Chilean seabass with braised endive, brown butter and lemon ($70). For something sweet, dig into a chocolate pot de crème with strawberry and Maldon salt ($15). The featured “Romance Wines” are Lambrusco Chiarli Vecchia Modena Italy ($14) and Whispering Rose rosé ($15).
Reservations from February 12-15. Please call (617) 536-6300.  

Atlantic Fish Co. will feature their full menu of seafood classics in addition to five specials. Start with wild striped bass ceviche with cucumber, pepper and tomato in a cilantro-citrus glaze ($26), or orange-pecan salad with baby lettuce, red onion, tomato and blue cheese in a red wine vinaigrette ($19). From the sea, the entrees are lobster and truffle risotto with marinated tomatoes, snow peas and fresh truffles ($65) and pan-seared wild striped bass with saffron nage, blistered tomato, fingerling potatoes and haricot verts ($60). For dessert? A passionfruit pot de crème with chocolate-covered long stem strawberries ($18) and to sip ($17), there’s the French Kiss with cognac, Cointreau and lemon, as well as Love Potion with Sipsmith gin, pomegranate, lemon, egg white and bubbles.
Reservations from February 12-15. Please call (617) 267-4000.  

Coach Grill, win Wayland, will feature à la carte specials in addition to their nightly menu. For appetizers, there is lobster bisque with crème fraîche and chives ($17), or a red beet salad with spinach, goat cheese, citrus and red wine vinaigrette ($17). For entrees, opt for a petit filet mignon with roasted potatoes and cognac sauce ($58), or pan-seared Atlantic cod with coconut rice and mango salsa ($48). For dessert, indulge in shortcake with macerated berries and whipped cream ($15). The cocktail feature is the Chocolate Covered Strawberry with vodka, white chocolate liqueur and strawberry in a chocolate-rimmed glass ($17).
Reservations from February 12-15. Please call (508) 358-5900. 

Perched atop The Newbury Boston, guests at Contessa  will enjoy an intimate dining experience ($195 per person; gratuity included) complete with Contessa’s signature Italian-inspired cuisine. To start, the antipasti featured includes Tonnato Crudo, thinly sliced raw tuna, artichoke hearts, and anchovy; Daily Imported Burrata, featuring pomodorini, and basil; or the Caviar Bruschetta (supplement +$55). For the primi course, guests will dine on Spicy Lobster Rigatoni. The secondi course features either a choice of a Filet with Black Truffle Sauce or Grilled Mediterranean Branzino. To end on a sweet note, enjoy either Nutella Fudge Cake or Handspun Coffee Gelato.

Reservations are available from 5pm-11pm on Valentine's Day. Please call (617) 741-3404. 

Cupid has his sights set on XOXO Sushi Bar in Chestnut Hill this Valentine’s Day weekend. From February 13-15, Chef Kegan Stritchko will present a luxe, multi-course jukusei omakase tasting menu utilizing XOXO’s advanced in-house dry-aged and jukusei technique – “aging” in Japanese, where fish used in sushi is salted or soaked in vinegar then matured for several days – that features local and rare sea treasures designed with indulgent and intriguing flavor profiles. For three nights, the jukusei omakase experience will be showcased over 11-courses ($175 per guest): an Island Creek oyster with leche de tigre and dill; hirame usuzukuri with yuzu dashi, candied quinoa and lemon zest; madai and shima aji nigiri; chef’s choice of five pieces of sashimi; hiramasa and Ora King salmon nigiri; chawanmushi with savory egg custard, snow crab and ikura; bluefin tuna and akamutsu nigiri; a negitoro handroll with bluefin tuna belly, scallion and shiso; grilled langoustine with miso butter, kimchi and chili oil; A5 wagyu beef tartare with black garlic, caviar and taro root; and a dessert of Thai chili chocolate ice cream with chocolate ganache and cranberry gel.
Reservations are available for February 13 - 15 beginning at 5pm. Please call (617) 505-3378. 

Downtown Haverhill hotspot BOSA Coastal Italian will celebrate Valentine's Day with a four-course prix-fixe menu ($75 per person). For the first-course, guests can choose from a Caesar Salad, Arancini, Beet Salad, Burrata Bruschetta, or Chilled Tuna Crudo. Second-course options include Paccheri Pasta, Gnocchi Pesto, or Mushroom Agnolotti, served with fresh shaved black truffle, creamy ricotta, brown butter, crispy parmesan, and green onion. The third-course features a variety of entrées, including Crispy Chicken Milanese, White Bolognese, Baked Chicken Parmesan, Butternut Squash Risotto, Baked Cod, and Land & Sea—a petite filet and jumbo prawns served with red wine demi and braised cipollini. To end on a sweet note, guests can indulge in Tiramisu, Cannoli, a Brownie Skillet Sundae, or Basque Cheesecake, served with a raspberry compote, Chantilly cream, and citrus. 

Reservations are available for Valentine's Day. Please call (978) 641-3149. 

History of the Porto Tonico, A Refreshing Portuguese Cocktail

In Portugal, during the summer, Porto Tonico (White Port & Tonic) is a common cocktail, being considered light and refreshing. However, many Americans are unfamiliar with White Port, known to the Portuguese as Porto Branco. Americans generally know about Ruby and Tawny Ports, often believing that all Port must be red. That's understandable as only about 10% of all Port production is White Port, and it can be difficult to find in the U.S. 

However, White Port appears to be probably as old as Red Port, extending back to the late 17th century. White Port was first exported to the U.S. in the first half of the 18th century, and those imports included old White Ports as well as Vintage White Ports! Aged White Ports are still produced and they can be wonderful and complex wines. 

In general, a White Port and Tonic is made with ratio of one part White Port and two parts Tonic Water, with a slice of lemon or lime, but variations exist. In the picture above, there's a Porto Tonico which I enjoyed at the Quinta da Pacheca in the Douro region of Portugal. It was made with Pacheca White Port, tonic water, lemon and a cinnamon stick. It was refreshing and bright, with only a mild sweetness, and it's easy to understand why these Port Tonics are so popular during the summer. 

The exact origins of Port and Tonic in Portugal are unknown, but we can gain an understanding of its first appearances in the U.S. California once produced many sweet, Port-style wines so it's not a stretch to believe the first Port and Tonic cocktail recipes in the U.S. called for red California Port. I'll also note some of the first appearances of Port and Tonic in other countries. 

The first U.S. newspaper to mention Port and Tonic was about 60 years ago, the San Jose Evening News (CA), July 27, 1966. The article mentioned a recent trend for a "little bitterness in beverages." The article continued, "As it is produced in California, Port is sweet, fruity, and heavy-bodied. It is usually served as a dessert wine to sip with fruit and cheese or to drink in front of the fireplace with an apple and a bowl of nuts at hand. But it has taken on a new image now that its affinity for quinine water has been discovered." Quinine water is more commonly known now as tonic water. 

The article added, "Port and Tonic are very friendly. Mixed in a tall glass with ice and a garnish of lemon, the combination is extremely refreshing." It was also mentioned that this cocktail is visually appealing, as the deep red color of the Port looks even better partially diluted with tonic water. The basic recipe was, "For taste and appearance, two parts of quinine water to one part Port creates a nice balance between the bitter and sweet." 

This same article was reprinted in newspapers in Louisiana, Washington, Texas, and possibly other states as well. So, a fair amount of people across the country may have seen this article and recipe. It's important to note though that this recipe called for a Red Port, and not a White Port. 

Port & Tonic in England. One of the first mentions of Port & Tonic in England was in the Eastern Daily Press (Norwich, England), November 12, 1968. The newspaper provided the above recipe, which is a little different from the prior U.S. recipe. The English one called for a Ruby or Tawny Port, also red like in the U.S. recipe. However, the ratio was different, with the English recipe calling for equal parts of Port and Tonic. 

The Birmingham Post (Birmingham, England), December 5, 1968, noted that Port was coming back into fashion, and the article provided recipes for a number of mixed drinks. It noted, "Port and tonic: Another cool one, bitter-sweet and sparkling." Then, it gave the recipe, "Mix 1 part ruby ot tawny port wine, 1 part tonic water, ice." The article also provided recipes for other Port cocktails, including Port and Pepsi, Port Fizz, Port Punch, and others, all made with Ruby or Tawny Ports. 

The Birmingham Evening Mail, (Birmingham, England), May 29, 1969, provided the first mention of White Port & Tonic. In an article about a journey to northern Portugal, the writer mentioned that he visited the Sandeman Wine Lodge. He stated, "... I learned that port need not only be a warming after-dinner drink on a cold day but a fresh cool apertif on a warm one--Sandemans served white port with tonic and ice in tall glasses." So, we thus know that White Port and Tonic existed in Portugal since at least the late 1960s, and probably even earlier. 

The San Francisco Chronicle (CA), May 3, 1970, published the above photo of a Port & Tonic cocktail and the accompanying recipe. Again, we see it used a red Port, not a white Port. 

The St. Helena Star (CA), October 29, 1970, provided a recipe for Port & Tonic, which appears to have become by that time the standard one in the U.S.  

The Corpus Christi Caller-Times (TX), November 26, 1970, published a similar recipe as did the Sacramento Union (CA), August 25, 1971, in their recipe for "California Port and Tonic."

The first mention in the U.S. of White Port in this type of cocktail was in the San Antonio News (TX), August 26, 1971. In a grocery store advertisement, they presented a recipe for a "Strawberry White Port." It called for 4 ounces of California Gallo White Port, iced tonic water, 1/2 ounce of strawberry liqueur, a slice of lemon, and a strawberry garnish. 

The Times-Picayune (LA), August 2, 1973, in an article on wine coolers, provided a recipe for Port & Tonic, calling for 1 cup of Port to 2 cups tonic water, adding crushed ice and lemon wedges for garnish.

The Morning Call (PA), June 29, 1974, briefly noted, "This time of the year also causes an upsurge in 'cool' drinks --gin and vodka tonics and the like. A newer one, we're told, is port wine and tonic." Maybe Port & Tonic wasn't too well known in the U.S. at this time. 

Articles in the Richmond Times-Dispatch (VA), August 25, 1974, the Mobile Press (AL), August 28, 1975, and the Palm Beach Post (FL), December 10, 1975, all provided Port & Tonic recipes, confirming to the prior standard. 

White Port again! The Evening Standard (London, England), October 22, 1985, noted, "... I can commend white port and tonic as a refreshing mid-morning drink on one's day off." Morning drinking? Why not? 

It doesn't seem until the 1990s that White Port & Tonic really took off outside of Portugal. 

The Syndney Morning Herald (Australia), October 27, 1992, mentioned that Port wine shippers were trying new things to boost sales, including "dry white port and tonic as an appetiser." 

The Edmonton Journal (Canada), November 3, 1993, reported that "a favorite tipple at Paris cocktail parties this year is white port over ice." The article provided a recipe they called the Sandeman Splash, which was made with 1 part white Port, 1 part tonic water, ice, and a lemon slice. Note that the ratio of Port to tonic water is one for one, unlike the standard of one part Port to two parts tonic water. The article also mentioned that for something lighter, you could make it with one part Ruby Port, two parts tonic water, and a twist of orange. 

The Edmonton Journal (Canada), November 16, 1994, noted that at a Portuguese party, many of the guests were introduced to a new apertif, white Port and tonic. 

Back in the U.S.., the Arizona Republic (AZ), March 8, 1995, stated, "Mixing white Port with tonic water makes a most pleasant drink. Serve over ice in a tall glass with a slice of lemon or lime. It makes a wonderful contrast to smoked meats and fish, spicy or salty foods." The News and Observer (NC), May 26, 1995, in an article on hot weather drinks, it noted, "A white port served with tonic in a highball glass on ice, with or without lime."

The Cambridge Evening News (Cambridge, England), January 28, 1997, stated that for Valentine's Day, try "a chilled white port or add tonic and a twist of lemon for a long refreshing drink." And the Evening Press (York, England), February 1, 1997, mentioned that "...for that romantic evening try chilled white port with tonic and a twist of lemon as an apertif." 

The Worcester News (Worcester, England), September 5, 1997, wrote, "No drink is as welcome on a warm day as a long, tall glass packed with ice and a good measure of white port topped up with tonic water." The article continued, "This is the favorite drink of the port producers as they while away their time in the vineyards up the Douro waiting for the harvest to begin."

The first mention of the term "Porto Tonico" didn't occur in the U.S. until 2018. The Chicago Tribune (IL), November 18, 2018, first noted that Taylor, one of the largest Port houses, allocated about 500 cases of its Chip Dry White Port to the U.S. for the first time since the 1990s. This Port was fermented longer than other white Ports so it possessed a dry finish. It was also aged in oak to temper its sweetness.

As for the Porto Tonico, the article noted, "In Portugal, the drink is served before nearly every big meal, alongside snacks like Marcona almonds and slipper sardines, as something not--too-boozy to sip before the main event." It also mentioned, "The cocktail, tall and chilled, made with a crisp white port rather than the raisin-y red stuff, is a staple up and down the Portuguese coast." Some people garnished it with mint or orange zest. Finally, it was mentioned that, "Back in the U.S., the drink is harder to find."

Beatriz Machado, the wine director at the famed Yeatman Hotel, provided her own recipe for a Porto Tonico, which was composed of 3 ounces dry white Port, 2 ounces of tonic water, and 1 slice of orange zest. 

Hopefully you've been intrigued enough to want to try a White Port and Tonic. If you enjoy a Vodka Tonic or Gin & Tonic, it makes for an intriguing and tasty variation. It also has less alcohol than Vodka and Gin. Anyone who desires a refreshing cocktail, with a nice balance of sweet and bitter, should give it a try. It's great during the summer, but you can enjoy it year round. The next time you have guests over, provide them White Port and Tonic as a new cocktail. It's simple to make, but I'm sure your guests would enjoy it.