Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) This December, Santa Claus is coming to town – particularly the North End and Wayland – to host holiday brunches for festive families at Coach Grill (December 7) and Joe’s Waterfront (December 15).

While kiddies patiently await the arrival of their honored guest with cookie decorating, guardians can settle in for a leisurely brunch. In addition to serving their signature brunch menus, the kitchens will be whipping up adult-friendly breakfast delights for the occasion like stuffed crêpes ($14) with housemade Chantilly cream and fresh strawberries; bananas foster French toast ($18) with cream cheese frosting and maple syrup; Florentine eggs benedict ($20) with sauteed spinach, hollandaise and breakfast potatoes; and a Maine lobster omelet ($28) with chives, breakfast potatoes and toast. For the little ones, there are tree-shaped Christmas chip pancakes ($14) and a grilled chicken quesadilla ($11).

After capturing the perfect IG-worthy snap with your little ones and Mr. Claus, treat yourself to something sweet like the specialty peppermint ice cream pie ($12) in a cookie crust. There also are themed adult libations like the Bahh Humbug with Basil Hayden bourbon, housemade hot chocolate and mini marshmallows as well as kid-approved mocktails like Grinch Punch with lime sorbet, green punch, Sprite and a red sugar rim. While supplies last, grab a keepsake ornament as you exit your morning in the North Pole.

WHEN: Coach Grill: Saturday, December 7, 11am-2pm; Joe’s Waterfront: Sunday, December 15, 10am-1pm
COST: Complimentary admission. Special available at à la carte pricing.
Coach Grill: Reservations are recommended via OpenTable. 
Joe’s Waterfront: Reservations are recommended via OpenTable. 

2) MAZÍ Food Group (Gigi, Ilona, Kava Neo-Taverna) has debuted the newest addition in its growing restaurant collection: Desnuda Cocina & Bar. Located in the famed 647 Tremont Street space, the bilevel Desnuda Cocina & Bar brings two distinct concepts to the South End with its lower-level sound bar and an epicurean experience featuring bold Latin and Asian flavors.

Venturing downstairs to the sound bar – a concept created in Japan in the 1950s – the walls are lined with vertical wood panels where mood lighting peeks through the slats. Inside the hideaway, there is an expansive bar in addition to more intimate seating anchored by giraffe-print banquettes and a half-moon booth that sits beneath a glittering spherical light fixture. The backbar displays Desnuda’s collection of retro vinyl records, the heartbeat of the sultry and vibrant sound bar, that will be amplified over a customized vinyl sound system. The immersive, eclectic urban music experience will be curated with themed nights, guest deejays and mixologist-selected playlists complemented by deliciously complex cocktails and a late-night menu of small plates available after 10:00pm.

Upstairs, MAZÍ Food Group’s executive chef Jesus Preciado has reimagined a menu rooted in core Latin-Asian tastes and textures. With a passion for sourcing locally, Chef Preciado’s menu of ceviches, baos and proteins are intended to be ordered in multiples to encourage a social dining experience. Highlights from the menu include the catch-of-the-day ceviche clasico with leche de tigre, habanero, corn, chancha, sweet potato, red onions and cilantro; pork belly bao bun with braised pork belly, cucumber, pickled vegetables and soy reduction; acevichado roll, tempura white fish, tuna, salsa acevichada, sweet potato puree and togarashi; aji de gallina, shredded chicken, huancaina sauce, heavy cream, parmesan, olive aioli, rice, potato and boiled eggs; and arroz con pato, duck leg confit, aborio rice, vegetables and cilantro sauce.

On the liquid side, Desnuda Cocina & Bar features a beverage program that mixes timeless techniques with progressive twists while showcasing globally-represented wines and spirits including a collection of tequilas and mezcals as well as Japanese whiskys, gins and sakes. Standouts are Beet the Heat with spicy pisco, yuzu liqueur, beet syrup and lemon as well as Amarillo Passion with tequila, yuzu liqueur, aji amarillo, passionfruit syrup and lime.

Desnuda Cocina & Bar is open daily beginning at 4:00pm. In the coming weeks, Desnuda Cocina & Bar plans to reprise the epic weekend brunch party from the location’s yesteryears.

3) BOSA Coastal Italian, in Haverhill, has recently launched Brunch with an Italian flair and unique flavors when it comes to classic and contemporary dishes on Saturdays and Sundays, from 11am-3pm.

Enjoying starters like Burrata, olive oil, arugula, vincotto, sesame crunch, parmesan frico, confit tomato, maldon salt; Italian Wedding Soup, rich chicken brodo, sofrito, spinach, fregula, petite meatballs, parmesan, even add an egg. For main dishes, choose from unique brunch staples like the Banana Bread French Toast, sweet ricotta filling, fig jam, berries, maple syrup, cannoli crumbs, Chantilly cream; the Breakfast Burger, cheddar, pancetta, sunny egg, baby lettuce, tomato, Calabrian chili aioli; or the Brunch Pizza, chorizo, potatoes, melted leeks, spinach, cheddar, mozzarella, sunny egg; Snack on a Panuozzo Sandwich, a Neapolitan-style Italian sandwich made with pizza dough, and BOSA uses Sal’s Pizza’s own dough, made fresh every day, like the Ham & Cheese, prosciutto cotto, cheddar, arugula, scrambled eggs, chili mayo, scallions. For those looking for a classic favorite can nosh on Scrambled Eggs & Home Fries, complete with eggs and cheddar.

BOSA’s brunch cocktails include the BOSA Mimosa, Prosecco, orange juice, Bauchant Orange Liqueur; Gran Espresso, vanilla bean induced White Squall Vodka, Borghetti Coffee Liqueur, espresso. There are also shareable drinks like the Spicy Sophia (Loren), Corvus Grilled Pineapple Vodka, lime juice, tropical sour mix, spice chipotle simple syrup, tajin spiced rim, served in a whole pineapple; Mimosa Flight, one bottle of Prosecco, black cherry purée, white peach purée, and blood orange purée.

To make reservations visit www.bosaitalian.com. 

Rant: Don't Be A Selfish, Greedy Glutton

With the holiday season upon us, food and drink blogs are ramping up their holiday coverage. You'll soon read epic tales of sumptuous feasts, accompanied by expensive and rare bottles of wine. You'll find plenty of holiday recipes, describing how to prepare some of the most decadent dishes. You'll be regaled with tales of pricey gifts received, from costly electronics to tropical vacations. Colorful photos will display all of these hedonistic pleasures in their luxuriant glory.

However, I want to see something else, something more meaningful. Are you up to the challenge?

I don't want to be regaled by selfish, greedy gluttons. Instead, I want to hear about charitable efforts to help those less fortunate. This should be a time of generosity and charity, of giving to others rather than feeding our own gluttony. Though many love the holiday season, it can be a very sad time for those with little or nothing. Every community has some people who find it difficult merely to pay for basic essentials. Share your largess with others, helping those who truly need it.

Even for those of us who are having tough economic times, we all probably can help out others, even if only in little ways. If you cannot spare money, then donate your time or make something to give to others, maybe bake a pie, cookies or casserole. Donate old clothes or other durable items which you no longer use. There are many different ways to help out others besides just monetary donations. All it takes is a little creativity and thought.

During this season, there are numerous restaurants, chefs, stores and others which are holding special charitable events. Promote those events on your blogs, spreading the word far and wide. Attend those events, encouraging others to do the same. Give to your favorite charities, whatever they might be. Just don't revel in selfish, greedy gluttony, ignoring the plight of others.

This applies to our readers as well and I encourage all of you to be charitable as well, in whatever way that you can. Be creative in your efforts, even if your own finances are tight. That would be the best gift I could receive from my readers, the knowledge that you have all helped out those less fortunate.

Let us share with all during this joyous holiday season.

Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet: Happy 3 Month Anniversary

Today's the 3 Month Anniversary of the new Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet in Melrose, which replaced the former Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet. I worked at Beacon Hill for about 12 years, and have continued to work at the new Victoria Hill. So, let me share some of my thoughts and insights about the first three months of the new shop. 

First, the new owners, Vijay, Andy, Brian and Puja, are very sincere and hardworking, and intend the shop to be an artisan wine, beer and spirits shop. They are not seeking to turn it into a package store or convenience store. It's intended to be a destination shop, and not merely a neighborhood shop, so that people from all of the surrounding communities will want to shop there too. And the changes they have already initiated have largely moved towards the achievement of that objective. 

Second, the shop is obviously still a work in progress, and more changes will be coming over the next months. During the past three months, there has been much positive progress moving forward, and the new owners have various plans for the future, all continuing to move towards their primary objective. Many customers have been complimentary about the various changes. 

Third, the new owners have been expanding the available selections, both alcohol and gourmet food, on a variety of levels. There are numerous new beer selections, from local brews to beers from places like China and the Philippines. The whiskey selection has expanded, including some harder to find selections, from Blanton's Bourbon to Buffalo Trace. And there have been some additional intriguing new spirits, from Chartreuse to Japanese Vermouth.

Of particular interest to me, the wine selection has become larger and more diverse. The shop now carries over 500 different wines and Sake, from 19 countries, including: Argentina, Australia, Austria, Chile, Croatia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Italy, Japan, Lebanon, Luxembourg, New Zealand, Portugal, South Africa, Spain, Switzerland, and the United States (California, New York, Oregon and Washington). And more wines are coming, including some from other countries, maybe including places like Armenia, Great Britain, Mexico, Moldova, Turkey and Uruguay. Numerous more natural wines are also on the shelves. 

Fourth, I now conduct Wine Tastings every Thursday evening, from 5-7pm, and every Saturday, from 1-4pm. I try to showcase all of the different wines we now carry, to expose people to the diversity of wine. Customers seem to be very appreciative of this approach, and open to trying more unique wines. We have plenty of repeat customers who regularly come to the tastings to experience new wines. The shop also conducts Beer Tastings on Friday nights. Please come by at any of these times to expand your palate and taste some delicious and fascinating new wines and beers.  

Fifth, some of the physical changes to the store include new lighting, to make the store brighter, and a new chiller case, which holds wines, single beers, and hard seltzers. Additional wine shelves have been added, with more to come, allowing the shop to stock even more of a diversity of wine selections.  

Much positive progress has been made, and it will continue in the future. If you live in Melrose, check out Victoria Hill and see what your new neighborhood wine, beer & spirits shop has to offer. If you live outside Melrose, please also check out Victoria Hill as you are likely to find a number of selections that aren't available at your own neighborhood wine shop. Victoria Hill is intended to be a destination spot, where people from all of the surrounding communities will want to come because of its unique and diverse selection.

Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet
538 Main Street, Melrose
(781) 665-3332
Monday to Wednesday: 10am-8pm, Thursday to Saturday: 10am-9pm; Sunday: 10am-7pm. 

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) Some Thanksgiving dinner choices, so you don't have to cook. 

Abe & Louie’s: This Back Bay steakhouse will be dishing out a customizable three-course prix fixe menu ($78) this Thanksgiving in addition to serving their a la carte menu. To start, there is a butternut squash soup with crème fraiche and candied pumpkin seeds, or a roasted beet and goat cheese salad with pistachio, dill and aged balsamic. For entrees, there’s roasted turkey breast with braised dark meat, whipped potatoes, stuffing, roasted Brussels sprouts, cranberry sauce and gravy, or an eight-ounce filet mignon served with a twice-baked potato, horseradish cream and bordelaise. For something sweet, dig into the pumpkin cheesecake topped with vanilla whipped cream. 

Reservations from 11:30am-10pm. Call them at (617) 536-6300. 

Atlantic Fish Co.: They will feature their full menu of seafood classics in addition to a three-course holiday prix fixe ($70). Start with parsnip soup with crème fraiche and candied pumpkin seeds, or a harvest salad with butternut squash, baby greens, pecan, goat cheese and maple vinaigrette. For the best from land and sea, the entrees are roasted turkey breast with braised dark meat, whipped potatoes, stuffing, roasted Brussels sprouts, cranberry sauce and gravy, or hazelnut-crusted Atlantic halibut with butternut squash puree, haricots verts and brown butter sage. For dessert, a pumpkin cheesecake with vanilla whipped cream. 

Reservations from 11am-9pm. Call them at (617) 267-4000. 

Coach Grill: They will feature a Thanksgiving prix fixe ($70) in addition to their nightly menu. For appetizers, there is a split pea soup with smoked ham hocks and crème fraiche, or a quinoa and Tuscan kale salad with red endive, golden raisins, toasted almonds and Meyer lemon vinaigrette. For entrees, there’s roasted turkey breast with whipped potatoes, stuffing, butternut squash, green beans, cranberry sauce and gravy, or an eight-ounce filet mignon served with a twice-baked potato, horseradish cream and bordelaise. For dessert, indulge in pumpkin cheesecake with vanilla whipped cream. 

Coach Grill also offers a takeout Thanksgiving Family Feast (serves 4-6; $285) available for pickup on November 27 and 28. 

Reservations from 11am-8pm. Please call (508) 358-5900. 

 2) The InterContinental Boston has officially debuted a "secret hideaway for rebellious spirits" as Loyall Counting Room is now open and located in the hotel’s first floor, next to Bar Fellini. The intimate speakeasy can accommodate up to 25 guests and "offers a secretive flare that encompasses a nod to Boston’s rich history of intrigue and revolution. The discreet atmosphere brings history to life in a unique location, featuring drinks paying homage to that time period." 

Jenna Carlson-Carvalho, Director of Restaurants and Bars at InterContinental Boston, stated, "We take the art of crafting cocktails to the next level, focusing not only on carefully curated ingredients but also on the overall presentation—from period glassware to the garnishes. We pride ourselves on the smallest details to give an authentic spin to historic drinks.”

"The concept pays tribute to Boston’s Loyal Nine - especially free-thinkers like John Avery, Thomas Chase, Henry Bass and Captain Joseph Field, all who understood the value of a good, strong drink. These revolutionaries preceded the Sons of Liberty, who planned and executed events like the Boston Tea Party, which occurred on the very site of InterContinental Boston at Fort Point Channel. This space is inspired by that era, with a secret entrance and modern-day tribute to the hidden counting rooms and water holes of the time. Enter by secret password and experience a clandestine meeting among the rebellious. The color palette is dark and wood-clad at a candlelight brightness. Contemporary colonial references are seen throughout in the cabinet of curiosity entrance, patterned wallcovering in the main room, coin-inspired feature light fixtures and artwork."  

The cocktail menu features unique elixirs, each with a story to tell and accompanied by a tale of the drink’s name, origin and background like the: 

• Incident on King Street, the infamous event that came to be known as the Boston Massacre made with Broadbent Madeira, Plantation Rum, Ron Zacapa 23 Solera, Licor 43, Grand Marnier, lemon and raspberry; 
• Under the Liberty Tree, showcasing the powerful symbol of colonial resistance, featuring Fino sherry, coconut-washed cognac liqueur, and spiced pear liqueur; 
• The Gentlewoman’s Rebellion, highlighting Phyllis Wheatley, a young formerly enslaved poet who defied expectations by becoming one of the most celebrated literary figures of the colonies, created with Grey Goose White Peach, Rosemary, pisco, cantaloupe syrup, clarified grapefruit and soda.

Guests can also enjoy small bites of "colonial fare" like Meat Pie, puff pastry, ground beef, vegetables, creamy potato, horseradish creme, and pickled red onion; Maple Bacon Caramel Corn, popcorn, maple caramelized bacon; and Roasted Chestnuts, salted and smoked.

3) Marcelino’s, Levantine Cocktails & Cuisine, a new locally owned and operated cocktail bar and lounge is scheduled to open in Seaport this later this fall, taking over the space where The Daily Catch resided. It's cofounded by Marcelino and Basel Badawi, and will specialize in crafted cocktails—both alcoholic and non-alcoholic—and offer creative mezze-style small plates, plus dinner and dessert menus. The new Marcelino’s follows in the footsteps of the award-winning Marcelino’s Boutique Bar in Providence, Rhode Island. 

The goal of Marcelino’s, Levantine Cocktails & Cuisine is to reset the bar for cocktails in the city of Boston–thanks to acclaimed Levantine/Mediterranean Chef Maroun Nohra and bar director/mixologist Refaat Ghostine. Marcelino's is locally owned and operated by Marcelino and Basel (who lives downtown), owners of the hugely successful and highly award-winning Marcelino's Boutique Bar in Providence.
 
"Refaat Ghostine has over a decade of A-list award-winning experience in the restaurant and hospitality space, spanning across the United States, Lebanon and the United Arab Emirates. Refaat was part of the team that helped Central Station Boutique Bar in Beirut, Lebanon earn a spot on the prestigious World’s Best Bars List, ranking as high as no. 22 in 2016 and no. 27 as the Best Bar in Africa & Middle East in 2018. Refaat was also honored with the title of Diageo Lebanon World Class Bartender of the Year in 2015. He has been with Marcelino's since 2020." 

One of their new cocktails will be Marcelino’s Oregano Tomato Cocktail, which is composed of gin, white vermouth, fresh oregano essence, clarified tomato cordial, verjus, and salted white balsamic vinegar. "This cocktail captures the vibrant flavors and fresh ingredients of Lebanon. It is the Levant in a glass. The star of the show being the oregano essence, which evokes the fragrant herbs that flourish in the region, offering a herbal depth that invites exploration. The clarified tomato cordial adds a unique umami richness, reminiscent of the sun-ripened tomatoes that are staples in Lebanese cuisine, while verjus introduces a refreshing acidity that brightens the palate. To elevate the experience, a few dashes of salted white balsamic vinegar tie the flavors together, echoing the way traditional Middle Eastern cuisines often combine sweet, sour, and savory notes. The cocktail is garnished with a cracker topped with sun-dried tomato oil gel, sumac, and black salt—a nod to the vibrant mezze culture of Lebanon. Enjoying the cracker first enhances the tasting experience, allowing the rich flavors to meld with the cocktail, creating a sensory journey that embodies the essence of Lebanese hospitality and the joy of sharing good food and drink." 

The inaugural food menu features Eastern Mediterranean-inspired mezze small plates including olive sourdough, za’atar pita toast, bone marrow & tartare, and za’atar bread fattoush salad. Main courses include decadent grilled lamb chops with Turkish ezme, yoghurt and cumin salt; tahini chicken schnitzel and a house baladi salad, and an 8 ounce Levantine steak, spicy chermoula and rosemary potato matchsticks, among others. Also on the menu are cumin lamb, celeriac, saffron baby squid and arak chicken kebab skewers.

4) On Monday, November 25, at 6pm, Il Ponte in Woburn, one of my top favorite Italian restaurants, will be hosting a special Super Tuscan Wine Dinner. Chef Beni Kurti has created five courses of goodf while wine expert Ciro Pirone will lead the tasting of five Italian wines. This should be a delicious and exciting dinner, and there will even be live music.

The Menu Includes:
Sformato di Zucca (Pumpkin flan with Gorgonzola & Walnuts)
2021 Arrighi "Valerius" Toscana Bianco
Agnello Fritto (Breaded & fried lamb chop with artichokes)
2020 Innocenti Lume IGT
Garganelli al Ragu Toscana (Garganelli fresh pasta with traditional Tuscan meat sauce)
2007 Il Moro di San Giovanni (magnum)
Brasato di Manzo (Braised short ribs, horseradish mashed potatoes, carrots & cippolini)
2019 Tenuta di Trinora Magnacosta IGT
Torta di Mandorle e Semolina (Almond & semolina cake)
2017 Grevepesa Vin Santo del Chianti Classico

The cost is $125 per person and you can make Reservations HERE. I'm sure this will sell out, so make your reservation as soon as possible.

Rant: Holiday Wines? Don't Be A Cheapskate

The holiday season is here, and many people will stop by their local wine shop to purchase wines for parties, dinners, or gifts. Let me provide you an important piece of advice, which applies to all the wine you'll purchase this holiday season.

Don't be a cheapskate! 

In preparation for the holidays, people stock up on wine to serve their guests at the various parties and celebrations. Often, because they are buying bottles in bulk, multiple bottles, their primary concern is price. So, they too often buy the large, commercial "value" wines, the brand names which are known to everyone. 

Please don't do it! 

It takes almost no thought to buy such wines. Though such wines might be drinkable, they aren't going to impress anyone. You've chosen to take the cheapest route possible, in both price and time. These wines are generally industrial products, created to taste the same year to year, and you never know what additives might be in these wines. They are like the McDonald's of the wine world. Do you really want to serve such wines to your loved ones, your family and friends?  

There is a better way. 

If you're hosting a holiday party, don't you want to impress your guests? Or do you want to be known as the person who bought the cheapest wine available? Don't you want your guests to leave the party talking about the great time they had, telling others about the delicious wines they enjoyed? Or would you rather have them later complain that the wine was unappealing? It only takes a little extra work and price to elevate your wine selections. 

I certainly understand the need to control your wine costs when you are providing for a number of guests. You don't have to buy $50 wines to impress your guests and you don't even have to spend $20 per bottle. I've purchased numerous $10-$15 wines, only a few dollars more than you might otherwise spend on those "value" wines, and brought them to parties where the other guests loved them, wanting to know where they could buy them. 

There are good and interesting wines at this price point, if you know where to seek them out. If you want your holiday celebration to be even more popular, then you should serve those type of wines. The extra effort will elevate your party and please your family, friends, and other guests.

How do you find these inexpensive but interesting wines? At whatever wine shop you visit, it might be best to ask the wine store staff for recommendations of their best value wines. They should be able to direct you toward those inexpensive wines which will be more interesting and delicious than those cheap commercial wines. At Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet in Melrose, where I work, I can recommend a number of much better value wines. For example, we have recently carried a $9 Vinho Verde and an $11 Montepulciano which were excellent wines for that price.   

Most wine stores also offer a discount for bulk purchases, commonly 5-20%, and sometimes for as little as 3 bottles, which makes your wine cost even less expensive. And these are usually discounts that the wine store doesn't provide for the large-scale, commercial "value" wines. 

If for some reason you can't ask a store employee for some recommendations, then my best advice for selecting a good wine that is $15 or under, is to buy a Portuguese wine. I think some of the greatest value wines are coming out of Portugal, especially at this price point. Chances are that if you purchase a Portuguese wine costing $15 or less, you'll find a delicious wine, much better than similarly priced wines from most other regions. And there are plenty of Portuguese wines available in that price range. There is probably no other wine region where you can find as many good wines at that price point.

You also should know that paying a few dollars more for your wine can make a big difference. When you start considering wines priced from $15-$20, your options increase drastically. You can find some interesting wines from all over the world in that price range, though they still offer value. And if you are buying in bulk where the wine store offers a discount for larger purchases, you can save enough money so that the wines end up priced closer to $15 or less per bottle.

So this holiday season, don't buy the same old cheap wines. It won't take much effort to select some better choices, and still very inexpensively. In the end, you'll impress your guests, make your holiday party more memorable, and drink better wines.

(This is a revised version of a post originally from 2009.  It's an important enough issue to raise it again.)