Fried Chicken Street Vendors in Boston

Imagine you're walking down a street in downtown Boston, and you see a man on the corner, a street vendor, holding a basket full of fried chicken. Would you purchase a piece? 

Over 100 years ago, that was an actual option!    

The Boston Globe, February 9, 1908, published a lengthy article about "street lunch men," who sold hot dogs, chestnuts, fried smelts, and fried chicken. These vendors did a good business because the service was very quick, much faster than dining at a restaurant, and the food was very inexpensive. So, there were plenty of street vendors, competing for the many customers. 

However, a few weeks prior to this article, the city of Boston instituted a new law where these numerous vendors had to obtain a license, and pay a $5 fee, to sell food on the streets. In addition, their sales were now being restricted to specific streets. This drastically reduced the number of street vendors, although the numbers might have increased after a time, when they realized the fee was relatively small, compared to their potential profits. 

These street vendors could make a significant profit, from 100-300%, depending on the specific night and the specific product. For example, it was estimated that it cost a hot dog vendor about 20 cents to buy 18 raw hot dogs (one pound) and rolls, but that the vendor could sell each dog for 5 cents, generating sales of 90 cents, making a profit of 70 cents. A good hot dog vendor could thus make $35-$45 a week (about $1200-$1600 in today's dollars). The roast chestnut vendors could make even more money, from $40-$90 a week! 

The article continued, "A choice delicacy of the curb lunch is fried chicken. It is the top liner, too, as to price, commanding double and in some instances, triple the rate of the more plebeian edibles of the street." Nowadays, hot dog and sausage carts are popular on the streets of Boston, but have you ever seen a fried chicken cart? Sure, there are food trucks that sell fried chicken, but what about small carts? Or even just a man carrying a basket of fried chicken? There are plenty of hot dog and sausage carts near Fenway Park, but I've never seen a fried chicken cart or basket there. 

Back around 1908, nearly all of the fried chicken vendors were black men, and they had to pay the $5 fee for a license to sell. Unlike the hot dog vendors, the fried chicken vendors generally didn't limit themselves to any particular curb spot, but kept on the move, following where the customers might be. "Garbed in a short coat and long apron of white, and carrying on one arm a capacious basket, in which is his supply of chicken, he flits about from place to place on those downtown streets of the city...."  Rather than have a stall or cart, they simply carried their chicken in a basket, allowing them to easily travel around with their food for sale.  

What were the economics of this business? The article writer spoke to one of the chicken vendors, learning the fascinating details. The vendor had started the night having first purchased 50 chickens, totaling 135 pounds, at ten cents a pound, making his total cost $13.50. Each chicken could then be cut into six pieces, making a total of 300 pieces, and once fried, each piece would sell for 10 cents. That generated total sales of $30.00, making a profit of $16.50. And it only took that vendor two hours to sell out of his chicken. A fried chicken vendor could make as much, if not more, than a roast chestnut vendor. 

Unfortunately, the article didn't describe how the fried chicken was prepared. It seems likely that the vendor fried the chicken at his home, but did he do the actual frying, or did some other member of his family, such as his wife, fry the chicken, or at least assist in its preparation? In addition, how long did it take to prepare all that chicken, such as frying 300 pieces? Plus, were the various vendors using different recipes to make their fried chicken, and thus were certain vendors considered to be superior due to their recipe? 

The photo at the top of this article is of John B. Campbell, who lived in the West End, and who was known as "the original fried chicken man of Boston." He was the first fried chicken vendor in Boston, and had been working as such in the West End for several years. "He was patronized quite largely by actors and actresses from the vaudeville houses and popular-priced theatres who stop at West End hotels during their engagements here and take a piece or two of his fried chicken with them to their rooms for lunch."

Unfortunately, I've been unable to locate any more information about John Campbell, although I suspect his story would be quite fascinating. What led him to become a fried chicken vendor? How long, after 1908, did he continue to sell fried chicken? Did he assist the other fried chicken vendors, or were they viewed as competition? Did his family get involved in the business? So many answered questions. 

Today, it probably would be impossible for any street vendor to obtain a license, especially because of hygiene restrictions, to sell fried chicken out of a basket on the streets of Boston. However, it's an intriguing piece of Boston history as well as local black history. 

Rant: Touch Your Food & Enjoy It More

I don't believe it's a coincidence that some of our favorite foods, from burgers to hot dogs, lobster rolls to tacos, pizza to French fries, are held in our hands as we eat them. With summer here, we will likely enjoy more of these such foods.  

When we pick up these foods with our hands and bite into them, this creates a greater connection between us and our food. There isn't an intermediary of metal, wood or plastic utensils which might interfere with our enjoyment of these foods. Although of course there are some people who do eat such foods with a knife and fork. This may create a disconnect between them and that food.  

This is all a psychological issue, and one which most people don't even think about except on an unconscious level. They understand the enjoyment of these foods and can describe in the detail many of the reasons for such, except they will rarely mention that part of the reason, and probably an important element, is that they can touch the food.

Eating with your hands can even lead to you licking your fingers, savoring the sauce, condiments, cheese, frosting, and other items that might accumulate on your skin. There's a greater intimacy involved in eating food with your hands, one which we appreciate though usually on a deeper level. Yes, you can enjoy food which you eat with a knife and fork, but there is something more satisfyingly primal with being able to use your hands.

What may make us think more closely about this issue is when we are confronted with a situation outside of the norm, when we are unable to eat a certain item with our hands that usually we should be able to do so. For example, if you order a warm buttered lobster roll, but the roll falls apart, making it almost impossible to eat it as a sandwich. Or if you order a burger, with lots of extra ingredients, but it's too large, too thick for you to bite, or too messy to eat with your hands. There's a real sense of disappointment with these food fails, as you actually wanted to eat them with your hands but were thwarted in doing so. 

You lose part of the essential aspect of the dish, the direct connection of flesh to food. I'm not sure all restaurants understand how certain foods should not require utensils to enjoy, that part of the allure is being able to hold them in your hands as you eat them. Do your own test at home. Try eating some foods with your hands and then try eating that same food with utensils. And I bet, if you're being honest, you will notice a difference and prefer using just your hands. 

And of course, there are plenty of foods which are not meant to be eaten with your hands. You can't eat soup with your hands. Sometimes you need a knife to cut your steak. But, if you can eat something with your hands, then do so.  

Touch your food and enjoy it more! 

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) From July 2-5, Margaritas Mexican Restaurant will be the ultimate watering hole for its namesake cocktail while honoring America. The annual Independence Weekend Fiesta will be a four-day celebration with festively crafted drinks and tropical staycation vibes.

Margaritas will kick off the fiesta with a trio of red, white and blue margarita options available for only $6 each: a signature classic Margarita, a Strawberry Margarita, and a Blue Hawaiirita. From Thursday to Sunday, Margs also will be pouring a $12 margarita flight with four mini margs (original, strawberry, Blue Hawaii and blueberry).

Also featured in July is the brand’s signature “Margarita of the Month,” the Pop Star Margarita ($10) with Hornitos Plata tequila, Watermelon Pucker, coconut puree and pineapple juice finished with a watermelon Pop Rocks rim.

2) Kane’s Donuts and Vitamin Sea Brewing have teamed up to give dads something they actually want this Father’s Day: donuts and beer (well, beer in a donut). Introducing the Vitamin Sea Summer Donut, a refreshing fruit-forward glazed yeast-style donut made with Vitamin Sea Summer IPA, available exclusively Father’s Day weekend: Saturday, June 20th, and Sunday, June 21st at all Kane’s Donuts locations.

Crafted using Vitamin Sea's iconic Summer beer, a fruity, juicy New England IPA that has notes of orange, mango, and pineapple, this limited-edition donut feels like summer in every bite. It features a soft, fluffy yeast dough dipped in a glaze made with Kane’s Signature Honey Dip that has been infused with reduced Vitamin Sea Summer IPA. 

“Father’s Day is all about celebrating the dads and father figures who make life sweeter, and we’re excited to do that in true Kane’s fashion,” said Maria Delios, Co-Owner of Kane’s Donuts. “Partnering with Vitamin Sea Brewing brings together two local favorites for a fun, limited-edition donut perfect for the holiday.”

“Partnering with Kane’s Donuts for Father’s Day was a natural fit,” said Dino Funari, Co-Founder of Vitamin Sea Brewing. “They’re a beloved local brand with an incredible following, and we loved the idea of creating something fun, seasonal, and unexpected for dads to enjoy.”

The Vitamin Sea Summer Donut will be available in limited quantities at all three Kane’s locations.

Rant: Eliminate Cuisine Stereotypes!

I don't like sushi because I hate raw fish!

We probably all know people who have made a statement like that, or something similar such as "I don't like Thai food because it's too spicy" or "I don't like Indian cuisine because I hate curry." Maybe some of you even have made such statements yourself. Yet are those statements truly accurate, or do they evidence a lack of knowledge about those cuisines? Are these people perpetuating stereotypes about these cuisines? Would these people actually enjoy aspects of these cuisines if they truly understood the cuisine and were willing to take a chance on it? 

For example, the above photo depicts three different types of sushi, specifically maki rolls. Not one of those rolls contains raw fish. In fact, only one of them even has cooked seafood, the Shrimp Tempura Maki. The other two rolls are Sweet Potato Tempura and Chicken Tempura. There are plenty of other sushi options that don't include raw fish, so you shouldn't stereotype it as only consisting of raw fish. 

Many people refer to Indian or Thai cuisine as if it were a single, monolithic cuisine. They fail to realize that most, if not all, national cuisines actually consist of numerous regional cuisines, and those can vary quite widely from each other. There is not a unified Indian or Thai cuisine. There is also not a unified Italian or Mexican cuisine. Rather, they all are a plethora of regional cuisines. Not all Indian cuisines and dishes use curry and not all Thai dishes are spicy. 

This came to my mind again for me while I was reading Soul Food: The Surprising Story of an American Cuisine One Plate at a Time (2013) by Adrian Miller. There was a passage, "Americans tend to identify immigrant cuisines more by ethnicity, nationality, and race than by place. We use the terms “Chinese food” and “Italian food” instead of “Cantonese Province food” or “Southern Italy food.”

You must open up your mind and broaden your culinary knowledge. It's an easy solution, to educate yourself so you don't stereotype any cuisine. If you dislike raw fish, go to a sushi restaurant and ask what sushi doesn't include raw fish. If you dislike curry, check out an Indian restaurant and let them explain all of the dishes that don't use curry. If you dislike spicy Thai, check out a Thai restaurant and find out all the non-spicy dishes they carry. You will probably be surprised by all the choices you actually have, despite your dislike of one element of their cuisine. You might even find some new favorite dishes.

Though you might think your stereotype only affects you, that's not always the case. You might be part of a group of family or friends trying to decide on which restaurant to go. You might nix the idea of attending a certain restaurant because of your stereotype, thus denying everyone else the chance to dine there. Is that really fair? No, I don't think so. In addition, such stereotypes can hurt those restaurants, and the restaurant industry already has plenty of obstacles. Your stereotypes can reinforce the stereotypes of others, preventing even more people from dining at certain places.

Learn about those cuisines you think you hate, and maybe you will realize they are far more diverse than you realize. 

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) Congratulations to the Union Oyster House for their 200th Anniversary! 

In 1826, before the Civil War, before the invention of the telephone, and before either the Boston Symphony Orchestra or the Boston Red Sox existed, Union Oyster House opened its doors. This August, this National Historic Landmark celebrates 200 years of continuous operation. Located on Boston’s Freedom Trail, Union Oyster House offers guests a tangible connection to American history, culture, and traditions. Since opening, only minor renovations have been made to preserve the restaurant's original design. It is internationally celebrated for its fresh seafood, timeless ambiance, and exceptional service. Signature dishes include New England classics like oysters on the halfshell, clam chowder, lobster, Boston baked beans, and cornbread.. The restaurant won North America’s Best Landmark Restaurant honors in 2020, 2024, and 2025.

Over the years, Union Oyster House has been owned by only four families: the Atwoods, Fitzgeralds, Greaveses, and, the current proprietors, the Milanos. For owner Joseph Milano, this bicentennial anniversary represents far more than a successful business. “It’s our responsibility and honor to uphold this piece of American history,” said Milano. “For 200 years, we have been creating memories and traditions for visitors across the world. Union Oyster House would not be where it is today without the love and support from our guests.” 

Some of the more famous guests to dine at Union Oyster House over the decades have included presidents and politicians, royalty and diplomats, Hollywood legends, celebrated chefs, and sports icons. Notable visitors have included Franklin D. Roosevelt, John F. Kennedy, Bill Clinton, Barack Obama, Queen Elizabeth II, Julia Child, Meryl Streep, Leonardo DiCaprio, and Steven Spielberg, among countless others who have passed through its historic doors over the last two centuries.

2) Margeaux Supper Parlor, located in Cambridge and owned by Rebekah Barr is now offering $1 oysters, along with new cocktail and wine pairings. Every Tuesday through Thursday from 5–7 p.m., guests can enjoy a special menu featuring brand-new cocktails and $1 Unicorn Oysters. Unicorn Oysters are premium, surface-cultivated Eastern oysters harvested in the cold, nutrient-rich waters of Maine's Damariscotta River. 
** Available in the dining room, at the bar, and on Margeaux's patio. **

Some Cocktail Highlights include
* Clarified Key Lime Margarita– Arette tequila, key lime, vanilla, Luxardo amaretto, coconut foam, graham cracker
* Pink Vesper– Kyro rhubarb gin, Rockey's botanical liqueur, Lillet Rose, lemon
* Bali Dragon– Absinthe, Planetary rum, coconut milk, pistachio & pandan orgeat, matcha
* Soft Launch– Tito's, Licor 43, guava, citrus, vanilla, baking spice, sparkling wine chaser

Each cocktail is inspired by the deep flavors of unicorn oysters, pairing oyster umami with a refreshing bite. Owner Rebekah Barr's vision for “Golden Hour” centers on her appreciation for a slower life. A craft cocktail, a fresh oyster, and the sunsetting over a beautiful patio- the way summer should be. Wine will be offered by the bottle and glass at a discounted price.