Apples & Cider: Post 390's Farm to Post With Kimball Fruit Farm

Last week, while dining at Post 390, it certainly felt like Autumn, as the Apples & Cider dinner brought to mind some of the best elements of the season.

Roughly every month or so, Post 390's Executive Chef Nick Deutmeyer and his culinary team hosts a special Farm to Post dinner and menu that spotlights "some of New England’s finest farmers, producers, vineyards, brewers, and fishermen and focuses on ingredients that are sourced locally and produced sustainably." I've been to a couple of these events in the past and always enjoyed them, savoring excellent food and drink.

Last week, Executive Chef Nick Deutmeyer created a superb dinner, spotlighting apples and cider, in collaboration with Kimball Fruit Farm, a third-generation family run farm owned and operated by Carl and Marie Hills in Pepperell. I was invited to attend this dinner as a media guest. I'll note that you'll be able to order the dishes that were at this dinner throughout the month of October, and a bit into November, and I strongly recommend that you visit Post 390 to experience these tasty and creative dishes.

The Kimball Fruit Farm was originally established in the 1930s by Allen and Foster Kimball, who bought a fire damaged dairy farm and then planted apple and peach orchards, with apples being their primary product. They eventually took on Harold Hills, Allen's brother--in-law, to help with the farm and he became active in running the orchards. At one point, when the market for apples took a significant drop, they cut down about half of the orchards so they could plant a variety of other fruits and vegetables.

In 1969, the family had to sell the land to a group of investors though they continued to lease the land to continue running the farm. Carl (Harold's son) and Marie Hills bought the 200-acre property back in 1999 and Carl used some legal actions to protect 176 acres so no one will ever be able to build on the property. They currently grow over 50 different types of apples, as well as a variety of other fruits and veggies. Most of their business is in wholesale, which they want to get out of, though they also sell their produce at 10 Farmers' Markets. The farm used to produce apple cider, but hadn't for the last 18 years, until Carl and Marie recently decided to make it once again. Rather than pasteurization, they are using an UV process, so as to not affect the taste of the cider.

Our evening began with a Cocktail Hour with some appetizers and a competition. David Danforth, Post 390’s Beverage Director, presented a welcome cocktail, a modern take on an old New England cocktail, The Stone Fence. Often associated with Ethan Allen, the Revolutionary War patriot, the cocktail was originally a mix of rum and apple cider but as whisky began to overtake rum, the cocktail changed with the times. David created this cocktail with a blend of about 1 ounce of Woodford Reserve, a 1/4 oz of Don Pappa Rum, and 1/4 oz of Scotch. He then added 1/2 oz lemon, 1/2 oz Cardamaro, 2 oz Kimball Fruit Farm cider, and a dash of Jerry Thomas Bitters. It was certainly a refreshing drink, with prominent apple and lemon flavors, and the alcohol was almost imperceptible, though personally I would have preferred a bit more of the taste of the spirits.

As we enjoyed our cocktail, there were three appetizers for us to try, including samples of six apples and a Cheddar Cheese plate with Marcona almonds. Apples and cheddar make a fine pairing, and the almonds are always a favorite of mine.

Servers also passed around Pork & Apple Sausage Tartelettes, made with blue cheese, dried fig, frisee, and an apple cider vinaigrette. Though I thought the pastry shell was a bit too dry, the filling was quite tasty, with the pungent blue cheese making a nice accompaniment to the apple and pork flavors.

There was also a station with Brandied Apple Flambé, with duck liver mousse, and I loved this appetizer, with its silky smooth and earthy mousse, balanced with the sweet and tart flavors of the crunchy apple pieces. A spoonful of pleasure.

There was also an Apple Contest, where you had to guess the names of six different apples, and it certainly wasn't easy. It helped to showcase the diversity of flavors that can be found with the myriad of apple types. My good friend Chanie was the ultimate winner, and was awarded a deep dish apple pie.

Once we sat down, our first courses was Chilled Crab & Apples, with a tart Cortland apple & herb gelée, Peekytoe crab celery root salad, Hackleback caviar, Marcona almond Florentine, and chive crème fraiche. This was an intriguing, fresh and light dish, with a nice blend of flavors and textures, from sweet crab to the crunchy florentine. The gelée, basically like a tasty apple Jello, was full of rich apple flavors. A powerful, and elegant, opening salvo by Executive Chef Nick Deutmeyer.

To pair with our dinner, David Danforth selected several heritage production, single-harvest ciders. Rather than some of the mass production ciders, which are produced year round, these ciders are far more unique and produced in much more limited quantities. The first cider of the evening was the Farnum Hill Semi-Dry Cider from Lebanon, New Hampshire. At 7.4% ABV, this cider was only mildly sweet with a tart undertone and plenty of delicious apple flavors. It went well with out first course, and certainly is a food friendly cider. I've enjoyed a number of Farnum ciders before, and they have an excellent portfolio.

The second course was named Sing a Song of Sixpence, after a nursery rhyme which mentioned 24 blackbirds baked into pie that sang once the pie was opened. This dish was comprised of a roasted young pigeon with a moutarde violette, rye & honey crumble, apple tarte tatin, and a blackberry-rosemary jus. Mutsu apples were used in this dish and the tarte tatin was based on an old recipe. The pigeon was delicious, with tender and flavorful dark meat, enhanced by the rest of the ingredients. The apple tarte tatin was also quite good, moist and with an intriguing taste. Another powerful hit by Executive Chef Nick Deutmeyer.

For the "wildness" of our pigeon dish, we drank the Shacksbury Lost and Found, from Vergennes, Vermont. For some more background info on Shacksbury and some of their other ciders, check out a prior post of mine. At 6.9% ABV, this cider is from the 2016 harvest, and has a very earthy aroma, though on the palate you'll find it is crisp and light, with more subtle and complex apple notes. It is that more wild nose that certainly brings to mind wild game, like pigeon.

The final savory course was Hand-Carved Heritage Porchettea, with an apple & sage bread stuffing, wild mushroom velouté, pumpkin mousse, and a cider reduction. The Friday before, they received a 236 pound pig, and this was one of their preparations. Swiss Gourmet apples were used in this dish and they also used some of the Kimball's new cider in the reduction. This ample dish once again brought a tasty and interesting melange of flavors and textures. Succulent slices of pork, earthy mushrooms, sweet mousse, and crunchy stuffing. The dish worked on several levels and it was clearly Autumn on a plate. A slam-dunk from Executive Chef Nick Deutmeyer.

Our next pairing was the Eden Specialty Ciders Ezekiel, a single varietal cider made in Newport, Vermont, from Kingston Black apples of the Windfall Orchard. Kingston Black, a British cider variety, is considered one of the most bitter of the cider apples, with a bitter/tart profile. It is also said to be a "...one of the few apples that has sufficient sugar, acid and tannin to make a balanced single variety cider." This cider was also aged about about 12 months in an oak barrel and only 100 cases were produced. For more background on Eden, please check out my prior article,

With an 8% ABV, this cider possessed an alluring aroma and on the palate it was a stunner. With a full body, it was elegant and crisp, complex and subtle, intriguing and delicious. It was dry, well-balanced and had a lengthy, satisfying finish, pairing very well with the porchetta. Frankly, it was one of the best ciders I've tasted in quite some time. This would be perfect for Thanksgiving too. My highest recommendation.

For dessert, we enjoyed a Warm Apple Spice Cake, made with Honeycrisp apples, accompanied by vanilla ice cream and a maple glaze. The cake was moist, spicy and scrumptious, as well as not too heavy. For dessert, we enjoyed some of the Eden Heirloom Ice Cider, which is sweet, yet well balanced with a good acidity. A fitting ending to a superlative dinner.

At only $55 per person, this was an excellent value dinner too, considering all of the quality food and cider you received. Executive Chef Nick Deutmeyer put together a compelling dinner, a true taste of the Fall, and Beverage Director David Danforth compiled an excellent set of cider pairings. I strongly recommend you visit Post 390 this month to check out these dishes which are being offered. And you also should check out the next Farm to Post dinner, Local Roasters: Chocolate & Coffee, on November 14.

TasteCamp Vermont: When Life Gives You Apples, Make Cider

Autumn in New England is the time for apple picking, for hot cider donuts and chilled apple cider. It is a time for home-baked apple pies, cider-braised pork, apple stuffing and so much more. With the prevalence and popularity of apples, it's easy to understand why hard cider is also quite popular in New England, and Vermont is certainly no exception.

During TasteCamp Vermont, we had the pleasure to taste a range of hard ciders, some very traditional while others were more experimental. Vermont is cutting their own unique path through the hard cider industry and are producing some fascinating and delicious ciders. No matter what type of cider you prefer, you'll likely find some in Vermont, and if you are willing to expand your palate, you'll find plenty others which should appeal to you. As a cider lover, I was impressed with Vermont's offerings, and brought a number of bottles home with me.

The hard cider industry has a long history in Vermont. Even when Prohibition was enacted in Vermont in 1852, 67 years prior to the passage of Federal Prohibition, the production of hard cider was not banned, provided no other fermentable sugars were added to it. However, you couldn't sell cider at any "...victualing house, tavern, grocery shop, or cellar, or other place of public resort.” Why was cedar allowed to remain legal? First, it was easy to make and with "...the abundance of apple trees and orchards across the state, it would have been impossible to outlaw production." Second, cider was "...an important staple of daily nutrition. Consuming water was still a dangerous gamble, and beer produced at breweries was illegal under the law." The effect of Vermont's Prohibition was to significantly increase cider consumption but it must have eventually been seen as a significant problem as they finally outlawed cider production and consumption in 1880.

(All the above quotes are from Vermont Prohibition: Teetotalers, Bootleggers & Corruption by Adam Krakowski.)

Eleanor Léger, the founder of Eden Specialty Ciders, showcased a number of her ciders, and they were very popular with the TasteCamp attendees. See my previous post Craft Cider-From Orchard To Glass for more information about Eleanor, her cidery, and reviews of some of her tasty products. Eleanor is making exciting ciders and has inspired other producers in Vermont to get into the cider industry. I want to highlight two more of her ciders, both which I highly recommend.

The Eden Imperial Rosé ($15) is produced from heirloom apples, red currants, and a touch of ice cider. At 11% ABV, it is off-dry, with a mild effervescence, and is fresh and crisp with delicious apple and currant flavors, blending together well. It is tasty on its own, though would pair well with food too, and this would be great on your table at Thanksgiving. At this price, it is a very good value and I was sure to pick up a couple bottles.

I've previously raved about the Eden Orleans Herbal Aperitif, kind of an apple Vermouth, a cider infused with organic herbs including Basil and Hyssop. I stated that it "is an intriguing and compelling cider, a unique blend which has lots of potential." At TasteCamp, I got to sample the companion to this aperitif, the Eden Orleans Bitter Aperitif ($30). The Bitter, with a 16% ABV, is a cider made with red currant, dandelion, angelica, and gentian. It possesses a complex and fascinating taste, with a potent bitterness, enhanced by more subtle hints of red fruit and apple. It is more of an apple Amaro, and should be an excellent ingredient for a variety of cocktails.

I was impressed with the Bitter just as much as I was the Herbal and would highly recommend both. They are very unique, quite delicious, complex and versatile. Many of the TasteCamp attendees seemed to agree as Eleanor sold plenty of bottles of the Aperitifs.

Whetstone Ciderworks, which is located on the banks of the Whetstone Brook, was founded in 2010 by Jason and Lauren MacArthur. They use apples from both their own orchard as well as some other local farms. Jason, on a trip to France, became enamored with wine making and upon his return to Vermont, he wanted to create something appropriate to the land and climate. Apples, rather than grapes, became his fruit of choice, thinking it best exemplified Vermont and its cold and wet climate. Jason noted that "cider is a delicate beverage" and they usually drink cider with food.

The Orchard King ($14) is made from a blend of apples including Jonagold, Pinova, Cox's Orange Pippin and some later bittersweet cider apples.  Dry and crisp, it possessed tasty flavors of tart apple and citrus, with a nice minerality. This would be excellent with cheese, and I could also see it working well with seafood dishes, from oysters to cod.

The Orchard Queen ($14) is made from a blend of apples including Lamb Abbey Permian, Orleans Reinette, Co'x Orange Pippin and Kingston Black. This too is dry and crisp, with a strong tart apple flavor and mild citrus, but its main difference is that it possesses an earthy element, a complex and intriguing aspect that appealed to me. I would pair this with other umami dishes, from sushi with soy sauce to mushroom risotto.

Stowe Cider was founded in 2013 by Stefan Windler, a chemist and biologist, and his wife, Mary. They use Vermont apples and make small batches of their diverse ciders. Their Summer Shandy is a blend of homemade lemonade and semi-dry cider. It is mostly dry, with bright citrus and lemon flavors, a nice tartness and a crisp and refreshing taste. Their Ginger Cider is aged in Vermont Rum barrels, their own version of a Dark n' Stormy. It is crisp and dry, with strong and clean apple & ginger flavors, and caramel and vanilla accents. The Wild Reserve is naturally fermented, made like a traditional Spanish cider, and is earthy and funky, with underlying tart apple flavors. Quite delicious.

Citizen Cider was founded in 2010 by Justin Heilenbach (a small farmer), Bryan Holmes (a chemist) and Kris Nelson (a wine salesman). It started off as a small project but quickly exploded so that by 2014, they had created a large production facility in Burlington, Vermont. They produce over 10 different types of cider, a diverse portfolio of intriguing ciders. The Northern Spy is a single varietal cider, made from apples sourced from Happy Valley Orchard. It has a complex and delicious taste, with nice tartness, a hint of sweetness, and is very crisp and refreshing. Citizen Plum Intended is intriguing as it is made with Sake yeast,  as well as co-fermented with macerated plums, also from Happy Valley Orchard. It was only mildly sweet, with a subtle plum flavor overlying the crisp, apple flavors. It was delicious and I picked up a couple bottles to take home.

In 2002, Bradley Koehler and his wife purchased the Windfall Orchard, a three-acre orchard which now grows over 80 varieties of apples and other assorted fruits. It is currently a small operation, with their only produce an apple ice cider. The Windfall Ice Cider is blend of 30 varieties of apples, including 50% heirloom and 50% traditional cider apples. Some of the traditional cider apples include Roxbury Russet and Esopus Spitenburg. It has a wild fermentation as well as a secondary fermentation, with some ice cider as a dosage. It ends up with a 9% ABV and 15% residual sugar, and tastes mostly dry with good acidity. It has a prominent and complex apple flavor with savory notes. There are also notes of honey, dried fruit and almost ripe pear. An excellent dessert wine.  

Thirst Boston: Craft Cider--From Orchard to Glass

On Friday, I'll be traveling to Vermont for TasteCamp, the annual event that brings together a small number of wine writers to explore the wines of a specific region. Over the years, TasteCamp has evolved and expanded to include an exploration of locally produced beer, spirits, ciders and even food. Thus, while we are in Vermont, we will sample a diverse selection of beverages including hard cider. While at Thirst Boston, I had a sneak peek at a couple of the cider producers we will meet in Vermont and want to share some insight into their products.

First, let's reach back to 1852, when Vermont passed a Liquor Law which essentially was a type of Prohibition, banning much alcohol production. Fortunately, the production of hard cider was not prohibited, as long as no other fermentable sugars were added to it. However, you couldn't sell cider at any "...victualing house, tavern, grocery shop, or cellar, or other place of public resort.”  Why was cedar allowed to remain legal? First, it was easy to make and with "...the abundance of apple trees and orchards across the state, it would have been impossible to outlaw production." Second, cider was "...an important staple of daily nutrition. Consuming water was still a dangerous gamble, and beer produced at breweries was illegal under the law." The Liquor Law significantly increased cider consumption though around 1880, cider production and consumption was finally outlawed.

(All the above quotes are from Vermont Prohibition: Teetotalers, Bootleggers & Corruption by Adam Krakowski.)

Now, back to the recent past. At Thirst Boston, I attended the seminar Craft Cider: From Orchard to Glass, which was described as: "No longer New England’s best-kept beverage secret, cider is popping up on menus at bars and restaurants all over the country these days. It’s shed its too-sweet reputation and now cider (essentially fermented fruit) is known as a sophisticated and complex beverage that can stand on its own or take the place of beer, wine, and even a cocktail." The seminar was supposed to cover the "...different styles of craft cider, how they are produced, and how to pair food and cider. You’ll leave with a wealth of information enabling you to better choose and enjoy all kinds of cider."

The presenters included Eleanor Léger, founder of Eden Specialty Ciders, and David Dolginow, co-owner of Shacksbury Cider. Eden Speciality Ciders extends back to 2007, getting their start with apple ice cider though they have since expanded to produce a variety of different apple ciders, leading to their name change from Eden Ice Cider to Eden Speciality Ciders. They have about 1000 trees, growing 42 varieties of apples, and also buy apples from a number of local growers. David, and his partner Colin Davis, got into the cider business, partially after tasting the delicious ciders from Eden. In 2013, they founded Shacksbury Cider in Shoreham, Vermont.

The seminar began with some general information about apples and cider, such as that most apples trace their ancestry to the Eurasian country of Kazakhstan. Elinor made it clear that Eden and Shacksbury produce niche ciders, very different from the large commercial ciders that are available in the market. The key difference is the orchard, the type of apples which are used in the ciders.  Apples can roughly be divided into three basic types, eating, heirloom and bittersweet/sharp. There was brief mention of a local, old heirloom apple called the Roxbury Russet which originated around the 1640s in Roxbury, MA. There was also some information about the three main styles of cider in Europe, including Spain, France and England.

Cider has become a significant category and in 2015, about 28.7 million cases of cider were sold, though that figure doesn't include sales of cider at restaurants and bars. The commercial cider category grew by about 6% but the craft cider category exploded, with a growth of 44%! Though some of those large, commercial cider producers may have helped to initialize the cider craze, more people now are seeking out craft ciders, those smaller, more artisanal producers. Elinor noted that there is lots of innovation in the cider industry, plenty of experimentation with styles and types. They don't have to follow traditional styles and can try to create their own path.

Why does the cost of cider vary so much sometimes? One of the big differences is the cost of the ingredients used to make the cider, especially the pre-fermentation, raw juice cost . For example, water costs about $0.02 a gallon while reconstituted concentrate is only $0.70 per gallon. When you consider juice from culled dessert fruit orchards, the cost rises to $2.50 per gallon and the juice from apples specifically grown for cider are a significant $8.00 per gallon. A number of commercial ciders often are much cheaper because they use reconstituted concentrate while the more craft ciders, using cider apples, much charge more due to the much higher cost of their basic ingredient. Keep that in mind when you start criticizing the higher price of a craft cider.

Eleanor led off our cider tasting with the Eden Sparkling Dry, which is a Champagne-style cider made from heirloom and bittersweet apple varieties grown in Vermont. About 50% of the blend is the cider apple Kingston Black while 30% are heirloom varieties and 20% are grocery-type apples. With a 8.5% ABV and no residual sugar, this cider is from multiple harvest years,  undergoes a secondary fermentation and then is disgorged about six months later. This cider will last for about a year and then it might start to oxidize. It tasted dry and clean, with pleasing apple flavors and a nice effervescence. It's recommended that you can pair this cider with oysters, seafood and veggie dishes. I think oysters might be a tasty pairing, especially some briny ones that would then accompany the dry apple flavors.

David then stepped up to present the second cider, the Shacksbury Pet-Nat, which is part of their Lost Apple Ciders program. This program is intended to seek out the type of apples that were planted for cider over one hundred years ago. This particular cider is a blend of lost apples foraged around the towns of Danby and Tinmouth as well as some English cider apples that are grown at Sunrise Orchards in Cornwall. This cider also uses an old, traditional method of fermentation, which is a hot method in the wine world, known as Pétillant-Naturel or Methode Ancestrale. In short, this method allows the initial fermentation to finish in the bottle. This traps carbon dioxide in the bottle, creating carbonation.

With a 6.7% ABV and no residual sugar, this cider was fermented with native yeasts and was bottled without any added sulfites and without being filtered. As you look at the photo above, you can see that it is cloudy from that lack of filtering. It is bone dry, with a light effervescence, and delicious apple flavors with hints of pear and lemon. It had a long, pleasing finish too. A very interesting cider which would also pair well with a variety of foods, especially seafood.

We then moved onto the Shacksbury Dry, which is sold in a can. This cider was only released about two weeks ago and is a blend of about 70% grocery apples and 30% bittersweet, with about 30% of the total apples supplied from the UK. The English varieties are slow fermented to fully express the apple. This cider has 0.4% residual sugar so it is primarily dry with only a kiss of sweetness. It presents more of a carbonated apple taste and tastes better than many of the other canned ciders from the large commercial producers.

I was fascinated with the Shacksbury WhistlePig Barrel-Aged Cider, where this cider was aged in used barrels supplied by their neighbor WhistlePig Rye. This cider is a blend of about 90% bittersweet apples and 10% grocery apples, including McIntosh, Empire, Cortland, Dabinett, Somerset Redstreak, Browns, Michelin, and Ellis Bitters. The apples were sourced from Sunrise Orchards in Vermont and Dragon Orchards in Herefordshire, England. With a 6.9% ABV and 1% residual sugar, this cider saw a slow, partial native yeast fermentation.

Then it was aged in Whistlepig barrels, which were previously Sauternes barrels, for about six months. The barrels are then returned to WhistlePig. David stated that cider is very delicate so you must be very careful with barrel aging and they engaged in three years of experimentation before finding something which they felt good for their cider. This is their first batch and they consider it to be a dessert cider. I found it to be more full-bodied and smooth, with a complex melange of flavors, including caramel, honey, vanilla, mild spices and some fruity notes, mostly apple but with some citrus and pear as well. It has only a small touch of sweetness and mild effervescence. A fascinating cider, I think this would be great with cheese.

Another fascinating cider, presented by Eleanor, was the Eden Orleans Herbal Aperitif, which I think is almost an "Apple Vermouth." This cider was developed in collaboration with Deirdre Heekin of La Garagista. Made with Vermont apples, this cider was infused with organic herbs from their own fields, with Basil and Hyssop being the primary herbs. On the nose, the cider presents an alluring aroma of herbs with apple hints and on the palate it is savory and interesting, blending apple flavors with floral notes, herbal accents and a touch of honey. It is about 16% ABV, but the alcohol is well integrated and balanced. With a lengthy, satisfying finish, this is an intriguing and compelling cider, a unique blend which has lots of potential.

Eleanor stated this Aperitif could be simply enjoyed over ice with a twist of lime, though it also works well in cocktails. For example, you could blend it with some Ginger Beer to make an Orleans Mule. Or for something special, you could try a Vermont Vesper, made with Barr Hill Gin and Green Mountain Organic Lemon Vodka. I'm curious how it would do in a Manhattan as a substitute for Vermouth. I want to note that Eden also produces a Bitter version of this Aperitif. At TasteCamp this weekend, I plan on buying some of this Aperitif and look forward to tasting the bitter version too.

We ended the tasting with the Eden Heirloom Blend Ice Cider, which is a blend of about 50% cider apples and has no added sugar. Interestingly, it takes over 8 pounds of apples to create a 375ml bottle of this ice cider. The apple juice is left outside during the winter and it is later aged for a time in French oak, former apple brandy barrels. With a 10% ABV and 15% residual sugar, it is sweet though with balanced acidity so it isn't cloying. It has rich, sweet and tart apple flavors with hints of baking spices. A pleasing after-dinner drink, which I also think would go very well with a Vermont cheese plate.

I asked both Eleanor and David about using these ciders for cooking. Eleanor mentioned that the Orleans Herbal Aperitif would be excellent for general use and that the Ice Cider works well as a reduction for pork dishes. David mentioned that they have a partnership with a Basque cider producer and that their product would work well for a simple Chorizo a la Sidra, chorizo cooked in cider. In addition, the said that Mussels Braised in Cider is another excellent choice.

I love the innovation displayed by these two Vermont cider producers and their dedication to their craft. These are ciders that intrigue and tantalize the palate. And they have uses beyond simply being enjoyed in the glass. They can be part of a craft cocktail or be used in a recipe. This seminar was a  cool glimpse into what TasteCamp Vermont will bring this weekend.

You don't have travel to Vermont for these ciders (though you probably should make the trek to see the cideries) as these ciders are available in Massachusetts through Ruby Wines.

Rant: The Problems of Autumn

Fall in New England is a beautiful time, with the multitude of colors found in the leaves. It is a time for apple picking and hay rides, for savoring the last warm days before the chilly weather strikes. However, the autumn also brings with it a few food and drink issues, some of which I want to address today.

First, Rosé wine is vanishing from the shelves of many wine stores and that's a problem. It still hasn't caught on sufficiently that Rosé is a wine that should be enjoyed year round. Besides being delicious, it is very food friendly and works with plenty of fall and winter dishes. I've ranted before about this issue and will continue to do so until wine stores wake up and start stocking Rosé 365 days a year. There are some wine stores who understand, who keep stocking  Rosé, and they deserve your support and kudos. Tell your local wine shop to carry Rosé even when the trees are bare and even when snow falls on the streets.

Second, apples are such a wonderful and versatile fruit but they can be the subject of a few issues. At many fall markets, carnivals, festivals and more, you'll find candy and caramel apples, which might be covered with coconut, nuts, colored jimmies or other items. Candy apples were invented first, around the turn of the century, though their exact origin is murky. Candy apples, with their distinctive red candy shell, are usually made with a flavored boiled sugar recipe. Caramel apples, made with melted caramel, were first developed by Kraft Foods in the 1950s. The popularity of each varies across the country, though I have been noticing, to my dismay, an increase in the ubiquity of caramel apples locally.

I love candy apples, especially covered with coconut. It is not always easy to take that first crunchy bit of a candy apple, breaking through the hard shell, but it is rewarding. With a fresh, crisp apple, the candy, coconut and fruit make for a very appealing treat. For me, the caramel apple fails. I love caramel, from a nice sweet sauce atop ice cream to a salted, gooey center of a dark chocolate. But I don't like its soft gooey texture on a caramel apple. It is too soft, and just doesn't seem complementary to the crisp apple.

So I am dismayed that red candy apples are much less available lately. Where have they gone? Why aren't they more popular now? Why have caramel apples become much more popular? I don't have answers to these questions. But I want them to bring back my red candy apples. I want that candy crunch rather than the gooey chew.

Third, with apples come Cider Donuts, one of the best foods that exists. I love, love cider donuts but I am also picky as to the type that I enjoy. There are two main types of cider donuts, the heavier, cakey ones and the lighter, softer ones. I prefer the lighter, softer donuts, such as those from Russell Orchards in Ipswich.  They capture the taste of the apple as well as the spices that are added. With the more cakey donuts, you feel full after having one. They also tend to be more dry than the lighter donuts. So why do more farms seem to make the cakey cider donuts?

What are some of your food & drink issues with the fall?

Asturian Cider: Sidra Acebal "El Carrascu"

Besides all of the compelling wines you'll find in Spain, there are also regions well known for their hard cider, which is usually called sidra. One such region, located in the northwestern section of Spain, is Asturias, where sidra has been made for over two thousand years. The ancient Romans referred to this hard cider as pomaria and the Arabs called it siserio. Today, "Cider of Asturias" is a Designation of Protected Origin, regulated and protected by the board Cider of Asturias. Asturias produces about 80% of all Spanish cider, and they also drink more than any other region in Spain.

Currently, there are about 6500 hectares of apple orchards in Asturias, growing over 30 local apple varieties though not all are used for their sidra. They use a blend of acidic and semi-acidic apples for their sidra. In general, Asturian ciders are fermented with native yeasts, aged on the lees and bottled without any fining. They will usually taste dry, be low alcohol and possess high acidity. They should be served cool, but not cold, and can pair well with many foods, especially Asturian sheep cheeses.

Traditional cider houses are known as sidrerias, and there is even a traditional way, called escanciar, to pour it. The bartender holds the cider bottle high in the air and then pours it down to a large, wide-mouthed glass. This long pour helps to aerate the cider and also causes it to make it a little fizzy. Plus, the bartender will only pour a small portion into the cup and the customer is supposed to drink it all immediately. At home, feel free to fill your glass with some sidra and slowly savor it.

Alexander Jules Imports, who I've previously raved about the impressive Sherries they are importing into the U.S., is also importing a few other Spanish wines, including an Asturian Sidra. They recently sent me a media sample of their Sidra Abebal "El Carrascu" D.O.P. (about $12). The Sidra Acebal, which was founded at the end of the 19th century, is located in Gijón, Asturias, and they continue to make sidra in much the same way as they always have done. The El Carrascu uses a blend of apples, mainly Regona, Durona de Tresali, Raxao, Carrio and Limon Montes.

With a nice golden color,which is slightly cloudy as it is unfiltered, this sidra has a bright apple aroma enhanced with herbal elements. Its taste is intriguing, very dry and acidic,with strong apple flavors, with a bit of tartness, and an undertone which almost reminded me of a briny dill pickle, yet in a positive way. It has a more unique flavor for a hard cider, and I very much liked it. At this price point, it is a very good value, especially for a more naturally produced cider. Once again, Alexander Jules has imported something more unique and compelling.

Far From The Tree Hard Cider: Joe Frogger Spice

A hard cider reminiscent of a 200+ year old cookie? Sounds intriguing.

Last November, I raved about the hard ciders from Far From The Tree, a new cidery located in Salem, Massachusetts. Owned by Al & Denise Snape, they craft ciders using local ingredients, traditional methods and want their ciders to reflect history. These are dry ciders, actually closer to bone-dry, and that appeals to my preferences. From November to March, they are producing a winter seasonal cider, their "Joe Frogger" Spiced Cider, which was inspired by a 200+ year old cookie recipe.

If you're from Massachusetts, you might have heard of the Joe Frogger cookie, as they are still available in some locations and the cookie recipe can be found in many different sources. Joseph Brown, aka Old Black Joe or just Black Joe, was a freed slave and a veteran of the Revolutionary War. Around 1791, he and his wife, Lucretia aka Aunt Crease, opened a tavern in Marblehead next to a pond.

Lucretia was the cook for the tavern and created a cookie, which contained molasses, rum and seawater, and was eventually named Joe Frogger, a nod to the frogs in the pond. The cookies may also have originally been lily pad-shaped rather than their now common, round shape. The pond was also eventually named Frogger Pond, a nod to the cookie. Because of the ingredients, these cookies traveled well, remaining soft and chewy even on a long sea voyage. As such, they became very popular with sailors

The Joe Frogger Spiced Cider is made with apples, maple syrup, molasses, fresh ginger, nutmeg, allspice, cloves, and sea salt from the Marblehead Salt Co. All of the spices in this cider can also be found in the Joe Frogger cookies, and the sea salt reflects the old use of seawater in the cookie recipe. These ingredients and spices are commonly used in other winter recipes, from cookies to cocktails, so they work well as a seasonal product.

This cider is available, along with the Roots and Rind, at Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet in Melrose, and that is where I bought a bottle. As the cider is unfiltered, it will be a little cloudy in your glass. The aroma of this cider has a dominant ginger smell, with the other spices and a hint of apple beneath the ginger. On the palate, and despite the maple syrup and molasses, it is bone-dry and the ginger remains the most prominent taste, but with a pleasant underlying melange of spice and fresh apple. Another winner from Far From The Tree, and it would be interesting to substitute this cider for ginger beer in a Dark n' Stormy cocktail.

Far From The Tree Hard Cider: Salem's New Liquid Treasures

"In early eighteenth-century New England, the most popular alcoholic drink, in terms of volume, was locally produced cider. Throughout much of this period, cider served as a currency. It was used to pay salaries and product prices could be quoted in barrels of cider."
--Drink: A Cultural History of Alcohol by Iain Gately

The importance of hard cider in Colonial America cannot be underestimated. Hard cider is an integral element of our history, and it has seen a resurgence in recent years, including the establishment of craft cideries all across the country. I'm a hard cider fan, and have previously reviewed numerous ciders, made in places ranging from Virginia to Canada, Ireland to Massachusetts. I've also previously provided some historical information about the role of cider in U.S. history.

A new cidery, Far From The Tree, has recently opened in Salem, Massachusetts, and it's producing some interesting and delicious hard ciders.

The cidery is owned by Al & Denise Snape. Denise is the Director of Business Operations, and Al is the "Cellar Master," the maker of the ciders. They use freshly pressed apples, obtained from orchards in Central Massachusetts, crafting their ciders using many traditional methods. They want their ciders to reflect history, and that appeals to me. The cidery is not yet open to the public for tours or tastings, though they hope to do so in the near future.

For more in-depth background on Al & Denise, and their cidery, you should check out two recent articles, both excellent, in North Shore Magazine and Edible Boston. I won't repeat what you can find in those articles, and will concentrate instead on the taste of their ciders. I received media samples of their three different ciders, and please note that they will be creating new ciders as well in the near future.

Roots is their Dry New England Hard Cider, made only from pressed apples and maple syrup (which is also obtained from Central Massachusetts). Like all of their ciders, you can find it in 500ml bottles and with an alcohol content of 6.9%. Why did they add maple syrup? Traditionally, maple syrup was added to better preserve the cider during the summer. It can be drunk now though it will also age well for at least a few years. In addition, this cider is fermented twice in the barrel, and then fermented in the bottle, providing it some effervescence.

As the cider is unfiltered, it's a little cloudy, and had a prominent, fresh apple nose which immediately brought to mind the autumn, apple picking at a local farm. When I tasted it, it was more bone-dry, lacking the sweetness that some other hard ciders possess. The addition of the maple syrup did not provide any noticeable sweetness. For myself, that is a positive as I prefer my ciders to be more on the dry side. The apple flavors are clean, crisp and appealing while its mild effervescence makes it refreshing. This would be an excellent summer drink, however, you can drink it year round. It would make a good pairing for a variety of foods too, from pork to seafood. Highly recommended.

Rind is their Saison Cider with Coriander & Orange Rind. This cider was inspired by a special Saison beer that was once made in Belgium during the winter, which was then given to their seasonal workers, as a partial payment, to be enjoyed in the summer. Made with a Saison yeast, and some coriiander and orange peel, it is slow fermented in the winter.

This cider is also unfiltered, and hence a little cloudy, and like Root, had a prominent, fresh apple nose, though there was also a wispy hint of spice. When I tasted it, it was bone-dry with clean and appealing apple flavors, accented by subtle hints of citrus and spice. If you pay more attention to the taste, you'll understand more of its complexity. If you don't pay any attention, you might miss the citrus and spice notes. This cider seemed to possess a bit of a fuller body than the Root, though its mild effervescence was similar, and very refreshing. I enjoyed this cider with a dish of pumpkin ravioli, an excellent autumnal pairing. Drink this year round, and try pairing it with a variety of dishes.

Sprig is their Dry Hopped Mint Cider, which uses cascade hops. The cider is aged in oak barrels, dry hopped for two weeks, and then fresh mint is added the day before bottling. This is a hard cider for beer lovers, who enjoy the taste of hops but are looking for something different than beer to drink. Those fresh apple flavors are there, along with more of that bone dryness. And the mint flavors are very subtle.

Far From The Tree Ciders are available in many different wine stores and restaurants, and you will find the Roots and Rind at Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet in Melrose, the store where I work part-time. Stop on by and pick up some of this new local hard cider.

Farm Stand in Hudson Valley: Big Rock Farms

Prior to our first winery visit of TasteCamp,we arrived about two hours early to the area so engaged in a little exploration. In Stanfordville, we stopped at Big Rock Farms, a  roadside farm stand, to see what we might find, and it turned out to be a worthy destination.

There was an outside area full of local fruits and vegetables, and a small building where you could find more fruits and vegetables, as well as meats, milk, baked goods and more. One of their refrigerators contained lots of local lamb, a variety of cuts, which certainly appealed to me. I did buy some of their milk, which was delicious, pairing well with my cider donut.

Pumpkins of various sizes were available.

A variety of tomatoes were available and we purchased some, enjoying them very much when we later ate them at home. They were fresh, with plenty of flavor to them.

There were many local apples available too, and I picked up and later enjoyed some Mutsu apples.

Potatoes and other root veggies were for sale.

And they sold Cider Donuts, made by The Red Devon, a local restaurant. I couldn't resist buying a couple and they were quite tasty, with a prominent apple cider taste.

If you are in the area, definitely make a stop here.

Boston Wine Expo: An Overview With Food

Intriguing Georgian wines made in traditional clay pots. An abundance of value Portuguese wines. Killer wines from small, artisan producers in Burgundy. Compelling Rhône blends from California. Superb high-end Spanish wines. Grass-fed beef from Uruguay. Hanging out with wine lovers Rob Ciampa and Todd Trzaskos. These are all some of the highlights of my time at the Boston Wine Expo this year.

With a media pass, I attended the trade hours of the Expo on both Saturday and Sunday, and also visited the Vintner's Reserve Lounge on Sunday afternoon. With over 185 wineries showcasing their wines, I could only sample a small fraction of the available wines so choices had to be made, many before I even showed up at the Expo. As I mentioned before, it can be helpful to do some research before hand, to check the exhibitor list and decide where you would like to taste. I always have some flexibility too, in case I find something else compelling that I missed on my prior research.

Overall, the Grand Tasting has a greater diversity of wines than what I found at the Mohegan Sun WineFest Grand Tasting, but still could work on acquiring an even better diversity. For example, there was only a single Sake exhibitor and the South Africa tables were far fewer than last year. There was no Sherry and few local wines. The Expo should be an opportunity to offer different wines, that consumers may know little about, to hopefully make them converts. I'm sure there are economic reasons why some smaller producers won't attend the Expo, but I think there are still plenty of others who could exhibit there who do not currently.

There were a number of food exhibitors at the Expo, offering free samples of their products, from Harrows Chicken Pies to McCrea's Candies. With all the wine tasting, it is beneficial to have food to absorb the alcohol and cleanse the palate. And it can also be interesting to pair some of these foods with the wines you are tasting. While sampling a hearty red wine, it can be nice to have a piece of beef to accompany your taste. You could have tried some chocolate with a Port. There were plenty of pairing options.

I want to present my top three food finds from the Expo, items I recommend to my readers.

Del Terruno, which means "from my small corner of the earth," offered samples of their free range, grass fed beef from Uruguay. The cows are raised in open fields and eat grass throughout the entire year. They are not fed corn at all. This meat is intended to be as natural as possible and the company tries to adhere to good environmental practices. Their meat has excellent traceability, and can be tracked back to the original animal. The meat is lean, but flavorful with more of an earthy taste than the beef you are used to eating. And it made a good pairing with several different red wines. I'll admit that I enjoyed several tastes of this beef during the Expo, finding myself passing by their table multiple times during each day.

The idea of Pasta Chips intrigued me, kind of oven baked crackers made from pasta, so I was curious to taste them at the Expo. Made from semolina flour and Italian herbs, there are currently five different flavors of these chips including Alfredo, Marinara, Spicy Tomato Herb, Garlic & Olive Oil, and Sea Salt. A 5 ounce bag costs about $4. I was impressed, and nearly addicted, with these chips, which were thin but sturdy, had appealing flavors and a nice crunch. The Garlic & Oil was one of my favorite flavors, with a strong garlic taste, though I also very much liked the Alfredo, which had a prominent cheese kick. The chips are strong enough for even a thick dip, though I like them just the way they are.

Pickled vegetables and cherries. Tillen Farms, founded by Tim and Helen Metzger, makes a line of pickled veggies, about ten different kinds, as well as four types of jarred cherries. They promote that their products are more natural, avoiding artificial colors, flavorings and preservatives. If you have food allergies, a number of their products may also be good for you. For example, the Crispy Pickled Carrots are Gluten-Free, Vegan and made in a nut free facility. They were also delicious, with plenty of crispness and a mild pickled flavor. Some of their other pickled veggies include asparagus, beans and snap peas.

Their cherry types include Rainier Reserve, Bada Bing, Pink Blush and Merry Maraschino. Again, these are intended to be more natural with no artificial colors, flavorings and preservatives. I tried all four cherries and each had their own specific taste and you got a sense of freshness from all of them, a lack of the artificial flavor you might be used to in many commercial maraschino cherries. They would be nice additions to a cocktail. They even suggested soaking the Bada Bing cherries in some bourbon for a special cocktail treat.

This year, I also visited the Vintner's Reserve Lounge for the first time since 2008, when I had a very disappointing time which soured me on that event. I can now say that the event has undergone some significant changes, and has become a far better event. First, and very importantly, they now serve a variety of foods at the Vintner's event, and not just cheese & crackers. There were 9 restaurants at the event, providing items like oysters, beef wellington, and seared halloumi. Second, there were no timed tastings. All of the wines were available throughout the entire event.

As limited tickets are sold, this is a much more casual event with few lines at the tables. And there were a number of chairs where you could sit and enjoy some of the sampled wines and foods. There were approximately 100 high-end wines available for sampling, about 60% which were from the U.S., primarily California. Another 20% of the wines were from France, with other wines from Italy, Spain, Argentina, Chile, Portugal and Canada. Once again, I wish there was more diversity in the selections. For example, there was only a single wine from Portugal, and it wasn't even a Port. There were also almost no sparkling wines at the event.

However, I was impressed with nearly all of the wines I tasted in the lounge and would return to this event next year. Tickets for the Vintner's Reserve Lounge cost $185 and I think it is worth it for a wine lover who wants to taste higher-end wines they might not usually purchase. The addition of all the food exhibitors to this event makes it a better deal than if it were only for the wine.

And if you missed the Vintner's Reserve Lounge this year, you missed seeing Chef Jose Duarte, of Taranta, serving a dish made with Del Terruno beef. Check out his Google Glass! Though he is still getting used to them, he had much positive to say about it and thinks they will be beneficial to chefs. And of course, his dish was delicious.

(During the next couple weeks, I'll be posting reviews of the wines I most enjoyed at the Expo.)

Heirloom Flavor: From a Dragon's Tongue to a Nebraska Wedding

"Fresh ingredients--especially heirlooms--packed with flavors are the hallmark of great cuisine."
(Howard, p.7)

The quality of your ingredients is a vital factor in the quality of your final dish. Hybrid fruits and vegetables, the usual produce you find at large supermarkets, were bred for uniform size, resistance to disease, and a longer shelf life. However, they generally were not bred for taste, and don't taste as good or as complex as an heirloom variety. This is a similar situation to heirloom breeds of animals, such as Mangalitsa pigs to Blue Andalusian chickens. Heirloom varieties are starting to become more available at grocery stores, or you could even grow your own, with a little advice for Doreen Howard.

Howard has written Heirloom Flavor: Yesterday's Best-Tasting Vegetables, Fruits, and Herbs for Today's Cook (Cool Springs Press, September 2003, $24.99), a trade paperback of 256 pages. The fascinating book is a blend of recipes, heirloom descriptions & history, and gardening tips. Doreen Howard is a former garden editor at Woman's Day and the gardening columnist at the Christian Science Monitor. It is also said that "she's grown, enjoyed and photographed nearly 300 heirloom edibles."

"Heirlooms also offer colors, shapes, textures, and perfumes not found in hybrids, which have lost those traits by growers who bred them out in exchange for uniformity of size and a long, shelf life."
(Howard, p.11)

The book is broken down into five sections: Vegetables, Fruits, Herbs & Edible Flowers, In The Market & In The Garden, Seed & Farmers' Market Resources. In the introductory pages, Howard describes how heirlooms taste better, are safer from food-borne diseases, maintain diversity and can be less expensive than planting hybrids. The first three sections of the book discuss a variety of heirlooms, though it is not intended to be a comprehensive list. With each basic vegetable or fruit, there is some history and background, cooking advice, two to three recipes, and then colorful photos of numerous heirloom varieties.

The Vegetable section occupies about 70% of the book while the Fruit section only discusses apples, pears and Asian pears, although melons are covered in the Vegetable section. Heirlooms can possess intriguing and fun names such as Dragon's Tongue beans, Purple Dragon carrots, Bloody Butcher corn, Tennis Ball lettuce, Georgia Rattlesnake melons, Dwarf Telephone peas, Fish peppers, Long Island Cheese pumpkins, Nebraska Wedding tomatoes, and Sheep's Nose apples. They even sound better than hybrids. Besides basic cooking advice for the heirlooms, the book also contains over 40 recipes, most which are fairly simple to prepare.

"Heirlooms are not only luscious in taste and appearance, but many have histories richer than some countries."
(Howard, p.12)

The In The Market & In The Garden section begins with a description of what to look for when buying produce at your local market. For example, when selecting a pear, press at the neck near the stem. If the skin gives a little, then it should be mature and sweet. Then, the section produces , suggestions and advice on growing your own heirloom vegetables and fruit, even if you only have a small area available for growing. As many heirlooms are not readily available at your local market, growing your own might be one of the only ways you get to taste their heirlooms. And buying heirloom seeds is much easier than finding the actual fruit and vegetables at the store. There is even advice on saving your own seeds, which you can trade with others.

The final section, Seed & Farmers' Market Resources, provides two pages of links of Sources for Seeds, Sources of Fruit Trees & Plants, Seed Saving Exchanges and more.

"Each heirloom, from an Alpine strawberry to Blue Lake pole bean, possesses a distilled intense essence layered with nuances you won't get from a hybrid."
(Howard, p.13)

Visually, the book is compelling with numerous photos of a wide range of heirlooms, allowing you to identify them if you see them at a local market. The book is filled with plenty of practical information too, from cooking to gardening. My only complaint is that I would have liked to see more fruit represented in this book. The book will open your eyes to the vast diversity which often eludes people because large corporations chose to champion uniform hybrids, sacrificing flavor, rather than heirloom varieties. If you have any interest in heirlooms, which you should, then I recommend you check out this book.

Rant: Don't Drink & Durian

The infamous Durian fruit, native to Southeast Asia, has a reputation for possessing one of the most foul odors you will ever smell. However, there are plenty of people, especially in Southeast Asia, who love the taste, and even the smell, of this fruit. In Indonesia, Durian flavored condoms are even very popular. You can find Durians locally in some Asian grocery stores, and its thorny exterior is very distinctive and recognizable. For some people, they might have to be really drunk before they were willing to try a Durian.

I was intrigued this weekend to learn from The Drinks Business that some students from the National University of Singapore have created the world’s first wine made from Durian. Allegedly, the wine has a rich creamy color and a buttery taste, and does not taste like the fruit itself. The students hope to make it commercially available, though I wouldn't expect to see it on U.S. shelves anytime in the near future. It would likely start in Southeast Asia and could take years before it reaches us.

However, this raises an important health issue, that drinking and Durian don't mix. What do I mean? Well, drinking alcohol while consuming Durian fruit can be dangerous, and potentially even lethal. For a long time, this has been considered a bit of folklore, and though there were alleged incidents of deaths caused by alcohol and Durian, most seemed to believe there was no rational basis for the belief. But there is at least one scientific study which provides support to this belief.

A New Scientist article reported on the results of a study by John Maninang and Hiroshi Gemma from the University of Tsukuba, Japan who sought to determine if durian and alcohol did pose any danger. The results seemed to show that the high sulfur content of Durian significantly impaired the breakdown odd alcohol in the body. More specifically, the Durian "inhibited the activity of aldehyde dehydrogenase - an enzyme that clears toxic breakdown products - by up to 70%." This enzyme is the liver's primary defense against the toxic effects of alcohol, so that if the enzyme is prevented from doing its job, a person could technically die from alcohol poisoning.

So it might be better to be safe than sorry, and don't drink alcohol while consuming Durian fruit.

However, what about this Durian wine? It should be safe as the fermentation process significantly reduces sulfur levels, to trace amounts, so its effect on the enzyme should be nominal. So if the Durian wine ever ends up on U.S. shelves, it will be safe to consume.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) Boston Chops, the new steakhouse in the South End, is debuting a new Brunch menu, held every  Saturday and Sunday, from 10am-3pm, including some elements of their Rarely Celebrated beef cuts. Their food menu is divided into the following sections: Raw, their full raw menu is available for brunch; Tossed, with three salads not available on the dinner menu, including Lobster Cobb Salad (grilled avocado along with the lettuces, ½ a lobster, sharp cheddar, egg and grilled bacon, $24). The Unnamed section of the menu features items such as Huevos Rancheros, with machaca beef cheeks, black beans, grilled avocado, and a tortilla ($14); Brisket Shank & Grilled Tongue "Hash" with a 2hr egg, frites, cheese curds and gravy ($14); Giannone Fried Chicken with biscuits, sawmill gravy, sausage, and pepper jelly ($19), Brunch Frites, bottomless frites with a selection of either grilled steaks (a choice of three 8oz cuts) or sandwiches (corned brisket & tongue reuben $14, burger with house bacon, BC sauce & cheddar, $15, croque monsieur $15) served with the choice of select sauces from the dinner menu. For Sides, try the House Made Pecan Sticky Buns ($7) or House Made Donuts with Chocolate Sauce ($7).

On the beverage menu, you will find Prime Bloodies, culinary infused Bloody Marys, a collaboration between the kitchen and the bar. All bloodies can be “cooked” to order: Rare – bold house made Bloody Mary mix, Medium– add spice to your life, Well Done– when you want to play with fire. Selections include: Pickled Mary with asparagus, green beans, frog balls, and cornichons – all pickled in house ($10); Smoked Kebab with speared bell peppers, pearl onions, and smoked beef tongue ($10); Charred Shishito with pepper jack cheese, grilled shishito pepper, and lemon ($10); Steak & Cheese with veal stock and blue cheese stuffed olives ($10).

2) The Beehive Restaurant's latest celebration will be “La Fête nationale du Québec” or “Quebec National Day” featuring an evening of food and live performance from award-winning singer-songwriters Isabelle Cyr and Yves Marchand on Monday, June 24, from 5pm-1am. In partnership with the Quebec Delegation of Boston and Svedka Vodka, The Beehive will be decked out representing our friends to the north in proper fashion as Cyr and Marchand perform original, well-known and traditional pieces from their Quebec and Acadian repertoire from 8pm-12am.

Highlighting the true friendliness of Quebec and its people, dinner will kick off at 5pm with a La Fête nationale du Québec specials menu in addition to The Beehive’s regular fare. The evening’s food will feature traditional Quebec fare such as: Smoked Trout Cakes with Horseradish & Cucumber Salad ($12), Foie Gras & Maple Crème Brulée ($14), Brome Lake Duck Breast Au Poivre with Sweet Potato Fries ($27), Québec style Lobster Spaghetti ($32), and Bleu berries pie with Maple syrup ice cream ($8).

In the mood for some Quebec cocktails why not try some of The Beehive’s fun featured cocktails for the evening such as the "Caribou de Ville” ($11.50) blending together red wine, American Honey Wild Turkey splashes of maple syrup, served on the rocks with a cinnamon stick, or the "Quebec Urbain" ($11.50) made with Svedka Clementie, blood orange juice and muddled fresh mint served on the rocks.

There is no cover charge for this event, but dinner reservations are highly recommended, so please call 617-423-0069.

3) The Grafton Inn introduces the first annual Grafton Food Festival, a celebration of local food and farms in Vermont, to be held June 22 and 23, from 10am-4pm, in Grafton Village. The event is presented by Northeast Flavor, a food and wine magazine focused on New England culinary pursuits. Celebrate Vermont’s “taste of place” and sample local food from more than 20 local food providers including Grafton Village Cheese, Side Hill Farm, Vermont Creamery, Blake Hill Preserves, Wright Orchard Sugarworks, Vermont Smoke and Cure and more. Additional food vendors, a bar and local farms will be set-up for purchased items, as well.

Guests will have the chance to enjoy cooking demonstrations each day featuring nationally recognized chefs including Susan Tuveson and Jean Kerr of Northeast Flavor, Jason Tostrup of the Inn at Weathersfield, Martin Schuelke of the Grafton Inn and more. One lucky attendee at each of the five cooking demonstrations will win the prepared food and sit at a special Chef’s Table at the event to enjoy it.

Cost is $10 per person; children under 12 are free. The Grafton Inn will offer specially priced farm-to-table dinner menus at the Old Tavern Restaurant on Friday and Saturday evening. Friday night is a Vegetarian themed tasting dinner (with a meat option) and Saturday night is a local Pasture to Plate tasting dinner. Reservations are necessary for each dinner. Additional activities in Grafton this weekend include guided wine and cheese hikes at Grafton Ponds Outdoor Center on Saturday and Sunday at 1:30 p.m. ($25 per person) and live music at Phelps Barn Pub on Friday and Saturday night at 8 pm (no cover). The Grafton Inn is offering a special Grafton Food Festival lodging package that includes two night’s lodging at the historic inn, breakfast each morning, entry to the Food Festival and a special Food Festival welcome bag for just $375.

For the complete event agenda and to book lodging or dinner reservations, visit GraftonFoodFestival.com or call 800-843-1801.

4) Beginning Sunday, June 9, TICO hosts a monthly Summer Patio Party with food, drinks, music, games, giveaways and fun. On Sunday, July 14, from 2pm-8pm, there will be an All-American BBQ. Technically it’s Bastille Day, but don’t tell that to TICO – they’re still celebrating the Fourth well into July with classic BBQ fare like burgers, dogs, ribs, cornbread; beer samples, giveaways from Patron Tequila, and music from DJ Jaz. On Sunday, August 11, from 2pm-8pm, there will be a Patio Pig Roast. Closing out the summer with another of TICO’s winning pig roasts, the patio will be rocking once more with all-you-can-eat porchetta from the rig roast, sides, beer samples, giveaways from Patron Tequila, and music from DJ Jaz.

COST: $20/person at the door includes all-you-can-eat food, beer & spirit tastings, giveaways and live music from DJ Jaz of the Boston Celtics

5) Bistro 5, a phenomenal Italian restaurant in Medford, is celebrating strawberries and local agriculture from June 13-June 29, with a special 5 Course Tasting Menu with Wine Pairings. 50% of their dessert sales will benefit the Federation of Massachusetts Farmers Market.

The Menu is:
Strawberry Thyme Chilled Soup (Port Wine Syrup, Mascarpone and Prosciutto)
2011 Aragosta, Vermentino, Sardegna
Scungilli (Thinly Sliced Conch, Green Strawberries and Spring Onion Vinaigrette)
2011 Loosen Bros "Dr .L" Riesling, Germany
Goat Cheese Ravioli (Strawberry Confetti and Shishito Peppers)
2009 Montaribaldi, Dolcetto d'Alba
Duck Milanese (Strawberry and Window Box Shiso, Rhubarb and Cherry Compote)
2009 Zenato, Valpolicella, Ripasso
Strawberry Shortcake (White Chocolate Mousse and Lemon Cloud)
2011 Elio Perrone 'Bigarò', Brachetto d'Aqui

Cost: Tasting Menu--Five Course: $68 per person or Three Course: $49 per person
Wine Pairing--Five Course: $25 per person or Three Course: $20 per person

For reservations, please call (781) 395-7464

6) Chef-owner Chris Douglass of Ashmont Grill is hosting four special dining events this summer. Prices and menus vary.

Monday, June 24 @ 6 PM 
Joel Gott Wine Dinner: Cost $65 inclusive for 5 courses of seasonal cuisine, served communally on the patio and paired with 5 wines from this white-hot winery. Gott’'s local representative will speak. Seating for this event limited to the first 25 people who call to reserve a space.
Sunday, July 14 @ 6 PM 
Pig Roast: This exciting outdoor pork-a-thon features a traditional pig roast with all the fixin’s plus selected beers and wines. Cost is $60 inclusive.
Sunday, August 11 @ 6 PM 
Lobstah Bake: New Englanders know that this feast always includes our favorite crustacean, plus local corn, potatoes, clams, hot dogs, watermelon and more. Act fast as seating is limited @ $60 inclusive.
Sunday, September 8 @ 6 PM 
Dueling Chefs of Dorchester: This exciting competition pits the kitchen teams of Ashmont Grill and Tavolo (our sister restaurant) against each other in an end-of-the-season patio party chock full of local farm fare, meats, fish, psta, homey desserts, wine and beer. $75 inclusive.

Rain dates for all four events will be posted online.

7) Joseph Cassinelli, Chef & Owner of the Alpine Restaurant Group, announced three new hires to his restaurant team. The Alpine Restaurant Group currently owns and operates Posto, Posto Mobile and The Painted Burro in Davis Square. These are some of my favorite restaurants. Alpine Restaurant Group has named two inaugural positions including: Alec Riveros as Director of Operations and Chef Robert Jean as the Culinary Director of the group. Additionally, Chef Wyatt Maguire joins as Executive Chef of Posto.

“In 2010, Posto was one of the first restaurants to debut in the resurgence of the Davis Square restaurant scene,” says Joseph Cassinelli. “It is New England’s first Verace Pizza Napoletana certified pizzeria, but over time it has evolved to be much more. Under the direction of our new team, guests can now enjoy a dining experience that highlights the simplicity of Italian cuisine augmented with the New England bounty. An extensive antipasti program of small plates, handmade pasta dishes, and local grilled meats and fish are labors of love that we are all excited to share.”

The new menu at Posto showcases the simplicity of Italian cooking with a focus on artisan ingredients. The menu includes a new section of Stouzi (white bean puree with cauliflower giardinerre), Ensalate (string bean salad with fava, pea, sunchoke, Gaeta olive and pistachio pesto) and Primi (ciabatta with rosemary roasted peach, foie gras & lavender sea salt). The Pasta section features an expanded selection of hand made dishes such as a rabbit tagliatelle with peas, carrots, toasted garlic, farm egg & tarragon. The Pizza selections offer both rosso and bianco selections and continue to be made in the true Neapolitan spirit with “00” flour, San Marzano tomatoes, and house made fior di latte mozzarella. A new section of Carne e Pesce showcases wood roasted meat as well as an extended selection of seafood dishes such as whole roasted sea bass “cartocchio” with spicy pomodoro, fennel & saffron sea salt and brook trout with kale, chiogga beet, sweet onion & bone marrow “almondine.”

The beverage program at Posto has also been revamped. The cocktail list now includes a selection of Aperitivo such as Aperol Spritz which is available by the pitcher, Cocktails made with house infused spirits, house made limoncello and simple syrups, in addition to selections of local and international draft and bottled beer. The wine list features sparkling, rose, white and red wine selections available both by the bottle and by the glass. Posto’s beverage program also features an imported Italian wine preservation system called Enzo. Enzo’s extensive wine by the glass program allows guests to enjoy rare selections of reserve wines by the glass. I look forward to checking out all the changes.