The Canteen: Chowder to the Crobster--Dartmouth, Nova Scotia

While in Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, just across the water from Halifax, we stopped for lunch at The Canteen, a restaurant which has received many accolades. Chef, and co-owner, Renée Lavallée is very well known in Nova Scotia and even participated in the seventh season of Top Chef Canada. Located in downtown Dartmouth, it seats about sixty people and has a homey ambiance. Their website states they serve "honest, unpretentious food, made with love" and their menu is "influenced by classic French, Italian and traditional Nova Scotian cuisine - with a little bit of Renée's magic thrown in."

From their Tap selection, I opted for the Lake City Cider Neiforth Original Cider ($9). The cidery is located in Dartmouth on Portland Street. The Neiforth is made from 100% Nova Scotian apples, is semi-dry and has a 6.8% ABV. It was quite tasty, with a rich apple flavor, hints of apple pie pieces, and was mostly dry, with only hints of sweetness. 

The Lunch menu includes Sandwiches ($13-$23), such as the The Canteen Burger and The Haddock Burger; Salads & Soups ($13-$17), such as Heirloom Tomato Salad and Snow Crab Dip; and Not Sandwiches ($15-$17), such as Tuna Soba Noodle Bowl and Mussel & Frites. It's a relatively small menu but with plenty of varied options. The Menu is also subject to change, especially dependent on the availability of ingredients. 

I opted for a bowl of The Canteen Chowder ($17), which was made with haddock, smoked haddock, mussels, lobster, bacon, and fresh dill, as well as accompanied by a homemade biscuit. An excellent and complex dish, with fresh seafood flavors, a smoky element, and a delectable broth. Pure comfort food and perfect for all seafood lovers. 

The Crobster Roll ($23) is a blend of Nova Scotia snow crab and lobster, with grainy mustard, truffle aioli, and fresh dill, on a long, toasted roll. The addition of the snow crab was an intriguing extra, providing more seafood sweetness to the sandwich. The sandwich contained plenty of seafood, with only a slight addition of mustard and aioli. Another very tasty option.

My first impressions of The Canteen were very positive, and I'd recommend it to my readers, especially seafood lovers. 

Steamers Lobster Company & Lobster Poutine: St. John, New Brunswick

On our recent journey to Nova Scotia, we drove and because of the length of that drive, about 12 hours, we decided to roughly break the trip into two days. So, we chose to stay the night in St. John, New Brunswick. For dinner that evening, we ended up at Steamers Lobster Company, which turned out to be an excellent choice.

It's a very casual spot, with a nautiacal theme, and most of the menu consists of seafood, although there are a few non-seafood options too. For Appetizers, you'll find items like Bacon-Wrapped Scallops, Wild Alsaka Pollock Wings, and Oven Crunch Buffalo Shrimp. Their Deep Fried Platters include dishes like Clams & Chips, Fish & Chips, and a Salmon Burger. The Captain's Favorites include choices like New Brunswick Snow Crab, Poached Salmon Dinner, and a Chilled Seafood Tower.

I began with a cup of tasty Seafood Chowder ($8--all prices are in Canadian dollars). It was filled with plenty of seafood, in a thinner and creamy broth, and was quite tasty. Seafood chowder seems to be a more popular item than clam chowder in these parts of Canada. 

We also ordered an appetizer of Mussels ($13), plump and flavorful mussels in a delicious and light broth, perfect for bread dipping. 

For me, the highlight of the meal was an appetizer which I enjoyed as my entree, the Lobster Poutine ($25) Crisp french fries, topped by a light gravy (likely chicken), cheese curds, and a plentiful amount of lobster meat. A decadent and delicious treat, the fries generally held up well to the gravy, maintaining much of their crispness, and the sweet lobster meat was a fine addition. This would have been an excellent poutine without the lobster, but the addition of the lobster elevated the dish and pleased my palate. Highly recommended!

Unfortunately, I didn't take a pic of the Lobster Roll ($27), but it too was excellent, cold with very light mayo and plenty of sweet lobster meat. 

Service was excellent and this would be a fine, casual spot for delicious seafood if you ever visit St. John.

Pictou County Pizza: A Nova Scotian Specialty

I've easily visited Nova Scotia over a dozen times, but it wasn't until my most recent visit that I experienced Pictou County Pizza for the first time. This is a regional pizza style that originated in Pictou County during the 1960s. The name "Pictou" is of unknown origin, although there are some speculations, such as it being related to a Mi'kmaq term or to a province in France. 

Pictou County Pizza is unique as it's made with a brown sauce, rather than a red sauce, and it's loaded with a local, spicy pepperoni. The crust is also a bit thicker, definitely not a thin crust pizza. The most commonly accepted origin story is that two Greek immigrant brothers, George and Demetre Kouyas, opened Sam's Pizza in Stellarton around 1962. For unknown reasons, they decided to make their pizzas with a spicy brown tomato sauce, creating this regional style. Over time, other pizza places, generally owned by relatives of the Kouyas, have opened and also sell Pictou County Pizza. 

Although the brown sauce (which is actually more of a reddish-brown color) recipe is supposed to be a family secret, you can find recipes online, such as here, although it's unsure how close those recipes are to the actual sauce. Some pizza shop owners have also bottled their brown pizza sauce, which can be found in grocery stores in Canada, so you can try to make your own Pictou County pizza at home. 

Pictou County Pizza is usually made with “Brothers-style” pepperoni, which originated from two Polish immigrants, Max and Chris Kielbratowski, who opened meat shops in Nova Scotia. Over time, the family members went off on their own related endeavors, leading to three businesses: Original Brothers, Chris Brothers or 2 Boys: All three produce similar spicy pepperoni, based on the same family recipe, so all three are collectively known as the “Brothers-style” pepperoni. 

On my most recent trip to Nova Scotia, I stayed at a house in Dartmouth, and one of the closest places to get food, especially delivered, was Baini's Pizza on Caldwell Road in Dartmouth. As I perused their menu, I noticed they served Pictou Style Pizza four different ways. I had to google Pictou Style but once I read about it, I knew I had to try it. 

Of their four different Pictou pizzas, the first is a more traditional one, with Brother's style smoked pepperoni and Mozzarella cheese. There was also a Combo with smoked pepperoni, mushrooms, green peppers, and extra Mozzarella cheese, a 4 Meats Combo made with smoked pepperoni, salami, hamburger, bacon, and extra Mozzarella cheese, and a 4 Veggies Combo with mushrooms, green peppers, tomatoes, red onions, and extra Mozzarella cheese. 

I initially ordered a small, traditional Pictou pizza (pictured above) and enjoyed it so much that I ordered two more, larger ones, on different days during my stay. The photo at the top of this post is a 16 inch Pictou pizza. 

The crust is a bit thicker, with a nice chewy texture, and there is a thick layer of spicy pepperoni slices mostly located beneath the layer of cheese. There's much more pepperoni in this pizza than you'll find on most other pizza styles. The sauce is more savory and spicy than many red sauces, but about the same consistency, and it's quite delicious. It complements the pizza quite well. The spiciness of the pizza, from the sauce and pepperoni, was compelling, and I'm definitely going to miss that pizza now that I'm back home. 

Have you ever had Pictou County Pizza?

Early History of Sake Brewing in British Columbia

When was the first Sake brewery constructed in North America?

As I previously wrote, in A History of Sake Brewing in the U.S., the first legal Sake brewery in the U.S. started producing Sake in 1902, though there had been an earlier idea, which did not come to fruition, to start a brewery in Chicago in 1892. Was the U.S. the first country in North America with a Sake brewery? My latest research indicates there was likely a large-scale Sake brewery in British Columbia (B.C.) before 1902, but it was an illegal operation.

As Japanese immigrants came to the U.S. in the 1880s, some of the first Japanese immigrants to Western Canada arrived around 1889, to the coal mines in Cumberland. Others would soon follow, often coming to work on the railroads, in fisheries or the logging industry. Vancouver became the center of the Japanese community. By 1900, there were about 4600 Japanese in B.C. and by 1911, there would be about 8600, far smaller numbers than those that immigrated to Hawaii or California. And where there were Japanese immigrants, there was Sake.

Ryoji Onodera, who would become a significant figure in early Sake brewing in B.C., was born in 1854 in the Miyagi Prefecture of Japan. In 1875, he married Uino Oikawa, whose father was a businessman involved in the transport industry, and he was subsequently adopted into their family, changing his name to Jinsaburo Oikawa. During the next twenty years, Jinsaburo became a successful business and, in time, was intrigued with reports of "the tremendous volume of salmon in the Fraser River (in Vancouver) and how fishermen discarded salmon roe, a delicacy in Japan."  Seeing a business opportunity, he traveled to Vancouver in August 1896 and liked what he found. He returned to Japan to gain more experience and acquire some workers, and then went back to Vancouver in 1897.

Jinsaburo and a partner, Souemon Sato, settled in Sunbury, "a rural district located on the south side of the south arm of the Fraser River directly opposite Don and Lion Islands.” Soon enough, he "brewed sake for sale to Japanese and trade with whites in exchange for dog salmon." In May 1899, he traveled to Japan and then returned to Vancouver, bringing with him a Sake brewer, Juro Saito, and a cooper, Tatsunosuke Suzuki. Oikawa's plans were to produce Sake, soy sauce and miso for the Japanese community in and around Vancouver. Eventually, in early 1901, Oikawa and about thirty others relocated to Don Island, which was previously uninhabited and located on the Frasier River, though the island soon became known as Oikawa-jima.

One of the first buildings they constructed on the island was a Sake brewery, showing the great importance of Sake to their community. The cooper would use cottonwood trees to construct barrels. Enough Sake was soon produced that some could be traded or sold to other local residents, much of it traded for dog salmon. For white fishermen, dog salmon were considered relatively worthless, but it was a commodity of value to the Japanese. Interestingly, two types of Sake were produced, a clear Sake to trade with white fishermen for the salmon, and a type of nigori, a cloudy Sake, for the Japanese. Because of their Sake business, Jinsaburo gained a new nickname, “raw sake Oijin.”

Despite Oikawa's Sake brewery being illegal, the authorities had never bothered it because they saw it as something too small scale for their attention, as well as something that was largely directed at the Japanese community. However, after receiving some complaints, possibly from competitors, the local police felt compelled to act. In September 1911, the police raided and shut down the brewery.  .

Much of the above information is based, in part, on a historical novel that was written by Jiro Nitta and published in 1979. Though some of the book is fictional, it is strongly rooted in fact, and based on numerous unpublished sources, including an autobiography by Oikawa. Additional sources have verified much of the information with the novel, and noted where there were fictional aspects. The general information about the early Sake brewing appears to be largely accurate, and supported by other sources.  

For example, Buck Suzuki, who was born into the Don Island community, verified that Sake brewers were brought from Japan and that the operation was on a large scale. He noted that the rice for the Sake was stored in huge barrels while thousands of gallons of Sake were produced. He also mentions that the police did raid the brewery, using axes to break open the barrels. Another man who lived in the area during that time, Albert Olson, stated that the Sake was being sold for $2 per gallon, or 35 cents per bottle.

The first legal Sake brewery in British Columbia originated around 1923, though there is some confusion over its legal status during its early years of existence. The Victoria Daily Times, July 19, 1923, noted that "Vancouver interests obtained approval for the organization of the Vancouver Malt & Sake Brewery Co. Ltd, with a capital of $100,000." This new company, located at 2235 Triumph Street, planned on producing a large amount of Sake for both Japanese consumers and others. The article stated the Sake will be "sold through Government liquor stores, as many white persons have taken to the Oriental drink.”

The brewery was founded by Koichiro Sanmiya, a Japanese businessman who was born in Sendai, Japan, around 1880 and came to Vancouver in 1907. He also owned the Strand Hotel restaurant, an import/export business, and the Canada Daily Newspaper, a Japanese-language newspaper. He also founded the Canadian Japanese Association. At the time, his license for the Sake brewery was the only distiller's license issued in British Columbia so it was clear there were no other legal Sake breweries in the region. Unfortunately, Sanmiya died in March 1931 of appendicitis.

The Vancouver Malt & Sake Brewery Co. Ltd. though faced a significant obstacle from the start, though this is where some confusion enters the situation. Two days after the announcement of the plans for the Sake brewery, The Victoria Daily Times, July 21, 1923 reported on the strong opposition to the plans from Attorney General Alexander Manson. Manson received a report on illegal Sake manufacture which noted that Sake consumption had "reached the proportions of a great evil.” And Manson's reaction was mentioned, “As soon as he learned of the evils of the sake trade Mr. Manson put machinery in motion to have the whole thing checked.”

One of the items in the report was that the Japanese were supplying it to the Indians, getting them intoxicated, and then taking advantage of them in trading for fish. Manson decided that no licenses to manufacture Sake should be authorized and he made it clear that "he will refuse his consent to the operations of the $100,000 sake corporation’s operations in Vancouver. This means that this company will not be able to operate."

For about the next three years, there appeared to be no mention in the newspapers of the Vancouver Malt & Sake Brewery Co. Ltd. so potentially they were denied authorization to operate their Sake brewery. Then, the Times Colonist, July 19, 1926, mentioned that authorities, seeking a source of illegal Sake, raided and seized control of the Vancouver Malt & Sake Brewery Co. Ltd. They found that the brewery was well-equipped and possessed "large quantities of liquor in cases for shipment or in the process of brewing." They arrested the only person they found at the brewery and left Provincial policemen behind to maintain guard over the facility.

In a curious turn of events, The Province, August 6, 1926, reported that “A charge of keeping liquor for sale laid against the Vancouver Malt & Saki Co. was dismissed by Police Magistrate J.A. Findlay." The person who was arrested, Sam Miya, the manager, was charged with selling liquor, pled guilty and received a $300 fine. "In the charge against the company, the defense contended that there was no evidence of other than one sale and none to show that other liquor in the place was to be disposed of illegally.”

The fact they didn't shut down the brewery for being an illegal still operation seems to indicate that it possessed a license to manufacture Sake, despite the Attorney General's prior opposition. However, they would have been obligated only to sell through Sake through government liquor stores. They couldn't sell it directly to any customers, including restaurants. bars, tea houses, etc. The police magistrate's decision makes sense then, as there wasn't any evidence that the brewery was selling their Sake outside of the government liquor stores.

In 1927, Vancouver Malt & Sake Brewery Co. Ltd. entered into a contract with the Vancouver Brewers Ltd., which primarily manufactured beer. Vancouver Malt agreed not to brew or sell beer, for a period of fifteen years, in exchange for $15,000 and to obtain a listing in the government liquor stores for their Sake. This would help Vancouver Malt in their Sake production. That simple agreement though would eventually become a major point of legal contention.

The first advertisement I found for the Sake produced by Vancouver Malt & Sake Brewery Co. Ltd. was in The Province, January 9, 1931. Their brand is Masamune, listed as “A Pure Rice Beer” at 28% proof spirit (14% ABV). It was priced at 70 cents for a 26 ounce bottle.

Around February 1932, after the death of Sanmiya, the Vancouver Malt & Sake Brewery Co. Ltd. was sold. Sanmiya's eldest son had come from Japan to take over the operation of the Sake brewery, but had difficulty replicating the Sake once made by his father. Thus, Sanmiya's wife, Morio, decided to sell the brewery. It was purchased by I.B. Hewer, of the real estate firm of McGregor & Hewer, and Fritz Sick, a veteran Alberta beer brewer. They also bought a site at 1445 Powell Street and began to construct a brewery, with the objective of producing beer. Fritz is also the president of the Associated Breweries of Canada Limited, the second largest brewing concern in the region.

Hewer and Sick apparently failed to do their due diligence as they immediately ran into legal difficulties. Vancouver Breweries Ltd. filed an injunction to enforce the agreement, specifically the noncompete section, it had entered into with Vancouver Malt back in 1927. According to that agreement, Hewer and Sick wouldn't be able to brew beer at their facility until 1942. Lengthy legal proceedings began, and Vancouver Malt was at least initially prevented from making beer. At the conclusion of the first trial, in June 1832, Vancouver Breweries prevailed and the noncompete was enforced. The decision was appealed by Vancouver malt.

In August 1932, Vancouver Malt was incorporated, an indication of confidence in their business. However, in January 1933, the Appeals Court upheld the previous verdict so Vancouver Malt took the next step, an appeal to the Privy Court in London. During the course of these legal proceedings, Fritz Sick took some time to travel to Japan, to study the manufacture of Sake. When he returned to Vancouver, he decided to produce Sake, especially as he couldn't yet make any beer.

Fritz decided to keep the Masamune brand name, but decided to push the Sake as a cocktail mixer and even provided a number of cocktail recipes using the Sake. The ad states, “Masamune is a pure cereal brew matured to minute timing and produced under the most exacting conditions of cleanliness. When the weather is warm try with well-cooled ginger ale or lemon. On a cool evening…if you would enjoy the true Oriental flavor….serve clear, and quite warm.” The price was reduced from 70 cents to 55 cents for a 26 ounce bottle.

Their first cocktail recipe was provided in an ad in The Province, June 21, 1933. The Masamune Julep is a mix of ½ ounce Gin, 1 ½ ounces Masamune Sake, a dash of Grenadine, and a dash of Pineapple Juice. Add crushed ice and a sprig of Mint dipped in fine sugar. Mix in the long glass. Add other fruit if desired and serve with a straw.

In The Vancouver Sun, June 30, 1933, the new recipe was for the Masamune Pink Lady, “A mid-summer cocktail delicate as its name—pleasing and palatable." It is a mix of 8 parts Masamune Sake, 1 part Italian Vermouth, 1 part French Vermouth, 2 parts Gin, 2 dashes of Grenadine, 2 dashes of Lemon Juice, and 2 dashes of Pineapple Juice. Add crushed ice and mix in shaker.

The Vancouver Sun, July 7, 1933, presented the Masamune Dry Cocktail, “Served as an appetizer with a cherry or an olive—this Masamune Dry Cocktail is always a favorite.” It is a mix of 6 portions Masamune Sake, 2 portions of French Vermouth, 1 portion of Italian Vermouth, and 3 drops of Angostura bitters. Add crushed ice and mix in shaker.

For large parties, The Vancouver Sun, July 14, 1933, presents a recipe for the Masamune Punch Bowl. You'll need a large punch bowl as it is a mix of 6 bottles of Masamune Sake, 2 bottles of French Vermouth, 2 bottles of Italian Vermouth, and a few drops of Angostura bitters. Add crushed ice, a twist of Lemon Peel and other fruits if desired.

The Province, August 16, 1933, presented a recipe for the Masamune Fizz. It is a mix of 3 ounces Masamune Sake, 1 ounce gin, a dessert spoon of pure cream, 3 teaspoons powdered sugar, cracked or crushed ice. Stir well and pour into glass. Fill with club soda. If using crushed ice, strain off into glass before adding soda.

Allegedly, the Masamune Sake was even curative! In an advertisement in The Vancouver Sun, September 8, 1933, it states; “Serve warm for a cold. Masamune is widely recognized as being highly beneficial in relieving colds, and that is a big item now the rainy season is arrived. Serve quite warm either by itself or blended with hot lemonade.” Some people swear by a hot toddy, and this is simply more of a Japanese version, with a Canadian twist.

Good news than arrived for the Hewer and Sick of Vancouver Malt & Sake Brewery Co. Ltd. in February 1934. The Privy Council overruled lower courts and sided with the defendants, allowing them to now brew beer. The brewery at Vancouver Malt was then renovated so it could produce beer and the company name was changed, in July 1934, to the Capilano Brewing Co, Ltd. That same month, they released their first beer, under the trade name “Capilano.” Was this the end of their Sale production?

Initially, you might have thought that they would continue to make Masamune Sake. The Province, November 2, 1934 presented an ad for “The New Masamune,” though the price had risen to 70 cents. The producer is now listed as Capilano Brewing Co. Ltd. The ad declares, “Brewed to perfection in the only Sake plant in the British Empire. The New Masamune, declared by experts to be the finest product of its kind in the market, is now on sale at Government Liquor Stores. Smooth as a rare old wine, The New Masamune is a pure cereal brew matured to minute timing under the most exacting conditions of temperature and cleanliness. Unvarying in content, purity and clarity, it is ideal for making cocktails since it blends so readily with other liquors and mixes perfectly with any favorite soft drink. And it is so economical, enabling you to serve in large numbers at surprisingly low cost with minimum of preparation.”

The ad also presented another Sake cocktail, The Soldier’s Cocktail. It is a mix of 1 part Rum “proof”, 8 parts Masamune Sake, a dash of pineapple juice to suit flavor, and a drop or few drops of Angostura Bitters. Strain and serve in cocktail glass. Dash of grenadine may be used. The approximate cost of the cocktail is 6 cents each.

In another ad, The Vancouver Sun, November 28, 1934, presented a recipe for the Masamune Flip. It is a mix of 6 oz Masamune, the juice of ½ orange, 1 whole egg, 2 teaspoons sugar, 2 pinches nutmeg, and ice. Shake well. Serve in wine glass. Approximate cost is 4 cents each.

However, the ads for Masamune Sake seem to end in 1934 and the only other reference I found was in The Vancouver Sun, March 28, 1935, where there is a mention that the price of Masamune Sake at government liquor stores had dropped to 60 cents. Possibly, Fritz had decided to end the production of Sake and concentrate only on beer, his first love. He might have attempted to sell off the Sake he had been aging prior to the Privy Council's decision. In June 1938, Fritz retired from Capilano.

Today, there are two Sake breweries in B.C., including the Artisan Sake Maker, owned by Masa Shiroki, which was founded in 2007 on Granville Island. The other is the YK3 Sake Producer, which was founded in 2013, taking over the the former Nipro Sake Brewery in Richmond. The legacy of Jinsaburo Oikawa, Koichiro Sanmiya, and Fritz Sick continues.

(The original version of this article was posted in May 2015, and has seen expansions/revisions over the years due to additional research. My research hasn't stopped so there will likely be additional expansions/revisions in the future.)

Pantry to Palate: An Acadian Cookbook With Rappie Pie

"The point of writing a cookbook is to get people to cook."
--Simon Thibault

Some cookbooks are simply fun to read while others provide intriguing recipes. They might also teach you about other cultures, broadening your knowledge and experience. In addition, you could appreciate the beauty of the photography, the exquisite and mouthwatering dishes that are visually displayed. And sometimes a cookbook touches you in a deeper way, striking you on an emotional level and creating a connection to your heart and soul. That recently happened to me.

I received a review copy of a new cookbook, which is due out today, called Pantry to Palate: Remembering and Rediscovering Acadian Food by Simon Thibault (Nimbus Publishing, $29.95), a trade paperback of 250 pages. Simon is a Halifax-based journalist and radio producer whose work focuses on food and this is his first book. The cookbook explores Simon's Acadian ancestry, presenting approximately 50 recipes, many derived through his own family.  

In the 17th century, the Acadians were the earliest European settlers of Canada, having come from France, and primarily settled in Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. Unfortunately, the English expelled most of them in the 18th century, with numerous Acadians relocating to Louisiana. In the forward to this cookbook, Naomi Duguid, a famed food writer and photographer, stated, "In it we learn about the tenacity of Acadian food traditions and the way they have evolved." You may not be familiar with Acadian cuisine and this cookbook would be an excellent introduction.

"It's hard to talk about food and not talk about family."
--Simon Thibault

The majority of the recipes in this book come from Simon's family notebooks, old, hand-written cookbooks. These cookbooks were written by the women in his family so Simon stated that the cookbook is "devoted to the collective and semi-collected works of women who cooked for and amidst generations of Acadians."

The cookbook is broken down into six sections, including:
--Preserves (from Pickled Beets to Mustard Pickles)
--Breads (from Johnny Cakes to Workhouse White Bread)
--Lard (info about lard and directions on rendering lard)
--Tête de Cochon (from Headcheese to Boudin)
--Soups, Sides & Staples (such as Fricot, Meat Pies; Rappie Pie/Rapure, Potato Pancakes, & Seafood Chowder a Mame)
--Desserts (such as Molasses Cake, Seaweed Pie, Baked Apple Pudding, Date Cake & Agnes Doughnuts)

The Desserts section is the largest of the six, followed by Soups, Sides & Staples. All of these sections include plenty of history, background and family information about the recipes, presenting a fascinating story about family, culture and food. The recipes range in complexity from simple to moderate, and nearly all of the ingredients are readily available. Throughout the book, you'll also find plenty of compelling photos, of food and more, by food photographer Noah Fecks. Some of the photos are even of the old notebooks that Simon used as a resource for the recipes.

"The foods brought out during celebrations are often the foods that tell us the most about ourselves, no matter our heritage."
--Simon Thibault

The Soups, Sides & Staples sections begins with an essay, Big Meals, Big Tables, discussing how Simon's family made Rappie Pie. Usually made and served in large pans, it was often for special occasions, especially considering the length of time it took to prepare and cook. It was a joint effort, with both the men and women taking on specific roles, the men engaged in the laborious task of removing the starch from the potatoes while the women were picking the chickens clean of meat. The men and women continued working together on the rest of the tasks, a true family project. And when the Rappie Pie is done, it was served with butter and molasses.

Later in this section, Simon provided some history about Rappie Pie, noting that there were many different ways to make it. In addition, due to the nature of the dish, recipes generally weren't written down, instead they were passed down from person to person, generation to generation. Simon provides one recipe which can serve as a template for your own Rappie Pie creation.

Simon even provides some local spin on Rappie Pie, mentioning Bernadette Lyle, who is from an Acadian village in Nova Scotia and now lives in Wakefield. She started an annual Rappie Pie dinner in Wakefield, which became an extremely popular. Simon also mentions the Facebook group, Rappie Pie Rules!, which posts pictures from many people who make Rappie Pie at home.

It is all of this information on Rappie Pie which especially touched me. My wife and her family are from Nova Scotia and they introduced me to Rappie Pie. In my prior post, Food & Family: In Memory of Frenchie, I wrote about Rappie Pie and my family, and Simon's description of his family making Rappie Pie is similar to the stories I heard about the Babin family. The Babin's didn't write down their Rappie Pie recipe, but passed it down from generation to generation, although now the recipe has been finally written down, to ensure it endures for future generations.

We continue to make Rappie Pie for special occasions, for get-togethers with the extended family, so that the tradition does not end. And sometimes we just make Rappie Pie for dinner, which is much easier and quicker now with the frozen, pre-grated potato blocks. To us, Rappie Pie is more than just food, but it also has a strong connection to our family. And that is why this cookbook resonates so much to me, a shared connection to Simon's experiences.

I give a strong recommendation to Pantry to Palate: Remembering and Rediscovering Acadian Food by Simon Thibault, which tells a great story, relates some delicious recipes, and has great photography. And for my readers, I am also running a giveaway for a FREE copy of this cookbook. All you have to do to enter is to add a comment here on my blog, or comment on my Facebook post about this review. Then, on Wednesday, November 15, at 11pm EST, I will randomly select one of the commenters to win a copy of this book. Good luck!

SENA17: Sea Urchin Master Class

"I've never been hurt by a sea creature, except for jellyfish and sea urchins."
--Peter Benchley, Author of Jaws and The Deep

Their gonads are a culinary delicacy, highly valued by many Japanese diners. You can find them available at a number of Japanese restaurants in the U.S. as well as some other high-end restaurants. I'm a fan and know plenty of others who enjoy them too. I'm referring to Sea Urchin, a spiny sea creature, and its "roe" which are actually gonads. You may know their gonads by their Japanese name, Uni. "Uni" doesn't mean "sea urchin" but specifically refers to their "gonads."

At the Seafood Expo North America (SENA), they offered a Master Class in Sea Urchin, presented by Chef Ned Bell of Ocean Wise, a sustainable seafood program, and Claire Li Loong of the Vancouver Aquarium Marine Science Centre. The presentation was sponsored by the Pacific Urchin Harvesters Association, an industry association established to examine fishery issues in the Red Sea Urchin in British Columbia.

Chef Ned Bell is the Ocean Wise Executive Chef at the Vancouver Aquarium, as well as a sustainable seafood ambassador. Bell founded Chefs for Oceans in 2014 to raise awareness about sustainable seafood. He has worked in a number of restaurants, including, most recently, the Four Seasons Hotel Vancouver and YEW seafood + bar. The Four Seasons was the first hotel in British Columbia to be 100% certified Ocean Wise. Bell’s cooking philosophy is "globally inspired and locally created" and he has a cookbook due out in the fall. He was a personable and passionate speaker, and I was fortunate to see him at another seminar at the Expo as well.

He began with some general remarks on sustainable seafood, noting we all should "choose responsible seafood." Like a growing number of chefs, Chef Bell seems to prefer to use the term "responsible" rather than "sustainable." A growing number of people feel that the term "sustainable" has been diluted over time and have chosen a different term which they feel is more appropriate. Chef Bell stated that we need to build relationships with responsible fishermen, supporting those who do the right thing. I fully agree and it is those relationships which help to build trust, and when assessing sustainability, trust is very important.

Polling the audience, only about 40% of them had tasted sea urchin before. It was cool to see a significant number of adventurous attendees who were curious about sea urchin and willing to sample it. As I've often said before, including in yesterday's post, we need to eat more species than the most common ones. Chef Bell noted that in North America, sea urchin is a relatively new delicacy, and most sea urchin is exported to Japan. The domestic market in Canada for sea urchin is still small, but growing. The discussion centered on the Red Sea Urchin from British Colombia.

The Red Sea Urchin ranges from Alaska down to Baja, California, though about 80% of these sea urchin are collected on the North Coast. Last year, 4000 metric tonnes were caught in British Colombia, by divers in remote areas. They dive to depths from 12-60 feet, and the sea urchins they harvest are often available within 24 hours. The Red Sea Urchin is the largest in the world, with a maximum diameter of about 18 centimeters and spines up to 7 centimeters long. It takes them about five years to reach maturity and they have millions of eggs per spawning event. The harvest season is from October to May.

Sea Urchin has a shelf life of 7-10 days. The firmer and more well defined sea urchin is better used in sushi while the softer variety is better used in soups and sauces. Chef Bell recommended that we should eat less common seafood, such as sea urchin, which is certainly an excellent idea to take pressure off some of the more popular types of fish. As Red Sea Urchin is very sustainable, it makes for a good option.

Claire then took over the discussion to talk about Ocean Wise, which recommends sustainable seafood by scientific assessment. This is akin to the Seafood Watch of the Monterey Bay Aquarium. These assessments are based on four main components: a) Heathy stock; b) Limited bycatch; c) Well managed; and d) Limited habitat damage. A numerical score is generated, ranging up to a maximum of 5, and a fishery needs at least a 2.8 to be considered sustainable.

The Red Sea Urchin has been assessed as sustainable by Ocean Wise. It has a healthy and abundant stock. Its main predator is the sea otter but there are not as many otters around so its population has grown. Harvesting sea urchin by individual divers means that there is almost no bycatch. That also means that is very limited habitat damage from those divers. The fishery is also well managed, with a quota system, minimum size limits, good enforcements, and even observers at the docks to help monitoring.

Locally, I know that Red's Best at the Boston Public Market sometimes sells Sea Urchins. You could buy some, take them home and prepare them yourself. Check out some Sea Urchin Recipes from the Pacific Urchin Harvesters Association. Or, the next time you dine out and see Sea Urchin on the menu, order it and enjoy its compelling flavors.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Cook, located in the heart of Newton, is featuring a parade of Mardi Gras specials inspired by New Orleans’ favorite feast.  On Tuesday, February 28th, from 4:30pm to close, the Newton restaurant is expanding its intimate neighborhood vibe to include the carnival’s vibrant energy.

Guests can indulge in small plates like Bourbon Honey Mustard Wings ($10), or feast on flavor-packed entrees like Drunken Mussels made with Andouille Sausage ($14), and a Cajun Shrimp Flatbread with a spicy garlic cream ($16). Sweeten the Mardi Gras meal with an order of house-made Beignets ($6). Toast the night with the Special Fat Tuesday cocktail with Bulleit Rye, Myers Dark Rum and grapefruit ($12).

Reservations recommended by calling (617) 964-2465.

2) Salty Pig Executive Chef Josh Turka along with the Salty Pig staff will bring back the popular “Red Sauce Sundays” promotion starting this week on Sunday, February 19, from 5pm-10pm. Guests will enjoy a taste of old school Italian with the sounds of Sinatra and Dean Martin on the sound system, red and white checkered tablecloths and chianti bottles on every table. Dishes start at $7 and go to $19.

Salty Pig Executive Chef Josh Turka has created a Red Sauce menu that will be available all night that includes starters like garlic knots and meatballs; pastas like fusilli al fredo and fettucine bolognaise; entrees like chicken parmesan and sausage and peppers; along with brick oven pizzas and build-your-own charcuterie boards.

WHEN: Sundays, Starting on February 19th through indefinitely

3) One of Boston’s most anticipated culinary occasions of the year, A Taste of Ginger, will be held on Monday, March 27, from 6:30pm-9:30pm, in the beautiful Art of the Americas Wing at the Museum of Fine Arts. Proceeds from A Taste of Ginger will benefit Joslin Diabetes Center’s Asian American Diabetes Initiative (AADI) which works to enhance the quality of life and health outcomes for the rising number of Asian Americans living with diabetes, and collaborates with Joslin as they work to find a cure.

Each year, hundreds of supporters and foodies gather to enjoy a lively evening, including the opportunity to meet and taste the cuisine of Boston’s most celebrated chefs such as Joanne Chang, Jasper White, Andy Husbands and Dave Becker amidst the beauty of the MFA.

Emceed by NBC Boston anchor and health reporter Kristy Lee, the event will honor David Wong, owner of Empire Garden Restaurant, for his outstanding commitment to Joslin’s AADI . Dr. Nandan Padukone, head of the Office of Commercialization and Ventures at Joslin Diabetes Center will co-chair the event alongside Hepzi Fonseca.

FOR TICKETS: Tickets are $250 per guest, and can be purchased online at: www.joslin.org/ginger

Joslin Diabetes Center is world-renowned for its deep expertise in diabetes treatment and research. A federally designated Diabetes Research Center, affiliated with Harvard Medical School, Joslin is dedicated to finding a cure for diabetes and ensuring that people with diabetes live long, healthy lives. We develop and disseminate innovative patient therapies and scientific discoveries throughout the world.

In response to the rising rates of diabetes in the Asian American population and the lack of culturally relevant research, clinical care, and education, Joslin Research Director George L. King, MD, and supporters of Joslin Diabetes Center, established the AADI in 2000. For over a decade, the AADI has made substantial advances to enhance to quality of life and health outcomes for Asian Americans living with diabetes through research, education, outreach and culturally appropriate treatments.

4) Poutine, a favorite French-Canadian dish originating in rural Canada, is composed of a trio of key ingredients: French fries and fresh cheese curds smothered in brown gravy. The growing popularity of this flavor-packed dish is certain to satisfy the most extreme of cravings. This winter, The Beehive is introducing a variety poutine dishes with a modern spin. For its late night menu, The Beehive’s innovative team decided to veer away from its familiar multicultural dishes to craft a selection of Canadian-inspired poutine recipes.

Executive chef, Gregory Torrech, proves he has no limits when it comes to perfecting Canadian cuisine by developing a menu composed of a variety of savory entrees inspired by traditional poutine. Included in Chef Torrech’s late night poutine menu is Classic Quebec Poutine “á la Beehive” with Beehive frites, cheese curds and roasted veal gravy ($13), BBQ Braised Beef Cheeks Poutine with caramelized onions and veal roasted gravy ($18), and Lobster Poutine with Cajun Etouffèe Gravy ($21).

The late-night menu is available Sunday through Wednesday, 10pm-11pm, and Thursday through Saturday, 11pm-1am.

5) On Monday, February 27, at 6:30pm, Legal Harborside will host a four-plus-course Bethel Heights Vineyard dinner with winemaker Ben Casteel. Founded in 1977 by twin brothers Ted and Terry Casteel, Bethel Heights is an Oregon winery in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA of the Willamette Valley. While initially only a vineyard, a winery was built with the first estate wines produced in 1984. The winery specializes in Pinot Noir and the family now makes more than 2,000 cases of estate Pinot Noir, and more than 1,000 cases of an estate Chardonnay.

The menu will be presented as follows:
HORS D’OEUVRES
Kumamoto Oyster, Frozen Citrus, Caviar
Salmon Belly Terrine
Corn Cake, Egg Custard
Lobster & Apple Hush Puppy
Bethel Heights Estate Pinot Blanc, Eola-Amity Hills, 2015
FIRST COURSE
Shrimp (polenta, wild mushrooms, green garlic chimichurri)
Bethel Heights Pinot Gris, Oregon, 2015
SECOND COURSE
Scallop Potage (turmeric, almond, carrot, honey pollen)
Bethel Heights Estate Chardonnay, Eola-Amity Hills, 2014
Bethel Heights “Casteel” Estate Chardonnay, Eola-Amity Hills, 2014
THIRD COURSE
Salmon (Parisian gnocchi, currant-hazelnut butter, charred frisée)
Bethel Heights “Aeolian” Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, 2013
Bethel Heights “Southeast Block” Estate Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, 2013
CHEESE COURSE
Livarot, Sbrinz & Tomme
Bethel Heights “Casteel” Estate Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, 2014

COST: $125 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservation required by calling 617-530-9397

6) Puritan & Co. Chef/Owner Will Gilson, Wine Director Peter Nelson, and the Puritan & Co. team invite guests to join them for upcoming Totally Fried Fizz Fest. Rumor has it sparkling wines are amongst the most diverse and versatile wines for food pairings and the wine nerds agree - both sweet and savory fried foods are a divine partner with all things bubbly.

Puritan & Co.’s Totally Fried Fizz Fest on Wednesday, March 22nd will offer an introduction to the diversity of styles and tastes of sparkling wines served alongside the tastiest fried foods. From funky reds to Grand Cru Grower Champagne, the industry-style tasting will allow guests to try dozens of wines from all over the world from various grape varietals exhibiting a full array of colors and flavors.

Tickets cost $65 and can be purchased for either a 5:30 p.m. or 8 p.m. entry time. Tickets are available on Eventbrite at https://www.eventbrite.com/e/totally-fried-fizz-fest-tickets-31569412964.

$5 from each ticket sale will be donated to Lovin Spoonfuls. Lovin' Spoonfuls is a 501c3, non-profit organization that is legitimizing local, immediate, and responsible food rescue.

This sounds like a fantastic event and I highly recommend you check it out!

7) Chef/Owners Carla & Christine Pallotta and the Nebo Cucina & Enoteca team invite guests to join them for late night grub on Saturday nights at the bar with a new, late-night menu at the bar featuring a selection of Nebo’s signature items.

Available on Saturdays from 11 p.m. to close, the menu includes:
Chicken Parmigiano ($12)
Meatball Parmigiano ($12)
Zucchini Lasagna “Bobby Flay Throwdown” winner ($12)
Puglia Spuckie with burrata, imported mortadella, tomato, saba, and EVOO on a ciabatta roll ($12)
Pugliese Pizza with burrata, traditional sauce, EVOO, and basil ($12)
Gino Pizza with spicy sausage, hot cherry peppers, traditional sauce, mozzarella ($12)
Christina Pizza with sweet sausage, bacon, sweet corn, and mozzarella ($12)
*pizzas can be made gluten-free for an additional $4

WHEN: Saturday evenings from 11 p.m. to close
For  reservations, please call (617) 723-6326

Nova Scotia Seafood Chowder Recipe

As New Year's Day approaches, my family has decided to partake of a seafood dinner, including Seafood Chowder. As my wife's family is from Nova Scotia, then it's only natural that their recipe comes from that province. For much of its history, Nova Scotia's fisheries were at the heart of its economy and you can still find plenty of delicious seafood there. Even Rappie Pie, which we now make with chicken and pork, was once sometimes made with clams.Every time I visit Nova Scotia, I'll enjoy tasty lobster, fish & chips, fried clams and more.

Let me provide you one version of a recipe for Nova Scotia Seafood Chowder. There are plenty of alternative versions out there, and you can feel free to make any alterations you wish.

Ingredients
2 cups of Lobster meat
1 pound of White Fish fillets
1 pound of Scallops
1 pound of Clams or Mussels (or a combination)
4 cups of peeled & diced Potatoes
1/2 cup of chopped Onions
1/4 cup of Butter
2 tablespoons of Flour
1 cup of Water
1 cup of Dry Sherry
4 cups of Heavy Cream
3 cups of Milk
1 teaspoon of Salt
1 pinch of Cayenne Pepper

The listed seafood is only a recommendation and you can feel feel to change the amounts, omit certain seafood or add other types. The basic idea is to use a variety of seafood, providing a diversity of flavors and textures.

Directions:
1. Cut all of the seafood, if necessary, into bite-sized pieces.
2. In a large sauce pan, saute the onions in butter until they are tender. Then stir in the flour and cook for about a minute.
3. Add the potatoes and then enough water until they are covered. Bring that to a boil and continue to cook the potatoes under they are tender.
4. Add the white fish and scallops and simmer for 5 minutes.
5. Add the lobster, mussels/clams, sherry, cream, milk and salt & pepper. Stir well and simmer about 10 minutes.

Makes about 12 servings.

Food & Family: In Memory of Frenchie

Last Monday, Camille "Frenchie" Babine, my father-in-law, passed away. and would have turned 96 years old in October. However, no matter how old you are when you pass, life is still too short.

For the last twelve years, Frenchie and Marjorie, his wife, have lived in my home and I've never once regretted opening my doors to them. Born in Nova Scotia, Frenchie was always quick with a smile, a man who enjoyed simple pleasures, from old time country music to puttering outside in the yard. He placed dozens (though it seemed like over 100) of bird houses in the back yard, and enjoyed sitting outside, with a beer or glass of wine, watching the birds settle in. And he was a true family man, with six children and numerous grand children and great-grand children.

Frenchie was well known in the family for making bread and rappie pie, both items which he had been making for much of his life. When making his homemade bread, he didn't use a recipe and never measured the ingredients. He hand-kneaded the dough, a strenuous process, and his bread was as good as found in any bakery. In recent years, he'd had some difficulty in the kneading, but had been teaching other family members how to make the bread, so that the tradition continued in the family. Even on his final day, he talked about making bread.  

Another family tradition, cherished by Frenchie, is rappie pie, a traditional Acadian dish. Though its origins are murky, it may have made its first appearance in Nova Scotia around 1755 when the Acadians were deported. There are a few legends though that it's creation may actually extend back to the 1500s. Frenchie ate and made rappie pie for most of his life, bringing the tradition from Nova Scotia to Massachusetts, sharing it with family and friends.

Rappie pie is a made from grated potatoes or in French, "patates râpées." The French word râper means "to grate." Thus, that became transformed into "rappie" pie. Once the potatoes are grated, most of the water is removed. This used to be done by squeezing the potatoes in a cheese cloth, a laborious process, so that it took two to three days to make rappie pie. Then, broth would be added along with meat, onions and pork fat to make a casserole type dish. There are a number of variations on this basic recipe, some people using different types of meats or even seafood like clams.

People may top their rappie pie with butter or molasses, and there is an old adage that the English use butter and the French molasses. Some people may top their rappie pie with other items, such as even ketchup, but that is much less common. It used to take Frenchie, and usually a couple family members, a couple days to make rappie pie, and the making was a festive occasion, often involving much drinking. Nowadays, it is easier and quicker to prepare as you can buy frozen packets of potatoes where the water has already been removed.

Frenchie's rappie pie was absolutely delicious, a special treat for all. Seven years ago, after I posted online a photo of his rappie pie, I was contacted by the Nova Scotia Department of Agriculture--Food Safety. They wanted to use my photo to assist in teaching their provincial food and meat inspectors in a food processing training course on regionally significant products produced in facilities they inspected. They told me that they hadn't seen such an appealing rappie pie in a very long time, a nice honor for Frenchie's hard work. Looking at the photo of the rappie pie above, would you be able to resist it?

As making rappie pie was a special occasion, it was decided to transform it into an annual family event, a time for everyone to gather together outside of the usual marriages, christenings and other formal family functions. In fact, we ended up holding these gatherings two to three times a year, inviting all of the family, from great-grand children to cousins, and many friends as well. They were informal occasions, with plenty of delicious food and drink (including plenty of wine). I have many great memories of these gatherings which were held in my backyard.

We were able to catch up with each other, to chat about what was new in our lives. We laughed and joked, smiled and sang, ate and drank. At times, Frenchie and other family members would break out their musical instruments, especially guitars, and play. They were joyous occasions, centered on rappie pie, and brought our family closer. We'v expanded these family gatherings and now even hold an annual Soup Day, where various family members make a soup to bring to the event, so that we can end up with maybe a dozen of more soups, stews, and chowders. And there is always homemade bread too.

During the last several years, Frenchie shared the secrets to creating rappie pie with other family members, ensuring that this family tradition would not fade away. No one may yet make a rappie pie as good as Frenchie, but that is a matter of time and experience. What is most important is that it is the locus of our family, an excuse for us to gather together. Though we may meet during more formal occasions, it isn't the same as an informal gathering for rappie pie. More people need to establish similar traditions, to strengthen familial bonds, allowing food to become a centerpiece that brings everyone together.

We will all miss Frenchie, though his memory and the traditions he began will live on. Our family gatherings will continue, with both rappie pie and homemade bread, and we'll always raise a glass in Frenchie's memory.

SENA14: Chefs For Seals

There are few images that tug at your heart like a snow white, newborn harp seal. Unless you have ice in your veins, you feel moved by the vulnerability of that simple creature, of the expressiveness in its eyes. You probably want to cuddle it, holding it close to your chest, part of some innate desire to protect the young and innocent. Fortunately, it is illegal to hunt those precious baby seals.

Unfortunately, it is usually legal to hunt those seals when they are only two to four weeks old, once the seal has molted its white fur.

While at the Seafood Expo North America, I met with an exhibitor at the New England Food Show, though the topic involved fisheries and marine creatures. It also touched on issues of sustainability, global trade, government subsidies, NGOs and more. It serves as an object lesson for other seafood issues too.  

The Humane Society of the U.S. (HSUS) was trying to garner support against the Canadian Seal Hunt, as well as promoting their Chefs For Seals program and the free Protect Seals App. I was pleased that they were very specific in the type of seal hunts that they opposed, and they even offered a potential solution to help the fishermen involved in the trade. I also feel that this issue presents an excellent opportunity for a collaboration between the fishermen and conservation groups, one would could end up satisfying both parties. It is such collaborations which seem to be showing great potential in the seafood industry.

Their opposition is not to all seal hunts in Canada. They differentiate between two basic seal hunts, one by the indigenous Inuit and the other by more commercial fishermen. The HSUS does not want to stop the Inuit hunts, and believe they have the right to perform this ancient, cultural practice. However, they do want to stop the commercial hunt, that which is usually engaged in around Newfoundland.

In 2013, nearly 90,000 seals were killed by these commercial fishermen but not a single pound of seal meat found it way to market. Instead, the seals were killed only for their skins, and the rest of their bodies were discarded. This was discovered through information from the Canadian Department of Fisheries and Oceans (DFO). HSUS is fervently opposed to this terribly wasteful practice, and they also do not believe that the economic benefits of the hunt are necessary. 

The DFO regulates the Canadian seal hunt, setting quotas, studying seal population, monitoring the hunt and more. Only 6000 seal licenses have been issued, though only about 850 of those people actually hunt. Each license costs only about $5, so it is not a large investment.  In recent years, the actual kills often have not reached the quota amounts, and it seems that the number of seals killed has decreased over the last five years, from 217,800 in 2008 down to 88,894 in 2013. Most of the hunting is done in late March and early April, so it should be starting soon, if it hasn't started already.

A significant reason for the decrease in seal kills is because the European Union banned the imports of seal products from Canada. In addition, there is only one local pelt buyer, NuTan Furs, and they would only purchase a smaller amount of pelts. Pelt prices have been decreasing. For example, in 2006, pelts were selling for about $97 but in 2013, the price had dropped to about $30. And many pelts are sitting unsold in a warehouse.

The average seal hunter earns less than 5% of their income from sealing, deriving 95% from commercial fishing. So for most of these sealers, it is not an economic necessity for them to hunt seals. And that portion of their income is continuing to decrease each year as markets for seal products dry up. That has led the government to provide subsidies to the industry, to help prop it up. Should they really be supporting what seems to be a dying industry? You would think the money would be better spent in another manner, while still protecting these fishermen.

HSUS believes that the solution is for the Canadian government to buyout the seal licenses, similar to what was once done with whaling licenses. A buyout would very likely be much cheaper than continuing to provide subsidies each year. There is no indication that the seal market is going to improve and it is much more likely that it will continue to decrease, earning sealers even less money per pelt. It seems like a logical response to this problem, however the government is unlikely to take the initiative. Instead, the sealers need to unite and push for a buyout. And I am sure conservation groups would fully support the sealers in this regard. Working together, the fishermen and the conservation groups could reach a satisfactory conclusion for all.

To place pressure on the Canadian government, Chefs For Seals, a boycott campaign has been launched. It is claimed that over 6500 restaurants and grocery stores, as well as over 800,000 individuals are currently participating in this boycott. HSUS has also recently launched the free Protect Seals App, which provides you a searchable list of the restaurants and grocery stores which have joined the boycott.

Each participant chooses their level of boycott, from all Canadian seafood to just seafood from Newfoundland, the center of the seal hunt. Some of the participants include Chefs such as Mario Batali, Cat Cora, and Scott Conant as well as stores from Whole Foods Market to Trader Joe's. Anthony Bourdain initially came out against the boycott though it appears his opposition was based on a failure to understand the actual HSUS position. For example, Bourdain failed to realize the HSUS did not oppose Iniuit seal hunting.

In my view, maybe more outreach from conservation groups to the sealers is needed, with the hopeful goal of trying to work together to resolve the matter, such as getting the fishermen to push for a buyout. Such a buyout may be the best solution. 

2014 Mohegan Sun WineFest: Favorite Wines & More

As the New Year begins, and winter embraces New England, it is the time for two major wine events, the Mohegan Sun WineFest and the Boston Wine Expo. This is an excellent opportunity to explore new wines, to taste new vintages, and find new favorites. I recently attended the Sun WineFest and will go to the Wine Expo later this month. Because of their proximity of distance and time, and the nature of the events, it is natural to draw some comparisons between the two events. In short, each has its own strengths and weaknesses, and which event you desire to attend is probably more a matter of preference.

As for venues, the Sun WineFest is the clear winner, hosting the event in a casino rather than Wine Expo, which is held in an exhibition hall in the Seaport District. Even if you don't gamble, there are plenty of other options at Mohegan Sun, from a swimming pool to shopping. I enjoy gambling, especially poker, and had fun playing some games during the Sun WineFest weekend. The Sun WineFest also runs over three days, with several different events, from a Bourbon Tasting to a Celebrity Chef Dine Around. However, they do not run wine and alcohol seminars like the Wine Expo, and would benefit more if they did.

The centerpiece of both wine expos is their Grand Tasting event, both which run on Saturday and Sunday. At the Sun WineFest, Grand Tasting tickets generally cost $80 on Saturday, $70 on Sunday and $125 for both days. These are less expensive than the Wine Expo which costs $95 for Saturday, $85 for Sunday and $145 for both days. The Sun WineFest Grand Tasting also has five hours for the public as compared to Boston's four hours. However, the Sun WineFest only provides one special hour for the media/trade while Boston provides two hours. I wish that the WineFest provided an extra hour for the media, giving us a bit more quiet time to check out, taste and review wines. Once the public arrives, it becomes far more difficult to check out the wines. The Grand Tasting event at both expos is the most crowded on Saturday so you might want to go on Sunday instead.

Both Grand Tastings have fun and interesting chef demonstrations during the course of the Grand Tastings. Attendance at these demos is free and you often get to sample food prepared by the celebrity judges. Both expos have food vendors though I feel the Sun WineFest has more, and diverse, food vendors where attendees can sample a variety of dishes, from lobster rolls to oysters, burgers to sushi. A portion of the proceeds from these food vendors goes to benefit the Channel 3 Kids Camp.

The Sun WineFest offers a smaller, and less diverse, wine selection than found at the Wine Expo. There were plenty of large, commercial brands there, from Yellow Tail to Barefoot, but you could find some intriguing selections if you looked carefully. For example, you could taste an $8 Yellow Tail Shiraz or a $100 French Rosé, if you took the time to carefully peruse all of the tables. I would have preferred more wine diversity at the Sun WineFest, to see better representation from some regions, such as Portugal, Greece and South Africa. I would also have preferred to see more small wineries represented. Prior years seemed to possess more diversity than this current year.

On the other hand, the Sun WineFest offers more than just wine for tasting. You can also find beer, cider and spirits, which the Wine Expo rarely offers. At the Sun WineFest, there are several separate rooms for their beer and cider samples. The spirits are offered in the same main hall as the wine tasting, except for a few producers which were located just outside the main hall. These additional beers, ciders and spirits add value to the Sun WineFest.

I now want to share some of my favorites from the Grand Tasting, mainly wine but with a bit of cider and whiskey too. Obviously, I did not taste every wine at the event so there could have been other worthy wines that I simply did not get the opportunity to sample. If you attended this event, and tasted some excellent wines that I have not mentioned, feel free to add your thoughts to the Comments.

Chateau d'Esclans, located in Provence, France, has a rich and vibrant history and was acquired by Sacha Lichine in 2006. The Chateau is well known for its Rosé wines, and four of those wines were available for sampling. I've tasted prior vintages of these wines and have been impressed so I had high expectations, which were well met.

Their entry level Rosé is the 2013 Whispering Angel ($20-$25), which was recently released. Bright red fruit, clean and crisp, this is a delicious and easy-drinking wine but it is not a simple one. This is the Provence style Rosé which I really enjoy. The 2012 Chateau D'Esclans Rosé ($30-$35) has more restrained red fruit flavors and greater complexity with some herbal elements. It brings elegance to your glass. The 2011 Les Clans ($75) is made from a blend of 50 and 80 year old Grenache and sees a touch of oak. The complexity continues to increase, and there is a subtle melange of intriguing flavors, including tropical fruit, dried fruit and herbal notes. Elegance, style and a fuller body. The 2011 Garrus ($100) is made from 100% 80-year old Grenache and sees about a year in new oak. This is an ethereal and complex Rosé, clearly a stunner. It nearly eludes description, something to experience rather than read about. The taste will linger long in your mouth, and it will haunt your memory for even longer.

Two years ago at the Sun WineFest, I met Jim Bernau, the founder of Willamette Valley Vinyards, an Oregon winery. You can read my prior review of their wines, and I made sure to stop at their table again to check on their latest vintages. The 2012 Pinot Gris ($17.99) was as good as the 2009, presenting more of a full bodied wine with creamier fruit flavors, nice apple and peach tastes. The 2011 Estate Pinot Noir ($30), which was just released, is my style of Pinot, with fresh cherry flavors, herbal aspects and an earthy streak. Well balanced, it is food friendly and complex, a serious wine to savor. And at this quality and price, it is also a good value.

Murphy Distributors offered some interesting Spanish wines, including one of my overall favorites of the event. The 2012 Bodegas La Val Albarino (about $15) was pleasant with citrus and lemon notes, plenty of acidity and even a little spritz. The 2012 Martinez LaCuesta Blanco (about $11) is barrel aged, made from 100% Viura. The aroma has nice floral elements and on the palate there is a nice balance of herbs, melon and apples. An easy drinking and good value wine.

One of my favorites of the entire event was the NV Vermut LaCuesta ($20), an impressive Spanish vermouth. Tempranillo is the base wine, and it presented with an intriguing herbal taste with only mild bitter elements and hints of sweetness. I tasted some of it on its own, as well as in a glass with ice, and in both instances, it was impressive. It is well balanced, and would be delicious on its own or in a cocktail. Highly recommended.

Wines from Arizona? As soon as I learned an Arizona winery would be at the WineFest, I knew that I had to stop at the table and check them out. Arizona Stronghold was founded in 2007 by Eric Glomski and Maynard Keenan (a musician and the frontman for the band Tool). They own 200 acres, and 120 of them are sustainably planted with a variety of grapes, from Mourvedre to Sangiovese. Their wines are generally priced $12-$22, so they are made to be more affordable for everyone.

I liked their red wines, including the 2012 Nachise ($22) a Rhone blend made up of 42% Syrah, 30% Petite Sirah, 18% Grenache, and 10% Mourvedre. It is aged in 95% neutral French oak and presents with plenty of lush red and black fruit flavors up front, with spicy notes on the finish. There is also a sprinkling of herbal hints, enhancing its complexity. A wine that can be enjoyed on its own or with food. My favorite of their wines though was the 2011 Mangus ($22), a Super Tuscan blend made up of 60% Sangiovese, 13% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petite Verdot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. It spent about 10 months in neutral French oak and the alluring aroma beckoned to me.On the palate, it was compelling, with lots of complexity, luscious red fruit, and dark spices. The tannins were restrained and it had a lengthy, satisfying finish. Highly recommended.

Moonlight Meadery made an appearance, offering samples of a number of their interesting meads. Check out my prior review of the Meadery. One of their highest end offerings is their Utopian Mead (about $50), which is aged in used Samuel Adams Utopia beer barrels. Each batch though has its differences. When I previously tasted some Utopian at the meadery, I appreciated its complexity and depth of flavor, but it reminded me too much of a beer and thus didn't appeal to my personal preferences. However, at the Sun WineFest, I tasted the Utopian Batch #7, a new release, which was aged for 3 years. I actually enjoyed this batch very much, savoring its intriguing melange of honey, dried fruits, and hints of cocoa. It beer taste was very slight, and didn't detract from my enjoyment. Well worth seeking out.

Winebow offered a few good Spanish wine selections. The 2008 Juve Y Camps Brut Natural Cava Gran Reserva ($18) is an excellent example of a Cava, a Spanish sparkling wine. Crisp and clean, with tiny bubbles, the palate presents delicious flavors of green apple, peach, honey and light toasty notes. Full bodied and complex, it is an very good value at this price. The 2012 Licia Albarino ($14-$15 )is another excellent value wine, showcasing the wonders of Albarino. This was probably the best Albarino I tasted at the event. The 2010 La Tremenda Monastrell ($16) was an easy drinking wine, with prominent fruit, black cherry and blueberry, and a subtle backbone of spice.

Jonathan Edwards Winery is a local winery, located in Connecticut and they produce both estate wines as well as other wines made from California grapes. I tasted their estate wines and enjoyed the 2012 Estate Pinot Gris ($23). I found it full bodied and crisp, with pleasant pear and melon flavors, enhanced by a floral component. I was most impressed though with their 2011 Estate Cabernet Franc ($25), which had an alluring aroma of red fruit without any hint of vegetal. On the palate, it was light and easy drinking, with delicious cherry and raspberry flavors, with some herbal notes, though not any green pepper. Mild tannins, nicely balanced, and with a pleasing finish, this wine would be enjoyable on its own or paired with food. Highly recommended.

David Milligan Selections presented another one of my top favorites, and best values, of the Sun WineFest. The 2012 Espirit de Sarrail Carcassonne Rouge ($10) is the first wine to be imported into the U.S. from the Cite de Carcassonne IGP, which was established in 1981. This region has about 25 producers, most working as a cooperative. Domaine Sarrail is the largest producer, with an estate of 250 acres. This wine is a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, and 20% Malbec and the aroma was compelling, such powerful fruit, and the palate lived up to the promise of the nose. Excellent red fruit flavors, a hint of spice, and some herbal notes. Far more complexity at this price point than many other wines. It is easy drinking but not overly simple. Highly recommended.

The 2012 Chateau Le Berriere Muscadet Sevre et Maine ($10-$12) was another excellent value. Crisp and clean, this wine presents delicious flavor of lemon, peach, floral elements, and a strong minerality. Bring on the oysters for this wine and enjoy!

Craft & Estate presented another one of the best values of the tasting. The NV Francois Montand Blanc de Blancs ($15) is a blend of Ugni Blanc, Colombard, and Chardonnay. This sparkling wine is from the Jura region and made by the méthode champenois. Great acidity, a clean taste, and delicious flavors of green apple, lemon, and hints of toast. At this price point, this wine is a clear winner, presenting an excellent taste.

Glenlivet Distillery showcased their 15 Year Old and Nadurra Single Malts, and I previously reviewed both of them. I retasted them and my thoughts about both haven't changed. If you enjoy whiskey, Glenlivet delivers.

The Chivas Regal Gold Signature is a blended Scotch whiskey, with a minimum age of 18 years though some of the whiskies are aged as much as 40 years. It is aged in old bourbon and sherry barrels. I enjoyed this smooth, easy drinking whiskey with a nice blend of spice, caramel, dried fruits and hint of maple syrup.

Aberlour A'bunadh combines two Gaelic words: Aberlour which means "mouth of the chattering burn" and A'bunadh which means "origin." Aberlour produces a line of single malt Scotch whiskies and the A'bunadh ($80) is a cask strength whiskey, at 60.4% ABV, that is aged in Oloroso casks. It is bottled only twice a year and I tasted Batch #46. It is made in a more traditional manner, and presented a compelling profile. It possessed a creamy mouth feel, with plenty of spice, dried fruit notes, caramel and a little sweetness. Lots of complexity, smooth and with a very lengthy finish.

Crispin Cider offered several of their products for sampling, except the one for which I was most excited. Their Original is crisp and clean, mostly dry and with tasty apple flavors. The more artisanal Honey Crisp, which is unfiltered, provides more complexity and a richer taste. The Saint, which uses Belgian trappist yeast and maple syrup has a fuller mouth feel, and just a hint of maple flavor complementing the apple flavors. I wanted to sample their Artisanal Reserve Cho-tokkyu, which is made with Sake yeast and organic rice syrup, but it was not available at the event. I'll have to seek it elsewhere.

The Sun WineFest gave further support to my belief that there are still compelling wines available under $15. Generally, those wines are European, including countries such as Spain and France. The WineFest also showed that good wine is made across the U.S., from Connecticut to Arizona. California, Washington and Oregon are not the only states that made excellent wine. Take the opportunity of these large wine expos to explore and discover the wonders of wine.

(Please be advised that I received a complimentary media pass, guest room, and food allowance for attending the Mohegan Sun WineFest.)