Rant: Eat More Lamb!

Why do so few American eat lamb?

For many Americans, they might only have lamb maybe once a year, during the Easter holiday. Still others won't eat lamb even on these holidays. Others might have lamb only at Greek restaurants, such as in a gyro, although I've been told multiple times by Greeks that lamb isn't a common meat in their country. 

Lamb consumption in the U.S. has seen a drastic decline over the years and that needs to change. More people need to eat lamb and there are multiple reasons why they should do so. Lamb is nutritious, delicious, versatile, and uses less resources than some other meats, such as beef.

Back in the early 1940s, there were about 56 million sheep and lambs in the U.S. but that number has dropped to just over 5 million, less than 10% of its previous count. In comparison, there are over 90 million cattle in the U.S.  Beef is far more popular than lamb and that is plain to see. Half of the lamb that is now consumed in the U.S. is imported, primarily from Australia and New Zealand.  

As for lamb consumption, the average American, during the early 1960s, ate annually about 4.5 pounds of lamb. By 1990, this amount had significantly declined to 1.6 pounds and by 2012, the amount had dropped down to less than one pound, and recent statistics indicate consumption is still less than 1 pound. In comparison, the average American annually consumes about 225 pounds of meat, including about 82 pounds of beef and 127 pounds of poultry.  

If we examine who is eating lamb, we also realize that certain ethnic groups, such as Greek, Middle Eastern, Hispanic, and Native Americans, consume far more lamb than others. Lamb consumption also occurs far more often on both the East and West coasts. In the middle of the country, there are plenty of people who never eat lmab. We can also see that lamb consumption, for many, is confined to certain holidays.

Lamb often seems to be a polarizing meat, one you either love or hate. The most common complaint I have heard about lamb is that it possesses a strong, gamey taste which many find off putting. Although some lamb does have a gamey flavor, much of it doesn't possess that nature or only to a very mild degree. It seems to me that much of the opposition to lamb is actually psychological, due to misconceptions about its actual nature. Maybe in the past, some lamb had a stronger, gamier taste, but that is largely changed. In addition, much depends on how the lamb is prepared. 

There are also sometimes complaints that lamb is too expensive and too difficult to cook. First, you can find less expensive cuts and preparations of lamb, such as ground lamb. Second, you don't need to eat a large portion of lamb, just as you don't really need to eat a large steak. Smaller cuts of meat are less expensive. As for cooking, it's a versatile meat, which can easily be prepared in a wide manner of dishes. It's not a difficult meat to cook, and that's a misconception which needs to be overthrown.

Consumers need to get over their fears of lamb and simply taste more lamb dishes. I'm sure, if they give it a chance, they will find they actually enjoy the taste of lamb. Besides its great taste, it is also a healthy meat. I've spoken often about the health benefits of Omega-3 fatty acids, and lamb possesses five times as many Omega-3s as does beef.  It's also a very good source of Protein, Vitamin B12, Niacin, Zinc and Selenium.

Break out of your prejudices against lamb. Embrace it, buy it, cook it, order it at restaurants, explore its versatility, and put it on your plate. It's a healthy and delicious choice. What are you waiting for?

"Hump" Day: Eating Camel Burgers

Today, Wednesday, is Hump Day, but over the past weekend, Saturday was my "Hump" Day, because I enjoyed camel burgers for dinner. 

Recently, after visiting Harvard Square, I stopped by Savenor's Butchery, at 92 Kirkland Street, Cambridge, an excellent butcher shop which first opened back in 1939. They carry an intriguing selection of exotic meats, and over the years I've sampled meats from yak to elk, lion to llama. During this visit, I found ground camel, and as I've never tasted it before, I had to buy it.  

Camel is consumed in various Middle-Eastern countries (those with desert regions) as well as Northern Africa. Historically, camel has been consumed for many centuries, including by the ancient Romans and Persians. Camel is available in the U.S. in some specialty butcher shops and through some online vendors.   

Ground camel looks very similar to beef, but it's leaner and has less cholesterol than beef, so it might be closer to bison. It's high in protein and iron content, so it's nutritious as well. You can generally prepare ground camel in any manner that you would use ground beef. Burgers, meatballs, tacos, meat sauce, etc. 

We decided to make camel burgers, and also to keep it as plain as possible, thus no cheese, onions, peppers, etc. I wanted to experience the taste of the camel, so chose to keep it simple, adding only a little spice blend.

I chose a Berbere Seasoning, which is commonly an Ethiopian spice blend. This Seasoning was made with cayenne pepper, garlic, ginger, fenugreek, cardamon, cumin, black pepper, allspice, turmeric, cloves, Ceylon cinnamon, and coriander. With a judicious amount of seasoning, it added a slightly spicy and flavorful touch to the camel burger.

The camel burger itself was mild and resembled a beef burger in texture and taste. If you didn't know it was camel, you probably would believe it was a beef burger. However, it's better for you than beef, as it's lower in fat and cholesterol. 

The ground camel illustrates the point that people should be more open to trying new foods, as it might seem to you to be strange and something you wouldn't enjoy, but the reality could be quite different. If you like beef or bison, then there's no reason why you wouldn't like camel too. Expand your palate and be more adventurous. Check out Savenor's and purchase some of their exotic meats. You may find a new favorite.

The Origins of Chicken Fried Steak

In the photo above, smothered beneath the white gravy, is a tender and delicious piece of Chicken Fried Steak, a dish which is most popular in the South and Mid-West. In general, the steak is from a lesser cut of beef, which has been tenderized, and then dredged in a batter of egg and flour. It's fried in a pan, like you would fry chicken, and then when it's plated, it's usually covered by a white gravy. These are generalizations, and plenty of exceptions exist.  

National Chicken Fried Steak Day is celebrated on October 26, a holiday which started in Texas, codified by a resolution in 2011. The Resolution states, in part: "WHEREAS, This signature dish occupies a special place in the culinary culture of the Lone Star State, and Texas Chicken Fried Steak Day provides a welcome opportunity to pay homage to that shared legacy;.." The holiday has grown from just a celebration in Texas to a celebration across the country. 

What are the origins of Chicken Fried Steak? Who invented it? 

First, I'll note that many people believe Chicken Fried Steak originated in Texas, inspired by German immigrants to Texas during the mid to late 19th century. These immigrants brought with them the dish of Wiener Schnitzel, a fried, breaded veal cutlet. One of the first printed references to Wiener Schnitzel was in a cookbook from 1831, and it began appearing in U.S. newspapers during the latter 1850s. It was thought that veal was expensive, so Texans replaced the veal with less expensive beef. However, as interesting as that theory may be, there's no documentary evidence to show it actually happened. And the printed evidence actually seems to cast strong doubt on this theory.

Second, around 1976, a story was reported that Chicken Fried Steak was invented in Texas by James Donald Perkins, a short order cook who had difficulty reading. He allegedly misread an order “chicken, fried steak” as “chicken fried steak.” Her wasn't sure what the order meant, but he took a piece of steak, rolled it in flour and milk, and then fried it. It became a popular dish but about a year later, James was fired and ended up dead in an alley six months later.  This story spread and was taken as the truth by many people. However, in 1991, it was determined that this story was a fraud.  

The true origins of chicken fried steak extend back to the early 19th century, to simple "fried steak." Over time, recipes for fried steak evolved, becoming what would later to called chicken fried steak. First though, some of the fried steak recipes would become known as "country fried steak," and this was before the use of the term "chicken fried steak." At one point in term, the three terms (fried steak, country fried steak, and chicken fried steak), all referred to the same dish. Thus, chicken fried steak existed before acquiring its name. 

Nowadays, country fried steak and chicken-fried steak are sometimes seen as synonyms, and other times to be somewhat different. Some feel country fried steak is just dredged in flour while chicken fried steak is dipped in an egg batter. Others believe the difference is that country fried steak is covered by a brown gravy while chicken fried steak is covered by a peppery, white gravy. However, historically those differences largely didn't exist as I'll examine in this article.  

So, let's delve into the history of Chicken Fried Steak!

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An ancestor of Chicken Fried Steak is definitely "Fried Steak," a dish which extends back at least to the 1820s, and ranged all across the country. It even existed in England at that time, often referred to there as "fried beef-steak." 

Maybe the first documented recipe for fried steak was in The Dollar Newspaper (PA), October 19, 1864, pictured above. As can be seen, it's simply a fried steak seasoned with salt and pepper, and covered by a brown gravy. The article continued, adding, “Cream Gravy is nice for any fried steak or young fowl, made precisely as directed for gravy for fried beefsteak, only substituting a half tea-cup of sweet cream for butter.”

Although many claim that lesser, and tougher, cuts of beef were used for fried steak (and later chicken fried steak) , that certainly wasn't always the case. Sometimes a fine tenderloin might be used. The Waterville Telegraph (KS), December 22, 1871, published an article on “Fried Beef Steak,” noting, “Take a nice fat tenderloin steak, sprinkle with a little pepper and salt, have your iron pan on the fire, and hot! In it two of three ounces of fresh butter, melted, of course, by the heart, in this place your steak and turn again and again. Cook quickly, brown on both sides with all the juices within, warm your meat dish, and serve the steak piping hot, pouring on the dish and over the meat the melted butter, rich with the encompassed juices of the steak.” I'll also note that the steak was only seasoned with salt and pepper. 

Not everyone was a fan of fried steaks, In Common Sense in the Household: A Manual of Practical Housewifery (1871) by Marion Harland, she stated, “Beef-Steak. It is not customary to fry beef-steaks for people who know what really good cookery is. To speak more plainly, a steak, killed by heat and swimming in grease, is a culinary solecism, both vulgar and indigestible.” Multiple newspaper articles during the 19th century, and into the 20th century, would also denigrate fried steaks.

A different recipe was provided in 1872, and this might actually be the first example of what would eventually be known as "chicken fried steak." In How To Cook (London, 1872) by T.L. Nichols, M.D., it stated, “Fried Steak.—A steak may first be dipped in flour, and well shaken; then, with a little fat or butter, fry it to a nice brown. Veal cutlets, mutton chops, poultry and game, may be done in the same manner.” The addition of the flour is what separates this recipe from the prior recipes for fried steak. Later recipes for country fried steak and chicken fried steak would basically be similar, just dredging the steak in flour before frying it.   

It's also fascinating that this recipe originated in London, England! Could this be the actual origin of chicken fried steak? It seems unlikely as most Americans would never have seen this cook book, and it wouldn't have been influential here. However, it wasn't long before the use of flour was noted in an American cook book.

For example, An Easy & Economical Book of Jewish Cookery Upon Strictly Orthodox Principles (1874) by Mrs. J. Atrutel, provided a recipe, “No. 48.—Fried Steak and Potatoes. Put a little fat in a pan. Season the steak with salt and pepper, and sprinkle a little flour over the steak. Fry it a nice brown colour.” This was 40 years before the first printed mention of "chicken fried steak." 

More hate for fried steak! The Daily National Republican (D.C.), November 13, 1876, ranted, “Your grandmother would have scorned a fried steak.” It continued, “Yet the American beefsteak, the national dish for breakfast, is generally fried. It is often of a pale, measly complexion. Its dry and hard surface is vainly irrigated with lukewarm grease, in which lumps of soft butter float---“ Finally, it advised, “Devote your energy to securing a juicy, broiled steak,…”

In contrast, there was another recipe, with a higher quality cut of beef, which wouldn't have been pale and mealy, or dry and hard. In Housekeeping in Old Virginia (1879) edited by Marion Cabell Tyree, it stated, “Fried Steak. Get from the butcher a tenderloin or porter-house steak. Do not wash it, but be careful to lay it on a clean block and beat it well, but not into holes, nor so as to look ragged. Sprinkle over pepper and salt, then dredge with flour on both sides.” The use of tenderloin or porterhouse for a fried steak may not have been the norm, but there were people making it from those choice cuts. 

Returning to more hate. The Lawrence Daily Journal (KS), February 15, 1880, stated, “We hear a great deal about that ‘abomination called fried steak.’ I will tell you how to make tough steak tender, and how to fry it so that it will be juicy.” The advice continued, “Do not pound it, either with a rolling pin or a potato-masher, or even with that jagged piece of metal or crockery ware which house-furnishing dealers will try to delude you into buying. If you do pound it you will only batter its fibres and let out all its juices.” Instead, the article recommended pouring into a dish a quantity of vinegar, salad oil, salt, pepper, chopped parsley (with optional chopped onion) and then laying the steak in the dish for 3-4 hours. That was supposed to make the steak tender.

The use of flour for fried steak was universal yet. For example, the Oswego Daily Republican (KS), November 15, 1881, published a recipe for fried steak and onions but no flour was used. It was also interesting to note that the Wilson County Citizen (KS), April 12, 1889, stated the term “Smothered Venus" referred to "fried steak and onions.”

The hate continued. The El Paso Herald (TX), December 12, 1899, in discussing Kansas, claimed, “Fried steak has no more nutriment than fried shavings, yet thousands of pounds are chucked into the sour stomachs of this town every month.” The Pacific Commercial Advertiser (HI), May 5, 1907, also mentioned, “Now, a fried steak is a culinary outrage, a gastronomic blasphemy. Frying oxidizes or tans rather than cooks. We see people every day eating steaks fried well done.”

Another recipe, with flour. The Erie Daily Times (PA), June 20, 1907, published the following, “Fried Steak. Use one round steak, cut one and one-half inches thick; salt, pepper, and roll thickly in flour. Fry slowly in plenty of butter and a little lard on back of range one hour.”  

The Chicago Daily News (IL), May 13, 1908, provided another recipe, “Fried Steak. Into two pounds of round or other cut, rub salt to taste and a light teaspoon of soda. Let it lie overnight for breakfast, then before frying rinse in two waters, dip in flour and fry in boiling fat until well done. Serve at once, either with or without gravy poured over it.” Fried steak was a very popular dish for breakfast. And this recipe also noted serving this dish with gravy. 

During the next few months, this recipe would also be published in a variety of other newspapers across the country, including in California, Colorado, Kansas, Nebraska, New Mexico, Oklahoma, Oregon, Rhode Island, and Wisconsin. I'll note that Texas wasn't included on this list.

Another recipe, for "French Fried Steak" first appeared in the Chicago Tribune (IL), December 27, 1908. “French Fried Steak. Take a nice cut of round steak one inch thick, cut in pieces any size desired; take a knife and cross bar it on both sides; salt, pepper and flour; fry to a nice brown, drain most all the fat out of your pan and put your meat back in the pan so it will not rest flat on the bottom. Then almost cover with boiling water, cover tight and let boil slowly until tender. Always replenish with boiling water, and when done have enough water on meat so you will have a nice brown gravy. You may add onions chopped fine if desired.” 

This recipe would also appear in a variety of other newspapers across the country, including in Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky, Louisiana, Maryland, Minnesota, Missouri, Nebraska, Oklahoma, and West Virginia. Once again, note that Texas wasn't included on this list. However, we do see that frying a steak, dredged in flour, was becoming very common across the country. 

The first appearance of the term "country fried steak" appears to have arrived in 1909, five years prior to the use of the term "chicken fried steak." The Tennessean (TN), May 1, 1909, published the above ad for the Royal Hotel and Saloon, noting they served “Country Fried Steak, with Coffee” for 15 cents. Unfortunately, the ad didn't provide a description of this dish.

The St. Louis Star and Times (MO), January 2, 1910, published an ad for Winter’s Southern Lunch Room, which offered “Country Fried Steak (Southern Style)." Again, it's unfortunate that no further description was provided of this dish.

The hate of fried steak continued! The Trenton Evening Times (NJ), May 6, 1911, reported that, “The good wives of Kansas are all agog over the bill that has been introduced into the Legislature making it unlawful to fry beefsteak, says a writer in Success Magazine. In support of his measure, the Kansas lawmaker maintains that fried steak is unhealthful, fruitful of domestic discord and a frequent cause for divorce. Whether it has anything to do with panics, bribery or sunspots this reformer does not state. Steak friers are up in arms against this threatened invasion of the kitchen. Healthy gentlemen who have lived long, useful lives on beefsteak burned hard and dry as shingles are pushed forward as unwilling exhibits.” 

This article was repeated in other newspapers in other parts of the country, but apparently the bill never went anywhere as I couldn't find any follow-up article about it. This was probably more of a publicity stunt rather than an actual desire to prohibit fried steak.  

In addition, the Lakeland Evening Telegram (FL), November 6, 1911, noted that, “The Ocala Star declares that fried steak breaks up more happy homes than booze." It seems rather curious that two different sources would allege domestic problems caused by fried steak.  

The Marion News-Tribune (IN), December 12, 1911, published an ad for Anderson’s Café, which offered “Country Fried Steak with Cream Gravy” for 15 cents. 

Another high-end cut for fried steak. The Farmers Mail & Breeze (KS), January 4, 1913, ran a recipe, submitted by one of their readers, for, “Fried Tenderloin Steak. A nice way to prepare tenderloin is to slice it about 2 inches thick, mash it thin with a wooden potato masher then dip in an egg well beaten, sprinkle on salt and pepper, dip in flour and fry brown in hot lard.” This recipe, which basically is chicken fried steak, appeared before the first documented reference of that term. It's also the first time a fried steak recipe called for dipping the steak in egg and flour.

The term "chicken fried steak" finally made its first known appearance in print in 1914. The Colorado Springs Gazette (C), June 11, 1914, published the above advertisement for the Phelps restaurant. It states, “Did You Ever Eat A Chicken Fried Steak? They are delicious.” This seems to indicate that chicken fried steak was something new, or at least that term was new. 

For unknown reasons, what was previously called "fried steak" or "country fried steak" was now being called "chicken fried steak" by some people. It was simply a change of name, as the basic recipe remained the same. Whoever was the first to coin the term "chicken fried steak" will probably remain unknown forever. It might have originated in Colorado, but then again, it could have originated in another state. Phelps didn't appear to make the claim to be the originator of that term. 

Phelps would publish a number of other advertisements, from June to September 1914, discussing their chicken fried steak. One stated, “Our chef’s best effort—Chicken Fried Steak. Delicious, appetizing, satisfying. Served every day.” Another ad noted, “A Summer Dainty. Chicken Fried Steak” while another one mentioned, “Chicken Fried Steak. A cooling summer food, at the coolest restaurant in the city.” And still another stated,  “Chicken Fried Steak—Cooling—Served at Phelps.” An August ad stated, “Chicken Fried Steak is delicious for lunch today" while a September ad said, “We serve Chicken Fried Steak every day in our cafeteria and dining room.” Almost all of these ads only mentioned Chicken Fried Steak, with a single ad also mentioning "Chocolate Marshmallow Cake."

The Beloit Daily Call (KS), August 4, 1914, published the following recipe, “Fried Round Steak. Take a good cut of round steak and pound it full of flour until no more can be pounded into it, then salt and pepper it; sear on both sides by placing it in a hot frying pan, cover with hot water and bake for 20 minutes in a hot oven.”

A number of restaurants in the Midwest then started advertising country fried steak or chicken fried steak. The Columbia Missourian (MO), February 10, 1915, ran a restaurant ad offering “Country Fried Steak, German Fried Potatoes, Creamy Gravy and Coffee” for 35 cents. The St. Joseph News-Press (MO), December 22, 1915, in a brief ad for Lee Broom’s restaurant, noted a Special of “Chicken fried steak, hot rolls, potatoes and coffee” for 20 cents. The Beloit Daily Call (KS), February 9, 1916, had an ad for Quinn’s Café, and one of their specials was “Chicken Fried Steaks.” The Kansas City Star (MO), June 10, 1916, ran an ad noting, “Dine and Dance at Heisen Follies. Chicken-fried Steaks a specialty.” The Parsons Daily Republican (KS), September 2, 1916, stated, “Eat chicken fried steak supper at Sly’s today.”

Chicken fried steak wasn't just for restaurants. The Fort Scott Daily Tribune (KS), January 23, 1917, ran an article about night school classes and mentioned that the cooking class would teach students how to prepare “chicken fried steak with cream gravy.” The dish had to have been popular enough that people wanted to learn how to prepare it at home. 

The Dodge City Daily Globe (KS), March 3, 1917, published an ad for the Big Popular Café, with a special Sunday dinner of Chicken Fried Sirloin Steak with a Cream Gravy. And the Des Moines Tribune (Iowa), October 30, 1917, had an ad for the Harris-Emery’s store with a cafeteria special of "Chicken Fried Steak with Fried Potatoes." The Carlsbad Current-Argus (NM), May 3, 1918, published an ad for the Crawford Café which served Chicken Fried Steak. The Democrat-Herald (OK), November 7, 1918, had an ad for the Newport Café offering a Thursday supper of Chicken Fried Steak and Cream Gravy for 35 cents.

The Press-Telegram (CA), August 13, 1919, posted the above advertisement for The Beacon, a "Drugless Drug Store." They offered “Chicken Fried Steak. A tender, juicy steak, dipped in flour, fried in butter, with delicious chicken flavored country gravy, fried potatoes, bread and butter, coffee, tea or milk” for only 50 cents. This was the first full description of chicken fried steak that we have seen, and it's basically the same as prior recipes for "fried steak" and "country fried steak." The steak was just dipped in flour, and a "flavored country gravy" covered the steak. So, it is clear that at this point, "chicken fried steak" was just a new name for an old dish. 

Death due to chicken fried steak! The Kansas City Journal (KS), October 23, 1919 and Kansas City Times (KS), October 23, 1919, reported on a killing which originated from an argument over the size of a chicken fried steak. On October 22, James R. Laughlin, aka “Awful Jim,” dined at the Ever Eat restaurant and had a dish of chicken fried steak. It was claimed that he acquired his nickname from the power of his right arm when he fought in the boxing arena about ten years ago. He was currently a watch repairer, but had a reputation, including with the police, as a "bad fighter."

The dish cost 30 cents and when James went to pay, he claimed that the steak had been too small and wasn't worth 30 cents. This led to an argument and scuffle with James Kanatanis (or Komantanis), a 23 year old Greek waiter.  At some point, four employees worked together to eject Laughlin from the restaurant. However, he returned, carrying a revolver. At some point, Kanatanis hit Laughlin in the head with a milk bottle, inflicting a deep cut, and Laughlin shot Kanatanis through the heart, possibly while he was trying to call the police. There were plenty of witnesses to the incident.

Earlier that year, Laughlin had run into other legal problems. The Kansas City Kansan (KS), February 11, 1919, reported that James R. Laughlin, had been arrested the previous night for breaking the jaw of Don Stout with one blow. They had been eating a "midnight lunch" at a restaurant and James alleged that Stout took up too much room at the counter and couldn’t resist hitting him. James stated, “No man can put his elbow in my potatoes without suffering for it.” Curiously, the article also claimed that Laughlin acquired his nickname, “Awful Jim," about 15 years ago while playing semi-pro baseball in Kansas City. He eventually pled guilty, was fined $25 and sentenced to five days in jail.

As to the shooting over the chicken fried steak, Laughlin was charged with murder and didn't go to trial until June 1920. Laughlin alleged self defense, and the trial ended in a hung jury. It was noted that Laughlin would be retried although it doesn't appear that ever came to fruition. The Kansas City Star (KS), April 7, 1922, then reported that Laughlin had died, although the cause of death wasn't provided.

The St. Louis Star and Times (MO), January 8, 1920, punished an ad for Remley’s, mentioning that Cafeteria Saturday offered “Country Fried Steak, genuine native steer, cut right from the choice porterhouse; tender as butter, sweet as a nut” for 25 cents. This is another example where the steak wasn't always a lesser cut. On the other had, The Daily Oklahoman (OK), April 4, 1920, ran an article about beef cuts, noting that flank steak can be used for “mock chicken-fried steak.”

An amusing aside. The Manhattan Republic (KS), April 15, 1920, briefly quipped, “The person who named chicken fried steak must have been a city chef who thinks that chickens are raised in cold storage houses.”

The Emporia Gazette (KS), October 15, 1920, ran the above advertisement for the Mit-Way Hotel, with a sample menu of their 50 cent lunch, which included “Chicken Fried Steak, Cream Gravy.”

The Tulsa Tribune (OK), March 31, 1921, had an ad, pictured above, for Newman Eats, which was “Open all night. Tables for ladies.” One of the menu options was “Chicken Fried Steak, Cream Gravy” for 30 cents.

In June 1921, the Maids’ and Matrons’ Cook Book: 600 Choice and Tested Recipes by the Women of the Christian Church (Colby, Kansas) was published, and it contained a recipe for Chicken Fried Steak. First, it called for round steak or sirloin (which certainly is not as lesser cut). Second, the steak was dipped in a batter of eggs and milk, and then dipped into cracker or bread crumbs. This recipe is similar to the recipe from 1913 from the Farmers Mail & Breeze (KS). However, this recipe also included the use of cracker or bread crumbs, the first use of such items in one of these recipes.  

The Sunday World-Herald (NE), August 14, 1921, had a brief ad for the Woodmen Cafeteria which offered Chicken Fried Steak for 50 cents. The Springfield Sunday Journal (IL), November 13, 1921, ran an ad for The New Windsor Café with a Special Sunday Dinner for 65 cents and one of the options was “Chicken Fried Steak with cream gravy.” The Arizona Republican (AZ), January 24, 1922, had an ad for The Whitton’s Confectionary & Café which offered a “Special Chicken Fried Steak, Country Gravy” for 35 cents. And the Arizona Republican (AZ), March 6, 1922, ran an ad for Graves’ Café and Confectionary with “Graves special chicken fried steak with country gravy” for 35 cents. 

The Fort-Wayne Journal-Gazette (IN), April 5, 1922, published an advertisement for the Dixie Waffle House which had “Chicken Fried Steak—Yankee Style” for 40 cents. There was no indication as to what was meant by “Yankee style.” The Columbia Evening Missourian (MO), July 17, 1922, ran an ad for McAllister’s Cafeteria which offered Chicken Fried Steak for 25 cents. The Tulsa Tribune (OK), December 20, 1922, printed an ad for Baker’s Elite Café with Chicken Fried Steak for 35 cents. And the Muskegon Chronicle (MI), December 26, 1922, had an ad for the Jefferson Cafeteria which served “Chicken Fried Steak, Potatoes” for 20 cents.

Then, the Riverside Daily Press (CA), September 21, 1923, published an ad for The Jersey Café. where one of the dinner options was Chicken Fried Steak. The Omaha Morning Bee (NE), November 3, 1923, ran an ad for the Burgess-Nash Company which noted, “Mezzanine Menu, 40 cents. Small Chicken Fried Steak, Lyonnaise Potatoes, Bread and Butter Fold, Ice Cream or Pie, Coffee.” The Los Angeles Examiner (CA), November 15, 1923, had an ad for Haggard’s Shop, with a dinner special of “Chicken Fried Steak with Country Gravy” for 50 cents. The Idaho Falls Daily Post (ID), December 6, 1923, ran an ad for the Rainbow Café whose Five O’Clock Specials included “Chicken Fried Steak, Country Gravy” for 45 cents. 

Chicken Fried Steak was becoming a popular dish across a significant portion of the country. 

Chicken fried steak even ended up being served in New York City! In 1924, there was a Circle Theater Souvenir Edition of the song, Alabama Rose by W.W. Trahern. Sophie Tucker had sung the song, and the lyrics and music were included in this brief volume. The volume also had numerous advertisements for New York City businesses. One of the advertisers was the Theater Café, which offered chicken fried steak and gravy. 

The Omaha Morning Bee (NE), June 23, 1924, published an ad for the Rome Cafeteria, offering Chicken Fried Steak with Potatoes for 30 cents. The Sentinel-Record (AR), July 1, 1924, had an ad for Paul’s Café and one of their menu options was Chicken Fried Steak with Country Gravy for 30 cents. The Indianapolis Times (IN), June 1, 1925, printed a review of the Black Cat Chile Parlor where you could order “chicken-fried steak, French fried potatoes, and cream gravy.” 

Another recipe. The Los Angeles Examiner (CA), June 6, 1925, had a Prudence Penny column, which offered its readers recipes, cooking suggestions and advice. The column noted that a previous reader had been given a recipe for chicken fried steak and now another recipe was offered. The writer had been provided this recipe by some friends, who noted it was made with a “round steak, pounded, dipped in milk and flour or egg and cracker crumbs, then fried in butter or grease, ..." The recipe continued, "Make the gravy out of the grease, adding flour and milk or water, then season with salt, pepper and Worcestershire sauce.” The writer finally stated, “I have cooked round steak in this manner many times, but never called it ‘chicken fried steak.”

The Grand Prairie Texan (TX), July 31, 1925, published an ad for the Sandwich Shoppe which offered a plate lunch special of Chicken Fried Steak, Mashed Potatoes, Blackeyed Peas, String Beans, and Sliced Tomatoes for 35 cents. The Abilene Daily Reporter (TX), August 27, 1926, ran an ad for Wilson restaurant, which stated, "Try our Chicken Fried Steak." 

These two references were the first printed mentions of Chicken Fried Steak in Texas, eleven years after the term's first documented mentions in Colorado in 1914. And we have seen all the other printed mentions of this term in a number of other states, including Arizona, California, Idaho, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Michigan, Missouri, Nebraska, New Mexico, New York, and Oklahoma. If Texas had been the birthplace of chicken fried steak, then we would have seen earlier mentions, rather than the first appearing eleven years later. 

The Laredo Daily Times (TX), January 28, 1927, presented an announcement and advertisement for the Robt. E. Lee Dining Room. The ad cheekily stated, “If Your Wife Can’t Cook, Don’t Divorce Her—Keep Her for a Pet, and Dine at the Robt. E. Lee Hotel.” Their menu included chicken fried steak and country gravy.

A Chicken Fried Steak Sandwich! The Bonham Daily Favorite (TX), January 19, 1928, ran an ad for the John Pierce Sandwich Shop which offered a Chicken Fried Steak Sandwich for 10 cents. This was the first mention of such a sandwich although it certainly wouldn't be the last. Other restaurants across the country would also begin offering such sandwiches.

Another recipe. The Los Angeles Evening Express (CA), April 30, 1928, provided the following recipe; “Chicken-fried steak is prepared as follows: Dredge round steak or sirloin tops with flour and sear quickly on both sides in hot fat in frying pan. When well browned sprinkle with salt and pepper, add a small amount of water, cover tightly and allow to steam until tender. It is well to put into the oven for the steaming, as it will require less attention. When the meat is tender it should be removed to a hot platter and thin brown gravy made of the drippings. This is poured over the steak, resembling smothered chicken.” As we see, the steak was only dredged in flour, similar to the prior recipes for "Fried Steak" and "Country Fried Steak."

The Houston Chronicle (TX), November 2, 1928, had an ad for the Rice Hotel Cafeteria and one of their 5 O’clock Specials was “Chicken Fried Steak, Roadhaus Style” for 50 cents. They had a similar ad on November 19 with “Chicken Fried Steak, Roadhouse Style, Candied Yams” and another ad in February 6, 1929 with “Chicken Fried Steak, Country Gravy, Asparagus Tips” for 46 cents. There was no explanation as to what was meant by "Roadhouse Style."

The Council Bluffs Nonpareil (IA), November 7, 1928, ran an ad for the Chieftain Coffee Shop whose lunch menu included Chicken Fried Steak with Corn Fritters. The Abilene Daily Reporter (TX), January 11, 1929, printed an ad for the Grace Coffee Shop with a Saturday special of “Chicken Fried Steak, Pan Gravy.”

In the Los Angeles Examiner (CA), February 9, 1929, the Prudence Penny column ran another recipe for Chicken Fried Steak, which stated: “Get round steak, pound it thoroughly with a potato masher to break the tough fibers, and then dip first in milk, then in four, or first in egg, then in cracker crumbs. Saute in the frying pan with butter or other fat, and make gravy out of the fat, thickening with flour, and adding milk or water. Then season with salt, pepper and Worcestershire sauce.”

There was another recipe in the Los Angeles Examiner (CA), March 1, 1929, in the Prudence Penny column. A reader, Mrs. J.S. Campbell, submitted her own recipe, “Have sirloin tips, or the upper half of a round steak cut ¾-inch thick. Lay on board and pound with blunt instrument, wooden potato masher is good. Roll in flour and sprinkle a handful on steak for good measure and pound some more. When steak has absorbed all the flour it will take, drop in a pan of hot drippings, or half butter and other fat. Brown well on one side. When the steak is turned, lower flame and fry or stream for fifteen minutes. If drippings are used, a piece of butter added after turning goes a long way to make meat tender. This is chicken fried steak, Louisiana style.” 

These two recipes were very different, one more of the original recipe, with just the use of flour, and the other the more evolved, with the use of milk, egg and cracker crumbs. Chicken fried steak had multiple meanings at this point.

The Indianapolis Times (IN), April 1, 1929, had an ad for Wheeler’s Lunch, with all week special of “Delicious Chicken Fried Steak, Pan Gravy, Stringless Beans and Tea Biscuits” for 30 cents. And the Illinois State Register (IL), May 9, 1929, ran an ad for Dewitt’s Café, offering, “Delicious Chicken Fried Steak and French Fries Potatoes” for 50 cents. 

Boys Scouts and chicken fried steak! The Abilene Morning Reporter-News (TX), July 28, 1929, reported on an upcoming Boy Scouts camp where the boys would, for dinner, enjoy “chicken fried steak with cream gravy, mashed potatoes, sliced pickles and onions, fruit pudding, iced tea.”

The Omaha World-Herald (NE), August 13, 1929, ran another ad for the Rome Cafeteria, with chicken fried steak for 30 cents.  

The San Antonio Express (TX), December 29, 1929, had an ad for The Gunter “Cave,” a new cafeteria in San Antonio, which offered Chicken Fried Steak for 30 cents.

The Household Searchlight Recipe Book (Kansas, 1931), compiled and edited by Ida Migliario, Harriet W. Allard, Zorada Z. Titus, and Irene Westbrook, had a brief recipe for Chicken Fried Steak, which only required being covered with flour, salt and pepper.  

The Las Vegas Evening Review (NV), May 8, 1931, had an ad for the Bull Pen Inn, which featured Chicken Fried Steak Dinners in their café. The Cincinnati Post (OH), March 17, 1932, ran an ad for the Coffee Shop, and one of their dinner entrées was Chicken Fried Steak with fresh mushroom sauce. The Times-Picayune (LA), April 20, 1932, had an ad for Maison Blanche which offered a shoppers’ special lunch of Chicken Fried Steak with Cream Gravy for 25 cents.

Cooking classes. The Trenton Sunday-Times (NJ), January 29, 1933, printed an article about courses offered at Oklahoma A.&M. College, including “Bachelor housekeeping,” the unofficial title of their most popular course. This course included lessons on “preparing chicken-fried steak.”

The Palm Beach Post (FL), April 21, 1934, published an ad for Meacham’s which had Chicken Fried Steak for 17 cents. The Albuquerque Tribune (NM), May 22, 1934, ran an ad for the Liberty Café which served “Chicken Fried Steak, Country Style, Potatoes, bread and butter” for 30 cents. And the Arkansas Gazette (AR), October 12, 1934, printed an ad for a Safeway food store. In the “Cooked Foods” section of the advertisement, they offered Chicken Fried Steak at 29 cents a pound.

Another sandwich. The Arkansas Gazette (AR), May 27, 1935, in an ad for the Food Palace, offered a Chicken Fried Steak Sandwich for 10 cents. 

Is chicken fried steak "cruel and unusual punishment?" The Boston Herald (MA), June 19, 1935, and other newspapers at this time, reported on a prisoner strike at the Kansas state prison. About 380 prisoners were demanding “better cooked food.” The article noted that their supper that evening was supposed to be “Chicken fried steak, country gravy, boiled potatoes, baked corn, garden vegetables, bread and iced tea.” The menu itself sounds good, but maybe it was prepared poorly, and that was the rationale behind the strike. 

The New Canaan Advertiser (CT), April 30, 1936, had an intriguing article titled “Chicken Fried Steak Is Truly California Dish” with a subtitle of “Kansas Small Town Folks and Son of Sunny Italy Collaborate To Excellent Dish” The restaurant, located in Los Angeles, California, was famous for a single "great dish," Chicken Fried Steak. It appears that the owners, Tillie and Mack, came from Kansas with the basic chicken fried steak recipe. One of their customers, an Italian man, dined there but wasn't happy with the dish. He felt it could be improved and he designed a garlic sauce for the dish, which Tillie and Mack decided to adopt. The altered recipe is pictured above, and you'll note that the steak is just covered in flour, and there weren't any eggs or crumbs added.  

The Los Angeles Examiner (CA), May 1, 1936, briefly stated, “We hear so much about chicken-fried steak, but now lamb chops have agreed to be treated in the same manner and here is how it is done.” A recipe was then provided for those lamb chops. Once again, the recipe only asked for flour as a coating for the chicken fried lamb chops and added a mushroom gravy. 

The New Orleans Item (LA), August 17, 1936, discussed the A.&G. Sandwich Stands, which have multiple locations, and offered Chicken-Fried Steak sandwiches for 15 cents. 

Another recipe. The Jersey Journal (NJ), August 27, 1936, presented a recipe for chicken fried steak, “Use steaks cut from the round, nor more than ½ inch thick, dredge in flour, season with salt and pepper. Fry quickly in hot shortening. Blend flour with far, add water, stirring to prevent lumps, season and pour over steak.” Again, simply flour was used. 

The Parish Cook Book (New York, 1937) by the Ladies’ Guild of Grace Episcopal Church, provided the above recipe. Interestingly, sirloin tips were one of the recommended cuts of beef. And once again, flour was the only coating, and a mushroom gravy was made for atop the steak. 

The Patteran Cook Book (1939) by the Woman’s Club of Whittier, CA, provided the above recipe, which called for a T-bone or sirloin steak. It too was only covered by flour, and also had a mushroom gravy. 

The Atlanta Journal (GA), January 5, 1939, provided another recipe for Chicken-Fried Steak, which called for the use of sirloin steak. The only covering was flour, but this recipe did not call for a gravy. 

The Evening Tribune (CA), June 1, 1939, printed an advertisement for Safeway which had a recipe for Chicken Fried Steak. The ingredients included 2 lbs. Round Steak cut thick, 1 tsp salt, ½ tsp pepper, ¾ cup flour, 2 cups milk, and 5 tbsps shortening. The directions stated, “Pound steak to half original thickness. Dip in seasoned flour; fry quickly in hot fat, turning twice. Remove steak to hot plate and thicken fat with flour. Stir until smooth, add milk to make gravy. Season, serve with steak. Serves 6.”

Chicken fried steak was even available in Alaska! The Daily Alaska Empire (AK), October 21, 1939, noted that The Baranof Hotel served Chicken Fried Steak with Country Gravy.

The Springfield Republican (MA), March 4, 1940, printed the above recipe for Chicken Fried Steak, and it also used only flour as a coating. 

A different coating for chicken fried steak. The Times-Picayune (LA), May 18, 1940, published the above recipe, where the steak was coated with more of a batter, using flour, salt, milk, egg and baking powder. This is more like the modern day chicken fried steak, but it took a number of years before this became the norm instead of merely a flour coating. 

The Morning Advocate (LA), December 22, 1940, also provided a recipe for Chicken Fried Steak, as well as a variation, “Spanish Steak.” It was made like chicken fried steak except you substituted 2 cups of canned tomatoes for water and cream. Plus, you arranged 5 green pepper rings atop steak when it was done.

The popularity of chicken fried steak! The Boston Traveler (MA), April 22, 1942, reported that experts from the National Restaurant Association, at an annual meeting, compiled a list of Americans' top 10 favorite dishes. The First Place dish was Ham & eggs, country style while Second Place went to Prime ribs of beef, au jus. Third Place was occupied by Chicken-fried steak & country gravy. 

And, for now, that's where we''ll end our examination of the origins of Chicken Fried Steak.

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Although the first documented reference to "chicken fried steak" appeared in 1914, it's clear from the first recipes for this dish that it was merely a new name for "country fried steak" (which first appeared in 1909) and "fried steak" (which first appeared in the 1820s). Initially, fried steak was only seasoned with salt and pepper, but in 1872, the first recipe using flour on the steak appeared. And it's fascinating that this recipe was in a cookbook published in London! These first recipes for fried steak were essentially the same as the first recipes for chicken fried steak. So, we can say that the first chicken fried steak recipes, just under a different name, extend back at least to 1872. 

Although many haters in the 19th and 20th century claimed fried steak was made from lesser cuts of beef, which often were tough and chewy, there were a significant number of recipes calling for more choice cuts, such as tenderloin, sirloin and porterhouse.  

In 1913, the first recipe, for Fried Tenderloin Steak, used more than just flour on the steak, dredging it in both egg and flour.  And in 1921, the first cookbook provided a recipe where the steak was dipped in a batter of eggs and milk, and then dipped into cracker or bread crumbs. However, during the late 1920s and the 1930s, most of the recipes, from fried steak, country fried steak, and chicken fried steak, only called for flour. It took time for the recipes to evolve, and start making it a norm to batter the steak, to resemble the chicken fried steak you now see at numerous restaurants. 

Where have you enjoyed Chicken Fried Steak? Does anyone make this dish at home?

Rant: My Heretical Opinion: Duck Wings > Chicken Wings

Happy National Chicken Wings Day! This food holiday began in 1977 and is dedicated to celebrating the chicken wing, in all its varieties. However, I'm going to offer a heretical opinion today. 

As a general rule: Duck Wings are much better than Chicken Wings.

Unfortunately, chicken wings get all the attention and they're available in many, many restaurants, most often as an appetizer. There are even numerous restaurants that specialize in chicken wings, offering them with a variety of sauces, as well as with or without bones. Chicken wings are a popular snack for watching sporting events, especially as they are easily made at home. 

However, how many restaurants do you know that serve duck wings? It's likely that you don't know any, or maybe just one or two.  I'm only aware of a handful in the local area that serve them, and most often just as specials. When was the last time you prepared duck wings at home? Again, most people have probably never done so. Duck wings just don't get the proper respect they deserve. There isn't even a National Duck Wings Day! 

Part of the reason for the ubiquity of chicken wings is likely that they are usually inexpensive. I've seen some restaurants and bars offer wings for as little as 25 cents each. In addition, about 9 billion chickens are killed annually for food, so there's plenty of available wings. Only about 31 million ducks are killed each year, roughly equivalent to 0.3% of the amount of chickens.

Chicken is generally a mild meat, and the sauce used on the wings is vitally important. Some might say that chicken wings are essentially a rather bland vehicle for the sauce. The most compelling, and tastiest part of the chicken wing might be its skin.

Duck wings on the other hand are abundant with flavor. The taste of the duck, with its crispy skin, rich flavors and bit of gaminess, are compelling. It is definitely not a mild or bland meat, and that is why they are better than chicken wings. Any sauce and seasonings on the duck wings is intended to complement the taste of the duck, and is not as important as it is with chicken wings.

Duck wings may have less meat than chicken wings, and might be a little tougher if not cooked properly, but neither of those is reason enough to choose chicken wings over duck wings. I would much rather have less meat, if it has more flavor, than an abundance of much less flavorful meat. I've eaten plenty of chicken wings over the years, but they rarely are especially memorable. I've eaten far less duck wings, only due to their lack of availability, but they are usually memorable.

I've enjoyed some of my favorite Duck Wings at A Tavola, in Winchester, which occasionally has Crispy Duck Confit Wings as a special appetizer. They are absolutely delicious, with crispy skin atop moist, tender and flavorful meat. 

It bears repeating: Duck Wings are much better than Chicken Wings.

George Clemmons: Hot Dogs & Murder Accusations

During the first few decades of the 20th century, Greek restaurants were commonly known for serving hot dogs. The Charlotte News (NC), March 6, 1913, mentioned that "hot dogs" were one of the "necessaries of a Greek restaurant." If you research the history of hot dogs in any region of the country, you're likely to find Greeks playing a part. I recently related the tale of Hot Dog Joe, a Greek immigrant who became a national celebrity because of his fight against a hot dog prohibition.

Now, I'm going to tell a darker tale, about a violent owner, a Greek immigrant, of a hot dog restaurant in Tennessee. There were accusations of murder, assault, and bootlegging. And in the end, he apparently vanished.

On October 3, 1920, G.H. Kirby, a structural steel worker, stopped at a hot dog restaurant owned by George Clemmons, a Greek immigrant. Clemmons refused to sell Kirby any sandwiches, and by the end of their confrontation, Kirby was shot twice. Kirby eventually succumbed to his injuries and Clemmons was charged with murder.

Before discussing the resolution of the murder charge, let's first go back about 27 years, to the summer of 1893, when Clemmons was much younger and working as a fruit vendor. The first newspaper apparently mentioning Clemmons was the Nashville Banner, July 14, 1893. On the evening of July 11, Nicholas Gamblis (also referred to in other sources as John Gambales), was shot and killed. George Clemmons was arrested and charged with his murder. Gamblis, a Greek immigrant, was also a fruit vendor. 

The Nashville Banner, July 18, 1893, reported that a preliminary trial had been held that morning. A number of witnesses testified for the prosecution, including Officer Terry who observed Clemmons running down the street, carrying a pistol. Clemmons stated to him, "I will kill you" although he was arrested with violence. Joe Andrews, a bar-keeper, stated that Nicholas entered his saloon, seeking a cigar. Clemmons came in shortly thereafter and grabbed Nick. They argued, scuffled and Clemmons shot Nicholas. They apparently both went outside, where Nicholas was shot a second time. The defense didn’t present any witnesses and Clemmons was remanded to jail without bond.

The Tennessean, September 24, 1893, then mentioned that Clemmons had been indicted by the grand jury for the murder of Nick Gemelis. However, the Nashville Banner, November 6, 1893, added that Clemmons had been indicted once again by the grand jury because it was thought that the old indictment might have been defective as name of the victim was wrong. A trial was scheduled for December 10, but would be put off until March 12, 1894.

On the first day of the trial, the Tennessean, March 13, 1894, reported that about an hour before the shooting, Clemmons was in the saloon, drinking and flourishing his pistol, claiming he was going to kill a man who was lying about him. However, Clemmons didn't mention that man's name. The murder weapon was a .45 Colt revolver.  

The Tennessean, March 14, 1894, reported on the second day of the trial, noting that the trial wa nearly over. Clemmons testified in his defense, through an interpreter, as Clemmons only spoke a little English. He stated that he had known Nick for about 4-5 months. It was also noted that Nick weighed about 200 pounds while Clemmons only weighed about 143. Clemmons also stated there were financial troubles between he and Nick’s brother. Nick interfered in this matter and allegedly threatened Clemmons a few previous times. At the saloon,  Nick pulled a knife so Clemmons show him in self defense.  

For the third day of the trial, the Tennessean, March 15, 1894, reported that Clemmons had previously sought peace warrants against Nick as Clemmons feared he might be killed.

The verdict was announced! The Journal & Tribune, March 16, 1894, stated that Clemmons was found guilty of murder in the first degree, the jury having deliberated for only an hour. The article provided more description of the underlying matter. It was claimed that George Vlahake owed Clemmons a small amount of money and Clemmons sued, receiving a judgment. However, Nick was able to stay the execution, which angered Clemmons. Both Clemmons and Nickwere said to be “well-to-do, having accumulated considerable money.” It was also claimed that Clemmons and Nick had quarreled over the location of a fruit stand. Clemmons appealed the conviction.

However, about six months later, the Nashville Banner, September 22, 1894, reported that Clemmons decided to drop his motion for a new trial. He was thus sentenced to 10 years at hard labor.

Clemmons' sentence was cut short and he was released. The Nashville Banner, January 20, 1897, noted that the Governor had pardoned him, partially because Clemmons couldn't speak English well and thus was unable to make a full defense. Plus, the Governor felt this might have actually been a case of self defense. 

His legal issues though didn't end there. The Nashville Banner, September 6, 1898, reported that Clemmons, who was still a Greek fruit dealer, had been charged with carrying and shooting a pistol within city limits. He had gotten drunk, took a horse and buggy for a ride, and fired his pistol several times on route.

A few years then passed without apparent incident, until December 1901. The Tennessean, December 31, 1901, noted that Clemmons, who will still a fruit vendor, had drawn a knife in an altercation with Nick Vradis, another Greek. Clemmons was arrested even though no serious injuries resulted.

The Tennessean, February 15, 1902, reported that Clemmons, who now owned a restaurant, which may have been the first time he started selling hot dogs, had been acquitted on a charge of assaulting W. T. Auten with intent to commit murder. Auten had claimed that Clemmons attacked him with brass knuckles but Clemmons denied using any weapon.  Clemmomns stated that he had just attempted to ejected Auten from his restaurant.

Over two years later, the Commercial Appeal, August 18, 1904, reported on the intense rivalry of two Greek restaurant owners with places almost immediately adjoining each other. Clemmons owned two restaurants on Main Street, and his rival, James Seros, owned a restaurant next to one of Clemmons' spots. Jim Pappas, the head cook at Seros' restaurant, and some of his friends dined at one of the restaurants owned by Clemmons. 

Clemmons though demanded that they leave and Pappas was apparently too slow for Clemmons. He grabbed hold of Pappas who then allegedly stuck him. Clemmons grabbed a knife and slashed Pappas on his side and left hand, but neither of the cuts were serious. Both men were arrested, and Clemmons was charged with “malicious cutting” while Pappas was charged with assault and battery.

The Commercial Appeal, November 11, 1904, then stated, “George Clemmons, a Greek who has figured in several bloody scrapes since his advent into the State, was arrested again yesterday on the charge of assault with a knife.” Clemmons would eventually be found guilty of assault & battery and fined $50, a conviction that was confirmed by the Supreme Court.

Five years later, Clemmons got into legal trouble once again. The Commercial Appeal, October 17, 1909, noted that Clemmons had been charge with drunkenness, carrying concealed weapons and assault & battery. Clemmons and John Theres, both drunk, were arrested and then jailed, While they were in a cell together, Clemmons beat up Theres, and an officer found Theres “lying on the floor in a pool of blood.”

Then, the Commercial Appeal, February 1, 1910, reported that Clemmons had been arrested two days ago on charge of attempting murder, having tried to use a knife on Klaudius Meanos. However, based on other newspaper articles, the name of the victim in this article was likely wrong, or an alias of John Calmatos.

The Nashville Banner, March 2, 1910, mentioned that after Clemmons had been arrested for assaulting John Calmatos, 32 Greeks in the community filed a petition with the court to protect them from attacks by Clemmons. “Clemmons has a notorious reputation for fighting and dozens of his countryment have at various times fallen victims to his ungovernable temper.” However, it doesn't appear that any action was taken by the court on this petition. 

A conviction! The Commercial Appeal, April 30, 1910, reported that Clemmons was convicted in the Calmatos case and sentenced to 11 months and 29 days in the county workhouse. It was claimed that the incident had originated when a black man had allegedly killed a Greek in a local street market. Clemmons then stopped at a Greek restaurant and berated the Greeks there for not seeking revenge. At some point, Clemmons then attacked Calmatos with a knife. It appears Clemmons may have done his time, as he isn't mentioned in the newspapers for almost eight years. 

Of course violence and legal troubles continued to follow Clemmons. The Chattanooga Daily Times, January 3, 1918, reported that Clemmons, a merchant at the lower end of Market Street, had an altercation with William Helmich, age 62, who was also a merchant. Clemmons was drunk and attacked Helmich, who threw him down on the pavement to avoid being shot by one of Clemmons two guns. 

************

We now return to October 3, 1920 and the killing of G.H. Kirby. 

The Journal & Tribune, October 4, 1920, noted that Clemmons, who owned a chain of small restaurants, had been charged with the murder of G.H. Kirby. Before Kirby died of his gunshot wounds, he told the police that the shooting was due to ill feeling caused by previous trouble with Clemmons, when Kirby had interfered in a free for all fight in one of Clemmons’ restaurants. Later sources would state the killing took place at a ‘hot-dog’ restaurant on lower Market Street which Clemmons owned.

The Chattanooga Daily Times (TN), October 4, 1920, reported additional details. About 3 months ago, Bill Wells and Jim Pace were in a fight with Clemmons in one of his restaurants. Kirby tried to stop the fight, which angered Clemmons. Then, on October 3, Kirby stopped by Clemmon's hot dog restaurant, but they wouldn't sell him anything. At some point, Clemmons then shot Kirby, once in the left lung and once in the stomach. 

Interestingly, when Clemmons had previously been convicted of bootlegging, and went to jail, Kirby had managed his restaurant for him, so they had been friends of a sort at one point. However, Clemmons alleged that while he was in jail, Kirby kept some money that belonged to him, and that angered him.

A whiskey violation! The Chattanooga Daily Times (TN), October 8, 1920, noted that at a preliminary trial yesterday, Clemmons was bound over to criminal court under a $5000 bond. Judge Fleming stated that he believed this was likely a case of voluntary manslaughter. When the police searched his hot dog restaurant, they found whiskey being stored there, and additional charges were then lodged against Clemmons. This would later prove to be an even greater problem than the order charge. 

The trial didn't begin until January 21, 1921. The Chattanooga Daily Times (TN), January 21, 1921, reported that Kirby, a mechanic, had come into the restaurant seeking some sandwiches. “According to Clemmons, Kirby cursed him and threatened to have him put in jail upon his refusal to sell him some sandwiches. Clemmons claims that he ordered Kirby to leave his stand three different times and each time the latter refused to go, insisting that his money was ‘as good as any one’s.’ After the third warning, Kirby, so Clemmons charges, reached for a butcher knife, and as he did so he got his pistol from underneath the counter and shot him twice, he stated, both entering the stomach.” 

George Bogel, a 12 year old boy, was at the “wiener stand” when Kirby came in and testified that Kirby wanted sandwiches but Clemmons refused. He also testified that Kirby said Clemmons would be put in the federal penitentiary if he didn’t sell the sandwiches. George saw Clemmons shoot Kirby but didn't see Kirby reach for a knife. As George was looking through the door, he didn't have a great view. 

And the next day, Clemmons was acquitted of the murder of Kirby!  

However, the Chattanooga Daily Times, January 25, 1921, noted that Clemmons pled guilty to two charges of selling liquor and the judge reserved sentencing. These charges came from the police investigation of his hot dog restaurant after the Kirby killing. 

Then, the Chattanooga Daily Times, July 16, 1921, reported that Clemmons, a Greek “hot dog” vendor, had been involved in a free for all drunken fight last week. It was thought that no charges would result for this incident, but it did resurrect the old case of his illegal sales of whiskey. No sentence had been handed down, provided Clemmons was on good behavior. However, this arrest could be considered a violation so that Clemmons might be then sentenced to a workhouse. Acquitted of a murder charge, he now couldn't defeat the two liquor violations of which he previously pled guilty.

Clemmons must have feared returning to the work house. The Chattanooga Daily Times, August 20, 1921, noted Clemmons “has been for a long time listed as an undesirable citizen by the city police department and the sheriff’s office” Clemmons sold his restaurants and left the city before being sentenced for the liquor violations, and he apparently never returned. It's unknown where he relocated, and the police had no incentive to seek him out. I've been unable to locate any other newspaper references as to his ultimate fate. 

It seems probable that Clemmons continued getting into trouble elsewhere as he had over 25 years of violence and murder accusations. Maybe he changed his name when he moved. He may have also tried to open another hot dog restaurant elsewhere, as he knew that business well. He might have also come to a violent end, if an altercation occurred and he ended up being the one shot. 

George Clemmons should have devoted all his attention to hot dogs rather than constantly getting involved in fights with other people.

Hot Dog Joe: From Simple Hot Dog Vendor to National Celebrity

"Hot Dog Joe." A Greek immigrant, known for his black fedora, who became a hot dog vendor. In 1927, the village of Scarsdale, New York, attempted to prohibit Joe from selling his hot dogs but he fought back, and became a national celebrity, bringing massive publicity to the hot dog. This is the tale of this Hot Dog Champion! 

Hot Dog Joe's birth name was variously described in numerous newspapers. His first name might have been Casta, Castas, or Castis, while his surname was variously noted to be Kitakakides, Hitakakides, Hitalikides, Hitalakides, Hitaliaides, Hetelikedes, and Hetelekis. To add to the confusion, Joe also used the name "Gus George," although mainly when he was arrested by the police.

Around 1920, when he was about 24 years old, Joe began operating a hot dog truck in Scarsdale, in the Westchester County of New York, commonly parking near the high school. About this time, Scarsdale had a population of maybe 5,000, and by 1930, the population would reach close to 10,000. For about seven years, it seems that Joe operated his hot dog truck without any significant incident. If everything had continued in that manner, Joe might have been forgotten, just another nameless hot dog vendor of the period. 

However, in July 1927, everything changed. According to The Buffalo Times, July 13, 1927, “The boys of Scarsdale will bite no more ‘weenies,’ will stuff themselves no longer with peanuts, and never again will top off these in-between meals with cooling drunks of lemon soda. The Village Board passed an ordinance, without a dissenting vote, banning forever from their village hot dog stands, peanut vendors and kindred purveyors of digestive dynamite to the splendid youth of Scarsdale.” Hot Dog Joe was now banned!

The Press and Sun-Bulletin, July 14, 1927, noted that Mrs. Ruth Johnson, the only woman trustee on the Village Board, had spearheaded the ban. Part of the reasoning behind the ban was that hot dogs were considered detrimental to the health of children. Clinton Leonard, the head of the physical training department of the high school, claimed that “the consumption of hot dogs, peanuts and soft drinks as his athletes left the field demoralized his training efforts.” 

Days later, there was already pushback against the prohibition. The Buffalo Courier Express, July 17, 1927, mentioned that “bootleg frankfurters” were already being transported into Scarsdale from White Plains. It didn't appear that mere possession of a hot dog violated the new ordinance. 

This was supported by an article in the Mount Vernon Argus, July 18, 1927. The article noted that the new ordinance might be discriminatory as it didn't include items such as apples, ice cream cones and roast chestnuts. It also mentioned that hot dogs could still be sold at delicatessen shops. Finally, the article stated that hot dog consumption was not a crime, so you could buy hot dogs outside of Scarsdale and consume them within the town.

Hot Dog Joe was also prepared to battle against this new prohibition. The Yonkers Statesman, July 19, 1927, noted that he had retained Attorney Stephen R.J. Roach to seek an injunction against the new ordinance. Joe, a veteran of World War I and who couldn't read or write English, could have easily moved his hot dog truck to other towns, but he chose to stay and fight. For seven years, he had been in Scarsdale, and wasn't going to let himself be pushed out. 

The Herald Statesman, July 20, 1927 (Wednesday), stated that yesterday, Joe had parked his hot dog truck outside the high school once again, defying the police to arrest him. Based on advice from his attorney, they wanted to test the validity of the ordinance by having Joe arrested. However, no arrest came because technically the ordinance needed to be posted for 10 days before it legally came into effect. Thus, nothing could happen until at least Monday, July 25.

Although there had been other hot dog vendors in Scarsdale, Joe was the only one to step forward to fight the ordinance. Surprisingly, Joe quickly received significant support, legally and financially, from Adolf Gobel, Inc. of Brooklyn, which supplied Joe's hot dogs. It's amazing that such a large corporation, which made over $8 Million in sales in 1927, would jump in so quickly to support a small hot dog vendor in a small town. 

Why was this matter so important to Adolf Gobel, Inc.? Were they worried that such prohibitions might spread across New York and wanted to squash it at the start? How did they learn so quickly about this matter, as they seemingly knew about this matter within a week? Did Joe's attorney, Stephen Roach, have a connection to Adolf Gobel, Inc.?   

The Herald Statesman, July 25, 1927, reported that Attorney Roach claimed that Adolf Gobel, Inc. was prepared to hire Clarence Darrow, Samuel Untermyer, or Charles Evans Hughes (all very prominent attorneys at the time), if needed to fight the ordinance. Joe was still selling hot dogs. “His clattering truck with its brazen coat of many colors passed down the tranquil streets of the village, veering toward any groups of adolescents that appeared in his line of vision.” Joe also told the newspaper, “Always my hot dogs they are clean and good. Nobody gets sick from Joe’s good hot dogs. The Health Department gives me a permit to sell my good hot dogs because they are what you call sanitary dogs.” 

It was now noted that the ordinance would go into effect on July 26, but that didn't occur either. The Village Board decided to meet that evening to discuss the matter, and no action would be taken until after that meeting.  

The Herald Statesman, July 26, 1927, noted that many residents of Scarsdale, who had first supported the prohibition, had started to waver, due to all the negative press. One man was quoted, “There’s nothing really vicious about a hot dog. It’s all right for a man, or even a boy, to have a hot dog now and then in the privacy of his home, if he knows when to stop. But the public hot dog stand ought to go.” It was also mentioned that the police hadn't shown any desire to arrest Joe, and might have even eaten his hot dogs before. 

Attorney Roach supported by Morton Lexow, the district attorney of Rockland county and also an attorney for Adolf Gobel, Inc., confronted Mayor Warren Cunningham about the ordinance. The mayor backpedaled, claiming that the nutritive value of hot dogs was not the issue, but that the ordinance was passed as a traffic measure. Joe’s hot dog stand was mounted on an automobile chassis and usually parked in front of the high school.

The Daily News, July 28, 1927, reported that Joe was finally handed a summons by the police at his hot dog truck, and the police were booed by the large crowd around the truck. And the Mount Vernon Argus, July 28, 1927, then reported that, on advice of counsel, Joe failed to appear that morning before Police Justice Charles M. Carter to answer the summons. Subsequently, the judge issued a warrant for Joe’s arrest, to be served that afternoon at 2pm in front of the high school. After his arrest, Joe would have to spend about 3 hours in jail until his arraignment at 5pm. Curiously, more detail was provided on the specifics of the Scarsdale ordinance, which made it illegal for vendors to park within 1000 feet of the high school.

A lengthy article concerning the matter appeared in the Times Union, July 29, 1927. Joe had been arrested yesterday, but was quickly released on a writ of habeas corpus. It was stated that Joe had been selling hot dogs since 1914 in Scarsdale, although a number of other newspapers noted he had only been selling hot dogs for seven years. The 1914 date appears to be an error, as Joe only arrived in the U.S. in 1919. 

Numerous individuals stepped forward, promoting the benefits of the consumption of hot dogs. “The daintily seasoned frankfurter is as harmless as a well cooked lamb chop, declared one doctor.” It continued, “Physicians are almost unanimous in endorsing the meat product and say that properly cooked and properly eaten, it can do no harm to a sophisticated digestive system.” In addition, “In the opinion of these physicians, …the prohibition on his wares and trade is unjustified and was made without first examining the food contents of this popular roadside delicacy.” And, “The frankfurter, if eaten judiciously, would put the doctor out of business,’ one physician, nameless here, declared.” 

The article also quoted a notable doctor, “Dr. C.R. Moulton, director of the Department of Nutrition at the Institute of American Mat Packers, in Chicago, endorses the frankfurter and says that, when made by a reputable from from the best grade, clean, and wholesome meat and pork trimmings, carefully processed and handled, it is excellent food.” He continued, “This kind of ‘hot dog’ does not need to be highly seasoned. It is the seasoning which makes food indigestible.” 

It was also noted that. “Village health officers, who have inspected Joe’s stand, say they found it extremely sanitary.” In addition, “One staunch devotee of the ‘hot dog,’ analyzed the subject carefully. His findings are that it isn’t the ‘dogs’ themselves which are responsible for the decline in favor. It’s the mustard. French mustard is no good with frankfurters, he has discovered. There is something in the inner construction of French mustard which does not combine gracefully with the meat.”; “But German mustard, ah, that’s something else. Germany, the home of the frankfurter, also evolved a mustard which fits the frankfurter like a well-made glove fits the hand. That combination means true delicacy of flavor, true enjoyment, and true nutrition.”

Finally, one more hot dog supporter was mentioned. “Babe Ruth, it is said, is a devotee of the frankfurter.”

It's important to mention that in July and August, newspapers all across the country reported on this hot dog battle, including in California, Connecticut, Georgia, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kentucky, Maine, Massachusetts, Michigan, Missouri, New Jersey, Ohio, Oklahoma, Pennsylvania, Tennessee, Texas, Virginia, Vermont and Washington. D.C.  The Times Union (NY), August 1, 1927, proclaimed that Hot Dog Joe had become famous all across the country. In only about 45 days, Joe had gone from a relative nobody to a national celebrity.

All of these newspaper mentions placed the issue of the health benefits of hot dogs on a national scale, providing much publicity for the hot dog, and helping to spread its popularity. Who would have thought that a small town battle would become such a national spectacle? This matter became "viral" within a few weeks, long before the start of the Internet and social media. 

Joe's case was put over to Monday, August 1, at 8pm. The Daily News, August 2, 1927, reported on the results of the trial the night before, noting it had been well-attended. Unfortunately, Joe was found guilty and assessed a $10 fine, although his attorney stated they would appeal the decision. The Mount Vernon Argus, August 2, 1927, provided some additional details. Joe paid his fine, although the matter could be appealed next Wednesday before County Judge William F. Bleakley. The conviction was based on “using other than a hand drawn vehicle in connection with hawking or peddling.”

The Herald Statesman, August 2, 1927, provided the full details of the ordinance, which stated: "No person, firm or corporation shall use any vehicle except a hand drawn vehicle in connection with hawking or peddling (except with respect to meats, fish, fruits or farm products) in any street, avenue, alley, lane, or park in the Village of Scarsdale; nor stand nor remain in any one place or within 1,000 feet thereof longer than 10 consecutive minutes.”  

Attorney Roach claimed the ordinance, due to the last semicolon, ungrammatical and would actually prevent a person from standing in one place more than 10 minutes. In addition, he claimed that Joe was not a hawker or peddler. Neither defense apparently was sufficient to the judge. In addition, it was mentioned that some of Joe's supporters at the trial included: Frank Fior, president of Adolf Gobel, Inc., Pendleton Dudley, Eastern director of the Institute of American Meat Packers, and Dr. C. Robert Moulton, director of the bureau of nutrition of the institute.

The Daily Item, August 3, 1927, reported on the greater effects of the trial. For example, even though received he a $10 fine, he also received “about $1,000,000 worth of publicity.” Frank M. Fior, President of Adolf Gobel, Inc., noted that Joe’s battle had “promoted hot dog sales throughout the country and was responsible in part for the record sales made by the company in the first six months of the year.” However, there was one negative effect, as the matter had also “virtually wrecked the advertising campaign of the meat packers to substitute the name ‘red hot’ for ‘hot dog.” Maybe without the attention from this trial, "red hots" might have become the most prominent term around the country.

In addition, Mount Vernon Argus, August 5, 1927, spoke with Edward Holden, who claimed to have been Joe's manager for the past five years. He also alleged he had received an offer of a contract for a movie about Joe's struggles. He wouldn't provide any details though of the offer. Interestingly, Holden ran the fountain at the Scarsdale drugstore, and made deliveries. He wasn't a professional agent, and nothing more was ever mentioned about this potential movie.

Hot Dog Joe now had to start selling hot dogs in other communities as he awaited his appeal. The Herald Statesman, August 20, 1927, mentioned that Joe was "permitted to peddle throughout the county because of a special license granted to him as a World War veteran.” Since WWI, the federal government has provided free peddler's license to veterans and such licenses are still granted today. 

The Herald Statesman, August 12, 1927, reported that another hot dog vendor, George Kolpas of Mount Vernon, set up a hot dog stand in Scarsdale near the high school. He was subsequently arrested and fined $10. Scarsdale wasn't going to tolerate any hot dog vendors. 

There was another lengthy article in the Brooklyn Citizen, August 15, 1927, giving much support to Joe. It began, “Editorials are appearing in hundreds of papers throughout the country, nearly all of these writers taking side with Hot Dog Joe, who is variously described as the ‘hot dog king’ or ‘bologna bandit.’ As a result, Scarsdale has become famous over night. It has ridden to fame on a hot dog.” 

There were also mentions of two athletes who were big fans of hot dogs. “The redoubtable Babe Ruth banks heavily on hot dogs to keep his body and soul together after a hard game…More than once he has credited the extra energy necessary to lifting a home run over the fence to the nutritive value of a hot dog.” In addition, “Columbia Lou Gehrig…. is now said to include hot dogs in his athletic diet.” 

More support came from Dr. C. R. Moulton, director of the department of nutrition at the Institute of the American Meat Packers, who stated, ‘The frankfurter is actually one of our finest American viands. A man can’t go wrong eating good frankfurters. Frankfurters are composed of roughly sixty per cent beef and forty per cent pork—that is the usual standard. In addition, there is a small percentage of flavorings and condiments, but in the really good frankfurters—such as those Hot Dog Joe sells—the percentage of spices is very low. A quality frankfurter needs very little seasoning. As food it cannot be excelled.”

Joe's appeal was first set for September 21, but it actually didn't occur until November 17, and a decision was due on November 21, although even that was delayed a week or so.

The Daily Times, November 30, 1927, reported that the County Judge had reversed Joe's conviction! The judge ruled that the prior justice had “erred in excluding certain testimony having to do with the unreasonableness of the ordinance under which the arrest was made.” In addition, the charge had been based only on the sale of a single hot dog, when it properly should have included multiple sales. Now, Joe could return to selling hot dogs in Scarsdale. 

 

The Daily News, December 1, 1927, published the above cartoon after Joe's legal win, and even provided a poem about Hot Dog Joe. : PIC of cartoon of HDJ and judge with song

Then, the Daily Times, December 1, 1927, reported that the authorities in Scarsdale might appeal the decision to the Court of Appeals in Albany, the highest tribunal in the State. Or, they might try to retry Hot Dog Joe. Attorney Roach was already preparing new and additional evidence for another potential trial. Joe was told by his attorney to hold off returning to Scarsdale until a final decision was made.

The Daily Item, December 16, 1927, mentioned that the Village board of Scarsdale had decided not to arrest Joe again, and actually were unsure how they could stop him. Then, the Herald Statesman, January 17, 1928, reported that the Supreme Court Justice William F. Bleakley had ruled that a hot dog is mostly meat, so Joe couldn't be arrested under the Scarsdale ordinance, which makes an exception for the selling of meats. Joe now returned to Scarsdale with his hot dog truck.

Near the end of the year, the Daily Item, November 12, 1928, reported that Hot Dog Joe would soon travel to Europe, researching hot dogs in other countries. His primary objective was to seek a new type of roll for his hot dogs. Before he left for Europe, he sold his hot dog business in Scarsdale to John Handjis, a fellow Greek immigrant and war veteran.

Joe spent about ten months touring Europe and Russia, returning in August 1929. The Mount Vernon Argus (NY), August 30, 1929, stated, “The man who made the lowly ‘dog’ famous from coast to coast two years ago this month, when he fought an edict that attempted to oust him from exclusive Scarsdale, has returned." His objective had been to find “a better means of serving the rolls that encase the luscious morsels in which he used to specialize.” However, he returned with few new ideas and claimed it would take him about 4-6 months to decide his next endeavor.  

However, his next endeavor was similar to his original one, the sale of hot dogs. The Mount Vernon Argus (NY), May 24, 1930, mentioned that Joe now possessed a new hot dog wagon, which had been built to his specifications by a Tarrytown concern. It took five men about one month to construct it. Joe now envisioned owning a fleet of wagons, with “The Famous Hot Dog Joe of Scarsdale” on one side, and “Here Comes Hot Dog Joe” on the other. The plan was to purchase 3-4 wagons and send them through the county during the Summer. In the Winter, he will just operate his personal wagon.

Soon after the return of Hot Dog Joe, he encountered more legal difficulties. The Mount Vernon Argus (NY), May 26, 1930, reported that he had been arrested in New Rochelle for illegally selling hot dogs, and would be represented again by Attorney Stephen R.J. Roach of White Plains. Then, the Mount Vernon Argus (NY), June 6, 1930, followed up, noting that Joe was convicted, fined $10, and an appeal was filed. The judge claimed that Joe needed more than just his veterans peddling license, that he also needed one from the city. 

More legal problems. The Daily Item, June 11, 1930, printed that Joe and John Handjis (who previously bought Joe's Scarsdale business) were arrested for selling hotdogs and soda at the Maple Moor Gulf Club. Joe also had been recently arrested in Bronxsville for a similar offense. At the gold club, its was alleged that Joe had pushed a soda and hot dog through a fence to a golfer. However, as the property line couldn't be established without a surveyor, the judge had to dismiss the charges. Fortunately, the charges in Bronxville Court were also dismissed around June 20.

Another arrest, in the same location. The Daily Item, June 28, 1930, reported that Joe had been arrested once again at the Maple Moor Gulf Club. However, this time, which was probably a set-up, the police possessed blue prints of the property lines and could show Joe had sold the hot dogs on the golf course property. He was fined $25, but that was dropped to $10, and his lawyer stated they would appeal.

Good legal news! The Mount Vernon Argus, October 4, 1930, noted that Joe's conviction in New Rochelle had been ordered stricken from the record as the appeals judge stated that his veteran’s peddler license was sufficient, and there was no need for an additional city license. And on October 8, it was reported that the charges in Bronxville had also been dismissed Joe had a veteran peddler's license.  

However, the good news was countered by more legal woes. The Mount Vernon Argus, October 4, 1930, also reported that John Handjis was seeking a restraining order against Joe. John accused Joe of violating a contract with him, which had been signed on October 22, 1928, when Joe sold his business to John for $900 cash and the assumption of $300 in debt. The contract also barred Joe from engaging in a similar business in the vicinity of White Plains or Scarsdale. John claimed that Joe had committed two violations of the contract, on September 23 and October 1, both when Joe brought his hot dug truck to the Scarsdale High School. Handjis alleged that on those days of violation, his business dropped from $30 a day to only $12.  

Less than three weeks later, the restraining order was granted, and Joe was prohibited from selling hot dogs to school children in White Plains, Hartsdale, and Scarsdale.

A few months later, Joe once again ran into legal trouble. The Daily Times, February 16, 1931, mentioned had Joe had received a summons for trespassing on town property and selling hot dogs without a license. On Valentine's Day, at the Silver Lake Park in East White Plains, there were hundreds of ice skaters so Joe set up his hot dog truck to sell to these skaters.  

The Daily Item, March 28, 1931, reported that the Silver Lake case had been continued once again, but the court determined that no specific complaint had been drawn up. Plus, Joe possessed a veterans peddlers which allowed him to sell his hot dogs. The town counsel then responded that the charge might be obstructing traffic. However, at the start of April, the charge was decided to be violation of Chapter 26 of the town ordinance, charging Joe will selling hot dogs without first obtaining a permit from the authorities. 

However, more changes to the charges came. The Daily Item, April 4, 1931, noted that the new charges would be for “creating a disturbance by disposing of goods, wares, etc, in Silver Lake, being an annoyance and disturbance to the citizens and travelers of the Town of Harrison” and “obstructing and incumbering Silver Lake Park, a public park, by disposing of goods, wares, etc.” However, a week later, the judge dismissed the first charge and reserved his decision on the second one.

It's interesting to see that around September 23, 1931, Joe obtained a peddler’s license for the Village of Scarsdale

The Mount Vernon Argus, July 26, 1932, reported that the County Court had reversed the judgement of the Judge in the Silver Lake case. The $10 fine which Joe had paid to the court was also ordered to be returned.  

More could legal news for Joe. The Mount Vernon Argus, November 10, 1932, stated that John Handjis had discontinued his injunction and damage suit against Joe. For some reason, they had resolved their differences and now Joe could legally sell his hot dogs in Scarsdale. 

And then the arrests continued once again. When would these towns learn better as Joe seemed to be able to defeat every one of those charges. The Mount Vernon Argus, June 21, 1933, reported that Joe had been arrested last week in Bronxville for violating a “new ordinance that prohibits the selling of food from a vehicle within 500 feet of a school.”

A photo of Joe's truck, which sold hot dogs as well as ice cream, in the New York Evening Journal, April 4, 1934.

The Mount Vernon Argus, March 3, 1939, stated that Joe had been arrested no fewer than 15 times during the 20 years he’s been selling his hot dogs. In July 1938, in White Plains, he had been arrested for selling ice cream from a vehicle parked within 250 feet of a school. He was fined $50 and the case was appealed. Unfortunately, Joe would lose his appeal, and when the matter was further appealed, he lost once again. 

Newspaper references to Hot Dog Joe began to peter out over the next several years, although Joe encountered a few additional legal problems during the first few years of the 1940s. His next major references wouldn't be until his obituaries in September 1957.

The Reporter Dispatch, September 25, 1957, reported that Costas Hetelekis, also known as Hot Dog Joe and Gus George, died, at age 61, on September 24 in the White Plains Hospital. Joe, a veteran of WWI, came to Westchester County in 1919 and became a U.S. citizen in 1926. He operated a “brown snack wagon with its orange colored roof and gold letters reading ‘Here Comes Hot Dog Joe.” He was survived by his wife, Anna Hetelekis. Although it wasn't mentioned in the obituaries, Costas was also survived by a daughter, Anatacia, who was in high school when he died. 

Hot Dog Joe was a simple hot dog vendor, selling his popular products near a high school in the small town of Scarsdale. When the town tried to ban his hot dog truck, he fought back, and his struggle quickly took center stage across the country. Backed by many supporters, Joe was successful in battling this ban, elevating the status of the hot dog, possibly solidifying its name (rather than "red hots"). This Greek immigrant was a hot dog Champion! He would spend many years fighting for the hot dog, being arrested multiple times for selling his popular product. He never surrendered and the hot dog industry owes him a great debt.