Exploring The Wines of Uruguay: Tannat, Albariño & More (Part 1)

2023 is the 25th Anniversary of the first Uruguayan wines exported to the U.S. 

According to the South Florida Sun Sentinel (FL), July 12, 1999, Ibesc Wine Distributors, located in Florida, imported the first Uruguayan wines in 1998, selling about 5,000 bottles. Guzman Castro, a 25 year old who was born in Uruguay and raised in the U.S, was the sales director for Ibesc, which was  was part of International Bonded Export Services, which was founded in 1988 by Guzman's father. Initially, the Uruguayan wines were sourced from two wineries, Bodega Santa Rosa and Bodegas Castillo Viejo (both which are still in operation). 

The wines included Reds, White and Sparkling wines, with grape varieties including Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and Tannat. The wines were priced from $5.50 to $15, and a number of wine tastings were held to promote the wines, especially as few people in the U.S. knew anything about wines from Uruguay. In 1999, the company hoped to increase their sales to about 30,000 bottles. It was also noted that there was an Uruguayan community in Florida of about 4,000 people. 

What was the status of Uruguayan exports in 1999? The Miami Herald (FL), June 22, 1999, noted that  in the first five months of the year, Uruguyan wine exports had totaled 832,000 liters and it was believed  they would break their previous record, from 1998, of 1 million liters. The European Union was their primary market although Brazil was the largest single country market. Their wines had been exported to countries including: England, France, Belgium, Norway and Canada, with new markets in Japan and Peru.  

Fast forward 25 years...

I recently attended Unexpected Uruguay, a Masterclass at the Commonwealth Wine School, presented by Peter Granoff, a Master Sommelier. Peter did an excellent job of leading the class, informing us all about Uruguay and its wines. The Masterclass provided an overview of Uruguay and its wine industry, and included a tasting of a number of their wines. My last large-scale event of Uruguayan wines was back in 2014, so it was interesting to what changes have occurred in the last 9 years. Thus, I've updated my prior articles on Uruguayan wine here for ease of reference. 

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Located in the southeasterm region of South America, between Argentina and Brazil, Uruguay (whose name means "land of the painted birds") possesses a pristine environment, with exceptionally pure water and about 410 miles of coastline. It's one of the purest eco-systems in the world. Approximately 82% of their land is dedicated to agriculture, the highest percentage of any country in the world. 

The country has a population of about 3.4 million people, which is less than the population of Greater Boston. There are also approximately 12 million cattle in Uruguay, nearly 4 for each person. Uruguay is one of the largest consumers of beef per capita, and beef is also one of Uruguay's primary exports. With all the red meat they consume, it's no surprise that they love to drink red wine.

Uruguay is a progressive, peaceful, small democratic country with a GDP that's now over $18,000 per capita. They have legalized abortion, same sex marriage and cannabis. They have also made voting in national elections to be mandatory, subject to penalities for failure to vote. Their 98.7% literacy rates is one of the highest in the world, and in comparison, the U.S. only has a literacy rate of 65-85%. From the photos I've seen of Uruguay, it also is quite beautiful, with so much natural wilderness. 

 Let us take a look at some of the history of Uruguay and its wine industry. 

As the conquistadors explored South America, it's thought that the Portuguese may have been the first Europeans to reach the region of Uruguay around 1512 though Spaniards traveled to the area around 1515. Both encountered fierce opposition from the Charrúa, an indigenous, semi-nomadic people and they also learned, to their dismay, that there was no gold or silver to be found in the region. Battles against the Charrúa continued as both Portugal and Spain decided they would still try to eventually colonize the area.

By 1603, though they didn't yet possess a permanent settlement, the Spanish introduced cattle, finding a verdant land which they thought would be conducive to such ranches. Finally, in 1624, they established their first permanent settlement at Soriano on the Río Negro. During this period, Jesuit missionaries also created a number of colonies in the valley of the Rio Paraguay. The Portuguese eventually decided to battle the Spaniards for the region, and thus, around 1670, they constricted a fort at Nova Colonia do Sacramento. The battles for control of this region would continue for more than 150 years,

No one knows  when grapes were first planted in Uruguay, although it's believed that Jesuit missionaries may have made their own wine in the 17th century. The first known actual documentation of Uruguayan wines wasn't until 1776. This written reference noted that Spanish explorers had brought vines from the Canary Islands to Uruguay. Not much seemed to happen with these vineyards for the next fifty years, as battles took prominence, with Portugal, Spain, Britain and Brazil all seeking to claim the area of Uruguay, The indigenous Charrúa became mostly casualties, and were largely wiped out in the massacre at Salsipuedes in 1831. Out of all these battles, Uruguay finally acquired its own independence in 1828.

With independence came an increased interest in vineyard plantings. The oldest still-operating winery, Los Cerros de San Juan, was established in the region of Canelones in 1854. Many Italians and Spanish came to Uruguay in the 1870s, contributing their knowledge and experience to the wine industry. 

Pascal Harriague (1819-1894) is said to be the Uruguayan "father of commercial winegrowing." Pascal immigrated from the French Basque region and eventually purchased an estate, La Caballada, in Salto, a town on the Rio Uruguay and it developed into a 200-hectare vineyard. In about 1870, it's alleged that he planted Tannat, a French grape from the Pyrenees, and its popularity soared. 

By 1877, Tannat was being considered the national grape of Uruguay, and in honor of Pascal, Tannat became commonly referred to as Harriague. However, new research seems to cast doubt on this origin tale, indicating that Tannat may have already been planted prior to the arrival of Pascal. I'm seeking more information on this matter.  

Another important person in the history of wine in Uruguay is Francisco Vidiella, a former gardener from Catalonia. In 1874, he established a vineyard and winery at Colón, planting Folle Noire and Gamay Blanc, both imported from France. Because of his contributions, Folle Noire became commonly referred to as Vidiella. It seems Uruguayans like to rename grapes after important countrymen. 

Many other grapes were introduced to Uruguay during this time though it wouldn't be until 1903 that the first wine laws would be enacted. Much of the wine produced at this time was for local consumption and it would not be until the 1980s that there was a major push to increase the quality of Uruguayan wine, as well as rules concerning labeling. 

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In 1988, the National Institute for Vitiviniculture (INAVI), was established, which is now responsible for the regulation and oversight of domestic wine production, and also gathers industry data, facts and statistics. One division of INAVI is Uruguay Wine, which is responsible for promoting their wines abroad. INAVI assisted in the creation of two levels of classification for Uruguayan wine: Vino Común (VC) and Vinos de Calidad Preferente (VCP). 

VC wines, which constitute about 80% of all wines, are mostly packaged in alternative packaging such as bag in box, tetrapak and glass demijohns. The most common varieties in these wines include Black Muscat, Ugni Blanc, and Isabella. Nearly all of these wines are consumed within Uruguay. 

VCP wines, which are mostly exported, must meet a number of quality standards, such as being made from vinifera grapes and sold in 750ml bottles. The wines must also be analyzed and approved by INAVI. If they fail to meet these standards, then the wines must be labeled as VC. If a grape variety is referenced on a label, the wine must contain at least 85% of that grape. In addition, if a geographical region is mentioned, all of the grapes must come from that region.

Since 1885, Uruguay has been divided in 19 departments, and currently wine is grown in 17 of these departments. The top five wine-producing departments include: Canelones 66.4%, Montevideo 12.3%, Maldonado 7%, Colonia 5.1%, San Jose 4.7%, with the other departments producing less than 2%. Uruguay has a very basic appellation system, which needs improvement, and I'll note that the sub-zones are not official appellations. INAVI has recently tried to clarify the growing regions into the following: Central 109 acres, Metropolitan 12K+ acres, Northern 84 acres, North Riverside, Oceanic 1K+ acres, and Southern Riverside 722 acres.

There are approximately 211 wineries in Uruguay, with about half producing less than 100,000 bottles, and about 45 of those wineries export wine. Most of the wineries are small, family-owned operations and there are very few large companies. There are also about 1129 registered vineyards, with 71% having less than 5 hectares. Uruguay has about 14,450 acres under vine, making it less than half the size of Napa Valley. Total annual production is about 10 million cases, making them the 4th largest producer in South America. 

It's said that the wines of Uruguay combine European tradition with New World technology, and are usually well balanced. As most of the wineries are small, with few large companies, they are mostly artisan operations. There are also a fair number of female wine makers in the country. As exports continue to increase, you'll be hearing more and more about Uruguayan wines, and based on my prior tasting of their wines, you'll want to drink these wines.

They consume most of the wine they produce, drinking 22 liters per capita, the most outside of Europe. They only export about 5% of their wine, though their exports have been increasing. Their largest export market is Brazil, and exports can be divided into South America 58%, the U.S. 19%, Europe 18%, and 5% Other. As Uruguayan wines become more popular in the U.S., it's likely that exports will increase. 

If you examine the location and climate of Uruguay, there is little question why it is an excellent location for vineyards. It is located on the same latitude as Capetown, South Africa and Adelaide, Australia. Uruguay is a relatively flat country and aspect, where you position your vineyards in relation to the sun, is much less important than in many other regions. Instead, the wind and closeness to the Atlantic Ocean are more important factors, which has led to many wineries being located close to the coast. With over 400 miles of coastline, there are plenty of places where wineries can be located.

The Uruguayan climate is very conducive, with a predominantly maritime climate and about 1000mm of rain annually. Weather is rarely extreme and summer temperatures rarely rise over the high 80s. Frost too is rare, and snow almost never falls. The high amount of rainfall can be an obstacle but Uruguayans have learned how to adapt. Humidity too can be an issue, so aeration around the canopy and fruit is considered essential. There are approximately 100 soil variations Uruguay, although the primary soils include granite, sedimentary rock, volcanic soil, and calcareous clays. 

Canelones is known for its clay-rich calcareous soils, while Montevideo is more known for the clay in its soil. Colonia possesses stony alluvial soils while Maldonado has soils rich with decomposed volcanic rock. What is most important to understand is that there is a diversity of soils within Uruguay, providing numerous different terroirs.

Technologically, Uruguay is also on the cutting edge with its dedication to georeferencing. This "applies geographic coordinates to digital images, to identify and survey all the different plots of a single vineyard. From this, a database is developed where each crop is geo-coded, giving it a unique identifier. This allows each Uruguayan wine to be traced to its exact source." Launched by INAVI in 2020, they are the only country in the world which is 100% georeferenced, and that information can be found online, although currently only in Spanish. Eventually, all of their wines will have QR codes, allowing you easy access to this information. 

Georeferencing also dovetails into the issue of sustainability, an important issue for much of Uruguay, and not just in the wine industry. In 2022, 104 vineyards in Uruguay had received the Sustainable Winegrowing Certification, while in 2023, so far, this number had increased to 162 vineyards. 

Their vineyards are planted with about 27% Tannat, 19% Moscatel, 11% Merlot, 10% Ugni Blanc, 4% Cabernet Franc, 3% Marselan, 2% Sauvignon Blanc, 2% Chardonnay, 1.6% Albariño, and about 20% other grapes, including Riesling, Viognier, Syrah, Arinarnoa (cross of Tannat & Cabernet Sauvignon), Nebbiolo, Tempranillo, Petit Verdot, Petit Manseng, Roussanne, Sangiovese, Zinfandel. 

There are at least several wineries with experimental vineyards, researching the viability of numerous different grapes. Albariño has been garnering lots of attention, especially when grown on granitic soils, and you may see increasing amounts of acreage devoted to this grape.  

The undisputed signature grape of Uruguay is Tannat, which is planted on about 7200 acres, and the country has more Tannat vineyards than the rest of the world combined. France probably has the second highest amount of Tannat vineyards though the grape has spread across the world, from Australia to South Africa. In the U.S., Tannat can be found in California, Maryland and Virginia, and in South America, Tannat is also found in Argentina, Bolivia, Peru and Brazil. To Granoff, Tannat reminds him in some respects of Touriga Nacional. 

It is believed that Tannat may have originated around the 13th century, planted in the town of Madiran, though the first written mention of this grape wasn't until the 18th century. It's original home is likely in the Western Pyrenees of France, and now is primarily grown in France in the Madiran AOC. Sometime before 1870, it's believed that Basque immigrants brought Tannat vines to South America and they ended up in Uruguay. The vines adapted well to the climate of Uruguay and it quickly became considered the national grape. This reminds me of Malbec, how that French grape thrived in Argentina and became their signature grape. Tannat is not as well known as Malbec to the average wine consumer, but that could change in the future,

Tannat is easy to grow, ripens late, and has a thick skin which provides some resistance to powdery mildew and botrytis. It produces robust wines with strong tannins, dark fruit flavors and spicy notes. It is also considered to be one of the healthiest red wines as it contains 3 to 4 times more antioxidants than other red grapes, and also has a high concentration of resveratrol, the most of any red grape.  In the region of Madiran, the number of men who live to their 90s is double the national average.

As Malbec wines in Argentina are very different from Malbec wines from Cahors, France, so are Tannat wines in Uruguay very different from Tannat wines from Madiran. Tannat wines in Uruguay tend to be softer and less tannic than that in France. The Tannat grape has transformed over the last 140+ years in Uruguay, and can create compelling wines. 

In Uruguay, Tannat wine is not monolithic, but actually is produced in a number of different styles, from soft & fruity to big & bold. You'll find inexpensive, easy-drinking wines as well as high-end, terroir driven Tannats. Though there are plenty of single varietal Tannat wines, you will also find it blended with a number of other grapes, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Zinfandel, Syrah and Viognier. These blends often help to tame the strong tannins of the Tannat, making the wines more approachable.

In Uruguay now, you'll find many different types of wines, including Red, White, Rosé, Sparkling, Pet-Nat, Carbonic, Orange, Amphora-Aged, and more. You should seek out Uruguayan wines, and ask for them at your local wine shops. Over the course of the last ten years, I've tasted a variety of Uruguayan wines and been impressed with their quality and taste. 

In Part 2, I'll provide some wine reviews of the wines I tasted at this Masterclass. 

Bodega Garzón: Uruguayan Treasures, From Albarino to Tannat

“Al pan, pan y al vino, vino.”
This Uruguayan saying literally translates as “To the bread, bread and to wine, wine.” Its deeper meaning refers to something that is said with truth, being frank and upfront. I think this is applicable to the wines of Bodega Garzón, an Uruguayan winery, which seeks to present wines of terroir, not concealed with heavy oak, and sometimes with no oak at all. The truth of the land and the grapes is intended to be revealed within their wines.

I was recently invited, as a media guest, to visit La Bodega By Salts, an Uruguayan restaurant in Watertown, by Alexander Griffiths, a native of Uruguay and the export manager for Bodega Garzón. While enjoying a sampling of the delicious dishes of La Bodega, we tasted a range of wines from his portfolio. All of the wines were delicious and well-made, though of course I had my personal preferences. These are wines that would appeal to most wine consumers and which earn a hearty recommendation.

Alexander and I not only spoke about the wines, but also talked about a myriad of other subjects. He was personable and interesting, and we enjoyed a fun and tasty evening. For some background on Uruguay and their wines, please check out three of my prior articles, which stemmed from a large Uruguay wine tasting several years ago: The Wines of Uruguay (Part 1), The Wines of Uruguay (Part 2), and The Wines of Uruguay (Part 3). I found many intriguing wines at this event, including a couple from Bodega Garzón, thus it was educational to taste their wines now, to see how their winemaking has evolved.

I'll provide a brief update on the Uruguayan wine industry as well. In 2017, the country produced a record-setting 4.6 million liters of wine, a growth of 32% from 2016. Tannat was the most dominant grape used for these wines. Brazil remains the #1 market for Uruguayan wines, constituting about 50% of exports, followed by the U.S. and Mexico. Combined, those three countries represent about 85% of the total export market. And even though the U.S. is the #2 market, Uruguayan wine imports are still relatively small.

Alejandro P. Bulgheroni, an Argentinian, got his start working in the energy sector, including a number of agro-industrial projects. He is currently a billionaire, with a large portfolio of wine interests, currently including approximately 21 estates in six different countries and regions, from Australia to California, Italy to Argentina, France to Uruguay. And it all began with Bodega Garzón.

Around 1999, Alejandro and his wife, Bettina, traveled to the region Garzón and were enamored with the land, eventually deciding to purchase 2200 hectares of land and 2000 hectares of forest. They planted olive trees to produce olive oil, and almond trees, because Bettina wanted them. They also raised cattle, kept bees for honey, and harvested lumber from the forests. Currently, they grow 14 types of olives, almonds, blueberries and pecans.

Alejandro eventually decided he also wanted to grow vineyards and produce wine, so he purchased more property, about five miles from his current properties. This estate, composed of many rolling hills, is located in the eastern border of the Maldonado region, about 11 miles from the Atlantic Ocean, and is still one of the only wineries in this region. He then hired Alberto Antonini, a famed enologist from Tuscany, to make that desire a reality. In 2007, Antonini started to examine the region, checking its soils and terroir, trying to ascertain what might grow best. He felt that the region resembled Galicia, a region in the northwest of Spain, which explains why they eventually planted Albariño, a dominant grape in Galicia.

It is important to recognize the different soil types in Uruguay, as the Western region tends to have clay soils while the Eastern region, where Garzón is located, tends to have granite soils. In 2008, the first Garzón vines began to be planted, starting with about 12 different grapes. Their first commercial vintage was in 2011 and they started exporting their wines in 2013. Thus, their wines are relative newcomers to the U.S. market.

In 2016, their state-of-the-art winery and restaurant opened to public, and they are seeking LEED (Leadership in Energy & Environmental Design) certification, which would make them the first sustainable winery outside the U.S. with that certification. About 30,000 people visit their winery each year. Bodega Garzón is passionate about sustainability and their goal is to make all of their vineyards 100% organic. Currently, the winery owns about 500 acres of vineyards, broken down into 1000 different lots. They grow grapes including Tannat, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Marselan, Caladoc, Albariño, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Viognier, and Petit Manseng. Despite that diversity, about 1/3 of their vineyards are planted with Tannat.

About 70% of their wine production is exported and in 2017, they were the largest exporter in Uruguay, comprising about 28.5% of the total market share. About 38% of their exports are sent to Brazil while about 22%, approximately 11,000 cases, are exported to the U.S. It is clear to see that exports of Uruguayan wines to the U.S. remain comparatively low, making it very much a niche wine. However, the Uruguayan wine industry is seeing significant growth so more will get soon exported to the U.S. For Garzón, they grew 300% in 2017, and that rapid growth is certainly a challenge to handle properly. They also believe that more education is needed, to teach consumers about Uruguay and their wines.

The Bodega Garzón wines imported into the U.S. come in three basic levels, Reserve (about $17), Single Vineyard (about $27) and the high-end Balasto (about $120). As their website states, "Garzón’s terroir is made up of ballast, a fantastic soil of fine stone. It has an excellent drainage and plenty of minerals that vines can absorb; they lend minerality, vibrancy, complexity and elegance to the wine." In addition, when oak aging is conducted, the barrels tend to be quite large and untoasted, so the oak won't overpower and conceal the fruit and other characteristics of the wine. Overall, I found the wines to be well-balanced, elegant, and fresh, with plenty of acidity, a nice minerality, and each level possessed its own unique style.

The evening began with the 2017 Sauvignon Blanc Reserve, which is fermented in stainless steel and sees no oak. All of the Reserve wines are about freshness, and this Sauvignon Blanc certainly presented a fresh and crisp image. The natural acidity is said to be due to the vineyard's closeness to the ocean. There were delightful and bright flavors of grapefruit and lemon, with mineral notes, and all of the elements were well-balanced. An excellent summer wine, this would also work great with seafood.

Bodega Garzón is one of the only Uruguayan wineries that grows Albariño, with 20% of their vineyards dedicated to this grape. This might be due to the region being a great growing region for the grape but there are very few wineries currently located there. The 2016 Albariño Reserve is fermented in stainless steel and sits on the lees for 5-6 months. It was fresh, clean and crisp, with delicious fruit flavors of peach, citrus and apple, some mineral notes, and a pleasing richness to its body. This would be delicious on its own, sitting on your porch this summer, or paired with some oysters, shrimp or grilled fish. It will remind you of a tasty Spanish Albariño.

The 2016 Albariño Single Vineyard is produced from high quality grapes, selected from the best seven plots in the vineyard. About 80% of the grapes were fermented in large, concrete tanks (without epoxy) and the rest were fermented in untoasted oak barrels. The wine spends about 8 months on the lees. This is an impressive wine, elegant and complex, something meant to be slowly sipped and savored. It has a richer texture, great acidity, and more savory notes with only underlying and subtle fruit notes. The finish is long and satisfying, simply a stellar wine. Highly recommended.

The two Albariño wines have very different styles, but both certainly have their place, dependent on your preference at the moment.

I was also impressed with their 2015 Cabernet France Reserve, which was fermented in concrete tanks and then aged for 6-12 months in 50 hectoliter, untoasted French oak barrels and casks. With a rich purple color, the wine has alluring aromas, lots of ripe fruit and hints of spice. On the palate, there are delicious black and blue fruit flavors, enhanced by mild spice notes and a hint of herbal notes. There isn't a prominent flavor of green peppers, which delights me. The tannins are well integrated, the finish lingers, and there is a touch of mint on the finish too. This would be a great wine to pair with grilled meats this summer. Or even a pizza. Highly recommended.

Tannat is the signature red grape of Uruguay, similar in some respects to Malbec in Argentina. It can be a highly tannic grape, due in part because Tannat has more seeds than any other grape. The Tannat grapes for Garzón's wines include some clones from France, but I was told that their soils make the grapes taste different. The 2016 Tannat Reserve is fermented in concrete, and aged for 6-9 months in untoasted, large French oak barrels. This wine is all about fresh red and black fruit flavors, with very mild tannins, crisp acidity and a pleasant finish. It is bold yet restrained, great for burgers to pizza, grilled meats or meaty pasta dishes.

The 2016 Tannat Single Vineyard is a stunner, which is produced from high quality grape from the best seven parcels in the vineyards. It is fermented in concrete, and aged for 12-18 months in untoasted, 5000 liter French oak casks. Like the Albariño Single Vineyard, it is elegant and complex, with well-integrated tannins and delicious flavors of black fruits, mild spices, mineral notes and a hint of chocolate. It is well balanced, with plenty of acidity, and a lengthy finish that is eminently satisfying. This is a wine you could slowly savor all night, though it would work well with a variety of foods as well, especially meat-based. Highly recommended.

The final wine of the evening was their high-end 2015 Balasto, the first release of this line. The name, "Balasto," refers to the upper layer of granite of the soil. It is considered a blend of the best grapes of the vineyard, and this vintage was a blend of 45% Tannat, 25% Cabernet France, 20% Petit Verdot, and 10% Marselan. Subsequent vintages may have different ratios, such as the 2016 vintage which had less Petite Verdot and more Marselan. The 2015 was released last September, only about 8800 bottles, and the label ink actually includes some granite in it. Subsequent vintages have a large amount of production.  

The grapes were fermented in concrete tanks and then the wine spent about 20 months in untoasted, large French oak casks. This is a powerful, muscular wine with concentrated red and black fruit flavors, yet it still possesses a beautiful elegance. The tannins are restrained, helping to rein in its power. There are also subtle spice notes, nice acidity, a hint of earthiness and it possesses a lingering and pleasant finish. This is a wine built for aging, though it is still impressive now. If you wish to splurge on a wine, or buy someone a high-end gift, then you should consider this wine. Highly recommended.

Uruguayan wines are a niche that you should explore, and the wines of Bodega Garzón would be a great starting point. They will show you the potential of Uruguay, as well as the terroir, for both white and red wines, from Albariño to Tannat. Their different levels will show you the various wine styles you can find, from fresh and fruity to more savory and complex. Most of their wines, except for the Balasto, are fairly affordable, from $17-$27, with the Balasto being a splurge wine. Expand your vinous horizons and let your palate visit Uruguay.

La Bodega By Salts: Compelling Uruguayan Cuisine in Watertown

Most restaurants have a soft opening for a week or two, giving themselves a little time to prepare for their official opening, testing out their food and service with actual customers. Last week, I dined at a restaurant during their soft opening, which has been going on for over four months. Why such a lengthy soft opening? I'll explain that in a moment but first let me tell you that I had an impressive experience and am eager to return.

La Bodega by Salts, located in Watertown is owned by Gabriel Bremer and Analia Verolo, the former owners of the famed Cambridge restaurant, Salts, which offered upscale French cuisine. Back in 2014, a serious flood within the restaurant led to its closure. Gabriel and Analia considered what to do next, eventually finding a potential location in Watertown. However, they didn't believe that a similar concept to Salts would fit their new location so they opted for Uruguayan cuisine, reflective of Analia's homeland. The main idea was to offer wood-fired, farm-to-table cuisine with a primary influence from Uruguay and other influences from Spain.

I was invited to visit the restaurant by Alexander Griffiths, the export manager for Bodega Garzón, an Uruguayan winery. We sampled numerous dishes while tasting wines from his portfolio. I'll be discussing those wines in another post in the near future.

The 90-seat restaurant is split into two sections, the first being a narrow greenhouse-like room (pictured above) with a lengthy bar on the left side. The second section is housed within a refurbished, train dining car from the 1950s. Overall, the restaurant presents as casual and homey, with a bit more intimacy in the dining car.

The lengthy bar has numerous shelves of wines and spirits, and I began my experience by sitting at the bar so that I could have a drink.

At the end of the bar, the area is for the preparation of the cold food dishes on their menu. What a beautiful leg of jamon!

I had the chance to meet both Gabriel and Analia, who were very personable, and I observed them being that way with many of their customers. I spoke more with Analia, clearly witnessing her passion for the restaurant and her home country of Uruguay. She explained to me the reasons for the length of the soft opening, the challenges they faced as they attempted to open their restaurant. At one point in the process, they were informed by the licensing board that they needed to open La Bodega within 15 days or risk losing their liquor license. Gabriel and Analia weren't expecting to have to open so soon, and there were plenty of obstacles facing them, but they chose to make the huge effort to comply.

Somehow they found a way to pull all of the pieces together, furnishing the restaurant, hiring staff, gathering all of the necessary licenses, and much more. They succeeded in opening within fifteen days and I'm sure many of other restaurant owners would have failed in a similar situation. With this rush, they couldn't put together everything in place as they wanted it to be. So, since their opening, they have been working on everything else, such as trying to garner sufficient staff, and creating the menus they desire. Currently, they are only open during the evening, Wednesday to Saturday. In the future, they want to open from Monday to Saturday, and be open for lunch as well.

I didn't witness any issues, in either service or the cuisine, during my visit. Whatever issues they still have weren't readily visible. My visit was on a Friday evening and the restaurant was packed, a good sign that the restaurant has already earned a good reputation. Based on my own experiences, I too would provide a hearty recommendation for La Bodega.

Their drinks program is intriguing and extensive, including spirits, cocktails, wine, beer, ciders, and more. The drinks list has 9 special cocktails ($10-$14) such as the Compartir Or Not, made with Yerba Mate, Lemon, Orange, & Brandy or the Sangria de la Casa, made with red wine, compressed pear, spice, & house citrus liquor. I opted for the Mangalitsa Old Fashioned ($13), made with Amarena Wild Cherries, Angostura, and Mangalitsa Jamon Infused Bourbon. It was delicious, very savory with a briny element to it. What a fine way to begin the evening.

You'll find an interesting list of beers as well as 4 ciders ($6-$9), including 2 from Spain, 1 from New York, and 1 from Boston. There are 8 wines available by the glass ($9-$16), with 3 from Uruguay, 3 from Spain, 1 from France, and 1 from California. Those wines are also broken down into 1 Sparkling Wine, 1 Rosé, 3 Whites, and 3 Reds. There are also 6 Vermouth by the glass ($9-$10), including 2 from Spain, 1 from Italy and 1 from France. The bottle list begins with a list of about 30 Uruguay wines, from five wineries including Bodegas Carrau, Bodegas Cerro Chapeu, Bodegas Bouza, Familias Deicas, and Bodegas Garzon. The rest of the wine list includes numerous wines from the cellar of Salts as well as others, with a diverse selection from all over the world.

We began our dinner with bread and Bodega Garzón olive oil, a blend of Arbequina and Coratina olives. The food menu contains about 25 dishes, mostly small plates with a couple larger dishes. Dishes are priced from $4-$27, with 10 dishes priced at $10 and under while only 2 dishes are priced over $20. Much of the menu are Uruguayan specialties while other dishes have a Spanish influence. There is plenty of variety and everyone should be able to find several dishes that appeal to them, whether they seek vegetable or meat dishes. Overall, each dish is large enough for two people, if not more, to share. I'm a big fan of small plates as I like to experience the diversity of the menu and don't mind sharing. Please note that the menu is subject to change.

The Cured Mangalitsa Ham with Pan Con Tomato ($15) includes paper thin slices of ham from Mangalitsa pigs which were raised in Hungary, eating acorns, and were then sent for finishing to Spain for three years. The silky ham had a nutty undertone, a mild saltiness and plenty of flavor.

The Uruguayan Style Empanadas ($10) change daily and Beef ones were available during my visit. A fine, flaky crust encased a tasty filling of finely chopped beef, veggies, spices and herbs. They brought to mind some of the empanadas I enjoyed when I visited Argentina.

The Grilled Provolone, Uruguayan style ($8) is a medium-sized pan of cheese, topped with some oregano. The dark spot atop the dish is just grilled cheese which provides a bit of a crunchy texture, complementing the spongy cheese beneath. With a mild sharpness to it, this melted cheese was delicious, a nice blend of textures, and was excellent atop the country bread. I'd probably order this every time I visited La Bodega.

The Wood Grilled Wild Spanish Octopus ($15), with heirloom fingerling potatoes and pimenton, had several very tender pieces of tentacle, with a pleasant smokiness. Octopus isn't the easiest to prepare well but they hit the mark. The potatoes were also cooked just right. A winner of a dish.

The Wood Roasted Mussels ($10), with toasted almond, spring green garlic, and garden herbs, presented a nice mound of plump and tender mussels with a tasty broth, perfect for dipping bread. There was a touch of smokiness to the mussels, enhanced by the garlic. Another winner of a dish.

The Heirloom Baby Carrots ($10), prepared A la plancha, are made with Romesco and almonds. The tender, grilled carrots were tasty, the almonds adding some nuttiness and texture to the dish.

The Wood Grilled Sweetbreads ($14) are topped by a Sauce Verde and roasted lemon.  I love sweetbreads and these were prepared well, with a great texture, some crispiness on the exterior, and a smoky element. The lemon gave the dish some acid to cut the richness of the sweetbreads.

The Albondigas de Cordero ($14) are spring lamb meatballs with English peas and green garlic. The tender meatballs were flavorful with the peas adding a slight sweetness to the dish. Nice comfort food.

Chivito, means literally means "small goat," is a popular sandwich in Uruguay, and generally is a steak sandwich with a variety of toppings. The Chivito al Pan ($17) is sliced beef tenderloin, country ham, bacon, and a fried egg. It is quite a large sandwich, and a bit messy to eat, but it was also quite tasty, with plenty of tender meats. The soft roll enhanced the sandwich, which is large enough to make its own meal. Again, this is an excellent comfort food and I understand its popularity in Uruguay.

The dessert menu has about 9 or so options, and we opted for these Dulce de Leche filled-cookies. Dulce de leche is a hugely popular item in Uruguay, and is served in a myriad of dishes. We also got to taste their Flan, which was sweet and smooth, topped with a dollop of whipped cream.

We enjoyed every dish we ordered, which were all well-prepared and possessed of balanced flavors. Much of the menu could be considered comfort food, the type of food that just pleases the belly. The drinks list is compelling as well, and if I lived closer to Watertown, I might be a regular at the bar. This is a worthy successor to Salts, though the cuisine is very different. I love Analia's passion for her heritage, and Uruguayan cuisine certainly deserves a place in our culinary scene. I strongly recommend you check out La Bodega, and I'll report back again when I revisit the restaurant.

Bodega Garzón: From Albariño to Tannat

The wines of Uruguay have started to make their mark in the U.S., and deservedly so, and their popularity will only continue to grow as their presence expands in the market. Last September, I attended a large Uruguayan trade tasting, and was thoroughly impressed with what I tasted. Check out my prior articles on the Wines of Uruguay: Part 1, Part 2, and Part 3. These articles cover everything from history to tasting notes, grapes to wineries, giving you an intriguing glimpse into Uruguay.

Recently, there was another major Uruguayan trade tasting event, and I had the opportunity to learn even more about their wines. Prior to this event, I attended a media lunch at the Capital Grille with Gilles de Chambure, MS, who does some work for the Wines Of Uruguay. He wanted to share with me some information and wines from Bodega Garzón.

Alejandro Bulgheroni, an Argentinian, got his start working in the energy sector, including a number of agro-industrial projects. Around 1999,  Alejandro and his wife, Bettina, came to Garzón and were enamored with the land, eventually deciding to purchase 2200 hectares of land and 2000 hectares of forest. They first planted olive trees to produce olive oil, and almond trees, because Bettina wanted them. Today, they grow 14 types of olives, almonds, blueberries and pecans.

Alejandro eventually decided he also wanted to grow vineyards and produce wine, so he hired Alberto Antonini, an enologist from Tuscany, to make that desire a reality. In 2007, Antonini started to examine the region, checking its soils and terroir, trying to ascertain what might grow best. In 2008, the first vines began to be planted.

Bodega Garzón is located in the eastern border of the Maldonado region, about 11 miles from the Atlantic Ocean. It is one of the only wineries in this region, though others have started showing interest in expanding into the area. Currently, the bodega owns about 500 acres of vineyards, broken down into 1000 different lots. They grow grapes including Tannat, Merlot, Cabrnet Franc, Pinot Noir, Marselan, Caladoc, Albarino, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Viognier, and Petit Manseng. Despite that diversity, about 80% of their vineyards are planted with Tannat, the signature grape of Uruguay.

Their latest project is the construction of a new, state-of-the-art winery which will be LEED Certified (Leadership in Energy & Environmental Design), and that will make them the first sustainable winery outside the U.S. with that certification. Bodega Garzón is passionate about sustainability and plan to open the new winery by December. About 25 hectares of their vineyards are organic and their goal is to eventually become 100% organic. The 2015 harvest is considered to be an exceptional vintage so you should look forward to those Uruguayan wines in the near future.

One of the factors that makes Uruguay, which has 410 miles of coastline, unique in the wine producing nations of South America, is that part of the country, especially the Maldonado region, is influenced by the Atlantic Ocean. Penguins can also sometimes be seen on the beaches in Maldonado. In some respects, Maldonado can resemble parts of Spanish Galicia, which may explain why Albariño may do very well in that part of Uruguay.

Only three wines from Bodega Garzón are currently imported into Massachusetts by Carolina Wine & Spirits, including a Sauvignon Blanc, Albariño and Tannat (priced around $15-$20). I tasted previous vintages of the Sauvignon Blanc and Albariño and enjoyed them, so was pleased to taste different vintages, and see how they paired with food.

The 2013 Sauvignon Blanc was bright and crisp, with summery tastes of citrus and grapefruit. There were not any grassy notes, and it was more on the leaner side, an excellent wine for seafood or a warm summer day. Nicely balanced, it had plenty of character for the price, and should appeal to many consumers.

I was even more impressed with the 2014 Albariño, and Garzón is one of only two producers of this grape in Uruguay. It spends all of its time in stainless steel and has some aging on the lees. It had excellent acidity, with bright citrus flavors and hints of tropical fruits as well. The longer it sat in the glass, it began acquiring more of a creaminess to the body, due to its lees aging. You would be hard pressed not to think this was a Spanish Albariño. With a creamy Lobster Bisque, it paired well, the acidity cutting through the creamy fat of the bisque. Highly recommended.

With a Tannat, you might readily choose to pair it with a steak, which is always a fine choice. However, I decided to try some seafood, the Sushi-Grade Sesame Seared Tuna with Gingered Rice (pictured above). The 2013 Tannat is produced with a little Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Marselan, and Caladoc.  It is aged in large oak barrels for about 18 months, using larger barrels as they want to show more of the fruit of the Tannat.

It is a muscular wine, one of power, yet there is still restraint and the wine isn't overly tannic or unwieldy. It is under control, presenting with delicious ripe plum and black cherry flavors, and hints of spicy undertones. The fruit dominates but it isn't a one-note wine, with more complexity than you might expect for a wine of this price point. It went very well with the seared tuna, the richness of the raw fish harmonizing well with the power of the Tannat. Highly recommended.

Check out the wines of Bodega Garzón at your local wine shop, or ask your shop owner to order them for you. And seek out other wines from Uruguay too.

The Wines Of Uruguay (Part 3)

The Wines of Uruguay 2nd Annual U.S. Trade Tour was an excellent opportunity to sample and learn about a wide range of Uruguayan wines which are currently being exported to the U.S., though all are not yet available in Massachusetts. At this event, there were 16 wineries, pouring a total of over 80 wines, including Sparkling, Rosé, White, Red and Dessert wines. Though I didn't taste everything, I was able to sample about 50 wines, enough to form some preliminary thoughts about the wines of Uruguay.

In general, the white wines, mainly Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, were dry, clean and well balanced, with more of a European flair. They were food friendly and many were good values. The red wines were also well balanced, food friendly, and more interesting than most of the white wines. I was intrigued to see the range of Tannat wines, from easy drinking, inexpensive wines to higher end, more tannic and complex wines.

The easy drinking, inexpensive Tannats would make an excellent introduction for wine consumers to the wines of Uruguay. As inexpensive Malbec wines from Argentina caught on with consumers, so could these inexpensive Tannats catch on too. Their often fruity and approachable style would please many wine drinkers, and providing a good introduction to the Tannat. Consumers could eventually move up to the Tannat blends, where grapes like Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon help to soften the tannins of the Tannat, making them approachable too, but with added complexity and flavor.. The high-end, single varietal Tannats could intrigue and delight the wine lover, who seeks something new to experience.

Besides Tannat, other red grapes seem to possess some potential in Uruguay too, from Pinot Noir to Cabernet Franc. Though there were only a handful of such wines at the tasting, I generally enjoyed what I tasted and would like to see more examples to better ascertain their potential. In addition, I would like to explore more of their Sparkling and Rosé wines, as I only had a single example of each, As Uruguay continues to experiment and study, they will better be able to determine which grapes will grow best in the different terroirs of their country. Uruguay isn't a one-trick pony which must rely only on a single grape, Tannat. It is a diverse wine region with the potential to produce numerous interesting and delicious wines.

Now, I''m going to discuss some of the Uruguayan wines which most intrigued me at this event. Please note that I didn't taste all of the wines at the event, and won't be mentioning every wine I tasted. This is more a survey of some of the most interesting and delicious wines I encountered.

Alto De La Ballena
With a name that roughly translates as "high of the whales," this winery was founded in 2000 with the purchase of 20 hectares of land in the Maldonando region. Their original goal was to make top notch Merlot, though they have found their land is excellent for producing Syrah, which has been compared to that found in Crozes-Hermitage.

The 2010 Alto De La Ballena Reserva Merlot, which sees about 1 year in French oak, was fruity and pleasant, an easy-drinking wine. The 2010 Alto De La Ballena Reserva Cabernet Franc was more intriguing to me, with deep black fruit flavors, smooth tannins, mild spice notes and a lengthy,pleasing finish. Based on some of my other tastings of Uruguayan Cabernet Francs, I think this is a very good region for that grape. The prize of their wines was the 2010 Cetus Syrah, about $60, which isn't yet available in Massachusetts. Only about 1800 bottles were produced, and it is a big,though not an overpowering wine, with rich, black fruit flavors, an underlying backbone of spice, some floral elements, and a certain elegance. One of my top three wines of the tasting.

Antigua Bodega Stagnari
With roots extending back to 1910, and even longer roots to wine making in Italy, this winery owns about 20 hectares of vineyards. Their 2014 Del Pedregal Chardonnay, which sees no oak, was clean and well balanced, with pleasant apple, lemon and pineapple flavors. Easy drinking, this is a pleasing style which should please many.

Finca Narbona
The winery produces about 80,000 bottles annually, and their wines are not yet available in Massachusetts though I hope they can find a local distributor in the near future. Pictured above is Fabiana Bracco, the Export Manager for Narbona.

The 2013 Puerto Carmelo Sauvignon Blanc is produced more in a French style and made to be food friendly. It has prominent fruit flavors, especially grapefruit and lemon, with a clean taste and nice acidity. The 2013 Narbona Blend 001 (about $25) was excellent, a Tannat based blend where they won't reveal the other grapes. With moderate tannins, the wine had intriguing depth of flavor to it, a delicious blend of black fruit and spice, with hints of leather, blueberry and herbal notes. Highly recommended. Pinot Noir is made by only about 7 wineries in Uruguay, and the 2013 Narbona Pinot Noir (about $30-$35) is an elegant example, with pleasing red fruit flavors, some minerality and a hint of earthiness. The 2010 Narbona Tannat Roble (about $40) is big and bold, tannic and muscular, with almost a sweetness to the rich, dark fruits. Make sure you have a thick, juicy steak handy.

Bodega Garzon
Located on the eastern border of the Maldonado region, they are one of only two wineries that currently produces an Albarino. Their 2014 Garzon Saiuvignon Blanc ($14) sees no oak and sits for about 6 months on the lees. Delicious grapefruit and citrus flavors, with more richness than other Sauvignon Blancs. An easy-drinking value wine. The 2013 Garzon Albarino also sits on the lees for about 6 months, and was an excellent example of this varietal. Crisp and clean with tasty white peach and citrus flavors, as well as some with mineral accents. Would love this wine with some fresh seafood.

Artesana Winery
Established in 2007 and located in the Canelones region, this small winery produces only around 2000 cases, hoping to eventually expand to 4000 cases. They have a 20 acre vineyard and are the only winery which grows Zinfandel. They just acquired a Massachusetts distributor, Humboldt Imports, though their Tannat-Zinfandel-Merlot blend is not yet available.

The 2012 Artesana Tannat ($16)  is a nice expression of Tannat, with tasty black fruit flavors, mild spice notes and hints of smoke. The tannins are moderate and the wine delivers plenty for this price. The 2012 Artesana Tannat-Merlot ($16) is a blend of 60% Tannat and 40% Merlot, which matures in both French and US oak. Smooth and easy-drinking, this was a compelling wine, blending red and black fruit flavors, spicy notes and mild tannins. This is the type of wine which would convert many wine drinkers to lovers of Tannat.

I was thoroughly impressed with the 2011 Tannat-Zinfandel-Merlot, a 55%/25%/20% blend that spent 24 months in French oak and only 130 cases were produced  The harmonious complexity of this wine was superb, and the restrained tannins made this wine even more compelling. There was so much going on in this wine, and all of it was pleasing and delicious. Highly recommended and one of the top three wines of the tasting.

Giminez Mendez:
They were the first winery in Uruguay to produce a wine with Malbec, and they were also the only winery at the tasting to showcase a Rosé. The 2014 Alta Reserva Malbec Rose, with a medium red color, was dry and clean with tasty red fruit flavors and good acidity. A pleasing, easy-drinking Rosé which can be enjoyed year round.

Bodegas Carrau
This family first made wine back in Spain around 1752 and eventually some of the family traveled across the Atlantic and started producing wine in Uruguay around 1930. They produce an intriguing portfolio of wines, from value wines to high-end bottlings, and consistently they are quality wines.

The only sparkling wine at the tasting was the 2009 Sust Vintage, Methode Champenoise Sparkling Wine ($24.99), a blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir. Aged for 30 months on the lees; this will remind you of a Champagne, dry and clean, with rich flavors of green apple, and brioche. The 2013 Savignon Blanc sur lie ($12.99) sees no oak and spends about 6 months on the lees. Tasty grapefruit and lemon flavors, it is more of a French style than a New Zealand wine. Especially interesting was the 1752 Gran Tradicion, a blend of 90% Petit Manseng and 10% Sauvignon Gris. Aromatic, this was a very herbal wine, with a nice depth of flavor and an intriguing finish. This should interest any wine lover seeking something different.

The inexpensive 2011 Tannat Reserva ($12.99) was elegant and delicious, delivering plenty of flavor and complexity for this low price point. An excellent introduction to Tannat. The 2007 Ysem ($20) is a blend of Tannat from their north and south vineyards, and is also elegant and delicious, with a bit more complexity and stronger fruit flavors than the Reserva. A step up for only a small amount of money. The 2009 Amat Single Vineyard Tannat ($30), from the Cerro Chapeau region, is aged in French and US oak for 18-24 months. With even greater complexity, and moderate tannins, this is a compelling wine, showing more of the potential of Tannat, without drowning you in tannins. This is a Tannat to impress your fellow wine lovers and is highly recommended.

Bouza Bodega Boutique
A family owned winery, they own two vineyards, totaling 25 hectares, one in the region of Las Violetas and other at Mellilla. They grow Albariño, Chardonnay, Merlot, Tempranillo and Tannat. The 2011 Bouza Albarino is bottled in a Riesling-style bottle, because the family liked its look. About 20% of this wine was matured in second-use oak and it also is aged on the lees for about three months. This wine had a bit of smokiness enhancing its deep, fruit flavors, and is a much different Albarino than the other wine I tried. The 2011 Bouza Tannat A6, aged in American oak for about 14 months, provided lots of spice, black fruit flavors and moderate tannins. There were  some interesting hints of other flavors on the finish, such as chocolate notes. The 2011 Bouza Monte Vide Eu is a blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Tannat, and presents a silky smooth wine with intense red and black fruit flavors, mild spice and some floral accents. An impressive blend.

Marichal Winery
This is a family owned winery, founded in 1938 and located in the Canelones region, with about 50 hectares of vineyards.

The 2013 Marichal Premium Variety Tannat ($14-$16) sees no oak and is a fruity and approachable Tannat, an excellent introduction for those new to this grape. Just like inexpensive Malbecs appealed to consumers, this is the type of Tannat which should do the same. A step up is the 2011 Marichal Reserve Collection Tannat ($18-$20),  which spends about 12 months in oak, delivering more complexity, a bit more tannins, and deeper black fruit flavors and spicy notes on the finish. Again, it remains an approachable wine, and still at a very good price. The 2011 Marichal Reserve Collection Pinot/Tannat ($18-$20) is a 70%/30% blend that spends 10 months in oak. It presents a fruity wine with a rustic backbone, mild tannins, and a pleasing finish. An interesting blend that is another very approachable and reasonably priced wine.

One of the top three wines of the tasting was the 2011 Marichael Grand Reserve Tannat "A" ($55-$60), a wine that is only made in good vintages. It spends about 18 months in oak, sees no fining or filtering, and only about 2300 bottles were produced. This was an alluring and seductive wine, with intriguing complexity, intense flavors, silky tannins, and a lengthy and satisfying finish. This wine shows the high-end potential of Tannat, how tannins can be made manageable, and the depth of flavors that can be drawn forth from this grape. Highly recommended.

Traversa Winery
Founded in 1956, this family owned winery is one of the largest in Uruguay. They produce a port-like wine, the 2008 Licor de Tannat ($22). With 18.5% ABV, this dark red colored wine is smooth and appealing, with a mild sweetness, good acidity and subtle berry and coffee notes.. An excellent wine to sip after dinner, or paired with a dessert.

Based on my sampling of all these Uruguayan wines, I will certainly be on the hunt to try even more. There is excellent diversity in Uruguay, and even the Tannat presents itself differently in many different ways. As their exports continue to grow, more and more people will realize the winders of Uruguay, and it could replicate the success of Argentina. If you get a chance to try a wine from Uruguay, don't hesitate to take it.

What are some of your favorite wines from Uruguay?

The Wines Of Uruguay (Part 2)

If you examine the location and climate of Uruguay, there is little question why it is an excellent location for vineyards. It is located on the same latitude as South Africa and Adelaide, Australia. The Uruguayan climate is very conducive, with a predominantly maritime climate and about 1000mm of rain annually. The high amount of rainfall is possibly the greatest climatic obstacle to the vineyards, but Uruguayans have learned how to adapt.

Their vineyards are planted with about 72% red varietals with Tannat, at 43%, leading the group. In a land where beef is king, it is easy to see why red wines are so popular, especially when most of their production is consumed within the country. The other main red grapes include 21% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 7% Cabernet Franc, You'll also find grapes such as Arinarnoa, Marselan, Tempranillo, Syrah, Zinfandel, Petit Verdot, Sangiovese, Pinot Noir, and Nebbiolo. A number of these grapes show the clear influence of Italian, Basque and Spanish immigrants.

As for white grapes, plantings include 27% Chardonnay, 22% Sauvignon Blanc, 8% Sémillon, and 5% Viognier. In addition, you'll find minor plantings of grapes like Albarino, Petit Manseng, and Roussanne. These vines seem to show more of a French influence though the addition of Albarino clearly comes from Spanish immigrants. Maybe Uruguay should explore more Spanish and Italian white grapes. There are at least several wineries with experimental vineyards, researching the viability of numerous different grapes.

The undisputed signature grape of Uruguay is Tannat, which is planted on about 7200 acres, and the country has more Tannat vineyards than the rest of the world combined. France probably has the second highest amount of Tannat vineyards though the grape has spread across the world, from Australia to South Africa. In the U.S., Tannat can be found in California, Maryland and Virginia, and in South America, Tannat is also found in Argentina, Bolivia, Peru and Brazil.

It is believed that Tannat may have originated around the 13th century, planted in the town of Madiran, though the first written mention of this grape wasn't until the 18th century. It's original home is likely in the Western Pyrenees of France, and now is primarily grown in France in the Madiran AOC. Sometime before 1870, it is believed that Basque immigrants brought Tannat vines to South America and they ended up in Uruguay. The vines adapted well to the climate of Uruguay and it quickly became considered the national grape. This reminds me of Malbec, how that French grape thrived in Argentina and became their signature grape. Tannat is not as well known as Malbec to the average wine consumer, but that could change in the future,

Tannat is easy to grow, ripens late, and has a thick skin which provides some resistance to powdery mildew and botrytis. It produces robust wines with strong tannins, dark fruit flavors and spicy notes. It is also considered to be one of the healthiest red wines as it contains 3 to 4 times more antioxidants than other red grapes, and also has a high concentration of resveratrol. As Malbec wines in Argentina are very different from Malbec wines from Cahors, France, so are Tannat wines in Uruguay very different from Tannat wines from Madiran. Tannat wines in Uruguay tend to be softer and less tannic than that in France. The Tannat grape has transformed over the last 140+ years in Uruguay, and can create compelling wines.

In Uruguay, Tannat wine is not monolithic, but actually is produced in a number of different styles, from soft & fruity to big & bold. You'll find inexpensive, easy-drinking wines as well as high-end, terroir driven Tannats. Though there are plenty of single varietal Tannat wines, you will also find it blended with a number of other grapes, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Zinfandel, Syrah and Viognier. These blends often help to tame the strong tannins of the Tannat, making the wines more approachable.

Though grapes are grown throughout much of Uruguay, they are concentrated in four regions: Canelones, Montevideo, Colonia, and Maldonado. Canelones, which has 60% of Uruguay's vineyards, is known for its clay-rich calcareous soils, while Montevideo is more known for the clay in its soil. Colonia possesses stony alluvial soils while Maldonado has soils rich with decomposed volcanic rock. What is most important to understand is that there is a diversity of soils, over 95 different types, within Uruguay, providing numerous different terroirs.

It is said that the wines of Uruguay combine European tradition with New World technology, and are usually well balanced. As most of the wineries are small, with few large companies, they are mostly artisan operations. There are also a fair number of female wine makers in the country. As exports continue to increase, you'll be hearing more and more about Uruguayan wines, and based on my recent tasting of their wines, you'll want to drink these wines.

To Be Continued...

The Wines Of Uruguay (Part 1)

It's a South American country which imported a French grape in the 19th century and since then has made it its own, becoming the signature varietal of that country. It is also a country which possesses a strong wine culture, and consumes most of the wine it produces. It is a country where beef is king, so red wines dominate. It is a country to which many Italian and Spanish immigrants came, bringing their wine making knowledge and traditions with them. It is a country where terroir is becoming more and more important as research, study and experimentation expand. It is a country where the altitude of their vineyards is important.

What country am I referring to in this description? You'll probably first think about Argentina, and all of it firs that country. However, it also fits a second South American country, Uruguay, and I think you'll be hearing more and more about this country in the near future. Located in the southeasterm region of South America, Uruguay (whose name means "land of the painted birds") possesses a pristine environment, with exceptionally pure water and about 410 miles of coastline, Approximately 82% of their land is dedicated to agriculture, the highest percentage of any country in the world. The more you learn about this intriguing country, the more you will be drawn to it, and want to travel there.

Until recently, I'd only tasted a handful of wines from Uruguay, and all were Tannat. Uruguay though has been on my radar this past year for a couple other matters, Estuario del Plata Caviar and Del Terruño Beef.  Because of the caviar and grass-fed beef, I've studied a bit about Uruguay, a small country surrounded by Argentina, Brazil and the Atlantic Ocean,  It has a population of about 3.4 million people, which is less than the population of Greater Boston.

There are also approximately 12 million cattle in the country, nearly 4 for each person. Uruguay is the #1 global consumer of beef, about 132 pounds of beef per capita, having recently dethroned Argentina which currently consumes about 129 pounds per capita. In comparison, U.S. beef consumption is only about 58 pounds, less than half what Uruguayans consume. Beef is Uruguay's primary export and with all the red meat they consume, it is no surprise that they love to drink red wine.

Recently, I attended the Wines of Uruguay 2nd Annual U.S. Trade Tour, where 16 wineries from Uruguay poured samples of their wines, a total of over 80 wines. There was also a seminar, presented by wine educator and speaker Gilles de Chambure, MS. on the differences of wines, especially Tannat, from the four major wine regions in Uruguay. This was a fascinating and educational event, enlightening me on the diversity of the wines of Uruguay. Uruguay is more than just Tannat, and even Tannat possesses its own diversity.

The more I learned about Uruguay, the more I saw its similarities to Argentina, though Uruguay's wine industry seems to be about ten years behind. We've seen the explosion in popularity of Malbec from Argentina during the last ten years, and maybe Tannat can have that same success. I've seen the potential of Tannat, though its future is still indeterminate. The wines of Uruguay are worthy of success and it might become one of the hot new wine regions. As we ponder its future, let us first take a look at its past.

As the conquistadors explored South America, it is thought that the Portuguese may have been the first Europeans to reach the region of Uruguay around 1512 though Spaniards traveled to the area around 1515. Both encountered fierce opposition from the Charrúa, an indigenous, semi-nomadic people and they also learned, to their dismay, that there was no gold or silver to be found in the region. Battles against the Charrúa continued as both Portugal and Spain decided they would still try to eventually colonize the area.

By 1603, though they didn't yet possess a permanent settlement, the Spanish introduced cattle, finding a verdant land which they thought would be conducive to such ranches. Finally, in 1624, they established their first permanent settlement at Soriano on the Río Negro. During this period, Jesuit missionaries also created a number of colonies in the valley of the Rio Paraguay. The Portuguese eventually decided to battle the Spaniards for the region, and thus, around 1670, they constricted a fort at Nova Colonia do Sacramento. The battles for control of this region would continue for more than 150 years,

Though it is likely that the Jesuit missionaries made their own wine in the 17th century, the first known mention of Uruguayan wines was not until 1776. This written reference noted that Spanish explorers brought vines from the Canary Islands to Uruguay. Not much seemed to happen with these vineyards for the next fifty years, as battles took prominence, with Portugal, Spain, Britain and Brazil all seeking to claim the area of Uruguay, The indigenous Charrúa became mostly casualties, and were largely wiped out in the massacre at Salsipuedes in 1831. Out of all these battles, Uruguay finally acquired its own independence in 1828.

With independence came an increased interest in vineyard plantings, though wine making didn't make its mark until the 1870s. Pascal Harriague (1819-1894) is said to be the Uruguayan "father of commercial winegrowing." Pascal immigrated from the French Basque region and eventually purchased an estate, La Caballada, in Salto, a town on the Rio Uruguay and it developed into a 200-hectare vineyard. In about 1870, he planted Tannat, a French grape from the Pyrenees, and its popularity soared. By 1877, it was being considered the national grape of Uruguay, and in honor of Pascal, Tannat became commonly referred to as Harriague.

Another important person in the history of wine in Uruguay is Francisco Vidiella, a former gardener from Catalonia. In 1874, he  established a vineyard and winery at Colón, planting Folle Noire and Gamay Blanc, both imported from France. Because of his contributions, Folle Noire became commonly referred to as Vidiella. It seems Uruguayans like to rename grapes after important countrymen..

Many other grapes were introduced to Uruguay during this time though it wouldn't be until 1903 that the first wine laws would be enacted.  Much of the wine produced at this time was for local consumption and it would not be until the 1980s that there was a major push to increase the quality of Uruguayan wine, as well as rules concerning labeling. In 1987, the National Institute for Vitiviniculture (INAVI), was established, and assisted in the creation of two levels of classification for wine: Vinos de Calidad Preferente (VCP) and Vino Común (VC).

VCP wines must meet a number of quality standards, such as being made from vinifera grapes and sold in 750ml bottles. The wines must be analyzed and approved by INAVI. If they fail to meet these standards, then the wines must be labeled as VC. If a grape variety is referenced on a label, the wine must contain at least 85% of that grape. In addition, if a geographical region is mentioned, all of the grapes must come from that region.

What is the current state of the Uruguayan wine industry?

There are approximately 200 wineries, with about half producing less than 100,000 bottles. Most of the wineries are small, family-owned operations and there are very few large companies. Uruguay has about 22,250 acres under vine, making it about half the size of Napa Valley. Total annual production is about 10 million cases and only 5% is exported, though their exports have tripled during the past five years. Their largest market is Brazil, which imports about three times as much Uruguayan wine as the U.S. As exports continue to grow, Uruguayan wines will start showing up in more and more American wine shops.

To Be Continued...