Ten Reasons To Drink Croatian Wine (Updated)

"The wines of Croatia...are very good and justly prized."
--The Evening Sun (MD), August 19, 1965

Wine is integral to the culture of Croatia, and they consume much of what they produce, exporting only about 6% of their total production. In addition, they import about four times as much wine as they export, as they obviously desire even more wine to drink. Indicative of their great love for wine, Croatians drink about 22 liters of wine per capita, making them the third largest consumer in the world.

The history of wine in the region of Croatia extends back about 2500 years, even before the time of the ancient Greeks colonists, but its modern wine industry is relatively young, still recovering from when they achieved their independence from Yugoslavia in 1995. The Croatian wine industry has accomplished much in the past approximately 25 years, and they are currently producing plenty of excellent wines, and have much potential. Although Croatia has become a hugely popular tourist destination, its wines still need much more recognition around the world.

Croatian wines, primarily Dalmatian wines, were first exported to the U.S. over 140 years ago. Currently, based on some of the latest statistics I have seen, Croatian wine exports to the U.S. are small, generally under 10,000 cases annually, but that is slowly changing. Thus, it's likely difficult for many people to find Croatian wines at their local wine store, but you should ask them to carry some. 

There are some positive changes that have been occurring. In the Boston area, we're fortunate to have Croatian Premium Wine Imports (CPWI), a company which in the last several years has been bringing numerous Croatian wines to local wine shops and restaurants. There are over 80 Croatian wines available on their website and they also ship to most states across the U.S. Thus, even if your local shop doesn't carry Croatian wine, you can still acquire their wines from CPWI. There are also a couple smaller U.S. importers of Croatian wine. 

Prior to my first journey to the Republic of Croatia, to the region of Dalmatia, in September 2019, I had little familiarity with Croatian wines, having previously tasted only a couple, though I enjoyed those I did. During my visit, I had the opportunity to taste close to 150 Croatian wines, and I found many reasons to enjoy these fascinating, diverse and delicious wines. After that trip, I continued to taste other Croatian wines as well. 

In May/June 2022, I made my second visit to Croatia, exploring Dalmatia, Slavonia and Istria, touring 28 wineries and tasting about 350 wines, as well as some Croatian spirits and liqueurs. Overall, I've now tasted approximately 600 different Croatian wines, so I have a very good foundation for understanding these wines. It's clear to me that all wine lovers, no matter what their preferences, will find something to love in Croatian wines.

Let me provide you a list of Ten Reasons (actually Eleven) why you should experience and drink Croatian wines, why you should seek out these compelling wines. I often encourage people to be adventurous with their palates and I'm doing so again, asking you to sample Croatian wines, to give them a chance. Once you taste them, I strongly suspect you'll understand why I find them to be so compelling and you will become a convert as well.

In addition, if you desire more information about Croatia and their wines, if you want specific wine reviews, check out my compilation page, All About Croatia. That page has links to over 80 articles I've written about Croatia, covering wine to travel, food to history. And if you have any specific questions about Croatian wines, feel free to email or message me. 

Now, onto the Ten Reasons To Drink Croatian Wine.....

First, Croatian wine has a lengthy and fascinating history.
Wine making in Croatia extends back at least 2,500 years, prior to even Greek colonization, and wine was an integral element of ancient Croatian civilization. Agatharchides of Cnidus, a Greek historian and geographer from the 2nd century BC, claimed that the best wine in the world was from Vis, a Croatian island in the Adriatic Sea that had been settled by the Greeks. The Stari Grad Plain, on the island of Hvar, was colonized by Greeks during the 4th century B.C. Vineyards have been continuously planted here for over 2400 consecutive years and it's now a UNESCO World Heritage site. Ancient Romans contributed significantly to wine production in Croatia. 

Over the centuries, Croatia has also been invaded numerous times, by various conquering nations, yet they have somehow always found a way to continue their traditions of viniculture. In addition, some of the 130 or so indigenous grapes of Croatia may have even been around since the days of ancient Greece. Thus, each sip of Croatian wine brings with it a sense of history, a connection to the ancient past. Their modern wine industry may be young, but its roots extend back over two millennia.

Second, Croatia has many unique, indigenous grapes.
There are over 130 indigenous grapes in Croatia, though only about 40 are used regularly on a commercial basis. White grapes such as Bogdanuša, Debit, Graševina, Grk, Malvazija Istarska, Malvasia Dubrovačk, Maraština, Pošip, and Vugava. Red grapes like Babić, Dobričić, Plavac Mali, Teran, and Tribidag. They present unique flavors and aromas, though commonly offering some familiarity. Different regions showcase different grapes, such as Dalmatia (the home of Plavac Mali and Pošip), Slavonia (where Graševina dominates), and Istria (the home of Malvazija Istarska and Teran). 

I've had the opportunity to taste many of their indigenous grapes, and have been impressed. Any wine lover seeking to broaden their palate, to experience something new, should seek out such unusual grapes which are often found only in Croatian wines. You never know when you might find a new favorite grape. I love exploring unusual grapes and Croatian wines allow me to further enhance my experiences. 

Third, Croatian grows international grapes as well.

Besides their native grapes, Croatia grows a wide variety of other grapes as well, including the most popular international grapes (from Cabernet Sauvignon to Chardonnay). Many regions grow these international grapes to appeal to a certain consumer segment who prefers to drink only what they know. Although I prefer Croatian wines produced from native grapes, I found numerous examples of excellent wines made from non-native grapes, especially Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and Riesling. 

In addition, in Croatia you can find some less common grapes from Italy, Austria, and elsewhere. For example, in Slavonia, Blaufränkisch is known as Frankovka, and produces delicious Rosé and Red wines. At Pink Day, a large Rosé tasting event, The Frankovka Rosé really impressed me. You can also find Austrian grapes in Croatia such as Rotgipfler (known as Zelenac) and Roter Veltliner. You can even find Italian Nebbiolo in Croatia! A number of winemakers have been experimenting with a variety of grapes from other countries, seeking which ones perform best in Croatian soil.

Fourth, you're probably already familiar with one important Croatian grape.
In Croatia, where the grape originated, it's known as Crljenak Kaštelanski, Pribidrag, and Tribidag. However, the grape has traveled from its place of origin, and in Italy it became known as Primitivo while in California it became known as Zinfandel. Yes, Zinfandel which is often seen as an "All American" grape, actually originated in Croatia!

It wasn't until 2001 that DNA testing confirmed these facts, though many had long suspected a Croatian connection. Within Croatia, Tribidag, which derives from Greek words meaning "early ripening," was first mentioned as early as the 15th century. Tribidag has been seeing a renewed renaissance within Croatia, especially in Dalmatia, and more and more wineries are starting to produce wines from this grape. Wouldn't you love to try a wine made from the original "Zinfandel?"

Fifth, Croatian wines are diverse.
Croatian wineries produce a myriad of different types of wines, including Sparkling, White, Skin-Contact Whites, Rosé, Red, Amphora, Amarone-Style, Dessert wines and more. These wines come in a wide variety of flavor profiles and styles so there is something available to appeal to any personal preference. You'll find plenty of easy drinking wines as well as more serious and complex wines, and so much more between these two. You'll also find some ultra-geeky and experimental wines, which will tantalize your mind and palate. 

In addition, there are a number of different terroirs in Croatia which further leads to the diversity in their wines. I had the opportunity to sample so many of these different styles of wine, and they were comparable in quality to wines from all over the world. For example, some of their Sparkling Wines will remind you of Champagne while some of their Amber wines are as good as any found in Georgia or elsewhere. Croatian wines are multi-dimensional and there is much to discover in that multitude. No matter what kind of wine you enjoy, you'll find a Croatian wine that will satisfy you and might even become a new favorite.  

Sixth, Croatian wines can age well.

Most wine, from anywhere in the world, is not produced to be aged, and most consumers drink their wine within days of its purchase. However, some wines can age quite well, sitting in your cellar for years, slowly evolving over time. That aging potential is one of the reasons that certain grapes, like Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Nebbiolo, are so revered. Such wines evolve over time, acquiring different aromas and flavors from when they are first bottled. It can be an amazing experience to taste a wine at different aspects in its evolution, over the course of a number of years.  

In Croatia, some of their native grapes possess that potential as well, such as red grapes like Plavac Mali, Teran, Tribidag, and Babić, and white grapes like Graševina, Malvazija Istarska, and Pošip. I've tasted stellar examples of these wines, including some older vintages, which were created to be age-worthy. Some wineries had wines in their cellar that were produced in the 1940s, and which were still drinkable. Croatia can make serious, age-worthy wines which will impress. 

Seventh, Croatian wines are made for food.
As Croatian wine is such an integral aspect of their culture, it is obviously a natural pairing for food, possessing a versatility that extends into many cuisines. Croatians commonly drink wine with food so it is produced specifically to be accompanied by food. At basically every wine tasting I went to in Croatia, food was offered with the wine. If you purchase a Croatian wine, you can be almost assured that it will pair well with some type of food. Dependent on the type of food, there is also probably a type of Croatian wine which will work well with that dish, from seafood to steak, pasta to chicken. 

For example, you could enjoy an easy drinking Plavac Mali or Teran with a burger or pizza, or a more powerful Plavac Mali or Teran with a ribeye steak. You could enjoy a Pošip or Graševina, with raw oysters or fried haddock. Croatian cuisine is diverse, from pasta and truffles in Istria to fresh seafood in Dalmatia, and so is their need for diverse wines to accompany their different foods. The wines of each region pair wonderfully with the local cuisine. 

Eighth, buying Croatian wines improves lives. 
As I've written previously, it can be important to be a Wine Activist. Peter Weltman, a sommelier and writer in San Francisco, summed it up well by writing, "With our wine purchases, I believe, we can help advance regional peace, provide support for farmers in war-torn regions, have a voice in geopolitics, and aid in economic recoveries." In addition, he stated, "Wine transcends borders and bridges cultures, and it can be used to improve lives if we make the right purchases." 

It's only been about 25 years since Croatia prevailed in a terrible war, and attained its independence. Its young wine industry certainly needs support, as does the entire country, and buying Croatian wines is one way to help them. It's probably not something you normally think about when buying a bottle of wine. but maybe you should consider it more often. Buy Croatian wine, give your support to Croatia and drink some excellent wine. Everyone wins.

Ninth, nearly everyone will enjoy Croatian wines.
There is no reason why anyone couldn't find a Croatian wine that they enjoy. Many of their wines are often easy drinking, absent of strange and off-putting flavors. They will seem familiar in some respects, with just enough pleasant differences to make them intriguing. The main reason Croatian wines don't sell as well as they should is due to lack of availability and unfamiliarity. Most consumers, and many wine shop owners, know little about Croatian wines so they gravitate instead to what they already know. That can be overcome with greater education and more tastings. People need to be shown they are missing out on Croatian wines.

Tenth, and most importantly, Croatian wines are delicious.
It's a simple thought but sometimes gets forgotten amidst everything else. In the end, the most significant aspect of wine is that it tastes good. No matter what else a wine has going for it, if it does not taste good then it has failed. I have tasted many well-produced Croatian wines, of all types, and at the root of it all, they are delicious. I may appreciate Croatian wines for many different reasons, but first and foremost, taste remains the most compelling reason to drink Croatian wines. No matter what your level of wine knowledge, I think we can all agree that first and foremost, a wine needs to taste good. On that level, Croatian wines deliver.

And here's a bonus reason to embrace Croatian wine! 

Eleventh, Croatian wines are also used to make intriguing spirits and liqueurs.
Croatian has a lengthy history of Rakija (Croatian brandy) production, which is made from a wide variety of different wines, fruits, herbs, and botanicals. Home production used to be very common, and some Croatians still make their own at home. When a guest comes to a Croatia home, it's a tradition to offer them Rakija. Rakija can be delicious, and the wide variety of different flavors make it a versatile product as well. 

There are a number of other intriguing wine-based drinks in Croatia. For example, Bermet is an interesting and tasty aromatized wine, flavored with wormwood and other ingredients. It is reminiscent in some ways to Vermouth. but is its own special alcohol. Istrian Epulon is another wine and wormwood flavored liqueur, while Istrian Teranino is a liqueur made from Teran wine. All of these are even harder to find in the U.S. rather than Croatian wine, but are well worth seeking out.

So, are you convinced to give Croatian wines a try? I hope so. However, if not, why not?

(Note: This is a revised and expanded version, based on additional Croatian wine experiences, of a prior article.)

Graševina: A Croatian Grape You Should Know

Within Croatia, the most planted varietal is Graševina, estimated at 20%-25% of all plantings. During my two-week tour of Croatia, and primarily in the Slavonia region, I tasted numerous Graševina wines, including sparkling wines, still white wines, amber wines, and dessert wines. It's a versatile grape which produces many simple, easy drinking wines, but which also can produce impressive, high quality wines as well. 

It seems like the Croatian wine industry is still in the early stages of realizing the full potential of this grape. And much of the the rest of the world still lacks an understanding of the delights of Croatian Graševina. My own first experience with this grape, back in 2009, was an example from Austria, in a blend of a dessert wine. I wouldn't taste another example of this grape until my 2019 trip to Croatia. However, it wasn't until my 2022 Croatian trip that I tasted numerous examples of Graševina wine, acquiring a true appreciation for it. 

Graševina is known by an assortment of others names, and its best known name, especially in Germany and Austria, is Welschriesling. A few of its other synonyms include Olascs Rizling in Hungary, Riesling Italico in Italy, and Laški Rizling in Slovenia. Interestingly, despite its name, the grape has actually no connection to the Riesling grape. "Welsch" means "foreigner," so it seems likely that the grape didn't originate in Germany or Austria. 

The origins of Graševina are uncertain, with a few different regions being offered as possible sources, such as northern Italy or even the Champagne region of France.  Famed wine writer Jancis Robinson believes it likely came from Croatia or the Danube region. So, it is possible that Graševina is an indigenous Croatian grape. Whatever its origins, Graševina has been firmly embraced by Croatian winemakers, and they are showing its vast potential. 

Within Croatia, the grape was previously known as Grašica, which means "green peas," referring to the appearance of the grapes at a certain point during their growth cycle. Its current name, Graševina, was due to the work of Bogoslav Šulek, a famous Croatian linguist and lexicographer. Croatia currently recognizes 4 clones of Graševina, each recommended for specific soils.

Graševina is a late harvesting grape with a green-yellow color and it's also high-yielding, although some wineries harvest far less per hectare, seeking quality over quantity. There are some older vineyards in Slavonia, with Graševina vines of over 30 years old, these older grapes often showing great concentration and elegance.

Its flavor profile often contains floral elements, and flavors of green apple, peach, citrus, and even almonds. Based on its terroir, some Graševina may also showcase a mineral aspect. Its high acidity can produce some excellent Sparkling Wines too. The profile of Graševina wines also depends on the production methods, and numerous wineries have been experimenting with Graševina to produce an even wider variety of profiles. For example, the grape might be left on the lees for a longer time, or aged in Slavonian oak, or even Acacia barrels. 

Graševina can age well too, and as I mentioned previously, Vina Belje has over 60 different vintages of Graševina in their cellars. The older examples of Graševina that I tasted were generally delicious, with lots of complexity, and definitely evidence of how well this grape can age. Overall, I found many impressive and different expressions of Graševina. 

As for food pairings, it was often suggested that Graševina pairs well with seafood, cured meats and cheeses. Its high acidity definitely makes it a better food pairing, and I also believe it would pair well with other lighter dishes, such as chicken. However, much also depends on the specific style of Graševina, where some of the wines might even pair well with heartier dishes, from pork to beef. Obviously, the sweeter styles, such as Late Harvest Graševina, would work well with a variety of desserts. And there's plenty of Graševina wines which can simply be enjoyed on their own. 

There was a Graševina seminar in Osijek during our visit, including a seminar: "Grasevina: Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow." There were about 60 people in the seminar, but as it was all in Croatian, there was little I could understand. However, I did get a brief opportunity to speak with Professor Edi Maletic, Head of the Department of Viticulture and Enology at the University of Zagreb. He noted that Graševina is a versatile grape, that is largely unknown to most Americans. A major point of the seminar was that Graševina needs more marketing and publicity, and that the wineries and associations need to take the primary responsibility for doing so. It certainly is the case that many Americans have little exposure to Graševina. 

There was also a small tasting event that accompanied the seminar and I had a short time to sample more examples of Graševina, and my four favorites are below. 

The 2019 Iločki Podrumi Graševina, with a 13% ABV, was an interesting wine, with greater depth, more subdued fruit flavors, and some honey notes. A lengthy finish, good acidity, and overall delicious.

The 2020 Apolitico Graševina, with a 13% ABV, is from a mix of Graševina grapes from young and older vineyards, where the harvest is about half the usual amount. It sees no oak, and I found it to be fresh and crisp, with notes of apples and pear, with a savory aspect and a nice depth to it. Again, another very delicious wine.

The 2020 Pinkert Grasevina, with a 13% ABV, was fresh, dry and crisp, with rich flavors of apple, some floral aspects, and a hint of honey, especially on the finish. Easy drinking but far from simple. 

The 2019 Pinkert Single Barrel Graševina, with a 13% ABV,  was impressive. Pure and clean flavors of apples, pear and mild floral notes. Fresh, crisp, complex and elegant, it was absolutely delicious, and would be perfect for seafood. 

You can search my Croatian posts for many more reviews of a variety of Graševina wines. Continued research and experimentation are ongoing with this grape, and its quality will continue to improve over time. For now, I strongly recommend you seek out Graševina wines and learn more about this delicious and fascinating grape. You could even drink different Graševina wines over the course of a dinner, starting with a Sparkling Graševina, moving onto some still Graševina as well as an amber Graševina, and then ending with a Graševina dessert wine. 

Celebrate International Pošip Day: Bring On The Oysters!

Today, May 21, is the second annual International Pošip Day, a day chosen to highlight and showcase this intriguing and compelling white wine grape, indigenous to Croatia. As it's relatively unknown to many people, very much a niche wine outside of Croatia, then Pošip is worthy of a holiday intended to spread wider recognition of this grape. 

This holiday was created by the Croatian Wine Alliance, a public-private collaboration led by Croatian Premium Wine Imports, Inc., and including organizations around the globe united in raising awareness of premium Croatian wines, including the Wines of Croatia (an association within the Croatian Chamber of Commerce), Vino Dalmacije, (an association of winemakers in Dalmatia), some Croatian wineries, as well as many importers and distributors around the world.

As I'm currently in Croatia, I'll definitely be celebrating this holiday, drinking plenty of Pošip (hopefully paired with oysters), and likely learning even more about this grape. For those unfamiliar with Pošip, let me provide you some history, background and information, so you can better celebrate and appreciate the white wines made from this indigenous grape.

In New England, we love our seafood and Croatian white wine, made from the indigenous Pošip Bijeli grape (more commonly known as simply Pošip) make an excellent pairing with everything from oysters to haddock, shrimp to crab. Pošip is primarily produced in the Dalmatian region of Croatia, where seafood is prominent, and I can personally attest to how well it pairs with a variety of seafoods.

The Pošip grape likely originated on the Croatian island of Korčula, which derives its name from an ancient Greek colony named Melaina Korkyra (Black Corfu). As an aside, it’s also claimed that Korčula was the birthplace of Marco Polo. The origin of the term Pošip is a bit ambiguous, with two main theories. The first is based on the elongated shape of the grape while the other theory is that the grapes once grew closely near pomegranate trees, known as šipak.

Though some believed that Pošip was brought to Korčula by ancient Greeks, DNA analysis has shown that Pošip was born from two other grapes, Bratkovina Bijela and Zlatarska Bistrica, both which are known to be indigenous to Korčula. So, it’s clear Pošip had to have been born on Korčula, and not transported by the Greeks or any other travelers.

For a lengthy time, Pošip remained relatively unknown and wasn’t intentionally grown in the vineyards on Korčula. However, during the early 1880s, a Korčula farmer, Marin Tomašić (nicknamed Caparin), from the village of Smokvica, found a wild grapevine growing in the forest, one which had resisted the harms of phylloxera. Marin was intrigued and planted some of it in his own vineyard, eventually becoming enamored with the grape, which was Pošip. He shared his find with others, who also planted it, spreading Pošip across the island.

In 1967, Korčula became a legally protected appellation, making Pošip the first Croatian white wine to be part of such an appellation. Pošip eventually spread throughout the Dalmatian region, becoming one of the most popular white grapes in this region. In 2020, it was the ninth most planted grape in Croatia and you can find Pošip wines on most Dalmatian restaurant wine lists.  

Pošip is an early ripening grape, versatile and expressive of its terroir. You can find a wide variety of expressions, including still wines, sparkling wines and dessert wines. Some Pošip wines are aged only in stainless steel while others receive some oak aging. Each winery puts their own spin on this indigenous grape and that makes these wines even more interesting. 

In general, Pošip wines can range from medium to full-bodied, possessing flavors of citrus to tropical fruits, and commonly have fresh acidity. They are often aromatic and may also have mineral notes, a taste of almonds, and might even have a high alcohol content, over 14% ABV. Much will depend on the terroir of the vineyard and winemaking style, which means you should be able to find a Pošip wine which caters to your personal preferences.

It’s definitely a fine pairing with seafood, from shellfish to grilled white fish, though it would also work with light chicken and similar dishes. Or simply enjoy it on its own, while sitting outside on a fine summer day. Share it with family and friends, exposing them to a more unique wine.

So, buy yourself a bottle of Pošip and revel in its delights. 

Rant: Respect Hybrid Grapes

I feel sorry for grapes like Baco Noir, Frontenac Noir, Marechal Foch, Seyval Blanc and others. Though they are used to make wine, with a number of excellent examples, they often get very little respect because of their parentage. These grapes are known as hybrids, not pure vitis vinifera like Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay. 

Because they are not "pure," too many people look down upon them, sometimes even shunning them. They don't give those wines a chance, rejecting them without even tasting them. Shouldn't these hybrid grapes be judged by the quality of their wine rather than the identity of their parents?

Vitis vinifera is the common grape vine and the one most used for making wine. All of the major grapes of which you are familiar are likely these types of grapes, from Pinot Noir to Syrah, from Sauvignon Blanc to Pinot Blanc. Hybrids are a cross of two or more Vitis species, such as vitis vinifera and vitis labrusca. They are often created produce a hardier grape, especially for harsher, colder northern climates. Because they are not pure vitis vinifera, some people turn up their noses at these hybrids, refusing to believe they can produce quality wine. 

Drop that pretentiousness and judge these wines by their taste. 

This issue has arisen within me again as I start to drink the wines I recently purchased in Nova Scotia. Many of those wines were made from hybrid grapes, but they are still worthy of respect. I've previously enjoyed other Nova Scotian wines, made from hybrids, and they have been delicious, and definitely wines I'd recommend. I'm looking forward to tasting these new wines, seeing what the hybrid grapes bring to the bottle. 

Sure there are poor quality wines made from hybrids, but there are plenty of poor quality wines made from vitis vinifera too. Yet there are excellent wines made from these hybrids as well, and a wine lover would be hard pressed to guess they were hybrids simply from tasting the wine. You should approach a wine without prejudices or biases, willing to taste the wine and let it stand on its own. If you do so, you will probably find plenty of delicious wines that you might never have experienced otherwise.

It has gotten to the point that some fans of hybrid grapes don't even want to use the term "hybrid," to avoid the prejudices that the term can spawn. I believe we should embrace the term, and don't try to hide what is being used. Instead, we need to fight the prejudice by getting these people to taste these wines, to understand the quality that can be found within them.

So get over yourself and stop prejudging hybrids. Drink the wine before making any judgments. Judge a wine on its taste, not its parentage. 

Rant: What Happens When The Grape Day Is Over?

In the last few weeks, there have been celebrations for Sake Day (October 1) and Plavac Mali Day (September 21). Every month, there are similar days, holidays which are intended to promote a specific grape, wine or drink. I don't believe all such days are necessary as some grapes and wines are already very well known and popular. 

There are plenty of under-appreciated grapes, wines, and drinks such as Assyrtiko, Sherry and Baijiu, which benefit much more from their own special day rather than Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay. I would much rather see days celebrating the underdogs, helping them to gain recognition and get new fans. They need the publicity, to boost their sales. I want people to broaden their palates, and taste new grapes, wines and drinks.

However, what happens when the drink holiday is over? I'm been thinking about this question recently, curious as to the longer impact, if any, of the drink holiday. On the drink holiday, there are many participants, touting the positive qualities of the grape, wine or drink. There may be many reviews, historical articles, winery profiles, and more. However, days later, the grape, wine or drink falls back into relative obscurity. 

How much long-term impact does a drink holiday have? It's difficult to determine that impact as I don't believe anyone has done a study about that question. There is certainly lots of publicity on the day of the holiday, with plenty of social media mentions, but what happens the day after the drink holiday?

There is an old saying: Out of sight, out of mind. These drink holidays might convert a few people, convincing them to start buying the underdog drink. However, unless the recognition and promotion are ongoing, extending beyond a single day, people will tend to forget what they experienced weeks or months before. 

Wineries and regional organizations might unite for a drink holiday, but they also need to unite at other times as well, to reinforce the awareness of their grape, wine or drink which was promoted during the holiday. They shouldn't just do this once a year, as memory is fragile, and requires reinforcement. Maybe quarterly, these wineries and regional organizations could continue their united promotion, to ensure their grape, wine or drink doesn't end up in obscurity. 

The same applies to drink writers, who should be writing about these underdog drinks year round, and not just an article or two around the drink holiday. Why write dozens of articles about Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, which are already popular and well known, when you could be more unique, and write about more obscure grapes, wines and drinks. In addition, try to write more than an introductory article about these underdog drinks. Delve deeper into the topic, providing more extensive information to consumers, which might better perk their interest. 

Let drink holidays be a starting point, and not an end point. Let the promotion and discussion of the grape, wine or drink continue year round, so no one forgets about it. It will take more work but it's necessary to gain greater recognition for these wondrous underdogs. I do my part to promote underdog drinks, and I would like to see more writers doing so as well. 

Has any Drink holiday permanently changed your drinking habits? 

International Plavac Mali Day: Skaramuča Plavac Mali

Today is International Plavac Mali Day!

The Croatian Wine Alliance, a group of global teams promoting Croatian wines led by the US-based duo, Aroma Wine Co., and Croatian Premium Wine Imports, Inc., made September 21 to be International Plavac Mali Day. This collaboration is a public and private partnership among organizations from the US, Canada, Australia, Europe and Croatia – all dedicated to telling the many stories of this indigenous and predominant Croatian red variety. 

Plavac Mali is a descendant of Zinfandel (aka Tribidrag or Crljenak kaštelanski) creating a natural hybrid with another indigenous variety, Dobričić. Plavac Mali produces several styles of wines, from medium-bodied and easy-drinking, to elegant and robust wines. The aromas in Plavac mali are predominantly dark berries and Mediterranean herbs with expressive tannins, and mineral on the palate. Plavac Mali means ‘little blue’, referring to its appearance, small and dark blue berries.

Two years ago this month, I visited Croatia, and wrote numerous articles about my experiences in that beautiful and wondrous country. I learned much about Plavac Mali, having visited numerous vineyards and wineries, and tasted a diverse variety of the wines. That diversity is compelling, as you can enjoy fresh and light Plavac Mali wines, as well as heavier, more robust wines that will age very well. So, you can enjoy Plavac Mali with a wide assortment of foods, just dependent on which style you prefer. 

My article, Volarević Winery: Organic Rakija & The Complexity of Plavac Mali, provides more information about Plavac Mali, its origins, as well as the efforts to study and research this fascinating grape. In some respects, and despite the long history of Plavac Mali, there is still much to learn about this grape, and that that times, research and experimentation. As I said in that article, "This is a grape which can present greatness, which can compare well to other famed red grapes around the world."

Onto a couple Plavac Mali wines that I recently drank.

The family behind Vina Skaramuča family has growing vineyards on Pelješac Peninsula of Croatia for several generations. However, when Ivo Skaramuča, the vineyard only had a few hectares which has now grown to about 20 hectares. Most of their vineyards are in the Dingač region,  and they now  possess the largest vineyard in this region. In 1961, Dingač became the first protected wine region in Croatia and it is well known for its Plavac Mali wines. Today the winery is managed by Igor Skaramuča, Ivana and Branimir Anđelić. 

The 2017 Vina Skaramuča Plavac Premium ($16) is made from 100% Plavac Mali from vineyards in Pelješac and the Dingač. It was fermented in stainless steel, aged for 6 months in large 3000L barrels, aged for another 6 months in the bottle, and has a 13% ABV. This is a lighter, easier drinking Plavac Mali, with plenty of tasty red and black fruit flavors, good acidity, and some subtle spice notes. This is an everyday wine, perfect on its own or with everything from pizza to burgers, tacos to salmon. 

The 2016 Vina Skaramuča Plavac Mali Dingac ($24) is a different style of Plavac Mali, a bigger, bolder version. It is 100% Plavac Mali, all organically grown, and using natural yeasts. It is aged for 12 months in large 3000L barrels, aged for another 6 months in the bottle, and has a 14% ABV. This wine tends more to richer, black fruit flavors, like plum and black cherry, with an ample spicy element, strong tannins, and a touch of earthiness. A lengthy finish, nicely balanced, and quite tasty. This is a wine to pair with hearty dishes, from steak to stews. Or some wild boar. 

How did you celebrate International Plavac Mali wine Day?

2019 Ritoša Malvazija Istarska: Complex, Compelling & Croatian

June 25 was the first official celebration of National Croatian Wine Day, a day founded by Anna Micic Viducic to celebrate the compelling wines from this country. The date has special meaning for Croatia as it was also the 30th Anniversary of Croatia's declaration of independence from the Republic of Yugoslavia. 

In collaboration with Croatian Premium Wine Exports, a couple of online tasting events, for the media and the public, were held to celebrate this wine day. I attended both events, sampling several Croatian wines, some already familiar to me, including a couple Whites, a couple Rosés, and a Red. From Pošip to Plavac Mali, intriguing indigenous grapes. 

I've previously written numerous articles about Croatia, having traveled to the country and sampled many of their wines, along with plenty of delicious Croatian cuisine. It's a beautiful country, with friendly people, and their wines definitely are worthy of much more attention. Fortunately, a number of their wines are available in the U.S. due to the efforts of Croatian Premium Wine Exports.

For me, the stand-out of the online tastings for National Croatian Wine Day was the 2019 Ritoša Malvazija Istarska ($22), which captivated me from the first sip. 

During the media event, Ana Ritoša, winemaker at the Ritoša Winery, was present, discussing her winery and this wine. Ana's grandfather once grew a small amount of vines, making wine just for the family. In 2005, Vili Ritosa, Ana's father, purchased about three acres of land near the village of Radmani, in the municipality of Poreč, in the western side of Istria. It's located about 10 kilometers from the sea. 

As a brief aside, Istria is a Croatian region that has some Italian influences and which is well known for its truffles and olive oil. Plus, Istria is known for vampires! Who would have suspected that connection?

Vili's original plan was to establish a ranch, to raise animals and grow vegetables. However, he found the land had more stones than soil, and he felt he needed to revise his plans. As Ana was studying wine at school, Vili decided instead to establish a vineyard, planting grapes in 2006, and their first commercial harvest was in 2008. 

Their soil, typical of Western Istria, is a red clay with some limestone, and the clay is rich in iron. The vineyard grows five varieties, Malvazija Istriana, Teran, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Red & Yellow Muscat. The winery currently produces 10 different wines, and they might be the only Croatian winery that is "suitable for vegans" as they don't use any animal products at all in the wine making process. Annually, they produce about 24,000 liters of wine, and their first U.S. exports have been through Croatian Premium Wine Exports.  

The 2019 Ritoša Malvazija Istarska is made from 100% Malvazija Istarska, which is a very different grape from Italian Malvasia. It's a very common grape in the Istria region, the second most planted variety in Croatia after Grasevina, and has thought to have been grown in the area for centuries. The wine has a 13% ABV, and most Istrian wines have an ABV from 12.5%-13.5%. 

The wine was very aromatic, pleasant floral and spice notes, and my first sip brought a smile to my face. It was complex and compelling, with a wonderful melange of harmonious flavors. It was fresh and crisp, refreshing and satisfying with a moderately lengthy finish. On the palate, it was fruity (especially peach and pear) and floral, spicy and with a nice minerality. There was so much going on in this wine, and all of it was delicious. 

I could easily sip this on its own, relaxing outside on a warm summer day, but it would also be a fine accompaniment with seafood, light chicken dishes, and cheese. This is the type of wine that you should buy by the case, and I suspect all of your friends would enjoy this wine as much as you. Highly recommended!

Ten Reasons To Drink Croatian Wine

"The wines of Croatia...are very good and justly prized."
--The Evening Sun (MD), August 19, 1965

Wine is integral to the culture of Croatia, and they consume much of what they produce, exporting only about 6% of their total production. In addition, they import about four times as much wine as they export, as they obviously desire even more wine to drink. Indicative of their great love for wine, Croatians drink about 22 liters of wine per capita, making them the third largest consumer in the world.

The history of wine in the region of Croatia extends back about 2500 years, to at least the time of the ancient Greeks colonists, but its modern wine industry is relatively young, still recovering from when they achieved their independence from Yugoslavia. The Croatian wine industry has accomplished much in the last 25 years, and they are currently producing plenty of excellent wines, and have much potential. Although Croatia has become a hugely popular tourist destination, its wines still need much more recognition around the world.

Currently, Croatian wine exports to the U.S. are small, only about 7,200 cases annually, but that is slowly changing. Thus, it's likely difficult for you to find Croatian wines at your local wine store, but you should ask them to carry some. In the Boston area, we are fortunate to have Croatian Premium Wine Imports, a new company which is bringing more Croatian wines to local wine shops and restaurants. They have also been hosting a number of tasting events, where you can sample and experience Croatian wines. There are also other importers, such as Blue Danube Wine and Topochines, which have Croatian wines in their portfolios, both locally and in other states.

Prior to my journey to the Republic of Croatia in September 2019, I had little familiarity with Croatian wines, having previously tasted only a couple, though I did enjoy them. During my visit though, I had the opportunity to taste close to 150 Croatian wines, and I found many reasons to enjoy these fascinating, diverse and delicious wines. All wine lovers, no matter what your preferences, will find something to love in Croatian wines.

Let me provide you a list of Ten Reasons why you should experience Croatian wines, why you should seek out these compelling wines. I often encourage people to be adventurous with their palates and I'm doing so again, asking you to sample some Croatian wines, to give them a chance. Once you do taste them, I suspect you'll understand why they are so compelling.

First, Croatian wine has a lengthy and fascinating history.
Wine making in Croatia extends at least 2,500 years and wine was an integral element of ancient Croatian civilization. Agatharchides of Cnidus, a Greek historian and geographer from the 2nd century BC, claimed that the best wine in the world was from Vis, a Croatian island in the Adriatic Sea that had been settled by the Greeks. The Stari Grad Plain, on the island of Hvar, was colonized by Greeks during the 4th century B.C. Vineyards have been continuously planted here for over 2400 consecutive years and it's now a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Over the centuries, Croatia has been invaded numerous times, by various conquering nations, yet they have somehow always found a way to continue their traditions of viniculture. In addition, some of the 130 or so indigenous grapes of Croatia may have even been around since the days of ancient Greece. Thus, each sip of Croatian wine brings with it a sense of history, a connection to the ancient past. Their modern wine industry may be young, but its roots extend back over two millennia.

Second, Croatia has many unique, indigenous grapes.
There are over 130 indigenous grapes in Croatia, though only about 40 are used regularly on a commercial basis. White grapes such as Bogdanuša, Debit, Graševina, Grk, Malvazija Istarska, Malvasia Dubrovačk, Maraština, Pošip, and Vugava. Red grapes like Babić, Dobričić, Plavac Mali, Teran, and Tribidag. They present unique flavors and aromas, though still offering some familiarity. Any wine lover seeking to broaden their palate, to experience something new, should seek out such unusual grapes which may be found only in Croatian wines. You never known when you might find a new favorite grape. I love exploring unusual grapes and Croatian wines allow me to further enhance my experiences. Yes, they grow some international grapes too but why not pay attention to the unique, indigenous grapes that often cannot be found elsewhere.

Third, Plavac Mali is the King of the Reds.
The Plavac Mali grape is the most widely planted red grape in Croatia, though it's primarily found in the Dalmatia region. In a number of respects, it can be considered the signature red grape of Croatia, and it has brough some fame to the region. Plavac Mali was the first Croatian grape to have its own appellation, Dingač, located on the Pelješac peninsula, and it was established back in 1961. Plavac Mali grapes commonly have high sugar levels, which can lead to high alcohol levels, and they also often have high tannins as well. Although this seems like it would only make powerhouse wines, that is far from the case, and you'll find a wide variety of expressions in Plavac Mali wines.

Common flavors found within Plavac Mali wines includes blackberry, black cherry, plum, pepper, and spice, though sometimes you might also find herbal notes and earthiness. It produces wines that can age very well, and the best wines are complex, well-balanced, and have a deep depth of flavor. This is a grape which can present greatness, which can compare well to any other famed red grape from anywhere around the world.

Fourth, Pošip is the the King of the Whites.
The Pošip grape isn't the most widely planted white grape, but its importance, especially in coastal Croatia cannot be underestimated. This ancient grape is indigenous to the Croatian island of Korčula, and in 1967, Korčula became a legally protected appellation, making Pošip the first Croatian white wine to be part of such an appellation. Pošip has spread throughout the Dalmatian region, becoming one of the most common and popular white grapes in this region. It is an early ripening grape, versatile and expressive of its terroir. You can find a wide variety of expressions, from stainless steel to oaked, fresh & dry to sweet dessert wines.

In general, Pošip wines can range from medium to full-bodied, possessing flavors of citrus to tropical fruits, and commonly have fresh acidity. They may have mineral notes, a taste of almonds, and might also have a high alcohol content, over 14% ABV. Much will depend on the terroir and winemaking style. It pairs well with food, especially seafood, from shellfish to grilled white fish, though it also works with light chicken and similar dishes. In the Boston+ area, where seafood is important, Pošip wines have so much to offer.

Fifth, you're probably already familiar with one Croatian grape.
In Croatia, where the grape originated, it is known as Crljenak Kaštelanski, Pribidrag, and Tribidag. However, the grape has traveled around the world, and in Italy it's known as Primitivo while in California it's known as Zinfandel. Yes, Zinfandel which is often seen as an "All American" grape, actually originated in Croatia. It wasn't until 2001 that DNA testing confirmed these facts, though many had long suspected a Croatian connection. Within Croatia, Tribidag, which derives from Greek words meaning "early ripening," was first mentioned as early as the 15th century. Tribidag has been seeing a renewed renaissance within Croatia, and more and more wineries are starting to produce wines from this grape. Wouldn't you love to try a wine made from the original "Zinfandel?"

Sixth, Croatian wines are diverse.
Croatian wineries produce a myriad of different types of wines, including Sparkling, White, Skin-Contact Whites, Rosé, Red, Amphora, Sweet wines and more. These wines come in a wide variety of flavor profiles and styles so there is something available to appeal to any personal preference. You'll find plenty of easy drinking wines as well as some ultra-geeky ones, and lots between these two. In addition, there are a number of different terroirs in Croatia which further leads to the diversity in their wines. Croatian wines are multi-dimensional and there is much to discover in that multitude. No matter what kind of wine you enjoy, you'll find a Croatian wine that will satisfy you and might even become a new favorite. I found some impressive Sparkling wines, as well as intriguing Skin-contact wines. However, I found compelling wines in all the varied categories. Croatia has so much to offer.

Seventh, Croatian wines are made for food.
As Croatian wine is such an integral aspect of their culture, it is obviously a natural pairing for food, possessing a versatility that extends into many cuisines. Croatians commonly drink wine with food so it is produced specifically to be accompanied by food. If you purchase a Croatian wine, you can be almost assured that it will pair well with some type of food. Dependent on the type of food, there is also probably a type of Croatian wine which will work well with that dish, from seafood to steak, pasta to chicken. You could enjoy an easy drinking Plavac Mali with a burger or pizza, or a more powerful Plavac Mali with a ribeye steak. You could enjoy a Pošip with raw oysters or fried haddock. Croatian cuisine is diverse, from pasta and truffles in Istria to fresh seafood in Dalmatia, and so is their need for diverse wines to accompany their different foods.

Eighth, buying Croatian wines improves lives. 
As I've written previously, it can be important to be a Wine Activist. Peter Weltman, a sommelier and writer in San Francisco, summed it up well by writing, "With our wine purchases, I believe, we can help advance regional peace, provide support for farmers in war-torn regions, have a voice in geopolitics, and aid in economic recoveries." In addition, he stated, "Wine transcends borders and bridges cultures, and it can be used to improve lives if we make the right purchases." It's only been 25 years since Croatia prevailed in a terrible war, and attained its independence. Its young wine industry certainly needs support, as does the entire country, and buying Croatian wines is one way to help them. It's probably not something you normally think about when buying a bottle of wine. but maybe you should consider it. Support Croatia and drink some excellent wine. Everyone wins.

Ninth, nearly everyone will enjoy Croatian wines.
There is no reason why anyone couldn't find a Croatian wine that they enjoy. Many of their wines are often easy drinking, absent of strange and off-putting flavors. They will seem familiar in some respects, with just enough pleasant differences to make them intriguing. The main reason Croatian wines don't sell as well as they should is due to lack of availability and unfamiliarity. Most consumers, and many wine shop owners, know little about Croatian wines so they gravitate instead to what they already know. That can be overcome with greater education and more tastings. People need to be shown they are missing out on Croatian wines.

Tenth, and most importantly, Croatian wines are delicious.
It is a simple thought but sometimes gets forgotten amidst everything else. In the end, the most significant aspect of wine is that it tastes good. No matter what else a wine has going for it, if it does not taste good then it has failed. I have tasted many good Croatian wines, of all types, and at the root of it all, they are delicious. I may appreciate Croatian wines for many different reasons, but first and foremost, taste remains the most compelling reason to drink Croatian wines. No matter what your level of wine knowledge, I think we can all agree that first and foremost, a wine needs to taste good. On that level, Croatian wines deliver.

So, are you convinced to give Croatian wines a try? I hope so. However, if not, why not?

Volarević Winery: Organic Rakija & The Complexity of Plavac Mali

One of the highlights of my trip to Croatia was definitely the visit with the good people of Vinogradi Volarević, one of the K7 wineries in the Komarna region. A river boat ride, superb Rakija, scrumptious frog legs & eel, compelling wines, and a fascinating enologist. I was also impressed with their research and experimentation with the Plavac Mali grape, which could end up benefiting many other Croatian wineries.

For centuries, black and low wooden boats, commonly known as lađa or ladja, were used to traverse the waterways of the Neretva Valley. They were used for fishing as well as transporting people and cargo, and many locals owned a lađa. We boarded a converted boat, for a pleasant journey down one of the waterways. It was a beautiful sunny day, with a light breeze, and the waters, fed by springs, were crystal clear.

Eventually, the need for the lađa largely vanished, so many of these boats were abandoned and remained unused for years. More recently, there has been a renewed interest in these boats, more for pleasure rides, and there is even an annual Marathon lađa race, held in August, which has only been receiving growing interest.

Our host was Josip Volarević, owner and oenologist (pictured on the right side), and there were also two locals who provided traditional Croatian music as our boat slowly made its way down the river.

Here is a brief sample of some of that traditional Croatian music.

Aboard, we snacked on some Croatian prosciutto, cheese, and bread, and also enjoyed some Volarević Rakija. They produce seven types of Rakija, which are all organic, and we tasted three of them on the boat. My favorite of the three, which was also my favorite Rakija during my time in Croatia, was their Travarica. Travarica is a grape brandy which has been infused with numerous herbs, and everyone's recipe varies. It reminds me of a good Vermouth. The Volarević Travarica contains about 7-10 herbs, has a 40% ABV, and possesses a delicious and complex herbal taste. It was silky and warming, with a lengthy finish and a mild sweetness. I brought home some of this Rakija because I loved it so much.

The Volarević Visnjevac is a Cherry Rakija, with a 25% ABV, and possesses a pleasing sour cherry flavor, which was sweet but far from cloying. This would make a nice after-drink drink, maybe with dessert.

The Volarević Menta is a Wild Mint Rakija, with a 25% ABV, and possesses a strong minty flavor and plenty of sweetness. A nice digestive after dinner.

The Volarević family are relatively newcomers to the winery business, and initially, in 1976, they started the Prud Nursery business. named after the village where they originate. About ten years ago, after much hard work and growth, they became the largest nursery in Croatia, with about 50 hectares of fruit, vegetables and other plants/trees.

As the winery is situated next to several of the greenhouses, we had some time to tour the greenhouses, and it was an extensive operation, with an amazing diversity of fruits and veggies.

Their winery is currently open only for special guests, and Josip Volarević led us through a tasting of many of their wines, and then provided us a delicious, traditional and regional lunch. Though Josip's grandfather made a little bit of wine, it was more a minor hobby than anything else. With the Volarević Winery, Josip states that "we are creating a tradition" and they have chosen the new Komarna appellation to begin their history.

Josip always had a dream to become an oenologist, and with his family, which includes three brothers, they chose to enter the wine industry. Starting in 2005, they began to prepare land in Komarna for their vineyards, which entailed a lengthy and costly process of breaking up great sections of stone. It wasn't until 2008-2009, that they were finally able to plant vines, which now occupy about 12.5 hectares of their estate, the vast majority planted with Plavac Mali. And like all of the other Komarna wineries, their vineyards are certified organic. Their total estate is about 15 hectares, and they plan to construct a tasting room in the extra space. They originally worked out of a winery in Prud and created their new winery in 2016. Their wines bear the name Syrtis, which translates as Prud, their family's village.

The winery produces about 100,000 bottles annually, 50% which are Plavac Mali, and their wines are generally 100% varietal. They possess a variety of oak barrels, including French, American, Hungarian, and Croatian. Within their cellar, they generally only store older Plavac Mali, selling off most of their fresh wine. Plavac Mali is an important Croatian grape, and Josip is engaged in intense research and experimentation to understand this grape, especially considering little prior research has been done on this significant grape. So, let's take a bit of a deeper dive into what is known about Plavac Mali.

Although Plavac Mali is first mentioned back in document back to 1841, genetic investigations seems to indicate that it is a much older grape. The lack of previous documentation may be due, at least in part, because Plavac Mali has long been thought to be Tribidag, though DNA testing has revealed that it is actually a cross between the Tribidag and Dobričić grapes. The name Plavac Mali translates as "small blue," which refers to its small, blue, thick-skinned grapes.

Plavac Mali was the first Croatian grape to have its own appellation, Dingač, which was established in 1961. Dingač, located on the Pelješac peninsula, continues to be known as one of the best regions for Plavac Mali. The grape is also said to be the most widely planted red grape in Croatia, though it's primarily found in the Dalmatia region. It grows best in areas with lots of sunshine and heat, and minimal rain during the late spring and summer.

It's a late ripening grape, and when I visited Croatia in mid-September, many of the vineyards hadn't yet harvested their Plavac Mali, though would soon do so. I should note though that some wineries, which produce Rosé from Plavac Mali, have separate plots for those grapes and had already harvested them. Plavac Mali grapes commonly have high sugar levels, which can lead to high alcohol levels, and they also often have high tannins as well. Although this seems like it would only make powerhouse wines, that is far from the case, and I was impressed with the wide variety of expressions I found in the various Plavac Mali wines I tasted during my time in Croatia.

Common flavors found within Plavac Mali wines includes blackberry, black cherry, plum, pepper, and spice, though sometimes you might also find herbal notes and earthiness. It produces wines that can age very well, and often is aged, at least for a short time, in oak. In Croatia, I tasted fresh and light Plavac Mali, at 13% ABV, but also bigger, bolder Plavac Mali at 16% ABV, and even a few at 18% ABV! However, the best versions were well balanced, and the high alcohol content wasn't readily noticeable. The tannins were commonly well integrated, and within the best wines, there was ample complexity and depth of flavor. This is a grape which can present greatness, which can compare well to other famed red grapes around the world.

Josip has a deep passion for Plavac Mali, and mentioned that as there has been so little research on the grape, he began a project to experiment with it, to delve deeper into its mysteries. His objective is to make perfect Plavac Mali, noting it's "an advantage to make one perfect wine from one perfect grape." Within Komarna, he stated that the pH of Plavac Mali is low, and it presents four types of berries on the wine. The dark red berries are the best for making wine, and the other three types include regular red, raisins, and green grapes (which get sorted out). There are also issues with the seeds in the grapes, which can put sour flavors in the wine, so it's important not to tear those seeds.

Their Plavac Mali commonly spends two years aging in oak, a blend of French, American and Croatian barrels, which they believe is the best blend of barrels. They use only about 10% new oak, and Josip also mentioned that Plavac Mali doesn't need much time in oak.

The primary focus of Josip's research, for the last four years, has been on evaluating Plavac Mali harvesting times as well as various maceration periods. In addition, Josip is "participating in a research project in collaboration with the Faculty of Medicine in Split on the topic: Biological effects of wine - the impact of vinification technology, deal-making and wine aging. It is funded by the Croatian Science Foundation." Eventually, Josip plans to publish a book with his findings, and he already helps his colleagues with Plavac Mali issues. And once Josip concludes his work with Plavac Mali, he will then start research and experimentation on the Pošip grape.

I loved Josip's passion and intelligence, his ardent curiosity about figuring out the puzzle of Plavac Mali. His endeavors will benefit the Komarna region, as well as many other areas of Croatia. Croatia needs more people like Josip, more people willing to study the grapes and terroir of Croatia to make their wine industry even better. Josip was also personable and humble, a very gracious host, and the type of person you want to sit down with over a glass of wine, and a plate of cheese, and just chat about life.

Our tasting began with a couple Rosés, beginning with the 2018 Volarević Le Chic Rosé, with a label clearly intended to appeal to women. This Rosé is made from 100% Plavac Mali, which is difficult as Plavac Mali grapes provide almost red juice, so it's hard to get a pink color, even with minimal maceration. With a 13.5% ABV, this was a dry, crisp and fruity wine, a pleasing drink which would be a fine summer wine.

The 2017 Volarević Rosé Premium, also made from 100% Plavac Mali and a 13.5% ABV, uses only free run juice. In addition, the final period of fermentation occurs in oak barrels, and later it ages for 3-4 months in stainless steel. This was a more complex and intriguing wine, which was crisp and dry, with more subtle red fruit flavors (especially strawberry and cherry), as well as a touch of herbs and floral elements. This was the type of Rosé that I would drink year round, savoring each sip, and it was also very food friendly. Highly recommended!

The 2018 Volarević Quattro is one of their non-Komarna wines, a wine that reflects their heritage as it was the type of wine their grandfather once made. It is a blend of four grapes, with 80% Chardonnay, and the other 20% including Ugni Blanc, Rkatsiteli, and Smederevka, which was once a common blend in Yugoslavia. It has a 12% ABV, saw no oak, and was interesting, with citrus flavors, subtle spice notes, some minerality and a touch of creaminess. This would make for an excellent seafood wine.

Onto another excellent seafood wine! The 2018 Volarević Pošip, made from 100% Pošip, underwent 6-12 hours of skin contact. spent five months in stainless steel and two months in the bottle. With 13.5% ABV, it had a nice golden yellow color with alluring aromatics. On the palate, it was fresh and crisp, with tasty flavors of citrus and peach, a hint of almonds, and a touch of floral honey. It was light bodied and compelling, and definitely would be great with shellfish, like the oysters of Ston. A hearty recommendation.

It was a treat to sample some 2019 Pošip from the tank, which wasn't fully fermented yet. Each Pošip is made in 3-4, each with different yeasts, which will later be blended together. This sample was lightly sweet with plenty of prominent peach and grapefruit flavors.

Moving onto their red wines, we began with the 2015 Plavac Mali, which comes in at 16% ABV. Looking at that ABV on the label, some wine lovers might be worried, concerned the wine would be too hot. This was not the case with this Plavac Mali, which was well balanced and you wouldn't suspect the ABV to be that high. The wine spent about 12 months or so in oak barrels, and then another 12 months in the bottle. It possessed an appealing nose of black fruits and spice, and the palate presented a complex and delicious taste. There were flavors of blueberry and plum, underlying spice notes, well-integrated tannins, and excellent acidity. It was silky smooth with a moderately long and satisfying finish. This wine beckons for a steak, or another hearty dish. An excellent introduction to this grape.

We then moved onto the 2016 Volarević "Gold Edition" Plavac Mali, which is only 15% ABV. This was a bigger, bolder wine, with stronger tannins but it wasn't overpowering in the least. You received a powerful and alluring aroma of black fruits and spice, both which also came out on the palate. Ripe plum, blackberry, a bit of blueberry, black pepper, dark spice and a hint of herbs, especially on the finish. There was a certain freshness to the wine as well. Complex, well balanced, and with a lengthy, satisfying finish. This is a wine best paired with a hearty dish, a big steak, wild game, or something similar.

With a little age, how would this Gold Edition turn out? We got a glimpse into this through the 2013 Volarević "Gold Edition" Plavac Mali, with a 15.5% ABV.  It still possessed a fresh element, though it had also mellowed some, with less tannins, presenting even more of a silky feel. The black fruit flavors and spice remained, though the spice had grown more subtle and there were now notes of leather and chocolate. Complex, well balanced and superb, just a true pleasure to slowly sip and enjoy. smooth. Highest recommendation!

Finally, we got a peek into Josip's research on Plavac Mali, through a tasting of six experimental bottles, all from the 2017 vintage. The first three wines were all from the time of their regular time while the second three were from a harvest ten days later. In each trio, they were divided by the length of maceration, 7, 21 and 45 days. The norm for most Croatian wineries is a 7 day maceration. Interestingly, all six of the wines had an 18.2% ABV, but they were so well balanced you would never have realized it. None of us at the tasting guessed the wines were that alcoholic. Overall, I preferred the 21 day macerated wines, as they seemed the best balanced, with the 45 day macerations being my second choice. Josip also mentioned that he preferred the 21 and 45 day maceration, though he didn't choose one over the other.

It was fascinating to get an insight into Josip's research, and it seems possible it could have significant ramifications for the Croatian wine industry and their use of Plavac Mali. If a longer maceration provides more complexity and depth of flavor to Plavac Mali, then maybe the norm of 7 days could change across the industry. It might also persuade other wineries to conduct their own research and experimentation, whether with Plavac Mali or other indigenous grapes.

After our tasting, Josip provided us lunch, a sign of his generous hospitality. In the Neretva Valley, frog legs are a traditional food and they took center stage at our lunch at Volarević. I love frog legs so I was excited for the dishes brought to our table. There were sautéed frog legs with onions, showcasing the tender meat of the frog.

There were also breaded, fried frog legs, adding a bit of crunch to the sweet meat.

The centerpiece of the lunch was Brudet, a traditional Croatian, tomato-based seafood stew. You'll find varieties of this stew across Croatia, though most commonly are made with tomatoes, olive oil, onions, garlic, parsley, salt, and pepper. Many different types of seafood can be used in this stew, though in the Neretva Valley, eels and frog legs is very common, and that is what we were served, atop polenta. A rich and hearty stew, the meaty eel was a nice addition to the lighter meat of the frog legs. It was spiced well, with rich garlic notes, and was an excellent pairing with Plavac Mali.

Every wine region needs wineries like Volarević, which engage in research and experimentation which can benefit the entire region. Within a relatively short time period, Volarević has also been producing an excellent range of wines and Rakija. As a number of these wines are currently available in Massachusetts, local wine lovers should check them out. And hopefully more of their portfolio will also become available in the near future. Volarević is another reason why you need to know more about the Komarna appellation.