Rant: Eat More (and Diverse) Seafood

Eat More Seafood! Eat More Seafood! Eat More Seafood! 

Yesterday, I went fishing with friends off the coast of Newburyport, traveling over 20 miles out to sea. Aboard The Wharf Rat, my friend Adam Japko's fishing boat, we had much luck, catching many haddocks, and one lone pollock, and we ended up with approximately forty pounds of fillets. It was a fun day, with excellent weather, and now we all have fresh fresh for dinner this week. I look forward to enjoying this delicious fish. When's the last time you went fishing? 

As I've said repeatedly before, in multiple articles over numerous years (and it continues to bear repeating), Americans need to eat more seafood. Seafood consumption will significantly lessen your chances of dying from the leading cause of death in the U.S., heart disease. That's a powerful reason why you should consume more seafood and it's far from the only reason.

Annual seafood consumption had been on a depressing decline, with seven years of constant decline, down to 14.5 pounds in 2013. In 2014, there was a tiny increase, to 14.6 pounds, but the best news came in 2015 when annual consumption actually increased nearly a pound to 15.5 pounds. The problem is that according to recommendations from the USDA, and many other bodies, Americans should consume at least 26 pounds of seafood each year, essentially meaning you should eat seafood twice a week. 

According to the Centers for Disease Control & Prevention (CDC), the leading cause of death in the U.S. is heart disease, killing over 614,000 people each year. We all have had family and friends who have died from heart disease, and we should be doing what we can to reduce our own chances of acquiring heart disease. Do you want to die prematurely, leaving your loved ones without your presence? Do you want to die from heart disease when you could have adopted a small lifestyle change which might have saved you?

Seafood consumption is a significant key to reducing your chances of heart disease. Since the 1970s, over 20,000 research studies have been conducted on the health benefits of seafood and they have concluded that eating seafood twice a week can reduce your chance of dying from heart disease by about 36%. You won't find another single food that has been scientifically proven to reduce heart disease so much. Low seafood consumption is blamed for 84,000 deaths in the U.S. and 1.4 million globally. Besides helping to reduce heart disease, research has also been providing growing evidence of the health benefits to the brain and bones as well as against cancers and inflammatory diseases.  Eating more seafood is such a simple change to your lifestyle and it can bring so many health benefits.

Some good news has just been released, providing some hope to the situation. The National Fisheries Institute (NFI) just released information on seafood consumption in 2021, and it indicates that Americans consumed 20.5 pounds, a record amount. In 2019, Americans had consumed 19.3 pounds, and in 2020, they consumed 19 pounds, with Covid-10 playing a role in the slight decrease in 2020. 2021 consumption is still 5.5 pounds short of the recommended amount, but the increase in consumption is great news. Let's hope seafood consumption continues to grow over the new few years.

More good news has come out of the NFI report as well. Previously, the Top Ten most popular seafoods constituted about 90% of all seafood consumption. As I've also said repeatedly, Americans need to eat more diverse seafood, to expand beyond the most common seafoods and find the delights of so many different fish. In 2021, the Top Ten constituted only 76% of seafood consumption, a clear indication that Americans have been expanding their palates.

Shrimp stills takes the #1 spot, with Americans eating an average of 5.9 pounds, nearly a 2 pound increase since 2015. Salmon was #2, with 3.38 pounds, an increase of nearly half a pound since 2015. Canned tuna was #3, with 1.9 pounds, a decrease of .3 pounds since 2015. The rest of the Top Ten includes Tilapia (1.04 pounds), Alaska pollock (.78 pounds), Pangasius (.71 pounds), Cod (.6 pounds), Crab (.59 pounds), Catfish (.51 pounds), and Clams (.26 pounds). 

You should eat seafood that's not part of that Top Ten list, checking out the rest of the delicious seafood which is available, from mussels to dogfish. Expand your palate and delight in the wonders of the entire world of seafood.

Step up your game and eat more seafood in general, and be more diverse in the seafood you enjoy. Try to consume seafood at least twice a week. Seafood is delicious, can be prepared in a myriad of ways, and is extremely healthy. And why not go fishing and get some fresh seafood for yourself and your family? 

What's stopping you from reaching your seafood consumption goal? 

SENA22: An Overview of the Seafood Expo

Due to the pandemic, the Seafood Expo North America (SENA) wasn't held in 2020 and 2021. It finally returned this year, although significantly smaller than usual. I'm happy that it returned, as this is one of my favorite food events of the year, three days of seafood immersion, seeking stories about the latest news and information concerning the seafood industry. 

SENA is the largest seafood trade event in North America, and in prior years it continually broke records on both its exhibitor size and attendance. In 2019, there were over 1349 exhibitors, representing 49 different countries, spread out over 256,690 square feet in exhibit space. However, this year, as expected due to pandemic issues, the event was much smaller. There were only about 830 exhibitors, about one-third less than usual, spread out over 180,000 square-feet of exhibit space. Some of the space that would normally be taken by exhibitors was taken over by food vendors, selling sandwiches, tacos, and more.

Attendance is normally over 20,000 people, but I haven't found attendance figures for this year, though it was clearly much smaller than previous years. The attendees are from countries all over the world, making the Expo a truly international event. It's an excellent example of the interconnectedness of our world, of how we are really one vast community with shared interests. When you consider the oceans occupy about 71% of the world's surface, it's easy to understand how it unites us. Plus, we also have to consider all the freshwater rivers, lakes, and waterways which produce seafood. 

Sunday is usually the busiest day at the Expo, but it seemed much more manageable this year, as in previous years it can get a little crowded walking around, especially when people sometimes stop in the middle of the aisle to chat with others. Walking up and down the myriad aisles of exhibitors at the Expo is also great exercise. And if you get tired, the Expo has several sections where you can sit and recharge your electronics. 

Although masks weren't mandated for SENA, a significant number of exhibitors and attendees still wore masks. There was also plenty of hand sanitizer available throughout the exhibit hall. Social distancing is obviously very difficult at such a large event, so masks were the main option for added protection. 

The main events of the Seafood Expo occur each year over the course of three days, from Sunday to Tuesday, over a total period of 19 hours. However, there are a few other events that occur before and after the normal hours of the Expo, such as receptions and coffee hours. This year, the program included over 28 conference sessions, the 14th Annual Oyster Shucking Competition, the Seafood Excellence Awards, and much more. 

There's something for everyone. However, you certainly can't attend every SENA event, so you need to pick and choose which you most desire to attend, which events fit your specific interests. However, it's always cool to venture beyond your usual interests and learn about something new. Over the years, I've learned plenty about seafood, and I'm always trying to further my education in this regard. 

The three-day event also had an extensive conference program, offering more than 28 sessions, on a wide variety of seafood topics. For example, the keynote address concerned an “Economic Outlook for 2022,” and was given by Megan Greene, a global economist, Financial Times columnist, and senior fellow for the Harvard Kennedy School. Some of the other conference sessions included: Why Seafood Quality is Critical, Finding the Next Generation of Diverse Seafood Talent, Transforming Aquaculture, and Consumer Insights into How & Why They Shop Seafood. I always attend at least a couple of these sessions, which are generally informative and fascinating. 

Each year at SENA, there's a competition held for the Best New Foodservice Product and Best New Retail Product. The finalists’ products are displayed in the New Product Showcase and during the course of the event, the products will be judged, "based on their uniqueness and appropriateness to the market, taste profile, packaging, market potential, convenience, nutritional value and originality." The winner this year included: Best New Retail Product to Bakkafrost--Native Hebridean Smoked Scottish Salmon Side and Best New Foodservice Product to DOM International Limited – DOM Reserve Salmon Poke. 

SENA is a food event which I've promoted and recommended year after year. Besides all the delectable seafood samples, you'll also find ample fodder for many different story ideas. SENA touches on some of the most important issues facing our world, from sustainability to climate change. Every local writer who has any interest in seafood, sustainability, health, recipes, or food in general, should attend this Expo. 

However, few local writers attend SENA and those who do commonly write only a single article about it. These articles are often very basic, touching only on some of the most general issues about the Expo. Even the major local newspapers often ignore SENA, at best printing a single article about it, a basic overview lacking any depth. This year, it seems that neither the Boston Herald nor the Boston Globe have published pieces about SENA. Why is SENA so often ignored in local media coverage? It's an embarrassment that such an important event receives so little local press. 

As I've said before, this all needs to change. We need more local writers to attend SENA and delve more deeply into the myriad issues of the seafood industry. We need more local writers to help promote seafood consumption and sustainability. We need more local writers to contribute to the discussion of these vital issues. We need the print media to get more involved too. The more positive articles about seafood, the better for all of us. There's too much negativity in the media about seafood consumption and more positive articles need to set the record straight.

It should be obvious that the primary element of SENA is commerce, the buying and selling of seafood-related products and services. Nearly all of the exhibitors are there to make money while most of the attendees are there to spend money. Attendees are seeking seafood, both fresh and frozen, as well as various processed seafood products, from crab cakes to salmon bacon. Others are there to buy processing equipment, cooking supplies, packaging machinery, labeling equipment, conveyors, and much more. Still others are seeking services, from food safety to third party certification. Much of this commerce is international, with exhibitors and attendees from all over the world, trying to make deals. It's business and money.

What may not seem obvious is that SENA is not really about seafood. Despite the many thousand pounds of seafood being showcased at the Expo, it's merely a means to an end. SENA is actually about people and community. Seafood is only food, intended to provide sustenance and nutrition to people, and that is understood, though largely unspoken, by the exhibitors and attendees. SENA is much more about fishermen and fish farmers, distributors and retailers, inventors and importers. It is about all of the people involved in the seafood industry, and their economic well being. It is about the global economy as the seafood industry is truly international and affects people all across the world.

Concerns about seafood sustainability ultimately come down to the fate of people, whether future generations will have enough food to survive, and whether they will live in a clean world, with adequate resources. The fate of the oceans and the fish directly relates to the fate of mankind. Seafood sustainability is also about the survival of fishermen, that they can make a sufficient income to survive and thrive. When you understand that SENA is all about people, then the issues take on an even greater significance. We need to talk about this more, to ensure that everyone understands people are the primary concern. It is our future and nothing is more important than that.

Although SENA involves many serious and vital issues, it also has an element of fun, as well as plenty of tasty seafood samples. SENA is a showcase for new seafood products as well as place to display other seafood products which may have a storied history, such as Maine Lobster. Though it is common to find for sampling a variety of simple, fried seafoods, there are also some chefs who elevate their offerings, providing more interesting and delicious dishes. This year, because of pandemic issues, there were far less seafood samples available.   

I'll be posting additional articles about SENA in the near future, highlighting some of the items which especially caught my attention this year. Tidal Tots, Dutch Oysters, Fried Fish Skins, and more. 

Finally, I want to highlight that SENA returns next year, March 12-14, 2023, and I strongly encourage all local writers to mark those dates down on their calendar and plan to attend next year. I suspect that SENA will return to close to pre-pandemic levels next year. The seafood industry needs more champions to promote its many positive aspects and I call on local writers to step up and become one of those needed champions.

Volarević Winery: Organic Rakija & The Complexity of Plavac Mali

One of the highlights of my trip to Croatia was definitely the visit with the good people of Vinogradi Volarević, one of the K7 wineries in the Komarna region. A river boat ride, superb Rakija, scrumptious frog legs & eel, compelling wines, and a fascinating enologist. I was also impressed with their research and experimentation with the Plavac Mali grape, which could end up benefiting many other Croatian wineries.

For centuries, black and low wooden boats, commonly known as lađa or ladja, were used to traverse the waterways of the Neretva Valley. They were used for fishing as well as transporting people and cargo, and many locals owned a lađa. We boarded a converted boat, for a pleasant journey down one of the waterways. It was a beautiful sunny day, with a light breeze, and the waters, fed by springs, were crystal clear.

Eventually, the need for the lađa largely vanished, so many of these boats were abandoned and remained unused for years. More recently, there has been a renewed interest in these boats, more for pleasure rides, and there is even an annual Marathon lađa race, held in August, which has only been receiving growing interest.

Our host was Josip Volarević, owner and oenologist (pictured on the right side), and there were also two locals who provided traditional Croatian music as our boat slowly made its way down the river.

Here is a brief sample of some of that traditional Croatian music.

Aboard, we snacked on some Croatian prosciutto, cheese, and bread, and also enjoyed some Volarević Rakija. They produce seven types of Rakija, which are all organic, and we tasted three of them on the boat. My favorite of the three, which was also my favorite Rakija during my time in Croatia, was their Travarica. Travarica is a grape brandy which has been infused with numerous herbs, and everyone's recipe varies. It reminds me of a good Vermouth. The Volarević Travarica contains about 7-10 herbs, has a 40% ABV, and possesses a delicious and complex herbal taste. It was silky and warming, with a lengthy finish and a mild sweetness. I brought home some of this Rakija because I loved it so much.

The Volarević Visnjevac is a Cherry Rakija, with a 25% ABV, and possesses a pleasing sour cherry flavor, which was sweet but far from cloying. This would make a nice after-drink drink, maybe with dessert.

The Volarević Menta is a Wild Mint Rakija, with a 25% ABV, and possesses a strong minty flavor and plenty of sweetness. A nice digestive after dinner.

The Volarević family are relatively newcomers to the winery business, and initially, in 1976, they started the Prud Nursery business. named after the village where they originate. About ten years ago, after much hard work and growth, they became the largest nursery in Croatia, with about 50 hectares of fruit, vegetables and other plants/trees.

As the winery is situated next to several of the greenhouses, we had some time to tour the greenhouses, and it was an extensive operation, with an amazing diversity of fruits and veggies.

Their winery is currently open only for special guests, and Josip Volarević led us through a tasting of many of their wines, and then provided us a delicious, traditional and regional lunch. Though Josip's grandfather made a little bit of wine, it was more a minor hobby than anything else. With the Volarević Winery, Josip states that "we are creating a tradition" and they have chosen the new Komarna appellation to begin their history.

Josip always had a dream to become an oenologist, and with his family, which includes three brothers, they chose to enter the wine industry. Starting in 2005, they began to prepare land in Komarna for their vineyards, which entailed a lengthy and costly process of breaking up great sections of stone. It wasn't until 2008-2009, that they were finally able to plant vines, which now occupy about 12.5 hectares of their estate, the vast majority planted with Plavac Mali. And like all of the other Komarna wineries, their vineyards are certified organic. Their total estate is about 15 hectares, and they plan to construct a tasting room in the extra space. They originally worked out of a winery in Prud and created their new winery in 2016. Their wines bear the name Syrtis, which translates as Prud, their family's village.

The winery produces about 100,000 bottles annually, 50% which are Plavac Mali, and their wines are generally 100% varietal. They possess a variety of oak barrels, including French, American, Hungarian, and Croatian. Within their cellar, they generally only store older Plavac Mali, selling off most of their fresh wine. Plavac Mali is an important Croatian grape, and Josip is engaged in intense research and experimentation to understand this grape, especially considering little prior research has been done on this significant grape. So, let's take a bit of a deeper dive into what is known about Plavac Mali.

Although Plavac Mali is first mentioned back in document back to 1841, genetic investigations seems to indicate that it is a much older grape. The lack of previous documentation may be due, at least in part, because Plavac Mali has long been thought to be Tribidag, though DNA testing has revealed that it is actually a cross between the Tribidag and Dobričić grapes. The name Plavac Mali translates as "small blue," which refers to its small, blue, thick-skinned grapes.

Plavac Mali was the first Croatian grape to have its own appellation, Dingač, which was established in 1961. Dingač, located on the Pelješac peninsula, continues to be known as one of the best regions for Plavac Mali. The grape is also said to be the most widely planted red grape in Croatia, though it's primarily found in the Dalmatia region. It grows best in areas with lots of sunshine and heat, and minimal rain during the late spring and summer.

It's a late ripening grape, and when I visited Croatia in mid-September, many of the vineyards hadn't yet harvested their Plavac Mali, though would soon do so. I should note though that some wineries, which produce Rosé from Plavac Mali, have separate plots for those grapes and had already harvested them. Plavac Mali grapes commonly have high sugar levels, which can lead to high alcohol levels, and they also often have high tannins as well. Although this seems like it would only make powerhouse wines, that is far from the case, and I was impressed with the wide variety of expressions I found in the various Plavac Mali wines I tasted during my time in Croatia.

Common flavors found within Plavac Mali wines includes blackberry, black cherry, plum, pepper, and spice, though sometimes you might also find herbal notes and earthiness. It produces wines that can age very well, and often is aged, at least for a short time, in oak. In Croatia, I tasted fresh and light Plavac Mali, at 13% ABV, but also bigger, bolder Plavac Mali at 16% ABV, and even a few at 18% ABV! However, the best versions were well balanced, and the high alcohol content wasn't readily noticeable. The tannins were commonly well integrated, and within the best wines, there was ample complexity and depth of flavor. This is a grape which can present greatness, which can compare well to other famed red grapes around the world.

Josip has a deep passion for Plavac Mali, and mentioned that as there has been so little research on the grape, he began a project to experiment with it, to delve deeper into its mysteries. His objective is to make perfect Plavac Mali, noting it's "an advantage to make one perfect wine from one perfect grape." Within Komarna, he stated that the pH of Plavac Mali is low, and it presents four types of berries on the wine. The dark red berries are the best for making wine, and the other three types include regular red, raisins, and green grapes (which get sorted out). There are also issues with the seeds in the grapes, which can put sour flavors in the wine, so it's important not to tear those seeds.

Their Plavac Mali commonly spends two years aging in oak, a blend of French, American and Croatian barrels, which they believe is the best blend of barrels. They use only about 10% new oak, and Josip also mentioned that Plavac Mali doesn't need much time in oak.

The primary focus of Josip's research, for the last four years, has been on evaluating Plavac Mali harvesting times as well as various maceration periods. In addition, Josip is "participating in a research project in collaboration with the Faculty of Medicine in Split on the topic: Biological effects of wine - the impact of vinification technology, deal-making and wine aging. It is funded by the Croatian Science Foundation." Eventually, Josip plans to publish a book with his findings, and he already helps his colleagues with Plavac Mali issues. And once Josip concludes his work with Plavac Mali, he will then start research and experimentation on the Pošip grape.

I loved Josip's passion and intelligence, his ardent curiosity about figuring out the puzzle of Plavac Mali. His endeavors will benefit the Komarna region, as well as many other areas of Croatia. Croatia needs more people like Josip, more people willing to study the grapes and terroir of Croatia to make their wine industry even better. Josip was also personable and humble, a very gracious host, and the type of person you want to sit down with over a glass of wine, and a plate of cheese, and just chat about life.

Our tasting began with a couple Rosés, beginning with the 2018 Volarević Le Chic Rosé, with a label clearly intended to appeal to women. This Rosé is made from 100% Plavac Mali, which is difficult as Plavac Mali grapes provide almost red juice, so it's hard to get a pink color, even with minimal maceration. With a 13.5% ABV, this was a dry, crisp and fruity wine, a pleasing drink which would be a fine summer wine.

The 2017 Volarević Rosé Premium, also made from 100% Plavac Mali and a 13.5% ABV, uses only free run juice. In addition, the final period of fermentation occurs in oak barrels, and later it ages for 3-4 months in stainless steel. This was a more complex and intriguing wine, which was crisp and dry, with more subtle red fruit flavors (especially strawberry and cherry), as well as a touch of herbs and floral elements. This was the type of Rosé that I would drink year round, savoring each sip, and it was also very food friendly. Highly recommended!

The 2018 Volarević Quattro is one of their non-Komarna wines, a wine that reflects their heritage as it was the type of wine their grandfather once made. It is a blend of four grapes, with 80% Chardonnay, and the other 20% including Ugni Blanc, Rkatsiteli, and Smederevka, which was once a common blend in Yugoslavia. It has a 12% ABV, saw no oak, and was interesting, with citrus flavors, subtle spice notes, some minerality and a touch of creaminess. This would make for an excellent seafood wine.

Onto another excellent seafood wine! The 2018 Volarević Pošip, made from 100% Pošip, underwent 6-12 hours of skin contact. spent five months in stainless steel and two months in the bottle. With 13.5% ABV, it had a nice golden yellow color with alluring aromatics. On the palate, it was fresh and crisp, with tasty flavors of citrus and peach, a hint of almonds, and a touch of floral honey. It was light bodied and compelling, and definitely would be great with shellfish, like the oysters of Ston. A hearty recommendation.

It was a treat to sample some 2019 Pošip from the tank, which wasn't fully fermented yet. Each Pošip is made in 3-4, each with different yeasts, which will later be blended together. This sample was lightly sweet with plenty of prominent peach and grapefruit flavors.

Moving onto their red wines, we began with the 2015 Plavac Mali, which comes in at 16% ABV. Looking at that ABV on the label, some wine lovers might be worried, concerned the wine would be too hot. This was not the case with this Plavac Mali, which was well balanced and you wouldn't suspect the ABV to be that high. The wine spent about 12 months or so in oak barrels, and then another 12 months in the bottle. It possessed an appealing nose of black fruits and spice, and the palate presented a complex and delicious taste. There were flavors of blueberry and plum, underlying spice notes, well-integrated tannins, and excellent acidity. It was silky smooth with a moderately long and satisfying finish. This wine beckons for a steak, or another hearty dish. An excellent introduction to this grape.

We then moved onto the 2016 Volarević "Gold Edition" Plavac Mali, which is only 15% ABV. This was a bigger, bolder wine, with stronger tannins but it wasn't overpowering in the least. You received a powerful and alluring aroma of black fruits and spice, both which also came out on the palate. Ripe plum, blackberry, a bit of blueberry, black pepper, dark spice and a hint of herbs, especially on the finish. There was a certain freshness to the wine as well. Complex, well balanced, and with a lengthy, satisfying finish. This is a wine best paired with a hearty dish, a big steak, wild game, or something similar.

With a little age, how would this Gold Edition turn out? We got a glimpse into this through the 2013 Volarević "Gold Edition" Plavac Mali, with a 15.5% ABV.  It still possessed a fresh element, though it had also mellowed some, with less tannins, presenting even more of a silky feel. The black fruit flavors and spice remained, though the spice had grown more subtle and there were now notes of leather and chocolate. Complex, well balanced and superb, just a true pleasure to slowly sip and enjoy. smooth. Highest recommendation!

Finally, we got a peek into Josip's research on Plavac Mali, through a tasting of six experimental bottles, all from the 2017 vintage. The first three wines were all from the time of their regular time while the second three were from a harvest ten days later. In each trio, they were divided by the length of maceration, 7, 21 and 45 days. The norm for most Croatian wineries is a 7 day maceration. Interestingly, all six of the wines had an 18.2% ABV, but they were so well balanced you would never have realized it. None of us at the tasting guessed the wines were that alcoholic. Overall, I preferred the 21 day macerated wines, as they seemed the best balanced, with the 45 day macerations being my second choice. Josip also mentioned that he preferred the 21 and 45 day maceration, though he didn't choose one over the other.

It was fascinating to get an insight into Josip's research, and it seems possible it could have significant ramifications for the Croatian wine industry and their use of Plavac Mali. If a longer maceration provides more complexity and depth of flavor to Plavac Mali, then maybe the norm of 7 days could change across the industry. It might also persuade other wineries to conduct their own research and experimentation, whether with Plavac Mali or other indigenous grapes.

After our tasting, Josip provided us lunch, a sign of his generous hospitality. In the Neretva Valley, frog legs are a traditional food and they took center stage at our lunch at Volarević. I love frog legs so I was excited for the dishes brought to our table. There were sautéed frog legs with onions, showcasing the tender meat of the frog.

There were also breaded, fried frog legs, adding a bit of crunch to the sweet meat.

The centerpiece of the lunch was Brudet, a traditional Croatian, tomato-based seafood stew. You'll find varieties of this stew across Croatia, though most commonly are made with tomatoes, olive oil, onions, garlic, parsley, salt, and pepper. Many different types of seafood can be used in this stew, though in the Neretva Valley, eels and frog legs is very common, and that is what we were served, atop polenta. A rich and hearty stew, the meaty eel was a nice addition to the lighter meat of the frog legs. It was spiced well, with rich garlic notes, and was an excellent pairing with Plavac Mali.

Every wine region needs wineries like Volarević, which engage in research and experimentation which can benefit the entire region. Within a relatively short time period, Volarević has also been producing an excellent range of wines and Rakija. As a number of these wines are currently available in Massachusetts, local wine lovers should check them out. And hopefully more of their portfolio will also become available in the near future. Volarević is another reason why you need to know more about the Komarna appellation.