Jana Grill & Bakery: A Win For Lunch

Located in Watertown, Jana Grill & Bakery serves Armenian, Georgian, Slavic and Mediterranean cuisine, and I stopped by there last week for lunch. It's a small restaurant, with a rustic vibe, with a good-sized menu of appetizers, salads, soups, grilled meats, flatbreads, sides, desserts and more. You'll find dishes including Hummus, Pasuts Tolma, Babaganush, Pelmeni, and Beef Borscht. There are also Khorovats (charcoal grilled meats) and Losh-Kebabs (charcoal grilled ground meat), including chicken, beef, pork, and lamb. So many enticing choices. 

We began our lunch with a pitcher of Kompot, a slightly sweet juice of blueberries, strawberries and raspberries. It wasn't overly sweet, and had a pleasant berry taste, the different fruits blending well together. 

Jana Grill is also one of the few spots in the Boston+ area which serves Khachapuri, a Georgian cheese bread (the country, not the state). Different regions of Georgia have different recipes and versions, and there are over 50 different varieties of khachapuri. The National Agency for Cultural Heritage Preservation even granted the status of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Georgia to Khachapuri. 

Jana Grill makes two different types of Khachapuri, which are listed on their menu under "Flatbreads."  The Megruli Khachapuri (Small $15, Large $20) is a specialty of the Samegrelo region, a forested region which borders the Black Sea. It resembles a cheesy pizza, without any sauce, and the restaurant once described the dish as "Think of cheese pizza, and triple the cheese." 

 

They also serve Ajarian Khachapuri (Small $16, Large $22), one of the most popular and well known types of Khachapuri, and originated in the seaside region of Adjara. The bread is molded into a boat shape and the middle is topped by a soft-boiled egg or just the yolk. The crust is a nice golden brown, with a crisp exterior and a light, fluffy interior. The melted cheese is not just atop the crust, but also extends under some of the crust. The cheesy blend in the middle, when mixed with the egg yolk, is salty, cheesy, creamy and rich of umami. Pure delight! You can even order the khachapuri with slices of basturma (cured beef). 

Jana Grill has a Lunch Special Menu, from 11am-3pm, which includes Combo Plates ($17-$29). You create your own Combo Plates by making four choices including Protein (chicken, pork, lamb, beef or falafel), Side (rice or roasted potato), Appetizer (Hummus, Babaganush, or Tzatziki), and Sauce (Tahini, Tomato, Garlic, or Tzatziki). The Combo plate also comes with a small salad and pita bread. We chose the Lamb with hummus, roasted potatoes and garlic sauce. The lamb was tender and flavorful, with a nice char on it. The hummus was creamy and tasty and the potatoes were lightly crispy on the outside, and fully inside. The salad veggies were very fresh too. A hearty plate of food and a great choice for lunch. 

Service was excellent, and the food continues to impress. I last dined here prior to the pandemic, and the food remains at a high quality. It's an excellent spot to find some dishes which are hard to find elsewhere in the Boston+ area. Jana Grill earns my hearty recommendation.

Khachapuri, Georgian Cheese Bread: From Flaming Pit To Jana Grill

"In October ‘95, authorities in Tbilisi in the former Soviet republic of Georgia closed down an illegal bakery whose specialty was khachapuri, the traditional Georgian cheese pies. It was illegal because the pies were being baked at an unauthorized location: a room at the Tbilisi morgue."
--Daily Kent Stater, March 7, 1996

This past December, I posted my annual No Predictions, Only Desires, a small list of my desires, those trends, issues and items which I would love to see step forward and take precedence in 2019. On that list was More Love For The Country of Georgia, as I've been disappointed there isn't a Georgian restaurant yet in the Boston area. Locally, there are several restaurants that serve Khachapuri, Georgian cheese bread, but almost no other Georgian dishes can be found. Plus, most of the Khachapuri that is available is only a single type, even though over 50 different varieties exist.

Some change may be coming in the near future as I've been told that Ilona, a new restaurant coming to the site of the former Parish Cafe on Tremont Street, will have several different Georgian dishes on their menu. No more details are currently available but I'm eagerly anticipating their menu to see which Georgian items they will include.

Khachapuri is hugely popular in Georgia and is considered an essential element of the supra, the famous Georgian feast, as well as an everyday item, even as street food. Different regions of Georgia have different recipes and versions, and recent research indicates there are at least 53 different varieties of khachapuri. Recently, The National Agency for Cultural Heritage Preservation even granted the status of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Georgia to Khachapuri.

What's not to love about a delicious melding of bread and cheese? One of the most popular and well known types of Khachapuri is the Adjarian, also known as Adjaruli and Acharuli, where the bread is molded into a boat shape and the middle is topped by a soft-boiled egg or just the yolk. This variety of Khachapuri originated in the seaside region of Adjara.

The earliest U.S. newspaper reference I've found about Khachapuri is from the Columbia Missourian, November 11, 1983. The article provided several recipes from "Russian Cooking," a Times Life Foods of the World book, including one for Khachapuri. The recipe called for the use of "sweet Muenster cheese." In Georgia, they generally use a couple indigenous cheeses, such as Imeruli and Suluguni. As it is difficult to find those Georgian cheeses in the U.S., many places substitute a combination of mozzarella and feta, which is thought to be a worthy replacement.

Locally, you can find Khachapuri in several restaurants including:
---Broadsheet Coffee Roasters in Cambridge (Georgian Eggboat, Khachapuri, feta-mozzarella filled bread, soft egg, side salad, $10)
---Mediterranean Grill in Newton (Hachapuri, Mixed variety of cheeses, with two sunny side up eggs, served on our homemade bed of bread, $14.95)
---Flaming Pit in Watertown (see below)
---Jana Grill & Bakery in Watertown (see below)

The Flaming Pit, owned by Armenia-born Tigran Yesayan, is essentially a very casual, wood fire grill & pizza shop. Some of the grill specialities include Kebabs and Lulas (a type of kebab made from minced meat). Most of their pizzas are the type you might find anywhere, except for their Ardora, an Armenian pizza with white sauce, basturma, sun dried tomatoes, black olives, cilantro and mozzarella cheese.

They also serve Ajarakan (another term for Adjarian) Khachapuri ($9.99), made with feta cheese, mozzarella, egg and butter. It actually has two eggs in it, and you are supposed to use a fork to mix the egg and butter into the cheese, and then tear off parts of the bread and dip it into the middle. I found the bread to be slightly overcooked for my preferences, though overall the dish was quite tasty. The gooey cheese, with a salty kick, was enhanced by the rich umami of the egg yolks, and the bread was mostly light and crusty.

Only a short distance from the Flaming Pit, and also in Watertown, is the Jana Grill & Bakery, an Armenian restaurant. There is a small parking lot behind the restaurant making it easy to stop by.

It is also a casual spot, with a more rustic decor, and has a number of tables where you can sit and enjoy lunch or dinner.

Jana Grill serves Armenian and Mediterranean cuisine, from Hummus to Babaganush, Khorovats (charcoal grilled meats) to Losh-Kebabs (charcoal grilled ground meat). There is plenty of their menu that sounds enticing, and I need to return soon to try more of their dishes. My trip there last week was primarily to check out their Khachapuri.

However, I also wanted to check out their Lavash, a house baked Armenian bread. The ample stack of lavash in the above basket only cost $1.50, and you can also purchase a pound to take home for $5.

To accompany the Lavash, I ordered one of their House-Made Sauces, the Ajika, which is a Georgian spicy sauce with red peppers, garlic, hot peppers, & herbs. A Small is $0.95 and a Large is $4. Ajika is also listed as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Georgia. It only had a small level of heat, but plenty of flavor, especially rich in peppers and garlic.

Jana Grill makes two different types of Khachapuri, which are listed on their menu under "Flatbreads" with a notation that there is an approximate wait time of 15-20 minutes. Above, you'll see the Megruli Khachapuri (Small $10, Large $13), which is listed as "Georgian cheese flatbread. A special blend of mixed cheese melted inside and over the top crust." The restaurant also describes the dish as "Think of cheese pizza, and triple the cheese." This style of Khachapuri is a specialty of the Samegrelo region, a forested region which borders the Black Sea. This certainly resembles a cheesy pizza, without any sauce, and the crust was light and chewy, with a nice crispness to the exterior, and plenty of gooey cheese.

I was thoroughly impressed with their Ajarian Khachapuri (Small $10, Large $13), which is listed as: "Popular Georgian flatbread shaped as a boat with cheese, eggs and topped with butter before serving." The crust was cooked perfectly, a nice golden brown, with a crisp exterior and a light, fluffy interior. The thick crust surrounding the middle even had cheese inside of it. The cheesy blend in the middle, when mixed with the egg yolk, was salty, cheesy, creamy and rich of umami. Each bite made me want to have another. I can easily understand the popularity of khachapuri if this is a good example of such. Highly recommended!

Jana Grill also serves one other Georgian speciality, but only on Wednesday evenings, from 5pm-9pm. They make Khinkali, a Georgian soup dumplings with a beef & lamb filling. They make each Khinkali fresh and they are priced at $1.95 each. I'm already planning a Wednesday evening visit to check out these intriguing dumplings.

Let's hope more Georgian cuisine comes to the Boston area. For now, seek out some Khachapuri and Khinkali. Jana Grill & Bakery is an excellent option.

Georgian Chacha: The Devil's Brandy

In the legends of the country of Georgia, wine was a gift from God while chacha, a pomace brandy, was a creation of the devil.

It's said that God created wine to remind Georgians of the wonders of heaven, and he first shared wine with all of his angels, as well as the devil. Though they all enjoyed the wine, it motivated the devil to try to compete with God and create his own alcoholic beverage. The devil created chacha, a potent spirit, and let God sample the fiery beverage. God finally declared that if Georgians drank three glasses or less of chacha, they remained with him, but if they had a fourth glass, they belonged to the devil.

As Georgians love to drink, they came up with a way to avoid falling under the influence of the devil. They simply drink chacha rapidly, in quick shots, so the devil won't be able to keep track and count how much they actually drank.

Chacha is a Georgian pomace brandy, similar in many respects of Italian grappa, though it is sometimes called Georgian "vodka." Pomace consists of the leftover skins, pulp, and seeds from the winemaking process. The origins of chacha are murky, with some claims that it has existed for about 1000 years in Georgia. It was commonly made in makeshift stills at homes and generally wasn't commercially produced until the 20th century. It is potent, often with a 40-60% ABV, and sometimes is aged in qvevri or oak barrels. For centuries, it has been claimed that chacha has medicinal properties, a remedy for a long list of ailments.

Chacha is still very much a niche spirit outside of Georgia. During the period of January to July 2018, Georgia exported only 219,500 bottles of chacha, though that was a 114% increase over the similar period a year before. Chacha is available in Massachusetts, and you'll find some single-varietal versions, such as Saperavi and Rkatsiteli. At a recent Georgian business event, I had the opportunity to taste my first chacha, and I hope to taste many more in the future.

The Askaneli Brothers Premium Chacha (about $22) is produced by a company with roots extending back to 1880, though its modern existence started around 1998. They own vineyards in the regions of Kakheti and Guria, producing wine and chacha. Made in the Kakheti region, this chacha matured in oak barrels for at least 12 months, and is filtered, which accounts for its colorless nature. With a 45% ABV, this chacha has an intriguing floral aroma and was surprising smooth and mild on the palate, with only a minor alcoholic bite. It possessed pleasant and more subtle flavors of hazelnut and citrus with floral accents. It was elegant, with a fairly long finish, and is definitely a very good value at this price. It is certainly not harsh like I've found in some similarly priced grappas. A hearty recommendation.

Have you tasted chacha before? What were your thoughts? Do you have any recommendations?

Rant: Boston Needs A Georgian Restaurant!

The country of Georgia may be the birthplace of wine, with evidence stretching back about 8,000 years, which is why Georgians sometimes state they have 8,000 vintages of history. Georgia is located at the crossroads of Western Asia and Eastern Europe, in the Southern Caucasus mountain range, which forms the northern border of the country. It is bordered on the west coast by the Black Sea, by Russia to the north and Turkey & Armenia to the south, with Azerbaijan to the south and east.

When Georgians drink, they eat, rarely drinking on its own. Sometimes they engage in the supra, a traditional formal feast that features near endless food and a vastness of wine. And the various regions of Georgia each have their own food specialties, plenty of diversity in this fascinating region. Georgian wines have started making inroads into the U.S., and you can find a number of them in the Boston area.

However, we need a Georgian restaurant in the Boston area! None currently exists, though other cities, from New York to Washington, D.C., have such restaurants.

It may seem strange that I'm calling for a Georgian restaurant in Boston when I've actually never been to one or eaten Georgian cuisine. However, I'm a passionate advocate of Georgian wines, having tasted well over 100 different ones, and have written 16 articles about Georgian wines. Check out All About Georgian Wine which collects the links to those articles.

Georgians always drink wine with food so their wine is produced specifically to be accompanied by food. And based on the quality and diversity of their wines, it seems logical that their cuisine must be equally as compelling. I've read multiple articles about their cuisine and they have enticed my palate, made me yearn to dine upon many of their dishes.

For example, Khachapuri, Georgian cheese bread, is considered an essential element of the supra, as well as an everyday food item too. There are over over 50 different varieties of khachapuri, made with various fillings. The Adjaruli Khachapuri, a type of molten cheese bread, originated in the seaside region of Adjara and has become hugely popular in New York City according to NY Eater. All you have to do is look at the various photos of this dish and you'll probably start salivating. Who wouldn't love Georgian cheese bread?

Check out this intriguing map of the top dishes from each region of Georgia, and you'll see plenty of enticing photos at that site as well. You can look at Mtsvadi, Georgian barbeque that is made with pork, mutton or veal, often marinated in pomegranate juice. Khinkali, a Georgian dumpling, is often made with mixed pork and beef, though sometimes also with lamb. Shkmeruli is a dish of fried chicken in a creamy garlic sauce. The list just goes on and on with one alluring dish after another. The Georgian Journal also has numerous articles and recipes about Georgian cuisine.

Spend just ten minutes reading about Georgian cuisine, and perusing photos of their foods, and you'll probably become a convert as well, desirous of a Georgian restaurant in the Boston area. This is an excellent opportunity for someone to bring a unique, new restaurant to the area. Who will step forward and be a pioneer, an advocate for Georgian cuisine? We really need Khachapuri!

Pearson Farm: Georgia Pecans

The Pecan is the only tree nut that is native to the U.S., with Georgia leading the country in pecan production, and has for over one hundred years. The U.S. produces more than 80% of the world's pecans and 14 states grow pecans, though most are from Georgia, New Mexico and Texas. In 2012, the U.S. produced about 303 million pounds of pecans, with about 100 million from Georgia, 65 million from New Mexico and 55 million from Texas. There are over 500 varieties of pecan, many named for Native American peoples, though only 3 are actually commonly available.

Pecans are also nutritious, and "...are linked to lowering cholesterol, improving heart health, lowering cancer risk and managing weight. Pecans specifically contain 3 grams dietary fiber and over 19 vitamins and minerals including but not limited to vitamin A, vitamin E, calcium, potassium and zinc. Pecans are also a good source of oleic acid, vitamin B1, thiamin, magnesium and protein, all this at only 196 calories per one once serving (about a handful)." You can find more specifics on the studies supporting these health benefits here.

One of my favorite pies is pecan pie, though I enjoy pecans in a number of other dishes as well, from pecan-crusted fish to bourbon bread pudding with pecans. I recently received a media sample of Elliot Halves Pecans from Pearson Farm, located in Fort Valley, Georgia, and knew that I needed to enjoy them, at the very least, in a pecan pie.

The Pearson Farm was established back in 1885, when Moses Winlock “Lockie” Pearson and his wife, Cornelia Emory “Emma” planted the first peach trees and soon after started growing pecans too. Today, the family continues growing peaches and pecans. Their pecans are generally harvested from October to December, though with proper storage you can keep your pecans year-round. You can refrigerate your pecans for 9-10 months, though if you freeze them, they can last up to two years.

Pearson Farm sells three varieties of pecans, both in-shell and shelled. Their varieties include Mammoth Halves, Schley (or Papershell Pecans), and Elliot Pecans. You can get shelled pecans as halves or chopped. I received one pound of Elliot Halves ($11), and this variety is small but plump, round and delicious. They can be used in cooking or snacking on their own. This variety was first discovered Florida in the 1920s, and they are more rare, especially as their harvests can be sporadic.

I enjoyed some of the pecans on their own, and they provided a fine, nutty taste with a firm texture. They seemed fresher than some of the pecans I've commonly bought at the local store, and their price is very reasonable considering the quality of the pecans. Marilyn, my sister-in-law, makes one of my favorite Pecan Pies, which she usually makes for either Thanksgiving or Christmas (or both holidays if I'm lucky). I persuaded her to make one for Easter, using the Elliot pecans and it came out excellent. The pecans had a prominent savory flavor, and seemed to enhance the pie even more than usual. During the week after Easter, I savored a few more pieces of the pecan pie, heating it up and adding a little vanilla ice cream.

You can buy the usual commercial pecans at your local supermarket, or you can order some higher quality pecans from Pearson Farm. I think you would enjoy the Pearson pecans much better.