Lunch at Karma Asian Fusion in Winchester: First Impressions

Karma Asian Fusion is a high-end, Asian fusion restaurant and the first location was founded by Iverson Guo in 2006 in Westford. There are now locations in Concord, Burlington, Andover, and Winchester, with more to come. Although the menus at the different locations are largely very similar, there are some differences as well, allowing each location to have its own identity. I have previously dined at the Burlington location, and generally enjoyed the various dishes, especially their Sushi offerings. 

The Winchester location is now serving a new weekday Lunch Menu, and have also opened their patio dining, which can seat up to 36 guests. The Lunch Menu is available from Monday to Friday, 12PM - 3PM. The lunch menu intrigued me so I've dined there twice, to check out a significant number of their offerings. 

The Menu includes:

Appetizers

--Xiao Long Bao (Soup Dumplings (3 pieces) $9.50 
--Salmon Carpaccio $15
--Chili Hamachi $15
--Crab Rangoon (4 pieces) $9
--Crispy Wonton (5 pieces; shrimp, chicken and sweet chili) $12
Soup/Salad

--Wonton Soup $10
--Cucumber Salad $10
Chinese Wok Lunch Sets $22

--Featuring General Gao’s Chicken, Yuen Yang Spicy Chicken or Beef, Vegetarian Mapo Tofu, and Mongolian Chicken or Beef. All served with hot and sour soup, white rice, pan fried dumplings, and edamame
Sushi Lunch Special $28

--Miso soup, edamame, 3 pieces of nigiri (otoro, Salmon, yellowtail), sashimi don, and ½ Fire Dragon Maki

The decor and ambiance is casually elegant, with some Asian accents, and a lengthy Sushi bar. There are multiple dining areas, and it's great for a casual meal, date night, a family dinner, a business lunch, or more. 

As for the Appetizers, the Salmon Carpaccio was excellent! Silky, tender slices of salmon, in a type of soy-based sauce with sesame seeds and scallions. A pleasing blend of textures and flavors, and an ample amount of salmon. Highly recommended!

The Chili Hamachi was also delicious, consisting of three large slices of hamachi, topped by jalapeños, and a slightly sweet sauce. Atop all of this was a crunchy and tasty mass, mixed with small yellow flowers. A pretty dish, which also possessed an excellent blend of textures and flavors. 

The Crispy Wonton were stuffed with shrimp and chicken, and accompanied by an enticing sweet chili sauce. The wonton were crunchy and crisp, with a plump and tasty pocket of shrimp and chicken. The chili sauce was delicious, with a mildly spicy heat which enhanced the taste of the wonton. I enjoyed these so much that I ordered them on both of my lunch visits.

The Xiao Long Bao (Soup Dumplings) were another excellent appetizer, with a savory and complex soup within the firm dumpling. 

On one visit, I ordered a Chinese Wok Lunch Set, with the General Gao’s Chicken. It's an ample amount of food, and is visually appealing as well. 

The General Gao’s Chicken was delicious, meaty pieces of chicken, with a thin crispy coating, and the tangy sauce was complex and compelling. The dish felt fresh, and was probably one of the best General Gao's I've tasted in quite some time. Highly recommended!

The Pan Fried Dumplings were also excellent, with a very crispy exterior, and plenty of flavorful pork inside. The toppings enhanced the dumplings, and its obvious why these dumplings are so popular at the restaurant.

A bowl of Edamame.

The Hot and Sour Soup was tasty, nicely balanced, and topped by some crunchy wonton strips.  

On my second lunch visit, I opted for the Sushi Lunch Special, and again it was an ample amount of food, as well as visually appealing.

The Nigiri included Otoro, Salmon, and Yellowtail, and each piece was superb, silky tender and flavorful, each with its own slightly different preparation, such as the sesame seeds on the salmon. From my prior experiences at Karma in Burlington, the restaurant certainly excels at their Sushi. 

The Fire Dragon Maki is composed of spicy tuna & tempura crumb over a roll of tempura crabmeat, avocado and cucumber. Large maki pieces, they are a pleasing blend of textures and flavors, both crunchy and creamy, with some mild spiciness. 

The Sashimi Don contains several different slices of sashimi, cucumber pieces and roe, atop a bowl of rice. The sashimi was superb, tender and fresh, with a nice combination of colors. Another winner of a dish.

The Miso Soup was very good, with a savory broth and tender chunks of tofu, with seaweed. 

Overall, the food was excellent, and reasonably priced considering the quantity and quality of what you receive. The new Lunch menu is a great way for you to try the culinary delights at Karma Asian Fusion in Winchester. I will definitely be returning. 

However, there was one issue that occurred on my second visit. On my first visit, the service was excellent and it was a fine dining experience. No complaints whatsoever. On my second visit, the service was a little lacking, primarily as the server also worked as the bartender, so wasn't able to properly devote his time to all of his tables. For example, when my Fried Wonton were brought, the sauce was missing. I gave him a couple minutes to return with it, but when he didn't reappear, I flagged down another server and asked about the sauce. When my server finally brought the sauce, it was later with my Entree, and the sauce wasn't even the same as the one I received on my initial visit.   

Have you tried the new Lunch menu at Karma in Winchester yet?

Rant: Must Chinese Food Be Cheap?

How must should a Pu Pu Platter cost? Should all Chinese cuisine be "cheap?" Are consumers more concerned about price over quality? 

When I recently posted my latest impressions of Wusong Road, there were some who were adamantly against paying a $50 for Pu Pu Platter for Two. I've seen this attitude frequently over the years, as Chinese cuisine is often viewed as a "cheap" cuisine, and many people don't want to pay high prices for it. Other ethnic foods or specific dishes, from burgers to pizza, are also often seen this same way, that prices should be low and that there's no reason to pay a higher price. 

In general, restaurants operate on very small profit margins. That's a fact that many people need to understand. Their menu prices are not intended to gouge your wallet but rather to support the functioning of the restaurant, to pay the bills, to pay their employees, and to hopefully give at least a small profit to the owner. Those are the same basic objectives of any for-profit business. 

Some people seem to believe that if they can find a food item for a cheap price somewhere, that the same item should be priced similarly everywhere. However, just because you might be able to get a cheeseburger for $5.00 at a large chain restaurant doesn't mean all restaurants should charge that price. There are numerous factors to consider in evaluating the price of a burger and whether it's reasonable or not. The same applies to Chinese Pu Pu platters, and Chinese food in general, as well. 

For example, what is the cost of their ingredients? Are they using lesser quality ingredients? Or are they using higher quality ingredients, so their costs are higher and they have to raise their prices. Would you rather that they used cheaper, lesser quality ingredients? Consider that food ingredients are more expensive nowadays. Anyone who has recently gone to the grocery store should understand that. So, restaurants are paying more for their ingredients and generally need to raise prices. If the price you pay for a Pu Pu platter is still very low, then what quality of ingredients must they be using? You should definitely ponder over that matter.   

In addition, how much work goes into the preparation of the foods on the Pu Pu platter? Were they pre-prepared, in large quantities, or are they made fresh for each order? Are the foods on the platter the usual Chinese appetizers, or are they inventive variations? Is the restaurant a small hole-in-the-wall that only offers take-out (and thus has less overhead) or is it a sit-down restaurant with various servers?  

Wusong Road, a sit-down restaurant and tiki bar, charges $50 for their Pu Pu Platter, but they use higher quality ingredients, and the food items are fresh, tasty and inventive. I consider the price reasonable for what you receive. In comparison, at the famed Kowloon, their basic Peninsular Pu Pu Platter is $37.95, but it's $47.50 with Beef Teriyaki. Wusong Road's price isn't that much different, but I don't often hear complaints about Kowloon's Pu Pu platters prices. Why is that so? In addition, the quality of the food at the Kowloon is inconsistent, so you may be paying that much for a lower quality experience. 

At other Chinese restaurants, you may find a Pu Pu platter for two people for $26-$30, so does that mean the Kowloon is too expensive?   

Consumers need to start paying the true value of the food they consume. They shouldn't expect that certain types of food must always be cheap. Would you be happy charging the lowest price in the market for your own services or products? Stop complaining about the prices of Chinese food and care more about the quality and taste. Don't have a knee-jerk reaction to higher price Chinese food, and actually try to understand the reasons for the price.  

The Origins of Moo Shu Pork in the U.S.

Pork, eggs, mushrooms, and vegetables, all wrapped up in a small, thin pancake, and often spread with or dipped in Hoisin sauce. It's commonly known as Moo Shu Pork, although it's also known by a number of variant spellings, including Mu Shu Pork, Moo Shi Pork, Mu Xu Pork, and Mù Xū Ròu. It can now be found in many different Chinese restaurants across the U.S. It's said to originally be a dish from Northern China, possibly from the province of Shandong.

However, when did this dish first appear in the U.S.?

Most sources claim that Moo Shu Pork first appeared in U.S. restaurants during the second half of the 1960s, however, my own research shows it appeared at least 10 years earlier, at least as far back as 1955. And it's even possible it actually first arrived in the late 1940s.

The first mention of something similarly named to Moo Shu Pork occurred in 1928. The Brooklyn Eagle (NY), February 8, 1928, discussed The Oriental Restaurant, located at 4-6 Pell Street, and noted that, “Adventurers try Moo Char Shu (Pork).” The Brooklyn Eagle (NY), February 22, 1928, then explained this dish, in discussing Hang Far Loo, located at 23 Pell Street. It was said, “Moo Char Shu is roast loin of pork, with mushrooms.” Although it has some similar ingredients to Moo Shu Pork, it isn't the same dish. 

After World War II, restaurants serving Mandarin/Northern Chinese cuisine started to slowly appear across the U.S., and that is when the possibility of Moo Shu Pork appearing was most probable. 

One of the first Northern Chinese restaurants was The Peking Restaurant, in Washington, D.C., which opened in 1947. And the first newspaper reference I found to Moo Shi Pork involved The Peking Restaurant. The Evening Star (D.C.), February 9, 1955, mentioned that the Peking Restaurant was the only "true northern-style kitchen in town." It then continued that they served, “Moo Shi Pork (shredded meat, black mushrooms, Chinese cabbage, bamboo shoots, green onion!) with the PEKING’S famous steamed pancakes.” How to eat dish was also mentioned. “He centers the meat in your pancake, and with a deft turn of the wrist it’s rolled up in a dainty food bundle. And you hoist it up, up for that first thrilling bite.” 

So, in 1955, we have a definite reference to the presence of Moo Shi Pork, about 10 years earlier than most other sources claim. However, this dish might have even been on the initial menu for The Peking back in 1947. The 1955 reference doesn't state this is a brand new dish at the restaurant and refers to their "famous steamed pancakes." It's certainly plausible that The Peking had been serving this dish since its opening, although I haven't been able to confirm it. 

In 1958, the famed Joyce Chen opened her first restaurant, the Joyce Chen Restaurant, in Cambridge, Massachusetts, and it included many Mandarin items. Her menu listed Moo Shi Pork ($2.95). “The classic Mandarin dish prepared with shredded pork, eggs, and Chinese vegetables. Served with six Mandarin pancakes.” Extra pancakes cost 10 cents. And four years later, Chen would become start to become the leader in popularizing this dish across the country. 

The Herald-News (NJ), August 25, 1961, ran a brief advertisement for New China Inn, Inc., at 2 Park Avenue, Rutherford, and mentioned they served “Moo Shu Pork.”

Then, in 1962, Joyce Chen published her first cookbook, Joyce Chen Cook Book (J.B. Lippincott Co., Philadelphia & New York). The book included a recipe for “Mandarin Moo Shi Pork” and there was another section “How To Make Mandarin Pancakes And Eat In Proper Way.” This was probably the first U.S. cookbook to present this recipe. This became a very popular cookbook, and certainly helped to popularize this dish.

The Los Angeles Times, (CA), September 23, 1964, noted that the Peking Restaurant in Inglewood served, “Moo Shu, pork nested in fluffed eggs.” And the Tribune (IL), December 13, 1964, in a brief ad for the Dragon Inn, mentioned they served Moo Shu Pork. For information was provided in the Chicago Tribune (IL), June 18, 1965, which stated that the new Dragon Inn offered “moo-shu pork, thinly sliced and cooked with eggs, bamboo shoots and vegetables, served with gossamer thin pancakes.” Other restaurants, including in New York City, also started offering Moo Shi Pork. 

Another huge boost for Moo Shi Pork came in 1967. The Boston Globe (MA), May 7, 1967, provided Joyce Chen's recipe for Mandarin Pancakes, noting that she would demonstrate this recipe on her television cooking show. The article stated, “The Mandarin thin pancake is one of the popular foods in Peking. It is served with famous Peking Duck and some meat, egg and some vegetables dishes such as Moo Shi Pork.” The information and recipe came from Chen's cookbook. 

A week later, the Boston Globe (MA), May 14, 1967, then provided Joyce Chen's recipe for Moo-Shi Pork, again taken from her cookbook and also set to be demonstrated during her cooking show. The article stated, “Moo-shi pork is a famous dish in Peking. The name comes from the small pieces of egg in this dish which look like Moo-shi flowers, tiny yellow flowers with a sweet fragrance. Traditionally, Moo-shi pork is served with Mandarin pancakes and, since the pancake is dry, we need a soup to accompany it.” The ingredients for Moo Shi Pork included shredded lean pork (or instead use chicken, seafood or beef), dried Chinese wood ears (black fungus), dried golden needles (tiger lily), dry Sherry, soy sauce, MSG, corn starch, cooking oil, ginger root, scallion, salt, and eggs. “When Moo-shi pork is served at the restaurants it is enriched by adding mushrooms, bamboo shoots and cabbage.”

In 1968, Joyce Chen's recipe for Moo Shi Pork, was republished in several newspapers across the country, from Georgia to California. In addition, her cooking show about Moo Shi Pork was replayed numerous times through 1971, all across the country, exposing many people to this dish. During those years, over 95% of the newspaper references to Moo Shi Pork were connected to Joyce Chen. It's clear she played a dominant role in popularizing this dish across the country.

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In the U.S., Moo Shi Pork extends back at least to 1955, to Washington, D.C., about 10 years earlier than many other sources have claimed, although there's a good possibility that it might even extend back to 1947. In 1958, the dish was served at Joyce Chen's restaurant in Cambridge, MA, and she would spearhead efforts to popularize this dish, from her cookbook in 1962 to her television cooking show from 1967-1971. 

What's your favorite restaurant for Moo Shi Pork? 

The History of Cashew Chicken & Springfield-Style Cashew Chicken

About a week ago, the Fodor's Travel website posted an article, The Ozark Town Where Cashew Chicken Was Invented by Erika Ebsworth-Goold (August 12, 2024). The article stated, "Springfield also has an unexpected culinary claim to fame. It’s the birthplace of a beloved takeout classic: cashew chicken." This referred to Springfield, Missouri, and the article also noted, "It turns out the creation was first cooked up more than six decades ago at a Springfield tea house." This was the tale of David Leong, a Chinese immigrant, who owned Leong's Tea House, which opened in 1963. 

The problem is that this story is misleading, and doesn't accurately reflect the truth about the invention of cashew chicken. David Leong plays an important role in the history of cashew chicken, but it requires further explanation.

First, and importantly, cashew chicken is a traditional Chinese dish, sometimes referred to as 腰果鸡丁, (Yāoguǒ jī). To the Chinese, cashews resemble the golden ingots that once were used as a form of currency, so they are consumed during the Chinese New Year, hoping for prosperity for the New Year. However, the traditonal dish is commonly stir-fried in a wok, using small pieces of chicken, with vegetables and roasted cashews, in a light sauce. David Leong clearly didn't invent this dish. So, what did he invent?

The earliest reference I found in the U.S. for "cashew chicken" was in the Chula Vista Star (CA), May 28, 1948. The above advertisement indicated that Dock's served American and Chinese cuisine, and one of their dishes included “Cashew Chicken" for $1.50. 

A few years later, the first recipe appeared in an ad in The Independent, January 25, 1951. The Food Bowl Market offered a recipe for “Chicken-Cashew Nut.” 

However, apparently not all chicken cashew dishes had a Chinese origin. For example, The Patriot News (PA), October 7, 1951, published an article on amateur poultry cooks in Pennsylvania It stated, “Pennsylvania Dutch dishes stopped the poultry show last week in Harrisburg as spectators gazed in wonderment while 28 farm women and two men put together ingredients for tempting poultry and egg dishes.” One of those dishes included “chicken cashew.”

Another example, with a recipe, was included in the Buffalo News (NY), December 11, 1951. There was clearly no Chinese influence in this recipe.

Another non-Chinese influenced recipe was found in The Grand Island Independent (NE), August 21, 1952. This recipe was also printed in newspapers in California, Florida and Wisconsin. 

In the Complete Chicken Cookery (1953) by Marian Tracy, there was another recipe, for a dish that wasn't Chinese inspired.  

The Merced Sun-Star (CA), March 3, 1955, published an advertisement for The Grange Company, noting “Better Feed for California Chickens.” The ad also mentioned, “Sometime in the last 4,000 years a Chinese genius sampled his latest culinary experiment and delightedly announced “This is it!” A recipe for "Chicken with Pineapple and Cashew Nuts." This is the first recipe where the chicken was fried in a batter, and coated with crushed cashew nuts. The recipe is also very different from the traditional Chinese version. 

The fact the chicken in this recipe was fried in a batter is important as over 11 years later, David Leong would become famous for frying his chicken pieces in his cashew chicken dish. It doesn't seem likely that David would have seen this recipe as he was living in Missouri at the time, and probably wouldn't have been reading California newspapers. 

As for Chinese versions of cashew chicken, the Ogden Standard-Examiner (UT), March 8, 1956, briefly mentioned Yu Tou Guy Ding (diced chicken with cashew nuts). In the Daily Palo Alto Times (CA), September 24, 1956, there was an ad from Ming's, a Cantonese restaurant. It mentioned a Typical Family Dinner for Four, and one of the dishes was “Cashew Chicken.” The Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), February 23, 1957, also had a restaurant ad, for Mok Larn Chein restaurant, with a large menu and one of the items was “Cashew nut chicken” for $1.50. 

The Chicago Tribune (IL), November 18, 1957, published a recipe for Chicken Cashew, a "$5 Favorite Recipe" from one of their readers. This recipe obviously was inspired by Chinese recipes. 

The Stockton Evening and Sunday Record (CA), May 9, 1958, ran an ad for Minnie’s, which offered Chinese-American dishes, including “Cashew Chicken Mandarin.” The Journal Herald (OH), September 26, 1958, in a discussion of Chinese restaurants in San Francisco, briefly mentioned "cashew chicken." 

More details came in The Peninsula Times Tribune (CA), February 25, 1959. The newspaper provide a recipe for a Cantonese dish, cashew chicken, which came from Ming restaurant's chef Mee Wah Jung. The article also noted, “The cashew chicken (‘yew dow gai kow’) is cubes of boned chicken, marinated and toss-cooked with crisp cashews from India, onions and bamboo shoots.” This was basically a more traditional version of the dish. 

The Independent (CA), March 27, 1959, had an ad for New China Tea Garden, offering “Cashew Nut Chicken Chow Yuke” for $1.55. The Daily Illini (IL), June 3, 1959, also had an ad for the new Hong Kong Restaurant, with a specialty of Cashew Chicken. The Anaheim Gazette (CA), February 12, 1960, mentioned the Crow’s Restaurant in Long Beach, a Chinese-American restaurant, which served “Cashew Nut Chicken.” During the next couple years, cashew chicken would be mentioned in a number of other ads for Chinese-American restaurants, and there would be other traditional recipes provided as well.  

The Douglas County Gazette (NE), October 12, 1962, offered an interesting recipe variation called "Cashew Chicken Casserole."

Eight Immortal Flavors (1963), a Chinese cookbook, by Johnny Kan & Charles L. Leong, contained a recipe for "Cashew Chicken (Yew Dow Gai Kow)," which was similar to their Walnut Chicken recipe, but with cashews instead of walnuts. This was again, a very traditional recipe. 

And it's also in 1963, that the tale of a new version of Cashew Chicken began, although the origins of that tale extend back over twenty years. Many sources claim that David Leong invented cashew chicken in 1963, but in actuality, he only invented a fried variation of it. And the actual year of that invention is in question.  

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Around 1940, David Leong, a native of China, immigrated to the United States and soon became a naturalized citizen. During World War II, he was drafted and served during the invasion of Normandy. After the war, David started working in restaurants on the East Coast and in the South, including in New Orleans, Florida, and New York. 

In 1955, David was working at a Chinese restaurant in Florida. There are two different versions of what happened next, although the end result was the same. The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), May 1, 1977, stated that Dr. John L.K. Tsang, a physician in Springfield, Missouri, desired Chinese cuisine in Springfield so he advertised in a Chinese newspaper nationwide. David Leong read the advertisement and persuaded Gee, his brother, to move with him to Springfield, to work in a restaurant and serve Chinese cuisine.

However, six years later, the Springfield Leader and Press (MO), September 21, 1983, provided a different version of this event.  The article claimed that in 1955, Dr. Tsang visited Pensacola, Florida and patronized the restaurant where David worked. Dr. Tsang was so impressed with the food that he convinced David, and his brother, to return to Springfield with him and work in a restaurant there. Whichever version is true, the end result was the same, with David and Gee Leong moving to Missouri to work in a restaurant preparing Chinese cuisine.

The Springfield News-Leader (MO), August 24, 1955, reported that the Lotus Garden restaurant would open that week, offering Chinese and American cuisine. The restaurant was owned by Dr. Tsang, who was said to have employed “a Chinese born-chef who served with the U.S. Army in combat action on the European fronts during World War II.” Neither David Leong or his brother Gee were mentioned by name in the article, although this would be the first restaurant in Springfield they worked in.

The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), January 14, 1956, presented an ad for Lotus Garden, which listed some of their Chinese dishes, from egg rolls to chicken chow mein. 

It seems Dr. Tsang soon after sold the restaurant to Win Yin Leong, who didn't seem related to David Leong. David continued to work at the Lotus Gardens into 1957, although he would move to another restaurant early in 1958.  

The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), April 14, 1958, presented the above advertisement for The Grove, a supper club, where the food was “authentically prepared by David Leong.” David appears to have been the primary chef rather than his brother Gee, as Gee was not mentioned in connection with either Lotus Garden or The Grove. 

A terrible accident! The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), August 7, 1960, reported that a vehicle, a 1960 Pontiac, struck The Grove restaurant. The damage was significant, creating an 8 foot wide and 5 foot high hole in one of the restaurant walls and also causing a minor gas explosion. The vehicle also pinned two cooks, David Leong, age 39, and Yuen Leong, age 28 (this might actually be Gee), to a wall. Both of them sustained second and third degree burns and were taken to the hospital, although they were quickly treated and then released, so the injuries may not have been as significant as they seemed. The vehicle also caused about $10,000 in property damages, which included about $2,000 in dishes. 

A few years later, David and Gee decided to establish their own restaurant. The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), May 12, 1963, reported that David and Gee had plans in the works to open a new Chinese-American restaurant in Springfield. The newspaper noted, “Two Chinese brothers, both cooks, and both already well-known in the Ozarks and nationwide for their original Chinese dishes, will be the owners and operators of the establishment.”

The new restaurant, Leong's Tea House was supposed to open in mid-November, 1963, but an explosion changed those plans. The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), November 18, 1963, reported that someone placed about 10 sticks of dynamite next to a wall of the soon-to-open restaurant. The above photograph shows some of the results of the explosion. The Springfield News-Leader (MO), November 19, 1963, added more information. The property damages were estimated at $2000-$2500, and the building owner, Lee McLean, offered a $1500 reward for information on the bombers. The police believed the dynamite was placed or thrown, maybe in a metal container, at the base of a 8-foot square plastic window. The Leongs had not received any prior threats, and the police didn't have any suspects. Curiously, the two 75-pound stone lions, which were in the front of the restaurant, had also been stolen that same night.  

Arrests made! The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), December 5, 1963, stated that three men had been arrested for “grand stealing” for the theft of the 2 stone lions. The men included Walter Lewis Phillips., III (age 23), Dennis Earl Nelson (age 20), and Ralph Warren Crover (age 37). The three men, pictured above, are posing with the stone lions and certainly don’t look remorseful. 

More information came from the Springfield News-Leader (MO), December 5, 1963. Dennis, a delivery man, and Walter, who designed costume jewelry, admitted to stealing the stone lions. The police then followed up and arrested Ralph, a cosmetologist. However, results of lie detector tests cleared them of any connection to the bombing. It seemed that the theft was merely a strange coincidence. The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), January 13, 1964, then reported that the three defendants pled guilty to new charges of malicious destruction of property and were fined $25 plus costs. 

It didn't appear that the identify of the bomber or bombers was ever solved, and there weren't any other similar incidents. 

The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), December 8, 1963, mentioned that Leong’s Tea House had just opened and the above photo shows the exterior of the restaurant.

The Springfield News-Leader (MO), January 1, 1964, printed the first advertisement for Leong’s Tea House, but it didn't mention cashew chicken. Another ad in the Springfield Leader and Press (MO), January 5, 1964, mentioned that they served Special Sunday dinners including Southern Fried Chicken, and also offered “Delicious Chinese Foods.” Additional advertisements in 1964 for the restaurant continued to mention Southern Fried Chicken, and only a single Chinese dish: "Chow Steaks, Kew." That dish was described as "Sliced Beef Tenderloin With Chinese Vegetables and Pea Pod Mushrooms."

The first mention of cashew chicken at the restaurant was in July 1965, about a year and a half after its opening. The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), July 13, 1965, mentioned that a wedding party was held at Leong’s and they had a menu of cashew chicken and rice. Did David serve cashew chicken when his restaurant first opened in December 1963? And if he did, was it the traditional version? When did David first serve his own variation, where the chicken was battered and fried? It doesn't appear there is any documentary evidence to answer all of these questions. 

There is some information that Leong's Tea House might not have done well at the start, as the populace wasn't too willing to embrace Chinese cuisine. Allegedly, that is when David decided to create some Chinese dishes that appealed more to American tastes. Their Southern Fried Chicken might have been a big seller, so David may have then decided to alter the traditional cashew chicken dish and fried the chicken rather than stir-fry it. So, David's version of cashew chicken might not have been invented until 1964, 1965, or even later. 

The next mention of cashew chicken wouldn't be for another year, when the Springfield Leader and Press (MO), July 28, 1966, noted that another wedding party had a luncheon at Leong and their menu included cashew chicken. The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), September 9, 1966, also mentioned a luncheon meeting with a menu including “cashew chicken.” The Polk County Times (MO), February 9, 1967, had a similar mention. None of these mentions indicated that the cashew chicken was of the fried chicken variation. 

The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), June 5, 1967, presented an ad for The Grove restaurant which mentioned that one of their Chinese dinners included “Cashew Chicken, Egg Foo Young, Steamed Rice” for $1.95. Was this the traditional dish, or had The Grove adopted David's fried chicken variation? Unfortunately, the ad doesn't provide an answer.

Another Springfield restaurant serving cashew chicken! The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), October 31, 1971, noted that the House of Cheong, a Chinese American Restaurant, had recently opened by Cheong Leong, who had 18 years of experiences in the Chinese restaurant business. Cashew chicken was one of their offerings, although again we don't know whether this was the traditional dish or not. 

Leong's Tea House and David Leong received much attention in a lengthy newspaper article in May 1977, about 13 1/2 years after the restaurant's opening. The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), May 1, 1977, began by explaining that Springfield, Missouri had a population of about 146,000, and “has perhaps become the Chinese restaurant capital of the Midwest.” The article also added, “we’re guessing Springfield has more Chinese food outlets per capita” than other major cities.  

The article then stated, “What may surprise many is that the cashew chicken dish served in nearly all of these restaurants originated in Springfield.” The article also explained the two types of cashes chicken. “True, it has a real Chinese counterpart, but the crusty chicken bits, served with rice and oyster sauce so familiar to Springfield diners is David Leong’s version of a steamed chicken dish served in Hong Kong.” David felt that “Americans won’t eat steamed fish or chicken” so he decided to fry it instead in his dish. The exact date of that invention wasn't specified.  

The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), January 3, 1979, provided an article about Gee Leong, and included a recipe for Crispy Cashew Chicken, which would probably be similar to the dish they served at their restaurant. 

The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), September 21, 1983, presented some confusing information. It began with, “About two decades ago, believe it or not, there was no cashew chicken. Not in Springfield. Not even in China.” This was clearly untrue, and the article even contradicted itself, stating, “And knowing the American palate to be fond of fried foods, Leong took a Cantonese steamed chicken dish and adapted it a bit. He dipped the boneless chicken chunks in a tempura-style batter, fried them, covered them with oyster sauce, chopped green onions and cashews, and served them on a bed of rice.” That statement indicated cashew chicken was a Cantonese dish, which David put his on spin on. 

David's variation acquired its own identity. The Columbia Daily Tribune (MO), February 28, 1984, provided the first mention of “Springfield-Style Cashew Chicken,” which was an homage to David Leong. Over time, that name would spread across the country, so everyone understood what Springfield-Style meant. 

The Springfield Leader and Press (MO), April 19, 1989, mentioned that there were about 350 restaurants in Springfield, considering all of the various cuisines, and that about 53 of those restaurants offered cashew chicken. The Daily Journal (MA), May 1, 1990, noted that Springfield had acquired the unofficial nickname of “Cashew Chicken Capital of the Midwest.” The article also noted that a local newspaper columnist had done some calculations, estimating that Springfield restaurants served at least  6697-8554 dishes of cashew chicken each day, averaging 2.4 -3.1 million a year. The article continued,  “Chefs here dip the chicken in batter, deep-fat fry it, smother it with a thick brown sauce made from chicken stock and soy sauce, add cashews and a few bits of green onion and serve the concoction beside a bed of fried rice.”

David Leong may not have invented cashew chicken but his fried variation has achieved its own element of immortality, becoming extremely popular and spreading across the country. David's variation has existed for about 60 years and its popularity has probably never been greater. It's best to refer to his creation as “Springfield-Style Cashew Chicken,” to differentiate it from the classic version. 

Do you prefer the traditional Cashew Chicken or the newer Springfield-style Cashew Chicken?

The Origins of Chicken Fingers: Traditional & Chinese

This Saturday, July 27, is National Chicken Finger Day! Back in 2010, Raising Canes invented this holiday to celebrate the chicken finger, which is their specialty. 

When were chicken fingers invented? Did they originate in Chinese-American restaurants? Let's explore these questions, and others, and seek out its true origins. 

Many sources claim that chicken fingers, and usually referred to as chicken tenders, were invented at the Puritan Backroom restaurant in Manchester, New Hampshire, back in 1974. However, other sources note that there are other contenders for their invention. Nowadays, there are technical differences between chicken fingers and tenders, as fingers can be made from any part of the chicken breast while tenders must come from a muscle located beneath the breast which is called the pectoralis minor or inner filet. Back in 1974, when the term "chicken tenders" was first used, that difference didn't exist. 

There were multiple references, extending at least back to the 1940s and earlier, in newspapers to "chicken fingers" although they failed to mentioned whether they were fried chicken fingers or not. So, it's difficult to accept those references as applicable to our inquiries. 

However, 1966 was a key year in the history of chicken fingers, as there's mention of fried chicken fingers in multiple states. The Standard-Speaker (PA), February 12, 1966, published an advertisement for Mussari’s Sun Valley Restaurant which offered a dish of "French Fried Chicken Fingers with spaghetti pasta, tossed salad, rolls and butter." This clearly predated the Puritan's claim. 

The Valley News (NH), April 2, 1966, had an ad for The Green Lantern Inn, located in Hanover, which offered “Fried Chicken Fingers” in a Supreme Sauce. So, we already find fried chicken fingers in New Hampshire, at least 8 years before their alleged invention by Puritan. 

The Daily Item (MA), August 12, 1966, ran an article about the Chickland Barbecue in Saugus, and one of their specialities included a “chicken finger plate.”  The Birmingham Post-Herald (AL), April 25, 1968, detailed a buffet dinner with “chicken fingers (strips of chicken breasts).” 

The Houston Chronicle (TX), May 28, 1970, provided the above recipe, maybe the first printed recipe in a newspaper. This was published four years before the alleged invention by Puritan. 

With all of these references, it's absolutely clear that Puritan didn't invent chicken fingers. At best, they coined the term "chicken tenders" and helped popularize them. However, I'll also add that all of the newspapers I've reviewed from the 1970s didn't mention Puritan and its alleged invention of chicken tenders.

Now, all of these chicken fingers appear to have been fried as normal, like regular fried chicken, and what we now find at places like Raising Canes, Kentucky Fried Chicken, and many other fast casual fried chicken spots. I'll refer to them as traditional chicken fingers. 

However, Chinese Chicken Fingers usually are prepared differently, with a thicker fried batter, and an amount of air between the batter and the chicken. Such an air pocket generally doesn't exist in traditional chicken fingers. Chinese chicken fingers bear similarity to the preparation for Chinese fried shrimp, often found on Pu-Pu platters. I'll also note that sometimes Chinese chicken fingers are simply known as "Golden Fingers."

So when did Chinese chicken-fingers first appear? Interestingly, they too predate's Puritan's alleged invention in 1974.

Interestingly, the first reference I found to "golden fingers" dealt with shrimp. The Florida Today (FL), January 18, 1970, published an ad for the Hong Kong Restaurant which offered “Golden Finger Shrimp.”

The first documented reference to "golden fingers," which likely was chicken, was from 1971. The Portsmouth Herald (NH), April 24, 1971, had an ad, pictured above, mentioning free “Fried Golden Fingers”with dinner. 

The Transcript-Telegram (MA), May 17, 1972, also had an advertisement for a Chinese restaurant offering “Golden Fingers.”

    

And the first mention of "chicken fingers" came in 1972. The Post-Star (NY), September 12, 1972, published an advertisement for the Peking Restaurant. The ad mentioned their lunch menu and special combination dishes, including the "No.4 Chicken Fingers, Chow Mein and Fried Rice."

Now, golden fingers/chicken fingers certainly could have existed prior to 1971, but they didn't apparently garner any mention in the newspapers until 1971. 

Curiously, the Biddeford-Saco Journal (ME), November 27, 1972, printed an ad for Ying’s Chinese restaurant, mentioning their lunch menu and special combination dishes. This included the "No.4 Chicken Fingers, Chow Mein and Fried Rice." It's an unusual coincidence that two restaurants, in different states, offered the exact same lunch combination. And in fact, all seven of the lunch combinations were the same. It seems likely that the same owners might have been connected to both of these restaurants.  

The Boston Globe (MA), June 17, 1973, discussed the two new Ocean Kai restaurants, one in Hingham and one in South Boston. They offered appetizers including egg rolls, pork strips, barbecued spare ribs and “the most unusual fried chicken fingers.” This seems to imply that chicken fingers might have been a relatively new dish in local Chinese restaurants.  

There were more local mentions of chicken fingers, and during the 1970s, many of the newspaper references would be for Massachusetts. The Boston Herald (MA), December 25, 1973, noted that the Hong Kong restaurant in Harvard Square served chicken fingers. The Boston Globe (MA), June 9, 1974, discussed the famed Kowloon Restaurant, in Saugus, and that they also served fried chicken fingers. 

Texas chicken fingers! The Houston Chronicle (TX), August 30, 1974, mentioned that a Houston Chinese restaurant offered, “An imaginative pu pu platter forms an appetizer tray of ribs, chicken fingers, shrimp and rumaki.” This is the first mention of a connection between chicken fingers and pu pu platters. 

In my prior article, Origins of the Pu-Pu Platter, I noted that the first mentions of the contents of Pu-Pu platters were from the 1950s. One menu stated it included only Fried Shrimp, Egg Roll, Won Ton and Spareribs while another menu mentioned it included Tim Sam (dumplings), Shrimp Vela (fried shrimp with coconut), Egg Rolls, Barbecued Spare Ribs, and Rumaki. In 1961, Bob Lee's Islander, located in Boston, served Pu-Pu Platters "heaped with shrimp puffs, fried won-ton, rumaki, barbecued spare ribs, fried shrimp and barbecued chicken wings,...”

As we can see, chicken fingers weren't initially included in these early Pu-Pu platters. The closest item were the fried shrimp, which were fried in a similar batter to what would eventually be used for chicken fingers. Eventually, chicken fingers would become a staple in many Pu-Pu platters but that would take time.

The Philadelphia Inquirer (PA), October 6, 1974, printed a Chinese restaurant review, noting their Pu Pu Platter had “golden fingers (chicken breasts rolled in batter).”    

Two more Golden Finger mentions. The Nashua Telegraph (NH), February 13, 1975, printed a Chinese restaurant ad, mentioning "golden fingers" while the Rapid City Journal (SD), September 19, 1975, also printed a Chinese restaurant ad, mentioning “Golden Finger.”

The Evening Gazette (MA), February 2, 1976, published a restaurant ad, noting, “Deep Fried Chicken Fingers. Served with white rice and tangy sweet n’ sour sauce.” This is the first mention of the pairing of fingers and a sweet and sour sauce, which would eventually become a norm. The Sun (MA), September 16, 1976, discussed the Chow Chow Cup restaurant in Chelmsford, noting it offered “chicken fingers topped with the tangiest sweet and sour sauce this side of Peking.” 

And The Jewish Advocate (MA), October 7, 1976, in an ad for the Diamond Head restaurant, offered a dinner special with chicken fingers, egg rolls, spareribs, fried rice, chicken chow mein and pepper steak.  

More mentions outside Massachusetts. The Daily Camera (CO), October 11, 1976, ran an ad for the  McDuck’s restaurant which offered “Sweet & Sour Chicken Fingers” which were “chicken fingers fried in tempura batter, and served with rice and a tempting sweet & sour sauce.” The Playground Daily News (FL), December 16, 1976, had an ad for Miss Chen Authentic Chinese Foods, which sold appetizers like chicken fingers, eggrolls, fried wonton and Formosa meatballs.  

The Clarion-Ledger (MS), January 2, 1977, published a Chinese restaurant ad, noting their Pu Pu Platter came with egg roll, BBQ spare ribs, Chinese roast pork, braised chicken wings, and chicken fingers. The St. Paul Daily Press (MN), March 20, 1977, had an ad for the Bali-Hai, a Polynesian-Chinese restaurant, with a dinner special of Chicken Fingers, Porkstrips, Chow Mein, and Fried Rice. The Transcript-Telegram (MA), September 30, 1977, had a Chinese restaurant ad offering a Pu Pu platter with “golden fingers.”

As an aside, it's interesting to note that the Indianapolis Star (IN), October 2, 1977, briefly mentioned that, “The latest British delicacy, rivaling fish and chips in popularity….is ‘chicken fingers’ made of chopped, breaded and deep-fried chicken.” Did chicken fingers actually originate in England? That's an issue I need to research more.   

The Plain Dealer (OH), February 3, 1978, presented a Chinese restaurant ad, which mentioned their “golden fried finger.” The News-Herald (OH), March 10, 1978, had a Chinese restaurant review, which noted a “fried-chicken type dish called Golden Fingers.”

The St. Paul Dispatch (MN), June 29, 1978, noted the grand opening of the Tahitian Room and Aloha Lounge, which served a Pu-Pu platter of chicken fingers, shrimp, beef teriyaki, egg rolls, and spare ribs. 

The Post-Star (NY), September 22, 1978, had a Chinese restaurant ad which offered “golden finger” while the Standard-Speaker (PA), September 30, 1978, also had a Chinese restaurant ad, but offering “golden fingers” on their Pu Pu platter. 

The Star Tribune (MN), February 1, 1979, also mentioned the Bali Hai restaurant again, noting they served, “Chicken Fingers, pieces of white meat coated in batter and deep-fat fried—terrific with the sweet and sour sauce” The Muncie Evening Press (IN), October 26, 1979, briefly mentioned a Chinese restaurant that had Chicken Fingers as an appetizer. The Penascola New Journal (FL), January 11, 1980, stated that traditional Chinese dishes in the area including chicken fingers. 

So, we see that the history of Chinese Chicken Fingers/Golden Fingers extends back at least to 1971 and that they were not just a Massachusetts dish, but we have little evidence of the reasons why they were created. As they are similar to Chinese fried shrimp, it's possible that shrimp was becoming more expensive (which it was during that time period), and that chicken was a less expensive substitute. Second, the popularity of fried chicken, and the creation of chicken fingers at least as far back as 1966, may have motivated Chinese restaurants to capitalize on that growing popularity. And maybe, chicken appealed more to children than shrimp, so this was a way to get more families to dine at Chinese restaurants. 

What is your favorite place for traditional chicken fingers? What is your favorite restaurant for Chinese chicken fingers?

(Revised/expanded as of July 26, 2024, to add references about "golden fingers.")