Showing posts sorted by relevance for query pupu platter. Sort by date Show all posts
Showing posts sorted by relevance for query pupu platter. Sort by date Show all posts

Tuesday, October 19, 2021

Origins of the Pu-Pu Platter

In an advertisement in the Boston Globe, October 14, 1982Bob Lee's Islander restaurant claimed "We invented The Pupu Platter.” Is this true?

According to Wikipedia, "The pupu platter was probably first introduced to restaurants on the United States mainland by Donn Beach in 1934." In addition, it notes, "The earliest known print reference to a pupu platter served at a Chinese restaurant is from 1969." Are either of those true?

What's the actual truth behind the origins of the Pu-Pu Platter?

There’s no question that the term “Pu-Pu” derives from the Hawaiian word, pū-pū, which refers to “appetizers.” Originally, pū-pū only referred to shellfish, but eventually expanded to a variety of other foods as well. 

During the 1950s, a number of Hawaiian newspapers mentioned pu-pu. For example, the Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), April 10, 1954, in describing the Ginza restaurant on Honolulu, stated, “.., there’s a tempting array of pupu—LOVE that word!—chasers in the form of shrimp tempura, sashimi, abalone, and umpteen varieties of Japanese pickles and vegetables.”

The Honolulu Advertiser (HI), January 22, 1955, detailed Les Gourmets de Pupu. The article stated, “Believing that one way to eliminate the problem of dinner is to concentrate exclusively on hors d’oeuvres, a group of dedicated young couples formed one of Honolulu’s most unusual clubs several years ago.” The article continued, “They hold that dinner uses up space, confuse the issue and adds dishes to wash.” The group held monthly epicurean dinners, specializing in pupus, “the Hawaiian approximation for hors d’oeuvres.” 

Travel back about twenty years, and in 1933, Don’s Beachcomber, likely the first Polynesian “Tiki” bar, opened in Hollywood, and in 1937, the bar moved across the street and became a restaurant as well. Around this same time, Victor Bergeron Jr. opened his own Polynesian bar & restaurant which would become known as Trader Vic’s.

It would seem to make sense that maybe one of these restaurants, which popularized Polynesian-Chinese cuisines, invented Pu-Pu platters, using the Hawaiian word to refer to their own collection of appetizers. If they did so, when did that occur? Was it when they first opened or was it sometime later?

Tthe evidence on behalf of Don the Beachcomber being the first to create a Pu-Pu Platter seems to be lacking. For example, I’ve examined three menus from Don the Beachcomber, from 1954-1965 (Menu 1Menu 2, and Menu 3), and there was not a single mention of Pu-Pu Platters, which makes no sense if Don invented it

As for Trader Vic's, he wrote a book, Trader Vic's Book of Food and Drink (1946) and it doesn't mention the Pu-Pu Platter either. However, there's a Menu from the 1950s (although a specific year is not mentioned) for their Honolulu location, and it had a category for Hot Pupus: Polynesian Hors d'Oeuvres. There was also a listing for PuPu Platter ($2.50), with Fried Shrimp, Egg Roll, Won Ton and Spareribs

As such, this might be the first restaurant documented to have served a Pu-Pu Platter, and provides at least some evidence that Trader Vic's might have invented the Pu-Pu Platter. I'll note though that it doesn't appear that Trader Vic's has made that claim for themselves. Trader Vic's has claimed to have invented the Mai Tai, so why wouldn't they make that same claim for the Pu-Pu Platter if it was applicable?

In 1957, a couple locations of the Luau 400, a Polynesian restaurant opened in New York City and Pennsylvania. The Daily News (NY), December 5, 1957, mentioned that the menu at Luau 400 included a Pu Pu Platter, with Tim Sam (dumplings), Shrimp Vela (fried shrimp with coconut), Egg Rolls, Barbecued Spare Ribs, and Rumaki. This might be the first newspaper mention of a restaurant serving a Pu-Pu Platter. 

As the Trader Vic's menu doesn't have a specific year, it is certainly possible that Luau 400 was the first restaurant to offer a Pu-Pu Platter and that Trader Vic's followed closely behind them, starting to offer a Pu-Pu Platter in 1958 or 1959. 

So what about the claim of Boston's Bob Lee's Islander? Around 1951, Bob Lee, a native of Canton, China, opened Bob Lee's Lantern House on Tyler Street in Boston's Chinatown. At first, it only had seven tables, although it would grow over the years, with its first expansion starting around April 1952. At that time, the restaurant served only typical Cantonese cuisine.

It wouldn't be until 1961, that Bob Lee's Lantern would add Polynesian cuisine and cocktails. The Boston Daily Record, January 2, 1961 noted the opening of the new Aloha cocktail lounge at Bob Lee’s Lantern House. The Boston American, May 15, 1961, mentioned that at this new Aloha lounge, you could find "tasty Polynesian-Chinese food and cocktails." 

By September 1961, the name of the restaurant was changed to Bob Lee's Islander, embracing the Tiki mystique. The Boston American, September 18, 1961, had an advertisement for this name change, noting they served “Exotic Polynesian Drinks, Finest Chinese Food."

The Boston Record American, December 20, 1961, had a full page advertisement for the restaurant, noting that the decor included:“Thatched roofs, Polynesian masks, ceramic figures and symbols, lush broadleaved foliage and a handsome tropical mural..” One of the items you could order were the “intriguing Pu-Pu Platters heaped with shrimp puffs, fried won-ton, rumaki, barbecued spare ribs, fried shrimp and barbecued chicken wings,..

It's important to note that at this time, Bob Lee's Islander didn't claim to be the inventor of the Pu-Pu Platter, which you would have expected them to have done if it were true. They had a full page advertisement, so plenty of room to add that information if it were correct. However, we have already seen there were Pu-Pu Platters at least as far back as the 1950s, before Bob Lee could have invented it in 1961. 

During the 1970s, Bob Lee ran into some legal problems. First, in late 1976 and early 1977, his restaurant had been found in violation of the health codes and was shut down for a day. According to the Boston Globe, February 9, 1977, he then planned to sue the city for violating his civil rights. He stated that three other restaurants which had also failed health inspections, Anthony’s Pier 4, Locke-Ober and Polcari's, had only been given warnings. His was the only restaurant shut down. He also claimed this was the restaurant's first violation in its 25 years. However, because of the public nature of the health allegations, Bob Lee also stated he had lost much business.

A year later, the Boston Globe, April 11, 1978, reported that Bob Lee had been charged with 3 counts of tax evasion for understating his taxable earnings by $158,680 from 1971-1973. The Boston Globe, May 10, 1978, then reported that Bob pled guilty to 1 count of tax evasion. He was sentenced to one year in jail, three months to serve and the rest suspended. Plus, he was fined $10,000 and had to pay the  back taxes, plus 6% interest and a fraud penalty of 50% of the overdue taxes. 

It wasn't until 1982 (in the ad at the top of this page) that Bob Lee's Islander made their first documented claim to have been the inventor of the Pu-Pu Platter. Why did they wait so long, at least twenty years, to make this claim? Why isn't there any earlier documented references to their alleged invention? And as Ive already pointed out, Bob Lee's Islander didn't exist until 1961, and there were  documented references to Pu-Pu platters in the 1950s. So their claim cannot be true.

At this time, the first documented references to Pu-Pu Platters were from the 1950s, including a Trader Vic's menu and a 1957 newspaper article about the Luau 400. From 1961 through the early 1960s, other restaurants, in New Jersey, Vermont and Hawaii, would also start offering Pu-Pu Platters (including the flaming Pu-Pu Platter. 

More research would be beneficial to seek the actual inventor of the Pu-Pu Platter, but we can at least state definitively it wasn't Bob Lee and it seems very unlikely that it was Don’s Beachcomber either. Trader Vic's and Luau 400 are in the running as potential inventors, but more evidence would be needed to determine the fact of the matter. 

Tuesday, March 11, 2025

Wusong Road: A Second Impression

My first visit to Wusong Road, which had been a positive experience, was back in 2022, but I hadn't returned to Harvard Square until recently. On a Friday in February, I visited Harvard Square, checking out the various shops, and I decided to return to Wusong Road for lunch.

Back in 2022, their website stated: "Overall Wusong Road is a Tiki bar where we match old school American Chinese restaurant affordability, plush midcentury modern comfortability and top it off with a splash of rum and good old fashioned hospitality." The website continued, "Wusong Road is not intended to be a ‘political’ or ‘social’ commentary on Tiki culture. Instead, Wusong Road is a celebration on the Asian American restaurant experience that is so engrained in our history and culture."

After three years, some changes were expected, such as alterations to the menu items and higher prices. Other matters haven't changed much, if at all, such as the fun decor. For lunch, you climb the stairs to a dining room on the second floor, where a lengthy bar is also located. It didn't take long for the dining room to get full, so it's obvious the restaurant is popular. 

I began lunch with a Mai Tai ($15, the same price as many of their Tiki cocktails), made with Appleton Estate Rum, Hamilton Rum, Clement Agricole Rhum, Orgeat, Lime, and Orange Curacao. It was delicious, with a noticeable amount of alcohol, although it wasn't overpowering. Certainly a much higher quality than the Mai Tais you get at most Asian spots. 

From Monday to Thursday, from 11:30am- 5pm, you can order a customized Luncheon Pupu (for a single person) for $17. You choose any 3 options, from a list of 20 options, and you also receive a "small seasonal sweet treat." Some of the options include 4 types of fried rice, 3 different Bao, 3 different Summer Rolls; New England Chicken Fingers, and DanDan Noodles. You can also order the Luncheon Pupu with a drink for a special price: Tanuki Tiki Highball ($24), Mai Tai ($25), or Alcohol Free Mai Tai ($24). Thus, you would only pay an extra $8 for a Mai Tai with the Luncheon Pupu.  

However, as it was a Friday, the Luncheon Pupu was not available. So we decided to order their regular Wusong Pupu Platter ($50 for 2 people, $95 for 4 people). The platter includes Teriyaki Steak Tips, Roasted Char Siu Pork Strips, Grilled Street Corn Rangoons, Scallion Pancake Quesadilla with Aguachile, Pan Fried Shanghai Style Dumplings, and Firecracker Shrimp. However, they added Spring Rolls to our platter alsthough they are not listed on the menu as included. I'll note they also sell a Vegetarian Pupu Platter. 

Overall, the food was delicious, fresh and well-made. I think there was plenty of food for two people. This was not the usual pupu platter you find at most Chinese restaurants, with some intriguing variations  on traditional items. 

On the left were Firecracker Shrimp, crispy Gulf shrimp with a Sambal Olek Aioli, a slightly spicy and tasty sauce. On the right were Teriyaki Steak Tips and Roasted Char Siu Pork Strips, both meats being tender and flavorful. The pork strips were more pork chunks, with a nice crispiness from the sauce, not the flat strips you find in other pupu platters. 

On the left, were plump Pan Fried Shanghai Style Dumplings, with a firm and chewy dumpling skin and plentiful of flavorful pork, spices and veggies inside. On the right were the crispy Spring Rolls, with a delicious blend of veggies and spices. Both items were definitely better than the usual dumplings and spring rolls you find at many places.

On the left are the Grilled Street Corn Rangoons, which my dining companion very much enjoyed. I'm not a cream cheese fan so generally dislike rangoons, but the addition of the corn was a nice variation. On the right was the Scallion Pancake Quesadilla with a Queso Oaxaca and Thai Bird Aguachile. The crispy pancakes were filled with lots of melted cheese and a touch of heat from the aguchile. A fun variation of a Mexican dish.

My second visit to Wusong Road was again an impressive visit. The food and drinks are elevated, not what you find at the average Chinese restaurant, and the taste and quality warrant their higher prices. Tiki should be fun, and that fun extends to the kitchen and their playful variations on a number of dishes. I will return again, and hopefully won't wait three years again between my visits. 

Friday, November 8, 2013

Sake, Portland & Gordon Heady

Late on a Friday evening, I looked down onto the city of Portland, Oregon, my belly pleasantly full of Sake. It was the end of a fantastic night with my good friend, Gordon Heady, drinking Sake and dining on Asian cuisine, hitting a few different spots in Portland. Our final destination was Departure Restaurant + Lounge, fifteen floors above street level, and the exterior deck of the lounge looks right out onto the city. With over 35 Sakes on this list, this is a fine place to sip the final ochoko of the evening.

While recently touring the wineries of Oregon, I had a free evening in Portland so made plans to meet up with my friend Gordon Heady, to have dinner and drink Sake. As I have said before, Portland is a great destination for Sake lovers. Gordon had some surprises too, bringing six Sakes for me to taste, including a special competition Sake (pictured above).

As I have written before, Sake competitions are very different from the usual wine competitions with which you may be familiar. For Sake competitions, the producers craft Sake which is generally intended only for the competition, and not for retail sales. Contrast that with wine competitions where they submit wines which are created for retail. Competition Sake is produced in very limited quantities, and a tiny amount of bottles might be given away, or sold in very limited instances. Such Sakes might be priced at $500-$1000 per bottle, due to their rarity, cost of ingredients, quality and the amount of time and effort invested into the production. I have been fortunate to taste about a dozen competition Sakes over the years.

The Sake that Gordon shared with me was brewed by the Momokawa Brewery, located in the Aomori Prefecture. The brewery has won 63 consecutive gold medals at the Nanbu Toji Guild Sake Competitions, more than any other brewery, and has also won numerous golds at other Sake competitions. This particular Sake was a Daiginjo, made with Yamada Nishiki rice with a semibuai of 35% (meaning 65% of the rice kernel was polished away). It was pressed using the rare shizuku ("drip") method, where bags of the sake and lees are tied off at the neck and hung up, so the sake will slowly drip out over time. This is supposed to produce a higher quality Sake, though you also produce less Sake than through other pressing methods. It is also possible that this Sake may have been pasteurized once.

This was the first Sake I tasted of the evening and what a superb way to begin. Sublime, impressive, and inspiring. Such a balanced and harmonious melange, being both rich and light, with intense flavors of green apple, melon, and pear with complex undertones of mild herbs and other elusive flavors. Such amazing depths to this Sake, each taste intriguing and tantalizing my palate. It is a Sake to slowly savor and enjoy, to relish each mouthful of its wonders. Even those with little experience with Sake will understand the high quality and complexity of this brew.

A true friend shares such awesome Sake.

The other five Sakes were all from the portfolio of The Floating World, a small Sake importer based in New Mexico. The company was started in 2011 by Deborah Fleig and Linda Tetrault, who once had a Japanese spa products business. Over time, their interest in Sake grew and it seemed like a natural progression to move toward importing artisan Sake from Japan. They currently import five Sakes, though these are not available in Massachusetts right now. However, that offers an excellent opportunity for an enterprising company to bring them into Massachusetts. Based on my tasting, their portfolio includes some unique and fascinating Sakes.

The Hakugyokko “White Jewel” Junmai Yamahai Muroka Nama Genshu ($32/500ml) is produced by the Kidoizumi Shuzo, which is located in the Chiba Prefecture and was founded in 1897. They are a pioneer of the organic movement in Japan, and use local rice that is grown without chemical fertilizers. They are also the only Sake brewery that uses a Hot-Yamahai method. Usually, yamahai is brewed with cold temperatures, like nearly all Sake, to prevent potential invasion by unwanted bacteria. Kidoizumi developed a special method of cultivating natural lactobacillus and adding it to a starter kept at a very high temperature.

The White Jewel is made from Yamada Nishiki rice, polished down to 60%, and has an SMV of -5, which would tend to make you feel that it would be slightly sweet. However, it also has a high acidity, at +2.1, which tends to make it more dry. This is why you can't rely too much on the SMV (Sake Meter Value) to determine whether a Sake will be sweet or dry, as other factors are involved too, such as acidity.As it is a Muroka Nama Genshu, that means that it undergoes no charcoal filtration, pasteurization or dilution. I am a huge fan of Yamahai Sake, loving its rich umami and earthier flavors.

I would sum up this Sake with a single word: savage. It had a more wild, earthy taste, much more savory and dry. It had a richer mouthfeel, with subtle melon and pear flavors beneath the earthier elements. There was plenty of complexity and depth of flavor, and I would love to have paired this Sake with a mushroom risotto or a leg of lamb. Highly recommended, though probably not something a newcomer to Sake might enjoy.  

The Soma no Tengu “Forest Spirit” Junmai Ginjo Muroka Nama Genshu Usu-nigori ($30/500ml) is produced by the Uehara Shuzowhich is located in the Shiga Prefecture and was founded in 1862. In a number of ways, they are a very traditional brewery, still using wooden presses and fermentation vats as well as some wooden barrels. Most of their Sake is produced with wild yeasts, and they use local rice, about 30 different types, which have been sustainably grown.

The Forest Spirit is made from Yamada Nishiki rice, polished down to 59%, and has an SMV of +6, which would tend to make you feel that it would be dry. As it is a Muroka Nama Genshu, that means that it undergoes no charcoal filtration, pasteurization or dilution. It is also a usu-nigori, which means it is a "thin" nigori which has been pressed so only a minimal amount of the lees end up inside the Sake.

You may be used to sweet nigori Sake, but this will surprise you with its dryness. It is a smooth, easy drinking Sake with mild tropical fruit flavors enhanced with a slight steamed rice taste. It has more depth than many other nigori Sakes, and I much prefer this style over the sweet versions.

The Okarakuchi “Super Dry” Junmai Ginjo Muroka Nama Genshu ($36/500ml) is produced by the Akishika ("Autumn deer) Shuzo, which is located in the Osaka Prefecture and was founded in 1886. Akishika is a small brewery, with a staff of only five people. The Toji, the Sake brew master, is also the owner of the brewery, and now uses only organically grown rice, contracted from local farmers.

The Okarakuchi is made from Yamada Nishiki rice, polished down to 60%, and has an SMV of +18, which would tend to make you feel that it would be very dry. As it is a Muroka Nama Genshu, that means that it undergoes no charcoal filtration, pasteurization or dilution. This Sake is also said to age well, something unusual in the Sake world as most Sake is not produced to be aged.

This was a bone-dry Sake, very crisp and clean, with more subtle, though complex, flavors that nearly elude your palate. You'll find some intriguing fruit flavors, such as pear and melon, and what seems like mineral notes too. Despite its higher alcohol content, it doesn't seem "hot", and I would love to see how this tastes with a year or two of age. This would be an excellent Sake with seafood.

The Kizan Sanban “Kizan #3” Junmai Ginjo Nama Genshu ($37/720ml) is produced by the Chikuma Nishiki Shuzo, which is located in the Nagano Prefecture and was founded in 1681, making it over 330 years old. This is a very cold region, and they use a local rice, Miyama Nishiki, which grows well in this climate. In addition, the brewery has four wells which are sourced from the Chikuma River, which supplies excellent, soft water.

The Kizan is made from Miyama Nishiki rice, polished down to 55%, and has an SMV of -15, which would tend to make you feel that it would be sweet. However, it also has a high acidity, at +3, which tends to make it more dry. As it is a Nama Genshu, that means that it undergoes no pasteurization or dilution.

The high acidity of this Sake meant that it had only a mild sweetness to my palate, and plenty of juicy fruit flavors, from berries to pears. It also is more full bodied, with a rich mouthfeel, and some herbal notes on the finish. This seemed to be the most wine-like of the Sakes, and would probably make a nice entry Sake for wine lovers. With its high acidity, it also is even more food friendly than usual, with a broad range of cuisines.

The Inemankai “Ine’s Full Bloom” Junmai Genshu ($50/720ml) is produced by the Mukai Shuzō, which is located in the Kyoto Prefecture and was founded in 1754, making it over 250 years old. It is still a family owned business and the current Toji is Kuniko, the eldest daughter of the owner and one of the first women in Japan to become a Toji. They are known for creating experimental batches of Sake, with unusual rice types and different yeasts.

The Inemankai, a unique Sake, is made from Gohyakumangoku & Murasaki Komachi (an ancient variety of red rice). Even the polishing is more unusual, with varying rates for different rices. The brewing rice is polished down to 83%, the koji rice is polished down to 73%, and then the red rice is only polished down to 91%. It has an SMV of -5, which would tend to make you feel that it would be a little sweet. However, it also has a high acidity, at +2.3, which tends to make it more dry. As it is a Genshu, that means that it undergoes no dilution though the alcohol content is only about 14%.

I might have had red Sake only once or twice before, so it is a special treat. It possesses an interesting ruby red color and presents a more unusual taste, like smoked fruit, and which Gordon likened to smoked salmon. There is a definite smokiness to the Sake and it is more savory and dry, with a crispness due to the acidity. Its complexity is somewhat enigmatic, as you try to determine the flavors that flit across your palate. Very interesting and I'm glad to see such experimental Sakes.

Note on pricing: Based on the wholesale prices of these Sakes, I have extrapolated the potential retail prices they would possess in Massachusetts, so they are only rough estimations. Prices in other states will likely differ as well.

After tasting through these six compelling Sakes, we wandered off for some dinner and our first stop was Saucebox,which has an intriguing Asian menu. It is a hip looking spot, a cool place for either drinks or dinner. They have over 12 Sakes on their list, including some very good choices. We ordered the Pupu Platter ($24),so we could sample a selection of items, including spring rolls, tapioca dumplings, nigiri trio, ribs, and pork sarong. Everything was fresh and tasty, and the presentation was colorful and enticing. The tapioca dumplings were unique, with a thicker, almost coconut macaroon-like texture to them. The rib meat fell off the bone, and had a delicious Asian flair. This is a place I would like to return again to try more items off their menu.

Our next stop was Masu, a Japanese restaurant which specializes in sushi, and that is what we ordered. Excellent nigiri, fresh, good-sized and flavorful. From sweet tamago to briny sea urchin, this was certainly high quality sushi and I would return here. They carry over 25 Sakes, with plenty of great choices.

We ordered a bottle of Denshin Ine Junmai ($40), which is produced by the Ippongi Kubo Honten brewery (founded in 1902) in the Chubu region of the Fukui prefecture. The brewery sits at the base of Mt. Haku, deep in Echizen which is known for its crystal clear water. It is made from Koshinoshizuku rice, which was polished to 65%. I have had a couple other Sakes from this brewery before and have been impressed with their products, and this was not an exception. Smooth, full bodied and fruity, this was an easy-drinking Sake, something you could sit and drink all night.

It was a fun and tasty evening, and I owe many thanks to my friend Gordon for sharing his Sakes with me. The diversity and complexity of Sake was so evident that night, and it was supportive of a major reason why I love Sake so much. Forget overly hot Sake you get at cheap Asian spots. That is not indicative in the least of the true wonders of Sake, of its vast variety and complexity. If you truly want to experience Sake, spend an evening with a Sake lover doing a Sake crawl, sampling a number of different brews, learning about all that it can be. Like wine, tasting makes all of the difference.

Kanpai!

Departure on Urbanspoon
Saucebox on Urbanspoon
Masu on Urbanspoon

Wednesday, April 22, 2026

A History of Boston's Chinatown and Its Restaurants: 1975-1979 (Part 19)

Let's continue a look at the 1970s in Chinatown, with this article dealing with the second half of that decade. Due to the lengthy size of the prior article, covering the first half of the 1970s, I chose to split the decade into two articles. As I previously mentioned, the 1970s were a time of showcasing the problems of Chinatown, and seeking solutions to help that community. The second half of the 1970s continued addressing these issues. It was also a time when Chinese restaurants were being lauded, some for quality cuisine and others for inexpensive food.     

*******************

We begin with an article in the Boston Globe, January 2, 1975, where the local food critic, Anthony Spinazzola, recapped a year of "good eating." One part of his recap dealt with Chinese food, and he wrote, “To Chinese food there is no end of memorable meals.” He specifically mentioned a famed restaurant, “The Kowloon does wonderful things with squab, just to mention one dish from among several (like the extra fine ribs).” I haven't seen any recent reviews mentioning squab at the Kowloon, and it doesn't seem to be on their menu any longer.  Spinazzola continued, “And I had the best lobster Cantonese I ever had one night at the China Pearl in Chinatown. And on a New Year’s Eve the Imperial egg rolls deserved the name.

The Boston Globe, January 5, 1975, printed an editorial, touching on the problems in Chinatown. “The plight of Chinatown is another reminder that we should all pay more attention to those who strive without complaining simply to endure with pride in themselves and their community.” It mentioned that in 1973, there had been 22 cases of juvenile delinquency in Chinatown, as opposed to a single case in 1972. It continued, “What they would not ask for themselves, the adults of Chinatown are now asking for their children. That is an end to a not-so-benign neglect by the city as a whole and more positive attention from City Hall to make growing up Chinese in Boston a blessing, not a burden.” The first half of the 1970s had seen some positive progress for Chinatown, but it's obvious that much more work was needed.

24 hour restaurants! The Boston Globe, January 9, 1975, noted that the number of 24-hour restaurants and businesses in Boston was shrinking, including in Chinatown. A couple of the reasons for the problems included that liquor licenses ended at 2am and the MBTA stopped service at 1am. It was then mentioned that the best 24-hour restaurants were in Chinatown, including the Golden Gate, 66 Beach St.; Kim Toy, 2 Tyler St.; and Song Hee, 58 Beach St.

Another gambling raid. The Boston Globe, January 15, 1975, reported that 27 Chinese gamblers had been arrested on December 10, when police raided their Pie Kow game. Over $41,000 was seized during the raid, but none of the Chinese would state whose money it was, so the judge ordered it to be turned over to the state treasury. All of the Chinese pled guilty, paying a fine and court costs. Such gambling raids had been going on since the late 19th century, and they hadn't really changed much at all. 

The Boston Herald American, March 8, 1975, mentioned that a new employment center had opened in Chinatown, under the auspices of the Action for Boston Community Development. A positive sign that hopefully would bring change to the community, and which would reduce some of the issues of juvenile delinquency.  

Venerating the elderly. The Boston Herald American, March 14, 1975, reported on the Second Annual Golden Age Banquet of the Greater South Cove Golden Age Center, Inc. which was held at the China Pearl Restaurant. “The occasion was a splendid tribute to the Chinese elderly. Traditionally, the Chinese have been known for their respect for their elders; not just their own kin, but all their elderly. Consul General Shi-Ying Woo, a speaker, stated, “Respect for the elderly is one of the virtues of the Chinese.”

The Golden Age Center, at 239 Harrison Avenue, was located in a building that's leased from the Boston Redevelopment Authority for only $1, and its Director was Mrs. Ruth Moy. The Center was open 7 days a week, offering many services, including legal assistance, social workers, medical assistance, and interpreting. The Center also served almost 2000 meals a month, at a cost of 50 cents per person. The Center needed additional funding to continue its valuable work.

Positive news about crime. The Boston Herald American, March 27, 1975, reported that crime in Chinatown was on the decrease. In addition, three Chinese-Americans had been recently appointed to the police academy, and were expected to graduate in 9-10 months. 

More details were provided in the Boston Globe, April 18, 1975. It was initially noted that Chinatown was located in Boston Police District 1, which between 1973-1974 showed the 3rd highest overall crime increase, 34%, in the city. However, that didn't mean Chinatown, only one region in that district, saw such an increase and there was only a single murder in Chinatown in 1974. It was also noted that vandalism appeared to be at a minimum, but it's the most frequently voiced complaint by residents. In addition, it was alleged that there was a high percentage of unreported crimes in Chinatown due to the language barrier. 

The Boston Globe, May 8, 1975, provided a 3-star restaurant review of Carl’s Pagoda on 23 Tyler Street, which was open from 5pm-2am and didn't serve alcohol. It was also a small place, holding maybe 40 seats. It was initially noted that in Chinatown, “Today most restaurants there probably do as much business at lunch as they do in the evening. It was not always thus.” This was an interesting change, as Chinatown seems to have acquired a much larger amount of visitors during the day, rather than just people coming for dinner. Nowadays, lunch at Chinese restaurants is very popular, especially people seeking a great value from their inexpensive combination plates. 

As for Carl’s Pagoda, “In an area I thought I knew well and loved, there was a newness and freshness to the food.” The review continued, “Many of the dishes…seem to revolve around fresh produce.” The reviewer did warn that he didn’t try the standard dishes, and if he had tried them, and they were as good as the other dishes, the restaurant might have earned 4 stars. 

The Boston Globe, June 20, 1975, printed an advertisement for the grand opening of King Wah, located at 25-29 Beach Street. It called itself “The Real Chinese Restaurant,” although there was no information on exactly what that meant. The menu had "Typical Cantonese foods," and also offered Chinese Pastry, which likely indicated Dim Sum.

Police discrimination? The Boston Globe, June 21, 1975, reported that leaders in Chinatown had asked Mayor Kevin White to reopen an investigation of alleged police discrimination and insensitivity toward the Chinese during a May 11 scuffle between 2 Chinese and 2 white men in Chinatown. These Chinatown leaders rejected the findings of an internal police investigation and considered it a whitewash. They claimed that the police took 26 minutes to respond to the scuffle and only arrested the 2 Chinese men.

The men involved in this scuffle included Paul Chan, age 29, and Jerry Chu, age 34, both of Harrison Avenue, and they were the manager and superintendent, respectively, of the MassPike Towers on Tremont Street. The other two men included Philip Klimek, age 25, and Raymond Fridinger, age 17. Chan said that one of the other men one had a metal tire iron and attacked Chu after they told the two men to leave the parking lot. Klimek and Fridinger claimed that Chan and Chu attacked them when Fridinger urinated in the parking lot, and then Klimek grabbed the tire iron to defend themselves.  

The police claimed they reached the scene in 5 minutes, and Chan and Chu were taken to police station, while Klimek went to hospital with head injury, having been hit by a wooden board. It was also claimed that Fridinger left alone, although the police claimed all four men had been charged with assault abductions battery. In the end, all of the charges were dismissed. 

The Boston Globe, July 13, 1975, noted that Chinese elderly men outnumbered women by a 6 to 1 ratio, and many of those men lived alone. Mental illness among the elderly often got little medical attention. It was mentioned, “The Golden Age Center in Chinatown remains the major preventative mental resource for the elderly.” The Center had about 700 members, including a 105 year old man, Wong Hong. Wow! He would have been born around 1870. 

The Boston Herald American, August 20, 1975, reported that the Boston Police Academy would graduate its first Chinese patrolmen in February 1976. This would include John Tou, age 26, and Paul Chin, age 26 (both born in China) and James Fong, age 24, of Quincy. These would be the first Chinese patrolmen in Boston.

The Boston Globe, September 14, 1975, provided a snapshot of the restaurants in Chinatown. “Chinese restaurants are countless: In Boston’s Chinatown the House of Roy is favored by students; doctors and businessmen like Yee Hung Guey; China Pearl is a mainstay; Carl’s Pagoda does some exciting Cantonese dishes; Bo Shek is cafeteria-like, the Golden Gate a step above in method. The Shanghai does mandarin and Szechwan cooking, this far the only one of its type in Chinatown. Kim Toy is open all night.

The first two months of 1976 would bring additional gambling raids in Chinatown. The Boston Herald American, January 20, 1976, reported on a raid at a club on Beach Street, where 17 Chinese were arrested, In addition, the police seized $4000, Chinese dominos, dice and ivory cubes. The Boston Herald American, February 28, 1976 and the Boston Globe, February 28, 1976, reported that 26 Chinese had been arrested on gambling charges at raids at two Tyler Street clubs. The police seized $6,000 and various gambling devices. 

The number of Chinese restaurants! The Boston Globe, January 21, 1976, noted that there were 400 Chinese restaurants in a 15 mile radius of Chinatown. That's quite a large number for a relatively small region, indicating the huge popularity of Chinese cuisine. It was then hypothesized that these restaurants spent about 10% of their food purchases on bean sprouts! The article then went into detail about three local bean-sprout growers.

Interestingly, the Boston Herald American, July 15, 1976, stated that in 1975, 88 Chinese cookbooks were in print in the U.S., compared with only 8 that were published in 1966. In addition, in 1966, no Japanese cooks books had been published, but now 25 were in print. The 1970s had definitely seen a boom in the interest of Chinese and Japanese cuisine, and home cooks were learning how to prepare it at home.  

There was a lengthy article about Chinatown in the Boston Herald American, July 19, 1976. It began with, “Boston’s Chinatown is a pleasant puzzle—more easily enjoyed than fully understood.” It then continued, “Chinatown is aloof, but friendly; poor in some respects, but very rich; problem prone, but strong with resolution; changing steadily, but in essence remaining the same.” And then it was noted, “If there is one solid conclusion you can make about Chinatown, it is this: It will remain here as long as there is a city of Boston. The Chinese with us will see to that.” 

The article also mentioned that “The pains and prejudice the Chinese have endured here for more than a century are hidden to the outsider. He is there to enjoy himself, not to ponder the hard life many adult Chinese still live." The population of Chinatown was said to be about 2800, making it the 4th largest Chinatown in the U.S. There were also about 15,0000 Chinese all across in Boston, with another 5,000 in the rest of Massachusetts and 22,000 more in the rest of New England. In 1900, Chinatown had a population of only about 500, and by 1920, it had doubled to 1000. So, 55 years later, the population in Chinatown had only tripled. 

The article also mentioned the alleged origin of Chinatown. "The first Chinese residents in Boston arrived in 1875. The origin of the present Chinatown was a ‘tent city’ on Ping On st. The Chinese were employed as construction workers on the telephone exchange on Pearl st.” Finally, the article noted that there were about 300 Chinese restaurants in New England, and that 75% of Chinatown residents spoke little to no English, making life more difficult for them.

The Boston Globe, August 23, 1976, reported that Officer Arthur “Red” McDonald, age 33, an off duty State Police officer went to aid a Quincy man who was being attacked by a group of youths. McDonald was then attacked, stabbed and beaten, and he suffered head and body stab wounds. The group consisted of about 10 youths, ages 18-20, who wielded using knives, razors, clubs and “king fu” (sic) sticks. McDonald was treated and released from the hospital. 

The Boston Globe, October 11, 1976, printed an ad for Szechuan Garden, at 21 Harrison Avenue, offering a special that week for a second free lunch with every combination special ordered. Plus, you received a free drink with every dinner.  

The Jewish Advocate, December 9, 1976, published an ad for The Great Wall, at 152 Bowdoin Street, Beacon Hill, noting it was “A Chinese Restaurant Above the Common.”

Starting off the year, the Boston Globe, January 20, 1977, presented the favorite restaurants of their food critic, Anthony Spinazzola. As for Chinese restaurants, Anthony had awarded 4 stars to Peking on Fresh Pond, Peking Gardens in Lexington, and Shanghai in Chinatown. He also awarded 3 stars to Colleen’s in Cambridge and Carl’s Pagoda in Chinatown.  

The Boston Herald American, January 28, 1976, reported that Bob Lee’s Islander in Chinatown had been closed by state health inspectors until a hearing was held. Alleged violations included dirty paint, hairs in the food, open insect spray, moat with slime in it, dirty dishes and roaches.  

The Boston Globe, February 3, 1977, provided a lengthy and informative article, by Anthony Spinnazola, about Chinese cuisine. He began, "Chinese cuisine deserves top rank among the world's cooking because it is versatile, offers variety beyond others and yet retains the identity of the basic materiel used." The article then discusses the basics of Chinese cookery, explains the meaning of certain dishes, what to order at a Cantonese restaurant, and more.

Sad news. The Boston Herald American, February 8, 1977, reported that Hong Wong, Chinatown’s oldest citizen died, died at 106 years old. He came to Boston in 1890 from Los Angeles, and retired from the laundry business in 1930. He was survived by 2 sons, Loy and Warren, owners of the Chong Lung Grocery on Hudson Street, and several grandchildren. 

Bob's Islander strikes back! The Boston Herald American, February 9, 1977, noted that Bob Lee’s Islander would sue the Board of Health, claiming that because of the health violations, business had dropped 95% and Lee stated his reputation had been ruined. Lee “charged he was being discriminated against because of his Chinese ancestry and his civil rights have been violated.” He also claimed the Board had made announcements to the media before giving him a warning or the time to make any changes. Lee was able to re-open once he made the necessary changes. His attorney alleged that Lee was the victim of a power struggle between state health inspectors and Boston ones, and that the state inspectors had thought the Boston ones were too lenient. 

Peking Duck. So delicious. The Boston Globe, February 16, 1977, published a lengthy article about Chinese New Year's Eve and Peking Duck. The article initially mentioned that Peking Duck was a popular dish for special occasions, and then noted how it was traditionally served. After the duck was cooked, the crispy skin was removed and cut into small rectangles, and then the meat was similarly cooked. Then a Mandarin pancake is brushed with a dipping sauce, and the skin, meat and a scallion are placed atop the pancake, which is then wrapped up. 

Cooking Peking Duck is a lengthy and laborious process, so most only order it at restaurants. However, the article provided an easier recipe, from the National Duckling Council, so you could make something similar at home. There were also recipes to make Mandarin Pancakes, Plum Sauce, Hot Mustard Sauce, and Green Onion Brushes.

The Boston Globe, June 16, 1977, had an ad for Bogarts, “Boston’s Newest Chinese Restaurant,” located at 74 State Street. 

The Boston Herald American, July 1, 1977, provided a restaurant review of The Great Wall, providing it 2 stars, which means it is "Good." The restaurant is owned by Sally Wong, and offers Canton, Hunan and Szechuan cuisine. The reviewer stated the menu was typical with many standard dishes. The Shark’s Fin Soup was “uncommonly good and superbly endowed with delicate chicken slivers, fresh crunchy vegetables, and an abundance of whipped eggs.” The appetizers weren’t exciting, and the pupu platter ones were overcooked and slightly underseasoned. However, the main dishes were much better.  

The Boston Globe, September 1, 1977, also provided their own review of The Great Wall of China restaurant, at 152 Bowdoin Street, and they awarded it 3 Stars. The restaurant was located at the site of the former Hotel Bellevue, which had been built in 1899, and the restaurant had been there for 10 month. The review stated, “the Great Wall does a creditable job” and that “The menu is moderately priced, there are the usual appetizers, pu-pu platter and Polynesian drinks, as well as egg foo yong, chow mein, beef, chicken and seafood in traditional ways.” The review continued, “The Great Wall has several less common desserts (fried banana and fried apple) and one which it claims uniquely—fried ice cream. This is a scoop of vanilla ice cream dipped into an egg-like batter and deep fried in a few moments. The ball…. is then topped with chocolate sauce. For lovers of hot fudge sundaes, it's a good choice.” 

********************

Gangs return! The Boston Herald American, July 22, 1977, reported that members of the Ghost Shadow, a New York City based Chinese youth gang had returned to Boston, attempting to extort local Chinese merchants and engaging in drug sales. However, none of the merchants reported any extortion attempts. The gang had allegedly been in Boston for about 2 months. It possessed about 200 members, male and female, aged 17-21. It had been formed about 5 years ago from members of other gangs who were disenchanted with their old groups. 

The Boston Herald American, December 4, 1977, also published an article on the Ghost Shadows, noting there were about 40 currently in Chinatown. The Ghost Shadows had become the #1 gang in New York City about two years ago. It was also mentioned that white prostitutes in Chinatown had to pay the gang a fee of $20 a night. 

*******************
We've already seen Chinese become policeman this decade, and now maybe firefighters too. The Boston Globe, October 7, 1977, noted that, “For the first time in history, a Chinese-American has a chance of becoming a Boston firefighter. Six Cantonese-speaking candidates are expected to make the civil service list for hiring sometime in November,…”; It was also mentioned, “They made the list after intensive lobbying by Boston’s Chinese community,...

The origins of the famed Chinatown Gate! The Boston Globe, October 30, 1977, reported on a proposal for a Chinese Gate by John Sloan, a BRA architect who was now the Director of BRA’s Design Section. This new Gate would span Beach Street where it terminates at Atlantic Avenue “creating an emblem and a gateway for Boston’s Chinese community.” Currently, the Gate was contained in 88 crates, and “Each crate is filled with small parts—there are eight boxes of lion parts alone—and the whole thing goes together like a Chinese puzzle, so to speak.” 

It was noted that, “The Gate is a gift from the Republic of China (i.e. Taiwan) to the Chinese Consolidated Benevolent Association of New England. The gift came because Sloan, five years ago, included a drawing of such a gate in a planning document for Chinatown. Leaders of the Chinese community liked it and the donation was the result.” It was also stated that the Chinese Benevolent Association was paying the storage fee for the crates. However, it was noted, “But how to pay for getting it out, assembled, and up?”; Sloan was seeking some money from the bequest of Edward Ingersoll Brown of $610,000, and awaiting the Browne Fund executors for their decision. 

More info. The Boston Globe, November 20, 1977, published a letter from Robert Walsh, Director of Boston Redevelopment Authority. He stated that the idea for a gateway came from the Chinese community, not a staff member of the BRA. The letter added, “The gate will serve as a symbol of the cultural heritage shared by the Chinese community. The gateway will not only strengthen the identity of the Chinese community, but also serve as an interesting addition to the physical environment of downtown Boston.” 

More gambling in Chinatown. The Boston Herald American, November 8, 1977, reported that Charlie Chin and Joe S. Cho, both of Boston, were charged with bribery and conspiracy to commit bribery. They had allegedly offered a bribe to an undercover cop to allow them to operate a $10,000 per week gambling casino on Tyler Street. It was claimed that in July, the two men gave the undercover officer $8800. The casino employed 21 persons and was open 16 hours a day. The police eventually raided it, arrested two people working there, and released 15 people who were present. These arrests came on the “first anniversary of the Special Investigation Unit of the Boston Police Department’s probe into corruption and gambling in Chinatown.” 

There was additional information in the Boston Herald American, November 9, 1977. Joe Cho, age 42, was the operator of a West Roxbury restaurant and Charlie Chin, age 36, lived in the South End. They were both released on $25,000 bail. Victor Lee, age 26, and his brother Sun Quien Lee, age 31, both of Brookline, were dealers at the casino.

The Evening Gazette, December 27, 1977, discussed Wong Soon, a family owned and operated noodle business. The owner was Daniel Wong and his father started the business 50 years ago in a small factory on Tyler Street. They produced fresh egg noodles, roll wrappers, won tons, and deep fried noodles. Their factory was now in Dorchester and the old factory in Chinatown was their distribution center. They operated 9 noodle machines and noted, “Humidity is a noodle’s worst enemy.

The Boston Herald American, January 22, 1978, began the New Year recommending some Chinatown spots. “If you want a gourmet meal for a reasonable price, head down to Chinatown and places like Nadia’s Eastern Star Restaurant (280 Shawmut Ave.), Moon Villa (23 Edinboro St.), or the Seventy Restaurant (70 Beach St.)."

The Boston Herald American, February 9, 1978, reported, “The vinyl roof of the South Cove YMCA in Chinatown collapsed under heavy snow yesterday afternoon. The YMCA is Chinatown’s only full-time recreational facility.” 

A document from the Office of the Mayor, Little City Hall, and dated March 1, 1978, provided a fascinating snapshot of the businesses, services, in more in Chinatown. It listed 23 restaurants in Chinatown, including: Bo Shek, 63 Beach St.; Bob Lee’s Island, 20 Tyler St.; Carl’s Pagoda, 23 Tyler St.; China Pavilion, 14 Hudson St.; China Pearl, 9 Tyler St.; Four Seas, 4 Tyler St.; Fung Wong, 8 Tyler St.; Golden Gate, 66 Beach St.; Good Earth, 5 Tyler St.; House of Toy, 8 Hudson St.; House of Roy, 25 Tyler St.; Ho Yuen Ting, 13A Hudson St.; Henry’s Restaurant, 52 Beach St.; Kim Toy, 2 Tyler St.; King Wah, 25 Beach St.; Moon Villa, 23 Edinboro St.; Munch Brunch, 262 Harrison Ave.; Pak Nin, 84-86 Harrison Ave.; Ying Ying, 58 Beach St.; Seventy Restaurant, 70 Beach St.; Shanghai, 21 Hudson St.; Tai Tung, 227 Harrison Ave.; and Yee Hong Guy, 34 Oxford St.  

In addition, the document noted there were 3 Chinese Pastry Shops, including: Fong On Co., 9 Hudson St.; Ho Yuen Bakery, 54 Beach St.; and May Lee Ice Cream Parlor, 26 Oxford St. There were also 2 Noodle Shops, including: Ho Toy Noodle Shop, 19 Edinboro St. and Wong Soon Noodle Shop, 15 Hudson St. Plus, there were 3 Bean Sprout/Bean Curd Shops, including: Jing Kee Bean Sprouts, 223 Harrison Ave,; Quong Lung Co., 77A Tyler St.; and Cheng Yah Wong’s Bean Curd, 83 Tyler St.

The Boston Globe, March 23, 1978, mentioned that the Boston City Council had listened to testimony from 5 neighborhood agencies seeking Community Development Block Grants. The Chinatown representatives sought grants for youth and elderly programs. “A representative of Chinatown’s YES program said she is concerned with juvenile delinquency in the neighborhood. The YES program provides services that ‘ might keep Chinese youth from becoming a danger and a burden.

The Boston Herald American, April 4, 1978, printed an article about the Josiah Quincy Community School, “a space-age school fulfilling the same mission as village temples 1000 years ago in China—education, medical care and settlement of political disputes all under one roof,…” It was also stated, “It is the only Boston school to house a Little City Hall, health center, elementary school and community (after school) program.” The school, located at Marginal Way and Washington Streets, was opened in 1976 and had replaced America’s oldest multi-class elementary school, the old Quincy built in 1847.  

The article also discussed the South Cove Community Health Care Center, where residents could now see 18 doctors at low cost. Before 1971, there hadn't been a doctor who spoke Chinese in Chinatown. The Health center now averages 32,000 visits a year, each costing $7 a visit, and all the doctors on staff are bilingual.  

The Boston Globe, April 6, 1978, mentioned that Chinatown had many restaurants open after midnight, too many to include all of them in their article. However, they did note some of the places, including Kim Toy Lunch (2 Tyler St., open 24 hours), China Pearl (9 Tyler St., till 2am), Seventy Restaurant (70 Beach St., 4am), Carl’s Pagoda (23 Tyler St., until midnight), The Four Seas (4 Tyler St., 4am), and House of Roy (25 Tyler St., midnight).  

A stabbing. The Boston Herald American, April 29, 1978, reported that three men from the North End were charged with stabbing two men in a restaurant on Beach Street in Chinatown. Gerlad Scaproatti (age 26), Paul Lanni (age 29), and John Pottore (age 29), were arrested for Assault & Battery with a dangerous weapon. The victims included Gregory Kasabian (age 21), of Waltham, who was stabbed 5 times in the stomach but was currently in stable condition, and John McBrien, of Roslindale, who was stabbed once in the right side, but was also stable.  

The Boston Herald American, April 29, 1978, published an article about William Leong (age 32), the founder and director of the Chinese Economic Development Council. William, educated at Boston University, spent 4 years training himself and reeducating Chinatown’s business leaders “to survival tactics in Boston-style politics.” On July 1, his Council became a federal Community Development Corporation, able to tap a multi-million dollar pool to build housing, shops, training programs, and social services. Leong now has a strong bargaining position against developers who might try to reduce Chinatown. However, there are some critics who believe that that the Council is too elite.

A shooting in Chinatown. The Boston Globe, June 2, 1978, reported that Robert Aiguier, a 32 year old from Quincy, was shot in a leg in altercation in the foyer of a Tyler Street Chinatown restaurant at 3:30am. The assailant also fired 2 shots at witnesses, who gave chase, but missed hitting any of them. The police are investigating.  

The Boston Globe, June 8, 1978, provided a review of Ho Yuen Ting, located at 13A Hudson Street, and gave it 2 Stars. The restaurant had existed for about 30 years, and had been originally operated by the grandfather of the present owners, 5 brothers of the Moi family. The brothers took over the restaurant two years ago, and improved the menu and appearance of the small basement eating place. “Today it might be called the McDonald’s of Chinatown—it attracts a sizeable number of the area’s teenagers.” It has about 40 seats and is “usually crowded with non-Chinese of all ages.” 

It primarily serves Cantonese dishes and the food is cooked to order. The house specialty is conch, but it also serves “less seldom-seen specialties: snails, really periwinkles, stir fried in black bean sauce; Hon Sue duck’s feet and several variations of the Eight Delights recipe—chicken gizzards and livers, shrimp, fish maw, roast pork, ginger, dried mushrooms and squid.” The restaurant does not sell liquor.

The Boston Globe, June 26, 1978, published an article that highlighted the Ho Toy Noodle Co., Inc. Jeffrey Wong (age 34) was the head of the company and had started the business in an old textile shop on Edinboro Street in 1971. The name of the company means “good luck.” Currently, the business has 13 employees, and they produce 100,000 fortune cookies a week, 13,000 pounds of egg rolls, 400 pounds of wonton skins, and 20,500 pounds of noodles. Last year, they did $450,000 in sales, selling to 200 Chinese restaurants, grocery stores and supermarkets in New England, as well as New York, Ohio and South Carolina. 

Wong was born in Canton, China, and at age 10, worked in Wong Soon, his grandmother’s noodle and cookie company. Wong eventually left that company because he wanted his own operation. A couple of his employees have a similar mindset, and will open their own company around the corner on Lincoln Street in a few weeks. 

The article also described the process of making fortune cookies, which were produced by a machine but the fortunes are placed inside by hand. “Two workers sit at the machine, which takes in liquid dough and turns out round flat baked pieces that look like small pancakes. Workers wearing thick gloves pick the pieces off of a rotating skillet-like surface, place the paper fortune in the center and fold the cookies around it. In 10 seconds the cookie hardens.” It continued, “And where do the fortunes come from? Shuck K. Yee, a retired mechanical engineer in Oakland, California, prints up about 4 million a month and mails them all over the United States.” It was then mentioned, “Yee doesn’t write them himself. He bought his stock of about 250 fortunes from Tom’s Bakery in Oakland and has them reprinted over and over again. He said he doesn’t know where the bakery got them. Yee is also the inventor of the completely automatic fortune cookie machine, which he has sold to several companies around the country and which Ho Toy plans to start using shortly.”

Shootings! The Boston Herald American, July 17, 1978, reported that bullets had been fired at a car owned by Joseph Chin (age 27), the manager of the Munch Brunch restaurant at 262 Harrison Avenue in Chinatown. Joseph was not hurt, and mentioned that he had an argument with some youths prior to the shooting. The Boston Herald American, September 29, 1978, reported that there had been a shooting at the Munch Brunch. Five youths, alleged members of the Ghost Shadows, were arrested and one was in possession of a .38 revolver, but police claimed that no shots had been fired. Could these incidents be related to attempted extortion of the merchant? 

The Boston Herald American, October 12, 1978, reported that $275,000 had been appropriated to erect the Ceremonial Gateway, as well as for seats, landscaping and tree planting at that location. 

The Boston Globe, October 19, 1978, in an article titled, Dining Out Without Going Broke,  it was noted, “Chinese restaurants still generally offer the best buys in town, especially when four or more are eating.” It continued, “Chinese—Places are quite comparable, but the smaller the place, the cheaper the price. Bo Shek and Golden Gate are especially reasonable in Chinatown.”

The Boston Globe, November 27, 1978, reported that Thomas St. John, a Boston motorcycle cop, was shot in the left leg on Kingston Street in Chinatown while getting off his bike to approach a car he stopped. The shooter was still on the loose although later editions indicated that 3 suspects were in custody and being questioned. 

The Boston Herald American, November 28, 1978, mentioned that the Chinese community needed about an additional 1100 units of housing, In the past twenty years, the Chinese population had doubled but the community also lost 1200-1500 units of housing because of property taken by the city for the Massachusetts Turnpike, Southeast Expressway and Tufts expansion programs.

The Boston Globe, January 7, 1979, provided more information about the Josiah Quincy Community School, which was more of a community center than just a school. The Center is “topped off with a bright red and yellow mural of drawings done by school children. Red, the Chinese ‘luck’ color, is much used in the building décor. The fortress shape of the building seems no accident. It perfectly reflects the resolute attitude of the young professionals working inside.” The Center includes a public elementary school, K-5, and is staffed by Chinese. It also includes three independent and compatible service organizations: Little City Hall, a Community council which runs a range of civic, educational and cultural activities, and the South Cove Community Health Center.

The article noted that the best estimate for the number of Chinese in Boston was about 15,000, with 4000 in the South End and 4000 in Alston-Brighton. Most were Cantonese or from Hong Kong, although the population also included northern Chinese and ethnic Chinese from Burma and Vietnam. 
The Center catered to all Chinese in eastern Massachusetts and New England. At the center, you could take Cantonese cooking classes, run by Ester Ang, more as a survival skill rather than as a hobby. “Whatever the origin, Chinese food takes no time to cook—once you’ve done the preparation. It is perhaps the world’s most labor intensive cuisine.” It continued, “Like many young American, many young Chinese don’t know how to cook. Even those who come here knowing the basics have to learn to cope with American equipment and products.” Esther Ang also stated, “Another purpose of the cooking class is for them to make friends. If they can make friends they will have someone to telephone, to talk to, when they are lonely or need help.” 

It was also noted, “The babysitter is not part of the Chinese culture.” Thus, the Center taught babysitting courses and even had a day care center. The public school occupied the top 3 floors, and the student population included 300 Chinese, 180 blacks, 150 whites, and 20 Hispanics. 

Few of the Center’s 800 members spoke much English. 10 years ago, this type of community center would not have been established as it “…it was unheard of for the Chinese community to go outside for help—either from pride or ignorance.” As I previously noted, the 1970s saw much changes in the Chinatown community, a greater openness to seek help, especially spurned on by the younger generation. 

The Boston Herald American, February 18, 1979, noted that Weggie’s Pub, at 163 Lincoln Street, in Chinatown, would open at the end of March, owned by Chinese restaurateur Reginald Wong. Wong owns a restaurant supply business and at least 3 restaurants, including the ’70, The Ming Tree in Quincy Market, and The Jade Fountain in Marlboro. Weggie’s will have a Chinese disco, with Chinese disc jockey Matthew Wong (of WBCN) taking care of the music. The restaurant will serve Peking Duck and barbecued spareribs, and will also offer liquor.  

The Boston Globe, April 2, 1979, printed a lengthy article on Chinatown, noting how in the last ten years, Chinatown has been more vocal about their needs. “The Chinese are traditionally modest; we have kept our problems to ourselves. But now the younger generation is saying it’s not so bad to ask for help.” However, there are issues as “Not everyone agrees on priorities. Some emphasize housing and employment; others believe English-as-a-Second-Language programs are essential. Sometimes agency programs overlap and agencies compete with each other for limited government funds.” Despite these differences, “Nevertheless, the mood in Chinatown is one of cautious optimism.”

It was stated that Chinatown had a population of about 5000. Many of the men work 60 hours a week in restaurants or laundries while the women often work as stitchers in garment factories. It was also said that many children rarely see their fathers, which contributes to rising rates of juvenile delinquency and a widening generation gap. “These days residents of Chinatown will not quietly accept any fate which threaten the disintegration of their neighborhood.”

Dim Sum! The Boston Herald American, April 4, 1979, ran an article on Dim Sum. It was noted that King Wah, at 29 Beach Street, served Cantonese dim sum and was “offering one of the largest varieties in the area of dim sum delights and a favorite among local residents.” The Seventy Restaurant, at 70 Beach Street also offered Cantonese dim sum. The Peking Garden, at 27 Waltham Street in Lexington, served Mandarin dim sum.  All 3 restaurants offer dim sum pastries for take out. The Ho Yuen Bakery, at 54 Beach Street, also had a limited variety of dim sum pastries.  

Chinatown Gate. The Boston Globe, June 3, 1979, mentioned the will of Edward Ingersoll Browne, which was made in 1901, but that funds had only recently become available. Those funds were going to six different projects so far, including the Chinatown Gate. Construction of the Gate was going to be to be started in 1979 at a cost of $275,000. 

The Boston Herald American, July 15, 1979, discussed some of the current problems in Chinatown. The article mentioned, “Supervision of grown children in Chinatown is a problem. Parents can’t exert the strict discipline they once did over their children.” It continued, “In more than half of the families,…, the mothers work all day chiefly in garment factories.” In addition, “As many as 80 percent of the fathers in Chinatown work through the night in Chinese restaurants—about the only jobs they can get.” It was also noted, “There is also a lot of depression among teenagers. There is anger towards the system and failure at school because language is so important and they have difficulty with English.”; 

More children were coming to Chinatown each year. “It is estimated that 800 to 900 people a year, most of them 18 or under, arrive from Hong Kong and the People’s Republic of China. They are trying to build a new life in overpopulated Chinatown where underemployment is the biggest headache of all.” It was also mentioned that “Crime is a problem in Chinatown.” However, “little crime in Chinatown is even reported to the police.” Fortunately, “There are eight Chinese police officers in the department,…, and they are very knowledgeable about what goes on.” 

Another threat to Chinatown from developers. The Boston Herald American, July 18, 1979, reported that Tufts University was buying four tenement buildings on the corner of Harrison Avenue and Harvard Street in Chinatown. Tufts planned to build a Health Science Education Building on the site. However, members of the Chinatown community were going to the Boston Housing Court to fight landlord over the evictions, which they say violate Boston’s Rent Control Laws. It was also estimated that 78% of housing in Chinatown was overcrowded, and that 72% is either deteriorated or dilapidated. The Boston Herald American, July 20, 1979, noted that the evictions were put on hold until lawyers could submit post-trial memoranda.  

The Boston Herald American, August 4, 1979, had a brief bit about the Hing Noodle Company, located on Lincoln Street near Chinatown. Lawrence Wong (age 28), creates 400 pounds of noodles each day "marketed for chow mein fans."

The Boston Globe, September 13, 1979, presented a review of The Beansprout in Medford, giving it 3-Stars. The location had once been Peking on the Mystic and then Wau Pei. The chef is Taiwanese and "has a nice hand." It was also noted, "Sauces are generally light and sauve." They also offer Szechuan dishes. It was also mentioned, "Desserts are limited, but fried ice cream---a large scoop of vanilla ice cream with ground almonds topped with a thin chocolate sauce and canned whipped cream--will appeal to some.” 

Various Chinese cuisines. The Boston Globe, October 18, 1979, provided an article about How To Read A Menu, covering various cuisines. One section dealt with Chinese cuisine, noting there were three main regional types in the Boston area: Cantonese, Mandarin and Szechuan. Cantonese cuisine was the most common, and popular, and was available at places including: China Pearl (Chinatown), Harry Mok's Four Seas (Chinatown), Kowloon, Bali Hai, Yem Mee, and Braintree Five Corners. "It is served in every restaurant in Chinatown almost without exception,..."

There were then descriptions of Mandarin and Szechuan cuisines, noting some of their iconic dishes. Next, the article provided a variety of Chinese terms, and their meanings, which might find on restaurant menus. Plus, there were explanations of some of the most common dishes, from chop suey to chow yoke. 

Housing issues once again. The Boston Globe, December 5, 1979, reported that a developer was planning to construct the first condominiums in Chinatown. The site was two abandoned buildings the developer, Louis Hadaya, had previously purchased for $30,000. The project would entail 10 condominiums at 74-76 Tyler Street, although Hadaya has claimed he might end up making apartments instead. The Chinatown community generally opposed the idea of condominiums, feeling that Chinese couldn't afford to purchase them. Louis Scrima, executive director of the Chinese American Civic Association, stated, "This (Chinatown) is really the last piece of undeveloped land in the downtown area, and building prices are already rising pretty rapidly." It was also noted that "Chinatown suffers from some of the worst overcrowding and housing shortages of any neighborhood in Boston,.."

The Chinatown Gateway. The Boston Herald American, December 21, 1979, ran an article about the Chinatown Gate, and all the problems that had prevented its construction so far. Five years ago, Taiwan sent 55 crates of green ceramic tiles to Boston for the Gate. They were still sitting in a warehouse in South Boston. The city only had to pay for construction costs, about $100,000, but the Boston Redevelopment Authority had greater plans, including sprucing up a playground into a park with trees and benches. During the past five years, plans have been caught up in red tape and bureaucratic snafus. If the Gate was constructed, it would be about 40 feet all and 29 feet wide. There was some hope that it might be completed in 1980. 

*********************

To Be Continued....

Tuesday, January 6, 2026

The Origins of Chinese Spareribs & Boneless Spareribs

Ubiquitous at many Chinese restaurants are Chinese spareribs, known in China as páigǔ, which literally means "row of bones," an appropriately descriptive term. They are commonly served on the bone, on a plate with several individual ribs. In addition, at some Chinese restaurants you can also find boneless spareribs (although technically the meat isn't from spareribs). Chinese spareribs often possess a bright red color, which is commonly due to food coloring, and the first use of such food coloring might have originated in Boston, Massachusetts. 

When did Chinese spareribs first appear in the U.S.? And when did boneless spareribs first appear in the U.S.? Let's delve into their history, and also see some of the earliest recipes that were made available.    

Maybe the first documented reference to Chinese spareribs in the U.S. was in 1921. The Chicago Daily News (IL), June 25, 1921, reported that a man entered a Chinese restaurant and asked for "Chinese spareribs" but was served a chicken dish instead. This led to a physical fight, and the police got involved. The article didn't seem to indicate that Chinese spareribs were unique or rare, and implies that they had previously existed for some unknown time at Chinese restaurants. So, Chinese spareribs most likely existed in the U.S. prior to 1921, but we lack evidence to indicate when they first appeared. 

We also have to consider that this article didn't describe the Chinese spareribs so it's unclear the exact nature of the dish, and whether it resembled or not the modern versions of this dish. However, once we see subsequent recipes, in the later 1920s and 1930s, it seems probable the original dish was different from the modern version. 

The Columbia Missourian (MO), April 5, 1924, may have offered the first printed recipe for Chinese Spare Ribs. It's interesting to note that the ribs were supposed to be cut into small pieces, about 1 1/2 inches long. This is obviously different from the long spareribs you now receive at most Chinese restaurants. I'll note that the use of small pieces of ribs seemed common for many years to come. The sauce for the ribs was made of soy sauce ("Chinese sauce"), sugar, vinegar, salt, ginger powder and flour. These would not have possessed the bright red color we now find on most Chinese spareribs. 

A few years later, the Red Bluff Tehama County Daily News (CA), June 7, 1927, discussed another physical fight over spareribs at a Chinese restaurant. A couple Filipinos entered a chop suey restaurant, owned by Jung Don, and asked "Have you any spareribs, Chinese style, sweet and sour?" Jung told them that they didn't have enough money to pay for the spareribs. That led to a fight and the Filipinos were subsequently arrested for disturbing the peace. At the hearing, there was a "thesis on the Chinese style of preparing spareribs," and the Filipinos were convicted and made to pay a $25 fine. One of the defendants also stated that the Chinese and Filipinos never got along. 

The Times Standard (CA), May 25, 1928
, published an advertisement for the Mandarin Café, which announced that “Pik-Woi (Chinese Style Spare Ribs)" would now be served. This was the only reference I found to the term "Pik-woi." 

The Cleveland Press (OH), April 17, 1929, published a recipe for "Chinese Pickled Spareribs," and it was reprinted in newspapers across the country, including in Michigan, Virginia, New York, New Jersey, Georgia, Tennessee, South Carolina, North Carolina, and Hawaii. Again, the ribs were to be cut into small pieces, although this time no more than 2 1/2 inches in length.

The World (OR), February 13, 1931
, had an ad for the opening of The Tientsin restaurant, and their dishes included “Chinese Pickled Spare-Ribs” for 45 cents. 

The Times (NJ), March 29, 1934
, had a recipe contest for their readers, and Mrs. C.F. Suppers won a $1 award for her "Chinese Spareribs" recipe. It was similar to the previous recipe for "Chinese Pickled Spareribs.

The Star Press (IN), August 9, 1934
, provided a restaurant ad for Oriental Gardens, which offered "Tonight Free Chinese Spareribs." Another ad in the Muncie Evening Press (IN), October 24, 1934, for the Four Hundred Club, mentioned they served Chinese Spareribs, prepared by their Chinese chef.

The Star Press (IN), October 26, 1934,
 in an ad for the Wooden Shoe Inn, stated they offered "Chinese Baked Spare Ribs." 

A celebrity loves spareribs! The Brooklyn Eagle (NY), November 22, 1934, provided details about  Johnny Marvin, a famous musician known for playing the ukulele, including that his favorite dish was Chinese spareribs. This article was reprinted in many newspapers across the country. 

The Evening Vanguard (CA), April 27, 1935
, published an ad for the China Cafe, which offered "Chinese Roast Spareribs." I'll note that a number of these restaurant ads failed to describe the name of their spareribs dishes. Were they still the small pieces of spareribs as previously mentioned? 

The Baker City Herald (CA), September 20, 1935, in a restaurant ad for Toy's Noodle Parlor, stated, "You will....enjoy our Chinese Spare Ribs, well cooked with a lot of gravy." 

The News-Pilot (CA), October 26, 1935, printed a restaurant ad for Doc Crow's Brass Rail stated they served "The World Famous Chinese Barbecued Spare Ribs."  

The Crete News (NE), April 22, 1937, mentioned how Chinese pork spare ribs were cut in small pieces and cooked in a solution of rice vinegar, soybean sauce, salt and sugar for one hour at low temperature. 

A similar sentiment was provided in the Lovington Reporter (IL), November 19, 1937. An article stated, "The well known Chinese dish 'sweet-sour spare-ribs' is made by breaking the ribs into small pieces and cooking them, with any meat that happens to be attached, in sweetened vinegar." This continues the thread that Chinese spareribs at this time were still commonly cut into small bites, and marinated in a sauce, rather than the larger spareribs most restaurant now offer. 

The Los Angeles Times (CA), December 2, 1937, ran this brief ad mentioning Barbecued Spare Ribs.

Need to make spareribs for 75 people? The Sexton Cook Book for the Sexton Market (John Sexton & Co., 1937) provided a recipe for Chinese Spareribs (Chinese), although it was for quite a large portion. The spareribs were cut into 1 inch pieces and the ingredients included broth, vinegar, soy bean sauce, sugar, salt and cornstarch.

The San Francisco Chronicle (CA), February 18, 1938, had a brief ad for Red’s Cocktail Bar, offering “Chinese Bar-B-Q Spareribs.

A recipe, for Chinese Spareribs, in the Sacramento Bee (CA), January 19, 1940, stated the ribs should be cut in "serving pieces" but there's no indication of what that actually constituted. 

The Bakersfield Californian (CA), September 13, 1941, printed an ad for the Bamboo Chopsticks restaurant, which sold "Chinese Barbecued Spareribs (actually Barbecued in a Pit)."

The Boston Traveler (MA), February 25, 1942, provided a recipe for Chinese Spare Ribs from one of their readers. The ribs were once again asked to be cut into one inch cubes. This may also be the first documented mention of Chinese spareribs in Massachusetts. They were not the type of Chinese spareribs which are now found at many places. 

The spread of Chinese Spareribs! The Miami News (FL), August 16, 1944, printed an advertisement for the Kitty Davis Theater Restaurant in Miami Beach, Florida. Kitty just introduced Chinese Barbecued Spareribs to her restaurant, and it was mentioned, "Take a tip from New York, Chicago and Los Angeles. People there are going wild about Chinese Barbecued Spareribs."

The Times Union (NY), February 7, 1946, mentioned, "Ever eat Chinese spareribs? Charlie Murray was telling us about eating them at Ruby Foo's. He said they were so good he wanted the recipe. Very simple. You soak them in a spicy marinade, then roast them in plum sauce. They're so good you want more, and then you start letting a notch or two out of your belt."

The Pasadena Independent (CA), March 12, 1946, provided a different recipe than many of the previous ones, and included a number of ingredients not previously used, such as ketchup and Worcestershire sauce. And there was no mention of cutting the ribs into small pieces. It seems as if these ribs were kept their usual size, and not cut into 1-2 inches pieces. 

The Chicago Tribune (IL), March 17, 1946, published the above photo of a dish of Chinese spareribs, showing that they were cut into small pieces. 

The newspaper also offered this recipe for the dish. 

The Los Angeles Evening Citizen News (CA), August 24, 1946, had an ad for Che-Li-Café which served “Special Chinese Bar-B-Q Pork Spare Ribs.” 

The El Paso Herald-Post (TX), August 31, 1946, also had an ad, for the Camp Grandę Cafe, which served "Chinese Barbecued Spare Ribs." 

The Coast Dispatch (CA), December 5, 1946, noted, "An especial feature is Chinese barbecued spare ribs which attracts many diners to the Grand." The Grand Cafe had a Chinese chef, Tom Koon.

The Cincinnati Enquirer (OH), December 10, 1946, printed this recipe for Chinese Spareribs, and it required cutting the ribs into 1 inch pieces. 

The Pontiac Daily Press (MI), May 27, 1948, had a recipe for Sweet Sour Chinese Spareribs, which called for the use of raisins. 

This recipe in the Worcester Telegram (MA), February 28, 1949, was submitted by a reader who said she learned it in Texas. Again, the ribs were cut into one-inch pieces, and I'll note the added ingredient of sherry, which wasn't mentioned in other recipes. 

The Minneapolis Star (MN), September 28, 1949, noted that one of the best items at Trader Vic's were their Chinese barbecued spare ribs. Those ribs would soon end up on their PuPu platters, starting a trend for many Chinese and Polynesian restaurants in the future. 

How long were Trader Vic restaurants serving Chinese barbecued spare ribs? In Trader Vic's Book of Food and Drink (1946), there is a brief mention of Trader Vic having hosted a party the year before, and one of the items served was a "bowl of barbecued spareribs" but the book didn't have a recipe for those spareribs. In Trader Vic's Pacific Island Cookbook (1968), he again failed to provide a recipe for the spareribs, except that he did provide a recipe for "what Chinese restaurants do with leftover barbecued spareribs." The recipe calls for those ribs to be cut into bite sized pieces. This may indicate that the Trader Vic restaurants were serving long barbecued ribs, which later might be cut into small pieces once they became leftovers.

The Detroit Times Extra (MI), November 15, 1949, mentioned, "Delicate spareribs, cooked the Chinese way with sugar for sweetness and vinegar for sweetness are a delicious treat. Fluffy rice is the natural accompaniment." The article also provided a recipe for Chinese Spareribs, which were cut into 2 inch pieces.

The San Francisco Examiner (CA), November 24, 1949, ran an ad for the Teacup Restaurant, "Specializing in Chinese Barbecued Spare Ribs."

Pork dominance! The Fort Collins Coloradan (CO), February 9, 1950, noted, "With pork products on top of the February list of plentiful foods, spareribs should be high on your menus now. The Chinese are skillful with spareribs usually served in a sweet-sour sauce as appetizers. They can also be used as the main dish served with rice, pickled turnips and salted almonds." They also provided a recipe for the spareribs, noting, "Cut spareribs in one-rib pieces." The Springville Journal, February 16, 1950, added, "Pigs will be one of our most plentiful crops in 1950, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture." And that article also mentioned "sweet-sour Chinese style, spareribs barbecued,..."

The Boston Herald (MA), February 4, 1957, printed this recipe for Chinatown Spareribs, which were cut into 2 inch pieces. Was this the dominant style of spareribs in Boston's Chinatown at this time? 

The Quincy Patriot Ledger (MA), May 18, 1959, provided a fascinating recipe for Chinese Spareribs, which apparently were not cut into small pieces. The only ingredients for taste included margarine, wine vinegar, garlic, salt and pepper. The recipe also called for red food coloring, and this might be the first printed recipe for spareribs calling for that particular ingredient. 

Today, red food coloring is commonly used on Chinese spareribs, giving it the bright red color that many people want to see on their ribs. And if that color isn't there, some of those people will complain about the looks of those spareribs. The food coloring doesn't add anything to the flavor, it's only for the visual effect. 

Who was the first to use red food coloring on Chinese spareribs? There actually is a candidate, someone from Boston, who may have thus started a significant trend for the future. A fascinating article appeared in the Boston Globe, September 3, 1962, titled, “Here’s How To Cook in Chinese.” The article discussed the famed Anita Chue, who, with her husband Gorden Chue, opened the acclaimed Cathay House in Chinatown in 1945. The Esquire Magazine, December 1958, stated that Cathay House was one of the best Cantonese restaurants in the entire country. 

In the Globe article, Anita provided advice on Chinese cuisine, as well as giving information about the dishes prepared at her restaurant. She mentioned that “In Chinese cooking eye appeal is important.” She provided some specific examples of dishes made at the Cathay House, and also noted that “Pure food coloring gives barbecued spareribs their rich red color. My husband, Gordon, did it first, Now everybody adds red coloring to pork marinade.” 

Is this actually the case? Was Gordon Chue the first to add red food coloring to Chinese spareribs? It's certainly possible, and no one else has stepped forward as another candidate. And, all of the early references to the use of such food coloring occur in Massachusetts newspapers, which adds credence to its first use in Massachusetts. It's unknown when Gordon first started using the food color, and it could have been anytime after 1945.

The Boston Globe, August 3, 1960, also had a recipe for Chinese-Style Spareribs, which called for the use of red food coloring. 

During the 1960s, many of the Chinese sparerib recipes started changing, so that the ribs weren't cut into small pieces any longer. They started becoming more like what we now know as Chinese spareribs, and other recipes, outside of Massachusetts, started using red food color too. So, after about 40 years since the first known reference to Chinese spareribs, they had transformed largely into what is now served in many Chinese restaurants.

********************

However, what about Boneless Spareribs? Many sources claim that boneless spareribs are a more recent invention, a less expensive alternative to bone-in spareribs as well as also being less messy. However, the first appearance of boneless spareribs in a Chinese restaurant in the U.S. actually extends back over 85 years, to the 1930s.

The Brooklyn Citizen (NY), March 12, 1938, briefly mentioned that the Cathay Restaurant, at West 52nd Street, Manhattan, offered “sweet sour boneless spareribs.”

Another mention was in the Courier Journal (KY), November 4, 1941. James Wong Howe, a Hollywood cameraman and restaurateur, owned a restaurant named Ching How, which was located near Hollywood. the restaurant had a special barbecue oven and their menu included, “Wor Siu Py Gutt: Boneless spareribs in sweet and sour sauce, sprinkled with crushed almonds.” This article was reprinted across the country, so many people thus heard about boneless spareribs. 

The Des Moines Register (Iowa), May 14, 1943, noted that the New Grand East Chinese restaurant in Los Angeles served “boneless spareribs with pineapple (a la Clark Gable).”

The Washington Daily News (D.C.), January 15, 1949, spoke to the chef from the Casino Royal, asking him about the dishes he brought with him from Hong Kong. He stated that included, “Sweet and Pungent Boneless Spareribs: Boneless spareribs dipped in egg, sauted in pineapple, vegetables and green peppers flavored with sweet and pungent sauces.” This is certainly very different to the basic version of boneless spareribs that dominates Chinese menus nowadays. 

The Washington Daily News (D.C.), January 21, 1950, also noted that The New Sun restaurant had a new chef, and “Also delicious are his boneless spareribs with sweet and sour sauce.”

The Record (CA), November 17, 1951
, published an ad for Canton Low, and their dinner special included Boneless Spareribs. 

The Tulare Advance-Register (CA), November 21, 1953, had an advertisement for the Chinese Tea House which offered Boneless Sparerib. 

The Houston Chronicle (TX), September 14, 1956, noted that at the Ding How restaurant they had “sweet and sour boneless spareribs.

The New York Amsterdam News (NY), November 22, 1969, made brief mention of "Sweet and Pungent Boneless Spareribs: Boneless spareribs dipped in egg, sautéed with pineapple, vegetables and green peppers flavored with sweet and pungent sauces."

Boneless spareribs though weren't referenced in any Massachusetts newspaper until around November 1981. The Boston Globe, May 20, 1987 ran an article with that stated, "The so-called boneless spareribs found in some Chinese restaurants are not really ribs at all....Rather they are thin strips cut from the pork butt or shoulder."

And it would be the 1980s that started to see more references across the country for "boneless spareribs," which resembled those we now see on restaurant menus. It's now much more difficult to find the original style of the dish, with a sweet and sour sauce, pineapple, and veggies. Today, the boneless spareribs that are commonly offered at Chinese restaurants today are generally presented on their own, without any accompanying vegetables or fruits. They are often an appetizer, part of a PuPu platter or combination special. So, boneless spareribs evolved over time, from the 1930s, just like bone-in spareribs. 

We now we have a deeper understanding of the spareribs, a staple appetizer in many Chinese restaurants.