The Origins of Chinese Spareribs & Boneless Spareribs

Ubiquitous at many Chinese restaurants are Chinese spareribs, known in China as páigǔ, which literally means "row of bones," an appropriately descriptive term. They are commonly served on the bone, on a plate with several individual ribs. In addition, at some Chinese restaurants you can also find boneless spareribs (although technically the meat isn't from spareribs). Chinese spareribs often possess a bright red color, which is commonly due to food coloring, and the first use of such food coloring might have originated in Boston, Massachusetts. 

When did Chinese spareribs first appear in the U.S.? And when did boneless spareribs first appear in the U.S.? Let's delve into their history, and also see some of the earliest recipes that were made available.    

Maybe the first documented reference to Chinese spareribs in the U.S. was in 1921. The Chicago Daily News (IL), June 25, 1921, reported that a man entered a Chinese restaurant and asked for "Chinese spareribs" but was served a chicken dish instead. This led to a physical fight, and the police got involved. The article didn't seem to indicate that Chinese spareribs were unique or rare, and implies that they had previously existed for some unknown time at Chinese restaurants. So, Chinese spareribs most likely existed in the U.S. prior to 1921, but we lack evidence to indicate when they first appeared. 

We also have to consider that this article didn't describe the Chinese spareribs so it's unclear the exact nature of the dish, and whether it resembled or not the modern versions of this dish. However, once we see subsequent recipes, in the later 1920s and 1930s, it seems probable the original dish was different from the modern version. 

The Columbia Missourian (MO), April 5, 1924, may have offered the first printed recipe for Chinese Spare Ribs. It's interesting to note that the ribs were supposed to be cut into small pieces, about 1 1/2 inches long. This is obviously different from the long spareribs you now receive at most Chinese restaurants. I'll note that the use of small pieces of ribs seemed common for many years to come. The sauce for the ribs was made of soy sauce ("Chinese sauce"), sugar, vinegar, salt, ginger powder and flour. These would not have possessed the bright red color we now find on most Chinese spareribs. 

A few years later, the Red Bluff Tehama County Daily News (CA), June 7, 1927, discussed another physical fight over spareribs at a Chinese restaurant. A couple Filipinos entered a chop suey restaurant, owned by Jung Don, and asked "Have you any spareribs, Chinese style, sweet and sour?" Jung told them that they didn't have enough money to pay for the spareribs. That led to a fight and the Filipinos were subsequently arrested for disturbing the peace. At the hearing, there was a "thesis on the Chinese style of preparing spareribs," and the Filipinos were convicted and made to pay a $25 fine. One of the defendants also stated that the Chinese and Filipinos never got along. 

The Times Standard (CA), May 25, 1928, published an advertisement for the Mandarin Café, which announced that “Pik-Woi (Chinese Style Spare Ribs)" would now be served. This was the only reference I found to the term "Pik-woi." 

The Cleveland Press (OH), April 17, 1929, published a recipe for "Chinese Pickled Spareribs," and it was reprinted in newspapers across the country, including in Michigan, Virginia, New York, New Jersey, Georgia, Tennessee, South Carolina, North Carolina, and Hawaii. Again, the ribs were to be cut into small pieces, although this time no more than 2 1/2 inches in length.

The World (OR), February 13, 1931, had an ad for the opening of The Tientsin restaurant, and their dishes included “Chinese Pickled Spare-Ribs” for 45 cents. 

The Times (NJ), March 29, 1934, had a recipe contest for their readers, and Mrs. C.F. Suppers won a $1 award for her "Chinese Spareribs" recipe. It was similar to the previous recipe for "Chinese Pickled Spareribs." 

The Star Press (IN), August 9, 1934, provided a restaurant ad for Oriental Gardens, which offered "Tonight Free Chinese Spareribs." Another ad in the Muncie Evening Press (IN), October 24, 1934, for the Four Hundred Club, mentioned they served Chinese Spareribs, prepared by their Chinese chef.

The Star Press (IN), October 26, 1934, in an ad for the Wooden Shoe Inn, stated they offered "Chinese Baked Spare Ribs." 

A celebrity loves spareribs! The Brooklyn Eagle (NY), November 22, 1934, provided details about  Johnny Marvin, a famous musician known for playing the ukulele, including that his favorite dish was Chinese spareribs. This article was reprinted in many newspapers across the country. 

The Evening Vanguard (CA), April 27, 1935, published an ad for the China Cafe, which offered "Chinese Roast Spareribs." I'll note that a number of these restaurant ads failed to describe the name of their spareribs dishes. Were they still the small pieces of spareribs as previously mentioned? 

The Baker City Herald (CA), September 20, 1935, in a restaurant ad for Toy's Noodle Parlor, stated, "You will....enjoy our Chinese Spare Ribs, well cooked with a lot of gravy." 

The News-Pilot (CA), October 26, 1935, printed a restaurant ad for Doc Crow's Brass Rail stated they served "The World Famous Chinese Barbecued Spare Ribs."  

The Crete News (NE), April 22, 1937, mentioned how Chinese pork spare ribs were cut in small pieces and cooked in a solution of rice vinegar, soybean sauce, salt and sugar for one hour at low temperature. 

A similar sentiment was provided in the Lovington Reporter (IL), November 19, 1937. An article stated, "The well known Chinese dish 'sweet-sour spare-ribs' is made by breaking the ribs into small pieces and cooking them, with any meat that happens to be attached, in sweetened vinegar." This continues the thread that Chinese spareribs at this time were still commonly cut into small bites, and marinated in a sauce, rather than the larger spareribs most restaurant now offer. 

The Los Angeles Times (CA), December 2, 1937, ran this brief ad mentioning Barbecued Spare Ribs.

Need to make spareribs for 75 people? The Sexton Cook Book for the Sexton Market (John Sexton & Co., 1937) provided a recipe for Chinese Spareribs (Chinese), although it was for quite a large portion. The spareribs were cut into 1 inch pieces and the ingredients included broth, vinegar, soy bean sauce, sugar, salt and cornstarch.

The San Francisco Chronicle (CA), February 18, 1938, had a brief ad for Red’s Cocktail Bar, offering “Chinese Bar-B-Q Spareribs.”

A recipe, for Chinese Spareribs, in the Sacramento Bee (CA), January 19, 1940, stated the ribs should be cut in "serving pieces" but there's no indication of what that actually constituted. 

The Bakersfield Californian (CA), September 13, 1941, printed an ad for the Bamboo Chopsticks restaurant, which sold "Chinese Barbecued Spareribs (actually Barbecued in a Pit)."

The Boston Traveler (MA), February 25, 1942, provided a recipe for Chinese Spare Ribs from one of their readers. The ribs were once again asked to be cut into one inch cubes. This may also be the first documented mention of Chinese spareribs in Massachusetts. They were not the type of Chinese spareribs which are now found at many places. 

The spread of Chinese Spareribs! The Miami News (FL), August 16, 1944, printed an advertisement for the Kitty Davis Theater Restaurant in Miami Beach, Florida. Kitty just introduced Chinese Barbecued Spareribs to her restaurant, and it was mentioned, "Take a tip from New York, Chicago and Los Angeles. People there are going wild about Chinese Barbecued Spareribs."

The Times Union (NY), February 7, 1946, mentioned, "Ever eat Chinese spareribs? Charlie Murray was telling us about eating them at Ruby Foo's. He said they were so good he wanted the recipe. Very simple. You soak them in a spicy marinade, then roast them in plum sauce. They're so good you want more, and then you start letting a notch or two out of your belt."

The Pasadena Independent (CA), March 12, 1946, provided a different recipe than many of the previous ones, and included a number of ingredients not previously used, such as ketchup and Worcestershire sauce. And there was no mention of cutting the ribs into small pieces. It seems as if these ribs were kept their usual size, and not cut into 1-2 inches pieces. 

The Chicago Tribune (IL), March 17, 1946, published the above photo of a dish of Chinese spareribs, showing that they were cut into small pieces. 

The newspaper also offered this recipe for the dish. 

The Los Angeles Evening Citizen News (CA), August 24, 1946, had an ad for Che-Li-Café which served “Special Chinese Bar-B-Q Pork Spare Ribs.” 

The El Paso Herald-Post (TX), August 31, 1946, also had an ad, for the Camp Grandę Cafe, which served "Chinese Barbecued Spare Ribs." 

The Coast Dispatch (CA), December 5, 1946, noted, "An especial feature is Chinese barbecued spare ribs which attracts many diners to the Grand." The Grand Cafe had a Chinese chef, Tom Koon.

The Cincinnati Enquirer (OH), December 10, 1946, printed this recipe for Chinese Spareribs, and it required cutting the ribs into 1 inch pieces. 

The Pontiac Daily Press (MI), May 27, 1948, had a recipe for Sweet Sour Chinese Spareribs, which called for the use of raisins. 

This recipe in the Worcester Telegram (MA), February 28, 1949, was submitted by a reader who said she learned it in Texas. Again, the ribs were cut into one-inch pieces, and I'll note the added ingredient of sherry, which wasn't mentioned in other recipes. 

The Minneapolis Star (MN), September 28, 1949, noted that one of the best items at Trader Vic's were their Chinese barbecued spare ribs. Those ribs would soon end up on their PuPu platters, starting a trend for many Chinese and Polynesian restaurants in the future. 

How long were Trader Vic restaurants serving Chinese barbecued spare ribs? In Trader Vic's Book of Food and Drink (1946), there is a brief mention of Trader Vic having hosted a party the year before, and one of the items served was a "bowl of barbecued spareribs" but the book didn't have a recipe for those spareribs. In Trader Vic's Pacific Island Cookbook (1968), he again failed to provide a recipe for the spareribs, except that he did provide a recipe for "what Chinese restaurants do with leftover barbecued spareribs." The recipe calls for those ribs to be cut into bite sized pieces. This may indicate that the Trader Vic restaurants were serving long barbecued ribs, which later might be cut into small pieces once they became leftovers.

The Detroit Times Extra (MI), November 15, 1949, mentioned, "Delicate spareribs, cooked the Chinese way with sugar for sweetness and vinegar for sweetness are a delicious treat. Fluffy rice is the natural accompaniment." The article also provided a recipe for Chinese Spareribs, which were cut into 2 inch pieces.

The San Francisco Examiner (CA), November 24, 1949, ran an ad for the Teacup Restaurant, "Specializing in Chinese Barbecued Spare Ribs."

Pork dominance! The Fort Collins Coloradan (CO), February 9, 1950, noted, "With pork products on top of the February list of plentiful foods, spareribs should be high on your menus now. The Chinese are skillful with spareribs usually served in a sweet-sour sauce as appetizers. They can also be used as the main dish served with rice, pickled turnips and salted almonds." They also provided a recipe for the spareribs, noting, "Cut spareribs in one-rib pieces." The Springville Journal, February 16, 1950, added, "Pigs will be one of our most plentiful crops in 1950, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture." And that article also mentioned "sweet-sour Chinese style, spareribs barbecued,..."

The Boston Herald (MA), February 4, 1957, printed this recipe for Chinatown Spareribs, which were cut into 2 inch pieces. Was this the dominant style of spareribs in Boston's Chinatown at this time? 

The Quincy Patriot Ledger (MA), May 18, 1959, provided a fascinating recipe for Chinese Spareribs, which apparently were not cut into small pieces. The only ingredients for taste included margarine, wine vinegar, garlic, salt and pepper. The recipe also called for red food coloring, and this might be the first printed recipe for spareribs calling for that particular ingredient. 

Today, red food coloring is commonly used on Chinese spareribs, giving it the bright red color that many people want to see on their ribs. And if that color isn't there, some of those people will complain about the looks of those spareribs. The food coloring doesn't add anything to the flavor, it's only for the visual effect. 

Who was the first to use red food coloring on Chinese spareribs? There actually is a candidate, someone from Boston, who may have thus started a significant trend for the future. A fascinating article appeared in the Boston Globe, September 3, 1962, titled, “Here’s How To Cook in Chinese.” The article discussed the famed Anita Chue, who, with her husband Gorden Chue, opened the acclaimed Cathay House in Chinatown in 1945. The Esquire Magazine, December 1958, stated that Cathay House was one of the best Cantonese restaurants in the entire country. 

In the Globe article, Anita provided advice on Chinese cuisine, as well as giving information about the dishes prepared at her restaurant. She mentioned that “In Chinese cooking eye appeal is important.” She provided some specific examples of dishes made at the Cathay House, and also noted that “Pure food coloring gives barbecued spareribs their rich red color. My husband, Gordon, did it first, Now everybody adds red coloring to pork marinade.” 

Is this actually the case? Was Gordon Chue the first to add red food coloring to Chinese spareribs? It's certainly possible, and no one else has stepped forward as another candidate. And, all of the early references to the use of such food coloring occur in Massachusetts newspapers, which adds credence to its first use in Massachusetts. It's unknown when Gordon first started using the food color, and it could have been anytime after 1945.

The Boston Globe, August 3, 1960, also had a recipe for Chinese-Style Spareribs, which called for the use of red food coloring. 

During the 1960s, many of the Chinese sparerib recipes started changing, so that the ribs weren't cut into small pieces any longer. They started becoming more like what we now know as Chinese spareribs, and other recipes, outside of Massachusetts, started using red food color too. So, after about 40 years since the first known reference to Chinese spareribs, they had transformed largely into what is now served in many Chinese restaurants.

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However, what about Boneless Spareribs? Many sources claim that boneless spareribs are a more recent invention, a less expensive alternative to bone-in spareribs as well as also being less messy. However, the first appearance of boneless spareribs in a Chinese restaurant in the U.S. actually extends back over 85 years, to the 1930s.

The Brooklyn Citizen (NY), March 12, 1938, briefly mentioned that the Cathay Restaurant, at West 52nd Street, Manhattan, offered “sweet sour boneless spareribs.”

Another mention was in the Courier Journal (KY), November 4, 1941. James Wong Howe, a Hollywood cameraman and restaurateur, owned a restaurant named Ching How, which was located near Hollywood. the restaurant had a special barbecue oven and their menu included, “Wor Siu Py Gutt: Boneless spareribs in sweet and sour sauce, sprinkled with crushed almonds.” This article was reprinted across the country, so many people thus heard about boneless spareribs. 

The Des Moines Register (Iowa), May 14, 1943, noted that the New Grand East Chinese restaurant in Los Angeles served “boneless spareribs with pineapple (a la Clark Gable).”

The Washington Daily News (D.C.), January 15, 1949, spoke to the chef from the Casino Royal, asking him about the dishes he brought with him from Hong Kong. He stated that included, “Sweet and Pungent Boneless Spareribs: Boneless spareribs dipped in egg, sauted in pineapple, vegetables and green peppers flavored with sweet and pungent sauces.” This is certainly very different to the basic version of boneless spareribs that dominates Chinese menus nowadays. 

The Washington Daily News (D.C.), January 21, 1950, also noted that The New Sun restaurant had a new chef, and “Also delicious are his boneless spareribs with sweet and sour sauce.”

The Record (CA), November 17, 1951, published an ad for Canton Low, and their dinner special included Boneless Spareribs. 

The Tulare Advance-Register (CA), November 21, 1953, had an advertisement for the Chinese Tea House which offered Boneless Sparerib. 

The Houston Chronicle (TX), September 14, 1956, noted that at the Ding How restaurant they had “sweet and sour boneless spareribs.”

The New York Amsterdam News (NY), November 22, 1969, made brief mention of "Sweet and Pungent Boneless Spareribs: Boneless spareribs dipped in egg, sautéed with pineapple, vegetables and green peppers flavored with sweet and pungent sauces."

Boneless spareribs though weren't referenced in any Massachusetts newspaper until around November 1981. The Boston Globe, May 20, 1987 ran an article with that stated, "The so-called boneless spareribs found in some Chinese restaurants are not really ribs at all....Rather they are thin strips cut from the pork butt or shoulder."

And it would be the 1980s that started to see more references across the country for "boneless spareribs," which resembled those we now see on restaurant menus. It's now much more difficult to find the original style of the dish, with a sweet and sour sauce, pineapple, and veggies. Today, the boneless spareribs that are commonly offered at Chinese restaurants today are generally presented on their own, without any accompanying vegetables or fruits. They are often an appetizer, part of a PuPu platter or combination special. So, boneless spareribs evolved over time, from the 1930s, just like bone-in spareribs. 

We now we have a deeper understanding of the spareribs, a staple appetizer in many Chinese restaurants.