Rant: Holiday Wines? Don't Be A Cheapskate

The holiday season is here, and many people will stop by their local wine shop to purchase wines for parties, dinners, or gifts, for Thanksgiving, Christmas, or other holidays. Let me provide you an important piece of advice, which applies to all the wine you'll purchase this holiday season.

Don't be a cheapskate! 

In preparation for the holidays, people stock up on wine to serve their guests at the various parties, feasts, dinners and celebrations. Often, because they are buying bottles in bulk, purchasing multiple bottles, their primary concern is price, not quality. So, they too often buy the large, commercial "value" wines, the brand names which are known to everyone. 

Please don't do it! 

It takes almost no thought to buy such wines. Though such wines might be drinkable, they aren't going to impress anyone. You've chosen to take the cheapest route possible, in both price and time. These wines are generally industrial products, created to taste the same year to year, and you never know what additives might be in these wines. They are like the McDonald's of the wine world. Do you really want to serve such wines to your loved ones, your family and friends?

There's a better way. 

If you're hosting a holiday party, don't you want to impress your guests? Or do you want to be known as the person who bought the cheapest wine available? Don't you want your guests to leave the party talking about the great time they had, telling others about the delicious wines they enjoyed? Or would you rather have them later complain that the wine was unappealing? It only takes a little extra work and price to elevate your wine selections.

I certainly understand the need to control your wine costs when you are providing for a number of guests. You don't have to buy $50 wines to impress your guests and you don't even have to spend $20 per bottle. I've purchased numerous $10-$15 wines, only a few dollars more than you might otherwise spend on those "value" wines, and brought them to parties where the other guests loved them, wanting to know where they could buy them.

There are good and interesting wines at this price point, if you know where to seek them out. If you want your holiday celebration to be even more popular, then you should serve those type of wines. The extra effort will elevate your party and please your family, friends, and other guests.

How do you find these inexpensive but interesting wines? At whatever wine shop you visit, it might be best to ask the wine store staff for recommendations of their best value wines. They should be able to direct you toward those inexpensive wines which will be more interesting and delicious than those cheap commercial wines. For example, at Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet in Melrose, where I work, I can recommend a number of much better value wines, from Vinho Verde to Montepulciano.

Most wine stores also offer a discount for bulk purchases, commonly 5-20%, and sometimes for as little as 3 bottles, which makes your wine cost even less expensive. And these are usually discounts that the wine store doesn't provide for the large-scale, commercial "value" wines. So, with those discounts, your prices for these better value wines can be even closer to that of the large-scale, commercial "value" wines.  

If for some reason you can't ask a store employee for some recommendations, then my best advice for selecting a good wine that is $15 or under, is to buy a Portuguese wine. I think some of the greatest value wines are coming out of Portugal, especially at this price point. Chances are that if you purchase a Portuguese wine costing $15 or less, you'll find a delicious wine, much better than similarly priced wines from most other regions. And there are plenty of Portuguese wines available in that price range. There is probably no other wine region where you can find as many good wines at that price point.

You also should know that paying a few dollars more for your wine can make a big difference. When you start considering wines priced from $15-$20, your options increase drastically. You can find some interesting wines from all over the world in that price range, though they still offer value. And if you are buying in bulk where the wine store offers a discount for larger purchases, you can save enough money so that the wines end up priced closer to $15 or less per bottle.

So this holiday season, don't buy the same old cheap wines. 

It won't take much effort to select some better choices, and still very inexpensively. In the end, you'll impress your guests, make your holiday party more memorable, and drink better wines.

(This is a revised version of a post originally from 2009.  It's an important enough issue to raise it again.) 

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) Located in Belmont’s center, The Wellington, helmed by executive chef & co-owner Dante de Magistris, has officially launched lunch, which is now available Tuesdays through Saturdays from 11:30am - 2:00pm. 

The new Lunch Menu can be found online here, and a sampling of the new lunch menu items include:
Mortadella Sandwich – thinly sliced mortadella with pistachios, ricotta, muffuletta olive mix, arugula pistachio pesto, italian sub roll, served with side of fries or salad ($23)
Caprese Sandwich – heirloom tomatoes, imported buffalo mozzarella, fresh basil, italian sub roll, served with side of fries or salad ($22)
Spinach Artichoke Flatbread – the classic dip baked over crispy flatbread, marinated artichoke hearts ($17)
Fried Chicken Sandwich – house fried chicken thigh, napa slaw, chili glaze, buttermilk ranch, pickles, kaiser bun, served with side of fries or salad ($22)
NY Bodega Chopped Cheese Sub – griddled and chopped beef with vidalia onions, peppers, pickles, well sauce and cheese on an iggy's italian sub roll, choice of fries, or salad ($24)

2) The Tavistock Restaurant Collection restaurants will be open on Thanksgiving Day serving their full dinner menus enhanced with Thanksgiving specials and prix fixe offerings.

Abe & Louie’s: Back Bay steakhouse Abe & Louie’s will be dishing out a collection of Thanksgiving specials in addition to serving their á la carte menu. To start, there’s butternut squash soup ($13) with spiced crème fraîche and candied pumpkin seeds. For a taste of tradition, opt for the Vermont-raised turkey dinner ($52) complete with whipped potatoes, stuffing, roasted Brussels sprouts, cranberry sauce and gravy. For something sweet, dig into the pumpkin cheesecake ($14) topped with vanilla whipped cream and caramel. Reservations from 11am-10pm so please call (617) 536-6300.  

Atlantic Fish Co.: Serving Boston since 1978, Atlantic Fish Co. will feature their full menu of seafood classics in addition to holiday specials. Start with butternut squash soup ($12) with candied pepitas, crème fraiche and crispy sage, or a roasted cauliflower salad ($16) with baby kale, squash and maple vinaigrette. For the best from land and sea, the entrees are roasted turkey ($46) with whipped potatoes, stuffing, green beans, cranberry sauce and gravy, or pan-roasted monkfish ($48) with cauliflower puree, Swiss chard and gremolata. For dessert, a pumpkin cheesecake ($12) with cinnamon whipped cream. Reservations from 11am-10pm so please call (617) 267-4000. 

Coach Grill: In Wayland, the Coach Grill will feature a Thanksgiving prix fixe ($72) in addition to their signature menu. For appetizers, there is butternut squash bisque with spiced crème fraîche, or a shaved Brussels sprouts salad with hazelnut, cranberry and lemon-thyme vinaigrette. For entrees, there’s roasted turkey with whipped potatoes, stuffing, butternut squash, green beans, cranberry sauce and gravy, or local sea scallops with vegetable risotto and Meyer lemon beurre blanc. For dessert, indulge in apple crumb tart with vanilla bean ice cream and salted caramel, or a pumpkin cheesecake with vanilla whipped cream. Coach Grill also offers a takeout Thanksgiving Family Feast (serves 4-6; $285) available for pickup in addition to á la carte sides by the tray – corn pudding ($45), traditional stuffing ($40), whipped potatoes ($40), green beans ($45), butternut squash ($50) – as well as quarts of gravy ($20) and cranberry sauce ($25). Reservations from 11am-8pm. Takeout orders can be placed through November 25 at 6pm for pickup on November 26-27 between 12-7pm. Please call (508) 358-5900. 

3) A couple other Thanksgiving dinner choices include:

Contessa Boston: Situated on the rooftop of The Newbury Boston, Contessa Boston, overlooks the city skyline, bringing the flavors of Northern Italy to Boston, and Thanksgiving is no exception. For Thanksgiving, guests can enjoy family-style dining ($195 per person) For the primi course, choose from Contessa's Meatballs Aldo, served with whole grain mustard sauce,or the famous Squash Carpaccio, featuring arugula, pumpkin seeds, and agrodolce. For the pasta course, enjoy Ricotta Gnudi di Pecora, served with black truffles. For the secondi course, there are several options including Roasted Turkey served with sage turkey gravy and select sides such as Turkey Stuffing, Cranberry Mostarda, and Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Pancetta. Those seeking an alternative to turkey, can order the Porterhouse for a $185 supplement. To end on a sweet note, choose from Pumpkin Gelato or Apple Pie. Please note that a 20% gratuity will be added to additional food and beverage. Reservations from 12:00pm to 8pm Thanksgiving Day. Please call (617) 741-3404. 

Matria Boston: The Northern Italian-inspired steakhouse at InterContinental Boston, Matria Boston, is celebrating Thanksgiving with several options for dining-in and to-go. In addition to Matria's full menu, guests can enjoy a special Traditional Roasted Turkey Dinner ($42) featuring roasted turkey with giblet pan gravy, chestnut focaccia stuffing, parsnip Yukon au gratin potatoes blended with Blue Hill cheese and pancetta, along with cranberry compote, and roasted fall vegetables including kabocha, corn, and brussels sprouts. To end dinner on a sweet note, there is the Chef's Dessert Table ($30 per person; $15 children ages 3-12) which includes coffee, tea, hot chocolate, or cider, along with nearly a dozen desserts and sweet treats like tiramisu, panna cotta, salted caramel cannoli, apple cider créme brûlée, sweet potato cheesecake lollipops, house-made pies, and gelato. *NEW* Those who crave leftovers are in luck, Matria will provide a small, packaged to-go box complete with sides and more to enjoy post-Turkey Day or as a Black Friday treat. Reservations are available for Thanksgiving dinner on Thursday, November 28, from 12:00 p.m. - 6:00 p.m. Please call (617) 217 5151. 

Rant: Don't Stress Over Choosing Your Thanksgiving Wines!

Every year countless people stress over which wines to pair with their Thanksgiving dinner. These people also worry that their holiday might be a failure unless they have the correct wines. The media contributes to this worry, with countless articles about the "proper" wines to have on Thanksgiving. The holidays can be stressful enough without having to worry about the wine, especially when those worries are generally needless.

Cast your memory back to last year's Thanksgiving. Can you remember which specific wines you had with dinner? Can you remember the specific wines you had with Thanksgiving dinner two years ago?

I'm sure that nearly everyone won't be able to remember except maybe in the most general terms. Maybe they recall having had a Pinot Noir or a Riesling. They are unlikely to recall the specific producer or much else about the wine. What they are more likely to remember is the good (at least hopefully it was good) time they had, the family and friends that shared their table. They might remember that the food and wine was good or bad but the specifics may be foggy.

Do you really need to worry about specific Thanksgiving wine recommendations? I don't think so. The more I ponder the question, the more I realize that all you need for Thanksgiving are some good wines, the varietals and/or blends being much less important. As long as they do not blatantly clash with the meal, then they should work just fine. And few wines are going to so blatantly clash. Drink wines you'll enjoy and don't worry so much about "perfect pairings."

A Thanksgiving meal is diverse, with many different flavors, from savory to sweet, and many different textures. No single wine is a perfect pairing with all these different dishes. So you need wines that people will enjoy in of their own right. I don't think many hosts are seeking the "perfect" wine pairing. They simply want something that people will enjoy and which won't greatly detract from the food.

Plus, who will remember the wines next year?

We must also remember that any wine shared with good friends and family is likely to taste better, or at least seem that way, than one drank alone. The circumstances of the day, the good feelings, the fond memories, the thanks for the past year, will all lead to your wine seeming better. And it's all those surrounding circumstances that people will most remember about Thanksgiving. The wine will always take the back seat.

The wine is simply an extra, not a necessity. It pales in importance to everything else about the holiday. Like the Whos from "The Grinch Who Stole Xmas," there should still be joy even if all of the food and wine have been taken away.

I will bring a variety of wines to my Thanksgiving feast, a mix of sparkling wine, white, red and dessert wines. In general, I'll pick interesting and delicious wines that I feel people will enjoy. I won't spend much time worrying about pairing them with specific dishes and foods, although I will consider which wines might clash too much with the various dishes. I want wines that will make people smile, that will enhance the spirit of the day.

If you want some assistance with selecting wines to make your guests smile, then come see me at the Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet shop in Melrose. I can show you plenty of delicious and interesting wines which would work well for your Thanksgiving table. I can show you different wines rather than the traditional pairings. Everyone else might bring the standard wines, so why not stand out by bringing a more unique wine?

Consider wines, both whites and reds from Croatia, Greece, Uruguay, Peru, Lebanon, Hungary, or Georgia. The shop has wines from around 25 different countries. Consider Unoaked Chardonnay from Australia, Pinot Noir from New Zealand, or Bonarda from Argentina. Pick up some Bubbly, from Cava to Cremant, Grower Champagne to Mexican Sparkling Wine. If you want something domestic, consider a White Pinot Noir from Oregon or Gewurtztraminer from California. Try an Orange Wine, a skin-contact white wine, which goes well with roast turkey. You should also consider Sake for your Thanksgiving table, which is actually a very food friendly beverage, and we have a diverse selection from Sparkling Sake to Junmai Daiginjo. If you want more Natural Wines, the store stocks over 300 such wines. For after-dinner consumption, consider Port (Ruby to White) or Sherry.       

Please also check out our weekly Wine Tastings, held on Thursday nights from 5-7pm and Saturday afternoons from 1-4pm. During the upcoming tastings, we will be showcasing numerous wines which will be fitting for Thanksgiving. Come see me and taste something different.

Whatever you do for Thanksgiving, enjoy yourself and appreciate all that you have, rather than worry about what you do not.

(This is an expanded/revised version of a post originally from 2009. My basic sentiment has not changed one iota since that time and I felt it was important enough to raise it once again.)

Bringing Back a 200 Year-Old Thanksgiving Tradition: Doughnuts

Think about all the delicious, traditional dishes on your Thanksgiving table. The roast turkey, cranberry sauce, sweet potatoes, gravy, stuffing, pumpkin pie, mincemeat pie, and more. However, there's probably an item, with over 200 years of tradition, that isn't on your Thanksgiving table. And it's time to bring back that tradition, making your Thanksgiving feast even tastier.

The Doughnut.

The tradition of Thanksgiving doughnuts potentially extends back to the late 18th century, around 1798 (and maybe even earlier), although newspaper references didn't start mentioning the tradition until the 1830s. Those references continued until into the 1950s, when it soon after largely seemed to die out for unknown reasons. 

We need to revive this tradition, to bring the beloved doughnut back to the Thanksgiving table. I'm sure plenty of people would embrace this tradition, and revel in the delectable taste of a doughnut with their turkey dinner. There's no reason this tradition should die out, when it's so easy to bring it back. If tradition is at all important to you, then why not embrace this one?

So, start making your plans now, whether you decide to make your own doughnuts at home or purchase them from your favorite doughnut shop. Hopefully, local doughnut shops will get behind the revival of this tradition as well, creating special flavored doughnuts for the holiday. However, many doughnut shops appear to be closed on Thanksgiving, so you may need to purchase them the day before. Making them at home might be your best option for getting the freshest doughnut.

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The ancestor of the doughnuts is the olykoek ("oily cake"), which was brought to New York by Dutch settlers around the 17th century. It was more like a cruller in shape, and lacked a hole like the doughnuts of today. The term "doughnut" seemed to come into use around the start of the 19th century, and there wouldn't be holes in doughnuts until the mid-1800s, allegedly as early as 1847, but definitely by the early 1860s. 

One of the first mentions of the term "dough nuts" was in a cookbook, The Frugal Housewife or Complete Woman Cook (1803) by Sussannah Carter. It provided probably the first printed recipe for dough nuts, and the shape of it was up to the cook. 

In the U.S., one of the first newspapers to use the term "doughnuts" was the Vermont Republican (VT), September 25, 1809, which stated, "Go my dear and put the big spider on the fire, and we'll have some doughnuts for supper."

A number of sources allege that the term "donut" first appeared in print in 1900, but that is erroneous, and it actually made its first appearance at least as far back as 1856. The Boston Post (MA), May 19, 1856, mentioned the sign outside a rural grocery store that stated, "Hot cofey tee ginger and spruce bear pies donuts piled Egs pigs fete..." The Wheeling Daily Intelligencer (WV), October 2, 1857, printed an article that noted, "Donuts, krullers, and ice cream sirkilated throo the crowd, and was libbrally encurridged; the donuts bein useful as spunges to absawb the surplis lickquid in the stummick,..." And during the rest of the decade, and into the 1860s, the term "donuts" continued to be used. 

When and how did the doughnut acquire its hole? The earliest doughnuts lacked a hole, but the most commonly told origin tale of the hole is that it was created by Captain Hanson Crockett Gregory, of Portland Maine, in 1847, when he worked on a ship as a cook. However, multiple stories of why he created the hole exist, and there are even stories attributing the hole to his mother, Elizabeth. There is a lack of supporting evidence for Gregory's claim, which only came to light in 1916, about 70 years after its alleged creation.  

In 1916, Captain Gregory was a resident of the Sailors' Snug Harbor, of Quincy, Massachusetts (a retirement home for sailors), and was interviewed about doughnuts. He was mentioned in numerous newspaper articles at this time, many simply repeating the same article. However, some of the articles differed, even offering different facts. For example, his age was variously given from 81-85 years old. One article though, quoting Gregory, stated he had been born in November 1831, and invented the doughnut hole in 1947, when he was 16 years old, working as a cook on a ship. 

Gregory's tale was that he found that the usual square or diamond-shaped doughnuts often did not cook in the middle. So, he decided to use a biscuit cutter, making a hole in the doughnut, so they would cook properly. Later, he prepared the doughnuts for his family and friends, and the idea spread quickly from there. 

Why did he wait so long to come forward and claim to be the inventor of the doughnut hole? How good was his memory of an incident that occurred nearly 70 years before? Why isn't there any supporting evidence? 

The earliest newspaper reference to a doughnut with a hole is from May, 1861 in an article, titled The Grand Dough-Nut Demonstration, in the Bangor Daily Evening Times, May 30, 1861. The article noted, "The display of dough-nuts beggared description. There was the molasses dough-nut and the sugar dough-nut--the long dough-nut and the short dough-nut--the round dough-nut and the square dough-nut--the rectangular dough-nut and the triangular dough-nut--the single twisted dough-nut and the double twisted dough-nut--the 'light riz' dough-nut and hard kneaded dough-nut--the straight solid dough-nut, and the circular dough-nut, with a hole in the centre. There were dough-nuts of all imaginable kinds, qualities, shapes and dimensions." So, we can see, at this point, that doughnuts with a hole were but one type of doughnut that existed. 

Let's delve into the fascinating history of the tradition of the Thanksgiving doughnut, which may extend back over 200 years. 

We begin with an article in The Springfield Daily Republican (MA), November 25, 1888, which discussed a Thanksgiving feast that occurred approximately 90 years before. The writer's grandfather told him about the feast, and it included doughnuts. "The doughnuts were never forgotten, real old fashioned Thanksgiving donuts, rolled out in a round, just as big as a plate, cut in the middle into strips, twisted and then fried, just so." This meant that the tradition of Thanksgiving donuts may extend back to the late 18th century, to around 1798. 

The first newspaper reference I found to this tradition was the Daily Evening Advertiser (ME), November 17, 1834, which stated: “The Journeymen Printers from New England in the city of New York, have agreed to celebrate the forthcoming Thanksgiving in true Yankee style. Roast turkies, pumpkin pies, molasses gingerbread, dough-nuts, and all the etceteras of this well known Yankee holiday, are to crown the festive board.” 

This indicates that doughnuts were part of the "Yankee" tradition of Thanksgiving, although it doesn't state how long that tradition had been in place. We don't know how or why the tradition started, but this brief article didn't make it seem this was an oddity. It seemed only natural to enjoy doughnuts on Thanksgiving, just as natural as enjoying pumpkin pie.    

The Tennessean (TN), September 24, 1836, in an article on Thanksgiving, discussed a woman, preparing for the holiday the day before. "So the day afore thanksgivin' she called me into the tether room, that marm Peabody christened the parlor, to see what a lot o' pies and cakes and sausage meat and dough-nuts, she'd got made up, and charge me not to lay the weight on my finger upon one of 'em."

In a more local mention, The Baltimore Sun (MD), December 4, 1838, printed, “The Boston Times, describing Thanksgiving day, says ‘All is joy and cider, frolic and fried dough-nuts. Where were the pumpkin pies?”

There was another brief reference to the New England Thanksgiving tradition and doughnuts noted in the Rutland Weekly Herald (VT), October 15, 1839. The newspaper also stated that in Manhattan, doughnuts were called “Crawlers,” like a precursor to the word "Cruller." 

In the Baltimore Clipper (MD), November 13, 1839, it mentioned, "Life does not consist in merely breathing, as the Yankee said when he sat down to his thanksgiving dinner--and the way he swallowed the doughnuts and molasses gingerbread was a mercy to the turkies and other sweetmeats." 

In another local mention, a more poetic note, the Richmond Dispatch (VA), November 25, 1852, stated: “The Boston Post commemorates a thanksgiving raphsody (sic) as follows, “Yes, ye trencher-men, rejoice and be exceeding glad, for thanksgiving is nigh at hand. Let the good house wife bake up a goodly number of pumpkin pies, fix up the chicken fixens, and get their nice cakes and doughnuts ready---for thanksgiving is coming right along.”

There was another Thanksgiving poem in the Hillsdale Standard (MI), November 22, 1853. which stated: “Hark! The Turkies’ plaintive cries! Puddings rare, and pumpkin pies, Chickens fat and doughnuts round,..” This poem would be repeated in other newspapers through at least 1855. Doughnuts were definitely considered a Thanksgiving tradition. 

The Amherst Collegiate Magazine, conducted by the Students of Amherst College (Massachusetts, 1853), published an article state noted, "Thanksgiving at home--what a medley of good things are suggested by the words! What visions arise of puddings plum and plump, of swollen cakes and plethoric pies, of cranberries, apples, doughnuts, walnuts;.."

In My Sister Margaret: A Temperance Story by Mrs. C.M. Edwards (New York, 1859) there was a discussion of a Thanksgiving dinner, mentioning, "Loaves of cake and pots of doughnuts stood side by side; a large turkey was roasting before the kitchen fire,..."

There were a number of brief mentions of doughnuts and Thanksgiving dinners in the Cleveland Daily Leader (OH), December 2, 1861, Orange County Telegraph (VT), December 12, 1862, and the Pittson Gazette (PA), November 24, 1864. The Daily Missouri Democrat (MO), November 22, 1864, mentioned a call for 50,000 "old fashioned Thanksgiving doughnuts" to feed the soldiers who were at war. The tradition of Thanksgiving doughnuts had spread from New England, to make its way across the country. 

There were others brief mentions in the Rock Island Argus (IL), November 26, 1870, Guard of Honor Monthly (NY), December 1, 1872, Daily Kansas Tribune (KS), November 20, 1873, the Richmond Palladium (IN), November 25, 1874, the Champaign County Gazette (IL), November 27, 1878, and the Down Times (KS), November 20, 1890.  

In Our Young Folks: An Illustrated Magazine for Boys and Girls, edited by J.T. Trowbridge and Lucy Larcom (Boston, November 1870), there was The Soldier's Family--An Opera For Children, which had a discussion of Thanksgiving, and some of the treats served for that holiday, including "Doughnuts and apples and walnuts all cracked!" In a later passage, it was mentioned the doughnuts were fried.

The Vermont Gazette (VT), November 18, 1871, mentioned: “Thanksgiving occurs a fortnight from last Thursday. Get ready your turkies, cranberries, doughnuts, pumpkin pies and sich.” And the Richmond Weekly Palladium (IN), November 25, 1874, published an advertisement offering “Thanksgiving doughnuts at the Quaker City Bakery.” The Kansas City Times (MO), November 27, 1879, had a snippet, "And those mince pies--those mince pies--and then Thanksgiving doughnuts!--O, how Mother used to make them!" The Clinton Advocate (MO), November 26, 1885, offered a Thanksgiving poem, with a line stating: “Round the platter of doughnuts and pumpkin pies;” 

The Nashville Banner (TN), November 17, 1891, had a brief advertisement for a "Children's Store" which offered "Thanksgiving candies, pies, cakes and doughnuts."  The Miami Herald (FL), November 26, 1891, discussed a woman who was going to her New England home for Thanksgiving, and she looked for to assisting her mom, "Doughnuts were to be fried, pumpkin pies baked, the turkeys to be prepared, the one for boiling with its dressing and sauce of oysters, the other suitably stuffed to be roasted and eaten with its accompanying cranberries;..." The Indianapolis Times (IN), November 28, 1891, talked about the meeting of an art group where, "Talking, smoking and Thanksgiving doughnuts and cider closed the evening's entertainment."

The Gazette (IA), November 24, 1893, offered a brief advertisement, "Buy your home-made Thanksgiving pies, doughnuts, and fruit cake at Jackson's Wednesday morning."

The Pittsburgh Press (PA), November 28, 1894, had a brief ad for a leaf lard, stating your "Thanksgiving Doughnuts" would be "doubly delightful" if they were made with this lard. The Pittsburgh Post-Gazette (PA), November 18, 1895, printed: “The chilly evenings and frosty mornings remind us that Thanksgiving is almost here. The turkey is fattening, the doughnuts are frying, and as for pies, none other than mince pies will be considered for the Thanksgiving dinner.”

A Thanksgiving song. The Appleton City Journal (MO), November 26, 1896, printed a "Thanksgiving Song" and one of the lyrics stated, "Heigh ho! for dear jolly Thanksgiving, with doughnuts and cranberry sauce." The New Herald (PA), November 18, 1897, briefly mentioned a "Thanksgiving Doughnut Feast" was to be held by a local church. 

The Post Intelligencer (WA), November 11, 1906, mentioned "Autumn decorations were a fitting background for Thanksgiving refreshments, the never-to-be-forgotten doughnuts, cider and pumpkin pie." 

This is the only doughnut recipe I found that specifically named them "Thanksgiving Doughnuts." The recipe was in the Tulsa Sunday Times (OK), November 26, 1916. It's not a difficult recipe and you could make them yourself this upcoming Thanksgiving. 

The St. Joseph News-Press (MO), November 26, 1919, published an ad for a new doughnut shop, which stated "Get your Thanksgiving doughnuts tonight." The doughnuts included: perfect cream doughnuts, frosted doughnuts, nut top doughnuts, French doughnuts, and chocolate top doughnuts. 

The Muskogee Daily Phoenix (OK), November 27, 1919, had a doughnut shop ad, which stated, "Call on us for your Thanksgiving Doughnuts."

Another lard advertisement! The Evening Times (PA), November 19, 1920, printed an ad about Bailey's Home Rendered Lard, which stated, "The minute you drop a Thanksgiving doughnut in the fat, it starts frying at once. When done the doughnut will be tender and delicious."

The Evening Gazette (MA), November 23, 1920, had an ad for Lemmon's Bakery, which offered donuts for Thanksgiving for 25 cents a dozen. 

Thanksgiving doughnuts even extended as far west as Hawaii! They were no longer just a New England tradition. The Honolulu Advertiser (HI), November 22, 1921, posted an ad asking people to order their Thanksgiving Doughnuts from the Doughnut Shop. 

The Daily Times, November 22, 1921, also had an advertisement for Thanksgiving doughnuts, noting "Doughnuts are a balanced food--Fat, Starch, Eggs and Milk."

The Oregon Sunday Journal (OR), November 25, 1928, mentioned that "indispensable thanksgiving goodies! Thanksgiving donuts, pumpkin and mince pies are synonymous!"

The Knoxville News-Sentinel (TN), November 28, 1928, mentioned that women from a local church were holding a "Thanksgiving doughnut" sale. There was another advertisement in the The Record (NJ), November 26, 1929, which briefly stated, “Doughnuts and Thanksgiving go hand in hand.”

It seems Thanksgiving doughnuts might not have been popular all across the country. In the The State (SC), November 18, 1930, it noted, “The difficulty in writing ‘household hints’ for the whole country is illustrated by the Thanksgiving bill of fare proposed by the Associated Press ‘Homemaker,’ Loise Bennett Weaver, which makes doughnuts an important item. Imagine doughnuts on a Southern table on Thanksgiving Day!” 

Thanksgiving donuts even showed up in Canada! The Saint John Times Globe (New Brunswick, Canada), October 15, 1935, noted that a local church group would be having a sale of "Thanksgiving doughnuts." It appears this tradition had traveled north to Canada. 

The Indianapolis Star (IN). November 27, 1935, ran a news article about a new doughnut machine at Sears, Roebuck & Co., where customers could watch them being made. The machine could produce 35 dozen Thanksgiving doughnuts in an hour.  The Commercial Appeal (TN), November 27, 1935, had a Thanksgiving recipe for Molasses Drop Cookies, which was made with a special new lard shortening, and it was noted, "... it clicks with everything. For roasting the Thanksgiving turkey, for frying the Thanksgiving doughnuts..."

The Daily Messenger (NY), November 22, 1937, published an ad for The Downyflake Shop, which asked you to "Order Your Thanksgiving Cakes, Doughnuts, Cookies and Pastries Now!"  And the Democrat & Chronicle (NY), November 18, 1939, had a small ad, "Mayflower Doughnuts--For Thanksgiving. Plain, sugar, cinnamon, nut crunch."

The Sun-Journal (ME) November 15, 1941, offered an article on "Honoring The Holiday Doughnut," which included a lengthy history of the doughnut. The article began, "No real New England Thanksgiving dinner, following the tradition of generations, would be complete with doughnuts left out." 

There was a brief note in the Troy Daily New (NY), November 21, 1942, which mentioned a "Thanksgiving doughnut sale" at a local church. 

After this time, generally after World War II, many newspapers apparently stopped almost all mentions, except for a mere handful, of Thanksgiving doughnuts. It's possible that World War II, where doughnuts played an important role in some respects, might have contributed to the elimination of the tradition of doughnuts on Thanksgiving, although that is only speculation. The timing though seems coincidental, so it's an avenue that warrants additional research. 

The following are a few of the continued mentions of Thanksgiving donuts. 

The Windham County Observer (CT), November 18, 1947, provided a little info on Dave's Doughnut Shop, noting it "... has just what you want for that Thanksgiving social. Doughnuts, light as a feather,.." They cost 35 cents for a dozen of the plain doughnuts. They also sold frosted, cinnamon and powdered sugar doughnuts.  

The Denver Post (CO), November 24, 1948, ran an ad for Dunkin', mentioning "Thanksgiving donuts," and they came in several different flavors, including Pecan Caramel, Coconut Chocolate, Chocolate, Cinnamon Sugar, Plain, and Plain Sugar. 

There was a brief mention in the Los Angeles Evening Citizen News (CA), November 20, 1954, of a Thanksgiving doughnut sale by the PTA. And the Berkeley Gazette (CA), November 11, 1955, also had a brief note of Thanksgiving doughnuts. 

Thanksgiving Doughnuts once again in Canada! The Montreal Star (Quebec), September 29, 1956, had a lengthy article about Thanksgiving dinner, with a number of recipes. One of those recipes was for "Thanksgiving Doughnuts." These were plain, fried doughnuts, without an inner hole. This recipe would also be printed in a couple newspapers in Ontario.

The Record-Courier (OH), November 24, 1958, ran an ad for Smith's Pie Shoppe, telling people to "Order Tomorrow for Thanksgiving Donuts."

The Bridgeport Telegram (CT), November 23, 1959, printed an advertisement for Dunkin' Donuts, that stated, "Heap a lazy Susan with Thanksgiving Dunkin' Donuts when dessert time rolls around."

The Salisbury Post (NC), November 20, 1963, mentioned that there would be a Thanksgiving Day doughnut sale hosted by a National Honor Society. 

The largest Thanksgiving doughnut. The Hood County News (TX), November 25, 1979, briefly related that, "The world's first and largest Thanksgiving doughnut..." was recently unveiled. It weighed over 40 pounds and was said to be able to feed 300 people. A local doughnut shop spent 32 hours making this doughnut. 

There was a brief ad in The Evening Gazette (MA), November 20, 1980, that stated "Get your Thanksgiving donuts here at Mr. Donut."

The Bridgeton News (NJ). November, 23, 1999, ran an ad for Fisher's Food Center, and one of their Bakery offerings was "Thanksgiving Doughnuts" for $3.99 a dozen.

It's time to revive this Thanksgiving tradition, to bring the doughnut back to your Thanksgiving table! I have been doing so for the last few years and plan on continuing to do so each year. I know a few of my friends who have being bringing back this tradition as well.  I'm sure everyone at your Thanksgiving table would be very happy to see fresh doughnuts there. It's an easy and tasty tradition to follow. 

Who else believes we should bring back this tradition? Which doughnut stores will help to lead a path to the revival of Thanksgiving doughnuts? Who else plans to following this tradition this year? 

(This article was originally posted in August 2022 and has been significantly revised/expanded in October 2025.)

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) On Saturday, November 1, Margaritas Mexican Restaurant will get in the “Day of the Dead” spirit(s) with a family-friendly experience honoring the traditional Mexican holiday. 

• Calavera Facepainting: In true “Día de los Muertos” fashion, Margaritas will have complimentary facepainting* available for families who festively feast. Complimentary facepainting available at select locations (CT: East Hartford. MA: Framingham, Revere, Waltham. ME: Brunswick, Portland. NH: Concord, Dover, Exeter, Keene, Manchester, Nashua, Portsmouth, Salem.) 
• All Treats, No Tricks: Say “adios” to the sugar rush the day after Halloween by bringing sealed sweets into Margaritas which will be gifted to “Treats for Troops,” Soldiers’ Angels annual candy collection program donated to VA hospitals, military installations as well as guard and reserve units. The reward for little ones willing to part with their pirate’s booty? A complimentary kids entrée* with options like tacos, fajitas, quesadillas and burritos complete with a side, beverage and ice cream treat. *Dine-in only for children 12-and-under. Limited to one kids’ entrée per candy donation. 
• For Vamps Who Need to Feed:  Now through November 2, Margaritas is stirring up a special potion, the Tequila Transfusion ($18) cocktail special – with Tequileño blanco, triple sec, and Margs signature “El Corazón Squeeze” mix of passionfruit, blood orange and pomegranate purees – served in (what else?) a “blood” bag. For the juice that’s worth the squeeze but not the hangover, opt for the nonalcoholic Monster’s Blood ($7.50) version. .Cocktail specials available now through November 2. 

2) Prezza, in Boston’s historic North End, is embracing the fall season with a new dinner menu from Chef Anthony Caturano. The updated lineup celebrates autumn’s most comforting ingredients - from a velvety Acorn Squash Soup with lobster, fried sage, and crème fraîche, to indulgent Pumpkin Ravioli tossed with lobster meat, brown butter, sage, and Parmigiano. Guests will also find heartier additions perfect for chilly evenings, including Roasted Duck Breast with crispy leg confit, brussels sprouts, roasted baby carrots, and Amarena cherry sauce, alongside seasonal sides like maple-glazed brussels sprouts and roasted baby carrots. Check out the full Menu HERE.

Agape Cakes & Confections: Unconditional Bakery Love in New Hampshire

I made a recent visit to Epping, New Hampshire, and prior to reaching my ultimate destination, I decided to stop in Raymond, New Hampshire, to check out Agape Cakes & Confections, a bakery with Greek influences. Overall, based on my initial impressions, I was very pleased with their delicious offerings and will return again to check out more of their baked goods. 

The bakery, owned by Reni, had its origins in 2020, when the company was run out of her home. In April 2022, Reni opened a brick and mortar shop, at 59 NH-27 Unit 5, Raymond, across the street from The Tuckaway Tavern. The name, "Agape," is a Greek word that is often translated as "unconditional love." Their website mostly has information about their Cakes, but their Facebook page has plenty of information and photos about their other baked goods. And those photos certainly enticed me to check out the bakery. 

Reni's website states: "My expertise lies in crafting custom cakes and cupcakes, each boasting a range of exquisite flavors. Drawing inspiration from my Greek heritage, we also offer a wide range of authentic Greek pastries, with a particular standout being the beloved baklava."

They offer Muffins, Scones and their own Pop-Tarts (in flavors such as Brown Sugar, Pumpkin, Apple Pie and Raspberry).

They also make Turnovers, Danish and Cinnamon Rolls (said to be one of their top sellers).

I was excited to see their Greek pies, including Ham & Cheese, Feta, Spinach, and Spinach & Artichoke. I bought the Ham & Cheese and Feta pies, and they were both ample-sized, with many layers of flaky pastry and filled with plenty of tasty meat and cheese. A hearty and delicious breakfast or lunch treat and strongly recommended. 

Plenty of other baked goods, such as Lemon Squares, Eclairs, Baklava Cheesecake, Chocolate Chip Cookie Pie, and much more. I got the Galaktoboureko, a traditional Greek dessert featuring a custard baked in a crispy phyllo pastry crust, soaked with a sweet syrup. It was quite tasty, very flaky with sweet and creamy custard, and definitely was a fine example of this dessert which I have previously enjoyed at a few other places. They also sell Chocolate Whoopie Pies and Pumpkin Whoopie Pies, and I got a few of the small Chocolate Whoopie Pies. The cake was soft and chocolatey, with a very creamy inner frosting. A good choice.

They have a few Gluten-Friendly items, such as Flourless Chocolate Cake and Lemon Squares. They also non-Gluten Friendly items such as Chocolate Sundae Case Cake, Chocolate Banana Cookies, and Pumpkin Maple Doodles.  

I had to try the Chocolate Banana Cookies, which are "Soft banana bread cookies topped with a swirl of rich chocolate ganache and finished with banana chips." The cookie possessed a more subtle, but tasty, banana flavor and the rich and creamy chocolate was a delight. The crunchy bananas chips added a nice textural contrast to the rest of the cookie. This also earns my hearty recommendation. 

They also sell a variety of Cupcakes, other Gluten-Friendly options, and more. 

Agape offers a diverse selection of baked goods, some Greek-inspired, and based on what I've tasted, they are generally delicious and well-made. No matter what your preference, you'll probably find something that appeals to you, and I strongly recommend you check out their Greek-inspired pies and desserts. Give some love to Agape. 

Rant: Don't Forget The Less Fortunate!

Now that October has begun, you're probably already looking forward and thinking about the upcoming holidays, starting to make preliminary plans for the fine food & drinks that you'll enjoy and share with family and friends. You might be perusing cookbooks or websites to locate decadent recipes to thrill your guests. You might be planning which fine wine to uncork for your special friends. You might be pondering which pricey gifts to purchase for your family and friends. It can be a time of gluttony, hedonism and excess.

However, please stop and ponder another significant thought: Don't forget those less fortunate. Let's work together to help those who need some assistance, even if it requires a little sacrifice on our parts. Make this a meaningful holiday season, rather than a selfish one.

Though many of us love and enjoy the holiday season, it can be a very sad and disappointing time for those with little or nothing. Every community has some people who find it difficult merely to pay for basic essentials, let alone to buy holiday gifts or prepare a special holiday feast. We can help though, and try to bring some joy to the less fortunate. Share your largess with others, helping those who truly need it.

I understand that these are tough economic times for many of us, with higher prices for so many items, and we have often been tightening our belts while shopping, restricting our spending in some ways. However, we probably can still help out others, even if only in little ways. If you cannot spare money, then donate your time, maybe spending it at a food bank or shelter. Or make something to give to others, such as baking a pie, cookies or casserole. Donate old clothes or other durable items which you no longer use. There are many different ways to help out others besides just monetary donations.

Let us share with others during this upcoming holiday season, bringing together everyone in a more united community. There are enough divisions in our world right now and we need more unity, especially at this time. Don't just think of yourself but think of others, think about what you can do to make this world a better place.

During this season, there will be numerous restaurants, chefs, shops and others which will hold special charitable events. Talk about these events, promote them on social media, and spread the word far and wide. Attend those events, encouraging others to do the same. Give to your favorite charities, whatever they might be. Be creative in your efforts, even if your own finances are tight. 

Let us share with all during this upcoming holiday season.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) After a decade of running Brassica Kitchen + Café, siblings Jeremy & Rebecca Kean, along with partner Philip Kruta, have announced the upcoming opening of Brassica in a new, expanded space next door at 3712 Washington Street this October. The current location, a former coffee shop, which the trio took over in 2015 with a pop-up called Whisk, could no longer comfortably accommodate the business. 

The new restaurant will not only add seats, but also much needed kitchen, prep, and storage space, which will allow the team to grow, develop new skills, and expand the menu, while continuing to provide the food and service that Brassica Kitchen + Cafe is known for. 

At the new Brassica, Jeremy Kean will be able to take his menu and team to the next level. The larger, brighter space, renovated and refurbished top to bottom (all repurposed and sustainable) by co-owner Phil Kruta over the past two years, all while still operating the current location, has a bigger kitchen with more storage, a bigger bar, a private dining room space, and a wood-fired brick pizza oven. The new space will seat over 90 people - with a seasonal patio (next spring) and offer options for large parties and private events alike. Brassica will also debut a large marble bar with seating for about 14, complemented by nearby high-top tables and a full draft beer system. 

Brassica’s menu is ever evolving, blending Izakaya style dining, Italian comfort food, and French flavors with global fermentation techniques, zero-waste ethos, and improvisation. Dishes typically incorporate fermented ingredients like homemade miso, tamari, black apple (a riff on black garlic); creating bold, one-of-a-kind flavor profiles with seasonal New England ingredients.

The menu will now feature pizzas–both Roman and Detroit style–the doughs are fermented with the same sourdough starter that Philip and Jeremy have been using since their first pop-up. They will also feature rotating fish collars of charcoal, dry aged duck with gogo curry and black apple, a sashimi program with pickled rice and black garlic. The menu will be constantly rotating, reflective of Brassica’s early days, when diners had to visit daily to be able to catch everything on the menu.

Several beloved menu items will remain on the menu including the koji risotto with parmesan & parmesan shoyu, the B.K. fried chicken, served with maple umeboshi and giardiniera, and the B.K. fried rice with fresh and fermented veggies. In addition to the new Detroit and Roman style pizzas, the team will also introduce fresh made pasta to their menu.

Because everything at Brassica is repurposed, ethical, and sustainable, everything will be served on locally sourced thrifted dishware collected over the years by chef-owner, Jeremy Kean.

Under the direction of general manager and beverage director Anna Puiia, the cocktail menu will continue to feature beloved staples — like The Meguro #1 with rye whiskey, spirulina, ginger, and lime, and the Gray Gardens with mezcal or tequila, lavender, elderflower, and lime — alongside exciting new creations. The wine menu will remain focused on natural wines, all offered by the glass to encourage guests to taste and explore, while the beer program will expand to include multiple draft options (and possibly the return of a fan-favorite bottled selection from the original menu).

2) On Thursday, November 13, Tonno Wakefield will host a multi-course Wild Game Dinner. This certainly looks like it will be an exceptional event, with plenty of delicious wild game dishes. 

The Menu includes: 

FIRST: Grilled Quail, bacon, red wine lentils
SECOND: Stewed Rabbit ‘Cacciatore’, creamy Parmesan polenta
THIRD: Sliced Duck Arugula Salad, pomegranate vinaigrette, toasted pecans, goat cheese
FOURTH: Wild Boar Ragu, short cut rigatoni
FIFTH: Grilled Venison Tenderloin, sweet potato mashed, braised escarole
DESSERT: White Chocolate Bread Pudding

The Cost is $120 per person, which includes tax and gratuity. There will be a Cash Bar with suggested wine pairings. All guests in your party must have a ticket. Each ticket includes the full six-course dinner, and all attendees will be served the same menu. They are unable to mix menus at tables for this event. Make your Reservation HERE.

Rant: What Do You Know About Chinatown?

Over 50 years ago, Boston's Chinatown was described as the “oldest, but least known community” in Boston. The Sunday Herald Advertiser, February 24, 1974, stated, “Mention Chinatown and most Bostonians will tell you where their favorite restaurant is. But they couldn’t tell you much more.” 

Today, I think these statements remain true. Chinatown remains a place where most people think only of its restaurants, and would be hard pressed to say much more about it. How much do you know about Chinatown beyond its restaurants?

We should learn more about Chinatown, its history and its current status. It's an important community, one which extends at least back to the 1880s. It's also a community which has long been threatened by both external and internal issues, but has been resilient over all these years. The story of Chinatown is inspiring and fascinating, providing many lessons for other communities. Thinking of Chinatown only because of its restaurants is a disservice, as it has so much more to offer.

One place to start is my lengthy history of Boston's Chinatown and its Restaurants, which starts with the first Chinese, a teenager, who lived in Boston back in 1796. The series of articles then detail the history of Boston's Chinatown, relating many fascinating stories about the Chinese who came to Boston and the eventual establishment of Chinatown. There's plenty of information about the Chinese restaurants in Chinatown, but there's also plenty of non-restaurant information as well. The history series currently ends in the 1960s, but I'm working on a new article that will deal with the 1970s. 

For more current events about Chinatown, you should check out the Sampan, a bilingual Chinese-English newspaper, which is based in Chinatown but reaches all over New England. This is one of the best sources about the problems and achievements of the Chinese community in Boston. I have previously written for the Sampan, and you can find links to my 40+ articles HERE.  

In the last five years, with the advent of COVID, Chinatown hit a low point. Businesses took a hard economic hit, especially some of their restaurants even when they were permitted to reopen. Some restaurants lost as much as 90% of their business, and some even had to close. During this period, racism against the Chinese became even more prominent than usual, which caused numerous problems, including physical assaults on the Chinese. The Chinese have had to deal with racism throughout their entire history in the U.S. and it's terrible that this racism still exists. Chinatown needs your support and more than just your patronage of their restaurants. 

So, educate yourself about Chinatown, and all of its aspects, and not just the places where you can eat.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) Kane’s Donuts is pleased to announce two limited-edition seasonal donuts with fall favorites from Samuel Adams and Angry Orchard to bring customers the Sam Adams Jack-O Pumpkin Ale Donut and Angry Orchard Hard Apple Cider Donut. These fall flavors are in stores beginning October 1 and available through October at all Kane’s Donuts locations.

Tapping into Samuel Adams Jack-O Pumpkin Ale, Kane’s has crafted yet another seasonal delight. The Sam Adams Jack-O Pumpkin Ale Donut is a pumpkin’d cake-style donut, drenched in Kane’s honey glaze infused with a reduction of award-winning Sam Adams’ Jack-O Pumpkin Ale. Kane’s Angry Orchard Hard Apple Cider Donut is a cake-style apple cider donut made with fresh apple cider and a hint of cinnamon, then dipped in Kane’s honey glaze reduced with Angry Orchard Crisp Apple Hard Cider.

Sam Adams Jack-O Pumpkin Ale is the pick of the patch with cinnamon and nutmeg aromas that recall memories of freshly baked pumpkin pie. It has a balance of seasonal spices with a crisp, refreshing finish. At 4.4% ABV, Jack-O finishes smooth with a lingering, subtle notes of fresh citrus. 

Angry Orchard Crisp Apple Hard Cider is nothing short of biting into a crisp fall apple freshly picked from the tree. At 5% ABV, it is a perfect balance of sweetness and bright acidity from culinary apples, combined with the dryness of traditional cider-making apples, resulting in a complex yet refreshing hard cider. 

For the month of October, Kane’s will also feature the Caramel Apple Crunch Donut, an airy yeast donut filled with apple pie filling, frosted with Kane’s homemade caramel, and topped with Kane’s Butter Crunch. The Vegan Fall Funfetti Donut is Kane’s vegan cake-style donut, complemented with fall sprinkles folded in the dough, then drenched in a sweet glaze and topped with sprinkles. The Gluten Free Apple Cider Donut is a cake-style donut loaded with spices and apple cider, then rolled in fresh ground cinnamon and sugar. Plus, Kane’s uses real, fresh local cider in their donuts. The Gluten-Free Pumpkin Spice Donut is a cake-style donut made with real pumpkin, nutmeg, and cinnamon, and is drenched in Kane’s Signature Honey Glaze. This donut is gluten-free, dairy-free, and nut-free. The Marble Cruller Donut is a cake-style classic donut with Kane’s twist of rich chocolate and cake doughs combinedinto a cruller, cooked to a crispy texture, and then drenched in Kane’s signature honey-dip glaze.

2) Eva's Little Kitchen, with locations in Bedford and Concord (newly opened), they have some Specials coming in October.

First, Eva’s Little Kitchen is celebrating National Banh Mi Day on Friday, October 10th with a buy one, get one 50% off promotion for its Pork Belly Banh Mi dish at both West Concord and Bedford locations, from 8am-3pm. Eva’s Pork Belly Banh Mi is made with carrot, radish, cucumber, cilantro, sriracha mayo served on ciabatta and usually sold for $17.

Eva’s Little Kitchen is also celebrating National Dessert Day on October 14th early by offering free chocolate chip mini cookies to the first 25 customers at both West Concord and Bedford locations each day on Sunday, October 12th and Monday, October 13th.

Eva’s typically bakes anywhere from 3-5 dozen of its chocolate chip cookies every day, which are sold for $4.75 and one dozen for $57. The chocolate chip cookies contain two kinds of chocolate and both chocolates vary in the consistency, so the chocolate is really dispersed throughout. They’re chewy, gooey, and not too sweet. They’re topped with Maldon flakey salt which really helps balance it all out. Eva’s uses the best raw ingredients it can source - from the flour to the butter - and high quality chocolate.

3) il Casale (with two restaurant locations in Belmont and Lexington) is hosting a Chef’s Choice Pasta Contest for National Pasta Day. From October 1st through October 14th, contestants are invited to send a pasta recipe and photo to il Casale executive chef & co-owner Dante de Magistris at pasta@ilcasalegroup.com, who will hand select a winner to be announced on October 17th (National Pasta Day). The winner will have their pasta dish featured on both il Casale menus all weekend long from Friday, October 17th through Sunday, October 19th.

il Casale is an intimate, rustic-Italian farmhouse restaurant offering equal parts traditional Italian cuisine and exclusive family classics. The menu is structured to resemble the courses of a traditional Italian meal and are helmed by co-owner & executive chef Dante de Magistris, who takes inspiration from his Grandmother’s family recipes, travels to his family's hometown in Italy, and techniques he learned under years of guidance by Michelin-Starred Chef Don Alfonso in the Sorrento Peninsula. Owned by the de Magistris brothers who grew up above their father’s hair salon down the street, il Casale offers seasonal indoor and outdoor dining options at both locations.  

In addition to the Chef’s Choice Pasta Contest, il Casale has recently rolled out new Nonna-inspired fall dishes and cocktails, including: Fall Dishes helmed by co-owner & executive chef Dante de Magistris: Gamberi Risotto (shrimp, saffron cream risotto, broccoli rabe); Pesce Spada alla Griglia (grilled swordfish, butternut squash pine nut pesto, spinach, crispy sage, grilled lemon); Ravioli ai Fungi (mushroom ravioli, corn cream, aged white balsamic reduction, crispy kale, parmigiano crumbs). 

2022 Olivier Roten Dôle Coteaux de Sierre: A Swiss "Blood of Hell" Wine

In Switzerland, wine production extends back at least to the ancient Romans. Today, the two most commonly planted grapes in Switzerland are Pinot Noir and Chasselas, which total almost 60% of their plantings. However, Switzerland currently exports only a tiny percentage of their wines, so it's difficult to find their wines at local wine shops. Some are available in Massachusetts, and they are worth seeking out. 

Including the Blood of Hell.

In Valais, a canton and AOC in Switzerland located in the southwestern part of the country, there is a municipality called Salgesch. There's a legend that a group of knights once came to Salgesch to visit the Knights of St. John. The visiting knights were given wine, the Knight of St. John had produced from their own vineyard. The visitors drank so much wine, they apparently got quite drunk, wondering what they had consumed, referring to it as a "real wine from hell." This wine then acquired the nickname of "Sang de l'enfer," meaning "blood of hell" in French. This wine was Dôle, from the Valais AOC. 

The Gamay grape was introduced in the Valais region around 1859, and a Geneva botanist, Augustin Pyramus de Candolle, gave the name “Dôle” to the Gamay grape, naming it after a French city, which was also the birthplace of Louis Pasteur. Over time, Dôle began to refer to more just Gamay, but rather a wine blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir. It also eventually became a protected appellation in Valais, with specific regulations as to the composition of the blend.

However, in 2021, the regulations about Dôle changed, so that the blend must now consist of at least 51% Pinot Noir and Gamay, although Pinot must dominate. In addition, the rest of the blend, up to 49%, can consist of other red grapes such as Cornalin, Humagne, Rouge, Syrah and others. 

I recently enjoyed a Dôle wine, with a more traditional blend of only Pinot Noir and Gamay. The 2022 Olivier Roten Dôle Coteaux de Sierre (about $25) was produced by the Caves du Paradis, which is located in the township of Sierre, along the Rhône River in the Swiss Alps. The winery was founded in 1959 by Alex Roten, and 30 years later, in 1989, his son, Raphaël Roten, took over the estate. Most recently, Olivier Roten, the son of Raphaël, took over. The winery now owns about 25 acres of vineyards, about 600-800 meters above sea level. The winery has seeking Organic certification and is otherwise sustainable.

The 2022 Olivier Roten Dôle Coteaux de Sierre is a blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Gamay, with a 13% ABV. The wine was fermented in stainless steel and then aged for at least 6 months in concrete tanks. It has a light red color, translucent, and an appealing nose of strawberry, black cherry and a touch of earthiness. On the palate, it's a light bodied and elegant wine, with fresh flavors of red fruits, such as raspberry and strawberry, a touch of earthiness, and hints of minerality. It possesses good acidity, mild tannins, and a lengthy, satisfying finish. Would be a nice pairing with salmon to roast chicken, pizza to burgers. An easy-drinking wine, but not a simple one. Highly recommended.

Rant: How Do You Mainstream Sake?

How do we make Sake, that diverse and fascinating Japanese alcoholic beverage, fermented from rice, more popular in the U.S.? It remains a niche beverage that hasn't yet made a major breakthrough with American consumers. We may now consume more Sake than ever in our history, but it's still such a tiny amount when compared to beer, wine and whiskey. 

How do we make Sake more mainstream?

I've long been deeply involved in research on the presence and perception of Sake in the U.S. since the 1800s, having perused hundreds and hundreds of articles. One statistic that has stuck with me was that for many years, approximately 80% of Sake was consumed in the U.S. at Japanese restaurants. I suspect that figure hasn't changed too much in the present day.

There are plenty of valuable suggestions on how Sake can be made popular, from increased education to making Sake labels more approachable, however most of those will only make incremental progress to the objective of mainstreaming Sake. Slow but steady progress. Is there any suggestion which might have a greater and quicker impact?

For a number of years, I've believed that the greatest impact, the best way to make Sake more mainstream, is by getting more non-Asian restaurants to place Sake on their menus. Currently, Sake is nearly always found only at Asian restaurants, so the average consumer equates it only with Asian cuisine, from sushi to katsu. That misconception prevents Sake from becoming more mainstream, relegating it only to a certain type of cuisine, ensuring it remains more of a niche beverage.

We need non-Asian restaurants to have the courage to place Sake on their drink menus, to show consumers that Sake pairs well with a diverse selection of cuisines and foods. I want to see Sake served with burgers and pizza. I want to see a sommelier at an Italian bistro recommending Sake with a pasta dish. I want to see seafood restaurants recommending Sake with oysters, fried clams or a lobster roll.

Sake can and should be paired with appetizers, entrees and dessert. It works well with a myriad of cuisines from Italian to French, Mexican to Spanish. It's an excellent accompaniment to a diverse selection of foods, from burgers to pizza, seafood to poultry, mushrooms to cheese. Its versatility is without question yet few restaurants, except for Asian spots, take advantage. In some cases, it can even be a better pairing than wine.

I've previously written about how well Sake pairs with food, in articles such as The Science Of Sake & Food Pairings, Pairing Cheese & Sake, Sake, Seafood & Lobster, and Sake For Thanksgiving. I've presided at Sake dinners at local restaurants, pairing it with Italian and French cuisine.

We need Sake to be seen as a commonplace choice wherever you dine. As long as Sake is seen as only an accompaniment for Asian cuisine, then it will never become mainstream, remaining forever a niche beverage.

These changes will involve some work for restaurants. It will require more education about Sake on the behalf of restaurants and sommeliers, who should be excited to learn about this compelling beverage. They need to learn how Sake will pair well with their cuisine. They need to learn how to persuade diners to take a chance on a Sake pairings. None of this is difficult, and mainly involves an investment of time and a willingness to experiment.

Those pioneering restaurants willing to take a chance on Sake would be in a unique position, with a new selling point for consumers, standing out from other restaurants. They could lead a path to a future where Sake becomes more popular and mainstream. So what are you waiting for?

Kanpai!

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) This October, Margaritas Mexican Restaurant is celebrating the tantalizing taco throughout the Northeast. Dubbed “TacOctoberfest,” the monthlong celebration of the fan-favorite Mexican dish will manifest in three forms for the hungry and determined.

National Taco Day – October 7: From 3-5pm, Margaritas will be dishing out free tacos to its “Circle of Friends” reward members. Upon simply showing your “Rewards” screen on the app, take your pick of a free taco – ground beef, chicken, or carnitas – in a hard or soft corn shell, or flour tortilla. Not a “Circle of Friends” member? Signing up takes just a couple minutes by visiting margs.com/rewards but you can also fulfill your taco dreams on the cheap with Margaritas’ “Taco Tuesday” special where all tacos are just $4 all day.
*Free taco reward valid for dine-in only with the purchase of any other food or beverage.

Taco Gigante Challenges – October 1-31: Think you have what it takes to conquer Margaritas’ towering tacos? Channel your inner Joey Chestnut and get ready to dig in because the Taco Gigante Challenge returns and a newcomer enters the gauntlet: the Flaming Gigante Challenge. For the traditional challenge, the strong-willed (and stomached) will be presented with a two-pound taco stuffed with four different meats, cheese, salsa fresca, refritos, lettuce and rice topped with queso, tomatillo and picante sauces. 

Its devilish twin, the Flaming Gigante, is a super-spicy version of the original doused in Fuego sauce and topped with fresh jalapeños and Flamin’ Hot Cheetos®. To the victors go the spoils: a free taco weekly for a year. (Bonus: If you complete the Flaming challenge, you’ll also take home a keepsake t-shirt memorializing the conquest.) 

For those not looking for full “Gigante” glory, the two-pound taco specials will be available to share amongst your taco team. Taco Gigantes are available for $15 each for a limited time. Contest winners’ free weekly taco is redeemable from December 1, 2025-November 30, 2026. Flaming Hot Gigante t-shirts available while supplies last.

Taco & Cerveza Pairing – October 1-31: Keeping it frothy for Octoberfest, Margaritas will feature a taco-cerveza special all month. Pair a Sam Adams Octoberfest with a birria taco plate – three slow-cooked beef birria and cheese tacos with consommé and grilled pineapple, topped with chopped onions and cilantro – and watch the worlds of beer and birria come together in perfect harmony. $19.99 per order.

Available at Margaritas Mexican Restaurant locations in CT, MA, ME, NH, NJ and PA.

Jiang Nan-Chinese Fusion: First Impressions

Jiang Nan, a Chinese fusion restaurant, opened its Boston location, at 177 Tremont Street on the site of the former Teatro, during early 2003. It's located just outside Chinatown, across from the Boston Common. Jiang Nan is part of a chain, the first having opened in Flushing, New York, which currently has 11 locations, and ambitious plans to have over 40 locations in the next few years. 

Their website states: "Jiang Nan inherits the ethnic cooking skills of modern Chinese cuisine, featuring Peking Duck, Xiao Long Bao (soup dumpling), Grill Fish and etc, as the signature dishes. We serve not only indulgent and comforting dining experiences featuring the best of Chinese fusion flavors from each region of China, but also consistently high-quality food and ingredients and superior customer service." They also note that they were "recognized as one of the only Chinese Fusion restaurants on the 2024 Michelin Recommended List,.." 

I recently dined there with a companion for lunch and wanted to present my first impressions. In short, it was a very good experience and I would return there again. 

As you enter the restaurant, there's an elegant bar to the right, where you can enjoy a cocktail and some food. 

The dining room also has a sense of elegance, and can be an impressive location for a romantic date or a business meeting. We sat in a small alcove, which only has two tables, and definitely is one of the prime dining spots in the restaurant. 

Every table receives a complimentary dish of Pickled Cabbage with chili oil, which looked quite fresh. 

You also receive these two complimentary items, which might puzzle you at first, but are simply Disposable Wet Wipes and Disposable Gloves. Not quite what you might have expected at first glance. 

The lengthy Menu is broken down into various categories, including Chef Specialty, Snacks, Appetizers, Featured Soup, House Special, Entrees, Vegetables, Main Dish, and Desserts. However, you might want to also consult the Menu at their Flushing location, as it contains photos of all their dishes, which the Boston menu lacks. There's plenty of options on the menu so whatever your preferences, from vegetarian to meat-lover, you're likely to find something which will appeal to you. Appetizers average around $15-$16 with most Entrees in the $20s. There are also some special dishes which cost in the $30s and $40s.  

Their House Signature dish is Peking Duck, which is available as a Half ($48) or Whole ($88). We opted for a Half, and it came with all of the usual accompaniments plus a couple which are less common. They included very thin chun bing (spring pancakes), narrow strips of cucumber and spring onion, and Hoisin sauce. In addition, there was a bowl of sugar and some pineapple chunks, which are not as commonly found, but both ingredients are said to enhance the flavor of the duck and cut through the fat of the duck. The duck slices were very good, meaty and flavorful, with some nice crispness to the skin. It wasn't the best Peking Duck I've ever tasted, but I was very pleased with what we received. It was also an ample amount of duck, with plenty of pancakes. 

If you order the Peking Duck, you can also order one of two options ($15 extra) of Processed Bones. Yes, that might not sound appetizing at first, but you need to give it some consideration. You can either choose Salt & Pepper Crispy Duck Bones or Tofu & Veggies Duck Bone Soup. We chose the Salt & Pepper Crispy Duck Bones, and I enjoyed gnawing on the salty meat, with a nice crispness, on the bones. Definitely a very good choice as an option. I've long loved duck wings better than chicken wings, and this appealed to my preferences. 

We also chose the Smoked Pork Neck Meat ($25.95), which is smoked table-side, and in the video above, you can see how they fired the wood chips, and then inserted the tray into the bottom of the box, below the level where the pork was laying. They also have a few other items on the menu, such as the Mega Lamb Skewer, which are prepared table-side. 

This was the final product, tender and flavorful pork, with a nice smoky aspect. Some crispness on the exterior, fat which melted in your mouth, and plenty of tasty pork. 

The Mapo Tofu, with minced pork ($17.95), is a classic Szechuan dish and I thought it was excellent, with plenty of silky tofu, a meaty sauce, and a nice, numbing Szechuan spice touch, although it wasn't as spicy as other Mapo Tofu dishes that I've had. So, if you prefer a lesser spicy dish, this would be a good option, providing a touch of Szechuan, but without too strong of heat. 

Our final dish was Crispy Shredded Beef with lime sauce ($26.95), maybe my favorite of the four dishes. I loved the crispiness of the tender beef, with a subtle but complex sauce, the citrus giving a brightness to the beef. Each bite made me crave another. 

Service was excellent. Overall, it was a positive first experience, with plenty of delicious food, and there's plenty more on the menu I would like to try. It's a bit more of a higher-end Chinese restaurant, although the portion size and quality of the dishes generally justifies the higher prices. 

Have you dined at Jiang Nan? If so, what was your experience?