Rant: Restaurant Expectations Failed

Over the weekend, friends invited us to dinner, to celebrate our 30th Anniversary. We dined at a local high-end steak house, a restaurant that none of us had previously dined at. I've read some positive reviews of the restaurant, but was aware of a few complaints as well. I've been to many other high-end steakhouses, so I had big expectations for this restaurant, especially considering its high menu prices. However, would it compete on the same level as these other steakhouses? 

Overall, I wasn't impressed with the restaurant, and it didn't live up to my expectations. Personally, I don't plan on returning there again. There are plenty of much better options if I want to visit a high-end steakhouse. 

First, their customer service started off very well, when our friends were able to change our original reservation, moving it up a week, fitting us in on a Saturday night. That seemed like a good sign, and even raised my expectations ever higher. When we arrived, the restaurant was quite busy but we were able to sit immediately. I liked the look of the restaurant as well.

Second, as the restaurant was packed, it was noisy, making conversation difficult even just across the table. If it's tough to speak to my dining companions, there's a problem. Unfortunately, this seems to be a common issue at too many restaurants. Why should that be so? It doesn't seem that it would benefit a restaurant to be so noisy.

Third, there were a number of issues with the food. In general, they were small issues, but they weren't the type of issues I expect from a high-end restaurant. Their dishes should be close to impeccable, to justify the quality and high prices of the restaurant. For example, one of the salads included an inedible lettuce stem, the part of the lettuce you normally discard. Why would anyone include it on a dish? It didn't add anything of value to the salad.

In addition, my Arancini didn't possess the crispy exterior they should possess. It tasted fine in other respects, but I expected that a high-end restaurant would have ensured the crispiness of the arancini. My lobster tail was a bit overcooked, and thus a little tough. Overall, the dishes were generally tasty, but they didn't reach the quality I expect from a high-end restaurant. 

Fourth, there were service issues, with the main problem being that our table ordered a second bottle of wine but our server never brought it. There were a few other smaller issues as well, and the server didn't appear to be new. However, I also noted that at two nearby tables there were dishes/glasses that were dropped or fell to the floor, and our server was nearby at both incidents. 

In addition, although the restaurant was well aware we were celebrating our 30th wedding anniversary, the restaurant did nothing to commemorate that occasion. They certainly were not obligated to do so, but high-end restaurants commonly do so. It gives people an additional reason to consider such restaurants for special occasions.   

This restaurant isn't new, and has garnered some very positive reviews in the media, but my experience didn't live up to my expectations. With all of the other high-end steakhouses in the area, I have no incentive to return to this restaurant. Could it have been simply a bad day? Maybe, but I'm not going to spend all that money to find out. They had a single opportunity to impress me and failed to do so. 

What are your expectations for a high-end restaurant?  

By the way, I'm not going to identify the name of the restaurant. It's not necessary for the basic point of this rant, and before naming it, I would need to speak to the restaurant, to discuss their response to my complaints.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) On November 1, Margaritas Mexican Restaurant, located at 211 Moody Street, Waltham, is getting the party started early with the debut of their weekend Brunch service. Available weekends from 11:30am-2:00pm, Margaritas will be dishing out classic Mexican breakfast specialties, creations with a signature twist, and brunch-favorite cocktails.

Indulge in plates like Breakfast Tacos with farm eggs, a meat choice (carnitas, bacon, chorizo), crispy potatoes, peppers, scallions, a blend of cheese and cilantro served with sour cream and salsa fresca; Mexican Churro-Style French Toast with cinnamon sugar-dusted French toast doused in dulce de leche sauce, topped with vanilla cream and pineapple salsa; Carnitas Benedict, crispy pork carnitas and poached eggs atop an English muffin with a smoky chipotle hollandaise, served with crispy street corn potatoes; and the vegan Classic Southwest Tofu Scramble with marinated tofu, charred peppers, onions, black beans, tomatoes, jalapeños and cilantro served with grilled flour tortillas.

Get your sip on with a collection of Mexican-inspired cocktail specialties including the Bloody Maria, Michelada, Tequila Sunrise, a Proseccorita Flight, and more. 

Rant: Holiday Wines? Don't Be A Cheapskate

The holiday season is here, and many people will stop by their local wine shop to purchase wines for parties, dinners, or gifts, for Thanksgiving, Christmas, or other holidays. Let me provide you an important piece of advice, which applies to all the wine you'll purchase this holiday season.

Don't be a cheapskate! 

In preparation for the holidays, people stock up on wine to serve their guests at the various parties, feasts, dinners and celebrations. Often, because they are buying bottles in bulk, purchasing multiple bottles, their primary concern is price, not quality. So, they too often buy the large, commercial "value" wines, the brand names which are known to everyone. 

Please don't do it! 

It takes almost no thought to buy such wines. Though such wines might be drinkable, they aren't going to impress anyone. You've chosen to take the cheapest route possible, in both price and time. These wines are generally industrial products, created to taste the same year to year, and you never know what additives might be in these wines. They are like the McDonald's of the wine world. Do you really want to serve such wines to your loved ones, your family and friends?

There's a better way. 

If you're hosting a holiday party, don't you want to impress your guests? Or do you want to be known as the person who bought the cheapest wine available? Don't you want your guests to leave the party talking about the great time they had, telling others about the delicious wines they enjoyed? Or would you rather have them later complain that the wine was unappealing? It only takes a little extra work and price to elevate your wine selections.

I certainly understand the need to control your wine costs when you are providing for a number of guests. You don't have to buy $50 wines to impress your guests and you don't even have to spend $20 per bottle. I've purchased numerous $10-$15 wines, only a few dollars more than you might otherwise spend on those "value" wines, and brought them to parties where the other guests loved them, wanting to know where they could buy them.

There are good and interesting wines at this price point, if you know where to seek them out. If you want your holiday celebration to be even more popular, then you should serve those type of wines. The extra effort will elevate your party and please your family, friends, and other guests.

How do you find these inexpensive but interesting wines? At whatever wine shop you visit, it might be best to ask the wine store staff for recommendations of their best value wines. They should be able to direct you toward those inexpensive wines which will be more interesting and delicious than those cheap commercial wines. For example, at Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet in Melrose, where I work, I can recommend a number of much better value wines, from Vinho Verde to Montepulciano.

Most wine stores also offer a discount for bulk purchases, commonly 5-20%, and sometimes for as little as 3 bottles, which makes your wine cost even less expensive. And these are usually discounts that the wine store doesn't provide for the large-scale, commercial "value" wines. So, with those discounts, your prices for these better value wines can be even closer to that of the large-scale, commercial "value" wines.  

If for some reason you can't ask a store employee for some recommendations, then my best advice for selecting a good wine that is $15 or under, is to buy a Portuguese wine. I think some of the greatest value wines are coming out of Portugal, especially at this price point. Chances are that if you purchase a Portuguese wine costing $15 or less, you'll find a delicious wine, much better than similarly priced wines from most other regions. And there are plenty of Portuguese wines available in that price range. There is probably no other wine region where you can find as many good wines at that price point.

You also should know that paying a few dollars more for your wine can make a big difference. When you start considering wines priced from $15-$20, your options increase drastically. You can find some interesting wines from all over the world in that price range, though they still offer value. And if you are buying in bulk where the wine store offers a discount for larger purchases, you can save enough money so that the wines end up priced closer to $15 or less per bottle.

So this holiday season, don't buy the same old cheap wines. 

It won't take much effort to select some better choices, and still very inexpensively. In the end, you'll impress your guests, make your holiday party more memorable, and drink better wines.

(This is a revised version of a post originally from 2009.  It's an important enough issue to raise it again.) 

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) Located in Belmont’s center, The Wellington, helmed by executive chef & co-owner Dante de Magistris, has officially launched lunch, which is now available Tuesdays through Saturdays from 11:30am - 2:00pm. 

The new Lunch Menu can be found online here, and a sampling of the new lunch menu items include:
Mortadella Sandwich – thinly sliced mortadella with pistachios, ricotta, muffuletta olive mix, arugula pistachio pesto, italian sub roll, served with side of fries or salad ($23)
Caprese Sandwich – heirloom tomatoes, imported buffalo mozzarella, fresh basil, italian sub roll, served with side of fries or salad ($22)
Spinach Artichoke Flatbread – the classic dip baked over crispy flatbread, marinated artichoke hearts ($17)
Fried Chicken Sandwich – house fried chicken thigh, napa slaw, chili glaze, buttermilk ranch, pickles, kaiser bun, served with side of fries or salad ($22)
NY Bodega Chopped Cheese Sub – griddled and chopped beef with vidalia onions, peppers, pickles, well sauce and cheese on an iggy's italian sub roll, choice of fries, or salad ($24)

2) The Tavistock Restaurant Collection restaurants will be open on Thanksgiving Day serving their full dinner menus enhanced with Thanksgiving specials and prix fixe offerings.

Abe & Louie’s: Back Bay steakhouse Abe & Louie’s will be dishing out a collection of Thanksgiving specials in addition to serving their á la carte menu. To start, there’s butternut squash soup ($13) with spiced crème fraîche and candied pumpkin seeds. For a taste of tradition, opt for the Vermont-raised turkey dinner ($52) complete with whipped potatoes, stuffing, roasted Brussels sprouts, cranberry sauce and gravy. For something sweet, dig into the pumpkin cheesecake ($14) topped with vanilla whipped cream and caramel. Reservations from 11am-10pm so please call (617) 536-6300.  

Atlantic Fish Co.: Serving Boston since 1978, Atlantic Fish Co. will feature their full menu of seafood classics in addition to holiday specials. Start with butternut squash soup ($12) with candied pepitas, crème fraiche and crispy sage, or a roasted cauliflower salad ($16) with baby kale, squash and maple vinaigrette. For the best from land and sea, the entrees are roasted turkey ($46) with whipped potatoes, stuffing, green beans, cranberry sauce and gravy, or pan-roasted monkfish ($48) with cauliflower puree, Swiss chard and gremolata. For dessert, a pumpkin cheesecake ($12) with cinnamon whipped cream. Reservations from 11am-10pm so please call (617) 267-4000. 

Coach Grill: In Wayland, the Coach Grill will feature a Thanksgiving prix fixe ($72) in addition to their signature menu. For appetizers, there is butternut squash bisque with spiced crème fraîche, or a shaved Brussels sprouts salad with hazelnut, cranberry and lemon-thyme vinaigrette. For entrees, there’s roasted turkey with whipped potatoes, stuffing, butternut squash, green beans, cranberry sauce and gravy, or local sea scallops with vegetable risotto and Meyer lemon beurre blanc. For dessert, indulge in apple crumb tart with vanilla bean ice cream and salted caramel, or a pumpkin cheesecake with vanilla whipped cream. Coach Grill also offers a takeout Thanksgiving Family Feast (serves 4-6; $285) available for pickup in addition to á la carte sides by the tray – corn pudding ($45), traditional stuffing ($40), whipped potatoes ($40), green beans ($45), butternut squash ($50) – as well as quarts of gravy ($20) and cranberry sauce ($25). Reservations from 11am-8pm. Takeout orders can be placed through November 25 at 6pm for pickup on November 26-27 between 12-7pm. Please call (508) 358-5900. 

3) A couple other Thanksgiving dinner choices include:

Contessa Boston: Situated on the rooftop of The Newbury Boston, Contessa Boston, overlooks the city skyline, bringing the flavors of Northern Italy to Boston, and Thanksgiving is no exception. For Thanksgiving, guests can enjoy family-style dining ($195 per person) For the primi course, choose from Contessa's Meatballs Aldo, served with whole grain mustard sauce,or the famous Squash Carpaccio, featuring arugula, pumpkin seeds, and agrodolce. For the pasta course, enjoy Ricotta Gnudi di Pecora, served with black truffles. For the secondi course, there are several options including Roasted Turkey served with sage turkey gravy and select sides such as Turkey Stuffing, Cranberry Mostarda, and Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Pancetta. Those seeking an alternative to turkey, can order the Porterhouse for a $185 supplement. To end on a sweet note, choose from Pumpkin Gelato or Apple Pie. Please note that a 20% gratuity will be added to additional food and beverage. Reservations from 12:00pm to 8pm Thanksgiving Day. Please call (617) 741-3404. 

Matria Boston: The Northern Italian-inspired steakhouse at InterContinental Boston, Matria Boston, is celebrating Thanksgiving with several options for dining-in and to-go. In addition to Matria's full menu, guests can enjoy a special Traditional Roasted Turkey Dinner ($42) featuring roasted turkey with giblet pan gravy, chestnut focaccia stuffing, parsnip Yukon au gratin potatoes blended with Blue Hill cheese and pancetta, along with cranberry compote, and roasted fall vegetables including kabocha, corn, and brussels sprouts. To end dinner on a sweet note, there is the Chef's Dessert Table ($30 per person; $15 children ages 3-12) which includes coffee, tea, hot chocolate, or cider, along with nearly a dozen desserts and sweet treats like tiramisu, panna cotta, salted caramel cannoli, apple cider créme brûlée, sweet potato cheesecake lollipops, house-made pies, and gelato. *NEW* Those who crave leftovers are in luck, Matria will provide a small, packaged to-go box complete with sides and more to enjoy post-Turkey Day or as a Black Friday treat. Reservations are available for Thanksgiving dinner on Thursday, November 28, from 12:00 p.m. - 6:00 p.m. Please call (617) 217 5151. 

Rant: Don't Stress Over Choosing Your Thanksgiving Wines!

Every year countless people stress over which wines to pair with their Thanksgiving dinner. These people also worry that their holiday might be a failure unless they have the correct wines. The media contributes to this worry, with countless articles about the "proper" wines to have on Thanksgiving. The holidays can be stressful enough without having to worry about the wine, especially when those worries are generally needless.

Cast your memory back to last year's Thanksgiving. Can you remember which specific wines you had with dinner? Can you remember the specific wines you had with Thanksgiving dinner two years ago?

I'm sure that nearly everyone won't be able to remember except maybe in the most general terms. Maybe they recall having had a Pinot Noir or a Riesling. They are unlikely to recall the specific producer or much else about the wine. What they are more likely to remember is the good (at least hopefully it was good) time they had, the family and friends that shared their table. They might remember that the food and wine was good or bad but the specifics may be foggy.

Do you really need to worry about specific Thanksgiving wine recommendations? I don't think so. The more I ponder the question, the more I realize that all you need for Thanksgiving are some good wines, the varietals and/or blends being much less important. As long as they do not blatantly clash with the meal, then they should work just fine. And few wines are going to so blatantly clash. Drink wines you'll enjoy and don't worry so much about "perfect pairings."

A Thanksgiving meal is diverse, with many different flavors, from savory to sweet, and many different textures. No single wine is a perfect pairing with all these different dishes. So you need wines that people will enjoy in of their own right. I don't think many hosts are seeking the "perfect" wine pairing. They simply want something that people will enjoy and which won't greatly detract from the food.

Plus, who will remember the wines next year?

We must also remember that any wine shared with good friends and family is likely to taste better, or at least seem that way, than one drank alone. The circumstances of the day, the good feelings, the fond memories, the thanks for the past year, will all lead to your wine seeming better. And it's all those surrounding circumstances that people will most remember about Thanksgiving. The wine will always take the back seat.

The wine is simply an extra, not a necessity. It pales in importance to everything else about the holiday. Like the Whos from "The Grinch Who Stole Xmas," there should still be joy even if all of the food and wine have been taken away.

I will bring a variety of wines to my Thanksgiving feast, a mix of sparkling wine, white, red and dessert wines. In general, I'll pick interesting and delicious wines that I feel people will enjoy. I won't spend much time worrying about pairing them with specific dishes and foods, although I will consider which wines might clash too much with the various dishes. I want wines that will make people smile, that will enhance the spirit of the day.

If you want some assistance with selecting wines to make your guests smile, then come see me at the Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet shop in Melrose. I can show you plenty of delicious and interesting wines which would work well for your Thanksgiving table. I can show you different wines rather than the traditional pairings. Everyone else might bring the standard wines, so why not stand out by bringing a more unique wine?

Consider wines, both whites and reds from Croatia, Greece, Uruguay, Peru, Lebanon, Hungary, or Georgia. The shop has wines from around 25 different countries. Consider Unoaked Chardonnay from Australia, Pinot Noir from New Zealand, or Bonarda from Argentina. Pick up some Bubbly, from Cava to Cremant, Grower Champagne to Mexican Sparkling Wine. If you want something domestic, consider a White Pinot Noir from Oregon or Gewurtztraminer from California. Try an Orange Wine, a skin-contact white wine, which goes well with roast turkey. You should also consider Sake for your Thanksgiving table, which is actually a very food friendly beverage, and we have a diverse selection from Sparkling Sake to Junmai Daiginjo. If you want more Natural Wines, the store stocks over 300 such wines. For after-dinner consumption, consider Port (Ruby to White) or Sherry.       

Please also check out our weekly Wine Tastings, held on Thursday nights from 5-7pm and Saturday afternoons from 1-4pm. During the upcoming tastings, we will be showcasing numerous wines which will be fitting for Thanksgiving. Come see me and taste something different.

Whatever you do for Thanksgiving, enjoy yourself and appreciate all that you have, rather than worry about what you do not.

(This is an expanded/revised version of a post originally from 2009. My basic sentiment has not changed one iota since that time and I felt it was important enough to raise it once again.)