Kimoto was the original method of production, basically where large oar-like poles, referred to as yamaoroshi, were used to stir the moto, the yeast starter. Natural lactic acid in the air would hopefully then help the fermentation process. For hundreds of years, this process was conducted in Sake breweries all across Japan. It wasn't until the beginning of the 20th century, did someone realize that this laborious process was completely unnecessary.
In 1909, Professor Kinichiro Kagi, at the National Institute for Brewing Studies, realized that the use of the oar-like poles to mix the moto wasn’t necessary. The moto could be left on its own to complete the process, although a couple adjustments were required, including adding some more water and raising the temperature a bit. This was known as Yamahai, which is short hand for "yamaoroshi haishi moto," which roughly translates as "creating the moto without the use of oar-like poles."
Soon after the introduction of the Yamahai style, brewers realized they could simply add lactic acid to the yeast starter, which made the brewing process much shorter, as well as less risky. It is now the most dominant method of Sake production, although some breweries still make Sake using the Kimoto and Yamahai processes.
The Izumibashi Kurotonbo "Black Dragonfly" Kimoto Junmai, with a 16% ABV, is produced by the Izumibashi Shuzo, which was established in the Kanagawa Prefecture in 1857. The name Izumibashi basically means "Izumi Bridge," referring to the Izumi River (which is used to irrigate their rice), and Hashi, their family name.
Izumibashi is a registered “Cultivation Brewery,” which means it grows, harvests and mills its own rice. This is a rarity as most Sake breweries purchase their Sake rice. Izumibashi promotes the belief that "Sake Starts with Rice." They also use "environmentally-friendly reduced-pesticide cultivation processes." They produce Junmai Sake, and half of their production is also in the Kimoto style.
The "Black Dragonfly" Sake is made from Yamada Nishiki rice, the "king" of Sake rice, which has been polished down to 65%. Different sources indicate that its Acidity may range from 1.5-1.9, and that is SMV may be +10 or +12 (tending to mean it is likely very dry). This Sake was also aged for two years before its release. I found this to be a compelling, complex and absolutely delicious Sake. There was a dominant umami presence, along with intriguing and silky flavors of chestnuts, melon, and an almost chocolate accent. There were also hints of other, almost elusive flavors, that tantalized and pleased the palate. It possessed a fuller, creamier body (yet with balanced acidity) and a lengthy finish. Superb!
This Sake would pair well with a wide variety of foods, including beef and other proteins, as well as fried foods. A mushroom pizza, or burger with mushrooms atop it, would also go along very well with this Sake. An Italian dish, with a red sauce and parmigiana cheese, would be a pleasant pairing too. Highly recommended!
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