Rant: Don't Be A Selfish, Greedy Glutton

With the holiday season upon us, food and drink blogs are ramping up their holiday coverage. You'll soon read epic tales of sumptuous feasts, accompanied by expensive and rare bottles of wine. You'll find plenty of holiday recipes, describing how to prepare some of the most decadent dishes. You'll be regaled with tales of pricey gifts received, from costly electronics to tropical vacations. Colorful photos will display all of these hedonistic pleasures in their luxuriant glory.

However, I want to see something else, something more meaningful. Are you up to the challenge?

I don't want to be regaled by selfish, greedy gluttons. Instead, I want to hear about charitable efforts to help those less fortunate. This should be a time of generosity and charity, of giving to others rather than feeding our own gluttony. Though many love the holiday season, it can be a very sad time for those with little or nothing. Every community has some people who find it difficult merely to pay for basic essentials. Share your largess with others, helping those who truly need it.

Even for those of us who are having tough economic times, we all probably can help out others, even if only in little ways. If you cannot spare money, then donate your time or make something to give to others, maybe bake a pie, cookies or casserole. Donate old clothes or other durable items which you no longer use. There are many different ways to help out others besides just monetary donations. All it takes is a little creativity and thought.

During this season, there are numerous restaurants, chefs, stores and others which are holding special charitable events. Promote those events on your blogs, spreading the word far and wide. Attend those events, encouraging others to do the same. Give to your favorite charities, whatever they might be. Just don't revel in selfish, greedy gluttony, ignoring the plight of others.

This applies to our readers as well and I encourage all of you to be charitable as well, in whatever way that you can. Be creative in your efforts, even if your own finances are tight. That would be the best gift I could receive from my readers, the knowledge that you have all helped out those less fortunate.

Let us share with all during this joyous holiday season.

Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet: Happy 3 Month Anniversary

Today's the 3 Month Anniversary of the new Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet in Melrose, which replaced the former Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet. I worked at Beacon Hill for about 12 years, and have continued to work at the new Victoria Hill. So, let me share some of my thoughts and insights about the first three months of the new shop. 

First, the new owners, Vijay, Andy, Brian and Puja, are very sincere and hardworking, and intend the shop to be an artisan wine, beer and spirits shop. They are not seeking to turn it into a package store or convenience store. It's intended to be a destination shop, and not merely a neighborhood shop, so that people from all of the surrounding communities will want to shop there too. And the changes they have already initiated have largely moved towards the achievement of that objective. 

Second, the shop is obviously still a work in progress, and more changes will be coming over the next months. During the past three months, there has been much positive progress moving forward, and the new owners have various plans for the future, all continuing to move towards their primary objective. Many customers have been complimentary about the various changes. 

Third, the new owners have been expanding the available selections, both alcohol and gourmet food, on a variety of levels. There are numerous new beer selections, from local brews to beers from places like China and the Philippines. The whiskey selection has expanded, including some harder to find selections, from Blanton's Bourbon to Buffalo Trace. And there have been some additional intriguing new spirits, from Chartreuse to Japanese Vermouth.

Of particular interest to me, the wine selection has become larger and more diverse. The shop now carries over 500 different wines and Sake, from 19 countries, including: Argentina, Australia, Austria, Chile, Croatia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Italy, Japan, Lebanon, Luxembourg, New Zealand, Portugal, South Africa, Spain, Switzerland, and the United States (California, New York, Oregon and Washington). And more wines are coming, including some from other countries, maybe including places like Armenia, Great Britain, Mexico, Moldova, Turkey and Uruguay. Numerous more natural wines are also on the shelves. 

Fourth, I now conduct Wine Tastings every Thursday evening, from 5-7pm, and every Saturday, from 1-4pm. I try to showcase all of the different wines we now carry, to expose people to the diversity of wine. Customers seem to be very appreciative of this approach, and open to trying more unique wines. We have plenty of repeat customers who regularly come to the tastings to experience new wines. The shop also conducts Beer Tastings on Friday nights. Please come by at any of these times to expand your palate and taste some delicious and fascinating new wines and beers.  

Fifth, some of the physical changes to the store include new lighting, to make the store brighter, and a new chiller case, which holds wines, single beers, and hard seltzers. Additional wine shelves have been added, with more to come, allowing the shop to stock even more of a diversity of wine selections.  

Much positive progress has been made, and it will continue in the future. If you live in Melrose, check out Victoria Hill and see what your new neighborhood wine, beer & spirits shop has to offer. If you live outside Melrose, please also check out Victoria Hill as you are likely to find a number of selections that aren't available at your own neighborhood wine shop. Victoria Hill is intended to be a destination spot, where people from all of the surrounding communities will want to come because of its unique and diverse selection.

Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet
538 Main Street, Melrose
(781) 665-3332
Monday to Wednesday: 10am-8pm, Thursday to Saturday: 10am-9pm; Sunday: 10am-7pm. 

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) Some Thanksgiving dinner choices, so you don't have to cook. 

Abe & Louie’s: This Back Bay steakhouse will be dishing out a customizable three-course prix fixe menu ($78) this Thanksgiving in addition to serving their a la carte menu. To start, there is a butternut squash soup with crème fraiche and candied pumpkin seeds, or a roasted beet and goat cheese salad with pistachio, dill and aged balsamic. For entrees, there’s roasted turkey breast with braised dark meat, whipped potatoes, stuffing, roasted Brussels sprouts, cranberry sauce and gravy, or an eight-ounce filet mignon served with a twice-baked potato, horseradish cream and bordelaise. For something sweet, dig into the pumpkin cheesecake topped with vanilla whipped cream. 

Reservations from 11:30am-10pm. Call them at (617) 536-6300. 

Atlantic Fish Co.: They will feature their full menu of seafood classics in addition to a three-course holiday prix fixe ($70). Start with parsnip soup with crème fraiche and candied pumpkin seeds, or a harvest salad with butternut squash, baby greens, pecan, goat cheese and maple vinaigrette. For the best from land and sea, the entrees are roasted turkey breast with braised dark meat, whipped potatoes, stuffing, roasted Brussels sprouts, cranberry sauce and gravy, or hazelnut-crusted Atlantic halibut with butternut squash puree, haricots verts and brown butter sage. For dessert, a pumpkin cheesecake with vanilla whipped cream. 

Reservations from 11am-9pm. Call them at (617) 267-4000. 

Coach Grill: They will feature a Thanksgiving prix fixe ($70) in addition to their nightly menu. For appetizers, there is a split pea soup with smoked ham hocks and crème fraiche, or a quinoa and Tuscan kale salad with red endive, golden raisins, toasted almonds and Meyer lemon vinaigrette. For entrees, there’s roasted turkey breast with whipped potatoes, stuffing, butternut squash, green beans, cranberry sauce and gravy, or an eight-ounce filet mignon served with a twice-baked potato, horseradish cream and bordelaise. For dessert, indulge in pumpkin cheesecake with vanilla whipped cream. 

Coach Grill also offers a takeout Thanksgiving Family Feast (serves 4-6; $285) available for pickup on November 27 and 28. 

Reservations from 11am-8pm. Please call (508) 358-5900. 

 2) The InterContinental Boston has officially debuted a "secret hideaway for rebellious spirits" as Loyall Counting Room is now open and located in the hotel’s first floor, next to Bar Fellini. The intimate speakeasy can accommodate up to 25 guests and "offers a secretive flare that encompasses a nod to Boston’s rich history of intrigue and revolution. The discreet atmosphere brings history to life in a unique location, featuring drinks paying homage to that time period." 

Jenna Carlson-Carvalho, Director of Restaurants and Bars at InterContinental Boston, stated, "We take the art of crafting cocktails to the next level, focusing not only on carefully curated ingredients but also on the overall presentation—from period glassware to the garnishes. We pride ourselves on the smallest details to give an authentic spin to historic drinks.”

"The concept pays tribute to Boston’s Loyal Nine - especially free-thinkers like John Avery, Thomas Chase, Henry Bass and Captain Joseph Field, all who understood the value of a good, strong drink. These revolutionaries preceded the Sons of Liberty, who planned and executed events like the Boston Tea Party, which occurred on the very site of InterContinental Boston at Fort Point Channel. This space is inspired by that era, with a secret entrance and modern-day tribute to the hidden counting rooms and water holes of the time. Enter by secret password and experience a clandestine meeting among the rebellious. The color palette is dark and wood-clad at a candlelight brightness. Contemporary colonial references are seen throughout in the cabinet of curiosity entrance, patterned wallcovering in the main room, coin-inspired feature light fixtures and artwork."  

The cocktail menu features unique elixirs, each with a story to tell and accompanied by a tale of the drink’s name, origin and background like the: 

• Incident on King Street, the infamous event that came to be known as the Boston Massacre made with Broadbent Madeira, Plantation Rum, Ron Zacapa 23 Solera, Licor 43, Grand Marnier, lemon and raspberry; 
• Under the Liberty Tree, showcasing the powerful symbol of colonial resistance, featuring Fino sherry, coconut-washed cognac liqueur, and spiced pear liqueur; 
• The Gentlewoman’s Rebellion, highlighting Phyllis Wheatley, a young formerly enslaved poet who defied expectations by becoming one of the most celebrated literary figures of the colonies, created with Grey Goose White Peach, Rosemary, pisco, cantaloupe syrup, clarified grapefruit and soda.

Guests can also enjoy small bites of "colonial fare" like Meat Pie, puff pastry, ground beef, vegetables, creamy potato, horseradish creme, and pickled red onion; Maple Bacon Caramel Corn, popcorn, maple caramelized bacon; and Roasted Chestnuts, salted and smoked.

3) Marcelino’s, Levantine Cocktails & Cuisine, a new locally owned and operated cocktail bar and lounge is scheduled to open in Seaport this later this fall, taking over the space where The Daily Catch resided. It's cofounded by Marcelino and Basel Badawi, and will specialize in crafted cocktails—both alcoholic and non-alcoholic—and offer creative mezze-style small plates, plus dinner and dessert menus. The new Marcelino’s follows in the footsteps of the award-winning Marcelino’s Boutique Bar in Providence, Rhode Island. 

The goal of Marcelino’s, Levantine Cocktails & Cuisine is to reset the bar for cocktails in the city of Boston–thanks to acclaimed Levantine/Mediterranean Chef Maroun Nohra and bar director/mixologist Refaat Ghostine. Marcelino's is locally owned and operated by Marcelino and Basel (who lives downtown), owners of the hugely successful and highly award-winning Marcelino's Boutique Bar in Providence.
 
"Refaat Ghostine has over a decade of A-list award-winning experience in the restaurant and hospitality space, spanning across the United States, Lebanon and the United Arab Emirates. Refaat was part of the team that helped Central Station Boutique Bar in Beirut, Lebanon earn a spot on the prestigious World’s Best Bars List, ranking as high as no. 22 in 2016 and no. 27 as the Best Bar in Africa & Middle East in 2018. Refaat was also honored with the title of Diageo Lebanon World Class Bartender of the Year in 2015. He has been with Marcelino's since 2020." 

One of their new cocktails will be Marcelino’s Oregano Tomato Cocktail, which is composed of gin, white vermouth, fresh oregano essence, clarified tomato cordial, verjus, and salted white balsamic vinegar. "This cocktail captures the vibrant flavors and fresh ingredients of Lebanon. It is the Levant in a glass. The star of the show being the oregano essence, which evokes the fragrant herbs that flourish in the region, offering a herbal depth that invites exploration. The clarified tomato cordial adds a unique umami richness, reminiscent of the sun-ripened tomatoes that are staples in Lebanese cuisine, while verjus introduces a refreshing acidity that brightens the palate. To elevate the experience, a few dashes of salted white balsamic vinegar tie the flavors together, echoing the way traditional Middle Eastern cuisines often combine sweet, sour, and savory notes. The cocktail is garnished with a cracker topped with sun-dried tomato oil gel, sumac, and black salt—a nod to the vibrant mezze culture of Lebanon. Enjoying the cracker first enhances the tasting experience, allowing the rich flavors to meld with the cocktail, creating a sensory journey that embodies the essence of Lebanese hospitality and the joy of sharing good food and drink." 

The inaugural food menu features Eastern Mediterranean-inspired mezze small plates including olive sourdough, za’atar pita toast, bone marrow & tartare, and za’atar bread fattoush salad. Main courses include decadent grilled lamb chops with Turkish ezme, yoghurt and cumin salt; tahini chicken schnitzel and a house baladi salad, and an 8 ounce Levantine steak, spicy chermoula and rosemary potato matchsticks, among others. Also on the menu are cumin lamb, celeriac, saffron baby squid and arak chicken kebab skewers.

4) On Monday, November 25, at 6pm, Il Ponte in Woburn, one of my top favorite Italian restaurants, will be hosting a special Super Tuscan Wine Dinner. Chef Beni Kurti has created five courses of goodf while wine expert Ciro Pirone will lead the tasting of five Italian wines. This should be a delicious and exciting dinner, and there will even be live music.

The Menu Includes:
Sformato di Zucca (Pumpkin flan with Gorgonzola & Walnuts)
2021 Arrighi "Valerius" Toscana Bianco
Agnello Fritto (Breaded & fried lamb chop with artichokes)
2020 Innocenti Lume IGT
Garganelli al Ragu Toscana (Garganelli fresh pasta with traditional Tuscan meat sauce)
2007 Il Moro di San Giovanni (magnum)
Brasato di Manzo (Braised short ribs, horseradish mashed potatoes, carrots & cippolini)
2019 Tenuta di Trinora Magnacosta IGT
Torta di Mandorle e Semolina (Almond & semolina cake)
2017 Grevepesa Vin Santo del Chianti Classico

The cost is $125 per person and you can make Reservations HERE. I'm sure this will sell out, so make your reservation as soon as possible.

Rant: Holiday Wines? Don't Be A Cheapskate

The holiday season is here, and many people will stop by their local wine shop to purchase wines for parties, dinners, or gifts. Let me provide you an important piece of advice, which applies to all the wine you'll purchase this holiday season.

Don't be a cheapskate! 

In preparation for the holidays, people stock up on wine to serve their guests at the various parties and celebrations. Often, because they are buying bottles in bulk, multiple bottles, their primary concern is price. So, they too often buy the large, commercial "value" wines, the brand names which are known to everyone. 

Please don't do it! 

It takes almost no thought to buy such wines. Though such wines might be drinkable, they aren't going to impress anyone. You've chosen to take the cheapest route possible, in both price and time. These wines are generally industrial products, created to taste the same year to year, and you never know what additives might be in these wines. They are like the McDonald's of the wine world. Do you really want to serve such wines to your loved ones, your family and friends?  

There is a better way. 

If you're hosting a holiday party, don't you want to impress your guests? Or do you want to be known as the person who bought the cheapest wine available? Don't you want your guests to leave the party talking about the great time they had, telling others about the delicious wines they enjoyed? Or would you rather have them later complain that the wine was unappealing? It only takes a little extra work and price to elevate your wine selections. 

I certainly understand the need to control your wine costs when you are providing for a number of guests. You don't have to buy $50 wines to impress your guests and you don't even have to spend $20 per bottle. I've purchased numerous $10-$15 wines, only a few dollars more than you might otherwise spend on those "value" wines, and brought them to parties where the other guests loved them, wanting to know where they could buy them. 

There are good and interesting wines at this price point, if you know where to seek them out. If you want your holiday celebration to be even more popular, then you should serve those type of wines. The extra effort will elevate your party and please your family, friends, and other guests.

How do you find these inexpensive but interesting wines? At whatever wine shop you visit, it might be best to ask the wine store staff for recommendations of their best value wines. They should be able to direct you toward those inexpensive wines which will be more interesting and delicious than those cheap commercial wines. At Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet in Melrose, where I work, I can recommend a number of much better value wines. For example, we have recently carried a $9 Vinho Verde and an $11 Montepulciano which were excellent wines for that price.   

Most wine stores also offer a discount for bulk purchases, commonly 5-20%, and sometimes for as little as 3 bottles, which makes your wine cost even less expensive. And these are usually discounts that the wine store doesn't provide for the large-scale, commercial "value" wines. 

If for some reason you can't ask a store employee for some recommendations, then my best advice for selecting a good wine that is $15 or under, is to buy a Portuguese wine. I think some of the greatest value wines are coming out of Portugal, especially at this price point. Chances are that if you purchase a Portuguese wine costing $15 or less, you'll find a delicious wine, much better than similarly priced wines from most other regions. And there are plenty of Portuguese wines available in that price range. There is probably no other wine region where you can find as many good wines at that price point.

You also should know that paying a few dollars more for your wine can make a big difference. When you start considering wines priced from $15-$20, your options increase drastically. You can find some interesting wines from all over the world in that price range, though they still offer value. And if you are buying in bulk where the wine store offers a discount for larger purchases, you can save enough money so that the wines end up priced closer to $15 or less per bottle.

So this holiday season, don't buy the same old cheap wines. It won't take much effort to select some better choices, and still very inexpensively. In the end, you'll impress your guests, make your holiday party more memorable, and drink better wines.

(This is a revised version of a post originally from 2009.  It's an important enough issue to raise it again.) 

Rant: Don't Stress Over Thanksgiving Wines. Choose Wines That Make People Smile

Every year countless people stress over which wines to pair with their Thanksgiving dinner. Some of these people may even worry that their holiday might be a failure unless they have the correct wines. The holidays can be stressful enough without having to worry about the wine, especially when those worries are generally needless.

Cast your memory back to last year's Thanksgiving. Can you even remember which specific wines you had with dinner? Can you remember the specific wines you had with Thanksgiving dinner two years ago?

I'm sure that most people won't be able to remember except maybe in the most general terms. Maybe they recall having had a Pinot Noir or a Riesling. They are unlikely to recall the specific producer or much else about the wine. What they are more likely to remember is the good (at least hopefully it was good) time they had, the family and friends that shared their table. They might remember that the food and wine was good or bad but the specifics may be foggy.

Do you really need specific Thanksgiving wine recommendations? I don't think so. The more I ponder the question, the more I realize that all you need for Thanksgiving are some good wines, the varietals and/or blends being much less important. As long as they don't blatantly clash with the meal, then they should work just fine. And few wines are going to so blatantly clash. Drink wines you'll enjoy and don't worry so much about "perfect pairings."

A Thanksgiving meal is diverse, with many different flavors, from savory to sweet, and many different textures. No single wine is a perfect pairing with all of these different dishes. So you need wines that people will enjoy in of their own right. I don't think too many hosts are seeking the perfect wine pairing. They simply want something that people will enjoy and which won't greatly detract from the food.

Plus, who will remember the wines next year?

We must also remember that any wine shared with good friends and family is likely to taste better, or at least seem that way, than one drank alone. The circumstances of the day, the good feelings, the fond memories, the thanks for the past year, will all lead to your wine seeming better. And it's all those surrounding circumstances that people will most remember about Thanksgiving. The wine will always take the back seat.

The wine is simply an extra, not a necessity. It pales in importance to everything else about the holiday. Like the Whos from "The Grinch Who Stole Xmas," there should still be joy even if all of the food and wine have been taken away.

I will probably bring a variety of wines to my Thanksgiving feast, a mix of sparkling wine, white, red and dessert wines. In general, I'll pick interesting and delicious wines that I feel people will enjoy. I won't spend much time worrying about pairing them with specific dishes and foods. I just want wines that will make people smile, that will enhance the spirit of the day.

If you want some assistance with selecting wines to make your guests smile, then come see me at the new Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet shop in Melrose. I can show you plenty of delicious and interesting wines which would work well for your Thanksgiving table. I can show you different wines rather than the traditional pairings. Everyone else might bring the standard wines, so why not stand out by bringing a more unique wine? 

Consider wines, both whites and reds from Croatia, Greece, Lebanon, or Georgia. Consider Unoaked Chardonnay from Australia, Pinot Noir from New Zealand, or Bonarda from Argentina. If you want something domestic, consider Picpoul or Gewurtztramier from California. For after-dinner, consider Port (Ruby to White), Sherry or Marsala.    

And all this month, we'll be holding Wine Tastings on Thursday nights, from 5-7pm, and Saturday afternoons, from 1-4pm, showcasing wines for Thanksgiving. Come see me and taste something different. 

Whatever you do for Thanksgiving, enjoy yourself and appreciate all that you have, rather than worry about what you do not.

(This is a revised version of a post originally from 2009. My basic sentiment hasn't changed since that time and it's important enough to raise it again.)