Monday, March 24, 2025

Fiorella's in Burlington: A Tasty, Italian Lunch Option

Last September, a new location of Fiorella's Cucina opened at the Burlington Mall. There are two other locations of the Cucina (Full Service), in Concord and Newton, and three locations of their Trattoria (Fine-Fast), in Belmont, Lexington and Wellesley. Fiorella's website states they serve "homemade, Italian-inspired cuisine. Prepared with fresh, locally sourced ingredients,.."

In 1986, Marcel Karian opened Café Fiorella in Belmont, which became well known for its pizza. Marcel's son, Rémon, when he was still a teenager, assisted his father in the business, learning how to prepare pizza. Then, in 2000, Rémon opened the first Fiorella's Cucina in Newton, and eventually he expanded his operations to three Cucinas. And in 2009, Rémon jarred, for retail sales, ‘Fiorella’s Signature Marinara Sauce.’ 

Fiorella means "little flower," and the Roman goddess of the spring, Flora, is their "muse and namesake." As their website states, "Flora inspires Fiorella’s springtime brand, and is a celebration of 'La Dolce Vita.' She brings with her the promise of hope, love, light, flowers, celebration; and making life more delicious!"

I've had lunch at Fiorella's Cucina in Burlington three times, and enjoyed the experience. The Lunch menu consists of Antipasti (7 options, $13-$16), Flatbreads (4 options, $17), Sandwiches & Wraps (7 options, $17-$19), Insalata e Zuppa (6 options, $12-$18), Lunch Entrees (11 options, $19-$25), and Sides (3 options, $10-$11). They also sell Pizza, but you have to ask to see the pizza menu as they don't deliver it with the Lunch menu. On my third trip there, they actually said they only had one pizza menu, so we had to wait for it until another diner was done looking it over. I'm strange that they only had a single menu. The Pizza is wood-fired, thin Neapolitan-style, and available as a Small (starting at $9) or Large (starting at $16).

Before your food begins to arrive, you receive a basket of complimentary, warm Bread Strips, with melted cheese, and accompanied by marinara sauce. These are made with the dough they use for their pizza and it's a nice initial treat. 
 
As for Appetizers, the Toasted Ravioli ($13) have a nicely crisp texture, and plenty of creamy ricotta cheese within. I like their marinara sauce, which is tasty, well balanced and not overly sweet or acidic. 

The Fig & Bacon Flatbread ($17) is made with sweet fig jam, crispy bacon, crumbled goat cheese, and baby arugula, topped by a balsamic glaze. A fine blend of delicious flavors atop a crisp dough, with salty and sweet tastes, nicely balanced. And it's large enough for two people to share. 

The large Three Cheese Pizza ($18) is made with mozzarella, provolone, and pecorino romano cheeses. It's a thin crust pizza with a good taste, plenty of cheese, and a chewy, slightly charred crust. 

The large Carne Trio ($24) is made with lots of pepperoni, imported prosciutto, and sweet Italian sausage. Another very good pizza, and perfect for any meat-lover. 


The Chicken Parmigiana Sandwich ($17) comes with French fries or mixed greens. The chicken was tender, there was plenty of melted cheese, and the bread was fresh and soft, with some crisp bits. The fries were good too, nicely crisp on the outside, and fluffy inside.  

The Meatball Parmigiana Sandwich ($17) was tasty, and the meatballs were firm and meaty, and not overwhelmed by fillers. I can be picky about meatballs but these were pleasing. 

For an Entree, I also tried the Chicken Gnocchi Fra Diavolo ($24), which consists of chicken pieces, slow-simmered, in a spicy fra diavolo sauce, tossed with potato gnocchi & topped with Pecorino Romano. The chicken pieces were tender, the sauce was mildly spicy, and the gnochhi were pillowy and light. A good-sized dish, it was filling and delicious.

Overall, Fiorella's is a good option for lunch, with tasty pizza, sandwiches, and more. Service is excellent and the prices are reasonable. 

Thursday, March 20, 2025

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
******************************************************
1) Scores – formerly The Four’s Restaurant & Sports Bar – is gearing up for March Madness with free Smashburgers as well as a collection of food and drink specials available for $5-and-under. Starting on Selection Sunday and lasting through the NCAA championship game, Scores will be dishing out three weeks of specials: a $1 basket of Old Bay chips; a half-dozen wings for $2 in a choice of BBQ, mango habanero or buffalo sauces; $3 Yuengling beers; $4 Narragansett cans; and $5 green tea shots. Scores also will open early at 11am during weekends throughout the tournament.

As the first and second rounds get underway from March 21-23, score big because the first 100 guests through the doors each day will chow down on a free smashburger served with chips. 

Headquarters for any basketball fanatic, Scores’ bilevel 6,300-square-foot space features 50 speakers and 33 big screen TVs as large as 98 inches. No matter where you are in Scores, you’ll be surrounded by an unrivaled memorabilia and jersey collection, including the famous villain wall, heroes from the Bruins, Celtics, Sox, Patriots, and more.

Food & drink specials: Available from March 16-April 7.
Free smashburgers: Available from March 21-23, to the first 100 guests of the day.
Scores will open early at 11am on tournament weekends.

2) On March 26, there will be a collaboration between ZURiTO (a Basque Pinto Bar & Restaurant) and Sushi @ Temple Records offering a unique Omakase dinner, bringing together the Basque flavors of  Chef Jamie Bissonnette, and the Edomae-style sushi of Executive Chef Kenta Katagai.  

The Omakase is available during two seatings at 6 PM and 8:30 PM, and guests will be able to enjoy bites highlighting Basque flavors and Japanese techniques across an eight-course menu, such as:
Tako “a la Gallega” featuring Spanish octopus, Manzanilla olive and yuzu kosho
Oyster Escabeche “Retro” with a sake-pickled oyster, hojicha, yuzu, and grains of paradise
Paella Don made with black rice, topped with uni and Hotaru Ika
Boquerone Nigiri made with white anchovy, wasabi and soy
Carabineiro Miso Sashimi
Zuke Chu-toro Sashimi with anchovy and conserva
And more!

Reservations can be made on Resy

Tuesday, March 18, 2025

All About Agave Spirits: From Mezcal to Tequila, and Beyond

Mezcal is one of the world’s great spirits: complex, gorgeous and endlessly intriguing, distinguished like great wines by a strong sense of place.” 
--The New York Times (August 16, 2010), “Mezcal, Tequila’s Smoky, Spicy Cousin” by Eric Asimov

At its simplest, mezcal is any distilled spirit made from the agave plant, which is more commonly called maguey in Mexico. Thus, mezcal is an expansive term, encompassing a variety of agave distillates, including tequila. The term mezcal likely derives from the indigenous language Nahuatl, a combination of the words metl (which means “agave”) and ixcalli (which means “cooked”). 

Mezcal, tequila and other agave spirits have a rich and vibrant history. Tequila may get the most publicity in the U.S., but the other agave spirits are worthy of attention as well. I felt it would be very helpful to my readers to compile the links to my Agave Spirit-related posts in a single place. This post will be that repository, and as such will be constantly updated when I write another article. The posts will be listed in chronological order, from newest to oldest. 

I'm particularly proud of An Expanded History of Pechuga Mezcal, my lengthy, well-researched article about the history of the compelling Pechuga Mezcal. I had been previously informed that the oldest written documentation about Pechuga was from the 1950s, but my own research found documentation back to 1863! I found dozens of additional references to Pechuga and they help to provide a better understanding of this unique type of Mezcal. 

Mezcal hits every magic word—artisanal, organic, gluten-free, vegan. It comes from a small village, and you have to drive there to get it. It’s made by a family. It automatically became cool when knowing what you eat became cool. Tequila got to the point where it’s like Tyson chicken—that’s Cuervo. Now I want to know my chicken’s name. That’s mezcal.
--The New Yorker (April 4, 2016), "Mezcal Sunrise" by Dana Goodyear (Quoting Bricia Lopez)

Rant: Agave Reforestation & Saving Mezcal 
The Rise Of Tequila In The 18th & 19th Centuries 
An Expanded History of Pechuga Mezcal 
Paranubes Rum: An Oaxacan Treasure 
Pierde Almas Maguey de Lumbre Mezcal: Light My Fire  
Pierde Almas +9 Botanicals: The First Mezcal-Gin 
Ten Reasons To Drink Mezcal  
The Origins of Pechuga, Pierde Almas, & Mezcal de Conejo
Mezcal Amarás Cupreata Joven: An Intriguing Mezcal From a Rare Agave
Thirst Boston: Mezcal & Beyond
Mezcal Bars In the Boston Area
Amuleto Mexican Table, Mezcal Vago & "A Slap To The Face"
Rant: 400 Rabbits Say "Drink More Mezcal"
The Alsatian Connection To Tequila
Move Over Tequila & Mezcal, Here Comes Sotol

Mezcal is real and has nearly 500 years of history. It is hand-crafted and artisanally produced…. It has deep cultural significance in Mexico, from births, to weddings, to funerals, and is deeply woven into the fabric of community life.
--Holy Smoke! It’s Mezcal: A Complete Guide From Agave To Zapotec by John McEvoy

Monday, March 17, 2025

Rant: Must Chinese Food Be Cheap?

How must should a Pu Pu Platter cost? Should all Chinese cuisine be "cheap?" Are consumers more concerned about price over quality? 

When I recently posted my latest impressions of Wusong Road, there were some who were adamantly against paying a $50 for Pu Pu Platter for Two. I've seen this attitude frequently over the years, as Chinese cuisine is often viewed as a "cheap" cuisine, and many people don't want to pay high prices for it. Other ethnic foods or specific dishes, from burgers to pizza, are also often seen this same way, that prices should be low and that there's no reason to pay a higher price. 

In general, restaurants operate on very small profit margins. That's a fact that many people need to understand. Their menu prices are not intended to gouge your wallet but rather to support the functioning of the restaurant, to pay the bills, to pay their employees, and to hopefully give at least a small profit to the owner. Those are the same basic objectives of any for-profit business. 

Some people seem to believe that if they can find a food item for a cheap price somewhere, that the same item should be priced similarly everywhere. However, just because you might be able to get a cheeseburger for $5.00 at a large chain restaurant doesn't mean all restaurants should charge that price. There are numerous factors to consider in evaluating the price of a burger and whether it's reasonable or not. The same applies to Chinese Pu Pu platters, and Chinese food in general, as well. 

For example, what is the cost of their ingredients? Are they using lesser quality ingredients? Or are they using higher quality ingredients, so their costs are higher and they have to raise their prices. Would you rather that they used cheaper, lesser quality ingredients? Consider that food ingredients are more expensive nowadays. Anyone who has recently gone to the grocery store should understand that. So, restaurants are paying more for their ingredients and generally need to raise prices. If the price you pay for a Pu Pu platter is still very low, then what quality of ingredients must they be using? You should definitely ponder over that matter.   

In addition, how much work goes into the preparation of the foods on the Pu Pu platter? Were they pre-prepared, in large quantities, or are they made fresh for each order? Are the foods on the platter the usual Chinese appetizers, or are they inventive variations? Is the restaurant a small hole-in-the-wall that only offers take-out (and thus has less overhead) or is it a sit-down restaurant with various servers?  

Wusong Road, a sit-down restaurant and tiki bar, charges $50 for their Pu Pu Platter, but they use higher quality ingredients, and the food items are fresh, tasty and inventive. I consider the price reasonable for what you receive. In comparison, at the famed Kowloon, their basic Peninsular Pu Pu Platter is $37.95, but it's $47.50 with Beef Teriyaki. Wusong Road's price isn't that much different, but I don't often hear complaints about Kowloon's Pu Pu platters prices. Why is that so? In addition, the quality of the food at the Kowloon is inconsistent, so you may be paying that much for a lower quality experience. 

At other Chinese restaurants, you may find a Pu Pu platter for two people for $26-$30, so does that mean the Kowloon is too expensive?   

Consumers need to start paying the true value of the food they consume. They shouldn't expect that certain types of food must always be cheap. Would you be happy charging the lowest price in the market for your own services or products? Stop complaining about the prices of Chinese food and care more about the quality and taste. Don't have a knee-jerk reaction to higher price Chinese food, and actually try to understand the reasons for the price.  

Thursday, March 13, 2025

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
******************************************************
1) Kane’s Donuts is teaming up with Dorchester Brewing to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day with a special limited-edition treat. The DBco Cobblestone Stout Donut will be available from Thursday, March 13, through Monday, March 17, at all Kane’s Donuts locations: 120 Lincoln Avenue in Saugus, 1575 Broadway (Essex Landing) in Saugus, and 90 Oliver Street in Boston’s Financial District as well as Dorchester Brewing’s Tap Room on Saturday, March 15th.

Made in collaboration with Dorchester Brewing, the DBco Cobblestone Stout Donut features Kane’s light and airy yeast dough topped with a rich glaze crafted from reduced Cobblestone Boston Dry Stout, blended into Kane’s Signature Honey Glaze, and finished with festive St. Patrick’s Day sprinkles. 

"As a proud Massachusetts business, we love celebrating our local roots by collaborating with fellow New England makers and incorporating locally sourced ingredients whenever possible," said Maria Delios, Owner of Kane's Donuts. "Our partnership with Dorchester Brewing brings together two beloved traditions—craft beer and donuts—just in time for St. Patrick’s Day festivities."

The Cobblestone Stout offers an excellent all-day pub session beer for malt lovers. Pouring deep, dark black with a creamy tan head, Cobblestone is roasty coffee-chocolate on the nose, with dark chocolate and coffee roastiness following to a dry, slightly-roasty-bitter finish. With an ABV of 4.9%, Cobblestone pairs perfectly with the sweetness of a donut.

At Dorchester Brewing Company, we love collaborating with fellow local businesses to come up with a unique offering and even better when it’s something tasty like donuts made with our beer," said Matt Malloy, CEO and Co-Founder of Dorchester Brewing Company. “Community partnerships and engagement are some of our core values and we’re so thrilled that the DBco Cobblestone Stout Donut will be representing the best that Boston has to offer in donuts and beer!

2) On Monday, April 7, at 6:30pm, Abe & Louie’s will welcome Greg Brewer, owner of Brewer-Clifton Winery (Los Olivos, CA), to the Back Bay for a night of interesting wine pairings. Founded in 1996, Brewer-Clifton wines reflect the geographic, geologic and climatic uniqueness of California’s Santa Rita Hills appellation in Santa Barbara County. Founder and winemaker Greg Brewer has spent the entirety of his three-decade career dedicated to crafting cool-climate chardonnay and pinot noir from this finite stretch of land.

Brewer will team up with Abe & Louie’s executive chef, Mark Mariano, to present a best of land-and-sea menu designed for the cuisine and wine to balance brilliantly. During the reception, the 2022 Brewer-Clifton Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay will be complemented by the chef’s selection of passed hors d’oeuvres. The first course is tuna carpaccio with crème fraîche, cured egg yolk and Ossetra caviar paired with the 2021 Brewer-Clifton "3D" Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay. Moving to the entrée, oenophiles will sip two standouts from the collection – the 2022 Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir and a 2022 "Machado" Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir – while indulging in prime NY strip steak with truffled ricotta gnocchi and brown butter creamed spinach. For dessert, there’s a pistachio olive oil cake with blackberry compote and mascarpone served alongside Heitz Cellar’s Ink Grade Port.

COST: $185 per person (does not include tax or gratuity)
Reservations required in advance via Tock. This event is reserved for ages 21+ with proper ID.

3) Tonno Gloucester, located in downtown Gloucester, hosts a ‘Godfather’ Themed Wine Dinner on Tuesday, March 25th, at 6pm. The feast, fit for a mob king, features the iconic wines of Francis Ford Coppola’s esteemed Inglenook Estate, as well as an array of dishes and wines that pair well with five scenes from the movie. From Sicilian cannoli to tomato sauce with sausage, food plays a dynamic and symbolic role in Francis Ford Coppola’s epic mob drama. Tonno will take you back to different scenes in the movie where food played an integral part in the ‘Godfather.’

The ‘Godfather’ themed wine dinner’s five courses are listed below:
Opening: Sophia Sparkling Rose
1st Scene: Antipasto of baby gem lettuce, soppresata, provolone, artichoke hearts, hardboiled egg, radish, pepperoncini, roasted pepper, marinated mushrooms, olives, heirloom tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, and basil. Served with 2020 Alta Mora Etna Bianco.
2nd Scene: Lasagna with bechamel & tomato, Italian sauage and plum tomato sauce “Michael… you never know, you might have to cook for 20 guys someday.” Paired with 2019 Edizione Pennino Zinfandel.
3rd Scene (choice of): Veal marsala “try the veal…It’s the best in the city…” with mushroom and mashed potato OR Grilled Swordfish, potato, olives & capers. Both will be served with 2017 Inglenook 1882 Cabernet Sauvignon.
Final Scene: “Leave the gun. Take the cannoli” Orange ambrosia “The Wedding Cake” paired with Anisette.

Tickets to the five-course dinner and wine pairing are $175 per person, including tax and gratuity, and can be purchased by visiting Tonno Gloucester’s Resy.