Akashi-Tai Daiginjo Genshu Sake: Only Available at Karma in Winchester

There's a delicious, new Sake in Massachusetts but it's only available at Karma Asian Fusion Cuisine, in Winchester. It's a "Karma Private Label Sake," a Daiginjo Genshu from the Akashi Sake Brewery. It took over a year of development to make this project come to fruition. I recently enjoyed lunch at Karma, and made sure to try some of the exclusive Sake. They have a display of the Sake bottle on their bar (pictured above), and I especially love the Patriot's glasses on either side of the Sake. And the Sake was absolutely delicious! Even my dining companion, who generally dislikes Sake, enjoyed the taste. 

The Akashi Sake Brewery, a family business, was founded in 1856 and is located in the port city of Akashi in the Hyogo Prefecture. This Prefecture is a well-known Sake region, the birthplace of the famed Yamadanishiki rice, considered the "King" of Sake rice. Some of the most famous Sake regions are also located in Hyogo. Their current Toji, master Sake brewer, is Kimio Yonezawa, and their website states, "An innovator at heart, Kimio Yonezawa follows the way of “kakushin” (meaning radical innovation in Japanese), yet does so with absolute respect for the ingredients of the region, only ever making sake in small batches."

Kimio Yonezawa also states, “my goal is to create a sake with real personality.” He continues, “A luxurious, bodied, generous sake, with a lot of depth and great aromatic intensity, which makes you want to savour the tasting. I also wanted a sake that reveals its origins and the calming influences of the sea. I have spent much of my life searching for that magic moment, when the flavour of sake pairs with that of the food, creating a perfect balance.” Finally, he has also said, "To produce sake with character, you need three ingredients: the best local rice from the Hyogo prefecture, an artisanal method and a lot of passion."

A symbol of the brewery is the Tai, which means "sea bream" in Japanese. In the U.S., sea bream is sometimes called "red snapper," though that's incorrect as red snapper is actually a different fish. Sea bream are common in the waters of the coast of Akashi, and they use it as a lucky symbol as their "brewery has survived against the fierce currents of time and change since 1856." An image of the sea bream is depicted on the front label of their Sake bottles.    

The Akashi-Tai Daiginjo Genshu is an iconic Sake, but it hasn't been available for retail in the U.S. since 2019. So, now it's available in the U.S., but only at Karma, available by the glass for $17, or in a 300ml bottle for $55. It's a Honjozo Sake, meaning it's brewed from only 5 ingredients: rice, water, yeast, koji-kin mold, and brewer's alcohol. The brewer's alcohol is used to bring out certain flavors and aromas, and does not make the Sake more alcoholic. It's also made from Yamadanishiki rice, the King of Sake Rice, which has been milled down to only 38%. This Sake is a Daiginjo, the highest quality grade, which requires the rice to be polished down to at least 50%, so this Sake has been polished even more. It's also a Genshu, meaning it hasn't been diluted down by water, but has a 17% ABV, which is actually lower than many other Genshu, which can be around 20% ABV. 

I found this Sake to have an appealing fruity aroma (especially stone fruit), with a touch of floral notes. On the palate, it was absolutely delicious, complex and fruity, with subtle hints of floral elements. It was dry, with a medium-body, and a lengthy finish. It has a taste profile which should appeal to many people, even those new to Sake, or even those who claim they dislike Sake. This Sake could easily be enjoyed on its own, sipping with good friends, but it also would pair well with a variety of foods. It worked very well with the Sushi I had for lunch, but also went well with Crispy Chicken & Shrimp Wontons. The brewery also recommends that it pairs well with "Lamb or duck with a rich sauce, Oysters and other seafood, Marinated salmon and all types of sushi and sashimi." 

I recommend you dine at Karma in Winchester and order some of the Akashi-Tai Daiginjo Genshu Sake. Their Lunch Specials are an excellent and tasty deal, and the Sake would well complement the dishes.

Rant: Boring Customers Lead To Boring Restaurants

Last week, the Michelin Guide announced their results for the Boston+ area, the first year they have done so. Obviously, the list came with controversy, and plenty of people, including myself, felt they omitted some top-notch restaurants. 311 Omakase received the only Michelin Star, while six restaurants received Bib Gourmand designations, which emphasizes high quality food at a reasonable price. It's interesting that four of those six restaurants serve Asian cuisine while the other two serve Italian. Nineteen other restaurants were listed as Michelin Recommendations. 

Rather than address those restaurants which I believe should have received Michelin recognition, or deserved a Star rather than a mere Recommendation, I want to address another issue which has been raised during discussions about the Michelin Guide in Boston. 

Boring Restaurants!   

Some claim that Boston has too many boring restaurants, that innovation doesn't receive sufficient attention. Is that true? And if it's true, what is the reason for those boring restaurants? And if so, how can we change that situation?

First, we can all agree that operating a restaurant is a significant challenge, especially in these economic times, when finding good help is difficulty, the prices of food ingredients are high, rents are out of control, and liquor license prices can also be very high. Most restaurants operate on slim margins, especially the small, independent spots. So, it can be difficult to run a creative and innovative restaurant if you can't attract sufficient customers.  

And creativity and innovation is often resisted by boring customers. Too many people eat only a limited variety of meat and seafoods. Too many people are unwilling to try different cuisines, or different dishes, that are outside their normal intake or comfort level. For example, there are people who refuse to dine at an Italian restaurant unless it has chicken parmigiana on the menu. I've seen Italian restaurants cave into these customers, adding the dish to their menu, so they won't lose the business.   

A hundred years ago or so, Americans were more adventurous with their palates but that has been changing over time. We need to return to that prior time, to be more adventurous in our palates, being open to experience new foods. If we do, then maybe more creative restaurants can flourish rather than struggle.   

Consider that Americans primarily eat three animals: cows, pigs, and chickens. Approximately 10 billion animals are slaughtered in the U.S. annually, and almost 9 billion of them are chickens. Most Americans restrict their consumption to such a limited choice. Instead of chicken, why not expand your palate to include duck, quail, goose, squab, pheasant, and guinea hens? As for other meats, go beyond beef and pork, and try animals such as bison, elk, venison, rabbit, wild boar, lamb, goat, or go even more exotic with items like kangaroo, snake, yak, llama, and more. Did you know that the USDA has stated that Rabbit is the most nutritious meat?  At the very least, you should seek out more heritage and special breeds of cows and pigs, from Wagyu cattle to Mangalitsa pigs. 

As for seafood, most of it consumed by Americans is limited to 10 different types, including Shrimp, Salmon, Tuna, Tilapia, Alaska Pollock, Pangasius, Cod, Crab, Catfish, and Clams. With our proximity to the coast and access to the vast bounty of the sea, our seafood consumption should range much wider. We have so many other options available to us. Why not venture out to consume more mussels, dogfish, sardines, mackerel, fluke, and much more?  

Let's also consider restaurant drink programs. Too many people demand to find California Chardonnay on a restaurant wine list. By catering to this demand, and other similar ones, wine lists can become very boring. Fortunately, there some courageous restaurants, such as A Tavola and Krasi, which have taken a bold stance, restricting their wines to a single country, the country of their chosen cuisine. Would you expect to find a Neapolitan pizza on the menu at a Sushi restaurant? No. Would you expect to find a cheeseburger on the menu of a Spanish tapas restaurant? No. In a similar vein, diners shouldn't expect that a restaurant, concentrating on a specific cuisine, will carry wines from all regions of the world. Diners need to be more adventurous, willing to try different wines from the popular Chardonnay, Cabernet or Sauvignon Blanc. 

Why have Americans become so boring with their food choices? Primarily, it's a psychological issue, and rarely a taste issue. Customers "think" they won't like a meat, seafood, or wine, even though they have not tasted it. They choose to stick with the familiar rather than take a risk. They get into a rut, always ordering the same dish at specific types of restaurants. However, by doing so, they compel some restaurants to conform to their boring tastes, and the industry overall suffers. Restaurants would like to take more chances, but it needs to be financially viable. And with too many boring customers, the risk isn't often worth it.   

Stop being so boring, and let your palate take an adventure. Let more Boston restaurants embrace creativity and innovation! 

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) This Thanksgiving, The Vermilion Club, in downtown Boston, is rolling out a three-course prix-fixe menu that elevates the classic holiday meal with Chef John Fraser’s ingredient-obsessed, chophouse-meets-seasonal cuisine. 

The experience begins with freshly baked Hawaiian rolls served with rosemary-pineapple butter. For starters, guests can choose from inventive dishes like French Onion Dumplings (featuring truffle, Gruyère, and shiitake consommé), a crisp Kale & Chrysanthemum Salad with radish and lemon-breadcrumb vinaigrette, or an earthy Pear & Beet Salad with hazelnut dukkah and whipped goat cheese.

On to the mains: the menu offers a choice between a Roasted Heritage Turkey Breast (complete with a confit leg, roasted parsnip, and baby kale), a vegetarian Roasted Honey Nut Squash over farroto with puffed quinoa and Swiss chard, as well as more elevated options like Seared Ora King Salmon (with celery root, winter truffle & maple-mustard glaze) and Glazed Short Rib paired with Anson Mills polenta and Cipollini onions. For a full menu, see HERE.  

Priced at $85 per guest, the three-course menu is available Thanksgiving Day from 12 to 8 p.m. and requires a Reservation HERE.

2) The Nautilus Pier 4's has brought back their holiday lunches, with more dates added through December and into the new year. Guests can enjoy items like the Peking-Inspired Whole Roasted Duck, the Holiday Lunch Burger with foie gras dipping sauce and more. 

Chef Stephen Marcaurelle and his team have created a festive and indulgent holiday lunch menu featuring menu staples as well as indulgent seasonal specials. Wine Director Brittany Tangora has curated a beautiful wine list to pair along with festive cocktails by General Manager Bill Sabine and the Nautilus beverage team.

WHEN: 11:30am- 3:00pm (bar open through dinner); December 4-6, 11-13, 18-20, 27-28 | January 2-3
Reservations open 14 days in advance

3) nine is introducing two weekends of elegant holiday lunches in their Beacon Hill space. The holiday lunch menu features a special Goose for Two – half a goose, seared breast, and sides as well as items from nine’s seasonal à la carte menu. Winter beverages include the Nephele (vodka, basil liqueur, red currant & clove foam) and the Epirus Spritz (hibiscus, blood orange, sparkling orange wine) and the Pick Your Own (zero-proof amaretto, apple cider, and lemon).

WHEN: December 11–14 and 18–21; Seating from 12–2:30pm;

Guests can linger post-lunch, as the bar remains open through dinner service.
Reservations HERE

Rant: During The Holidays, Pair Bubbly With Food

"You don't need to be a sommelier as sparkling wine pairs with everything."
--Marcello Lunelli

During the holiday season, many people will purchase Champagne or other types of Sparkling Wine, such as Prosecco, Cava, Franciacorta, Crémant, and Pet-Nat. However, when will you drink that bubbly? For most people, it'll merely be for an apertif or for a celebratory toast. Yes, it's excellent on these occasions but it can be so much more! 

Many people don't realize that Sparkling Wine also pairs very well with a wide variety of foods, and can be consumed throughout the course of a meal, from appetizer to dessert. When's the last time you enjoyed Sparkling Wine throughout your dinner? I suspect many people do not commonly enjoy it with their food. At best, it's most common to have Mimosas, bubbly and orange juice, for breakfast or brunch, but the bubbly isn't enjoyed on its own. 

Even restaurant sommeliers rarely recommend drinking Sparkling Wine with your dinner. And that's a mistake. Sure, there are plenty of wines that pair well with food, but why omit Sparkling Wine from the discussion? I can't recall the last dinner I attended where a sommelier ever recommended a Sparkling Wine with my appetizers or entree.

Wine lovers need to get over their misconception that Sparkling Wine is mainly an aperitif or celebratory wine. They need to take the chance and drink it with whatever they choose to eat, from seafood to steak, pasta to Chinese food. It's a versatile wine when it comes to food pairings, and it can be so delicious. 

When I previously visited the Champagne region, I experienced Champagne paired with nearly all of my food courses, for both lunch and dinner. I found Champagne to pair well with so many different dishes and you really can't go wrong selecting it for your meal. No matter what the cuisine, Champagne would be a fine accompaniment and it doesn't have to be paired only with high-end cuisine. Why not enjoy Champagne with pizza? Or tacos? Or just a bag of salty potato chips?

Champagne and other Sparkling Wines are produced in a variety of styles, in different sweetness levels, and its diversity assists in making it friendly with a variety of cuisines. Rosé bubbly is one of my favorite styles, and I've found it great with many different foods. I urge you to experiment with food pairings. Grab a bottle of Sparkling Wine and drink it with whatever you're eating. You'll be surprised at how good it tastes with your food. And if you have guests, they'll think you're a wine genius for pairing bubbly with all the dishes.

Mirena Bagur: New Executive Director of the Global Artisan Vintners Alliance

Back in March, I reported on the formation of The Global Artisan Vintners Alliance (AVA), which will "promote collaboration and exchange of information between winemakers, wine associations, government representatives, tourism and economic development organizations, and business associations. Representatives of the partner wine regions will actively participate in professional development opportunities through discussions about winemaking techniques and sustainability methods, student and professional intern exchanges, and sharing of best practices around economic development, agri-tourism and marketing initiatives to elevate the global presence of the participating wine region, among other opportunities."

The Global Artisan Vintners Alliance (AVA) has now announced that it has appointed Mirena Bagur, pictured above, as the Executive Director. “Proud of what we’ve accomplished so far and recognizing the need for the Alliance to enter a new phase, I am pleased to name Mirena Bagur as the Executive Director. After working with Mirena for a year, I am confident she will leverage her international experience, gravitas and passion, as well as knowledge of the wine industry, to lead the organization in expanding its footprint and strengthening relationships among members, ” said David Haubert, Alameda County, District 1 Supervisor, who played a pivotal role in the establishment of the Global AVA, and serves as its President. Haubert added, “Mirena will also focus on enhancing collaboration with value-added education among the partner wine regions.” 

Mirena’s career includes working in the high-tech industry where she led global campaigns for many brands in a large global agency, including a focus on healthcare when she taught an entrepreneurship course at Harvard/MIT. She has been an active member of many entrepreneurial and business mentoring associations, and has cofounded Croatian Premium Wine Imports, Inc. In that role, she collaborates with numerous Croatian government agencies, business and wine associations, and leverages her business experience to uplift the education about Croatian indigenous wines as a tool for promoting the Croatian economy and tourism in the US. She is also involved in various cultural organizations. Mirena holds a masters of economy degree, focused on international trade from the University of Zagreb, Croatia. 

“It’s already been inspirational to work with the founding members of the Global AVA and I’m fortunate to have the opportunity to work with the Supervisor’s team in Livermore and all the regions as we figure out how to meaningfully collaborate moving forward,” said Mirena Bagur. “So far, we’ve had a year to familiarize and discuss similar topics to address, and I look forward to leading the Global AVA into our next phase when our work will become better known to potential new regions. We will also create additional forums for knowledge sharing and collaboration. I’d like to extend my gratitude to the existing alliance members for their excitement and collaboration to date and am happy to announce we will have the in-person opportunity to exchange ideas at the next annual Summit, which will take place in Hungary in late March 2026.” 

I've known Mirena for a number of years, and have traveled with her twice to Croatia. She's an excellent choice as Executive Director, and I can attest to her deep passion for wine and her great grasp of organizational details. When the Global Artisan Vintners Alliance was initially formed, I could see her dedication to the goals of this new group, and believe will work hard and do her best to promote the objectives of this organization. Congratulations to Mirena!