Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) Chateau Musar, located in Lebanon, is a superb winery and I've long been a fan of their delicious and exciting wines. A rare opportunity now arises for wine lovers to experience a interesting range of their wines, including multiple vintages of their iconic wines, accompanied by the fine cuisine of Chef Anthony Caturano at Prezza in the North End.

On Wednesday, October 23, starting at 6:30pm, Prezza and Fine Wine Specialist, Dan Michaud of Ruby Wines, invite guests to experience a unique seven-course wine dinner, with 10 offerings from Chateau Musar. It promises to be an epic evening for any wine lover.   

The evening kick-offs with a glass of 2022 Jeune Blanc, paired with Short Rib Hummus with spicy harissa, crispy shallots and warm pita bread. The second course will be Wood Grilled Octopus Skewers with smokey romesco sauce, salsa verde and chermoula, paired with glasses of the 2021 Leventine and 2020 Hochar Pere Et File. The third and fourth courses will be Wood Grilled Swordfish with tahini, lemon parsley and cous cous and Lobster, chickpeas, and harissa spiced tomato sauce, and accompanied by three vintages of the amazing Chateau Musar Blanc (which is made from two grapes indigenous to Lebanon), including 1997, 2012 and 2017.  

The fifth and sixth courses will be Braised Chicken Thigh with mushrooms and dried fig and Grilled Lamb Chop with roasted carrots, honey glaze, feta cheese, watercress and Lebanese rice. These will be paired with three vintages of the Chateau Musar Rouge, including 1997, 2012, and 2017. Finally, the last course will be Olive Oil Pound Cake with crème, anglaise, crème fraiche, strawberries and mint, paired with a glass of Arak Du Musar.

The seven-course dinner, with wine parings, costs $200 per person (which includes tax and gratuity). For tickets, email Brittany@prezza.com or call them at 617-227-1577.

2) Make your holiday plans now to attend the Feast of the Seven Fishes at Row 34 in Burlington or Cambridge. Join Chef Jeremy Sewall and indulge in a multi-course seafood dinner, complete with a welcome beverage and reception. Each course is paired with select wines, ensuring a delightful culinary journey. Gather with friends and family to celebrate the holiday season while savoring the flavors of this festive feast. Row 34 is one of my favorite Seafood restaurants and I'm sure this dinner will be an excellent experience, and definitely worth a splurge for the holidays.

Multiple dates are available, including:

Burlington: December 15 (6pm), December 19 (6pm), & December 22 (6pm)

Cambridge: December 14 (6pm) & December 21 (6pm)

Cost: $175 per person (which includes all taxes, fees, and gratuity).

Rant: We Don't Need Recipe Photos!

I highly recommend you check out Culinary Class Wars on Netflix. It's a South Korean cooking competition series which pits 100 chefs, broken down into 20 celebrity chefs and 80 other chefs, against each other in an intense contest. The contestants are competing for a prize of 300 Million Won, equivalent to about U.S. $222,000. There are two primary judges: Paik Jong-won, a restaurateur and celebrity chef, and Anh Sung-jae, the only Michelin 3-star chef in Korea. The competition is fierce and riveting, especially during the period when the two judges are blindfolded, judging each dish solely by taste, and where they are fed these bites by assistants. It's one of the best cooking competitions I've ever seen.   

One of the celebrity contestants was Chef Edward Lee, who was born in New York to Korean parents and currently lives in Louisville, Kentucky and Washington, D.C. He's the chef/owner of 610 Magnolia in Louisville, and culinary director of Succotash in National Harbor, Maryland, and Penn Quarter, Washington, D.C. Lee is also a nine-time James Beard Award nominee, and the author of three books: Bourbon Land, Buttermilk Graffiti and Smoke & Pickles. On Culinary Class Wars, he showed his innovative culinary skills and impressed me with his many creative dishes. 

Buttermilk Graffiti details Lee's travels across the U.S., from Lowell, Massachusetts to New Orleans, seeking fascinating culinary tales. It's a well written and interesting compilation of food stories, and well worth reading. The book also contains about 40 different recipes, and contrary to almost every other modern cookbook, it doesn't contain any photos of the completed dishes! 

Lee noted, "This was done on purpose. I want you, the reader, to trust your instincts and cook the way I know you are capable of. Having a recipe published with an accompanying photo is a pretty modern invention. We have been following recipes without photos for centuries. When we don’t know what the end result is supposed to look like, the imagination is allowed to roam free and we come up with our own conclusions. Pictures are excellent guides, and can give you a goal to aspire to, but they can also have a negative effect. If you make a dish and it doesn’t look exactly like the photo, you might feel a sense of failure. I don’t want that."

He then continued, "None of these recipes are restaurant-style dishes, so the accuracy of plating is less important than the taste of the food. I want you to pay attention to the aromas, flavors, textures, to the feel of the food in your mouth. Don’t worry if what you make doesn’t look good enough to be on the cover of a magazine. If it tastes good, you’ve succeeded."

It's true that if you consult old recipe books, they rarely had photos of the various dishes, although occasionally there was a drawing of a dish or two. Nowadays though, photos in cookbooks are the norm, and making the dishes look beautiful in those photos is very important. It's true on social media too, where photos of your dishes are so important to many. However, how many times did they have to create that dish to ensure it looked perfect? 

How many times do home cooks prepare a recipe from a cookbook, and the end result doesn't resemble that perfect photo in the cookbook? I suspect that for most home cooks, their dishes rarely emulate those photos. The photos tend to emphasize the superficial aspect of the dish, its look, rather than its taste. And in the end, isn't the taste of the dish the most important aspect of any recipe? 

When you prepare a recipe from an old cookbook, which has no photos, is it really any harder to create? It shouldn't be difficult at all, and maybe is even easier as you have less expectations, as you don't have to make the dish look a certain way. It can be liberating, to make a dish in your own way, and simply ensure it tastes delicious. Stop judging your own dishes by glossy photographs of perfectly prepared food. Just make it your way and enjoy.     

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) On October 19, from 6pm-9pm, All Hallow’s Eve will arrive early to Joe’s Waterfront with their Haunted Harbor happening. "Set atop an eerily calm Boston Harbor, the evening will have ghouls and dolls dressed to the nines in their costumes of choice – with prizes for the most creepy and creative – while dancing the Monster Mash, snacking on devilishly delicious bites and sipping on libations worthy of the Sanderson Sisters."

Revelers will get the party started noshing on passed “finger” foods (fried mac and cheese balls, deviled eggs, shrimp cocktail, assorted flatbreads), stationed snacks (mini lobster rolls, a supersized deli sandwich, noodle salad cups, a charcuterie spread enhanced with seasonal fruit, spinach dip with veggies and chips, chef’s choice salad cups) and sweets (mini desserts, Halloween-themed cupcakes).

If your costume doesn’t land you a top spot in the zombie pageant, try your luck with the raffle – with proceeds benefitting MassGeneral Hospital for Children – that includes prizes like gift cards, overnight hotel stays, sports tickets, and more.

COST: $49 per person (includes entry and food). Cash bar available.
TICKETS: Advance tickets recommended via EventBrite. Walk-in entry available as space permits.
MORE: A portion of ticket sales and all raffle ticket proceeds will be donated to MassGeneral for Children. This event is reserved for ages 21+.

2) Abe & Louie’s has debuted a revamped menu that embodies the bold flavors of the season. Executive chef Mark Mariano has refreshed some classic dishes while introducing new dishes that feature the best from land and sea to pair with their wine list.

For salad newcomers, there is the Shrimp Louie with arugula, avocado, cucumber, egg and housemade Thousand Island dressing ($26); Abe’s House with baby romaine, cucumber, tomato, olives, red onion and feta in a Dijon vinaigrette ($16); and Roasted Beet & Goat Cheese with pistachio, dill and aged balsamic ($19). There are four appetizer additions: Bacon-Wrapped Squash with grain mustard sauce ($18); Clams Casino with smoked bacon, bell pepper and breadcrumbs ($20); Oysters Rockefeller with spinach, hollandaise and breadcrumbs ($24); and Hand-Cut Beef Tenderloin Tartare with capers, shallot, cornichons, Dijon and baguette ($22).

In addition to their menu of signature à la carte chops, there is now an eight-ounce Ribeye Cap Steak ($75) while the entrees have been refreshed with seasonal accompaniments and also include new creations: Cedar Plank Salmon with green beans and mustard glaze ($36); Blackened-Spiced Tuna with cucumber, ginger and soy glaze ($40); Grilled Atlantic Swordfish with lemon-caper butter and parsley ($34); Diver Sea Scallops with celery root puree and smoked bacon jam ($44); Veal Chop Diane with mushroom, cognac and Dijon ($68); Pan-Roasted Chicken with crispy potatoes, green beans, lemon and jus ($36); a double-cut Kurobuta Bone-In Pork Chop with roasted apples and onions ($37); Rosemary-Crusted Rack of Lamb with natural jus and mint ($60); and Black Truffle & Kabocha Squash Risotto with shallot, thyme and parmesan with an option to top it with lobster ($32/52). For a touch of sweet? Housemade Key Lime Pie in a Graham cracker crust with raspberry sauce ($14).

For weekend brunch, to start, there are Beignets with warm caramelized apple chutney ($14) and an omelet addition is Lobster & “Eggs” with Ossetra caviar and mascarpone ($44). For a heartier order, new entrees include Belgian Waffles with berries, Chantilly cream and Vermont maple syrup ($18); Boston Cream Pie French Toast with vanilla cream, chocolate and brioche ($20); Lobster “Madame” with gruyère, béchamel and a sunny-side up egg ($36); and the Brunch Burger, a nine-ounce prime beef patty topped with Nueske’s bacon, fried egg and cheddar served with hand-cut French fries ($24).

3) Chef Kegan Stritchko is debuting a new early-evening feature menu at XOXO Sushi Bar in Chestnut Hill. Available nightly from 5-6pm, “Appy Hour” showcases a collection of handrolls available at half-price in addition to other wallet-friendly chef creations.

The “Bites” section offers standouts from land and sea like the Island Creek oyster with seasonal garnish ($2.50), a pork belly bao bun with sweet chili miso, yuzu kosho and micro cilantro ($11), spicy tuna crispy rice with charred pineapple, jicama and aji amarillo ($12.50) and himachi aburi with green apple zu, pickled green apple, green apple relish, shiso and basil oil ($13.50). There also is a quartet of handrolls designed with intricate layers of flavors and textures: spicy crunchy with a choice of tuna, yellowtail or salmon with tempura flakes, spicy aioli and crispy shallots ($6); spicy tuna with aji amarillo, charred pineapple and jicama ($8.50), yellowtail jalapeño with soy-marinated jalapeño, mango, cilantro and ponzu ($6) and leche de tigre, a white fish ceviche with cilantro and avocado wrapped in soy paper ($7.50).

For those seeking a more formal dining experience, XOXO Sushi Bar recently unveiled a 16-course omakase menu. The experience is limited to only one seating on Tuesdays and Wednesdays with two options – the 16-course culinary adventure with or without a menu of eight wine, sake and whisky pairings – with a finale of dessert.

Reservations are recommended via Resy or by calling (617) 505-3378.

Izumibashi Kurotonbo Kimoto Junmai Sake: A Cultivation Brewery

One of my favorite styles of Sake are the Kimoto/Yamahai, which can taste earthy with lots of umami and higher acidity. Because of their high level of acidity and umami, they can pair well with many different foods. 

Kimoto was the original method of production, basically where large oar-like poles, referred to as yamaoroshi, were used to stir the moto, the yeast starter. Natural lactic acid in the air would hopefully then help the fermentation process. For hundreds of years, this process was conducted in Sake breweries all across Japan. It wasn't until the beginning of the 20th century, did someone realize that this laborious process was completely unnecessary. 

In 1909, Professor Kinichiro Kagi, at the National Institute for Brewing Studies, realized that the use of the oar-like poles to mix the moto wasn’t necessary. The moto could be left on its own to complete the process, although a couple adjustments were required, including adding some more water and raising the temperature a bit. This was known as Yamahai, which is short hand for "yamaoroshi haishi moto," which roughly translates as "creating the moto without the use of oar-like poles."

Soon after the introduction of the Yamahai style, brewers realized they could simply add lactic acid to the yeast starter, which made the brewing process much shorter, as well as less risky. It is now the most dominant method of Sake production, although some breweries still make Sake using the Kimoto and Yamahai processes. 

The Izumibashi Kurotonbo "Black Dragonfly" Kimoto Junmai, with a 16% ABV, is produced by the Izumibashi Shuzo, which was established in the Kanagawa Prefecture in 1857. The name Izumibashi basically means "Izumi Bridge," referring to the Izumi River (which is used to irrigate their rice), and Hashi, their family name.

Izumibashi is a registered “Cultivation Brewery,” which means it grows, harvests and mills its own rice. This is a rarity as most Sake breweries purchase their Sake rice. Izumibashi promotes the belief that "Sake Starts with Rice." They also use "environmentally-friendly reduced-pesticide cultivation processes." They produce Junmai Sake, and half of their production is also in the Kimoto style. 

The "Black Dragonfly" Sake is made from Yamada Nishiki rice, the "king" of Sake rice, which has been polished down to 65%. Different sources indicate that its Acidity may range from 1.5-1.9, and that is SMV may be +10 or +12 (tending to mean it is likely very dry). This Sake was also aged for two years before its release. I found this to be a compelling, complex and absolutely delicious Sake. There was a dominant umami presence, along with intriguing and silky flavors of chestnuts, melon, and an almost chocolate accent. There were also hints of other, almost elusive flavors, that tantalized and pleased the palate. It possessed a fuller, creamier body (yet with balanced acidity) and a lengthy finish. Superb!   

This Sake would pair well with a wide variety of foods, including beef and other proteins, as well as fried foods. A mushroom pizza, or burger with mushrooms atop it, would also go along very well with this Sake. An Italian dish, with a red sauce and parmigiana cheese, would be a pleasant pairing too. Highly recommended!

Rant: Why Don't You Eat More Seafood?

Eat More Seafood! Eat More Seafood! Eat More Seafood!

Last Friday, I enjoyed a delicious lunch of Fried Lobster Tails at the Clam Box in Ipswich, as well as some Fried Native Clams and Fried Scallops. After lunch, I stopped at the Ipswich Shellfish Fish Market, a "pop-up" fish market that's only open on Fridays and Saturdays. This is a top-notch market for fresh and tasty seafood of all kinds, from mussels to crab meat, hake to cod loin, salmon to halibut, and much more. Prices are reasonable and service is excellent. I willingly drive about a half hour just to shop here for seafood. 

And after this weekend of seafood bliss, I've been thinking once again how the vast majority of people need to eat more seafood. As I've said repeatedly before, seafood consumption will significantly lessen your chances of dying from the leading cause of death in the U.S., heart disease. That's a powerful reason why you should consume more seafood and it's far from the only reason. 

According to the Centers for Disease Control & Prevention (CDC), the leading cause of death in the U.S. is heart disease, killing over 614,000 people each year. We all have had family and friends who have died from heart disease, and we should be doing what we can to reduce our own chances of acquiring heart disease. Do you want to die prematurely, leaving your loved ones without your presence? Do you want to die from heart disease when you could have adopted a small lifestyle change which might have saved you?

Seafood consumption is a significant key to reducing your chances of heart disease. Since the 1970s, over 20,000 research studies have been conducted on the health benefits of seafood and they have concluded that eating seafood twice a week can reduce your chance of dying from heart disease by about 36%. You won't find another single food that has been scientifically proven to reduce heart disease so much. Low seafood consumption is blamed for 84,000 deaths in the U.S. and 1.4 million globally. Besides helping to reduce heart disease, research has also been providing growing evidence of the health benefits to the brain and bones as well as against cancers and inflammatory diseases. Eating more seafood is such a simple change to your lifestyle and it can bring so many health benefits.

According to recommendations from the USDA, and many other bodies, Americans should consume at least 26 pounds of seafood each year, essentially meaning you should eat 4 ounces of seafood twice a week. The average American doesn't consume this much seafood. Per capita seafood consumption peaked in 2021 at 17 pounds (still 9 pounds short of the USDA recommendation), but has been on a slight decline since then. Currently, per capita consumption is only 16.5 pounds.

Besides the health reasons for eating more seafood, another compelling reason is the taste. Seafood is delicious! It's diverse in its flavor profiles so there should be something to cater to all preferences. Even if you dislike shellfish, then maybe you will enjoy a flaky white fish or a richer salmon. Fish can be prepared in a myriad of methods, from raw to baked, fried to grilled. Add it to soups or risottos, casseroles or sauces.

I know that one of the major obstacles to increases seafood consumption is price. People perceive that seafood is expensive, so they are less likely to buy it, opting for less expensive proteins. However, there are plenty of ways to get better value when purchasing seafood. First, buy seafood types, like mussels, which are very good values. Second, seek out local seafood as it often can be less expensive than imported seafood. Third, buy seasonal seafood as it is usually less expensive because it is more abundant in season. If you buy fish out of season, the price may have a premium added to it. Fourth, check out some of the less popular fish species, which may be cheaper because there is less demand for it. Try wild drum fish, snook, or cobia rather than tuna and cod. Fifth, consider eating smaller portions of fish, rather than you would a large steak or pork chop at one sitting. You only need 4 ounces of seafood, twice a week, and that smaller size works out to be a less expensive meal overall. 

Step up your game and eat more seafood. Try to consume seafood at least twice a week. What's stopping you from reaching your seafood consumption goal?