Zé da Calçada: Lunch in Amarante

During our vacation in Portugal, after we left the Monverde Wine Hotel Experience, we traveled to the town of Amarante, still in the Vinho Verde region. Before exploring some of the town, we first stopped for lunch at Zé da Calçada. It's a famous restaurant in the area, with a history extending back to the 19th century, and serving regional Portuguese cuisine. The restaurant's balcony extends over the scenic Tâmega River. 

The restaurant is located in one of the only buildings that survived the war with Napoleon in 1809. In 1809, there had been a battle at the nearby Ponte de São Gonçalo, where Portuguese forces held off Napoleon's army for a couple weeks, before the French finally won. The French then pillaged and destroyed much of the town. 

We dined at Zé da Calçada for lunch on a Sunday, and it was quite busy, many who seemed to be local residents, or at least Portuguese. There were several large tables of diners, receiving substantial platters of food to share. There was also a joyous ambiance to the restaurant.

As I examined their wine list, I wanted to choose a wine from the Vinho Verde region, and the list had 21 choices, including 14 whites, 3 rosés, and 4 reds. As we were going to eat some meats, I decided on a red wine. We ordered a bottle of the Quinta do Outeiro De Baixo Vinho Verde Tinto Reserva (12.5 Euro), from the Amarante region. Made from the Vinhão grape, the wine had a 12.5% ABV, and was served chilled, like a white wine. It was tasty, with a little effervescence, pleasant red fruit flavors, mild tannins, and a slight rustic touch. 

The Food Menu was relatively small, with 3 Starters (such as Salad and Shrimp), 3 Fish Mains (2 being Bacalhau dishes), and 5 Meat Mains (Goat to Veal). Prices for the Mains ranged from 14.50 to 16 Euros for a 1/2 dose, and 29 to 32 Euros for 1 dose. Although 1 dose is supposed to be a portion for a single person, we found that at a number of Portuguese restaurants it can be sufficient food for 2 or more people. So, we chose to get 1/2 dose portions, and there was still plenty of food for a hearty lunch. 

The Bochechas de Porco estufadas em vinho tinto com puré de castanha (15 Euros) are Pork cheeks, stewed in red wine, with a chestnut purée and a side of a cabbage dish. The pork was tender and flavorful, with a rich and savory sauce. The chestnut purée was also very good, like a nutty version of mashed potatoes. On a slightly rainy Sunday afternoon, it was a hearty and satisfying choice. 

The Posta de Vitela Tradicional (15 Euros) is a traditional Veal Steak, with roasted potatoes and cabbage. The veal was excellent, tender, juicy and cooked perfectly. A pure delight. The potatoes too were very good, nicely roasted. 

We skipped dessert as we had plans to stop at a famous, local pastry shop to taste a variety of their convent sweets. I recommend dining at Zé da Calçada if you ever stop in Amarante.