Rant: DON'T DRINK & DRIVE.....OR ELSE!

It couldn't be any simpler so listen carefully. This is one of the most important pieces of advice you will receive this season. Please, please, please give this your full attention. 

If you've had too much alcohol to drink, if there's any, absolutely any, doubt in your mind, don't drive. Just don't do it! Any questions? 

Once again, as an annual post, I step forward with probably my most important Rant of the Year. It's an absolutely vital issue for everyone who enjoys alcohol of any type, from wine to beer, from Scotch to hard cider. With the imminent advent of the holiday season we reach a potentially dangerous period for those people who over indulge, who drink too much at parties, feasts and gatherings. There is nothing wrong with that, and you can drink as much as you desire, as long as you give up your keys to someone who is sober, and you do not drive. 

As I've said multiple times before, and which I'll repeat year after year, "If there is any question, no matter how small, whether you are too intoxicated to drive, then don't. If your family or friends think you have had too much to drink, don't drive. Just don't. It is not worth the risk by any calculation." Err on the side of caution so that if you have any doubt of your capacity to drive, then please do not drive. Take a taxi or Uber, catch a ride with someone else, walk or sleep it off. Just don't drive! 

Rationally, we all know the dangers of drinking and driving. We endanger our own lives as well as the lives of others. Every year, we hear multiple news reports about terrible auto accidents, some with fatalities, that occur because a driver was intoxicated. Families are torn apart, lives are ruined, and much more. Why don't we learn from all these incidents? Even if you don't get in an accident, you might get arrested for drunk driving, with all the attendant high costs, and not just economic. You might even end up in jail. 

About 17,000 people are arrested for drunk driving in Massachusetts each year. That is a huge figure, showing that far too many people still don't understand that they should not drink and drive. Did you know that if you only had two drinks in a hour, you might still have a blood alcohol level over the legal limit? How difficult is it to understand? DON'T DRINK & DRIVE! I'm sure drunk driving incidents in other states are just as significant. 

As a more sobering statistic, 13,384 people in the U.S. were killed in drunk driving accidents in 2021, a 14% increase from the prior year. Such deaths shouldn't be increasing, and it's obviously there are far too many deaths. It needs to be change and change now. Back in 2007, there had been a historical high of 13,041 drunk driving fatalities, and the number of fatalities had been decreasing until 2020. And then, there was a 14% increase in 2021. 

The statistics are going the wrong way! More people are dying because of drunk drivers and that needs to stop. Each time you drink and drive, you endanger yourself, your passengers, pedestrians, cyclists, and people in other vehicles. Let someone else drive you, whether it be a friend or family. Take an Uber or public transportation. Leave your car where it is parked as you can always pick it up the next day. You have plenty of options so there is absolutely no reason to drink and drive. Be responsible. 

I don't want to lose any family or friends this year due to a drunk driving accident. I don't think anyone wants to lose their loved ones either. Your family and friends would rather you didn't drink and drive as they don't you to die in a terrible drunk driving accident. So please just don't! 

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) For a limited time, Kane's Donuts will prepare Sufganiyot donuts in honor of Hannukah from Thursday, December 7th, through Friday, December 15th. This traditional holiday dessert is a black raspberry jelly-filled donut, with Kane's light yeast dough sprinkled with powdered sugar and an extra dollop of jelly on top. The donuts are available for pre-order by the dozen for $25 at Kane's Rt. 1, Lincoln Avenue, and Boston locations. Donuts can be ordered through kanesdonuts.com.

Sufganiyot is a traditional cross between a beignet and a pillowy jelly donut and is eaten worldwide during the eight nights of Hannukah. It's said that fried treats are a good fit for a holiday focused on oil, commemorating the miracle of one night of oil lasting for eight.

Quinta dos Murças: Historic, Traditional, Organic & Delicious

Back in 2011, I first tasted a wine from Quinta dos Murças, the 2008 Quinta dos Murças Reserva, and it was superb! I previously stated, "It had an enticing and exotic nose, with an earthy and spicy smell mixed in with blackfruit. On the palate, it delivered on the promises of its nose, with a complex melange of earth, spice, vanilla, blackfruit and even mild hints of herbality. The tannins were moderate and the finish was long and pleasing. This is a wine to slowly savor, relishing its complexity, as well as a perfect wine for wild boar, lamb, or a juicy steak." It also ended up on my list of Top Ten Wines Over $15 of 2011. 

Since then, I've tasted the wine several more times, and it's remained a top favorite. I've also tasted a few other wines from Quinta dos Murças, enjoying them as well. So, when I was planning my recent vacation to Portugal, I wanted to visit Quinta dos Murças in the Douro valley. Arrangements were made, and one morning, we drove to the winery for a tour and tasting, led by our personable, charming and knowledgeable host, Silvia Santos. 

The known history of the estate extends back at least to the early 18th century, although it's possible it could even be older. It's known that the estate existed in 1714, under a different name, and was owned by António Cardoso de Vasconcelos. The estate wouldn't be known as Quinta dos Murças until 1770, when that name was first documented in a wine shipping log. During the next 170 years or so, there were multiple mentions about the quality of the estate's wines, but unfortunately, at times, the vineyards were neglected and the estate passed through a series of different owners.   

In 1943, the estate was acquired by Manuel Pinto de Azevedo, a leading industrialist and entrepreneur, who hired José de Freitas Sampaio, an agronomist, to renovate the estate, replant its vineyards and build a new winery. The wines of this estate would then regain their excellent reputation. This would also lead, in 1947, to the introduction of the first vertically planted vineyard in the Douro region. Then,  in 2008, after 65 years, the descendants of Manuel sold the esteemed property to the Esporão group. 

As our tour began, we boarded a vehicle, driven by an agricultural manager, and visited various vineyards, sometimes driving on narrow roads or dirt roads. The views were amazing, the great beauty of the Douro region such a marvel. The steep slopes were impressive, especially considering the difficulty of managing the vines on those slopes. Running any vineyard is a difficult job, but running a vineyard on such steep slopes is even more difficult. 

Quinta dos Murças owns about 155 hectares of land, 48 of which are vineyards, located along 3.2 kilometers of the Douro River’s right bank. It has been determined that the estate possesses eight different terroirs, with various altitudes and sun exposures, schist soils, and more. Numerous indigenous Portuguese grapes are grown in the vineyards, generally in field blends, and there are also almond, olive and orange trees on the estate. The olive trees are generally used to mark the boundaries of the fields, although they also make a small amount of olive oil. 

The first vertical vineyard, from 1947, constituting about 1.5 hectares, still exists, and the 75+ year old vines are used mostly for their Port wines. In addition, about 82% of their vineyards are now vertically planted, which permits a greater density, deeper roots, better aeration of the vines, and improved protection to the soil from erosion. 

Starting in 2015, the vineyards were made organic, all of them becoming certified organic in 2020. Thus, all of their estate wines are made from organic grapes. 

The estate is also located on the border between the Baixo and Cima Corgo sub-regions of the Douro. Due to the climate in this position, the grapes generally lead to wines which tend to be fresher and more elegant, with good acidity. In addition, as the estate is on the right bank of the Douro, most of the vineyards face south, helping to ensure the grapes have high concentration.

The estate also has a north facing vineyard, the Whistle Vineyard, so-named because the wind in this section seems to whistle. It's located at an altitude of about 300 meters and was just replanted this year. It receives less sun, and the lesser temperatures lead to more acidity and fruitiness. 

The lower vineyard, the Vinha do Rio (River Vineyard), is at an altitude of about 170 meters, and used primarily to produce Port wines and the Margem label. "Margem," which means "margin," was so-named as it was the closest vineyard to the river. The vineyard faces the south and west, which leads to riper grapes. These low vineyards are generally the first to be harvested each year. 

There are plenty of forests on the estate, including some land which was once planted with vineyards. After the devastation caused by phylloxera, some of the vineyards weren't replanted and forest was allowed to grow over the land. This forest helps the biodiversity of the estate, which assists in sustainability, an important aspect of the philosophy of the owners. The company states that "zero" waste is their objective.

The ruins of an old building, sitting in the middle of a vineyard. At some point in the future, maybe they will renovate and rebuild this building.

This is an insect house, which is intended to appeal to the type of insects which consume the bad insects, which could harm the vines. Also on the property are bat houses, which are also used to consume the bad insects. In addition, they have bee hives, as they are good pollinators, and they harvest a bit of honey too. Wild boars are an issue, and can damage the vineyards, and some hunting is allowed. They might then end up in a traditional boar stew.  

There are also five water springs, called "minas" in Portuguese, on the estate, and above you can see one of those springs. These springs help to keep the vineyards cooler. 

I was told that 2023 had been a good harvest, a sentiment repeated by other wineries, although there's a question whether or not it was good enough to be declared a Vintage. 

After visiting a few of their vineyards, we then toured the winery. The current winemaker and agricultural manager of Quinta dos Murças is Lourenço Charters (who also occupies those same positions at Quinta do Ameal). On the left side are some grape presses, and on the right are refrigerated, fermentation tanks. 

To ferment their Assobio line of wines (non-estate), there are about 20 epoxy-lined concrete tanks and 18 stainless steel vats. The photo show two, tulip-shaped natural concrete tanks, which are used primarily for maturation of their Minas wines. 

The concrete tanks are located on the right side, each holding about 33,000 liters, and the inside of each tank is lined to prevent oxidation.

All of the estate wines and Port wines of Murças are fermented in traditional, granite lagares, with natural yeast. The winery has 8 lagares, and usually five people work in each lagare, trodding grapes by foot from about 8pm-Midnight. This process is supposed to yield fine, silky tannins as it's a more gentle process on the grapes. These lagares were initially constructed back in 1955, but were renovated in 2010. Today, few wineries in the Douro still use lagares, and if they do, it's often only for a limited amount of their wines. Murças is one of the only wineries where all of their estate wines are fermented in this traditional manner. 

The winery purchased an amphora in 2017, and are using it to produce a white wine this year.

The winery has about 300 French oak barrels, of various sizes, from 225 liters to 8500 liters, which are primarily sourced from Esporão. The darker barrels generally hold Port wines. 

 

Finally, we ended our visit with a tasting of several estate wines and a Port. We also got to chat more with Silvia, who evidenced her clear passion for the Douro and Port wine. She mentioned that in her family, everyone has birth year Ports put aside for them. For Silvia, the favorite part of wine are the "memories" it invokes. Silvia also discussed how she loved the serenity of the Douro region, and I've mentioned that aspect of the Douro before. It brings a sense of peace, and provides a deeper connection to nature, with the sounds of animals sometimes being the only break in the quietness. She also mentioned that she eats cod about three times a week, noting how there are at least 101 ways to prepare cod. 

We began our tasting with the 2021 Quinta dos Murças Minas. This is produced from a field blend of red grapes, from the Minas vineyard, which is south-facing and has five water springs. With a 12.5% ABV, the wine was fermented in the lagares and then spent about 9 months in concrete vats and used French oak. The wine has fruity aromas, and on the palate is fresh and crisp, with lots of red fruit flavors and a touch of spice. It's easy to drink, but it's not a simple wine. Silvia recommended pairing this wine with Bacalhau, fatty fish or octopus. In the U.S., this wine costs $15-$20, a good value considering it's organic, made in a traditional manner, and is delicious. 

The 2021 Quinta dos Murças Margem, is produced from a field blend, with mostly Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca. The vineyard is located close to the Douro River, is mostly south-facing, and the grapes tend to be riper and more concentrated. With a 12.5% ABV, the wine was fermented in the lagares and then spent about 9 months in used 500-liter French oak. With a darker color than the Minas, the wine presents a nose of black fruit and spicy hints. On the palate, it is more tannic, yet still restrained, with good acidity, and a complex blend of flavors including ripe plum, black cherry, and black berries, with spicy accents and a touch of balsamic. Silvia described this wine as "a teenager with a lot of energy." This wine would best pair with beef or wild game. This is available in the U.S. for about $40-$50. 

The 2017 Quinta dos Murças Reserva is produced from a field blend (including Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Sousão, Tinta Amarela, and Tinta Roriz) on some of the estate's oldest vineyards. The primary idea of this wine is to emphasize the terroir, and create an elegant wine which can age well. With a 13.5% ABV, the wine was fermented in the lagares and then spent about 18 months in used French oak. The complexity of this wine is evident from its intriguing and appealing nose, and that complexity is clear on the palate as well. This is a wine of subtle seduction, elegant and complex, alluring and delicious. The tannins are restrained, it has excellent acidity, is well-balanced, and possesses a long, lingering finish that you never want to end. A fascinating melange of flavors, including black fruits, spice, balsamic, and floral accents. Each sip brings something different to you. 

This is a wine said to pair well with comfort food, such as lamb or a stew, what Silvia might enjoy at a Sunday lunch with her family. My love for this wine continues, and I picked up three different vintages (2010, 2015 & 2016) at the winery to take home with me. This is available in the U.S. for about $40-$45. It's a superb wine and I highly recommended it! With the holidays coming, this is a wine worth the splurge, and would make an excellent gift as well. 

The tasting ended with the Quinta dos Murças 10 Year Old Tawny Port, made from a field blend including Touriga Franca, Tinta Amarela, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Roriz, and Tinto Cão. With a 19.5% ABV, the wine was fermented in the lagares and then aged in used French oak for an average of 10 years. I've previously tasted this Port and stated, it was ".., smoother and more complex, with delicious flavors of almonds, caramel, dried fruit, and a mild sweetness." At this tasting, the Port possessed a very light, translucent color with an appealing aroma. On the palate, it was smooth and complex, well-balanced and delicious, with notes of red fruits, almonds, dried fruit, caramel, figs and spice. Again, it was a winner, and I strongly recommend this Port.

Overall, Quinta dos Murças is an impressive winery, with a worthy winemaking philosophy. The estate wines are certified organic and they are produced in a very traditional manner, including the grapes being trod by foot in the lagares. The vineyards, most on steep slopes, are impressive and the areas is a place of beauty and quietude. Their wines are excellent, and delicious, and well worth seeking out. I'm so happy that I had the opportunity to visit Quinta dos Murças.

Cantina de Ventozelo: Restaurante & Wine Bar

As I mentioned in a previous post, we stayed in the Douro region for three nights at the Quinta de Ventozelo. On one of those nights, we dined at their restaurant, the Cantina de Ventozelo, and on another night, we ate at their wine bar. We also enjoyed breakfast there each morning. The spot where the restaurant now stands once was used to feed the farm workers on the estate. Atop a hill, it has great views of the Douro and the Ventozelo vineyards, especially if you sit on the patio. 

The outside patio, where we enjoyed our breakfast in the mornings, and where I previously mentioned two cats walked around, seeking food. 

The interior of the restaurant is elegant, with a rustic flair. 

During our dinner, we enjoyed a few wines from Quinta de Ventozelo. The 2022 Viosinho had more savory notes, accented with some citrus, and a touch of bitterness. Interesting and tasty. The 2021 Rabigato was delicious, being dry, crisp and full of citrus and tropical fruit flavors with a streak of minerality. The 2020 Ventozelo Reserva Tinto was a blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Alicante Bouschet and Sousão. It was bold but restrained, with silky tannins, rich red and black fruit flavors, and a touch of spice. 

The Food Menu changes frequently, dependent on what's seasonally available. In general, the menu has 6 Starters (4-12 Euros) and 7 Mains (20-27 Euros), including vegetable, seafood and meat dishes. 

We began with a Starter, the Escabeche de peixe do rio Douro (Pickled fish from the Douro river). Tender, slightly briny and tart slices of fish with a bunch of fresh and pickled veggies. 

As for Mains, the Frango do Campo Recheado, puré de batata trufado e legumes (Stuffed free-range chicken, truffle mashed potatoes and vegetables) was delicious, with a crispy exterior, and moist, tender chicken, which appeared to be stuffed with possibly some type of pork. The potatoes were creamy, with a rich truffle taste.

The Bacalhau à Zé do Pipo (“Zé do Pipo” cod fish, potato purée and mayonnaise) was also quite tasty, with flaky, salty pieces of cod, a creamy potato puree and onion rings. 

For dessert, we shared the Bolo Borrachão e gelado de vinho do Porto (Cake “Borrachão” with Port wine ice cream). An excellent mix of flavors and textures, with the rich taste of Port. With dessert, I enjoyed a glass of the Dalva 20 Year Old Dry White Port. Complex, relatively dry, with flavors of dried fruits, floral notes, honey and almonds. An excellent wine! More people need to understand the joys of Aged White Port.

The Wine Bar has a different, more casual menu, with Finger Food, Charcuterie/Cheese Boards, Salads and Sandwiches. Everything costs less than 20 Euros, with half the menu costing less than 10 Euros. In the wine bar, there is a large wine chiller, where you can see many of their wines, available by the glass or bottle. It was a relatively quiet area too, and when we dined there, we were the only diners.

We began with the Folar de Vila Real, a traditional charcuterie cake from Vila Real, which is basically bread with pieces of pork baked into it. What's not to enjoy? This is apparently a traditional Easter bread in Portugal, and different regions make their own variations. Although they are generally savory, there are sweet versions as well.  

The Queijo de ovelha e presunto was a sheep cheese & cured ham sandwich, with a hearty rustic bread, creamy cheese, and silky, salty ham. Very tasty. 

The sandwich was accompanied with Batata rústica, French fries. Great, crispy taste with a fluffy interior. 

To accompany these dishes, we thoroughly enjoyed two more Quinta de Ventozelo wines. The 2020 Loci was a blend of 50% Tinta Amarela, 20% Tinta Roriz, 10 % Touriga Nacional, 10% Sousão, and 10% Tinto Cão. The wine was vinified in lagares, and aged in used French oak for about 12 months, and then aged for another 8 months in the bottle. Silky and elegant, with well-balanced and complex flavors, including ripe plum, black berry and raspberry, with hints of spice. A lengthy, pleasing finish with restrained tannins and good acidity. Delicious and compelling.

The 2015 Essência de Ventozelo is a blend of Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca, which was vilified in stainless steel and aged for 18 months in French oak (50% new/50% used). This was a bigger, bolder wine, with more prominent tannins, rich black fruit flavors, more intense spice notes, including some vanilla, and a long, lingering finish.  

Ventozelo Hotel: Staying in the Douro

During my recent trip to Portugal, we stayed in the Douro region for three nights at the Quinta de Ventozelo, located in Ervedosa do Douro, on the left bank of the Douro River. The property includes various hotel rooms (in different buildings), a winery, vineyards, a museum, garden, wine shop, restaurant and more.  It was a very pleasant experience and I'd stay there again if I ever return to the Douro. 

The vineyards of Quinta de Ventozelo were once managed by Cistercian monks, and the first historical mention of Ventozelo is from 1288. Around 1500, the land was transferred to the hidalgos of Casa do Poço. Over the centuries, ownership has changed multiple times, and in 2014, it was acquired by the Gran Cruz group, which is now known as Granvinhos. 

The hotel has 29 rooms, located in several different buildings, and we stayed in the Casa dos Cardanhos, in a building which was once housed temporary farmworkers, but which now has seven double superior rooms. Each room has a private porch, that looks over the Douro River. The rooms were comfortable and clean, and the only caveat would be that to reach the reception and the restaurant, you need to walk up a cobblestone hill, so if you have difficulty in walking, that might be an issue.   

This is a view from a distance of the building where we stayed. We were in the room at the end of the left side. 

Gorgeous views of the Douro and some of the Ventozelo vineyards. It was cloudy or raining much of the time we were there. 

The Garden of Aromas. A small garden with various plants and trees, all with their own aromatic profiles. It's located across from the Reception building. 

This is a front view of the restaurant.

At one end of the restaurant patio is this fire pit, which was lit every night. 

A couple cats that wandered the property. During breakfast, both cats walked around the patio, hoping some of the diners might give them some food. And the cats were successful in receiving some treats.

The Centro Interpretativo de Ventozelo is a small museum, located next to the garden, which discusses the estate and the Douro region.