Rather than address those restaurants which I believe should have received Michelin recognition, or deserved a Star rather than a mere Recommendation, I want to address another issue which has been raised during discussions about the Michelin Guide in Boston.
Boring Restaurants!
Some claim that Boston has too many boring restaurants, that innovation doesn't receive sufficient attention. Is that true? And if it's true, what is the reason for those boring restaurants? And if so, how can we change that situation?
Some claim that Boston has too many boring restaurants, that innovation doesn't receive sufficient attention. Is that true? And if it's true, what is the reason for those boring restaurants? And if so, how can we change that situation?
First, we can all agree that operating a restaurant is a significant challenge, especially in these economic times, when finding good help is difficulty, the prices of food ingredients are high, rents are out of control, and liquor license prices can also be very high. Most restaurants operate on slim margins, especially the small, independent spots. So, it can be difficult to run a creative and innovative restaurant if you can't attract sufficient customers.
And creativity and innovation is often resisted by boring customers. Too many people eat only a limited variety of meat and seafoods. Too many people are unwilling to try different cuisines, or different dishes, that are outside their normal intake or comfort level. For example, there are people who refuse to dine at an Italian restaurant unless it has chicken parmigiana on the menu. I've seen Italian restaurants cave into these customers, adding the dish to their menu, so they won't lose the business.
A hundred years ago or so, Americans were more adventurous with their palates but that has been changing over time. We need to return to that prior time, to be more adventurous in our palates, being open to experience new foods. If we do, then maybe more creative restaurants can flourish rather than struggle.
Consider that Americans primarily eat three animals: cows, pigs, and chickens. Approximately 10 billion animals are slaughtered in the U.S. annually, and almost 9 billion of them are chickens. Most Americans restrict their consumption to such a limited choice. Instead of chicken, why not expand your palate to include duck, quail, goose, squab, pheasant, and guinea hens? As for other meats, go beyond beef and pork, and try animals such as bison, elk, venison, rabbit, wild boar, lamb, goat, or go even more exotic with items like kangaroo, snake, yak, llama, and more. Did you know that the USDA has stated that Rabbit is the most nutritious meat? At the very least, you should seek out more heritage and special breeds of cows and pigs, from Wagyu cattle to Mangalitsa pigs.
As for seafood, most of it consumed by Americans is limited to 10 different types, including Shrimp, Salmon, Tuna, Tilapia, Alaska Pollock, Pangasius, Cod, Crab, Catfish, and Clams. With our proximity to the coast and access to the vast bounty of the sea, our seafood consumption should range much wider. We have so many other options available to us. Why not venture out to consume more mussels, dogfish, sardines, mackerel, fluke, and much more?
Let's also consider restaurant drink programs. Too many people demand to find California Chardonnay on a restaurant wine list. By catering to this demand, and other similar ones, wine lists can become very boring. Fortunately, there some courageous restaurants, such as A Tavola and Krasi, which have taken a bold stance, restricting their wines to a single country, the country of their chosen cuisine. Would you expect to find a Neapolitan pizza on the menu at a Sushi restaurant? No. Would you expect to find a cheeseburger on the menu of a Spanish tapas restaurant? No. In a similar vein, diners shouldn't expect that a restaurant, concentrating on a specific cuisine, will carry wines from all regions of the world. Diners need to be more adventurous, willing to try different wines from the popular Chardonnay, Cabernet or Sauvignon Blanc.
Why have Americans become so boring with their food choices? Primarily, it's a psychological issue, and rarely a taste issue. Customers "think" they won't like a meat, seafood, or wine, even though they have not tasted it. They choose to stick with the familiar rather than take a risk. They get into a rut, always ordering the same dish at specific types of restaurants. However, by doing so, they compel some restaurants to conform to their boring tastes, and the industry overall suffers. Restaurants would like to take more chances, but it needs to be financially viable. And with too many boring customers, the risk isn't often worth it.
Stop being so boring, and let your palate take an adventure. Let more Boston restaurants embrace creativity and innovation!
