Thursday, December 5, 2024

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) With Christmas Eve and Christmas just around the corner, a variety of Boston-area restaurants are embracing the festive spirit and celebrating the holidays with special menus and more. Here are some of holiday offerings: 

Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse celebrates an Italian Christmas Eve tradition, the annual Feast of the Seven Fishes on Tuesday, December 24th, from 4pm – 10pm at all Massachusetts locations. Menu highlights include Oysters Rockefeller, Nantucket Bay Scallops, East Coast Halibut, Lobster, Osetra Caviar, Crab and more. The history of the tradition stems from honoring the day before a religious holiday, when no meat is served, and the dishes all represent family favorites from Chef/Owner Steve DiFillippo. The seven fishes represent the seven Catholic Sacraments, days of the week, number of pilgrimage churches in Rome and the seven gifts of the Holy Spirit. The full dinner menu is also available. The Feast of the Seven Fishes is available for $85 per person, excluding taxes and gratuity. Davio’s is closed on Christmas Day and December 26th. Reservations are recommended and can be made by calling or by visiting Davio's website and selecting your desired location. 

Matria Boston, the Northern Italian inspired steakhouse at InterContinental Boston, will host a traditional Italian American celebration, Feast of the Seven Fishes on Christmas Eve, Tuesday, December 24th, from 4:30pm – 10pm. Complete with a Seafood Tower ($170) that includes Maine lobster, Wellfleet oysters, shrimp, stone crab claws, and dipping sauces like lemon aioli, cocktail sauce, and mignonette. Guests can choose from the Ricciola Crudo ($24), lemon EVOO, balsamic pearls, micro basil and pistachio; “Liguria” Cloppino ($58), lobster, bronzini, Atlantic Salmon, mussels, clams, shrimp, salsa verde, lemon aioli, and focaccia. Call (617) 217-5151 to make reservations.

Back Bay steakhouse Abe & Louie’s will be dishing out a quintet of specials on Christmas Eve. To start, there are roasted East Coast oysters with lemon-butter sauce ($24) and brie en croûte with red currant compote ($18). For a taste of tradition, opt for a 14-ounce prime rib with a twice baked potato, horseradish cream and au jus ($75). Pescatarians can get their fix with pan-roasted branzino with melted leeks, escarole and Meyer lemon beurre blanc ($ 45). The dessert feature is a gingerbread yule log with Chantilly whipped cream ($15). Call (617) 536-6300 for Reservations.

Atlantic Fish Co. will feature their full menu of seafood classics in addition to some holiday features on Christmas Eve. Start with clams casino with smoked bacon, bell pepper and breadcrumbs ($20) or cauliflower soup with herbed croutons ($14). The duo of mains is bouillabaisse with lobster, shrimp, scallops, mussels, clams, cod and saffron rouille in a tomato-fennel broth ($48) as well as Nantucket Bay scallops with Japanese sweet potato, roasted mushrooms and champagne beurre blanc ($45). Satiate your sweet tooth with a gingerbread yule log with Chantilly whipped cream ($15). Call (617) 267-4000 for Reservations.

In Wayland, Coach Grill will feature five specials on Christmas Eve. For appetizers, there is lobster bisque with crème fraiche ($17) and a baby spinach salad with goat cheese, portobello and roasted peppers ($17). For entrees, there’s an 18-ounce bone-in NY strip with roasted asparagus and bone marrow butter ($85) as well as herb-crusted Chilean sea bass with butternut squash puree and black truffle sauce ($47). For dessert, indulge in a gingerbread yule log with Chantilly whipped cream ($15). Call (508) 358-5900 for Reservations. 

Located on the rooftop at The Newbury Boston, Contessa Boston brings the elegance of Northern Italy to Boston and will be celebrating Christmas with an exclusive Christmas Day menu ($195 per person), available on Wednesday, December 25, served family-style with antipasti to start, choose from Burrata with Caviar; Carciofi salad of shaved artichokes, crushed almonds, parmigiano, and lemon; Chianina Beef Carpaccio alla Piemontese; Primi, enjoy the Spicy Lobster Rigatoni or Fettuccine Bolognese; Secondi, Prime Rib Grilled or Mediterranean Branzino; Contorni, Grilled Mushrooms or Whipped Potatoes. End with dessert for the table, Nutella Fudge Cake Panettone. Call (617) 741-3404 for Reservations. 

2) The Tavistock Restaurant Collection portfolio will be open on New Year’s Eve and Day serving their full menus enhanced with holiday-inspired à la carte specials: 

Back Bay steakhouse Abe & Louie’s will be dishing out a quintet of specials to close out 2024 and welcome 2025 on a high note. To start, there are East Coast oysters with crème fraiche and Ossetra caviar ($79) as well as duck confit and foie gras mousse with brioche, friseé, tangerine, pistachio and port wine ($32). For entrees, there is braised osso buco with red wine, goat cheese polenta and gremolata ($55) in addition to lobster thermidor with roasted mushrooms, gruyère and cognac ($95). The dessert feature is profiteroles with chocolate ganache and vanilla bean ice cream ($15). Reservations are available from 11am-12am on December 31 and 11am-9pm on January 1. Call (617) 536-6300 for Reservations. 

Atlantic Fish Co. will feature their full menu of seafood classics in addition to some special features on both New Year’s Eve and Day. To start, there are deviled eggs with Venezia Ossetra caviar and lemon crème fraiche ($35) as well as scallop crudo with cucumber, radish, yuzu and wasabi tobiko ($22). The main course is a land-and-sea feature with an 8oz filet mignon, lobster, asparagus and wild mushrooms ($79). For something sweet, opt for a chocolate trifle with brownie crumble, whipped cream and bourbon chocolate sauce ($15). Reservations are available from 11am-12am on December 31 and 11am-9pm on January 1. Call (617) 267-4000 for Reservations.

In Wayland, Coach Grill will open their doors early to bid adieu to 2024 and celebrate the arrival of 2025. Starters include lobster bisque with crème fraiche ($17) in addition to an apple and fennel salad with spiced walnuts, parmesan and lemon vinaigrette ($16). There is a duo of specialty entrees: a 16oz bone-in filet with green peppercorn sauce served with a twice-baked potato ($110) and the herb-crusted cod with fingerling potatoes, roasted Brussels sprouts and garlic butter ($42). Leave room for dessert, an espresso crème brûlée with fresh berries and biscotti ($15). Reservations are available from 3-10pm on December 31 and 3-9pm on January 1. Call (508) 358-5900 for Reservations.

3) Prezza, in the North End, is preparing for the holiday season with new specials for you and your loved ones to enjoy. Prezza will be serving lunch on December 6th, 13th, and 20th, starting at 12pm, and reservations are available to book online now. The Friday lunch specials include the following:

Chicken Cutlet Milanese, arugula, tomato, cucumber, olive oil, lemon, Pecorino $28
Grilled Shrimp, fingerling potato, broccoli rabe $28
Gemelli, meatballs, plum tomato sauce $24
Wagyu Burger, truffle cheese, bacon, pickled onion, aioli, brioche bun, parmesan fries $25

Prezza will also be serving the ‘Feast of Seven Fishes’ every Friday, from 12pm-10pm, throughout the month of December, available a la carte. The seven dishes include:

Fluke Crudo, Blood Orange, Fennel, Citrus Vinaigrette, Calabrian Chiles $22
Fried Smelts, Lemon Caper Aioli $20
Fried Clams, Cherry Pepper Aioli $26
Salted Cod Cake Pepperonata, Frisee Salad, Citrus Vinaigrette $22
White Anchovy Crostini, Garlic, Wine, Cherry Tomatoes, Olive Tapenade $20
Octopus ‘Carpaccio’, Citrus Vinaigrette, Baby Arugula, Calabrian Chiles, Salsa Verde $24
Spaghetti, Bay Scallops, Garlic, White Wine, Parsley, Lemon $38

4) XOXO Sushi Bar will ring in its first New Year, on Tuesday, December 31, from 5pm-1am, in Chestnut Hill by dazzling diners with lavish multi-course jukusei omakase New Year’s Eve tasting menus. Utilizing XOXO’s advanced in-house dry-ager and jukusei technique – “aging” in Japanese, where fish used in sushi is salted or soaked in vinegar then matured for several days – Chef Kegan Stritchko has designed a pair of menus that feature local and rare sea treasures designed with luxe and intriguing flavor profiles.

In the abbreviated jukusei omakase offering, there are 11 courses ($150 per guest): an Island Creek oyster with leche de tigre and dill; hirame usuzukuri with yuzu dashi, candied quinoa and lemon zest; madai and shima aji nigiri; chef’s choice of five pieces of sashimi; hiramasa and Ora King salmon nigiri; chawanmushi with savory egg custard, snow grab and ikura; bluefin tuna and akamutsu nigiri; a negitoro handroll with bluefin tuna belly, scallion and miso; grilled langoustine with miso butter, kimchi and chili oil; A5 wagyu beef tartare with black garlic, caviar and taro root; and a dessert of Thai chili chocolate ice cream with chocolate ganache and cranberry gel. Guests can opt for an expanded menu with five additional courses, bringing the grand experience to 16 courses ($250 per person): a personal 1oz jar of caviar paired with purple potato chips; Hokkaido uni nigiri; king crab nigiri; dry aged otoro; and A5 wagyu ribeye carpaccio with caviar, lemon miso butter and negidare.

For an additional infusion of New Year’s Eve glitz, there is a champagne and caviar tasting ($125 per guest) complete with 1oz of Polish caviar with a personal-sized bottle of A. Margaine champagne.

Reservations are required via Resy. The New Year’s Eve feature menus can be found on XOXO Sushi Bar’s website

Monday, December 2, 2024

Rant: During The Holidays, Drink Bubbly With Food!

"You don't need to be a sommelier as sparkling wine pairs with everything."
--Marcello Lunelli

During the holiday season, many people will purchase Champagne or other types of Sparkling Wine, from Prosecco to Cava, Franciacorta to Crémant. However, when do you drink that bubbly? For most people, it's merely an apertif or for a celebratory toast. Yes, it's excellent on these occasions but it can be so much more. 

Many people don't realize that Sparkling Wine also pairs very well with a wide variety of foods, and can be consumed throughout the course of a meal, from appetizer to dessert. When's the last time you enjoyed Sparkling Wine during your dinner? I suspect many people do not commonly enjoy it with their food. At best, it's most common to have Mimosas, bubbly and orange juice, for breakfast or brunch, but the bubbly isn't enjoyed on its own. 

Even restaurant sommeliers rarely recommend drinking Sparkling Wine with your dinner. And that is a mistake. Sure, there are plenty of wines that pair well with food, but why omit Sparkling Wine from the discussion? When's the last time a sommelier suggested that you drink Sparkling Wine throughout the course of your dinner? I can't recall the last dinner I attended where a sommelier recommended a Sparkling Wine with my appetizers or entree.

Wine lovers need to get over their misconception that Sparkling Wine is mainly an aperitif or celebratory wine. They need to take the chance and drink it with whatever they choose to eat, from seafood to steak, pasta to Chinese food. It may be one of the most versatile wines when it comes to food pairings, and it can be so delicious. 

When I visited the Champagne region, I experience Champagne paired with nearly all of my food courses, for both lunch and dinner. I found Champagne to pair well with so many different dishes and you really can't go wrong selecting it for your meal. No matter what the cuisine, Champagne would be a fine accompaniment and it doesn't have to be paired only with high-end cuisine. Why not enjoy Champagne with pizza? Or tacos? Or just a bag of salty potato chips?

Champagne and other Sparkling Wines are produced in a variety of styles, in different sweetness levels, and its diversity assists in making it friendly with a variety of cuisines. Rosé bubbly is one of my favorite styles, and I've found it great with many different foods. I urge you to experiment with food pairings. Grab a bottle of Sparkling Wine and drink it with whatever you're eating. You'll be surprised at how good it tastes with your food. And if you have guests, they'll think you're a wine genius for pairing bubbly with all the dishes.

Thursday, November 28, 2024

Giving Thanks on Thanksgiving

Today, all across America, many of us will celebrate Thanksgiving. This year is an excellent time to remember the deeper meaning of the day. Beyond the turkey and pecan pie, the stuffing and cranberry sauce, the doughnuts and mashed potatoes, Thanksgiving is a day for reflection upon our lives, to ponder and be thankful for all of the positive things in our lives. 

We need to appreciate the goodness in our lives, to be happy with everything we have (and I don't mean in a material sense). No matter what troubles or adversities we might face in our lives, I am absolutely sure there is also much to bring us joy.

That is especially true during these troubling times. We need to embrace the positivity that we do possess, rather than wallow in despair. We must see hope in the future, and we must cherish the good in our lives. Our focus today, and actually how it should be every day, should be on the positive aspects of our lives. 

Savoring the positive in our lives can brighten the darker parts of our lives, and place everything in perspective. Complaining and criticizing often accomplishes little and instead we should concentrate on solutions. We can make our lives better if we truly desire to do so. It may take time and effort, but we can accomplish much with a positive mindset.

I am thankful for many other things in my life, including family, friends, health, and much more. I am thankful for all my blog readers. It would take too long to list every single thing I am thankful for here, but I will take the time to reflect upon all of them today. I will try not to dwell on the negative elements in my life. It will hopefully be a day of appreciation and reflection, of hope and a brighter future.

I fervently hope that everyone else can embrace the positive, rather than dwelling on the negative. Share your positive feelings with your family and friends. Tell them that you love them, thank them for being in your life. You might not be able to see them in person this year, but see them on the computer, or talk to them on the phone. You'll never regret sharing your feelings with your loved ones.

I'm going to enjoy a fine of drinking and eating, with a small family group. I'll open a couple some special wines, enjoy some amazing food, and savor the day. And I'll spend time remembering everything I should be thankful for in my life. I hope my readers do the same.

Monday, November 25, 2024

Rant: Without Proper Hospitality, A Restaurant Will Fail

"Hospitality is the virtue of a great soul that cares for the whole universe through the ties of humanity."
--Chevalier Louis de Jaucourt in Encyclopédie, ou dictionnaire raisonné des sciences, des arts et des métiers

In short, hospitality is the warm, friendly reception and treatment of your guests. It's important in many areas, including restaurants, but it doesn't seem everyone understands its vital role. That failure can have a negative impact on a restaurant's bottomline so restaurant owners, and their employees, need to ensure that hospitality is a crucial element of their operations. It may sound simple, but then why are there otherwise good restaurants which fail in this regard?

The concept of hospitality was front and center in my mind last week as I attended a preview of Kaia, a new Greek restaurant in Boston's South End. Kaia is under the umbrella of Xenia Greek Hospitality, a restaurant group which also owns the excellent Krasi Meze + WineHecateBar Vlaha, and Greco truly Greek. I'm a huge fan of their restaurants, and expect Kaia will be another winner. The food and drink at their restaurants excels but there's another significant element which elevates your dining experience at these spots. 

The Xenia website states: "At Xenia Greek Hospitality, we are inspired by the ancient Greek concept which is built on guest-friendship. Today, we often forget how important not only the food being served is, but most importantly how it is being served. With a single visit to any of our concepts, you can experience the highest level of hospitality, with care and attention to all our guests, so you feel welcomed in our home." 

Some restaurants only give lip service to the concept of hospitality, but the Xenia group truly embraces its spirit and practice. I have met many of the people behind the Xenia group, such as Stefanos Ougrinis, Demetri Tsolakis, Natasha Breshinsky, Brendan Pelley, Evan Turner, and Chris Marcin. And each and every one of them has been an exemplar of hospitality. In addition, they are truly sincere in their hospitality. It's not merely a front, but a concept they embrace heart and soul. They pass on their belief in hospitality to their employees, and it's evident as well at all of their restaurants. The level of hospitality at the Xenia restaurants is a significant reason for their success. 

People dine out not just for good food and drink, but also for the experience. They want to be treated well, as a beloved guest, so if the hospitality is lacking, their experience suffers. And they won't want to repeat such a failed experience. Have your chef make the best food possible, have your sommelier compile a killer wine list, have your bartender concoct an awesome cocktail program, but without the element of hospitality, the experience becomes a failure.

When I consider my favorite restaurants, the commonality of them is that they provide excellent hospitality. Sure, I love the food and drink at these restaurants, but without proper hospitality, they wouldn't be considered my favorites. 

How important is the hospitality of a restaurant to you?

Thursday, November 21, 2024

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) This December, Santa Claus is coming to town – particularly the North End and Wayland – to host holiday brunches for festive families at Coach Grill (December 7) and Joe’s Waterfront (December 15).

While kiddies patiently await the arrival of their honored guest with cookie decorating, guardians can settle in for a leisurely brunch. In addition to serving their signature brunch menus, the kitchens will be whipping up adult-friendly breakfast delights for the occasion like stuffed crêpes ($14) with housemade Chantilly cream and fresh strawberries; bananas foster French toast ($18) with cream cheese frosting and maple syrup; Florentine eggs benedict ($20) with sauteed spinach, hollandaise and breakfast potatoes; and a Maine lobster omelet ($28) with chives, breakfast potatoes and toast. For the little ones, there are tree-shaped Christmas chip pancakes ($14) and a grilled chicken quesadilla ($11).

After capturing the perfect IG-worthy snap with your little ones and Mr. Claus, treat yourself to something sweet like the specialty peppermint ice cream pie ($12) in a cookie crust. There also are themed adult libations like the Bahh Humbug with Basil Hayden bourbon, housemade hot chocolate and mini marshmallows as well as kid-approved mocktails like Grinch Punch with lime sorbet, green punch, Sprite and a red sugar rim. While supplies last, grab a keepsake ornament as you exit your morning in the North Pole.

WHEN: Coach Grill: Saturday, December 7, 11am-2pm; Joe’s Waterfront: Sunday, December 15, 10am-1pm
COST: Complimentary admission. Special available at à la carte pricing.
Coach Grill: Reservations are recommended via OpenTable
Joe’s Waterfront: Reservations are recommended via OpenTable

2) MAZÍ Food Group (Gigi, Ilona, Kava Neo-Taverna) has debuted the newest addition in its growing restaurant collection: Desnuda Cocina & Bar. Located in the famed 647 Tremont Street space, the bilevel Desnuda Cocina & Bar brings two distinct concepts to the South End with its lower-level sound bar and an epicurean experience featuring bold Latin and Asian flavors.

Venturing downstairs to the sound bar – a concept created in Japan in the 1950s – the walls are lined with vertical wood panels where mood lighting peeks through the slats. Inside the hideaway, there is an expansive bar in addition to more intimate seating anchored by giraffe-print banquettes and a half-moon booth that sits beneath a glittering spherical light fixture. The backbar displays Desnuda’s collection of retro vinyl records, the heartbeat of the sultry and vibrant sound bar, that will be amplified over a customized vinyl sound system. The immersive, eclectic urban music experience will be curated with themed nights, guest deejays and mixologist-selected playlists complemented by deliciously complex cocktails and a late-night menu of small plates available after 10:00pm.

Upstairs, MAZÍ Food Group’s executive chef Jesus Preciado has reimagined a menu rooted in core Latin-Asian tastes and textures. With a passion for sourcing locally, Chef Preciado’s menu of ceviches, baos and proteins are intended to be ordered in multiples to encourage a social dining experience. Highlights from the menu include the catch-of-the-day ceviche clasico with leche de tigre, habanero, corn, chancha, sweet potato, red onions and cilantro; pork belly bao bun with braised pork belly, cucumber, pickled vegetables and soy reduction; acevichado roll, tempura white fish, tuna, salsa acevichada, sweet potato puree and togarashi; aji de gallina, shredded chicken, huancaina sauce, heavy cream, parmesan, olive aioli, rice, potato and boiled eggs; and arroz con pato, duck leg confit, aborio rice, vegetables and cilantro sauce.

On the liquid side, Desnuda Cocina & Bar features a beverage program that mixes timeless techniques with progressive twists while showcasing globally-represented wines and spirits including a collection of tequilas and mezcals as well as Japanese whiskys, gins and sakes. Standouts are Beet the Heat with spicy pisco, yuzu liqueur, beet syrup and lemon as well as Amarillo Passion with tequila, yuzu liqueur, aji amarillo, passionfruit syrup and lime.

Desnuda Cocina & Bar is open daily beginning at 4:00pm. In the coming weeks, Desnuda Cocina & Bar plans to reprise the epic weekend brunch party from the location’s yesteryears.

3) BOSA Coastal Italian, in Haverhill, has recently launched Brunch with an Italian flair and unique flavors when it comes to classic and contemporary dishes on Saturdays and Sundays, from 11am-3pm.

Enjoying starters like Burrata, olive oil, arugula, vincotto, sesame crunch, parmesan frico, confit tomato, maldon salt; Italian Wedding Soup, rich chicken brodo, sofrito, spinach, fregula, petite meatballs, parmesan, even add an egg. For main dishes, choose from unique brunch staples like the Banana Bread French Toast, sweet ricotta filling, fig jam, berries, maple syrup, cannoli crumbs, Chantilly cream; the Breakfast Burger, cheddar, pancetta, sunny egg, baby lettuce, tomato, Calabrian chili aioli; or the Brunch Pizza, chorizo, potatoes, melted leeks, spinach, cheddar, mozzarella, sunny egg; Snack on a Panuozzo Sandwich, a Neapolitan-style Italian sandwich made with pizza dough, and BOSA uses Sal’s Pizza’s own dough, made fresh every day, like the Ham & Cheese, prosciutto cotto, cheddar, arugula, scrambled eggs, chili mayo, scallions. For those looking for a classic favorite can nosh on Scrambled Eggs & Home Fries, complete with eggs and cheddar.

BOSA’s brunch cocktails include the BOSA Mimosa, Prosecco, orange juice, Bauchant Orange Liqueur; Gran Espresso, vanilla bean induced White Squall Vodka, Borghetti Coffee Liqueur, espresso. There are also shareable drinks like the Spicy Sophia (Loren), Corvus Grilled Pineapple Vodka, lime juice, tropical sour mix, spice chipotle simple syrup, tajin spiced rim, served in a whole pineapple; Mimosa Flight, one bottle of Prosecco, black cherry purée, white peach purée, and blood orange purée.

To make reservations visit www.bosaitalian.com.