Crispy fried chicken atop a crisp, hot waffle. You might want to top it with butter, syrup, or hot sauce. It's a good choice for breakfast, lunch, dinner or a late-night snack. Delicious comfort food and some restaurants have put their own spin on this classic dish. I'm a huge fan of fried chicken & waffles, so it's only natural I decided to research its history.
What's the origin of Fried Chicken & Waffles?
Fried chicken was probably first known in the U.S. in the early 19th century while waffles extend back to the first half of the 17th century. A combination of Chicken and Waffles was first introduced in the 17th century, in Pennsylvania Dutch country, although the chicken wasn't fried, but was instead more of a pulled chicken in gravy.
The most commonly cited legend of the invention of Fried Chicken and Waffles was that it was created in 1938 at the Wells Supper Club in Harlem, New York. Wells was a famed spot for jazz musicians, who often desired to eat something after their gigs. As it was too late for dinner, and too early for breakfast, they ended up dining on fried chicken and waffles, a combo of dinner and breakfast. This dish quickly became very popular in Harlem, with other restaurants serving the dish as well.
The most commonly cited legend of the invention of Fried Chicken and Waffles was that it was created in 1938 at the Wells Supper Club in Harlem, New York. Wells was a famed spot for jazz musicians, who often desired to eat something after their gigs. As it was too late for dinner, and too early for breakfast, they ended up dining on fried chicken and waffles, a combo of dinner and breakfast. This dish quickly became very popular in Harlem, with other restaurants serving the dish as well.
However, this legend isn't true. Wells Supper Club didn't invent Fried Chicken & Waffles, although they may have played a role in helping to promote it. Documentary evidence exists of pairings of fried chicken and waffles going back to at least 1870, with other newspaper articles claiming it existed sometime prior to the Civil War. A number of the early newspaper references, prior to 1920, claimed that it was a dish of Southern origins. And it's probably not surprising that it was also a popular dish in Pennsylvania.
There's an obstacle to pursuing the origins of fried chicken and waffles as the phrase "chicken and waffles" is somewhat generic, and doesn't differentiate between the various types of chicken preparation, such as the pulled chicken & gravy or broiled chicken. So, for this article, I'm concentrating only on the definitive mentions of "fried chicken & waffles" and not the more generic mentions of "chicken & waffles."
The first few mentions of fried chicken & waffles were in fictional stories in various magazines and newspapers. The first reference was in Peterson’s Magazine, November 1870, in a short tale which briefly mentioned, “... he had a keen remembrance of her fried chicken and waffles.” This is 58 years prior to its alleged invention by Wells Supper Club.
There was another short story in the Cincinnati Weekly Times (OH), March 14, 1878, which mentioned, “... the hostess gave him fried chicken, waffles, honey, Charlotte Russe, pound cake, and coffee with cream.” The Osage Mission Journal (KS), August 7, 1878, also had what appears to be a short story about an inn in West Virginia where a man ordered a private supper. “There was part of a haunch of venison cooked with wine and jelly, and flanked with stakes (sic) done to a turn; there were boiled and fried chickens, waffles, white flakey biscuits and hot corn bread, while the fragrant coffee sent forth its delicious steam.
And the Mineral Point Weekly Tribune (WI), October 13, 1881, also presented another apparent short story which stated,“He had sat down to daily suppers of fried chickens and waffles, until his stomach began to rebel, and to insist on rest or a change of diet.”
The Charlotte Democrat (NC), August 4, 1882, discussed the doctor who tended to Andrew Jackson, and noted that the doctor “... left to partake of a supper of fried chicken, waffles, tea and other creature comforts,…”
It was apparently popular in Pennsylvania, as referenced in a Massachusetts newspaper. The Fall River Daily Herald (MA), October 19, 1882, wrote, “Who ever heard of a man getting a divorce from a Pennsylvania girl—one who knows the mysteries of fried chickens and waffles?” It continued, “Fried chickens and waffles and hot corn bread will drive a man to the grave soon enough, liberally partaken of, even if they do not drive him to the divorce court.”
From Pennsylvania to Kansas, the dish was known across the country. The Grenola Greeting & Chief (KS), December 26, 1885, mentioned, “The ‘quilting’ as it was called was an affair of some importance, at which the minister was always invited in time for supper; and such suppers as we used to have. There was always fried chicken and waffles, with ham and fritters, and as many kinds of preserves and pickles as the table would hold.”
Southern origins? The Saint Paul Globe (MN), May 3, 1886, in an article about the differences of Northern and Southern cooking, printed, “Miss Parloa, the famous exponent of common sense cookery, has been making a tour of the South. As a result of her investigations she declares that the women of the South are better cooks than their Northern sisters. If the lady has allowed her judgment to become prejudiced under the seductive influence of the fried chicken and waffles which form the most complete expression of Southern culinary skill, she is perhaps excusable for her evidently biased statement."
Fried Chicken & Waffles extending back to the 1840s? The Altoona Times (PA), May 1, 1888, provided what might be the oldest reference to this dish, In an article titled, “An Adventure of Judge S. Jerry Black with a Bedford Stage Driver in 1842”, the Hon. William M. Hall provided a reminiscence of the early days of Judge Jeremiah S. Black and a stage driver, Samuel Baglet. The article mentioned, “.. the grand old times of stage-coaching and the excellent meals of fried chicken and waffles and hot coffee at the wayside inn, where the arrival of the stage was the great event of the day.”
There was another short story in the Cincinnati Weekly Times (OH), March 14, 1878, which mentioned, “... the hostess gave him fried chicken, waffles, honey, Charlotte Russe, pound cake, and coffee with cream.” The Osage Mission Journal (KS), August 7, 1878, also had what appears to be a short story about an inn in West Virginia where a man ordered a private supper. “There was part of a haunch of venison cooked with wine and jelly, and flanked with stakes (sic) done to a turn; there were boiled and fried chickens, waffles, white flakey biscuits and hot corn bread, while the fragrant coffee sent forth its delicious steam.
And the Mineral Point Weekly Tribune (WI), October 13, 1881, also presented another apparent short story which stated,“He had sat down to daily suppers of fried chickens and waffles, until his stomach began to rebel, and to insist on rest or a change of diet.”
The Charlotte Democrat (NC), August 4, 1882, discussed the doctor who tended to Andrew Jackson, and noted that the doctor “... left to partake of a supper of fried chicken, waffles, tea and other creature comforts,…”
It was apparently popular in Pennsylvania, as referenced in a Massachusetts newspaper. The Fall River Daily Herald (MA), October 19, 1882, wrote, “Who ever heard of a man getting a divorce from a Pennsylvania girl—one who knows the mysteries of fried chickens and waffles?” It continued, “Fried chickens and waffles and hot corn bread will drive a man to the grave soon enough, liberally partaken of, even if they do not drive him to the divorce court.”
From Pennsylvania to Kansas, the dish was known across the country. The Grenola Greeting & Chief (KS), December 26, 1885, mentioned, “The ‘quilting’ as it was called was an affair of some importance, at which the minister was always invited in time for supper; and such suppers as we used to have. There was always fried chicken and waffles, with ham and fritters, and as many kinds of preserves and pickles as the table would hold.”
Southern origins? The Saint Paul Globe (MN), May 3, 1886, in an article about the differences of Northern and Southern cooking, printed, “Miss Parloa, the famous exponent of common sense cookery, has been making a tour of the South. As a result of her investigations she declares that the women of the South are better cooks than their Northern sisters. If the lady has allowed her judgment to become prejudiced under the seductive influence of the fried chicken and waffles which form the most complete expression of Southern culinary skill, she is perhaps excusable for her evidently biased statement."
Fried Chicken & Waffles extending back to the 1840s? The Altoona Times (PA), May 1, 1888, provided what might be the oldest reference to this dish, In an article titled, “An Adventure of Judge S. Jerry Black with a Bedford Stage Driver in 1842”, the Hon. William M. Hall provided a reminiscence of the early days of Judge Jeremiah S. Black and a stage driver, Samuel Baglet. The article mentioned, “.. the grand old times of stage-coaching and the excellent meals of fried chicken and waffles and hot coffee at the wayside inn, where the arrival of the stage was the great event of the day.”
If this is accurate, then it's possible that fried chicken and waffles could have originated in Pennsylvania. The dish certainly receives lots of Pennsylvania newspaper references during the later 19th century and start of the 20th century.
Fried chicken & waffles across the country. The Evening Star (D.C.), August 17, 1889, had a brief advertisement for “Fried Chicken and Waffles at the Highland country club for breakfast Sunday; try it.” The Kansas City Times (MO), October 22, 1889, mentioned, “Tuesday evening fried chicken and waffles at Barto hall.”
Back to Pennsylvania. The Pittsburgh Daily Post (PA), June 28, 1890, printed an article about Fayette County as a recommended vacation spot, noting about one place, “But that supper! Fried chicken and waffles, rich milk and honey, big, blackberries floating in real cream! Ho! This is a supper for the gods!”
The Critic (D.C.), September 13, 1890, stated that President Harrison had stayed at Cresson Springs, Pennsylvania, in an inn owned by an elderly woman who “.. was thoroughly familiar with the art if preparing a good meal of fried chicken and waffles, and last night he (Harrison) recommended the repast to some friends.”
The Union Leader (PA), January 2, 1891, noted that “All seemed headed for one destination, however, and that was Dallas—famous for its fried chicken and waffles.” Dallas was located at Raub’s hostelry.
Another older reference to fried chicken & waffles prior to 1870. The Boston Evening Transcript (MA), October 15, 1892, presented the memories of a former Confederate soldier, who had lived in Alabama, about the time before the Civil War. He mentioned that he had been, “..regaled with such a dinner as was only known in those gold old times consisting of fried chicken, waffles, every known compound of bread, hot cake and biscuit, and such quail on toast as makes eyes and mouth water to think about.” This is a bit more evidence of the age of fried chicken & waffles, and also that it was a Southern dish.
Maryland! The St. Louis Post-Dispatch (MO), March 26, 1893, wrote that after a wedding, the people enjoyed “... a genuine Marylnd breakfast of fried chicken, waffles, coffee, peaches and cream, fruits, etc…” And Delaware! The Evening Journal (DE), August 21, 1893, printed, “She surprised the cook by ordering tea, fried chicken, waffles, fried potatoes, cream toast, etc.” This order was for an evening dinner.
The Times (PA), October 1, 1893, mentioned that for the third course of a breakfast, they "... Maryland fried chicken, hot waffles and baked potatoes,..”
Louisiana! The Times-Picayune (LA), March 25, 1894, posted an ad for an Easter Menu, suggesting for supper, Fried Chicken and Waffles, Stuffed Potatoes, Sliced Tomatoes, Sardines, and Fruit.
Iowa! The Gazette (IA), January 8, 1895, had a short article about a woman who hosted a musical quartet at her home, and provided a dinner of fried chicken and waffles, which everyone "quickly devoured."
Fried chicken and waffles before the Civl War. The Intelligencer (SC), June 5, 1895, reprinted an article from the New York Sun, about the arrest of a Baptist preacher, who lived in North Carolina, for illegal producing and selling moonshine. The article also mentioned that prior to the Civil War, in the Carolinas, you could enjoy a breakfast of fried chicken and waffles.
Montana! The Independent-Record (Montana), August 5, 1895, detailed an event which had offered a breakfast of “...watermelon, fried chicken, Saratoga potatoes, waffles and strawberry preserves.”
How much for fried chicken & Waffles? The Pittsburgh Press (PA), February 8, 1896, discussed that at Randall farm, “where they serve the delicious fried chicken for supper, with a steaming plate of hot waffles, French fried potatoes and coffee,”it only cost you 25 cents.
Sylvan parties were a fad described in The Times (PA), May 30, 1897. For the location, you needed a “lonely old country mansion” and then to hire a “thrifty farmer’s wife” to cook dinner. “The country woman, who knows how to cook her country dishes to perfection, has a huge plate of fried chicken and limitless waffles and pigoons that have fed from her hand all winter,..”
Washington! The Spokesman-Review (WA), September 12, 1897, briefly noted, “The Cosmos dining room will open for breakfast this morning with fried spring chicken and waffles.” Ohio! The Times Recorder (OH), October 10, 1897, also briefly mentioned a supper of fried chicken and waffles.
Texas! The Houston Post (TX), July 13, 1899, had a breakfast menu with fried spring chicken and waffles. Nevada! The Reno Gazette-Journal (NV), November 7, 1899, mentioned that when local soldiers returned from the Philippines, they were feted with a breakfast that included fried chicken and waffles.
Fried Rabbit? The Daily Republican (PA), November 18, 1899, very briefly mentioned, “Fried rabbit, fried chicken and hot waffles at Sutman’s.” Fried rabbit & waffles would certainly be a tasty variation on this dish.
The Buffalo Evening News (NY), June 19, 1901, reprinted an interesting article from Harper’s Bazaar, which was reprinted in a number of other newspapers as well. “The Southern breakfast of fried chicken and waffles is not to be indulged in frequently by this generation under penalty of indigestion, but for once in a summer it is delicious. Waffles are considered difficult to prepare, yet really they are as simple as possible. The recipe calls for one pint of milk, two eggs, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder and butter the size of an egg, with flour to a thin batter. These waffles, with maple syrup, may be unwholesome, but they are good enough to tempt any one to gastronomic sin.”
This is more support that fried chicken & waffles is a Southern dish, and a recipe for waffles was provided, although not one for fried chicken. It also claims that waffles are "unwholesome", which has been essentially repeated in other newspapers too.
Hawaii? The Hawaii Herald (HI), March 6, 1902, published an article that stated the need for more cafes/restaurants to serve items like chicken and waffles. It stated, “... the man who gives you fried chicken and waffles is the one who will get the business if he is within driving distance of town.”
The Poultry Gazette (KS), April 1, 1904, discussed the upcoming World’s Fair in St. Louis, which would have a Model Poultry Farm, opening on May 1. The Farm would also have a restaurant, serving various poultry dishes, including Southern fried chicken & waffles.
More evidence of fried chicken and waffles being older than 1870. The St. Louis Globe-Democrat (MO), September 11, 1904, presented a story of the Civil War, discussing a woman whose daughter asked her why they didn't have fried chicken and waffles like they used to have. The daughter was born in 1860, so is probably recalling a time maybe when she was 5-6 years old.
The Buffalo Sunday Morning-News (NY), December 4, 1904, provided some cooking advice. “It you’re afraid of attempting foreign cookery, try your own country’s. Give the family a true Southern dinner one day of fried chicken and waffles…” The Pittsburgh Press (PA), August 10, 1905, stated, “A typical southern breakfast of fried chicken, waffles, and hot biscuits…” And the Brooklyn Daily Eagle (NY), October 29, 1905, also mentioned, “The breakfast included the typical Southern dishes of fried chicken, hot waffles and the like.”
Hawaii? The Hawaii Herald (HI), March 6, 1902, published an article that stated the need for more cafes/restaurants to serve items like chicken and waffles. It stated, “... the man who gives you fried chicken and waffles is the one who will get the business if he is within driving distance of town.”
The Poultry Gazette (KS), April 1, 1904, discussed the upcoming World’s Fair in St. Louis, which would have a Model Poultry Farm, opening on May 1. The Farm would also have a restaurant, serving various poultry dishes, including Southern fried chicken & waffles.
More evidence of fried chicken and waffles being older than 1870. The St. Louis Globe-Democrat (MO), September 11, 1904, presented a story of the Civil War, discussing a woman whose daughter asked her why they didn't have fried chicken and waffles like they used to have. The daughter was born in 1860, so is probably recalling a time maybe when she was 5-6 years old.
The Buffalo Sunday Morning-News (NY), December 4, 1904, provided some cooking advice. “It you’re afraid of attempting foreign cookery, try your own country’s. Give the family a true Southern dinner one day of fried chicken and waffles…” The Pittsburgh Press (PA), August 10, 1905, stated, “A typical southern breakfast of fried chicken, waffles, and hot biscuits…” And the Brooklyn Daily Eagle (NY), October 29, 1905, also mentioned, “The breakfast included the typical Southern dishes of fried chicken, hot waffles and the like.”
It certainly seems a number of sources claim that fried chicken & waffles was a southern Sish.
New York! The Star-Gazette (NY), March 1, 1906, advertised the Windmill Hotel, Pine City, New York, whose March menu included fried chicken and waffles. Connecticut! The Record-Journal (CT), May 15, 1906, briefly mentioned a breakfast menu with fried chicken and waffles. Vermont! The St. Albans Daily Messenger (VT), August 25, 1906, also briefly mentioned a breakfast menu with fried chicken and waffles.
The first fried chicken & waffles recipe. The Evening Star (D.C.), May 5, 1907, published the first newspaper recipe for Fried Chicken & Waffles, a luncheon dish, although the recipe only told people how to make the chicken, and not the waffles.
Hawaii! The Evening Bulletin (HI), February 17, 1909, had a brief ad for the Haleiwa Hotel, which served Fried Chicken & Waffles.
Waffle recipe. The Sacramento Bee (CA), November 26, 1909, discussed a fried chicken & waffles dinner event, providing a recipe for Raised Waffles, pictured above.
Fired chicken & waffles as a punitive measure? The Tribune (OH), July 24, 1913, probably an intriguing article about Warden Thomas, who presided over a penitentiary in Columbus, and had “devised a new plan of increasing the terror of solitary confinement at the penitentiary." He lamented that 10-30 days in solitary was “practically the only rigorous punishment now meted out at the pen,..” Usually, solitary prisoners only received bread and water, but the Warden found that 30 days of this was actually not that stiff a punishment.
New York! The Star-Gazette (NY), March 1, 1906, advertised the Windmill Hotel, Pine City, New York, whose March menu included fried chicken and waffles. Connecticut! The Record-Journal (CT), May 15, 1906, briefly mentioned a breakfast menu with fried chicken and waffles. Vermont! The St. Albans Daily Messenger (VT), August 25, 1906, also briefly mentioned a breakfast menu with fried chicken and waffles.
Hawaii! The Evening Bulletin (HI), February 17, 1909, had a brief ad for the Haleiwa Hotel, which served Fried Chicken & Waffles.
Fired chicken & waffles as a punitive measure? The Tribune (OH), July 24, 1913, probably an intriguing article about Warden Thomas, who presided over a penitentiary in Columbus, and had “devised a new plan of increasing the terror of solitary confinement at the penitentiary." He lamented that 10-30 days in solitary was “practically the only rigorous punishment now meted out at the pen,..” Usually, solitary prisoners only received bread and water, but the Warden found that 30 days of this was actually not that stiff a punishment.
What happened was that after 2-3 days, the prisoner's stomach would cease to crave other food and the bread furnished sufficient nourishment. To overcome this, solitary prisoners would now received fried chicken & waffles every third day of their imprisonment. So, just after the prisoner got used to the bread and water, they would receive a real meal, and their hunger would be “renewed three fold tantalizing by the full meal.” As the article said, “Through this system they are kept ravenously hungry all the time.”
The article continued, “Solitary confinement is usually used to ‘bring to time’ recalcitrant prisoners who refuse to work. Under the old plan they would hold out for weeks.” The warden said, “Now after they have been in three days, and got good and hungry, and are again put on bread and water after a full dinner they can’t stand it and go to work as meekly as little lambs.”
I'll note that newspapers during the first twenty years of the 20th century contained a number of other references to Fried Chicken & Waffles, although I have chosen not to include every reference here, as many are merely duplicative, adding nothing of significance to the discussion. It was clear though that fried chicken & waffles was available all across the country.
It is very clear that fried chicken & waffles were not invented by the Wells Supper Club in 1938. We can see that fried chicken & waffles existed at least as far back as 1870, and possibly as far back as the 1840s. It was most likely of Southern origin, although Pennsylvania has a strong nexus to this dish as well. The dish existed all across the country, even as far west as Hawaii.
Which restaurant serves your favorite Chicken & Waffles dish?
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