The Doughnut.
The tradition of Thanksgiving doughnuts potentially extends back to the late 18th century, around 1798 (and maybe even earlier), although newspaper references didn't start mentioning the tradition until the 1830s. Those references continued until into the 1950s, when it soon after largely seemed to die out for unknown reasons. We need to revive this tradition, to bring the beloved doughnut back to the Thanksgiving table. I'm sure plenty of people would embrace this tradition, and revel in the delectable taste of a doughnut with their turkey dinner.
So, start making your plans now, whether you decide to make your own doughnuts at home or purchase them from your favorite doughnut shop. Hopefully, local doughnut shops will get behind the revival of this tradition as well, creating special flavored doughnuts for the holiday. However, many doughnut shops appear to be closed on Thanksgiving, so you may need to purchase them the day before. Making them at home might be your best option for getting the freshest doughnut.
Let's delve into the fascinating history of the tradition of the Thanksgiving doughnut.
The Tennessean (TN), September 24, 1836, in an article on Thanksgiving, noted that a woman, preparing for the holiday the day before, had made “... a lot o’ pies, and cakes, and sausage-meat, and dough-nuts,..” We should note as well that around this time, doughnuts lacked the "holes" we now know. They were more like little fried cakes.
In another local mention, a more poetic note, the Richmond Dispatch (VA), November 25, 1852, stated: “The Boston Post commemorates a thanksgiving raphsody (sic) as follows, “Yes, ye trencher-men, rejoice and be exceeding glad, for thanksgiving is nigh at hand. Let the good house wife bake up a goodly number of pumpkin pies, fix up the chicken fixens, and get their nice cakes and doughnuts ready---for thanksgiving is coming right along.”
There was another Thanksgiving poem in the Hillsdale Standard (MI), November 22, 1853. which stated: “Hark! The Turkies’ plaintive cries! Puddings rare, and pumpkin pies, Chickens fat and doughnuts round,..” This poem would be repeated in other newspapers through at least 1855. Doughnuts were definitely considered a Thanksgiving tradition.
The Vermont Gazette (VT), November 18, 1871, mentioned: “Thanksgiving occurs a fortnight from last Thursday. Get ready your turkies, cranberries, doughnuts, pumpkin pies and sich.” And the Richmond Weekly Palladium (IN), November 25, 1874, published an advertisement offering “Thanksgiving doughnuts at the Quaker City Bakery.” The Kansas City Times (MO), November 27, 1879, had a snippet, "And those mince pies--those mince pies--and then Thanksgiving doughnuts!--O, how Mother used to make them!" The Clinton Advocate (MO), November 26, 1885, offered a Thanksgiving poem, with a line stating: “Round the platter of doughnuts and pumpkin pies;”
The Nashville Banner (TN), November 17, 1891, had a brief advertisement for a "Children's Store" which offered "Thanksgiving candies, pies, cakes and doughnuts." The Miami Herald (FL), November 26, 1891, discussed a woman who was going to her New England home for Thanksgiving, and she looked for to assisting her mom, "Doughnuts were to be fried, pumpkin pies baked, the turkeys to be prepared, the one for boiling with its dressing and sauce of oysters, the other suitably stuffed to be roasted and eaten with its accompanying cranberries;..." The Indianapolis Times (IN), November 28, 1891, talked about the meeting of an art group where, "Talking, smoking and Thanksgiving doughnuts and cider closed the evening's entertainment."
This is the only doughnut recipe I found that specifically named them "Thanksgiving Doughnuts." The recipe was in the Tulsa Sunday Times (OK), November 26, 1916. It's not a difficult recipe and you could make them yourself this upcoming Thanksgiving.
The Daily Times, November 22, 1921, also had an advertisement for Thanksgiving doughnuts, noting "Doughnuts are a balanced food--Fat, Starch, Eggs and Milk."
It's time to revive this Thanksgiving tradition! I plan on having doughnuts this year, and hopefully home-made ones. I'm sure everyone at my Thanksgiving table will be very happy to see fresh doughnuts. Who else believes we should bring back this tradition? Which doughnut stores will help to lead a path to the revival of Thanksgiving doughnuts?
We begin with an article in The Springfield Daily Republican (MA), November 25, 1888, which discussed a Thanksgiving feast that occurred 90 years before. The writer's grandfather told him about the feast, and it included doughnuts. "The doughnuts were never forgotten, real old fashioned Thanksgiving donuts, rolled out in a round, just as big as a plate, cut in the middle into strips, twisted and then fried, just so." This meant that the tradition of Thanksgiving donuts extended back to the late 18th century, to at least 1798.
The first newspaper reference I found to this tradition was the Daily Evening Advertiser (ME), November 17, 1834, which stated: “The Journeymen Printers from New England in the city of New York, have agreed to celebrate the forthcoming Thanksgiving in true Yankee style. Roast turkies, pumpkin pies, molasses gingerbread, dough-nuts, and all the etceteras of this well known Yankee holiday, are to crown the festive board.”
The first newspaper reference I found to this tradition was the Daily Evening Advertiser (ME), November 17, 1834, which stated: “The Journeymen Printers from New England in the city of New York, have agreed to celebrate the forthcoming Thanksgiving in true Yankee style. Roast turkies, pumpkin pies, molasses gingerbread, dough-nuts, and all the etceteras of this well known Yankee holiday, are to crown the festive board.”
This indicates that doughnuts were part of the "Yankee" tradition of Thanksgiving, although it doesn't state how long that tradition had been in place. We don't know how or why the tradition started, but this brief article didn't make it seem this was an oddity.
The Tennessean (TN), September 24, 1836, in an article on Thanksgiving, noted that a woman, preparing for the holiday the day before, had made “... a lot o’ pies, and cakes, and sausage-meat, and dough-nuts,..” We should note as well that around this time, doughnuts lacked the "holes" we now know. They were more like little fried cakes.
The Nantucket Inquirer (MA), February 3, 1836, mentioned, "So the day afore thanksgivin' she called me into the tether room, that marm Peabody christened the parlor, to see what a lot o' pies and cakes and sausagemeat and dough-nuts, she'd got made up, and charge me not to lay the weight on my finger upon one of 'em."
In a more local mention, The Baltimore Sun (MD), December 4, 1838, printed, “The Boston Times, describing Thanksgiving day, says ‘All is joy and cider, frolic and fried dough-nuts. Where were the pumpkin pies?”
There was another brief reference to the New England Thanksgiving tradition and doughnuts noted in the Rutland Weekly Herald (VT), October 15, 1839. The newspaper also stated that in Manhattan, doughnuts were called “Crawlers,” like a precursor to the word "Cruller."
In a more local mention, The Baltimore Sun (MD), December 4, 1838, printed, “The Boston Times, describing Thanksgiving day, says ‘All is joy and cider, frolic and fried dough-nuts. Where were the pumpkin pies?”
There was another brief reference to the New England Thanksgiving tradition and doughnuts noted in the Rutland Weekly Herald (VT), October 15, 1839. The newspaper also stated that in Manhattan, doughnuts were called “Crawlers,” like a precursor to the word "Cruller."
In the Baltimore Clipper (MD), November 13, 1839, it mentioned, "Life does not consist in merely breathing, as the Yankee said when he sat down to his thanksgiving dinner--and the way he swallowed the doughnuts and molasses gingerbread was a mercy to the turkies and other sweetmeats."
There was another Thanksgiving poem in the Hillsdale Standard (MI), November 22, 1853. which stated: “Hark! The Turkies’ plaintive cries! Puddings rare, and pumpkin pies, Chickens fat and doughnuts round,..” This poem would be repeated in other newspapers through at least 1855. Doughnuts were definitely considered a Thanksgiving tradition.
The Amherst Collegiate Magazine conducted by the Students of Amherst College (Massachusetts, 1853) published an article state noted, "Thanksgiving at home--what a medley of good things are suggested by the words! What visions arise of puddings plum and plump, of swollen cakes and plethoric pies, of cranberries, apples, doughnuts, walnuts;.."
In My Sister Margaret: A Temperance Story by Mrs. C.M. Edwards (New York, 1859) there was a discussion of a Thanksgiving dinner, mentioning, "Loaves of cake and pots of doughnuts stood side by side; a large turkey was roasting before the kitchen fire,..."
There were a number of brief mentions of doughnuts and Thanksgiving dinners in the Cleveland Daily Leader (OH), December 2, 1861, Orange County Telegraph (VT), December 12, 1862, Pittson Gazette (PA), November 24, 1864, the Rock Island Argus (IL), November 26, 1870, Guard of Honor Monthly (NY), December 1, 1872, Daily Kansas Tribune (KS), November 20, 1873, Champaign County Gazette (IL), November 27, 1878, and the Down Times (KS), November 20, 1890.
There were a number of brief mentions of doughnuts and Thanksgiving dinners in the Cleveland Daily Leader (OH), December 2, 1861, Orange County Telegraph (VT), December 12, 1862, Pittson Gazette (PA), November 24, 1864, the Rock Island Argus (IL), November 26, 1870, Guard of Honor Monthly (NY), December 1, 1872, Daily Kansas Tribune (KS), November 20, 1873, Champaign County Gazette (IL), November 27, 1878, and the Down Times (KS), November 20, 1890.
In Our Young Folks: An Illustrated Magazine for Boys and Girls, edited by J.T. Trowbridge and Lucy Larcom (Boston, November 1870), there was The Soldier's Family--An Opera For Children, which had a discussion of Thanksgiving, and some of the treats served for that holiday, including "Doughnuts and apples and walnuts all cracked!" In a later passage, it was mentioned the doughnuts were fried.
The Vermont Gazette (VT), November 18, 1871, mentioned: “Thanksgiving occurs a fortnight from last Thursday. Get ready your turkies, cranberries, doughnuts, pumpkin pies and sich.” And the Richmond Weekly Palladium (IN), November 25, 1874, published an advertisement offering “Thanksgiving doughnuts at the Quaker City Bakery.” The Kansas City Times (MO), November 27, 1879, had a snippet, "And those mince pies--those mince pies--and then Thanksgiving doughnuts!--O, how Mother used to make them!" The Clinton Advocate (MO), November 26, 1885, offered a Thanksgiving poem, with a line stating: “Round the platter of doughnuts and pumpkin pies;”
The Nashville Banner (TN), November 17, 1891, had a brief advertisement for a "Children's Store" which offered "Thanksgiving candies, pies, cakes and doughnuts." The Miami Herald (FL), November 26, 1891, discussed a woman who was going to her New England home for Thanksgiving, and she looked for to assisting her mom, "Doughnuts were to be fried, pumpkin pies baked, the turkeys to be prepared, the one for boiling with its dressing and sauce of oysters, the other suitably stuffed to be roasted and eaten with its accompanying cranberries;..." The Indianapolis Times (IN), November 28, 1891, talked about the meeting of an art group where, "Talking, smoking and Thanksgiving doughnuts and cider closed the evening's entertainment."
The Gazette (IA), November 24, 1893, offered a brief advertisement, "Buy your home-made Thanksgiving pies, doughnuts, and fruit cake at Jackson's Wednesday morning."
The Pittsburgh Press (PA), November 28, 1894, had a brief ad for a leaf lard, stating your "Thanksgiving Doughnuts" would be "doubly delightful" if they were made with this lard. The Pittsburgh Post-Gazette (PA), November 18, 1895, printed: “The chilly evenings and frosty mornings remind us that Thanksgiving is almost here. The turkey is fattening, the doughnuts are frying, and as for pies, none other than mince pies will be considered for the Thanksgiving dinner.”
A Thanksgiving song. The Appleton City Journal (MO), November 26, 1896, printed a "Thanksgiving Song" and one of the lyrics stated, "Heigh ho! for dear jolly Thanksgiving, with doughnuts and cranberry sauce." The New Herald (PA), November 18, 1897, briefly mentioned a "Thanksgiving Doughnut Feast" was to be held by a local church.
The St. Joseph News-Press (MO), November 26, 1919, published an ad for a new doughnut shop, which stated "Get your Thanksgiving doughnuts tonight." The doughnuts included: perfect cream doughnuts, frosted doughnuts, nut top doughnuts, French doughnuts, and chocolate top doughnuts.
Another lard advertisement! The Evening Times (PA), November 19, 1920, printed an ad about Bailey's Home Rendered Lard, which stated, "The minute you drop a Thanksgiving doughnut in the fat, it starts frying at once. When done the doughnut will be tender and delicious."
Thanksgiving doughnuts even extended as far west as Hawaii! They were no longer just a New England tradition. The Honolulu Advertiser (HI), November 22, 1921, posted an ad asking people to order their Thanksgiving Doughnuts from the Doughnut Shop.
The Knoxville News-Sentinel (TN), November 28, 1928, mentioned that women from a local church were holding a "Thanksgiving doughnut" sale. There was another advertisement in the The Record (NJ), November 26, 1929, which briefly stated, “Doughnuts and Thanksgiving go hand in hand.”
It seems Thanksgiving doughnuts might not have been popular all across the country. In the The State (SC), November 18, 1930, it noted, “The difficulty in writing ‘household hints’ for the whole country is illustrated by the Thanksgiving bill of fare proposed by the Associated Press ‘Homemaker,’ Loise Bennett Weaver, which makes doughnuts an important item. Imagine doughnuts on a Southern table on Thanksgiving Day!”
Thanksgiving donuts in Canada! The Saint John Times Globe (New Brunswick, Canada), October 15, 1935, noted that a local church group would be having a sale of "Thanksgiving doughnuts." It appears this tradition had traveled north to Canada.
The Indianapolis Star (IN). November 27, 1935, ran a news article about a new doughnut machine at Sears, Roebuck & Co., where customers could watch them being made. The machine could produce 35 dozen Thanksgiving doughnuts in an hour. The Commercial Appeal (TN), November 27, 1935, had a Thanksgiving recipe for Molasses Drop Cookies, which was made with a special new lard shortening, and it was noted, "... it clicks with everything. For roasting the Thanksgiving turkey, for frying the Thanksgiving doughnuts..."
The Indianapolis Star (IN). November 27, 1935, ran a news article about a new doughnut machine at Sears, Roebuck & Co., where customers could watch them being made. The machine could produce 35 dozen Thanksgiving doughnuts in an hour. The Commercial Appeal (TN), November 27, 1935, had a Thanksgiving recipe for Molasses Drop Cookies, which was made with a special new lard shortening, and it was noted, "... it clicks with everything. For roasting the Thanksgiving turkey, for frying the Thanksgiving doughnuts..."
The Daily Messenger (NY), November 22, 1937, published an ad for The Downyflake Shop, which asked you to "Order Your Thanksgiving Cakes, Doughnuts, Cookies and Pastries Now!" And the Democrat & Chronicle (NY), November 18, 1939, had a small ad, "Mayflower Doughnuts--For Thanksgiving. Plain, sugar, cinnamon, nut crunch."
The Sun-Journal (ME) November 15, 1941, offered an article on "Honoring The Holiday Doughnut," which included a lengthy history of the doughnut. The article began, "No real New England Thanksgiving dinner, following the tradition of generations, would be complete with doughnuts left out."
One of the last mentions I found of Thanksgiving doughnuts was a brief note in the Troy Daily New (NY), November 21, 1942, which mentioned a "Thanksgiving doughnut sale" at a local church.
After this time, the newspapers apparently stopped almost all mentions, except for a mere handful, of Thanksgiving and doughnuts. It's possible that World War II, where doughnuts played an important role in some respects, might have contributed to the elimination of the tradition of doughnuts on Thanksgiving, although that is only speculation. The timing though seems coincidental, so its an avenue that warrants additional research.
The following are a few of the continued mentions of Thanksgiving donuts, which largely end by the 1960s.
The Windham County Observer (CT), November 18, 1947, provided a little info on Dave's Doughnut Shop, noting it "... has just what you want for that Thanksgiving social. Doughnuts, light as a feather,.." They cost 35 cents for a dozen of the plain doughnuts. They also sell frosted, cinnamon and powdered sugar doughnuts.
There was a brief mention in the Los Angeles Evening Citizen News (CA), November 20, 1954, of a Thanksgiving doughnut sale by the PTA. And the Berkeley Gazette (CA), November 11, 1955, also had a brief note of Thanksgiving doughnuts.
Thanksgiving Doughnuts once again in Canada! The Montreal Star (Quebec), September 29, 1956, had a lengthy article about Thanksgiving dinner, with a number of recipes. One of those recipes was for "Thanksgiving Doughnuts." These were plain, fried doughnuts, without an inner hole. This recipe would also be printed in a couple newspapers in Ontario.
The Salisbury Post (NC), November 20, 1963, mentioned that there would be a Thanksgiving Day doughnut sale hosted by a National Honor Society.
The largest Thanksgiving doughnut. The Hood County News (TX), November 25, 1979, briefly related that, "The world's first and largest Thanksgiving doughnut.." was recently unveiled. It weighed over 40 pounds and was said to be able to feed 300 people. A local doughnut shop spent 32 hours making this doughnut.
(This article was revised/expanded in October 2024)
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