White Port can be made from a wide variety of white grapes, with over 45 authorized types, such as Arinto, Cercial, Codega, Gouveio, Malvasia Fina, Rabigato, and Viosinho. It's generally produced in the same manner as Red Ports but they are usually fermented without any skin contact and commonly aged, for two to three years, in 550 liter oak pipes. White Ports range from dry to sweet, and the sweetest versions are sometimes known as Lagrima ("tears"). There's also a special category called Leve Seco ("light dry") which has a lower alcohol content, about 16.5%.
Most White Ports are released when they are young, but there's also a small category of aged White Ports. There's White Ports with an Indication of Age, similar to Tawny age categories, including 10, 20, 30, 40 and 50 Year Old Ports. The 50 Year Old category is new, having just been introduced in 2022, and includes both Tawny and White Ports. Kopke has bottled a 50 Year Old White Port, as well as a similarly aged Tawny.
You can also find Colheita White Ports, made from a specific vintage, and as an example, Kopke also produces a full line of Colheita White Ports. Finally, there's another relatively new category known as Very Old White Port, which includes old White Ports that don't fit into the other categories. Vieira de Sousa produces a unique Very Old White Port.
I've previously enjoyed a number of Aged White Ports, such as those of Quinta de Santa Eufemia, and I find them to be complex, fascinating and delicious. They are well worth seeking out. And they also have raised a question in my mind.
When was White Port first produced?
That appears to be a question not addressed in the most common books about Port. Google searches also aren't too helpful. You can easily discover that Taylor Fladgate claims to have been the first, in 1934, to create a dry White Port, which they called Chip Dry White Port. You might also find a few references to White Port from the end of the 19th century. So, I endeavored to delve deeper into the history of White Port, to get more clarity, if possible, on the question of its origins.
The results of my research were relatively successful, as well as fascinating. In short, White Port appears to be probably as old as Red Port, extending back to the late 17th century. White Port was first exported to the U.S. in the first half of the 18th century, and those imports included old White Ports as well as Vintage White Ports! So, let's explore the early history of White Port.
Over the next twenty years, Dr. William Salmon (1644–1713), an English doctor and author, wrote several books that mentioned White Port. Some of the books recommended White Port as an ingredient in certain medicinal elixirs, while one of his books mentioned it as an ingredient in various food recipes. He obviously saw White Port as a versatile wine, for health benefits as well as adding taste to various dishes.
His first book to mention White Port appears to be Dr. Syndenham’s Practice of Physick (London, 1695). One of the medicinal elixirs was made as such, “Take White Port Wine six spoonfuls, Powers of Lavender, Rosemary, and Limons, of each half a dram; white Sugar two ounces: mix for a Dose.” Additional medicinal uses of White Port were also mentioned in Ars Chirurgica: A Compendium of the Theory and Practice of Chirurgery (London, 1699), Botanologia: The English Herbal: Or History of Plants (London, 1710), and the Praxis Medica: The Practice of Physick (London, 1716).
In Salmon's The Family Dictionary: Or, Household Companion (London, 1696, 2nd edition), there were about 10 of so food recipes which used White Port as an ingredient, while the 4th edition (1710) expanded on this, with over 40 recipes such as a Sauce for Capons & Turkies, Veal Stewed, Buttering of Shrimps, and Fried Lamb Steaks.
One of the earliest British newspapers to mention White Port was the Newcastle Weekly Courant (England), September 7, 1723, which printed an advertisement for wine, which included, “Port white Wine, and red Port Wine.” During the rest of the 18th century, there were numerous advertisements in British newspapers mentioning White Port, but little description of this wine was provided.
As for the United States, the first newspaper reference to White Port seems to be in the South Carolina Gazette (SC), December 7, 1734. There was an advertisement in the newspaper, listing the cargo of an merchant ship, which included Red and White Port. So, we see that White Port has been available in the U.S. for nearly 300 years.
The Gloucester Journal (England), September 9, 1755, advertised an auction of wines, rums, and arrack. The offerings included "Six Pipes of curious Red Port, of the year 1752" as well as one from the year 1750. There were also "Six Pipes of White Port, of the year 1752." In addition, they had "A Parcel of Old Bottled Port, of the Year 1748." Although the term "vintage" wasn't mentioned, it's clear that these ports were made from a specific vintage, with 1748 being the oldest mentioned.
The Boston-Gazette (MA), November 6, 1769, published a wine advertisement, which offered, “Red and white Port of the Vintage of 1764.” This ad actually used the term "vintage," and predates the information in the Christie's catalog.
During the 19th century, the newspaper advertisements began to be more descriptive, offering for sale Vintage and aged White Ports. Let's begin with a review of several British newspapers during the first half of the 19th century.
The Leeds Intelligencer & Yorkshire General Advertiser (England), January 12, 1807, printed an ad selling “very FINE OLD WHITE PORT, warranted upwards of Four Years in Bottles, and nearly equal to the best Madeira.” This was obviously intended to be high quality White Port, although it was only aged for four years in the bottle. The Observer (England), July 6, 1834, presented an ad which included a White Port that had spent 15 years in the bottle.
As for Vintage White Port, the Chester Chronicle (England), September 2, 1814, mentioned an offer for sale of a “Parcel of Red and White Port wines, of the vintage 1812.” The Morning Chronicle (England), May 23, 1826, offered for sale, “...curious old White Port, vintage 1815.” The 1815 Vintage is now known as the Waterloo Vintage, as it was the year when the Battle of Waterloo was fought. In 2015, a bottle of 1815 Vintage Red Port was sold at auction for 6,800 Euros. I'll also add that The Norwich Guide and Directory by G.K. Blyth (London, 1842), printed a wine ad for, “White Port. Vintage 1798.” A White Port that was over 40 years old!
Some intriguing information on White Port production was provided in The Vintner's, Brewer's, Spirit Merchant's and Licensed Victualler's Guide by A Practical Man (5th edition, London, 1838). It stated, “To Fine White Port Wine. White Port is a very stubborn wine, and requires to be fined and racked two or three times before it will become soft and pleasant. When the wine has been for some time in the vault, take two ounces and a half of isinglass, beat it very small with a hammer, and put it into two quarts of stale cider or perry, for forty-eight hours; then whisk it up into a froth in a can with some of the wine, and if the weather is temperate, out into the finings a gill or marble sand, stirring it well about again for five minutes. Leave the bung loose for three days afterwards bung it up for a fortnight, and rack it off into a Madeira pipe, using less of the finings than before. By this method the wine will be much improved.”
A bit more description on the nature of White Port was presented in an advertisement in The Morning Post (England), November 26, 1842. It started, “White Port, having the unmingled expression of the white grape, which flourishes in high perfection on the heights of the Douro, is rich, redolent, and vinous in flavor, and combines every luxuriant attribute that wine can possess.”
The Boston Evening Transcript (MA), October 24, 1850, mentioned, “London Dock Port and White Port, very superior.” And the Daily Republic (D.C.), November 18, 1850, in an ad for a wine shop in Philadelphia, offered “rare delicate WHITE PORT.”
When was White Port first produced?
That appears to be a question not addressed in the most common books about Port. Google searches also aren't too helpful. You can easily discover that Taylor Fladgate claims to have been the first, in 1934, to create a dry White Port, which they called Chip Dry White Port. You might also find a few references to White Port from the end of the 19th century. So, I endeavored to delve deeper into the history of White Port, to get more clarity, if possible, on the question of its origins.
The results of my research were relatively successful, as well as fascinating. In short, White Port appears to be probably as old as Red Port, extending back to the late 17th century. White Port was first exported to the U.S. in the first half of the 18th century, and those imports included old White Ports as well as Vintage White Ports! So, let's explore the early history of White Port.
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It was around 1680, that the first wines from the Douro region of Portugal became known as "Port Wines." England was initially the primary export market for these Port Wines. Were these initial wines only Red Ports, or were White Ports also being produced at this time?
During my research, the first reference I found to White Port was in The Lombard-Street Lecturer’s Late Farewell Sermon, Answer’d: Or, the Welsh Levite by David Jones (London, 1692), which mentioned, “… , the Guilt of the Husband, when he trespasses on the benevolence of his Pious Comfort with a buxom Harlot over a pint of White Port in a Hedge Tavern;...” A hedge tavern was generally a lower class establishment, and apparently white port was a common beverage in such places.
During my research, the first reference I found to White Port was in The Lombard-Street Lecturer’s Late Farewell Sermon, Answer’d: Or, the Welsh Levite by David Jones (London, 1692), which mentioned, “… , the Guilt of the Husband, when he trespasses on the benevolence of his Pious Comfort with a buxom Harlot over a pint of White Port in a Hedge Tavern;...” A hedge tavern was generally a lower class establishment, and apparently white port was a common beverage in such places.
This reference is only about 12 years after the first mention of Port Wines, but it's clear from the context that White Port had existed before 1692. There was no effort to define "White Port," and it was apparently assumed that the readers would know it. Thus, it seems likely that White Port was created around the same time as Red Port. So, the known history of White Port extends back over 330 years.
Over the next twenty years, Dr. William Salmon (1644–1713), an English doctor and author, wrote several books that mentioned White Port. Some of the books recommended White Port as an ingredient in certain medicinal elixirs, while one of his books mentioned it as an ingredient in various food recipes. He obviously saw White Port as a versatile wine, for health benefits as well as adding taste to various dishes.
His first book to mention White Port appears to be Dr. Syndenham’s Practice of Physick (London, 1695). One of the medicinal elixirs was made as such, “Take White Port Wine six spoonfuls, Powers of Lavender, Rosemary, and Limons, of each half a dram; white Sugar two ounces: mix for a Dose.” Additional medicinal uses of White Port were also mentioned in Ars Chirurgica: A Compendium of the Theory and Practice of Chirurgery (London, 1699), Botanologia: The English Herbal: Or History of Plants (London, 1710), and the Praxis Medica: The Practice of Physick (London, 1716).
In Salmon's The Family Dictionary: Or, Household Companion (London, 1696, 2nd edition), there were about 10 of so food recipes which used White Port as an ingredient, while the 4th edition (1710) expanded on this, with over 40 recipes such as a Sauce for Capons & Turkies, Veal Stewed, Buttering of Shrimps, and Fried Lamb Steaks.
The Ipswich Journal (England), November 8, 1735, advertised Red and White Port, both available for 6 shillings. Another ad in the Gloucester Journal (England), December 14, 1736, had White Port for 6 shillings but Red Port was 6 shillings, 6 pence. The Gloucester Journal (England), October 29, 1751, advertised, for wholesale, Old Red Port (a dozen bottles for 19 shillings) and Old White Port (a dozen bottles for 18 shillings). The Ipswich Journal (England), November 2, 1751, advertised Red and White Port, both for 5 shillings, 6 pence per gallon. These prices would remain the same in a similar ad in this newspaper in 1756.
During the 1760s and 1770s, Red and White Ports were generally sold for prices ranging from 5-6 shillings per gallon. In the 1780s, these ports started being sold for about 7 shillings.
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As a brief inside, many resources claim that the first mention of “Vintage Port” was in a Christie’s auction catalog (dated 1773), which referred to a 1765 vintage port wine. However, my own research found earlier mentions. I'll note that at this time period, there weren't any specific regulations for the use of the term "vintage," and it just meant Port from a specific year.
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During the rest of the 18th century, there were numerous ads for White Port in U.S. newspapers, and nearly all provided little descriptive information about these wines. A couple exceptions though mentioned old White Ports. The Daily Advertiser (NY), June 4, 1788, mentioned “A choice cargo of White Port Wine, twelve years old, of a superior quality to any ever imported to this country.” The Maryland Gazette (MD), October 28, 1790, also had an ad for “White Port, fourteen years old.” White Port wasn't just a simple, sweet wine, but could be found in Vintage and aged styles.
Also during the 18th century, White Port made its appearance in Canada and Ireland. The first mention of White Port in Canada might have been in the The Derby Mercury (England), October 20, 1749, which published a letter from someone in Nova Scotia. The writer mentioned being able to buy Red and White Port for a shilling per bottle. As for Ireland, the Freeman’s Journal & Daily Commercial Advertiser (Ireland), June 15, 1775, had maybe that country's first advertisement for White Port.
Also during the 18th century, White Port made its appearance in Canada and Ireland. The first mention of White Port in Canada might have been in the The Derby Mercury (England), October 20, 1749, which published a letter from someone in Nova Scotia. The writer mentioned being able to buy Red and White Port for a shilling per bottle. As for Ireland, the Freeman’s Journal & Daily Commercial Advertiser (Ireland), June 15, 1775, had maybe that country's first advertisement for White Port.
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The Leeds Intelligencer & Yorkshire General Advertiser (England), January 12, 1807, printed an ad selling “very FINE OLD WHITE PORT, warranted upwards of Four Years in Bottles, and nearly equal to the best Madeira.” This was obviously intended to be high quality White Port, although it was only aged for four years in the bottle. The Observer (England), July 6, 1834, presented an ad which included a White Port that had spent 15 years in the bottle.
As for Vintage White Port, the Chester Chronicle (England), September 2, 1814, mentioned an offer for sale of a “Parcel of Red and White Port wines, of the vintage 1812.” The Morning Chronicle (England), May 23, 1826, offered for sale, “...curious old White Port, vintage 1815.” The 1815 Vintage is now known as the Waterloo Vintage, as it was the year when the Battle of Waterloo was fought. In 2015, a bottle of 1815 Vintage Red Port was sold at auction for 6,800 Euros. I'll also add that The Norwich Guide and Directory by G.K. Blyth (London, 1842), printed a wine ad for, “White Port. Vintage 1798.” A White Port that was over 40 years old!
Some intriguing information on White Port production was provided in The Vintner's, Brewer's, Spirit Merchant's and Licensed Victualler's Guide by A Practical Man (5th edition, London, 1838). It stated, “To Fine White Port Wine. White Port is a very stubborn wine, and requires to be fined and racked two or three times before it will become soft and pleasant. When the wine has been for some time in the vault, take two ounces and a half of isinglass, beat it very small with a hammer, and put it into two quarts of stale cider or perry, for forty-eight hours; then whisk it up into a froth in a can with some of the wine, and if the weather is temperate, out into the finings a gill or marble sand, stirring it well about again for five minutes. Leave the bung loose for three days afterwards bung it up for a fortnight, and rack it off into a Madeira pipe, using less of the finings than before. By this method the wine will be much improved.”
A bit more description on the nature of White Port was presented in an advertisement in The Morning Post (England), November 26, 1842. It started, “White Port, having the unmingled expression of the white grape, which flourishes in high perfection on the heights of the Douro, is rich, redolent, and vinous in flavor, and combines every luxuriant attribute that wine can possess.”
Let's now move onto a review of several U.S. newspapers during the first half of the 19th century, which provided a bit more description of the White Ports offered for sale.
The Philadelphia Inquirer (PA), March 14, 1837, printed an ad offering “..., old white Port of choice quality.” The Philadelphia Inquirer (PA), February 15, 1841, then offered “Extra Sup. Old Red Port, ‘Vintage 1815,’ wine wholesale; Extra Sup. Old White Port, ‘Vintage 1820.’ Both from Burmester’s private stock, at Oporto direct.” More Vintage White Port! This is also one of the first mentions in an advertisement of the actual source, Burmester, of the White Port offered for sale. Previous advertisements never mentioned the producer.
The Philadelphia Inquirer (PA), March 14, 1837, printed an ad offering “..., old white Port of choice quality.” The Philadelphia Inquirer (PA), February 15, 1841, then offered “Extra Sup. Old Red Port, ‘Vintage 1815,’ wine wholesale; Extra Sup. Old White Port, ‘Vintage 1820.’ Both from Burmester’s private stock, at Oporto direct.” More Vintage White Port! This is also one of the first mentions in an advertisement of the actual source, Burmester, of the White Port offered for sale. Previous advertisements never mentioned the producer.
The Boston Evening Transcript (MA), October 24, 1850, mentioned, “London Dock Port and White Port, very superior.” And the Daily Republic (D.C.), November 18, 1850, in an ad for a wine shop in Philadelphia, offered “rare delicate WHITE PORT.”
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During the second half of the 19th century, more British newspapers provided a bit of additional description of the White Ports offered for sale. However, mentions of White Port decreased over the course of the last 20 or so years of the 19th century.
The Daily News (England), April 19, 1864, mentioned for sale a “white Port, bottled in 1840, a very choice specimen.” A 24 year old White Port!
The Newcastle Daily Chronicle (England), September 28, 1867, described White Port in general, stating, “This wonderful wine may be found genuine and rich, fruity, and of excellent body, soft, delicate, and nutritious, of light and stimulating character, with fine aroma and choice bouquet, much crust, and a great deal of wing, and above all of a dry and silky finish.”
More Vintage Ports! The Western Morning News (England), December 19, 1867, printed a wine ad offering 8 bottles of White Port, vintage 1815, the Waterloo Vintage. The Daily News (England), August 18, 1869, had an ad for, “very fine white port, vintage 1851.”
The decrease in mentions of White Port was addressed in the Daily Post (England), October 22, 1869, which mentioned, “White Port. This rare Wine, once so much prized, has of late years dropped entirely out of sight and use, why it is difficult to say.” The reasons seem elusive, but its popularity would return in the early 20th century.
And in the second half of the 19th century, a number of U.S. newspapers provided additional descriptions of the White Ports offered for sale.
The Alexandria Gazette (VA), May 20, 1853, printed an article where the writer travelled to Portugal. He sampled some wine, and wrote, “White Port, a delicious and very rare wine, somewhat resembling in flavor the dry Bual of Madeira.”
The Portland Press Herald (ME), August 16, 1856, then ran an ad offering, “choice White Port, very rich and sweet.” The Daily Exchange (MD), May 3, 1858, also had a wine ad, noting, “Port Wines—Sandeman’s competition red and white Port, in wood and in glass.” So, Sandeman is another of the few producers of White Port mentioned during this time period. And the New York Daily Herald (NY), June 21, 1873, offered “Old White Port, very rare.”
In an examination of an extensive wine cellar, a writer for The Philadelphia Times (PA), January 18, 1880, encountered a White Port. The article noted, “The White Port, of which there was a small quantity, had the appearance of a milky-like fluid of vinous odor and slight acidity. Such port was, I believe, and still is, in favor as an extreme curiosity of unusual value.” It also noted, “Others have supposed that its color or rather its want of color, was owing to the grape from which it was made.”
White Port in Ireland? The Baltimore Sun (MD), March 4, 1885, noted: “...the white port at one time so popular in Ireland.” The Irish newspapers I researched didn't make it seem that White Port was especially popular in Ireland, and I didn't find a huge amount of wine ads offering White Port. This is an area that could use additional research.
The alcohol content of White Port? The Dayton Herald (OH), September 17, 1887, published a table noting the average alcohol contents of various liquors. For example Red Port was 23% while White Port was only 15%. So, there was a significant difference in the amount of alcohol in these two types of Port.
The Chicago Tribune (IL), June 13, 1890, printed an ad for Port Wine, including, “Delicioso. White Port, fruity, delicately rich, a Ladies’ Wine par excellence.” This is the first mention of White Port being a "Ladies' Wine," and it might refer only to this specific brand.
Russia and White Port. The Kansas City Times (KS), March 22, 1898, printed an article where the writer visited a large commercial wine and spirits cellar in Kansa City. He wrote, “Here is some white port wine and it is the first time it was ever brought to Kansas City. We imported it direct from Portugal and there are very few places in this country where it is used at all. It finds its principal consumption in Russia, where the wealthy classes are very fond of it.” It seems White Port was popular for a time in Russia, and that would be supported by other sources.
The Daily News (England), April 19, 1864, mentioned for sale a “white Port, bottled in 1840, a very choice specimen.” A 24 year old White Port!
The Newcastle Daily Chronicle (England), September 28, 1867, described White Port in general, stating, “This wonderful wine may be found genuine and rich, fruity, and of excellent body, soft, delicate, and nutritious, of light and stimulating character, with fine aroma and choice bouquet, much crust, and a great deal of wing, and above all of a dry and silky finish.”
More Vintage Ports! The Western Morning News (England), December 19, 1867, printed a wine ad offering 8 bottles of White Port, vintage 1815, the Waterloo Vintage. The Daily News (England), August 18, 1869, had an ad for, “very fine white port, vintage 1851.”
The decrease in mentions of White Port was addressed in the Daily Post (England), October 22, 1869, which mentioned, “White Port. This rare Wine, once so much prized, has of late years dropped entirely out of sight and use, why it is difficult to say.” The reasons seem elusive, but its popularity would return in the early 20th century.
And in the second half of the 19th century, a number of U.S. newspapers provided additional descriptions of the White Ports offered for sale.
The Alexandria Gazette (VA), May 20, 1853, printed an article where the writer travelled to Portugal. He sampled some wine, and wrote, “White Port, a delicious and very rare wine, somewhat resembling in flavor the dry Bual of Madeira.”
The Portland Press Herald (ME), August 16, 1856, then ran an ad offering, “choice White Port, very rich and sweet.” The Daily Exchange (MD), May 3, 1858, also had a wine ad, noting, “Port Wines—Sandeman’s competition red and white Port, in wood and in glass.” So, Sandeman is another of the few producers of White Port mentioned during this time period. And the New York Daily Herald (NY), June 21, 1873, offered “Old White Port, very rare.”
In an examination of an extensive wine cellar, a writer for The Philadelphia Times (PA), January 18, 1880, encountered a White Port. The article noted, “The White Port, of which there was a small quantity, had the appearance of a milky-like fluid of vinous odor and slight acidity. Such port was, I believe, and still is, in favor as an extreme curiosity of unusual value.” It also noted, “Others have supposed that its color or rather its want of color, was owing to the grape from which it was made.”
White Port in Ireland? The Baltimore Sun (MD), March 4, 1885, noted: “...the white port at one time so popular in Ireland.” The Irish newspapers I researched didn't make it seem that White Port was especially popular in Ireland, and I didn't find a huge amount of wine ads offering White Port. This is an area that could use additional research.
The alcohol content of White Port? The Dayton Herald (OH), September 17, 1887, published a table noting the average alcohol contents of various liquors. For example Red Port was 23% while White Port was only 15%. So, there was a significant difference in the amount of alcohol in these two types of Port.
The Chicago Tribune (IL), June 13, 1890, printed an ad for Port Wine, including, “Delicioso. White Port, fruity, delicately rich, a Ladies’ Wine par excellence.” This is the first mention of White Port being a "Ladies' Wine," and it might refer only to this specific brand.
Russia and White Port. The Kansas City Times (KS), March 22, 1898, printed an article where the writer visited a large commercial wine and spirits cellar in Kansa City. He wrote, “Here is some white port wine and it is the first time it was ever brought to Kansas City. We imported it direct from Portugal and there are very few places in this country where it is used at all. It finds its principal consumption in Russia, where the wealthy classes are very fond of it.” It seems White Port was popular for a time in Russia, and that would be supported by other sources.
One such source, Port and the Douro (4th edition, 2018) by Richard Mayson, noted, “In 1907, saw the loss of the lucrative Russian market which had favoured sweet white Ports. In an effort to boost sales of their own wines, the Russian authorities raised the duty on Port to the equivalent of £60 a pipe.”
Fake Port! The Muncie Morning News (IN), December 18, 1898, presented an ad for The California Wine Company which sold “California White Port,” vintage 1886. White Port must have been so popular in the U.S. that California wineries decided to emulate it, creating their own versions. At this time, California was creating their own version of many famed wines, such as Champagne, Sherry, Tokay, and Madeira,
Fake Port! The Muncie Morning News (IN), December 18, 1898, presented an ad for The California Wine Company which sold “California White Port,” vintage 1886. White Port must have been so popular in the U.S. that California wineries decided to emulate it, creating their own versions. At this time, California was creating their own version of many famed wines, such as Champagne, Sherry, Tokay, and Madeira,
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Another curious version of White Port. The Daily Mirror (England), November 16, 1925, presented an advertisement for Dr. Rutland’s White Invalid Very Old Port. The ad stated, “The reason why the majority of doctors now prescribe White Port instead of Red Port for invalids is because of its infinite superiority as a nutrient and restorative. Being free from tannin and acidity it is readily digested. Dr. Rutland’s White Invalid is a port of the highest possible degree of purity and has all the body and flavor of the finest red port without the latter’s heaviness and blood-heating properties. Hence it is the wine par excellence for gouty and rheumatic subjects. Made solely from the finest white grapes grown in the Douro Vineyards of Portugal and matured in cask for many years before bottling, guaranteed full strength.” In addition, the ad mentioned, “the Port that carries the certificate of the British Analytical Control.”
The Muncie Daily Herald (IN), December 7, 1900, printed an ad for a drug store that sold “Pure White Port Wine” for 50 cents a quart. This Port may have been sold for health purposes, considering the fact this was a drug store.
During the first half of the 20th century, some British newspapers offered additional interesting information about White Port.
The Tamworth Herald (England), February 3, 1900, described the Menu for the Prince of Wales’s Derby Day dinner. The dessert was to be accompanied by a “royal tawny port, fifty years old, royal white port, also fifty years old.” A 50 year old White Port!
The Manchester Courier (England), November 27, 1908, noted that white port was “a wine which is not in fashion in these degenerate days,..” Although there were more mentions of White Port in British newspapers at this time, it still appears that it wasn't as popular as before.
This elixir would be offered for nearly the next fifteen years, with its last mentions in 1939. As we already saw, back in the 1690s, White Port was an ingredient in a number of medicinal elixirs, so it's not surprising that it might show up again as a health product. However, Dr. Rutland's White Port seems to be only a Port, without the addition of any other ingredients. It's unclear how it might have differed from other White Ports.
The Stockport County Borough Express (England), November 26, 1925, had an ad for Beverly’s Wine & Spirits Merchant, which offered their own white and red ports. Their No.8 White Port, was noted as, “It is a fine, sound wine of a light nature that is refreshing and beneficial to drink. It has the delicious sweet flavor of Portugal finest, sun-ripened white grapes, the juice of which is well matured in the wood.” They were said to sell direct from the vineyards of the Douro.
White Port was popular again! The Daily Mail (England), December 2, 1927, mentioned “Clubland White Port” and noted, “This is the very finest specimen of White Port shipped to England to day, and is in immense demand all over Europe.”
As for the U.S. in the first half of the 20th century, although there were plenty of advertisements for White Port from the Douro, it seemed that California White Port Wine garnered much more attention.
The Spokane Chronicle (WA), February 6, 1900, had an for White Port Wine, selling for $1.25 per quart but which was also available for 12.5 cents a glass.
The Star Press (IN), June 23, 1900, printed, “The California Wine Company are the sole proprietors of the famous California White Port Wine. None genuine unless bearing our signature. Beware of imitations.” Obviously other producers were starting to make California White Port, but the California Wine Company was trying to claim precedence, ignoring the fact that they had copied Portuguese White Port.
The Omaha Evening Bee (NE), June 17, 1902, presented a wine ad for a White Port Wine, that was “a genuine California White Port—not a cheap wine manufactured in some eastern rectifying house, but a fine beverage made from selected grapes.” The brand of this wine is not made clear, and it's unsure whether this referred to the California Wine Company or not.
California was not the only U.S. state to produce their own version of White Port. The Kansas City Star (KS), January 19, 1905, advertised a "New York State White Port," a quart available for 75 cents. New York White Port would be produced throughout the 20th century.
The Hartford Courant (CT), May 14, 1907, also presented an for California White Port Wine, with the bold claim, "Better than an imported one."
The Los Angeles Evening Post-Record (CA), October 18, 1907, presented an ad for Star Wine & Grocery, which sold various California wines, including White Port. Their White Port was described as “One of the finest wines on the market today. Unexcelled as a tonic or fall stimulant. Guaranteed absolutely pure; per gallon $2.00.”
The Lead Daily Call (SD), November 26, 1912, printed a sale ad, offering "Five year old White Port" which was made by "the Italian-Swiss Colony people of California, the largest wine and Brandy distillery in the world,.."
The Boston Evening Transcript (MA), February 19, 1912, had a large sales ad, which offered bottles of Vintage 1885 White Port (from Portugal) for $1.30 a bottle.
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So, we can see that the history of White Port essentially parallels the history of Red Port. Vintage White Ports and aged White Ports were available during the 18th and 19th centuries, and were considered rare and compelling. Apparently, White Port fell out of favor during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and in the U.S., that might have occurred due to the rise of American-made White Ports, such as those of California and New York.
Today, White Port is probably much less popular than it once was, but there seems to be a growing interest in aged White Ports. There are plenty of excellent White Ports being produced, and the new categories, like 50 Year Old White Ports and Very Old White Ports, are helping to bring attention to White Port. I'm enamored with aged White Ports, which present such a different and intriguing flavor profile than Red Ports. Wine lovers should embrace White Port, as as apertif, an after-dinner drink, or even paired with food.
What's your favorite White Port?
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