Tuesday, March 19, 2024

A Tavola: A Tour of Italian Noble Grapes Wine Dinner

A Tavola, one of my favorite restaurants, is expanding, spreading to the space next to it. This will allow even more people to dine there, to experience their excellent Italian cuisine. Last week, I dined there once again, attending their latest wine dinner, A Tour of Italian Noble GrapesCiro Pirone, of Horizon Beverage, led the wine tasting aspect while Chef Joe Carli spoke about the food. Ciro is a charming and knowledgeable wine expert, and he presented several delicious and intriguing wines. And Chef Carli presented another inventive and compelling menu.    

The first wine of the evening was the 2021 Villa Matilde Fiano di Avellino, made in the Campania region. This wine is made from 100% Fiano, and the vineyards have limestone soils with a top layer of volcanic soil. It's aged for about four months in stainless steel, and will age well. It possesses an alluring aroma of citrus and floral notes and on the palate, it's complex, dry, and crisp. You may get notes of apple and lemon, floral notes and hazelnut, as well as a backbone of minerality. A lengthy, pleasing finish completes this well balanced and delicious wine. I enjoyed this wine so much that I bought a couple bottles to take home.

With the Fiano, we enjoyed Scallop Crudo, with an almond brodo, chili & crispy leeks. The plentiful thin slices of tender and sweet scallop were complemented by the subtle and tasty almond brodo. There was a mild heat, and the crispy leeks added a nice textural element. This was an excellent wine pairing, and the Fiano would do well with many seafood dishes. 

The 2019 Fanetti Rosso di Montepulciano, from Tuscany, is made primarily from Sangiovese, and the owner is a staunch traditionalist. For this wine, there is a long maceration on the skins and it is aged for two years in the barrel and one in the bottle. It's a more dry and rustic wine, with cherry flavors mixed with notes of mushroom and herbs. Good acidity, moderate tannins, a long finish, and plenty of complexity. It's a wine that's best paired with food. 

The second course was a Prosciutto & Brie Panini, with truffle honey and black pepper. The fresh, crispy bread contained plenty of salty and tender prosciutto, creamy, triple-creme Brie, and the earthy notes of truffle, with a tinge of sweetness. A great mix of tastes and textures, and a pure delight on the palate. Everyone at my table loved this sandwich, and if it were on their regular menu, I'd definitely order it. 

The 2019 Palladino Langhe Nebbiolo D'Alba was my favorite wine of the night. An alluring aroma, a palate of complexity, and pure deliciousness. Such an intriguing melange of black cherry, raspberries and ripe plum, with hints of violets and mild spice. Restrained tannins, well-balanced, elegant and compelling. This is a wine to slowly savor over the course of an evening, enjoying how it evolves over time. Highly recommended, and I bought some to take home. 

With the Nebbiolo, we enjoyed a dish of Bigoli with Braised Duck Leg. The shredded duck meat, tender and flavorful, went well with the thick pasta, shaved celery and parsley. As a lover of duck meat, this was quite a pleasure to me, and Chef Carli's pasta is always impressive.  

The 2019 Elena Fucci Aglianico del Vulture ‘Sceg is made from 100% Aglianico, from 90 year old vines in volcanic soils. Sceg is a local word for pomegranate, a symbol of fertility and good luck. This is a complex and interesting wine, with rich black fruit flavors, smooth tannins, dark spice notes, hints of leather and tar, and minerality notes, especially on the lingering finish. Well balanced, impressive, and delicious. Definitely would pair well with beef or another hearty dish.

Our next course was a Cotechino Ragu with yellow lentils, with notes of cinnamon, mace and allspice. This was like a hearty stew, with plenty of tender pork, a savory and tasty ragu, and hearty lentils. A great choice for a winter evening, soothing comfort food.

The final wine was the 2021 Donnafugata Ben Rye, from the island of Pantelleria, located to the south of Sicily. It's made from the Zibibbo grape, also known as Moscato di Alessandria, and is produced in the passito fashion, where the grapes are first dried under the sun. It's a golden color, with a pleasing blend of flavors, including apricot, peach, dried citrus, honey, and herbal. The acidity well balances the sweetness, and the finish is long and satisfying. An impressive dessert wine. 

For dessert, there was a Lemony Ricotta Tart with a toasted italian meringue. The meringue was light and airy, with a nice toastiness. The rich lemon curd was smooth and creamy, with a thick, crunchy tart enclosing it. It went well with the dessert wine. 

Chef Carli's next wine dinner is scheduled for May 1, with Sicilian wines. His wine dinners are always fun and delicious, and well worth attending. You also have the opportunity to purchase the wines, to take home, from the dinner. And if you can't attend their next wine dinner, just dine there another night, and enjoy their impressive Italian cuisine. 

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